How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing/Hub 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee

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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASH...
Not only can a worn wheel bearing or hub be annoying if it is noisy or vibrating, but it can also lead to accelerated wear in other parts, or unsafe driving conditions. Replacing your worn bearing or hub with a quality TRQ part is a safe, smart, decision. This video shows you how to do the replacement yourself on your 1983-2001 Jeep Cherokee.
• Check here for more videos on the 1983-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ • Jeep Cherokee 2nd Gene...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
1984 Jeep Cherokee
1985 Jeep Cherokee
1986 Jeep Cherokee
1987 Jeep Cherokee
1988 Jeep Cherokee
1989 Jeep Cherokee
1990 Jeep Cherokee
1991 Jeep Cherokee
1992 Jeep Cherokee
1993 Jeep Cherokee
1994 Jeep Cherokee
1995 Jeep Cherokee
1996 Jeep Cherokee
1997 Jeep Cherokee
1998 Jeep Cherokee
1999 Jeep Cherokee
2000 Jeep Cherokee
2001 Jeep Cherokee
Tools you will need:
• Pocket Screwdriver
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 36mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AAS...
• Straight Cutters
• Socket Driver
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Rust Penetrant
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Wheel Chocks
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Jeep Cherokee 2nd Generation 1984-2001: • Jeep Cherokee 2nd Gene...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@TRQ]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@maryannscappucci4269]

THIS IS A VERY WELL DONE VIDEO...straight to the point, gave information on each tool use, the torque spec's for each nut and bolt and was very clear in her instructions through out the whole process. A job well done. Thanks

[@theloudprofessional]

Make it looks so easy I just know this would take me days with multiple moments of frustration.

[@DirtyDishSoap]

Awesome stuff. I just need a shop and a lift/jack

[@wheelermaximus6736]

Great! Accurate, to the point, precise. Thank you. I'lll be watching more.

[@stanharris9808]

Great instruction. I need one done. Wish this mechanic lived near me.

[@7recon1]

Excellent DIY video

[@CliffLattish]

Thank you very much, made the job so much easier Could not get the castle nut and cotter pin in with the wheel on

[@khristophertaylor3718]

Everybody's watching this witch's wondering this is a true mechanic

[@stuartoates424]

Well done, excellent ,informative video

[@nickd1978]

Is it not worth changing out the old hardware (axle nut, etc) for new hardware? It looks so beat up and crusty. I’m new to this and genuinely curious. Thanks

[@mateopen8597]

Great job

[@TenPointTyrone]

Was a very descriptive and informative video and I very much appreciate it but you did not say what size or list the size of the castle nut not that it's too hard to find out but he's just letting you know again I really appreciate it your videos

[@BlindDude]

Wow, new ujoints happened too

[@MrPedagno]

What are the spec’s on your impact?

[@blacksheep25251]

I'm all for equality and all that, but common!! Not all of us have a lift and Snap-On. Show some reality laying in dead grass and dirt and spending 2 hours and 8 beers looking for that cotter pin because you are WAYYY past driving to the parts store for a simple pin...

[@christianvellandi5991]

Great in theory. Then you try to tighten the lugs on the tire and the wheel won't spin freely. Somehow the rotor is stopping but only when the lugs are tight. Then you go on forums to see why and everyone points to the brake calipers. You spend most of a day taking the tire, calipers and rotor on and off and still can't get the tire to spin freely when the lugs are tight. The rotor is making contact with the dust cover and the steering mechanism. Why? Then you put the new hub up against the old one and you notice that the new hub I bought from 1A is about 3/16 to 1/4 inch shorter then the old hub. Since the rotor sits on that, every time you tighten the lugs, it jams the rotor against the inside and it locks up.