troubleshooting Hot Spring tub blinking LED

[@rufftuffnut9473]

You are so awesome! Was having an issue with blinking red light after drain/clean… you were the ONLY one who brought up cold climate and a suggestion!! After an hour of troubleshooting and research, 15 minutes with a hair dryer in the compartment and BOOM, She’s back up and heating! Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!

[@craigsmith5025]

You're welcome. Another old trick that is still relevant with PDR heaters in newer tubs, is after drain/refill, power up only the breaker that powers up the spa. Get the circ pump burped and flowing, THEN power up the heater breaker.

[@douglasschreiber3456]

So, My Hot Springs Envoy just started green flashing and no heat. I haven't checked a thing yet. BUT.....I figured I would start by drinking some coffee and searching the internet. Came up with your video and would like to thank you in advance for your great post. Especially your pointing at specific parts as you go along. I haven't a clue, but now I have some things to start with. Very helpful. You almost sound like you know what you're talking about! LOL. Thanks!

[@three9931]

Pulling the LED connections on the mohterboard and powering up again worked for me. I then reconnected the LED connectors while it was running and so far so good. Thanks.

[@three9931]

I have a 2008 Hot Springs Grandee, and the interior components match what’s shown in this video. I've already replaced the heater, so it has new sensors, and I also replaced the relay board due to a blinking LED issue. The water flow seems good-there’s a solid stream coming into the filter well, with good flow and bubbles coming from the bottom input. I replaced the circulation pump two years ago as well. After letting the spa cool down for a few days while replacing these parts, I turned everything back on and set the temperature to 100°F. At first, everything seemed fine: the relay board had a solid red light, the "call for heat" light was solid red, and the high-limit sensor had a solid green light. The spa was heating as expected. However, the next day, I noticed the relay board’s red light was blinking, and the temperature had risen to 105°F, even though the spa was set to 100°F (I verified this with a second thermometer). Neither the power nor the ready lights on the exterior panel have blinked or flashed-they’ve been functioning normally. I’d really appreciate any advice on next steps. Is it likely that I need to replace the motherboard and control panel at this point? Thanks in advance!

[@craigsmith5025]

@@three9931 blinking D9 relay means relay is stuck closed

[@three9931]

Thanks for the info. Sometimes it is solid, sometimes it is flashing and sometimes it is off. This is s brand new board. Stumped. Could the main board be causing this?

[@billh.6230]

Hello Craig. My 2005 Vanguard was operating fine before emptying it and refilling today to have new water for the winter. Upon powering back up, the red power light only started flashing. Going through several cycles of resetting the GFCI breakers, letting sit for around a minute and then toggling the breakers back on had the same end result of the red power light coming on for about five seconds and then transitioning to a flashing red light. The circulation pump would not turn on until after the light went from solid red for roughly five seconds after power being turned on to flashing red. This also occurs if I only turn on the breaker for the control board and not the heater. I tried the items you recommended in the video and comments of removing the connection to the auxiliary panel and the LED module with change is going from a solid red for five seconds to a flashing red. I then let the circulation pump run for several minutes with the heater breaker off, then checked the resistance of the control and hi-limit thermistors. The control measured 16.93 kOhms and the hi-limit measured 16.33 kOhms. You had indicated in one of your comments that the two should not differ more than 0.2 kOhms. Is this difference of 0.6 kOhms indicating the two thermistors should be replaced and potentially the heater? I purchased the hot tub used three years ago in pretty good condition but needed a new heater relay board to get it back to running. The previous owner must have had the heater replaced at some time as it is not a Watkins heater, but is a ThermProducts 26-C3160-1S heater.

[@weebinniec]

Hi there. Did you ever get to the bottom of the problem with your tub? Sounds very similar to the problems I’m having. Only difference is I’ve put in a new heater in my tub the other day and I still have a dashing red light. Plenty circulation and a control unplugged light

[@Andrea-so1gl]

Hi Craig, Thanks so much for your very helpful videos. We have heating problems with our 2000 Tiger River Spa (Siberian model). About five weeks ago the jets turned on automatically, which had never happened before in 20 years. We tried to turn off the jets but the control panel was unresponsive. We turned off the hot tub and drained the water since we were getting ready for a longer trip. Five weeks later, we refilled the hot tub and turned on the heater. Everything worked fine and the water temperature reached 104 degrees Fahrenheit, consistent with the target temperature that we had set. Two days later, however, the jets turned on by themselves again and the control panel would not take any commands. We turned off the hot tub overnight and after turning on the hot tub again, the red ("power") light went on immediately and stayed on (no flashing). The green ("ready") light started flashing after about 10 seconds. The jets were working fine, and we could turn them on and off by means of the control panel. We recently cleaned the filters but took them out to make sure they didn't cause a low water flow. There is no indication that the heater worked. (The water cooled down over the course of several days.) We opened the IQ 2000 box. The green Lim light was on but the two red lights ("heater" and "control unplugged") were off. The red heater light in the box comes briefly on when we turn the power on but then turns off. We checked the thermistors: The resistances were 6.87 and 6.72 kOhms with 36 degrees Celsius water temperature, which was consistent with the specifications chart. We decided to replace both thermistors in case there was a problem anyways. Next we replaced the two heater relays but still no heat. The circulation seems low. Is there a way to check the actual flow or the circulation pump? We checked the resistance of the heater and it was about 10 Ohms. Any ideas? Thanks so much for your help!

[@craigsmith5025]

The control panel is going bad. They snowball fast when they fail. The Control thermistor is interfacing with the control panel on those old tubs, not in the main control board. So glitching pump operation and glitching call for heat is all in the control panel. Here's the kicker... That control panel is not available anymore. There were 1 pump and 2 pump versions for IQ-2000 and IQ-2020. So there's 4 panels in just a few years of tubs not available. However, my workplace has new old stock. I'll check to see if we have a 2-pump for IQ-2000. We just might, as I needed a 2 pump for 2020, and I recall the 2000 one I had was close but not compatible. I'll let you know.

[@Andrea-so1gl]

@@craigsmith5025 Thanks for the quick reply. This is much appreciated! Please let us know if you still have the old control panel available.

[@craigsmith5025]

I forgot to mention... the flashing green is a control thermistor (main temp sensor) error. But since you tested and replaced, there's nothing wrong with the temp sensor. (unless the temp sensor is getting too hot with a dead circ pump and the temp sensor is getting overheated before the hi-limit sensor) So if you have good circ pump flow, new sensors... then yes, the control panel which reads and translates the temp sensor is bad along with the erratic pump behavior from that panel. I'll check today if we have it.

[@Andrea-so1gl]

@@craigsmith5025 As I mentioned the flow from the circulation pump seems to be low. Is there a way to test the pump? We already knocked on the wet side of the pump with a screwdriver just in case the impeller got stuck. Thanks for checking if you still have the control panel.

[@craigsmith5025]

I test circ flow through the heater by unscrewing the grate where the hot water comes out. Then a PVC pipe about 30" long with 1 1/2" threads at the bottom and a 90 degree elbow at the top. Thread it in where hot water comes out, you should be getting 3+ gallons per minute.

[@vedinsac]

Thank you so much for these vids. Perfect

[@partypictureboothwisconsin7935]

Hi Craig. Thank you for the vid. My hot spring will power up for a couple of minutes and then the breaker goes and it gets shutoff. The water is warm coming out of the ozonator. Sometimes it is a red blinking power light and sometimes it’s good for a little bit and the breaker goes. I have hard water and do see scale on the heater elements. I did just replace the black cap about 6months ago cause the hard water scale cracked it. I assume my heater needs replaced. But have seen some gcfi go out. Would love your opinion before I plug a bunch of money into it. Thank you

[@craigsmith5025]

Is your breaker tripping, or does it go into a red flashing light? Because those are 2 totally seperate things.

[@partypictureboothwisconsin7935]

@@craigsmith5025 both. So if I put breaker back on, the tub will run for a couple of minutes, then trip off. Then I’ll put it back on and the red power light will blink for a little bit before tripping again. Guess it just depends how long I wait.

[@craigsmith5025]

If you hear your heater hissing when it is heating ( before the shutdown occurs) your heater is so scaled up it is overheating. You could also possibly have a flow restriction. Either circ pump, scaled heater itself, clogged up blockage at the ozone injector tee, or under the screen in the floor where the hot water comes out. It has been known that a heater overheating and cooking itself can trip a breaker.

[@partypictureboothwisconsin7935]

@@craigsmith5025 I took a better look at the watkins heater. The barrel with the heating element has a discoloration/burn mark. I’m assuming that’s from the heating element. I’m sure it’s toast and all scaled up. I tried taking both end caps off to take a look. The one with power is very snug. I thought maybe you could replace the heating element? Didn’t find anything with people doing that online. I’ve had many issue at my residence with hard water. Including swapping our heating elements on my home water heater. I purchased another heater to replace in the hot tub. How do I get that water at a good level so it doesn’t scale up and last a long life? I had the current one for around 5 years. Thank you for the help.

[@craigsmith5025]

@@partypictureboothwisconsin7935 watch my videos on water chemistry. Getting hard water's PH down is easy when you follow my regiment.

[@billcox1962]

Craig, I need a video on flashing green ready light. I am handy with a multimeter. 2004 Sovereign II. Ozone bubbles are visible, waterfall is flowing. All internal parts and circuits are original.

[@craigsmith5025]

With heater off for at least 5 minutes, kill power and pull both sensors off the board and ohm them. They should both be within .20 ohms of each other. For example 5.10/5.27 is ok. Usually the flashing green means reg therm (control thermistor) is bad. However, the control thermistor is calculated by the control head. (control panel) So, if the sensor is good, the control panel may be reading it wrong.

[@craigsmith5025]

Look for mouse chewed wires on the sensor, and the flat ribbon cable up by the control panel. There is a 2X2 up there that they can sit on, chewing where the ribbon cable goes into the control head.(panel)

[@jamesmorrison5076]

Dang people!!!! Give the guy a break! EVERY single comment is asking him how to fix YOUR tub!!!! Do you really expect this guy to do that simply because he posted a KZbin video??? Geezzzz

[@craigsmith5025]

I don't mind. If I'm busy I can't respond, but if I'm sitting around and have time, I'll try to help. It's difficult sometimes because I'm not there to see certain factors myself. But some are obvious.

[@lh98]

@@craigsmith5025 kindly read my posted comment today and give input if you can. Much appreciated!

[@jeromesexton9257]

Hi Craig. Thank you for your videos they are very clear and informative. I was wondering if you can help me diagnose a problem with my CFCI tripping. I have been trying to fix a 2012 Hot Spring Prodigy from a house my mother bought. The CFCI 20 amp breaker trips about 15 to 30 secs after the jet pump is turn on, the 30 amp breaker is still on. I have both the Power and the Ready light flashing too which made me suspect the pressure switch is bad, but I am confused about the circuit breaker tripping. I have rinsed the filters with water and open the Weir door all the way. The circulation pump had water coming out when I did a air lock test, it also has water coming spitting from the 1/4-inch hole in the filter well . The heater 6KW had corrosion on it and the lead to the relay board was corroded and broken ( I cleaned it and reattached it, he heater reads 10 ohm) The thermostat and high limit sensors both have the same ohm reading. Through elimination, nothing tripped the breaker until the jet pump was plug in and then on for about 30sec . I was wondering if it could be the Run Capacitor ( the motor had a bit of rust, i ordered a new shaft seals will install them when they arrive). Kind of out of ideas Any help would be greatly appreciated . Thank you, Jerome

[@craigsmith5025]

The motor could be spraying water from the shaft seal area into the motor when it runs. If not, does it sound labored when running? You could have a bad pump tripping the breaker. Or you could have a weak breaker, or poor connections. Let me think more on this.

[@capescreations]

Wow bought an old hotsprings prodigy 2011 and the green light was flash and couldn't get the heater to work but after watching thus video you mentioned that if the lid light was slightly wet it could cause thus and sure enough unplugged the light from the board as instructed and BINGGO it now heats up. Only problem now is the topside controller screen is blank any ideas 💡can just about manager my way around the settings without it. Don't think you can get these ones any more without changing the circuit board too . Cost more than the tubs worth. Keep up the vids. Cheers Chris 🇬🇧

[@craigsmith5025]

Yes, the Orca systems are unavailable mid 2009 through mid 2012, the only way to get a new control panel is get an Eagle panel which will only work with an Eagle IQ box, late 2012- current. It would need a thumb drive program upload, and configuration to that model.

[@hummieboy1]

Craig, thx for your good videos, i have a problem with my hotspring vanguard this moment. maybe you can guide me to solve it? when i put the power on it will work 2-3 days normally, then the power is going off/on with clicking noise constant. i removed the black panel and the sound is from the white relais were the power 220v comes in. no blinking leds, only the power is going of/on 1sec on 1 sec off etc etc . quickly and when i remove the power plug out of the wall en back in the power is constant for a few days. no problems with working of the spa itself. im happy with all the help, greatings from holland.

[@craigsmith5025]

One time long ago, I had a bad heater relay board, the smaller board on the left. The relays would click on and off. When I opened the black box, the cool air cooled down the board and it stopped. All connections were good and tight. Sometimes a push-on terminal is loose on a red, black, or white jumper wire. But that one bad board was a 1 in 20 years mystery.

[@hummieboy1]

@@craigsmith5025 i will test that theorie and open it, last night i was in the spa and the lights goes off and your hear only click click (fast) and the display is going on and off constant, until you plug it out and back in the 220v socket. i will open it up to see if theres a bad spot or else.... thx so far

[@craigsmith5025]

@hummieboy1 I don't know how they wire spas over there, but here that tub cannot be on a 230 plug in cord. It has to be hard wired off two GFCI breakers. Something seems like loose or poor connection. Quite possibly at the plug or source power.

[@hummieboy1]

@@craigsmith5025 thx again, im gonna check it after i drain it tomorow. hopefully i find a lose connection at the supply side.

[@hummieboy1]

@craig i did a check and i think i found a bad connection, a plug had burned plastic around it, so i made a new plug on the wire and now its solid again. in a few days i will know if the problem is solved. i will let you know

[@clcabins]

Hi Craig, I have the prodigy and it will not turn off. I have to unplug it to turn it off. Then the water gets cold. I can plug it back up and it works but still doesn’t go in the rest mode. Also the display has gone out and I can’t see what anything on it.

[@craigsmith5025]

Try unplugging the secondary aux panel at the back of the spa. It plugs into the control box with a telephone type connector. You also may have mouse chewed flat ribbon cable running from the control box up to the main control panel. There's a 2x2 board under the main control panel where mice like to sit and chew the ribbon cable.

[@holyforchrist777]

Craig can you help me I have 2003 Sovereign hot springs and it started clicking on and off the originator and the circulation pump would kick on and then the red light started flashing and completely unresponsive and after I watched your video I have exactly that problem the LED light lens actually started leaking when I bought this and was corrosive and not working right so I did what you said unplugged it and sure enough it started working fine I had no idea that a LED light had power over the circuit board to make it malfunction like that I sure miss the plain old desiccate light bulb that they used to put in these anyway it looks like I got to try to order that led light circuit board I think I found one on eBay but I'm not sure if they still have it it's been a few months and they are no longer made by Watkins Hot Springs I called them and they said they are discontinued crap LOL anyway love to touch bases with you it's nice to talk to another hot tub text that knows a lot about Hot Springs I really do love these tubs Thanks buddy Larry

[@craigsmith5025]

@holyforchrist777 see if the junk spas behind your local Hot Spring dealer can be raided for parts.

[@robertpaul236]

looking for info on.. safely clean scale out of the watkins no fault heater. i have low flow through heater is my best guess and my last resort without having to buy new heater.its a 1997 hot spring sovereign wired 220. new filters, new silent flow updated pump and new sensors. heating to approx 98 deg old sensors when high limit shuts down. now with new sensors turns off at approx 96 deg. filter post removed and put my hand over hole it will suck my hand pretty good so it has flow, just sets off red flashing light and then i need to rest it with breaker.

[@tomedge7171]

Hi Craig, Prodigy spa worked fine when I drained it last spring. When I filled and turned on just the 120v power, it went straight to blinking red power light. 240v breaker was never turned on. I thought maybe the circ pump had some ice in it, so I drained it, waited for a warm day, blew out all the lines and made sure the pump turned, and tried again. Same problem. It doesn't even try to do anything else. I tested the pump and it works with 120v applied. I was going to replace the board, then I heard you say that running a blow dryer in there to warm it up might help. Do you think that could be the problem in this case?

[@TrojanStarryNight]

Hi Craig, great video and very informative. I have a 2016 Hot Spring Grandee NXT, and continually have an error with low circulation followed up with system interlock and the blue light blinking on the front. I have bled the lines, replaced the circulation pump and still happens, I reset and it can last a day or two and again blinking blue light and the heater shuts off and the system locks me out. I have experimented having no filter on and installing the jumper on the PC board to prevent the heater circuit from tripping. Still happens. any idea what I am missing? Could the heater have build up? If so is there a way to clean it out?

[@craigsmith5025]

Blue flash is a hi limit error, heater overheating. If you have hard water and didn't get your PH on your weekly test strip out of the high end (8.0 - 8.6) and into the OK zone (7.2 - 7.8) then yes, your heater could be scaled up. You could also have flow blockages at the black mazzai ozone injector if you had ozone installed. Or your grate in the floor where the hot water comes out could be plugged up on the underside. The grate does unscrew.

[@craigsmith5025]

What does a test strip say for alkalinity and PH?

[@williams-thomasfuneralhome8785]

Hi Craig, and thanks for these videos. Specific situation, 2002 hot springs spa. Red light flashing, nothing else on the display. I can hear "something" humming, and if i turn off the breaker and leave it off for a bit and turn it back on, the tub runs just like normal, including the jets; then it shuts off again. What would you check first? Thanks in advance!

[@craigsmith5025]

It sounds like it may be a circulation pump problem. The system depends on the wee circ pump moving 3+ gallons per minute through the heater, to strip the heat away from the heater, into the spa. Restrictive flow or no flow will cause a heater to overheat and the hi-limit sensor is picking up on this... flashing red light. The hum may be your dead or dying circ pump.

[@chrisgill2382]

Hello Craig! Thanks for the videos. I recently relocated my spa and it was working prior to the move. We had the electrician wire the tub in the new location and the pumps will run but it will not heat. Both red and green lights blink. I have checked for tripped breakers and the electrician checked for wiring issues and found a bad ground and repaired that but still no change. New filters were installed prior to filling back up with water. Any suggestions?

[@craigsmith5025]

Flow issue from the tiny silent circulation pump. Pump died, or it is air locked. If you have flow, your pressure switch is bad in your heater, or perhaps got unplugged at the circuit board. Make sure it is plugged in the correct spot and not offset, if the electrician accidentally pulled it off while doing his work.

[@craigsmith5025]

Check my other video for BOTH lights flashing.

[@tanyalaterveer2716]

Hi there do you have a video on how to replace the high level sensor? My spa keeps shutting down and red flashing light. Has good flow

[@user-ok1qw6iu6l]

Thank you, very informative.

[@kkatlvolvo]

HI Craig-great videos and content. I've got a service tech scheduled for about 10 days out and also trying to figure out where a 16" approx wire goes that fell off when I had the front cover off. I have a Tier River Bengal-maybe 2004 model year and it is flashing the power light now after this wire got pulled out. The circ pump has no wire from the ground post and it looks like it would go there and up into the panel just not seeing anything where a small 2 wire pin would go into. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Pump is not kicking on and the power light is flashing 10 seconds are booting up.

[@craigsmith5025]

A 2 wire cord with small plug could be from the ozone unit, there was an ozone interface wire that actually caused problems so they were unplugged from the box. Otherwise it may be a flow switch sensor wire that was pulled and bypassed with a jumper on the board. (not a good idea) Your service tech should square away any issues and correct jerry-rigs.

[@sohrabshahabi1421]

Hi, Craig, thank you for the video very informatics, I have a 2008 hot spring limelight Flair, it was running well now the power light flashing and the hot tub is not doing anything, no heat, no pumps, user manual says two things, air and overheat, non happened to and I primed the circ pump well and I see the good flow and Ozone bubbles in the water, can you help me to fix it? thanks in advance

[@craigsmith5025]

Kill both breakers, turn on only the breaker that powers up the spa control system. See if it goes into that error with the heater breaker off. If so, there is no way it is overheating. Likely a sensor issue.

[@feliciab3281]

Hey this video was very helpful. We have a blinking green light! How do we fix that?

[@craigsmith5025]

A blinking green light is usually a temp sensor. (control thermistor or REG THERM) Sometimes if the circulation pump is dead, the heater overheats upon bootup, and the control thermistor overheats before the hi limit sensor. Rarely, the control panel that reads the control thermistor is the culprit, (1997-2012) but eliminate all other possibilities first.

[@irocroadracer4356]

Craig, please help! I have an early 2000 hot springs jetsetter. Power light keeps blinking regardless of what I do. If I unplug and replug in, I can get the jets to work fine. Once the jets are turned off, after awhile the red light will blink and heater off. I put in all new filters, appears to be good water flow when jets are running. I called out a spa tech, he said maybe the plug gfi was bad so I replaced it, no changes. Called out a 2nd spa tech and he said it was the mother board, so I installed a new Q2020 board and 2 new temp sensors. Still the same. called a 3rd spa tech out and he said heater was "probably bad". So I replaced the heater which came with new temp sensors. Still the same. Despite having good circulation pump flow, I replaced the circ pump, still the same. Could I have 3 bad temp sensors in a row? One online suggestion was to have sensors "recalibrated"?

[@craigsmith5025]

If you had high PH in the past with hard water, it's possible that a chunk of eggshell like scale let loose off the old heater and jammed up in the black ozone injector mazzei tee. Also unscrew the grate at the bottom of the tub, that could be plugged up on the underside. Otherwise it could be a bad multi color LED that puts it in a glitch. You must kill power when plugging and unplugging things into the IC INTERFACE connection or you'll damage the board.

[@craigsmith5025]

You can't re calibrate Hot Spring sensors. Did any of those techs do a flow test where they unscrewed the floor grate and screwed in a 3' tall pipe to confirm flow rate?

[@juddsandage]

Hey Craig, I got a blinking power LED and a solid D17 on the control board, the recirc pump is working fine but no LEDs are on for LIM OK, HTR ON or CONTROL UNPLUGGED, the heater board did blow up a relay and I have replaced the board, and two caps shorted on the power supply on the main control board, taking out a varistor and a few diodes, so I replaced all the caps and the burnt varistor and diodes, hooked it all back up and it was working for about an hour then it started with the blinking power LED, it does seem to do something with relays I can hear every minute or two, but nothing else. I have checked and there doesn't seem to be any clogs in the system, the water feature is working quite well, and I did unplug the remote control, that didn't seem to affect anything, any suggestions? maybe a new heater? maybe a new control board?

[@juddsandage]

Sorry, forgot to add this is a 2004 Vanguard and has been working since about 2005 with no real issues. and between the heater board replacement and the PSU frying was about a week.

[@craigsmith5025]

A flashing red is an error with the hi limit sensor and/or circuitry. A bad multi color LED can cause interference. KILL POWER when doing anything with the IC interface, disconnect the 2 LED plugs. Reboot. If it still does it, reboot with only the spa breaker on, the heater breaker off. If it still does it with the heater breaker off, it is not an actual overheat error, it is an electronic or sensor glitch.

[@juddsandage]

@@craigsmith5025 well I unplugged the LED, an started it only with the 20A circuit, and I get the same behavior, does this point to an issue with the main control board?

[@craigsmith5025]

@@juddsandage If you are going into a flashing red hi-limit error with no power even going to the heater, nothing in the IC interface, aux panel disconnected, both sensors ohm out pretty even (within .20 ohms of each other), I would say 95% bad control board. 5% chance that you have a bad control head (control pushbutton panel) as last year I had that happen to me once on an older Tiger River with an IQ-2020.

[@juddsandage]

@@craigsmith5025 Ok, I replaced the control board, now its alternating flashing red power and green ready lights, D17 LED still only on, I have ohmed out the sensors, one is 8.9 kohm and the other is 8.8 khom, and the pressure switch goes from 3.3 ohm down to .3 ohm when recirc is on. not sure what's left to check on this. I also tried it without the aux panel and disconnected the spa light, with no change.

[@lh98]

Hot springs tub with blinking red light. When I turn the breakers on it tries to start I hear a relay click then it dies and the red light blinks. The small circulation pump doesn’t seem to be working maybe? When I tap on it with a rubber mallet is spins slightly then stops again and that small circ pump is pretty hot. Could debris be in it or it just be old and tired and can that cause the failure to start w/ blinking red light? I was hoping there’s a work around where you unplug the circ pump and change the jumper settings so the bigger jets circulate the water to confirm it’s a bad small circ pump. I’ve done that on my dads hot tub but I cannot find the schematic for jumpers 1-12 other than where they’re supposed to be for that model. Hoping there’s a work around to confirm the bad circ pump. Any input is appreciated!!

[@craigsmith5025]

@@lh98 circ pump is the beating heart of the system, and it sounds like the spin point inside yours is worn out.

[@lh98]

@@craigsmith5025 there is no work around to omit the circ pump? So if I replace the circ pump the hot tub will start up correctly? Thanks. Man for a little pump they are pricey I though mayb 90 bucks 200+ crazy

[@craigsmith5025]

@@lh98 you can omit the circ pump if you just want a jetted tub without heat.

[@lh98]

@@craigsmith5025 thanks, I guess other manufacturers used their heads and built in options Hot Springs didn’t think of. My Dimension One hot tub the e5 pump has gone bad twice and the parts shop had me switch the jumper pin modes so that the main jet comes on in low mode and circulates the water and allows full functional hot water tub without the e5. On this Hot Spring I ordered an e5 pump and installed it yesterday and all is working again. Pricey bastard that little e5 pump… over 200 bucks. Appreciate the input sir.

[@shanehudson9282]

Hi Craig. We used to have good ozone bubbles at first but now there are not many .could this be the Serc pump and this would affect the heater.thank you

[@craigsmith5025]

Low flow will decrease ozone bubbles, but also scale in the Mazzai injector tee and nitric acid residue in the ozone tubing and check valve can cause this. Even the air intake on the ozone unit can get plugged up. You can carefully pull the tubing off the ozone unit and pour white vinegar in the tube, let it get sucked into the system for a cleaning. But before all that, make sure primary filter is clean.

[@veraforbes4266]

Hi Craig, the blue light is flashing on our hot tub and not heating up. I think it’s the black connector. How do we change these?

[@craigsmith5025]

The blue (power) light flashing is a heater overheat hi-limit error. So you either have a dirty filter on the circ pump causing low flow, a scaled up heater from high PH/calcium hardness, or a bad hi-limit sensor. Other odd rare glitches are bad aux panel that can be determined by unplugging. Or a leaking light lens getting your main LED module wet. What black connector are you referencing?

[@veraforbes4266]

@@craigsmith5025 the inlet from the thermal heater. The control panel above was very wet and had a condensation build up. It is now dry but nothing is displaying on the screen. I have just unplugged the inlet control and lots of water poured out as the hot tub is currently full

[@veraforbes4266]

@@craigsmith5025 thank you so much for replying 🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾

[@veraforbes4266]

The silentflo is on, red and green light are on in the motherboard. Blue light is still flashing 😥, the ozone bubbles are bubbling away nicely. Still no display on the panel. Jets not working at all.

[@craigsmith5025]

@@veraforbes4266 OK, the red and green light on motherboard is on... is the green LIM OK and is the red HEATER ON? Because you could have a red CONTROL UNPLUGGED lit on the motherboard, and that indicates a bad control panel.

[@EmptyStreetLights]

Great video! I have an early 2000s Tiger River Siberian with IQ2020 panel that I inherited from previous owner of the house, and everything was working fine until I (stupidly) tried to plug the light into the wrong spot in haste. When I powered on the tub at the breaker, the light flashed real quick and then the LIM OK and HTR ON lights were both off, D17 light on, and flashing red power button. Now when I turn power on, it will kick on for a second then shut off. The circulator attempts to kick water and the piece down pipe from it toggles back and forth a couple times then stops. Any ideas what I did and how to fix it? Thanks I’m advance.

[@craigsmith5025]

An LED light or a light ballast for the florescent tube light? Where did you accidentally plug it in?

[@mtspencer]

Hi Craig - thanks for creating the great video! I've got a 2006 Vanguard, and the red flashing light intermittently comes on as in this video. Turn breakers off/on and it can take anywhere from 1 - 10 days to happen again. Filters are all clean and there seems to be good flow (has happened same day as filters were cleaned. If the high limit switch is going will it intermittently trip like this or just completely quit working? I think my current circ pump is approaching 10 years so maybe its about to go out and its flow is decreasing some?

[@craigsmith5025]

You can unscrew the grate in the floor of the tub, and screw in a 1 1/2" flow check tool that rises above the water and has a sideways elbow to check the flow rate. (you can easily make this PVC tool) you should be getting 1 gallon in 20 seconds or 3 gallons a minute minimum. Any less than that, you have a flow issue somewhere.

[@mtspencer]

@@craigsmith5025 Thanks for the response! I measured the flow and had over 3 gpm (37 seconds for 2 gallons) with the water feature all the way off, and just slightly under 3 gpm (42 seconds for 2 gallons) with the water feature all the way on. Looks like I'll have to try replacing the high limit sensor

[@craigsmith5025]

If you run the circulation pump for several minutes without the heater on, kill power. Then unplug both thermistor and test the ohms on them with a meter. If the hi-limit sensor is more than .20 k lower than the reg therm, replace it. For example reg therm 5.68 k ohms, hi limit therm 5.45 k ohms.

[@mtspencer]

@@craigsmith5025 Hmmm - I just tested tested them and hi limit is 5.879k, reg threm is at 5.974k...

[@craigsmith5025]

Ok, when you cleaned the filters, did you kill power to the spa? Lots of times, pulling filters kicks up something that gets sucked down the gray standpipe, and causes an obstruction. Lots of times I find something like a test strip in the circ pump impeller. Or commonly a plastic rivet head from the floating wier door track gets jammed up in the ozone injector AFTER it passed through the circ pump and heater. I'll have to do a video on that the next time I see it.

[@randerson9686]

I have an 03 tiger river with the latest updated main board and a 2 relay updated heater board. if i turn on my spa the jet pump cycles for a moment, the control panel lights up briefly, then everything turns off and only the circ pump runs. The D17 light is lit and the HEATER ON light is lit, LIM OK is off, no power to control panel, sometimes blinking red light. Thermistors both ohm at 8k at around 77*F suspect defective main board? Thanks for help

[@craigsmith5025]

When BOTH the main board is new, and the 2 relay heater relay board is new, you must follow the instructions on the 12V-18V jumper settings. The other logic jumpers must be identical from old motherboard to new.. Did the relay board get fitted onto the main board pins fully or just set against them? The downfall to Tiger River of that era IQ-2020 (PUG) is that the control panel is no longer made. So when the control panel goes bad, you can get flashing lights that make no sense to the 'error code' rules. The only way to troubleshoot that is obtain a PUG control panel for Hot Spring and plug it in. Set the logic jumpers for a comparable Hot Spring tub in voltage and number of jet pumps, and see if that solves it. The quick cure, install that Hot Spring control panel on the side of the cabinet, abandon the Tiger River panel on the shell.

[@craigsmith5025]

Make sure the solderless connections on the white, red, and black wires from relay board to main board are tight. NO SLOPPY-LOOSE CONNECTIONS. Did you remember to transfer that black wire from the old main board to the new board? It jumps 2 points on the main board's lower left area.

[@mdocdoc]

Craig, thanks so much for your great videos. I've watched several of them. Just bought a used hot tub, it's a Jetsetter from 2015. Fine before we got it home, but now having trouble with heating. Converted it over from 110 to 220 V, everything works fine with just the 110 - I can run pumps. When i turn on the 220 breaker, the circ and jet pumps run for a while but after about 20 seconds it goes into protection mode. Flashing blue light with solid green ready light. Circ pump seems OK, Guess it might be limit switches or heater/pressure switch. Previous owner had well water, potentially hard I guess? Can the temp limit switches be tested or replaced DIY? How about heater DIY? Also, do you know of a service manual (PDF) that has more details than the owners manual? TIA. Matt.

[@mdocdoc]

By the way, are you familiar with the service mode? Called the store they told me how to put it into this mode. Here I can actually "test" run heaters before it goes into protect mode after resetting breakers. The heater seemed to come on and it shows them drawing 24 amps on the 220 circuit. Matt.

[@craigsmith5025]

Converting from 110 to 220 requires power jumper modification in the input terminal block, as well as hitting the button on the main board to go into CONFIGURATIONS menu to change HEATER CONCURANT setting. But if it does that within 20 seconds, your heater may be overheating. Does it hiss and make noise as it heats up? If so it is likely calcium scaled.

[@craigsmith5025]

I re-read your post. wait, wait. When you turn on your 220 the circ runs? No. Everything should work and run with just the 110 breaker on. The heater element alone is on the 220 breaker. Double check all power inputs and jumpers within that input terminal block for the conversion.

[@mdocdoc]

Craig, Thanks for your awesome quick response. Yes we did the conversion from 110 to 220, this included changes in the jumper board, there is a power jumper in place, also in the configuration menu we changed it so that heaters and jets can run concurrently. I am hoping that the heater is not scaled up, but I guess maybe it is. What doesn't make sense to me is the spa ran fine before we got it, and soon as we moved into our house the heaters don't seem to work now (overheating?). Is it possible that the drain, moving and refill cycle pushed the heaters over the edge? I did listen for hissing or popping in the 20 seconds that the heaters run after cycling power. Doesn't seem to be any noise. How long will it take the cold heaters to get to temp limit after power up to trip over temp if there were no circ flow (which there is)? Could this be a temp sensor problem? Matt.

[@jerodcazes2550]

Got a hot spring that has power to the board and not one light is on. Thinking it may be the main control board.

[@craigsmith5025]

The main circuit board has no lights? Then yes, that board is dead. Either the board's built-in power supply has failed, or it got mis-wired with a hot line in where the neutral input is, and that killed the board. But if you do have LEDs lit on the main circuit board, it may be OK, but other factors are issues... faulty sensors, mouse chewed ribbon cable to the control panel, etc...

[@craigsmith5025]

Send me a pic of the wiring going into the IQ-2020 control box. c smith 1149 @ wi. rr. com (no spaces)

[@capescreations]

Thanks for your quick reply about the hotsprings top controller but I think that might be a bit out of my abilities unless you do a utube video 📹. If it finally give up on me do you know if you can do a retro refit and replace everything with an easier supplied brand like gecko. Many thanks again Chris 🇬🇧

[@craigsmith5025]

Actually your best bet would be to get an older !Q-2020 system from 2001-2009. (PUG) That has a control panel on the side like mine. Abandon the shell mount control, or remove it and place a plastic blank over the hole. Cut & router in the side for that other style panel. Your Hot Spring dealer junkyard out back may have these ready for hauling to the landfill.

[@craigsmith5025]

Your Hot Spring dealer should be able to install an Orca to Eagle system, about $1000 for the parts, and about $150-$200 for the travel & labor to swap & upload the program. A 2011 is still an awesome tub with lots of life left, as long as it wasn't destroyed by tablet floaters & chemistry.

[@gregnettles3677]

If you need professional help with hot springs tubs and parts call the pros at backyard plus ask for Craig or many. Control head change in this tub is very simple.less than 30 minute repair.

[@gregnettles3677]

You cant retro fit hot springs tubs with any other brand of controllers on the market.

[@royramey5659]

Hey Craig, we have 2000 hot spring hot tub and no flashing lights but heater kicks off after a few minutes. we have watched and done what your videos said and still happening. no water is coming out of small hole by filters and we are not seeing circulation when it is running. any tips would be much appreciated. Been working on it for days now

[@craigsmith5025]

Your circulation pump should be running 24/7. If your pump is getting 115VAC and not pumping water, it is either air locked, or dead.

[@royramey5659]

@@craigsmith5025 We can here it running but think impellers not turning , we'll open her up tomorrow and we've bled it a few times. Thanks Craig appreciate your fast response.

[@craigsmith5025]

The larger circ pump as identified in my other video, gets warm or hot, and you sense that the motor is running. But the magnetic driven impeller is hung up because the spin point is worn, the 2mm gap is gone, hemisphere and bowl has scrape Mark's where it was rubbing before it got hung up and stalled.

[@shanehudson9282]

We have 36 ohms through the heater but no power to the heater connections. There is a flashing l.e.d on top of relay board. Does this mean that the heater board is faulty

[@craigsmith5025]

Before we put the cart before the horse, was the 10-11 year old tub new to you and recently wired, or has it been wired & working for years? I have in the past troubleshot tubs over messenger for a week, just to find out they just got it and wired it wrong. Nothing wrong with the tub so troubleshooting the tub was all for nothing. A week wasted of back & forth over a mis-wired tub. And does it have 1-5 for power inputs, or 1-7?

[@craigsmith5025]

I never run ohms tests on heaters anymore. Because if the heater is getting voltage, I check amperage with an amp clamp. Getting voltage but not drawing amperage equals bad heater.

[@philcolchie1599]

Hi Craig. Several months ago my power light was flashing. I shut it down, drained it, but then didn't do anything with it until now. So I cleaned it all out, cleaned the filters, filled it back up and turned it on. I first flipped on both sub-breakers power & heater, then hit the power button on the heater. Power went on, but heard some gurgling and it back to blinking red. I flipped breakers off, then just turned on the one breaker and turned the jets on, seemed to be fine. I then flipped the heater breaker and it stayed on for maybe 10 seconds then blinking power light again. I have a Hot Springs Prodigy running 220. Does this sound like the high limit sensor to you? If so should I replace it as well as the thermistor?

[@craigsmith5025]

Sounds like no water flow through the heater, and the heater is hyper-heating the still water within. Only power up the spa breaker, and not the heater breaker. Then try to burp air out of the circulation pump and/or determine if the pump is bad and dead. The circulation pump is literally the beating heart of the system, pushing 3+ gallons per minute through the heater at all times. Remove the filter off the gray standpipe in this process, but the gray cap MUST be screwed on so no debris gets sucked into the small pump. If that circulation pump is dead and 10+ years old, likely a new one is needed.

[@craigsmith5025]

Check out my other video where BOTH lights are flashing, helpful flow info on that 'other video'.

[@philcolchie1599]

@@craigsmith5025 thanks Craig. So if I just run the jets without the breaker for the heater flipped and the jets are working and circulating, it might still be the circulation pump? That only pumps water when the heater is on?

[@philcolchie1599]

Oh and my Hot Springs Prodigy was purchased in 2002.

[@craigsmith5025]

@@philcolchie1599 No. The circulation pump runs 24/7. When the heater clicks on, that flow is stripping that heat away from the heater and into the tub. You probably noticed when sitting in the tub, how the water is hot coming out that floor grate. And you can tell when the heater clicks off when the floor grate water coming out is the same temp as the rest of the water. Without this 24/7 flow, the heater overheats because no water is flowing through the heater and into the tub. The sensors reach 120 degrees, and throw the tub into a flashing OVERHEAT HI-LIMIT ERROR which locks up tub functions.

[@julieandbernie5063]

Do you have troubleshooting tips for cb popping?

[@craigsmith5025]

Popping? You mean relays clicking or chattering? You got loose terminals doing electrical arcing?

[@julieandbernie5063]

@@craigsmith5025 Craig - Sorry - CB is tripping. If I turn heat up and let tub get hot without pushing clean or jets, it gets to temp ok. If I turn heat way down and turn on jets it runs fine. But…when heat is up (and even if it reaches temperature set), and I turn on jets, the CB trips. Any ideas?

[@craigsmith5025]

Check out my other 2 videos on flashing light errors. Sounds like wier door sticking, and filters sucking in air, or water level too low. Either way, circ pump stalling out from filters not being fully submerged. Putting it in a hi limit flashing error.

[@olympiashorts]

I had my tub pulled out of its hole in the deck to work on a leak and everything was working perfectly. After having it lowered in the hole, I hooked it back up to power and now only the "D17" LED flashes on the main PCB. I see no physical damage and they weren't particularly rough with the tub anyway. I've double checked all the wire connections. There is 240V getting to the Heater Relay Board but nothing is working. Any thoughts about this "D17" LED?

[@craigsmith5025]

Defective relay board. I seen it happen before. Other issues might be the upper right wasn't pressed onto the main board prongs fully. Or the aluminum bracket wasn't bent or notched to avoid cutting through the tape on the legs of that chip on the relay circuit board.

[@olympiashorts]

@@craigsmith5025 Thanks very much for your rapid reply. You're awesome. Not a lot of great information out there so it's nice to have someone take their time to help folks out. I'll order a new heater relay board.

[@olympiashorts]

@@craigsmith5025 Craig, I put in a new heater relay board and now something new is happening. When I power up the spa (with the breaker), it will heat for about 2 minutes and then I hear a relay trip and the "power" light on the control panel begins to flash and the tub stops heating but the circulation pump continues to work just fine. If I flip the breaker off for 30 seconds or so and then back on, the same thing repeats itself. Here's a summary of everything I've done so far (all in the last 2 months): Replaced motherboard and heater relay board ...Tub worked for a week or so. Tub lowered into hole in deck back to where it belongs ...Tub not working as in my original post Replaced heater relay board (my second one in 2 months) ...Heats for a minute as described. Tested heater resistance and seemed fine Ordered and installed new temperature sensors into the heater No change Ordered new heater as my other one is 14 years old and thought that maybe there was more than resistance that could be at play here. Put in new heater with the new temperature sensors (and jumper across pressure switch connector as the new NoFault heaters apparently have a built in pressure switch). Removed filters Filled tub through standpipe. All air purged and circulating pump working fine (I have a water feature connected to the hose that goes to the heater intake). I figured I had just about replaced all the guts and I was good to go...nope. Same old thing. What do you think?

[@craigsmith5025]

@@olympiashorts Power off, disconnect the phone plug connecter to AUX PANEL, power back up.

[@olympiashorts]

@@craigsmith5025 No change

[@stevechristian832]

Hi Craig, I was wondering if you can give me some advice on my Hot Spring tub which does not heat and which has a blinking red power light. I have replaced the heater and the pump is working well. On the panel the "LIM OK" is not lit, the "HTR ON" is not lit and the "CONTROL UNPLUGGED" is lit. Thoughts? Thank you!!

[@craigsmith5025]

Power off. If it's a 2- breaker spa, flip on ONLY the spa breaker, leave the heater breaker off. Confirm circ pump flow. See if it goes into the flashing error without the heater powered up. If so, you likely have a bad hi limit sensor.

[@stevechristian832]

@@craigsmith5025 You got it! I have a bad hi limit sensor. Do you have a video or instructions on how to fix that?

[@craigsmith5025]

@@stevechristian832 if the 3/4" tunes to and from the heater are warm (use a hair dryer) you can use small wood strips and a c-clamp to pinch/collapse the vinyl tube to remove the sensor without water gushing out like crazy. Make sure the replacement sensor is a hi limit and not a control thermistor, and make sure the plug end of the new sensor is the correct one.

[@craigsmith5025]

@@stevechristian832 the sensors unscrew from the heater with a 1/2" wrench. There is an o-ring in there as well.

[@craigsmith5025]

I'm sorry. I failed to see that CONTROL UNPLUGGED was lit, it was late when I read this. CONTROL UNPLUGGED means you have a bad control panel, or a mouse chewed wire going to it. Do you have a 09-12 spa with the LCD screen dog bone shaped control panel?

[@Jonathan-ih9hm]

Can I reach out to you regarding the electrical hook up. I can compensate you for the knowledge?

[@craigsmith5025]

No compensation necessary. csmith 1149 at wi dot rr dot com. (Done to avoid the bots) Pics of what you have helps... often it's a simple error easily spotted.

[@SDTCH4]

hi there... just replaced motor and heating element. took ozone generator out but when I put. it back together the red and green lights are blinking - no hot water... any thoughts?

[@craigsmith5025]

Red/green is a flow error with the circ pump. So either the circ pump is airlocked, it died, or it's running & pumping just fine, but the pressure switch in the heater isn't closing. Check for actual flow from the 24/7 circ. Did you accidently unplug your PRESSURE SWITCH connection wire?

[@craigsmith5025]

Check out my other video for flashing power/ready light

[@anthonycarcano8971]

Hey craig, awesome videos. I keep hearing about a high heat reset button online. I cant seem to find it on my hot springs prodigy. Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks a tonn

[@craigsmith5025]

The reset button on the control box was retired in 1996. Reset buttons on the heaters themselves were retired in 2003. From then on, spas had no reset buttons. Either a pressure switch fail safe, or a PDR Power Down Reset feature within the heater. Is your heater a twin tube heater with a wire coming out the side, or a twin tube without the wire coming out the side?

[@anthonycarcano8971]

@@craigsmith5025 its a twin tube heater with wires out of the top. When i turn the tub on i hear clicks and then the D17 light turns solid red on the panel. I had previously thought it may be some kind of bad relay? P.s. thanks so much for your help.

[@adambutters9025]

Hi craig, my hot springs prodigy hot tub is not powering up on the display. So basically it's not doing anything at all. I have checked all the breakers and everything is on correctly. But once again the screen has no lights or any function at all. It was working fine and then just stopped. Any ideas? Thank you in advance!

[@craigsmith5025]

Take the cover off the IQ-2020 box. The main circuitboard has diagnostic LEDs near the top. LIM OK, HEATER ON, and CONTROL UNPLUGGED. If none of these are on, you may have a dead board, but confirm power in where breaker wires connect. With 115V at inputs 2 & 5 it should be lighting up LEDs. If the spa is within 10 years old it would be inputs 5 & 7. Is this a black oval display panel on the tub's side, or a silver dog bone shaped panel on the shell? If you got the dog bone panel '09-'12, you are likely looking at a complete IQ system upgrade.

[@SalMonty-bz7el]

Hey I got a hot springs prodigy h with it 2020 and the red and green lights are flashing alternating do you know what that means?

[@craigsmith5025]

Alternating I've only seen once when an incompatible control panel was plugged into the IQ-2020.

[@craigsmith5025]

I'd check for mouse chewed wires up to the remote dock.

[@terencemccloskey6283]

What reasons for no power going to panel plz n thanks ireland

[@craigsmith5025]

No power to the Control panel? A mouse chewed ribbon cable, but that would usually have 'CONTROL UNPLUGGED' LED lit on the main board. Do you have power to the main board? LIM OK and HEATER ON indicator LEDs lit?

[@rickyb7483]

Thanks. It was a pressure switch.

[@craigsmith5025]

I have 3 videos on not heating. One of those videos covers both LEDs blinking which is a pressure switch flow error problem.

[@rickyb7483]

@@craigsmith5025 Thanks. Mine was the power and ready flashing on the control head. Last time it was a short in the lights. This time it was both the recirculating pump and pressure switch. Wonder why they both seemed to fail at the same time?

[@craigsmith5025]

If the pressure switch is old and stiff, it was kept closed by the 24/7 circ pump as it aged. Then when the circ pump died, the stiff switch opened up, but the flow resumed, could not close it. Often a water change reveals a pressure switch problem. Good chemistry and not using tablet floaters ensures long life of components.

[@stevensingleton5179]

what about when blue indicator is on, and the green indicator is flashing?

[@craigsmith5025]

Green ready light is a control thermistor (temp sensor) error.

[@serious4play]

Hi Craig, you do great videos, keep them coming. I have a hot spring envoy approx 10 or 11 years old. It has a flashing green light and no bubbles coming up from the small round grill in the tub!!! What do you suggest?

[@serious4play]

Just to add more info I have taken the side cover off and my circulation pump is not working and the htr red led is not lit!

[@craigsmith5025]

If your circ pump is totally dead, a reboot has the PDR heater coming on and overheating with no water flow through it. This runs a 50/50 chance of either the hi-limit sensor getting too hot throwing it in a flashing red, or the control thermistor getting too hot and throwing it into a flashing green, whichever error occurs first. Now if you do have flow through the heater and it is NOT getting super hot, you got a bad control thermistor on the input with a flashing green.

[@Stevegardens85]

My hot tub won’t heat and on the board the red led far to the left above the heater connection is blinking. Any tips?

[@craigsmith5025]

Is that blinking LED the D9 or D10? What is illuminated or dark on the top of the main board? (LIM OK, HEATER ON, CONTROL UNPLUGGED)

[@craigsmith5025]

A blinking red D9 means stuck relay, so the other relay is locked out. Usually the boards are very reliable. But a failing main board or control panel causes the relay to chatter and weld itself shut. Replace both boards. However it is also slightly likely that the control panel caused the failure. Go with most plausible.

[@Ms45forlife]

Anybody know what is the model of this spa? Both the home with it not sure what's the model

[@craigsmith5025]

The spa in my video is a Hot Spring Vanguard. The Grandee has the same basic layout, but is 10% bigger. You can look in the pump compartment to get the serial number, and use my serial number video to figure out EXACTLY what you have.

[@ffhjvbuydb78eb]

What does it mean when both red and green lights are flashing after you changed the water and filled it back up? Is that normal?

[@craigsmith5025]

Check my other video for both lights flashing.

[@shanehudson9282]

Hi there could you help.i have had 2x guys come round to look at my vanguard.not heating up 1st guy said it was the heater so we replaced it.still no heating up.then he wouldn't answer his phone. Second guy said it was the heater board .replaced that.heaterd up the tripped out .turned power off then heated up again and then tripped again.so he didn't come back.lol so still no hot tub that works.when I tool the panel cover off on the heater board the red light is flashing but I don't know what it means.thanks can you help

[@craigsmith5025]

What do you mean by tripped out? Tripping the breaker, or going into a flashing error? If so, what error? What is lit on the main board and what is dark?

[@craigsmith5025]

I have 3 videos of not heating. Heed everything I cover on them. I had one where the metal bracket cut through the tape and shorted the legs on the chip. He could not figure it out, but I saw that and immediately knew the problem.

[@shanehudson9282]

@@craigsmith5025 it tripped the breaker I think as the water was red hot.so we had to turn of my the mains to let it cool do as we couldn't press any button on the panel.i will watch your other videos thanks.were about are you from

[@shanehudson9282]

Hi Craig.. my hottub has just the red light on at the front panel.could you show me were the breakers are on the heater place were you can reset please.thank you

[@craigsmith5025]

Just the red light on (not flashing) is covered in one of my other two NOT HEATING videos. Not covered by this video for flashing red light.

[@hollyjohnson2570]

Craig thank you so much!! You helped me figure out my problem snd helped me fix it!! I think?? Green to red flashing light... panel just stuck on that! Ty 4 ur videos!!! (New home owner inherited a hot tub) we like it a lot but... I'm not sure how to clean it and I think I may have ruined it 😕.. any tips??

[@craigsmith5025]

I have another video that troubleshoots a flashing power/ready light. Actually I have 3 videos for 3 scenarios for not heating, all worth watching to help you understand how your tub works, and what to look for.

[@suziesavage-cahill3897]

What is e-4 code telling us

[@craigsmith5025]

There is no E4 code in Hot Spring highlife IQ-2020 PUG control systems. What make/model/year spa do you have?

[@craigsmith5025]

When you bump the SET TEMPERATURE above 104, it will display ut1, ut2, ut3, ut4. Which are higher override temps of 105, 106, 107, 107.5

[@aslauggudmunds7651]

My tub is stuck on u3 - 4 , what to do ??

[@craigsmith5025]

UT-1 through UT-4 are override temps above 104. They mean 105, 106, 107, and 108 degrees. Press TEMP MUNUS button to bring it down, unless your minus button is getting unresponsive. It may take several presses if the button is getting iffy. A new control head is needed if your buttons fail completely.

[@timesup6386]

Yea, why do I get air locked when the tub is full and clean filters?

[@craigsmith5025]

Is your weir door getting stuck in the UP position when you run the jets?