Tryfan's North Ridge: The Most Dangerous Section [North Tower]

First time on Tryfan's North Ridge? Here's my writeup, including a map and route description: thebaldscrambl...
Watch me tackle the notorious North Tower on Tryfan's North Ridge scramble. Here I explore the main direct route and a side gully.
The North Tower is an accident hotspot as it's steep, and occasionally, those that bailout get lost on the way back down Tryfan's North Ridge as much of the terrain off-route is dangerous and requires rope.
This video isn't instructional but contains information about the main hazards, and I've included plenty of footage so you can see what the terrain looks like.
Watch related videos:
North Ridge of Tryfan: • How to Climb Up The No...
South Ridge of Tryfan: • The Easiest Route Up T...
This route is in the book; Scrambles in Snowdonia by Steve Ashton. Buy on Amazon: amzn.to/3QQAWNb
Filmed on my GoPro 11: amzn.to/3OBb594
I use a DJI Mini 3 Pro drone: amzn.to/3R2CiVd
I'm wearing La Sportiva TX4 footwear: amzn.to/47vJ6QK
My bag is an Osprey Mutant 38: amzn.to/45ztZ73
I'm wearing a Black Diamond Half Dome helmet: amzn.to/45wJo8c
thebaldscrambl...
/ @thebaldscrambler
Disclosure:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from purchases made via links on KZbin and my website.
Disclaimer:
I am not a mountain guide, just an individual with an interest in scrambling and hiking routes. If you try this route, you do so at your own risk; scrambling is a dangerous sport and this video does not contain step-by-step instructions.

[@thebaldscrambler]

Just to add: The gully is steep in the mid and lower sections and shouldn't be attempted unless you have rope, it's not a viable escape route for most people. Take extra care if doing the NR in reverse or backtracking as it's easy to go too far down that gully by mistake.

[@jeffbrumby3442]

The lack of NT footage has always been a problem. This is probably the best NT footage I've seen, well done!

[@thebaldscrambler]

Thank you, I've seen a few people struggle at the NT so I thought a video would at least show folks what to expect should they attempt this route.

[@666666dreamy1]

Good video but the fast forward would've been good to see. Thanks 👍

[@robertgordon5150]

Really useful vid for first timers on Tryfan. Wish I’d seen this before my first attempt.

[@thebaldscrambler]

Thank you. The first time I did Tryfan, I went all the way along the East Traverse Path by mistake, I didn't realise one could go up directly the North Tower or the gully on its side.

[@dzrg89]

Love your videos and wise advice.

[@StephenOverthrow]

Great piece of information for first timers. Done Tryfan many times from all directions. My favourites are up to the cannon for a sit down on the edge, then the east gully with that hanging boulder. Makes for interesting accent especially when the weather turns.

[@shanefanon]

Probably never going to make this hike in the UK but thank you so much for this excellent video presenting me what options are available to keep this a safer and simpler hike.

[@hallstewart]

I generally follow a worn foot width groove starting on the left of the foot of the tower, that trends right. The holds are regular, but you have to ignore the exposure on your right. Years ago I followed the East Traverse all the way until it comes out below just past Adam and Eve, turn right and up a decent ramp to the summit blocks. My favourite easy solo route is Little Gully along Heather Terrasse just past Main gully. It joins Main gully Half way up, walks up to eastern traverse and then you have a choice. A fun choice is straight up, crawl under a chock stone to pop onto the ridge

[@thebaldscrambler]

I know the one you mean. What I like about the North Tower and the ridge in general is the choice of lines, it makes for exciting revisits.

[@paulmcconnell4619]

I think this may have been the hell route I took! What's the name of the gully with the chock stone? North gully?. I remember going around from north tower, getting lost, eventually climbing up one gully hoping I was near summiting only to find a another set of uninviting gully's on my right side - heart sinking!

[@MrZlot]

Awesome video, very informative and super useful. I struggled with the Tower so kinda ended up half hitting it head on then climbing left and into the gully half way through. Love Tryfan, definitely going back

[@charlesrobert9527]

Great advice and useful options detailed. I am sure many would find this a helpful video to watch.

[@stigfloberghagenphotography]

Great video and views. Cheers from Norway 🙂👍

[@ohforfxcksake]

Great video, i spent 8 hours on that beautiful mountain trying the north face. I couldn't get the route right and had to climb down three times, after that my bottle went and i called it a day. I'll give it another go one day

[@paulmcconnell4619]

I was one of those that got scared by North Tower and went left. I think I went past this gully and continued on around to the left and then veered right. I don't know where we ended up ascending (feared for my life along the way that's for sure!), but would love to know, think it may have been North Gully. Was astonishingly relieved to be off this mountain, but definitely look back with excitement. Would like to try again, but would hate myself when I got to this section I'm sure! Really interesting vid.

[@specialblorb]

Nice video explaining. I went up on Sunday in poor visibility. Tried the direct first as I'd previously done that gully. I found it hard to pick a good line so backtracked then took the gully again. I had forgot how precarious that rock at the top looks. There's only a few inches of support on the left but it doesn't seem to have moved all these years!

[@thebaldscrambler]

Had 3 of us on that rock for a photo a few years ago so I think it should be okay for a few more years ;-). Hope you had a great day on one of my fav scrambles.

[@AlexanderBratt]

amazing video!

[@thebaldscrambler]

Thanks!

[@davidpagett7978]

I would agree the direct route looks intimidating. In my opinion, it is less exposed than traversing. The gully. The scrambling on the final section is no more difficult than what you have already climbed . Hey steady head will get you safely to the top .

[@wanderingwhere]

always been a bit wary of trying this route after a lets say an 'interesting' scramble on crib goch but looks very doable having seen it now thankyou, not sure which route i go mind, gully looks less exposed could be a my choice

[@thebaldscrambler]

I can see why unsuspecting folks turn back at the NT. There's only 1 scrambly bit after you step into the gully (step right to avoid the smooth slab or get messy dragging yourself over it) and 1 near the top, the rest is mostly just a steep walk up. All scrambles on Crib Goch are interesting! :-).

[@gretskycompton]

❤❤❤ thank you

[@Slademarkable]

Great video, in his book, The Welsh Peaks, Walter Poucher refered to the gully by-pass. I first went up the North Ridge, in my late teens - attempted the direct ascent and found the initial step too high, had I scouted around, would have probably found an "easier" line, I went via the upper section of Nor Nor Gully, that time and have always gone this way, since. I'd be interested in the continuation of the eastern traverse path, I think this will bring you out at Adam and Eve, though there are a couple of awkward steps, I've read about?? May be a good route for a future video...?

[@thebaldscrambler]

Yes, there is a steep step further along the ETP, making it more difficult than the direct or gully routes. I haven't done that route for a while but it would make for an interesting vid.

[@bcgraham3512]

Route finding on the ascent (not straying onto more technical ground), down-climbing (much more difficult as off-balance facing out, and can't see where you're placing your feet when facing the slope, which is what you have to do when it gets near vertical), and navigation off the summit in poor visibility (dark, or mist) - you need to be competent in these three skills before you tackle a challinging route on any mountain. Too many people rely on their phones and use the mountain rescue service as unpaid guides to come and get them out of a fix, instead of learning their craft. An accident, that's different. Anyone can have a fall.

[@redalert2834]

Was that the top of the NOR NOR gully you used on your second route? Also, I thought the North Tower was that steep section ascending onto the North Peak. I agree there's a section lower down (the one you took on the first route) which is also steep, rocky and might be considered to be a tower of rock,

[@thebaldscrambler]

Yes, the top of Nor Nor Gully on my second route. As far as I know this is the North Tower and from the Ogwen incident reports I've seen, is where lots of poeple get cold feet and turn back, often getting lost in the process. I believe the section you refer to is the North Summit/Peak - it's further up and close to the true summit. There is a scrambling video on KZbin where a couple of guys scramble up the North Summit but refer to it as the North Tower. Also, the wikipedia entry for the North Tower is incorrect and appears to refer to the geography of the North Summit. The BMC correctly refers to the North Tower and how it can be tackled directly and also mentions and warns about the East Traverse Path - www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-scramble-tryfans-north-ridge

[@dimsesneg]

Eaven in the good weather peapol still go in wrong direction.I witness that many times on Tryfan.Is small hill but can be werry dangerous in the bad weather

[@TomHumphries-gk6qf]

Alright Dan, brilliant video buddy!! It’s been along time since I’ve done Tryfan and missed The Cannon when I did achieve it 🤷‍♂️😂 However, now my daughters are getting older have some scrambling in mind!!!! Do you have a rough Grid Reference (GR) to hopefully hit the Cannon when we attempt this Magnificent Mountain ⛰️ thanks Tom

[@thebaldscrambler]

Thank you. I have a What3Words for you, switch it to satelite overlay and you can see the shadow of the cannon pointing to 11o'clock: what3words.com/essay.corrects.keener It's easy to miss as the main "path" is about 20 metres away.

[@TomHumphries-gk6qf]

@@thebaldscrambler Thanks Dan for the info!! However, am a Gen X’er 😂 What3words and thought you was telling me to do one 🤷‍♂️😂👍 now after googling it’s a location thingy!! Still not sure what to do though 😂

[@thebaldscrambler]

@@TomHumphries-gk6qf lol : -) SH 66529 59789 is the Cannon. All the best.

[@composedlight6850]

This is what makes Tryfan the best mountian in the Snowdan range, for none climbers .

[@thebaldscrambler]

Agreed, lovely section and route overall.

[@DannyDrakey]

Please do one of dextors gully and sinister gully great video

[@don1estelle]

I walked up Tryfan from the A5 clockwise but couldn't climb the last bit because I'm to Short to clamber up the Huge square rocks my friend managed it where did I go wrong

[@TG-pd3ft]

The north tower has a strange sort of dirty polish all over it which - to me - makes it unpleasant. Best bet is to drop off the west side from the platform beneath and then come back up Notch Arete 😏

[@thebaldscrambler]

Any excuse to get on NA ;-).

[@chrisacorn2559]

Hey leave the Polish alone, they are nice clean people!!🤣😂🤣

[@thebaldscrambler]

Your comment caused KZbin to censor and remove the comment above. The words "dirty polish" were okay until you referred to "Polish" as "clean people" then it triggered the censor. Welcome to China folks. Comment whitelisted and approved. @@chrisacorn2559

[@chrisacorn2559]

@@thebaldscramblerSorry, no offence intended, just thought it was a funny play on words!

[@thebaldscrambler]

No offence taken, just surprised at YTs censorship. ​@@chrisacorn2559

[@robmckinley5475]

Looks to me like u went a bit to far left on the first ascent. I've done it many times and I'm sure I attack it at the front which tops out right on the top of the tower. I maybe wrong as it wasn't clear where u started

[@thebaldscrambler]

Can go straight up the middle or a diagonal line starting slightly left and finishing slightly right of the top on the plateau, which at the time was handy place for landing a drone with wind warnings blaring out ;-), both lines are close to each other, grade 1 with lots of worn rock to follow etc. Purpose of the vid is to show the general direction, so folks don't get lost on the ETP or go back down NR and onto the steep Milestone area, seems to be an ongoing issue, leading to callouts.

[@lessismore83009]

Excellent video, exactly where I got to!😂 personally I would find the gulley better due to less exposure. (Next attempt!) Also, what settings are you using for your drone? That moving footage is crystal clear.

[@thebaldscrambler]

I think the biggest risk is doing the North Ridge in reverse and going too far down that gully by mistake, it's really steep down there. I was flying the drone manually and had the camera settings to auto at 30fps4K. I think the footage looks good because it was filmed near sunset when the light was soft :-).

[@lessismore83009]

@@thebaldscrambler yeah, I will have another attempt next year! Be better if it's clagged in and I can't see too far😂 Great vid thanks

[@robmckinley5475]

U were off route on the north tower. U should tackle it head on, right at the front.

[@user-kl5pf3ru8t]

Thank you ❤