Tune-Up Tips for Mid to High End Rolling Stock!

Fix them up. Check out how some simple tricks and some time can get your trains running better!!
How to update to Kadee couplers
How to update Roundhouse rolling stock to Kadee
How to update Athearn to Kadee's
How to install metal axels
How to make your cars run better
How to adjust Kadee couplers
How to tune trucks on HO rolling stock
How to stop derails on model railroads
How to update / repair Athearn Blue Box
#classicmodeltrains
E-mail me at: [e-mail]
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Mailing Address: Classic Model Trains
1507 Old Hardin Road
Billings, Mt. 59101
@classicmodeltrains
My second channel mentioned link below.
@RonsClassicRVs

[@w.rustylane5650]

I spent nearly $400.00 on replacing plastic wheel sets with Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. I cut off all the talgo truck couplers and installed Kaydee body mounted couplers. I did this for over 80 pieces of rolling stock and weathered them as I went. Now when I purchase rolling stock I try to ensure that I buy ones with body mounted Kaydee's and metal wheel sets. Cheers from eastern TN

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! Ive got about the same amount of $$$ doing a bunch of mine also :-)

[@4everdc302]

Note:I keep 6 or so"conversion cars" handy. Knuckle couplers on one end&hornhooks on the other🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋

[@classicmodeltrains]

I only have 2. They need to go thru the "tune up" process as well. There a little light.

[@4everdc302]

@@classicmodeltrains 👨‍🔧🚂🚃🚃🚃🪛 👍👍👍

[@kimrok1]

Congratulations! It is so relaxing when the trains run with out going on the ground.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I hate sudden de-acceleration syndrome :-)

[@PirateChiefPC1]

Great Video. Excellent presentation.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you kindly!

[@RayBoebel]

Nicely done Ron! One caveat to car weight I found: when running pre-2000 AHM, LL, Bachmann etc locos, if you weigh the rolling stock to standard, you may find that the loco wont pull as many cars. I'm in the process of "modifying" the weight standard because none of my stuff will ever leave the basement. Mine will be close to NMRA, but not exact. Cool tip on the tank car! Never thought of that! Oh, it was great having you on the show this past Sunday!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Ray. Yeah I know the dept store locos cant pull long trains that are weighted. They were engineered to pull 9 or less. Entry level train sets. I do love them, but older mid grade loco's got alot of grunt to them. Guess I own a mix of both worlds. :-). Im rewatching the show finally so I can read all the comments.

[@animalyze7120]

The weights will cause that true enough, but the benefit of the cars not bouncing and wobbling as much makes up for it I feel. The good thing is now you have to create multi engine consists which can be interesting. Also save those sintered metal wheels, many folks switch their engines to the fancy Nickle silver wheels and those have better conductivity but far less grip than the Sintered sets which are now getting harder to find. Its always a trade off but fun to experiment.

[@animalyze7120]

@@classicmodeltrains We used to have train pull contests, my friends and I had many family members who had built layouts and many had their favorite engine brands. The most common amongst them was Athearn so I have a huge Bias for them. The very first "High grade" as I called it back then in the 70s was an Athearn F7 unit and an unpowered B unit. Total night and day for my basement table layout and I wasted no time putting a motor in that B unit. The F7 then didn't have the extra weight so we had to use fishing weights. My friends were jealous cause I could pull all 6 sets of rolling stock, and theirs could barely pull half that lol.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@animalyze7120 Sounds like you were King of the block with that extra powered B !!

[@ecidaho]

Great video again!! Looking forward to the next video!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks again!

[@russcrooker2223]

Thanks for sharing. Your video was very helpful. I now can do all my old cars.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad I could help :-)

[@toddcogswell9470]

Your videos are so informative. Thank you so much. I appreciate it.

[@classicmodeltrains]

You are so welcome!

[@regisbraga3833]

Superb video! A real pratic easy-to-follow rules to achieve good performance on railroad cars. Thanks for showing us!

[@classicmodeltrains]

You are welcome!

[@rickestabrook4987]

Great Video Ron. Very helpful. You da man.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Rick!!

[@jackoesterlejr.3454]

I love this video & your layout! Nice job! Thank You! MoPac Jack Kirkwood, Missouri STL

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you very much! Ron up here in Billings, Mt.

[@AEStudt]

Enjoyed this video I'm in the process of upgrading my rolling stock

[@classicmodeltrains]

Right on!

[@billclark81]

Once again, great video

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you Sir

[@Tipman2OOO]

Looking forward to your video on "low end" car tune ups. Subscribed and awaiting the upload. Thanks for the videos.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the sub! Video in production

[@johnbanicki7232]

Another great video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it :-)

[@rwheatley0206]

Awesome tips my friend.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching!

[@chiparooo]

Good video and great advice! Thanks for sharing!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad it was helpful!

[@vhoward1122]

Thanks for a clear easy to understand process for fixing those troublesome cars. I'm just getting started. So now I won't hesitate getting some less expensive cars.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad to help

[@jasonmarkum171]

Great informational vid, didn't even know those kadee pliers existed, neat!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad I could help with some cool info :-)

[@TrainDetailsbyGuss]

Thanks for the information, very helpful.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching and commenting :-)

[@NJEsperantist]

Ron, I have long had a board with track on it for testing coupler heights, but I never, NEVER thought to scale it out, (so to speak,) for car measurements/weights! Sir, you are a genius and I enjoy your videos enormously! There's always something to learn.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you for your compliments!!

[@Hyrev1]

Now that was informative and very helpful! I've just been collecting rolling stock til I actually get started on a layout. Now I can give them the once over and avoid any potential headaches, wondering "What the heck?!". Thanks Ron! Now I gotta go buy a couple more cars!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Ohh.....Oooh.... I wanna go and buy a couple more cars too. Swing by and get me :-). Glad you enjoyed the video

[@Xtream__Attitude]

Great video as always

[@classicmodeltrains]

Appreciate that

[@ublk94gt]

Love it buddy. Always nice to learn new ways of doing stuff. Great idea with the test track marked in inches. Learn something new every day. Keep rocking the vids. If you ever get to Northwestern NJ. Look me up we can have a beer and I can show you my layout. PS. Love your coveralls and hat. Will be copying you soon LOl.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it. Beers and layout tours in NJ. would be very cool! :-)

[@johnramirez5996]

Great video. I have 5 of that athearn SD-45 GM emd. Had 1 drive shaft hang up melted the housing on 1 brush. Will get New setup for when I am all caught up. Lol

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks!

[@irenecraggs6123]

thank you i learnt something today i never new the metal wheels had bushings in one side thanks for the video looking forward to the next one about the cheaper cars

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad to help

[@davidcurtis5398]

learnt ??????????????

[@morganhay859]

This was very helpful and detailed for me. Now I just have to have the patience to do this for a few hundred cars

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad it helped, upgrade 5 a day a few times a week and you will have them all whooped into shape :-)

[@HaroldAlexis-bb8sd]

Thanking you for this video. I have had enough of the older model trains with these annoying plastic wheels. I'll be purchasing the WALTHERS wheel kits in 33'as shown. As an old schooler with Kadee couplers, I use 5, & 20 series as many as available. My alternative for the Kadee fiber washers i went to a few of my 99 cent stores & bought assortment hobby washers in metal especially for Athearn freight trains. I also use Dubro metal washers from the model car scenes. Always enjoy watching your videos. 👍🎥

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for your kind words Harold and a few good tips as well :-)

[@joeraderblackrockcentralrr]

as always great tips Ron

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@CannonCountry]

"Three ✌ key issues" 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 That's some old monte python humor right there

[@classicmodeltrains]

Monte Python.....good stuff!

[@raysrails2164]

Fun to watch!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks!

[@P61guy61]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad it was helpful!

[@theplumber33]

Looks great! I like the tire weights. Awesome live stream Sunday. I found a ahm spirit of 76 loco. Fixed it. After your 4th weekend I’ve been looking hard. Thanks for the videos

[@billfusionenterprise]

you should see what i found being used, most interesting old engine motors, they are not hooked up , just there for wieght

[@theplumber33]

@@billfusionenterprise that is Interesting.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks. Glad you found a loco you wanted :-)

[@davidcurtis5398]

I have gotten the weights from the tire store I use, They give them to me after they take them off of old tires. Just clean them up and use double stick tape. Weight for free!!!!!

[@13thBear]

Another fine episode, Ron. I learned a new thing from you about weighting tanker cars with bb’s and tape. Good suggestion. I’m still experimenting with weighting open empty hopper and gondola cars. I want them to retain the “look” of an empty car but have the proper weight in them whether empty or full. Maybe lead shot might work, if I can find true “lead”shot. Gunners use steel shot to prevent lead contamination so I don’t know if I can still buy lead shot anywhere. Looking forward to your next video on tuning up entry level cars. Like you, I have a bunch and want to up-grade them for better and more consistent service. Be seeing you!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 13th. The next vid is in pre-production as I type this.

[@toycarcollector]

Super information, thanks! Then when watching your "long train runnin" it occurred to me that you should model the Tehachapi Loop!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching. Yup, a lot of fellers model that loop :-)

[@1hfismrm]

Thank you for your channel! I'm fairly new to model trains, so I'm learning a lot of cool tips from you! I'm sorry if this has already been posted. I use pennies for adding weight. I super glue them in stacks or singles, which ever makes more sense. Each penny weighs one tenth of an ounce, so 10 cents per ounce. That's about 1/3 the cost of stick on weights, plus you can adjust the weight .1 of an ounce at a time.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching and commenting. Yup a few Fellers mention the penny thing. If it works sounds like a good idea to me

[@raybertelsen6090]

Nice job on the explanation Rob,I have a friend I am trying to build a layout for and they are finally coming around on why to tune cars, they havent grasped all the stuff that goes into it yet but working on teaching them, I told them just put them in a box if they derail repeatedly and I will look at them, I now have about 30 to go thru but its all good, I just want it to run correctly for them

[@classicmodeltrains]

Pretty cool deal they have a buddy that can tune up there cars for them!! Very nice of you :-)

[@raybertelsen6090]

@@classicmodeltrains Thanks

[@patrickwines9551]

There is also over/ under shank couplers to deal with bigger offsets. On some hoppers/tanks the underside of the frame and trucks are hollow, great place to add metal rod, or "lead" putty.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup. I didnt want to cloud the process. Over / under shanks is in car tuning 201 :-D Never heard of lead putty. They sure had great stuff back in the day!!

[@13thBear]

Lead putty? Where do you buy lead putty?

[@robinthurston3382]

I've tested my cars in different consist configurations to see if they will derail. Also the reverse test is interesting along with coupler slack. Measuring coupler slack on a long train is fun. It all adds up. When i assemble a train, I slack the cars so when the power units pull forward it roars the train like the wave at the ball game lol.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Right on!!

[@MygrandpasTrain]

As usual, very helpful tutorial, I've got most of the tools for weighting the cars just need to check their weights. You need to add 10 more cars and you will break my record of 32 cars, But mine are all completely un-tuned and using K horn couplers on a flat layout. Pulling 23 cars up the grade with that much ease is definitely impressive!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Tim. I was impressed how that SD-45 could pull. I need to make a fish weighing scale car to see how much pounds of rolling friction loco's can pull. 32 cars untuned and horn hooks is an impressive pull!!

[@davidcurtis5398]

There is a modeler here in my town that can pull 100 coal cars with his set up. He has a layout where you can see the entire train at one time on a straight section of track. And yes, he is quite well off money wie.

[@davidcurtis5398]

When I put any weights in my cars, and I do have them all at the correct weight I will center the weights on the trucks and not in the middle of the car. I completely solved the coupler trip pin problem. I took them off. The cars look so much better with out them.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup. Ive heard of a lot of Fellers cutting off the trip pins

[@fleischmann_rowa_roco_ho]

Thank you for explaining the Kadee Couplers to a Fleischmann guy! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad to help

[@_mdh_1998]

Excellent video describing a somewhat interesting subject. Did you know most people get out of the hobby, due in part of rolling stock not operating correctly and causing so much hassle for them. Lots of individuals I have talked to say that blue box kits are inferior, and anything after 2000-present day is the way to go. And are willing to pay the price difference for a few hours worth of work! I have needed to do this to all my cars as well, a lot of them are as built but when I was able to work on them like this these cars are flawless and never gave me much trouble. Trackwork is a whole other can of worms and that would be a great video to see in the future! Again, great video Ron and looking forward to seeing more of your stuff!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Marc, I can see the frustration guys would have with poor car performance. I was suffering with that myself. It takes a lot of practice in the skills to run a model railroad, and enjoy in also. :-) I would rather tune up the old stuff and put $20 worth of wheels and couplers, than drop $50 on a new one. Ive got the time, plus it is quite relaxing tinkering on them.

[@davidcurtis5398]

All my rolling stock is from the "Blue Box" kits. Bringing them up to today's standards is what is fun and I will never pay the money that they want for new cars at today's prices. Never!!!!! I have never paid over $9 for any cars...

[@bobriddle6068]

Thank you

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hope it was helpful :-)

[@andrebankston-ct6ws]

Very good video and tips Ron. I just getting back in the hobby, don't understand why the Companies I spend decent money for rolling stock, make sure everything is up to par according to the NMRA standards.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you and welcome back!! Mass produced stuff will always have variants compared to someone who invests the time to tune it themselves.

[@billfusionenterprise]

Neat tool to use with truck tuner is the wheel pliers which help spread the trucks easier (micromark catalog)

[@classicmodeltrains]

I seen that, amazon has one on there. I'm thinking I need one in my tool collection :-)

[@ProspectorsGhost]

Question ? - In reference to installing the insulated bushings upon the same side. - If you had a rolling stock car (such as a passenger car or baggage car etc.), and you wanted to install something such as lights inside that car, wouldn't you install the insulated bushings upon oposite sides instead of on the same side so that the electrical power would flow from one track (positive) up through the electrical device being powered and then travel back down again to the other track (negative), in order to complete the electrical circuit and get the lights to work ? - Remember that the filiment in the lights is the resistance needed to eliminate any short circuit. Just Curious. But. Hey great video, I learned a lot. Thanks for producing and sharing.

[@classicmodeltrains]

You are correct Sir. Plus of course you have to have electrical pickups on the trucks to move the juice along to the lightbulb.

[@ProspectorsGhost]

@@classicmodeltrains You are absolutely true on that part too Sir. - Thank You.

[@billfusionenterprise]

FYI, great maintence time saving tip, mark your trouble cars, whenb they get marked 3 times ( 5 if busy) take off layout and do the tuning. When you have a bunch of cars but little time this helps to solves problems (local RR club does this)

[@classicmodeltrains]

That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing :-)

[@Zebrails]

13:20 Take a black felt and coat the entire trip-pin/air hose, then, take a pliers and bite-spin the very end of it so it resembles metal glad-hand tips. Easy cheat, and it looks good! Washers: sometimes, a paper hole punch can be used to to punch paper/card board, then drill the hole in the middle to fit the "king pin" on the chassis. John

[@classicmodeltrains]

Couple of great idea's! Thanks John :-)

[@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561]

Ron, when I saw you on Ray's STS show, then looked at your YT channel. I almost thought it was two different people. Now, with your whiskers trimmed. You look like the guy on Ray's show. I have tons, well a lot of suggestions for smoothing operating trains. But enjoying your show so I'll keep quiet.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Lynn, My little Lady suggested to me the beard thing was not "working". Made me look old she says. I wanna keep her happy so I used some of my train money for a shave :-)

[@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561]

@@classicmodeltrains Honestly, it looks Good and she's right. IF you haven't seen my "Stash", you should, sort of my Trade Mark. And it's my wife's idea.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561 is it a handle bar stash? I’ve tried to do that. Can’t find stash wax worth a darn.

[@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561]

@@classicmodeltrains It started as a Handlebar, but as it got longer and longer, and the morning after "Curled down" Wife said, let it grow and see what happens. Last time I straighten it and measured. Was over a foot long. Would be longer, but we trim the ends. I use "Schwarzkopf got2b glued" I wrap it around a finger after applying the "glue" and hold in place with Cloths pins. 15 to 30 mins later, remove the clothes pins and there you are. Where can I send you a picture?

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561 I have a Facebook page classic model trains. From there you can message me thru Facebook messenger. Sounds like a pretty sweet STACH!

[@duhrailed]

Nice demo loco, your tips are great Even for an old fart like me in the hobby 50 years

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!

[@gunslingerfromwish4656]

Almost at 1k!!!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Closer every day :-)

[@gunslingerfromwish4656]

@@classicmodeltrains Congrats you did it!!

[@reilleylawrence7248]

I don't use plastic trucks, period. I have mostly Central Valley and some Kadees. Can't beat quality trucks. The springs actually help the car ride better when properly weighted.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I hear ya!

[@christopherbarks534]

One note: add weight AFTER swapping out plastic wheels for metal ones, as the latter weigh more.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I completely agree.

[@jamesfeussner3606]

the test layout track plan is from the book building a ho scale layout that grows or also known as building the jerome and southwestern layout it appeared in model railroader

[@jamesfeussner3606]

by the way only the sceanery and structures where changed to protect the innocent

[@classicmodeltrains]

I'm not sure what your referencing here. Are you mentioning my track plan? I assure you, it flowed out of my head and changed quite a bit before I ended with whats on screen.

[@NKPgator]

Now this is indeed a subject that may come down to doing it the way you want on your railroad. I have my personal preferences as many do. I do not agree that every train car should use metal wheels as it does add 3/4 of an ounce to cars that might be fine at factory weight. I like to run steam, and steam does not like weight at all, so, in some cases I have lightened cars as much as I can, I have a 50 car twin bay coal train that the whimpiest locomotive can pull because I even removed the metal Kaydee's in favour of the plastic with metal knuckle spring versions. Plastic wheels on metal axles set at 14.5 mm will run on even hand laid (very picky) trackwork. There is tons of tricks I've learned. Metal axles on metal trucks are like plastic on plastic, it creates unwanted friction, metal axles in plastic trucks is the best in my opinion and yes another reason I don't like metal wheels, they have plastic axles. I will always say, if it works good, keep doing it, but do experiement a bit. Running long trains without derailment is the part I do like, and running with steam that way, even better............ Good Stuff

[@classicmodeltrains]

Good evening Eric. Thanks for taking the time and sharing some great idea's. This hobby has lots of room for different sides and solutions to common problems. A 50 car train, That sounds awesome in my book!! :-)

[@JimMyrhum-ht6vx]

Saw layout at the end of video -- Question is - what per-cent are those grades? where did you get the track plan from or was it just free-lanced?? am in the beginning stages of planning a larger layout, and collecting great ideas.

[@classicmodeltrains]

The grade is just a touch over 2%. 1/4 inch rise per foot of run. The layout came from my mind. A neighbor kid had one sorta like that when I was younger, I just made it a bit longer / larger.

[@jamesworley9172]

Enjoyed the video. I saw your Volt and amp meter setup and would like to do the same, but not sure what to get, and how big they are. Would be a great help if you could give me some direction. Thanks

[@classicmodeltrains]

here is the link to the video where I showed how I set them gauges up. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnmrl6tshL-laK8

[@jamesworley9172]

Thank you so much, was a great help.@@classicmodeltrains

[@larryjanson4011]

i use shot for a shotgun. makes it easy to be closer to exact weight and can place the same weight over each truck. as well as “hide” it as needed. . aka: empty flat car.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the great idea!!

[@caboosech]

I use pennies in my freight cars five of them for each car and it gives it an even weight in the big difference in performance especially with the old horn hook horn hook couplers on the trucks there and there's a tool you can buy where you could dig out all the crap out of the journal boxes on the the trucks there for the freight cars that it works on passenger cars too I highly recommend as I said the pennies for weight it's a lot better than lead and safer

[@classicmodeltrains]

Ive heard about guys doing that. Lot cheaper than buying weights. Thanks for sharing :-)

[@regisbraga3833]

Bottom line, the Federal Reserve is subsidizing the model railroaders…🤣🤣🤣

[@davidcurtis5398]

@@classicmodeltrains I get my weights from the tire store. They give me the old weights from tires and all I have to do is to clean them up and use double stick tape or glue.

[@robertcornelius3514]

7:30 It would seem that train clubs have a preference of which side the bushing needs to be on. Yes/No?

[@classicmodeltrains]

The bushings to isolate the wheels from each other all have to be on the same side of the car or it will short out the track . I have never heard of a club requiring that they all be specifically on one side or the other but it would not surprise me if some do. The guys that take care of the electronics of the club's layout would be a better source than me.

[@pmsteamrailroading]

Here’s a tip. A penny is a very inexpensive weight. If you compare the price of auto weights, it’s way less expensive to use a stack of pennies glued together. (If memory serves it is 12 cents per ounce. Stick on lead weights are 66 cents per once)

[@classicmodeltrains]

Great idea! I hear a lot of Fellers did that back in the day

[@robertcornelius3514]

Do you find that O scale cars need weights added too?

[@classicmodeltrains]

The new stuff yes, but the post war usually have a "heft" to them from the factory

[@bernadettegarbers9552]

lm curious about something Do you know how many companies made HO scale tow dom tank car...... Lionel mad them in O. scale.. but not quite too scale.......

[@classicmodeltrains]

I'm not really sure what your asking.

[@jebbohanan2626]

Another way to help stop derailment. Make sure your lightest cars are at the end of the train. But, there are just going to be some cars that just need fixing and tuning no matter what else you do.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup!

[@waltergodwin5220]

The REAL test after tuning railcars is not pulling but rather pushing the railcars. It's one thing with couplers in tension but quite another when shoving cars with couplers in compression. If your railcars operate in either direction, then they're ready for operations.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds good to me!!

[@bradwb6192]

I was wondering about the attention you might have been giving your rolling stock. However, you left out flat cars. Intentional???

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello MC, My flat cars are all tuned up, but I wanted loads on them for weight. I need to make "something". Just pushed for time.

[@larrybaughman618]

🤠🖐🚂

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@BillyBanana75]

So I got these and installed them today and I went from not have a derailing problem to HAVING a derailing problem.... Have you ever experienced that? I think the plastic wheels created more friction and kept the cars from derailing. Now it seems with less friction the wheels pop right out off the track. I never bothered to weight my cars unless they need it due to derailing and I will try that next, but I went from being able to run the trains, not just getting frustrated. 🤦

[@classicmodeltrains]

I'm sorry to hear this. The first thing that comes to mind is did you use the truck tuner to open up the trucks for the new metal wheels axle to spin very freely in? What brand of metal wheel sets are you using? The old plastic wheels might have a larger flange compared to the new metal ones. Large flanges help keep the cars on the rails if the rails are not laid "really good". Having the cars weigh properly is a tricky subject. Some guys swear by it, some guys swear at it. Personally I think it's important to have cars to NMRA specs and put heavier ones at the front and lighter ones at the back. This video has a sister video called "tune up that cheap rolling stock. Less than $8.00...." Perhaps that one might have an Idea I did not discuss in this video.

[@BillyBanana75]

@@classicmodeltrains yup I watched both of those videos. I am using the same wheels as you used, Walthers 920-2304. I think my track is just not good. It definitely has too much rise on a short length of track going up 3 inches in maybe a 24" span. I just thought the metal wheels would make things easier but I think they just exaggerate my crappy track. I would attach a photo but no way to do that here. It was just something I made to go under the tree. It looks nice but for my first time I think I made a lot of mistakes. Thanks for your help!

[@BillyBanana75]

Bu the way, I did use the truck tuner

[@SilverDragon33Productions]

Is there a difference between the couplers 146, 143, 148 etc?

[@classicmodeltrains]

#143 are whisker shorts, #148 are whisker standard, and #146 are whisker long

[@SilverDragon33Productions]

@@classicmodeltrains Thanks

[@billfusionenterprise]

FYI; if you put heabiest cars up front and lighter ones towards the rear you can also prevent fall over,,just like the real railroad do

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Bill, I should have said that in the video, I had my train cars lined up like that, just forgot to mention. Thanks for mentioning that :-)

[@godlugner5327]

0:29 *THREE KEY ISSUES* >Holds up two fingers

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@markwilliams2620]

2:37. I don't understand feeling of dread and meh. I hope the crew is OK.....but I was expecting CSX on the loco.

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@frankmarkovcijr5459]

On my o Gauge Railroad ilovetorun whole trains of diecast cars when a car is like 5 lb and you have 10 of them plus a caboose you know that locomotive is working. I wish more diesel locomotives were diecast shells instead of plastic. Very few of us have the space for Museum size layout. A dozen or so Freight cars is all it can handle. Of course you run all the diecast cars in a mixed train and the front and the lighter car taken get back towards the caboose. I could not believe that someone would pay more for a classic car then what you could pay for for a diecast car. I got a dozen of the gondola bank cards that Kaline put out they have a slot that you can put coins in in the top of the cover of the die-cast gandola they were only ten bucks a piece never seen a bargain like that again

[@classicmodeltrains]

I have yet to run into a die cast car. a few loco's of course.

[@frankmarkovcijr5459]

@@classicmodeltrains you should try to hunt some up. I'm sure you can probably find some at some train shows I would go through some old issues of classic toy trains and call up some of the advertiser see if they still have anything.

[@ufolive1]

id like to donate some old blue box gp35s and sd9s

[@classicmodeltrains]

That would be very nice! I have my P.O. Box listed in the description of all the video's :-)

[@frankmarkovcijr5459]

Everybody went to plastic rolling stock because it was cheaper but then it was true like to be reliable on the track so it had to be weighted down where is if it was diecast there would be no problem with a tracking properly if all of the HO scale cars were diecast your engine would have to have a good motor to be able to pull them but on a 4 by 8 layout you could only have so many cars in the train before the Caboose is right in front of the locomotive. They start plastic with being trendy and modern now plastic just screams cheap. The longer you stay in the hobby the higher your standards get and stuff that was acceptable when you first started is not acceptable anymore

[@classicmodeltrains]

To some people they grow out of there starter stuff. Some people enjoy it forever

[@crsrdash-840b5]

There is one important (and missed detail) that people don't seem to get. Bachmann, Athearn, IHC, Life Like, and a few others have the wrong trucks on most of their cars and the wrong wheel size. It might not seem like a big deal until you realized why railroads uses 33" and 36" wheels for 70-ton and 100-ton freight cars. Even in model scale, when in motion the 33 turn fast resulting in the car motion being slower. With 36 they turn slower, but the car will more faster. The style of trucks represents how much a freight car can carry so the proper trucks are important. Bachmann is the worst as they even put 50-ton trucks on hoppers that should be 100-tons - ouch! Athearn BB put 33 wheels and 70 ton trucks ON EVERYTHING! that so so wrong!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup. A lot of details are left off of entry level rolling stock.

[@yardmaster67]

Stop using a Norfolk Southern locomotive.....ha ha ha

[@classicmodeltrains]

He He :-)

[@user-pu7iu3qo5g]

Great vid HO looks 100 easier than my N scakle haha

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 👍

[@modularsynthguy6694]

I added you, on Facebook!😀

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks :-)

[@tazsnuts99]

I spent close 1,000 on wheels to convert all my cars years ago

[@classicmodeltrains]

I hear that! I think I'm in 5 to 6 hundy's with my adventures :-)

[@az8theist977]

How to adjust a coupler that's TOO HIGH?? Inquiring minds want to know......

[@classicmodeltrains]

If there body mounted you put a shim in between the body and the coupler draft box

[@az8theist977]

@@classicmodeltrains The car has molded in draft boxes. Would the best approach be to file down the molded in box and then mount the shim and a new draft gear box?

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@az8theist977 yes Sir, that’s what I would do :-)