Truck Hitch Crane Build Ep. 7: First Test!

This is it, we finish off all of the fabrication and machining for the truck hitch crane and put it to the first test!
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[@travisd1000]

Just something to consider -- if you have the landing leg down in contact before loading - after you load the truck is going to squat a little - may need to consider how you release tension on the leg if the load is high enough!

[@jbmillard]

I would probably use an RV level jack that can be undone.

[@budlvr]

'short-pin' the leg; enough so when the bed is loaded, the leg just touches down for the load to move to the bed.

[@riverflyswatter]

@@jbmillard take the truck to puddins fab shop for some air bags

[@52Ford]

When I designed mine, I decided on a screw jack as the support leg. I also made sure I can quickly remove the jack entirely so I can position the truck with the crane still installed.

[@seanthompson6720]

I was thinking if the load is heavy enough the weld at the T could shear off

[@NeoClassicalRelativity]

Respectfully if I might suggest, it'd be better to have the holes distanced on a spiral down that pipe, instead of a straight line down. - That way, the weight of the load will rest on the entire pipe below a certain hole, unlike the case of the holes in line where the weight of the load will rest only on the little part between 2 holes - which could break under hundreds of lbs. - Also I hope the pin is very strong and won't be sheared by the 2 pipes. -- Other than that, great work as always, thank you for sharing it!

[@Garth2011]

Great idea...

[@jsteifel]

I was thinking the same thing.

[@joewest1972]

Why not weld plate on the bottom and use the screw jack you already have.

[@DavidLindes]

I think I agree, though I will point out that this would make aligning the holes for pinning a fair bit more difficult. He clearly did think about how much space to leave between holes, so... hopefully it'll be alright.

[@krbruner]

I was actually thinking about having the entire post slide through the pipe instead of having an adjustable foot...the beam attached to the hitch would keep it stable, but all the weight would be on the foot.

[@MrWizards1974]

Argon gas don't "go bad", but in some cases, after an extended period on time set up in the vertical position, they will separate, if they are a mixed gas. Argon-CO2 mixes, need to be laid down on the floor, and rolled around for a bit if you have not used them for extended periods.

[@greeceuranusputin]

I was gonna suggest he shake that tank before every use, like a rattle can.😃

[@mdouglaswray]

@@greeceuranusputin Only if you have a Hulk on staff... lol

[@threeriversforge1997]

@@mdouglaswray Adam just has to bring some of that AbomPower out. :D

[@italyworrier]

Definitely! I have experienced this with all my mixes . 75/25 and definitely my tri mixes . Two ppl make this mixing easy , basically kicking (rolling) it back and forth

[@thekaduu]

That's what I thought too. AR is a Nobel gas (very low reactivity) and CO2 gas is in stable configuration which does not readily react. Sitting few years as he stated must have separated the Argon and CO2. CO2 being heavier, would be at the bottom. You can try to visualize by putting oil (75%) and water (25%) in a bottle in the same proportions... If you "gently" roll it, it will not mix as well. I would think the best way to mix the contents would be shaking it like a champagne bottle (mostly vertical and up/down motion)... Good luck with that :)

[@sigh_of_the_times]

I watched a lot of videos and yours is the 1st video that is fully detailed on building a crain. Thank you for the great video and you did a great job. Thanks.

[@doctorevil7352]

Talked to a friend of mine who taught welding. He said the worm track problem could be caused by contaminated flux. If the wire has been sitting for a lengthy period of time it could have moisture contamination. Hope this helps. The crane build is fricken awesome. Heavy duty without the extreme heavy weight.

[@Garth2011]

So that is why welders store their welding rods inside a refrigerator !

[@samuraidriver4x4]

@@Garth2011 a small oven is better, there are ovens made specifically for storing rods and wire. But moisture could wel be a major part of the problem, always seal rods and rolls back up or store them heated. Especially flux MAG (active due to co2 so not MIG for inert) wire is prone to absorbing moisture fast

[@charlesangell_bulmtl]

@@Garth2011 Dry fluxed electrode runs better too.

[@micdiva]

@@samuraidriver4x4 not all rods need an oven. Just certain ones

[@royreynolds108]

@@Garth2011 Yes, with heat to keep the rods dry.

[@tonyhomer3133]

Love watching you brother. You're an old school guy and I've learned a lot watching your channel. Thanks

[@joshuateter2410]

I might try manipulating your torch angles a bit. Try more of a drag angle, rather than right in at 90°. Also, I believe flux core wires benefit from a longer stick out than traditional wires. 1/2 to 3/4 inch is where I run fc often. The longer stick out allows the wire and flux to preheat before liquefying and transferring to the weld puddle. Just some thoughts from a welder Abom! Fantastic job as always, nothing like using your favorite equipment for a personal project. Keep up the awesome videos! 👍😎👍

[@myharris]

Dunno if Adam heard that but I certainly did - made a difference for me today, thanks for the pro tips!

[@richardwoodruff1732]

I 2nd the longer stick out

[@joshuateter2410]

@@myharris Glad I could help out! Also applies with self shielded flux core; many hobby machines run this and people seriously struggle on that stuff 👍

[@bogdan_n]

@@joshuateter2410 That is because the long stick out needed by the fc totally contradicts the "KEEP A TIGHT ARC, DAMMIT!!!" that gets shoved and bolted in your head when you learn or are taught any other welding method.

[@calvinjutila8270]

@@richardwoodruff1732 Thats whar she said.

[@muckinslusher3771]

Adam, I don't know if you'll read this comment, but those bolts on the horizontal tubing to take up slack should be on the corner. That way it'll tighten up in both planes, and also it's much more difficult to crush or deform the corner of a square tubing. Great videos, love the detail. You're an amazing person!

[@johnmccanntruth]

If it’s 75/25 it’s just become unmixed. You just need to roll the tank around for a while to mix it back up. I had the same problem a while back, and the air/gas supplier said it’s common, especially if the tank has sat for any length of time.

[@mugshotmarley]

Thats right. I remember rolling tanks on the ground at my first shop whenever we changed tanks or brought tanks out from the cage.

[@dbriggs1689]

I've never heard of that. Great tip thanks for sharing.

[@Bill_N_ATX]

Yep, we don’t think about it but the gases do actually weigh different weights. In a bottle that doesn’t move, the heavier gas settles to the bottom. As they say, lay it on its side and roll it around. Some gases do expire. I remember when I worked at the hospital they had small little “E” tanks of oxygen and nitrous oxide on the anesthesia carts used in surgery just in gas the central supply had an issue during surgery. Of course, we never had any issues but we still had to check and replace the tanks every so often. We always vented them before we sent them back.

[@hibiki54]

You don't use 75/25 for shield FC. You use straight Argon.

[@heliarcweldandmachine]

@@hibiki54 no you dont mte you run pure co2.

[@kclaptraffic]

If your putting a foot on it make sure you take a jack with you, if you load enough stuff to squat the truck your foot will be stuck.

[@437thx1138]

wood blocks or cut off RR tie under the foot. spreads the ground pressure too

[@billvandorn5332]

I stumbled on this tonight and I'm so glad to see you building it. I've thought about building something like this for decades but never really had the need until now when I'm older

[@threeriversforge1997]

Very nice work, and I was really happy to see how it made you smile! Lots of aggravation and doubt up til now, and little things like running out of wire or getting those pinholes in the bead only adds to the sense of frustration. But, when all's said and done..... she works! A real treat, Adam.

[@claytonpalsson3104]

I like the idea of spiraling the pinholes for load bearing (giving a bit of art too). Also some kind of roll out design of carrier for the truck to put the jack neatly away in the back on both sides. So wonderful a thing to have. Great idea Adam. Thanks for the video.

[@Histandard2011]

I am not an expert at welding but why run shielding gas and then use expensive flux core wire. I have run tons of 30# rolls or copper clad solid wire with straight co2 or 75/25 shielding gas and get perfect and strong welds.

[@charlesangell_bulmtl]

@@Histandard2011 The dual shield process, when all is right, lays a smooth nearly ripple free weld that looks great under paint.

[@dalerichardson6342]

Adam, great job like always. Instead welding tubes on the outside of your square vertical section of your lift for rotating, drill a hole clean through that section and flush weld a piece of tubing in that goes through the vertical section then you can put in your jack handle from either side and you won't have the two pieces of tubing sticking out from the sides of the vertical section.

[@Highstranger951]

That’s a good idea!

[@ChristopherErringtonPhoto]

Another fantastic video. I love seeing how you go from the design phase to the end result. Keep up the great work and content!

[@louscott8998]

Awesome build Adam! Great time and back saver. You've eliminated having to wait on others to provide a means to load heavy items into your truck.

[@joemascioni3101]

Adam, take your long jack handle and add an F style end on it to fit the square tube of your jack spine. Then you will always have it and no need to add pipes to the sides of the spine. Great job so far! Never thought I would watch 7+ videos on how to build a truck crane, but I am intrigued with the details.

[@royreynolds108]

Great idea.

[@bulldawg6259]

When the load hits your truck the springs will compress , transfering the load to the pin which will cause binding 12:40

[@keithcarter4086]

Most of the load is right on the ground through that foot.

[@keithcarter4086]

I read it again, I now see what you meant, for releasing the device from the receiver and such.

[@macmac19800]

In my opinion, instead of the extendable leg, there should be a hydraulic lift (hydraulic jack), such as in the arm. Greetings from Poland :-)

[@bulldawg6259]

@@keithcarter4086 that little 3/8 pin will have binding problems at heavier loads, simple fix, modify a trailer tounge jack to relieve the load on the compressed truck springs other wise Abom has done a great job Hes one of the best, way better than I could sometimes a different prospective is helpful

[@budlvr]

To alleviate the load drop of the weighted bed, all he has to do is 'short-pin' the leg enough, so the sag of the bed under load, matches the 'short-pinned' leg length. Also, I'd drill more holes lower in the leg, in case of uneven ground (backed up to a curb maybe).

[@lucianoberte7660]

Bravo Adam! It's always a great pleasure to see your projects done so accurately.

[@sfcrblair]

This thing is awesome. I've want to build something like that myself. Thanks for bringing it to us. I love the design and operation of it. Now I have to build one. Love the channel.

[@FailedSquare]

that chuckle when he picked up the vice. hahah I love that feeling when you spend some time thinking of something to solve a problem and it works perfectly.

[@campingstoveman]

A nicely made device but I can see one issue, when you swing the boom so that it runs straight with the truck body I can see a twisting issue about the joint where the box section meets the round upright tube particularly if you find yourself loading on "soft ground" an outrigger that comes away from the tube at 90 deg from the box to the ground to stop it trying to rotate would be useful.

[@henrikstenlund5385]

I thought on that too. I think the whole system is at risk of tilting with a heavy load towards the right side of the truck. I would have added a similar foot on the right side plus the same structure. Also some triangular supports for the long horizontal bar. The loads may be surprisingly high with loads on the order of 500 pounds. I hope this design will be strong enough,

[@jamestamu83]

Exactly. The twisting forces under a 1-ton lift will be enormous, and could twist the square tubing enough that the foot loses ground contact. Need to calculate the moment forces.

[@Workshopfriend]

I should have responded here. You already raised the issue. Next time I will read more posts before jumping in!

[@henrikstenlund5385]

@@jamestamu83 I think the critical thing is that if the load hook goes to the right of the hitch. Then the center of gravity of the load+crane may be to the right of the support point or line. Then bad things may happen with high loads. A second foot on the right would be helpful against this kind of situations.

[@ellieprice363]

@@jamestamu83 I believe Adams’s weight limit is 500 lbs. Even so the hitch bar must very strong to resist the twisting effect of the cantilevered load.

[@joecolanjr.8149]

Adam...the smile on your face when u picked up the vice was priceless!! You are a master my friend. Much respect for you.

[@Woodsguy]

On my Lincoln, when i am running 250 wire speed, i run only around 20 volts on .035 solid wire with the same gas you are running. To get more adjustment holes you can rotate the tube 10-15 degrees and you can have another row of holes.

[@SVImpavidus]

Adam. Great video. What happens when the load is in the truck, and the suspension compresses? Your pin is going to be locked in position. Best regards.

[@BryceAndEveeNZ]

With all due respect to ABOM or Adam I actually agree with you here ... Those pins will be a pain when there's any significant load on the back of that truck

[@daddynichol52]

Attach a tongue jack to the leg. Raise it enogh to relieve pressure. Better yet, use a tongue jack instead of the solid leg altogether.

[@BryceAndEveeNZ]

@@daddynichol52 that is a good solution .

[@jerryshelton1481]

He still hasn't addressed the issue i brought up of how he's going to counteract the weight of what he's lifting on a hill so it doesn't go swinging wildly

[@Xlaxsauce]

yeah, I do think two feet will be better as the truck has to take part of the load due to there being a moment being created as soon as you lift something

[@rongray4118]

Thank you for posting this video. We just purchased a Lift yesterday and THIS is something that I was thinking about. Glad to find your video!!

[@philgarbarini9645]

Thanks for the time you spend sharing your projects.

[@NathanNostaw]

I made up a version very similar to this one, but it ended up being very dangerous. With about 600kg on it, it would twist the bar connecting to the hitch, it would swing wildly when unloading as the suspension would unload and throw the crane off plumb, it also would swing when the suspension compressed, once again swinging wildly. Another issue was any uneven ground made for sketchy lifts, as the crane axis was never plumb. I ended up using 70x70mm square and made up a 3 point frame with adjustable feet at 2 outrigger points and one at the hitch. This way I could plumb the crane and negate any suspension movement. It also allowed for un even ground. Happy to share pics of my setup. I would improve the design a bit more, but so far I have found the setup works well. Just a huge pain to keep attaching and removing when needed. Can't leave it on as it would hit car park ceilings and drive through awnings.

[@stevek8547]

Hi Adam, great job on the crane. Just a thought thou, depending on the weight of the intended object to be lifted, have you considered after placing the item of, say, 500 Lbs or over, in the truck bed, the amount of downward force on the back axil, to remove the adjuster pin out of the hole of the support leg? Enjoy your videos of all your channels. 😁👍

[@codecage9333]

I for one liked that you had to install a new roll of wire! I had no idea how that was done or how it worked. I'm not a welder at all, but enjoy watching you do jobs I'll never do, but appreciate the talent that folks like you have for doing this type of work. Computer geeks don't get much chance to even know how things like these get done.

[@nathanpizzo9444]

Congrats on that build - works like butter!!! You are a master !! So, so cool brother !!

[@michaelgoettsch7744]

To reduce rhea amount of weight you have to lift when installing the crane, instead of bolting everything together, just use pins like on the foot on each end of the cylinder and the hinge joint of the lift. Takes a fee seconds to put together but saves the back and allows for easier storage.

[@rickstephens6795]

Worm tracks from not enough stick out on the wire. The flux isn't getting hot enough.

[@erniemathews5085]

You are a good teacher. It is thoughtful pf you to make videos and show us how this is done, every time.

[@mdvener]

Glad to see it works just as you intended it to. That smile says it all. Great idea, that turns into reality.

[@paulcooper2897]

I think thats going to work great! Any load this is intended to lift shouldn't squat the truck enough to make disassembly an issue. Its not like this is made to move 1000lb++ loads .. 150 to 500 lb is more realistic. I think i might have to make something like this. Edit: argon mixes do "settle" .. i had that issue as a hobby welder with a tank that sits in the corner for months at a time between uses. I lay the tank down in the truck for a day before i plan on welding. Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦

[@glenc90240]

For heavy lifting behind truck there will be a lot of torque at your vertical tube and crossbar, use caution on dirt or gravel... maybe a rubber pad, tire tread on foot. Also, how will you retract foot once the truck is loaded? A hydraulic foot or screw jack might be better than a pin.

[@kenrolt8072]

To further that point, the entire bending moment caused by a heavy lift is carried through 2 point connections: the ground and the hitch. The ground probably needs an outrigger in the hitch direction. I would also triangle gusset the cove weld where the hitch transverse bar mates to the column. Great project BTW.

[@glenc90240]

@@kenrolt8072 my thought was an outrigger to the rear, where most loads will be picked up.

[@bradleywilliams2401]

Whenever U Have 2 Operate This Amazing Shop Tool You'll B The Envy of Every1 Out There ! Well Done Adam ! 👏👏👏 🇨🇦

[@gregorylecompte7120]

So I want to build a hitch crane and googled it. Your video popped up, and now I want to be a machinist!! You explain so well, admit mishaps and create! I subscribed about two minutes into the first video.

[@garyhendrick4391]

50min vid!!! Awesome!! *puts the kettle on*

[@VacFink]

It seems ripe for a dolly/stand project that stores the unit while its not in use, and makes it easy to attach to the truck.

[@52Ford]

That's a good idea. Make it where you could convert it back to an engine hoist.

[@ICA17887]

Practical system to avoid injury during handling. Very good job Adam.

[@fpr283]

Damn nice job, and that is an excellent shop! Thanks for the detailed explanation throughout your video too, it definitely makes a difference!

[@gentlyschannel4193]

Awesome. I'd have some fold out support legs rather than rely solely on the box section to keep the tube vertical under load though.

[@52Ford]

When I designed mine, I did something very similar to what Adam did. It was a while ago, so I don't recall the exact square tube dimensions, but I think mine is 2" square 1/4" wall? Maybe 3/8" wall... I don't remember which. I did a bunch of simulations in CAD and it held up perfectly fine. it DOES deflect enough to notice, but not enough to be a concern. Maybe 5/8" under a very heavy load? My design IS different (taper roller bearing turn table, cable winch, luffing jib, no hydraulics), but that horizontal box section is roughly the same.

[@gentlyschannel4193]

@@52Ford yeah, but overkill fengs my shui, outriggers ftw 😆

[@52Ford]

@@gentlyschannel4193 👍😂 I needed a gantry crane to pick up the bed off my pickup... so, naturally, I made it to pick 10,000 pounds safely. Edit: If you're wondering - It's a fairly large fixed A frame, with 4 crossmembers per A frame and a knee brace on each leg that goes up to the beam. Sits about 14' to the bottom of the beam. roughly 10 feet of clear span between where the knee braces contact the beam. A LOT of welding.

[@stephenridenour6812]

That's awesome, Adam! I don't know what the cost would be to manufacture, but I imagine someone could sell a few thousand of those per year. Additional foot pieces for different truck heights would be necessary. I wonder if a trailer jack setup on the foot and footpad might be a workable solution to the varying height issues as well as the potential binding of the pin?

[@alvalle1206]

Hey my friend instead of welding pipe onto your lift to help rotate why not weld say a 5/6 boss on the boom starlight and a handle that you can just let hang out of the way until you need it . Itll look better and and you wouldn't need to worry about losing a loose rod or forgetting it somewhere. Just a suggestion .Great work ! Always educational.

[@carlwhite8225]

Abom, I will call that hoist a win and a huge back saver, Enjoyed the ride along, Thanks.

[@johnalexander2349]

Very nice. If you were in the EU, you'd be on Part 7 of "Acquiring Permits for the Truck Hitch Crane". If you were in Aus, you'd be in a camp for even thinking about building this.

[@dickgoddard963]

Instead of pushing your wire try dragging it… pinholes might be caused by slag inclusions. Or some flux core wires are negative wires, just check the polarity and check the shielding gas to run with it. Not sure on American colour coding for gas bottles looks like pure argon, may need argon/carbon dioxide mix

[@dalerichardson6342]

Sounds like a plan

[@ROTTK9]

another thing to consider could be a bad liner, I tried to see the gas bottle label and could not read it as he pans over it quickly, I think it is a mix though. clearing the diffuser might also help. side note: In the United States, color-coding is not regulated by law. so, if you ever weld here read labels...

[@cup_and_cone]

The Wesco blue bottles are 75/25 mix.

[@petersmart1999]

Miller lists all of the proper polarity on the inside of the cargo door.It shows flux core to be reverse polarity! He should check that gor sure.

[@Uncle-Duncan-Shack]

How nice is that! Even if you have help, picking heavy stuff up is never good. And that worked out very neat, something you can show off. Kind regards, South Africa

[@KBLIZZ333]

I knew reading the comments there'd be some good ideas 💡. I'd like to add a few. #1 a swivel foot like ones on a c clamp. #2 airbag suspension for the truck. #3 fold down outrigger. #4 linch pins so the hydraulic cylinder so you can install it after mounting the boom upright.

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

Stick out too short. Read the welding wire manufacturer's recommendations. And just a thought: What if there's a ton on the crane, the crane points straight back and that single foot slips? Can the bar and the hitch deal with that kind of torque?

[@BlackEpyon]

Given the kind of torque those receivers get when taking a trailer over bumps and turning, I'd say they probably can.

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

@@BlackEpyon That's not nearly a ton of torque under normal driving conditions - but anyway, I'm mostly worried that the bar can't resist the torque.

[@Room_for_1_more_fruit_tree]

The bed isn't even rated for a ton. Why would he do something that ridiculous anyway. Look how nice the machining is. Do you honestly think he would go ahead and ruin his back saver? If so you are the one that shouldn't be using a crane.

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

@@Room_for_1_more_fruit_tree Okay.

[@RichardKinch]

Lifting system capacity is limited by the *weakest link* under dynamic (not static!) foreseeable conditions. Intuitively this weakest link would seem to be the welded T joint on the vertical post to the horizontal square tube, which is leveraged by the load into bending, twisting, torquing forces all at once, all concentrated in the joint corners. This threatens to peel the weld apart under much less force than the design strength of the joint. The hazard is amplified if the truck should roll slightly, when the weld joint will be twisted by the leveraged mass of the truck! Hence it would seem prudent, with heavy loads, to *CHOCK THE WHEELS FIRST* .

[@brosselot1]

I would agree, but like he said it was for 500-600 pounds.

[@MrWizards1974]

I was thinking the same thing but if it was me i would add a removable leg on a caster to support the twisting force

[@shaneroper5470]

Well done Adam! Looks awesome, and functions even better! 👌

[@mdennis1546]

A very nice engineering and fabrication job. You have done what I wish I could do.

[@msdweldingfabrication7051]

You're going to put way too much torsion and stress on the bottom tube connecting the crane to the hitch. These typer cranes always require bracing on the bottom especially if you want to lift anything of significant weight. Mine has braising and even with the braising sometimes it feels a little sketchy. Try lifting 500-600lbs you won't feel safe using it the way it is

[@jragentk6212]

Exactly what I was thinking, now I haven't welded anything ever, but Torque = length x distance and when he lifted that 200 pound vise he probably put close to 1000 pounds of force on that joint. I would definitely put a big gusset on the top and bottom of that joint.

[@BlackEpyon]

Well, that's a half-ton truck, so you're not going to be putting anything significant into the bed anyways, especially if he's got it fully extended into the 1/2 ton position.

[@markdavies9912]

Personally, I think I would have staggered the holes on the foot to get more metal between them. Having them all in line like that looked kind of weak.

[@davidplatenkamp]

or have several holes in the receiver with different center distance. Vernier pattern.

[@BruiserBob]

I agree. Spiraling them as they go up will fix this problem.

[@criminaloffense7434]

metal stronk

[@garyramsey4275]

I’m excited just seeing how excited you are about this project. Good job!

[@lonniebrock3282]

Adam I'm no machinist I did repair mining equipment underground for my life time but you sir are one high caliber machinist at the very top and I take you as an outstanding person really love your videos and I'm nearing 70 now and I have been around the barn a few times keep up the great job you're doing and stay safe my friend that is if I can call you my friend

[@DAKOTANSHELBY]

Just a thought...the holes may be too close to another. Depending on load, there may be distortion developing. Installing a large threaded rod, with acme threads would provide infinite adjustment to the ground. Great project. Can't wait to see it in action.

[@paulmvn5431]

Or he could have drilled them in a spiral.

[@benwingo6675]

Great looking job you always put great deal of time and thought into your projects. I made one similar years ago and it really comes in handy for those odd jobs.

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

That stilt wont work - I noticed you tested it lifting and setting down and picking back up from the bed, but you didnt load a few things from the swap meet or log pcs from the tree that fell, and then tried to pull that pin now that theres 500-1500lbs of weight in the bed....... You'll never get that pin out to retract the foot without getting out the jack from the truck to relieve the weight off the pin, because when the ass-end of the truck sags, the stilt on the tube is locked in!!! I'm thinking a simple trailer tongue jack with a crank handle, attached and ditch the stilt altogether

[@Abom79]

Oh it’ll work and I can’t wait to prove it to all the naysayers 👍🏻 There’s more to the story than meets the eye.

[@lindasmith285]

@@Abom79 So many nay sayers

[@mdacosta5882]

If he has air struts he can just lift the bed a bit No?

[@arkiefyler]

My thinking, also. This was an incomplete test. Getting that 'foot' retracted is a big part of the "test". I think he''l need to carry some kind of jack to get the pressure off the foot. "A Relief-Jack; Don't leave home without it!" I'm pretty sure he's already got a plan for that. 👍 😄

[@PhilG999]

@@arkiefyler Anybody think the lift itself could easily be used to take the load off the foot? C'mon guys, think! It's right there!

[@rogertaylor1589]

Hey Adam, the way these consumables are engineered these days, I've found it best to use the parameters listed in the data that comes with the wire. Squeeze off 10 seconds of wire fee and actually measure the wire length to set your wire speed. Great job on the project.

[@singleshot2218]

Excellent job Adam! Looks and works great! Take care, God bless! 🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾💋

[@debrainwasher]

No offense intended, but in my humble opinion, this is the perfect accident machine. Two tons of weight as a likely asymmetric shear-force on a 1/2" bolt of the foot? It's enough to make your toes curl. It is not a coincidence, heavy duty ball joints are used to avoid asymmetry and hardened pins in welded bushings to minimize shear forces in such applications.

[@MartinTeerly]

Total agree

[@brosselot1]

I would disagree because it's never designed to load items that are heavy enough to compress the suspension of the truck.

[@jacobfoxworth]

I definitely agree with what you said. Its most certainly true, but I'm pretty sure he said in a previous video that he didn't intend this crane to be used for lifting things much over a few hundred pounds. Just something to help save his back when he's alone and needs a hand lifting something into the bed of the truck.

[@ellieprice363]

I’m sure that Adam knows enough about his truck, shear strengths of steel, and loads he plans to lift to stay well within safety limits.

[@debrainwasher]

@@ellieprice363 It might surprise you, but bolts are designed to cope with tensile and compression forces and not with shear forces. That's the reason, why mechanical engineers always add dull pins and eventually bushings (both made from hardened steel), whenever bolts are subjected to shear forces. A bolt, pushed through a drilled hole of two concentric pipes can be easily sheared off by a simple force impulse. Since the whole weight of the crane and the load relies on one single rigid telescopic foot in question, any random slip-stick of the load is enough to invite disaster to strike. It's not a coincidence, knifes of parrot-beak bolt cutter tools always follow the very same geometry.

[@chiraz111]

So, no gussets or triangular bracing? Does that mean you're relying on the compressive strength of that cylinder alone? What happens if it gets off-kilter? Would it bend?

[@grantsamara6905]

The compressive strength of that cylinder is immense, and the weakest point in it is a solid bar of steel. I have dropped milling machines onto hoists like that and while the casters flattened, the cylinder was fine.

[@rockkhound943]

Well Adam in case you wondered how you should have done this just read every comment down here ... people are ridiculous with what "they" would do . Glad you built it how you wanted. I like it and it's gave me several ideas for my own . Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@keithcallcut1540]

Hi Adam. Its Keith Callcut hear in the U.K .This crane you have built has got my mind rolling. What a great idea you have come up with. There is one going on my trailer for my next project. Keep up the good work.

[@gjobrod]

Enjoy your videos - always something for all of us mechanical nuts to learn from each other and enjoy!

[@paulwatkins2601]

Running out of wire would definitely cause welding machine problems. awesome series Adam you never cease to amaze me

[@fichambawelby2632]

Great accessory and nice job, Adam. Congrats!

[@jdclark218]

This looks incredibly helpful! Great job engineering it!

[@brosselot1]

I think it's going to work well all of those that have commented that using bolts and not harden pins. I would agree if this was going to be used as a crane to load heavy things that would compress the suspension of the truck but if you are talking 500, 600 pounds it will work great. You designed it and built it and I for one would trust what you build far more than anyone else. And it's alot better truck crane then you can buy. Adam good job.

[@Ddabig40mac]

Awesome! As long as the guy you built it for is happy with it, you're guaranteed to have a repeat customer!

[@k4x4map46]

greta job! didn't think about the actual weight of the upper portion...machining techniques learning a ton!

[@royreynolds108]

In finishing up the crane, a paint strip the width of the hole diameters and in line with the holes painted down to the foot will help line up the holes to insert the pin.

[@kevinray2453]

Adam, Another great job! My most obvious use for this would be to install and remove the 5th wheel hitch from my bed. I'm getting older and lifting it in and out is getting more and more difficult.

[@johnferguson2728]

Nicely done Adam! Thanks for the great Idea.

[@josetesuarez]

Hi Adam, nice video! Your stick welding is very good, I really enjoyed those shots. Hope you discover the cause for your mig welding issues. Loving your content, always!

[@toolman7540]

Anytime I buy a pickup I am building one ,this is awesome, great job Adam.

[@mdouglaswray]

That lift came out GREAT! Nice design and fab.

[@nonameHEF]

Nice series, commin along nicely. Thank you very much.

[@MrJohnBos]

You remind me of a kid under the Christmas Tree. You smile is wide as the Mississippi. Looks and works awesome! Great video.

[@beerbalou3527]

Great work Adam, thanks for your videos en regards from a Belgian fan.

[@clintkay5860]

I think you did a freaking Great! Job with this! Good work man.

[@gusviera3905]

Nice job, Adam! Thanks for showing us the build. Two suggestions that may help: 1. For your turning handle, weld a 2" long sleeve horizontally on the boom just above the level of your pickup bed sidewalls. Use pipe stock with an ID measurement to match the OD of your jack handle. After you jack your load up you can rotate it 360 with your handle and it will clear you pickup bed. You can then onload or offload from the sides as well as the rear. You may also be able to use the existing vertically-mounted sleeve to store your jack handle. 2. You guys think of a name for it, trademark it and market it. The only problem I think you would have is making enough of them, because everybody is going to want one. Again, really nice job. Thanks for sharing it. Happy holidays.

[@flannel872]

A suggestion for the horizontal set screws: incorporate an eye bolt style loop that you can use the jack handle to torque during setup/teardown.

[@jackrichards1863]

I've seen many of these. Many of us have. The geometry and that swivel are pretty sweeet Adam. Nice feature having a handle for the lock n release valve 👍 . It's sturdy and rigid with plenty of lifting grunt. reversible . Everything I anticipated and now I'll copy it where practical. Brilliant buddy. I wont be having any Dodge Ram too soon unfortunately, but one thing at a time eh.

[@ClockwerkIndustries]

So damn cool man! Great job! I just had to rebuild an engine hoist to get my new tormach in the shop, borrowed my buddies hoist and the bottle jack died out, luckily not while lifting. This is a kickass idea though!

[@shortfuse43]

That crane job is as slick as deer guts on a door knob!!! Great job!

[@ricko5123]

I'll send over some custom pieces I made for many many years in my machine and fab shop that will go along with your truck. You're a good guy Adam....

[@lloydjohnston5382]

nice job your work is excellent , great to see someone do great work ,love your videos thanks .

[@tomcarlson3244]

Very nice build. This will be a very good tool to have when you need it.

[@johnkimbrell9485]

Nice really clever idea using parts of a engine lift to make that mini crane I watched you make it begining to now

[@berizzi12]

I like when you are "happy with it" It makes me smile too.

[@unvamp02]

Hey man, a buddy and I are building a firewood processor, lots of dual shield welding so far. He is a fabricator by trade. He's had the same issue with 'worm tracks' during this project. Long story short, leave your electrode further from your work, it will give your flux more time to do it's thing. He's running, 3/4 to 1 inch, no more tracks. AMAZING content by and by, keep it up! Thanks for sharing what you do!

[@jeffanderson6000]

Sweet setup. What a cool project. Great job 👍🏼

[@TMatt007]

For your leverage bar/pipe. You have more torque down lower. The area that you have already ground the blue paint off of would be a perfect spot. What a fun build.

[@gregbetts8057]

nice to have the machines to make it more precise great project , thanks

[@pennypincher6730]

I'm a auto tech and I have a Matco version of the bits you used. I like them I do lift kits often, I use those. Also when I install catalyst converter gaurds to install nutserts works quick clean and the bit doesn't heat up.

[@chrisretired5379]

Great video, sir ! I used a piece of ACME thread for the bottom support leg instead of pin. I also experienced a swing load issue when the truck and pivot assembly were not level to the ground, I should have had a tag line or a worm swing gear at the pivot to slow the swing load.