How to Replace Oil Filter & Cooler Housing 5th Generation Caravan

[@TRQ]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@Harrysun-xp8bh]

Your videos rock

[@timbenson2051]

Thanks. I followed this plan and completed the job in 6 hours. I used the Dorman aluminum housing. One note, you only need to remove the 2 10mm bolts on the front brackets. Once the rear bracket is removed, the upper manifold will swing up and slide out of the 2 front brackets

[@taylorcorrie2941]

Great video. I really appreciate the effort. Finished mine yesterday with only minimal 4 letter words used. As a side note... I was able to remove the upper manifold without removing the front two brackets. I simply removed the nuts on the front and removed the entire rear bracket and it slips right out. Unless I’m missing something I did not see a reason to remove these brackets. Saves a lot of headache. Especially if you have big hands.

[@atxfalcon8813]

I figured that out after struggling with one of the brackets. Maybe shop manual says to do that, but not necessary at all IMO.

[@pauleyman]

@@atxfalcon8813 I just finished also. I did not loosen the brackets either. Totally unnecessary. Didn't even require any prying to get the upper back on with the brackets in place.

[@brianmccauley9385]

We

[@219870]

@@atxfalcon8813 aaaaa Q1

[@joenic4303]

Same here.

[@niz76]

Thanks for this vid! Got the $100 Amazon all aluminum upgraded part and probably watched four times over and even paused and went step by step while doing this job on our 2012 Chrysler TnC. Up and running again after gushing coolant out of this housing and barely limping home. The kids are happily transporting 165lbs of food to Cub Scouts right this minute! :) Oh, and btw I used a 1/4" socket instead of 'inverted torx' and it worked fine for me.

[@coinslotsandjoysticks2572]

Just finished doin mine. Only took about 2 hours and was easier than I figured it would be. Runs like new and isn't leaking a drop now. It was leaking about a quart of oil every ten miles. Not now. Thks for the video

[@brakattack8]

Had yours thrown the engine code for low oil pressure? Mine has and the engine has an occasional shutter.

[@roytube10]

great video, referred to AGAIN to refresh my memory on the right steps. actually did it in March of 2021, had to replace again in Dec 2022, used an aluminum one now, so hoping that isn't as defective as these crappy plastic ones. Two years later and this is still the best video out there for this repair. thanks!

[@john7365]

I'm using an aluminum one as well! Hopefully it holds

[@mojeff314]

You all have some great videos by the looks of the few I've seen recently as a result of this oil cooler issue. This really wasn't that bad of a job. Here are my takeaways. 1. Definitely drain the coolant prior to this repair. Otherwise, you will likely get a significant amount into the crank case when disconnecting the coolant inlet hose from the cooler. 2. No need to remove those bottom front bolts. The top two takes care of it. 3. A 12 point quarter inch socket fits great on the inverted torque heads. No stripping at all. 4. Utilize the burp funnel and thermostat bleeder to remove air from the radiator. I initially did not and got help from a friend to understand it was not a clogged heater core or issue with water pump or thermostat for why coolant wasn't cycling and therefore the engine was getting hot and there was no heat. I just had air in the line. Using a combination of the special funnel (to prevent mess) and the bleeder valve solved it. 5. Change your oil in case it's contaminated with coolant. 6. The air transfer box that connects to the throttle body sucks to get on and off. To get off, I ended up accidentally popping one of the rubber grommets off. After many failed attempts to get on, I popped both off, affixed them to the box, slipped the seal over the throttle body, then popped the grommets on the posts. It was nice and easy that way. 7. If you have a fair amount of mileage (mine has 102k) you might as well change the plugs and coils while in there. Hopefully the dorman cast aluminum prevents this from happening again. No signs of leakage thus far. Thanks for the great video. I will definitely consider TRQ parts in the future due to the great content you put out.

[@allangee]

Thank you! I LITERALLY could not have done this repair without the video! I recommend anyone trying this for themselves start with those two front brackets -- they will be by far the hardest parts to get out and, if you have the patience to do those, you'll be able to do the rest easily... as long as you follow this video. Raising the front end, even on jack stands will make those two/bolts studs more accessible from the bottom than from the top. Or you may want to removed the radiator fan (more time consuming, but doable and frees up space (I didn't)). I do believe I'm going to go like some of your other videos, simply because I can't give this one more than a single 'like'.

[@pauleyman]

as others have commented you don't even need to remove them or even loosen them. It wasn't a big deal you just place the studs through the holes first then line everything up. Easy.

[@Tay58382]

In a league of your own young man very well Illustrated and I'm impressed that you're actually doing it correctly so many of the videos out there performing the same task and none of them that I have viewed are using torque specs and then they wonder why they have to do it five times

[@sethchapman4259]

Thank you for making this video, it was extremely helpful. I’ve watched a lot of videos on tutorials. No unnecessary chatting about personal things or irrelevant things. Very professional, and informative. Great work and thank you again for the effort on making this

[@charlesbowman7586]

Thank you so much for showing me how to install this part , I'm poor and you saved me money

[@jsned2502]

Great video. Very clear and pointed out whats needed and no extra crap. DONT take the bottom nuts studs off the 2 front brackets. You just need to do the top 10mm nuts and it will ccome off easily. Those 2 freaking bottom studs are the only hard part of this job. Getting them off isn't too bad but getting them back in ssusuuuuuuuccckkks.

[@dennisf2115]

Thanks for the detailed instructions especially the torque specs for all bolts and socket sizes used throughout. As others have said the front brackets do not need to be removed. Just to two front bracket upper/top bolts and the upper intake bolt stems will slide right out. The first time I had this replaced not at a dealership but one of my local reputable repair places I was charged around $900. They used a Mopar OEM filter housing which itself was $414 plus around $300 labor plus another $60 for the intake gasket set.

[@JRGriggs]

Thanks! Used this the whole way. The under-29-minute video made me confident I could get it done quick. I was wrong, but I did get it done, lol.

[@zuberalisyed9786]

Trq DIY Videos are the best. They have saved me thousands of dollars. I replaced my brakes watching the video. Thanks Guys

[@AlAl-wu7mp]

This is an excellent video done by a true mechanic. Thanks

[@stevensly]

Great video! This is the most detailed video i could find covering the lower intake manifold gasket replacement. Thanks for the thorough video, I am more confident to tackle this job!

[@TRQ]

+Stevensly Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@mikemaj8467]

Great video. Followed along. After fighting with the front bracket removal, I finally realized you don't actually have to remove them. There is enough clearance to easily get the upper intake bracket studs to engage the front brackets. Just wanted to pass along.

[@roytube10]

great instructions thank you. i did on my 2012 GC couple of notes from my findings: front brackets and wiring harness did NOT need to come off and on mine that passenger side stud bolt is damn near impossible. change plugs if you have intake off drain oil before you start repairs, will save you a mess don’t need to drain coolant unless you need to get the top radiator hose outta the way

[@TRQ]

+roytube10 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@iansutube]

I thought the coolant had to be drained because it might have oil in it.

[@1985ThePedro]

Thank you. I had a question of the best method (quickest to the oil cooler, without damaging or unnecessary teardown) and I only watched a few minutes but your video perfectly answered how to pull the fuel rail and best practice on removing the oil cooler component. You saved me 30 minutes, and I felt it justified spending 2 minutes to let you know.

[@TRQ]

+1985ThePedro Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@jaktheapprentice1023]

What is an inverted torx socket and what size do I need

[@sincityspy]

Much appreciate how you stress not to let anything drop into the engine. That could be game over😮

[@nn-lw7hv]

Thank you for the video. In doing mine, I found out you don't have to remove the front brackets - just the rear bracket - then pull the intake manifold toward the rear as you lift and the front screws will slide out. Just remove the two front nuts.

[@TRQ]

+wubanchi Ethiopia Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@st0n3r78]

nn2022 so on the front brackets you say to not remove them, but mention removing 2 front nuts. You mean the nut holding the cooler line to the stud and which other nut on the front?

[@mfam2371]

@@st0n3r78 no for future diyers. The two front nuts on the studs for the intake plenum brackets are what hold the plenum at the front. They are beneath the upper radiator hose. If you take of everything stated in the video but instead of removing the entire front two brackets, you remove the front two 10mm nuts instead, you will be able to lift the plenum up and back and slide the two studs out of the holes on the brackets. ALSO *pay attention to the two "petetongs" the tech mentions on the throttle body attachment to the air box intake tube. The rubber grommets that the petetongs push into may stay on the actual petetongs when you initially remove the black plastic piece that attaches to the throttle body.

[@justinanderson181]

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE TO ANYONE WHO ISN’T MECHANICALLY INCLINED BUT IS LOOKING TO TAKE THIS ON- You can get away without taking off the entire bracket but MAKE SURE you put the studs through the brackets when installing it. I didn’t (a major mistake on my end) and it broke the lower manifold since it wasn’t lined up right. Just had to order a 150 part off a website to fix it. Still about 400 dollars under what a mechanic would’ve cost but it was a stupid rookie mistake and it was costly.

[@gregv1776]

Thanks for the video. Just did this today and your step-by-step is great. In particular, appreciate that you did the re-assembly part (with the graphics on the order). Lots of videos will just say to do it backwards from pulling it apart but it was very helpful to have the whole process.

[@ivanrocs82]

Great video very detail however don’t forget to drain the coolant it mix with your oil and will also create a mess

[@nadirmohamed7958]

Great step by step video. There are two harness clips on the power plenum which was not shown in this video. They need to be detached. The two front brackets are definitely the most difficult part of this job. I recommend detaching the upper rad hose to get better access. I used a flex head spark plug ratchet and a deep socket to remove the passenger side lower bolt. Also the rear bracket power bolt is very easy to lose. I still cant find mine which fell into the lower control arm never to be seen again. Finally budget about an hour to clean the valley under the oil cooler ensuring the intake cavities are blocked with clean paper towel or rags. It was an absolute mess.

[@markweber1677]

Thanks for the video helped a lot I would just like to add that you do not have to take the front brackets loose just take off the two nuts. Just take off the bracket in the back

[@isaiaslivemusica8788]

great video !! question : after I replaced the oil housing i dont have enough heat , and when i drive over 60 mph , temperature gauge goes up ...

[@Lfg_legacy]

Awesome video! What size inverted torx socket did you use on the oil cooler?

[@tuckersmith150]

E8

[@Hubjeep]

10:24 How did you detect a leak with that little oil leaking?!?! My friend's Jeep has a cascade of oil on the transmission and T-case!

[@rmproute66]

It's the way that those 3.6 Pentastar engines are designed. They look like it's a tranny leak when in fact it's the Oil from that housing. It is an unusually tight design that can be an all day project to fix on a normally 3 hr book job from a Mechanic.

[@EPURCHASE]

Dude, you're great. Probably this video will save me $800+

[@kolodworca]

The best video about replace cooler. For me I've also removed fan to have more space for my hands. Very good job!

[@robertwest3093]

Nice to see that even the experts have trouble with those hose clamps!

[@richardpaquin7066]

You are a genius ! Very well illustrated and explained, and the video capture is excellent. Thank you so much !

[@franka2507]

Great demonstration procedure, @ 15.21 in your video I noticed the oil temp. sensor was not reconnected, did you had to go back to redo it?

[@espy0008]

Thank you for this video. I truly believe this particular part was engineered to ensure a costly dealer repair.

[@kaleoariola]

Do you need to drain the coolant to change the oil filter housing?

[@jduke1975]

Hi. Job done, thanks for the video. **BUT** I forgot to reconnect the vacuum hose leading to the brake booster. Van ran well for a few minutes, then started to surge. Had a closer look and spotted the disconnected hose. Van running very well now, but I have a P2173 code (Throttle Actuator Control System - High Airflow Detected). Is this likely related to the hose being off temporarily? Thanks .

[@brianbrown9781]

What is the tool called you used at 8:35 to get that clamp off

[@MoodAmbience23]

Great video and very well edited. I loved it. Thanks a lot. One thing that might be a mute point after 1 year of this video being uploaded but you forgot to plug the two connectors for the oil filter housing @ 15:22.

[@c_mac7773]

Anytime I’m scraping with a razor blade in a situation like that are usually hold the blade in one hand and the vacuum and the other so it sucks up any debris immediately

[@Hubjeep]

Dude, I was thinking the same thing!

[@VIC1586]

awesome video , i would like to try on my but it seems difficult to me , do you know how much it cost this repair?

[@alanhanus8668]

Thanks for this video. This was my first time replacing something that wasn’t the battery. The step by step instructions were so easy.

[@transportation10]

Awesome video. I need the oil filter housing assembly for a 2015 dodge caravan. Do you have this part on your website? Please send a link if you do have one in stock. Thanks!

[@paulkeehn5316]

Best video on this subject. Excellent camera work and good graphics for torque sequence. Saved the day. Keep up the good work

[@tysonjones8251]

Great video, don’t remove the mounting brackets though just the bolts and the upper manifold will come off

[@TheRoadLessChosen]

Absolutely beautiful! Best teaching video I’ve seen on KZbin. Well Done! SUBSCRIBED!!!

[@matthewwelch2613]

I am struggling so much to get the air intake back into place. Do the grommets rest on the pylons or do the pylons actually insert into something?

[@alanhanus8668]

My next project is the Transmission fluid pressure sensor/ switch G circuit PO83B. Do you have a video on that or could you let me know where it is and how to change it? Thanks

[@dejay727272]

Really appreciate the video, on my 2015 GC i did not have to remove the front brackets or their bottom bolts/ nuts

[@mostwantedmtl]

Great video sir, how many hours approximately it would take to do all you did in this video?

[@scmafia7515]

I noticed the pressure sensor connector is different than the factory sensor one. Any reason for the change?

[@eccentricsmithy2746]

there is literally no reason to remove those brackets 3:10 to replace the oil filter housing, I did this job 3 times on 3 different caravans, never needed to remove the brackets.

[@jacoblynch6977]

Thank you so much! I am so tired of half-done videos where no torque specs or tightening order is provided.

[@keithchesterman5706]

Second time doing this. Torqued the filter cap to tight both times and cracked the housing. Bought an aluminum unit and will be extremely diligent with torque . Thank you sooooo much.

[@smoovt]

Thanks took about 4 hrs...great video

[@stepbystep8800]

I just did mine but didn’t drain the coolant. Am I in trouble ? What should I do ?

[@Nan-bv6kb]

I plan to do it myself. Does anyone know why we need to do a pressure test on the cooling system? Is it a mandatory step after the oil house changing?

[@zuberalisyed9786]

I replaced mine with Dorman made with aluminum cheap than mopar crap. Fits fine and never worry of breaking plastic

[@D4MI0N]

I just did the same thing.

[@st0n3r78]

Great video, just ordered the part last night. Wished the aluminum Dorman version went back to the 11-13 models but oh well. I highly recommend in your pinned comment to list the tools you used. I had to rewatch many times to catch what you were using. Ive already had to replace my trans cooler aka condenser and so glad i did compared to dealer quoted price. Ill be doing this on my own in a few weeks, outside of coolant and tools, do you recommend anything else on standby?

[@anthonyhenley3883]

Does the oil need to be drained also or just the coolant to change the oil cooler

[@lawrencecavens5760]

The updated unit should of been all aluminium - putting back the same plastic unit - well its going to leak as it ages again. This accomplishes very little.

[@chrisv1085]

Is that hose connected to the cooler a coolant hose?

[@sunshined2680]

This guy is Soo good I want the whole world 🌍 to watch

[@alphagenisis1]

What tool is that at min 8:35 ? I’m having the time of my life trying to get that clamp off.

[@aamira5651]

Awesome video... The bolt sequence and torque specs are appreciated ...

[@allenthomas914]

I have 2017 dodge grand caravan this is the same process correct?

[@01ilhami]

Hello. Thanks for the video. I broke connector under the oil filter housing. Could you please help me? I do not know what it called and how can I find it. Thanks.

[@hiddenghost9200]

I changed mine an I still have smoke coming from that area yes I changed it correct say perfectly any ideas why it’s still smoking

[@piratanet123]

Do you have to replace the oil once you do this process?

[@barlowmath]

Thank you for this video. I had the oil cooler in my 2012 Caravan replaced a few weeks ago and now I have a coolant leak. It looks to be coming from the area of the oil filter. Is there coolant going through the oil cooler or the intake that you have removed. I'm wondering if a mistake in this repair could cause a water leak?

[@russellsteward5553]

Yes coolant runs through the oil cooler.

[@Hubjeep]

16:03 Great video! Curious, did you have any rotation before reaching the torque value while using the torque wrench? That battery driver looked like it made the fasteners fairly tight.

[@joshuaculick7767]

Im kind scared to do this myself. Do you think its easy for diy? I chnaged my tipm module alone and did fine. Just not sure about this.

[@To-Masz]

What tightening torque? Filter and collector, please let me know.

[@JosephOntiveros-j4p]

So is it necessary to drain the coolant when making this repair?

[@zuberalisyed9786]

nice video and explanation. question why is the heating gauge always in the middle does this mean the car is running hot?

[@isaacd5845]

Did you find out why ?

[@zuberalisyed9786]

@@isaacd5845 yes it was the pressure build up in the coolant. sweated a bit and it goes normal.. Also Domestic cars always runs hot

[@JohnSmith-nh9vr]

You don't need to remove any of the front brackets , Just did the work and all you do is remove rear bracket and slide bolts into the front holes.

[@sammieshelton6883]

What would cause the leaking would it be the gaskets being bad or can the whole housing fail

[@cerronetube]

Total newbie here with a question - Do we need to drain the oil from the engine before this repair?

[@hollysed1]

Great video! Thank you for the help! I was able to bypass having to take off the front brackets.

[@Gatorman6924]

Why does it say to install them dry in the fsm? And you put oil on them?

[@raymondbennett]

Great video. I’m going to swap my oil filter housing tomorrow.

[@bigdummy9844]

I've got my new cooler hooked up but I cannot get the 'oil tube' (tube under filter housing) pushedcall the way down. I see a lip in the port the tube supposed to sit on but I cannot physically push it down all the way. Do I tighten the bolts to pull this down?

[@jimmyanderson4688]

Did you have to drain the oil or coolant? I have a 2015 200 that needs the oil cooler replaced

[@gladstoneeverard5655]

This video is very helpful because i have to do the same thing to my van and you and this video was perfect thank you

[@aerozolic]

Which holes in the engine are coolant holes and which are oil holes? The big one on the right is probably coolant. Is the second big one, the left most one, also coolant hole?

[@brentglass5998]

Did you drain oil also?

[@highlifegoodlife5400]

I got oil leak and got aluminum housing is it necessary to change coolant if its still orange ?

[@TRQ]

+@highlifegoodlife5400 It is not necessary to change the coolant.

[@patrickdaigneault4796]

Bonjour, merci pour vos vidéos, elle sont très intéressantes?? À quel endroit je peux savoir ou obtenir le torque de chacune des boulons nous avons à serrer sur nos véhicules?? Merci à pour votre attention.

[@IFIXCASTLES]

Two electric connectors on cooler replugged in?

[@nicholaswitter3039]

This is important to address!!!! I did it naturally it after re watching the video post repair to confirm my steps I noticed this as well.

[@kEEPITMOVIN408]

Any idea why I hear a clicking noise after I put the new filter housing ?

[@x21gokartracing]

The procedure is the same for a 2014, I replaced the part today, the rubber seals on the bottom did not fail a piece of the plastic that secures the seal in the grove broke off and compromised the seal (I don't how it happened I bought the van new 2013) the brackets for the front of the intake to not have to be taken out, only the star nuts taken off. when the star nuts are taken off the bracket on the back side of the intake and the threaded bolt that secures the bracket to the block taken out, lifting up the back of the intake and forward will take it out of the front brackets.

[@commutingwithkevin6548]

Holy crap. This might save SO much time. Those two bottom bolts are the hardest, but this makes sense to me.

[@jzahirniak]

I was thinking that would probably work when I was watching the video. Glad to hear you found that works cause that does look like a time saver!

[@hahockyang4440]

best lecture for DIYs, thank you!

[@vinloy23]

This particular car seems to have no leaks. I saw no oil and coolant collected in valley between the banks of the V6. I only removed the rear bracket, not the front two. Upper intake simply slides back and out. The air filter to throttle body connecting assembly...I could not get the rear holes snap onto the two studs, even with grease. The red injector connector release tabs can break if not pre-lubed. The intake ports must be covered until the lower intake is ready to be installed. It is also vital to replace the oil cooler return hose that attaches to the filter adapter while doing the adapter replacement. This will avoid the inevitable replacement needed a few years later.

[@jdoublem_lo8240]

Did you leave the car sitting for a day or two because when you pulled of the housing no oil or coolant came out

[@TRQ]

+Elver Galarga Thanks for watching! The car likely sat for a bit which gave those fluids time to settle!

[@nocontact80]

I overtorqued the when putting in the new oil filter housing cooler unit?? now what?? righty loosey?!

[@superj5869]

Great video but just did it last night on our 2016 and you do not need to take those two front brackets off take the 2 10mm nuts off get the back bracket off tip it up from the back and it comes right out save yourself having to go underneath for that bolt and I didn't drain the coolant use coolant clamp from harbor freight clamp the line loose almost nothing clean everything off slap new one in torque it all to specs took 1 hour and 35 minutes start to finish

[@manpreetmultani7399]

Do we need to drain coolant to that?

[@davidholliman5]

Guessing you drained coolant before this job? Do you absolutely have to?

[@kainenslaton366]

Great video. Anyone can do this. Watch this video, buy all of the stuff you don’t have, and take your time.

[@jaktheapprentice1023]

I am at the step of fastening the upper intake manifold: Do you get the bolts all the way down to flush with the plastic before torquing? You fasten down with impact gun and then torque it. I ratcheted down to flush before torquing. HOWEVER, my torque wrench did not register the proper torque. I obviously torqued down too much so I loosened all bolts and started over. I am very skiddish to stripping the bolts and not doing this correctly. Please give me some feedback. I need more detail on how the bolts feel while fastening them in. I dont know what im doing wrong. It doesnt feel right.