Turbo Repeat Sensor HDI, TDCI

Issue with my turbo part working and coming up with fault code P2562 turbo repeat sensor. removed the old one and replaced with and other to find it was faulty as you can see the spring is broke inside just watch were you buy these from as you may find it will work for a few days and stop like mine I have another in place and its working fine, fingers crossed!

[@niekasniekas2614]

Hi,may i ask about mazda becouse i didnt find in any forum. Mazda 3 136kw 2.2l Error p2565 Turbo charger boost control position sensor A circuit high. When this error appear the turbo gone and losing power. Btw the sensor is same as yours.

[@Mrtizss]

Hi did you find the sensor and fixed the problem, i have the same 136kw 2.2 engine in my mazda 6 and its got same peoblem and code

[@niekasniekas2614]

@@Mrtizss Hi,I changed the sensor,but it didn't fixed the problem.I just noticed if I don't hit accelerator hard (under 2k rpm) I don't get that fault and can drive normal.I don't know where is problem I don't want to remove turbo only just to check becouse no smoke ,oil or etc.

[@tarakai2]

Hi Steve. I have a 2005 407 Hdi 136 with no boost. I have cleaned and replaced filters on the two dozer electro valves at the Alternator but still without boost. Do you have any techniques for gaining more room with your hands down the back of the engine to replace the repeat sensor and the turbo electro valve ? as these will be the next things to check. I guess I could undo the engine mounts and lift the engine forward 30-50mm for more access

[@CM-1986]

Hi, the turbo electro valve is on the top of the engine at the rear very simple to get at on a 407 it should be a brown valve sometimes it's black if it's been replaced the two valves on the front are for the doser valves controlling the boost and smoother shut off on the engine. I wouldn't change the repeat sensor unless you have a fault code for it I would be looking at the sensors first. Make sure you put the pipes in the right order on the valves vac to vacuum system and out to the auxiliary ie turbo or dosers what ever you have removed or testing it's very easy to get these messed up.

[@stevesmith2875]

On the Peugeot 307 2lt HDI, does the sensor need to be shimmed? Peugeot only sell the complete Vacuum and sensor assemble and this is NO longer a part they carry. I have a sensor off a wrecked motor and was able to free it up and test it it works fine, But been told 12 hours labour to change this sensor.

[@CM-1986]

Hi Steve, if you want to change the whole unit it will take you a few hours but you can't just swap the unit over as it needs to be recalibrated to work with the actuator arm and variable veins on the turbo unless you have all that equipment you stuck, you have two options replace the whole turbocharger unit that has been setup with the wastegate as it's a in and out job it will still take a few hours to get it done. The other way is replaced the sensor that should take you 30mins to do, remove the wipers arms and remove the top trim from around the bottom of the windscreen and you will have more access to undo the 3 star head screws you need to make sure you get a good fitment for the screws as they are not the best screws. You can pick the sensor on eBay just don't buy a cheap sensor as this can cause more problems.

[@C0b0ld]

Where can I buy this sensor? I think I have the same issue with my mk2 2006 2.0tdci ford focus. It's made with the same motor like Peugeot 2.0hdi. From 1750 rpm, to 2250 rpm the turbo boost is laggy, than boosting good, than also sometimes laggy,not equal the boosting. Where can I find this part? Thanks

[@CM-1986]

It might not be this sensor you would need to get the codes read on your car as you don't want to replace parts that are not faulty, the MAF sensor could be your issue as this would give you lack of boost also the boost solenoid that controls the turbo wastegate could be a fault as they get weak over time. Just don't be swapping parts unless you have codes that point to this sensor. If you have no engine light on your car I would be looking at boost solenoid that controls the turbo first.

[@nockah6859]

hey C M thanks for the very helpful tips on these motors. also i have 2.0 hdi but i have no fault codes at all but car is surging under light acceleration. ive cleaned egr physically removed and cleaned , cleaned intake manifold and head physically removed and cleaned. checked fuel pressure with scan tool all ok. im stuck and dont know what i should look for next and this videos is telling me maybe i should check my turbo repeat sensor?? but im thinking if this is the culprit it should throw me a fault code shouldnt it?

[@CM-1986]

Hi, if your not getting any fault codes it's a hard one but it's not uncommon to still have a issue with no codes, the turbo repeat sensor will bring a code up as the ECU would need to check this sensor with the map sensor with the solenoid that controls the turbo wastegate if it sees it's not giving data back it will give you a code. Live data here would be ideal as it might be your solenoid valve is getting weak and not performing as it should. You don't say what your engine code is for the 2.0 HDi if you don't know a year and model would help before I can advise you on other things to check over if you can provide these that would be great.

[@nockah6859]

@@CM-1986 thank you for quick response my engine is RHR DW10BTE. ive done some research and lot of the forum guys telling me get egr restrictor plate with 8mm hole in it?

[@CM-1986]

On the RHR engine blocking the EGR doesn't really show a fault code so am not sure why you would need one with a 8mm hole in the center the ford and some Volvo engines would need this as they use a different map to the Peugeot and Citroen. I have a feeling it could be a lazy solenoid valve or the doser flaps in the intake yours will have two this would give you a surge if it's sticky look round the engine and if you see oil round the doser flaps I would inspect them I have changed some can you get any live data? Thanks.

[@nockah6859]

thanks heaps my friend so just to test things ive made dummy egr plate with 8mm hole and it has removed the surging. i didnt know this engine can be compeletly block off as i assume its euro 5 engine? also do you know the rough fuel compsumtion on these engines? im getting about 720km on full tank 60L tank which is about 9.6l/100km i think whichi is very high.@@CM-1986

[@CM-1986]

@@nockah6859 mine was RHR and it was giving me around 49/53mpg on a long run, i would maybe look at the filters and the state of the DPF/FAP filter if you have them installed as i had mine removed and remapped, injectors/ map/ maf ect would make your car drink fuel injectors never really give you fault codes unless its stuck open or closed a leak off test would be a good start, for the 8mm hole and removed the surging makes me wonder if your car has a different map so you cant have it blocked off fully so it needs to bypass some air/mixure into the system so you cant fool it? i had mine blocked off fully and no issues and others i know was the same so its a new one for me as any of the ford/volvo engines would flag up a code or reduce power when it was blocked off so when they installed a hole it would bypass you getting a code.

[@realMasterYoda]

Hi, I hvae P1496, P1497 and P11 AA on Peugeot 508, 2.0, 163, 2013. I am thinking to change this part (I can find only this one) or I should change also the actuator (I can also find the full set). The symptoms are red light on the dashboard, and cruise control off (speed limiter too) till the next start of the car. In general, the car works fine, however, a bit laggy and not so responsive. Also, I got a recommendation from a mechanic this might be causing problems. P.S (I have changed also the vacuum solenoid and there was a significant improvement). So should I change only this part or the entire set - together with the actuator. Thank you.

[@CM-1986]

Hi could you send me the engine code as am not sure on them mine was the RHR version that used this shared with Ford and Volvo ect. Am thinking yours could be the early blueHDi but I could be wrong if you can send me the engine code and I'll certainly have a look but I think the the 163bhp used a different turbo with the repeat sensor built in so you would need to replace the whole unit not just the top sensor like mine, if you need to change the whole wastegate with sensor you would need to be careful not to adjust the top 10mm bolt on the thread bar on the wastegate simple trick is put a thick cable tie above it 10mm bolt and undo the bottom 10mm bolt and take the wastegate out and then using a gauge measure the length of the new arm and compare it to the old one of it's the same size put the 10mm bolt on the top and adjust it to the same length as the old one place back in the car the new one and put the bottom 10mm bolt back on tight and you should be good. If you find out that the new one the bar is longer work from the top of the unit and match it to the old one and don't worry about the end of it obviously making sure you put the 10mm bolt on and make sure it's tight. Test drive the car if it still feels like no improvement then the fault is somewhere else if you have access to live data that would help as well remember you changed one vacuum solenoid there is more than one on these am fairly sure that you might have another one out as this can also give you codes that point to the repeat sensor the way they are setup they work of each other also check your doser flaps on the intake if these are weak that would give you issues as well.

[@realMasterYoda]

@@CM-1986 Thank you very much, CM! Here is the VIN: VF38DRHHADL I can find only the sensor, I have checked this, which is very cost-effective and I am tempted to do it as there are no other operations, just replace the unit. What do you think?

[@CM-1986]

@@realMasterYoda Hi, I have had a look and your engine code is RHH similar setup as the blueHDi, having looked at the engine with the turbo wastegate I can see there is no adjustment on the arm so that infact should be a simple job juts be careful with the curclip as they have a tend to fly off and be lost I can see from the replacement part it comes with a new curclip and two copper washers I assume this is because you need to remove the oil feed am not sure as I've not replaced one on these RHH. I would suggest that you call a dealer and ask for the part number and compare them with the new wastegate unit so your not stripping it down and finding you have the wrong part. If you do it and it works I would be very inclined to take the old one apart as looking at the unit I wouldn't be surprised if has failed because of water getting in round the top. Please message me and let me know the outcome or if you need more help! Good luck 🤞 😁

[@rahunter81]

Hi sorry to jump on here i have a volvo v50 2.0d 2008 non dpf model. One hot day the boost was coming on sometimes and then off for a while then started working again. Parked it up next day no boost at all. I have scaned it it gave a low boost code once but not again. The psi reads at 2psi. No smoke from exhaust changed both tvc valves changed maf sensor clean map sensor no joy. Cleaned out boost pipes of oil no joy. I am completely stumped. No noises from turbo so i think the turbo seems ok but just not spinning up properly due to boost pressure. Any ideas. My next thought was vanes are stuck maybe so im gonna try mr muscle to clean it out. Its just weird as it was the hot day seemed to do it.

[@CM-1986]

Hi, don't be sorry I'll try and help. do you know he engine code for your engine I know Volvo use the engine from Peugeot and Citroen and ford. I would need to see what you have so I can advise what to try and do. Thanks 👍

[@rahunter81]

@C M D4204T its the four cylinder 2.0 d ford engine

[@CM-1986]

@@rahunter81 thats the PSA and ford engine so you said low boost you changed the solenoid for the turbo did you make sure you have it in the right other vac goes to vacuum side and out goes to the waste gate on the turbo, there is also another set of solenoid on the front of the engine on top of the Aircon pump did you check these as any leak or bad valve will have a effect on the low boost side. Maf and map sensor would give you error codes you could try and unplug the maf and take it for a drive to see if you have power but I do think it's something else. Live data would be your best friend as it will show what's working and not on the sensors.

[@CM-1986]

If you have a dpf filter this maybe blocked and reduce the power but I would like to see a code for that and you only have a low boost codes have you the code number?

[@rahunter81]

@C M no dpf filter in it and egr is blanked off and unplugged. Havent got the code only came up once mate

[@serer577]

Hi. I has a C4 2.0hdi 136. I guess my cars turbo sensor is dead. Engine bay is so small. Can you help me? How can I change this sensor? my Mechaniker

[@CM-1986]

What are your issues first? Dont think it's this sensor unless you have a fault code. If your asking how to change the sensor then it might be better to get someone to do it for you as you need to locate the turbo and look for the wastegate and you will see this sensor on the top undo the 3 screws and replace but you need to make sure this is the fault as it's only part of what works the turbo on these engines.

[@serer577]

@@CM-1986 P2562

[@Srdjan93tl]

i also changed all vacuum lines from pump to turbo, checked solenoid valve, i cleaned it. When i remove sensor same errors are on and same symptoms, that is why i think that is sensor problem?

[@CM-1986]

It might help on what car you have and year engine ect. Did you make sure you put the lines in the same order??

[@Srdjan93tl]

@@CM-1986 Apologize, i sent one more message, but it didn't arrive. Peugeot 407 2.0 HDI, depollution system fault diagnostic: P2565 on car start, and P2563 when i loose boost. When i disconnect that sensor same error stay, and car behave same as it connected. Wastegate moves normal. When i connect vacuum directly to (bypassing solenoids) wastegate i have boost all time.

[@ALTNABREAC-UNCOVERED]

Hi great video and some really great comments and advice, I have the following codes on my 1.4hdi peugeot 207 2011, it drives fine most of the time, the orange warning light comes up on the dash after 2000rpm approx and the digital display says "risk of particular filter clogging" When i boot the car it goes into limp mode, and only clears with my old obd2 reader. P1490 P1496 P2563 My local garage says it's the turbo actuator and have said it's £700 plus labour. Genuine peugeot part, they don't sell the sensor separately. I bought just the sensor you used and have you any tips or advice for changing. Thanks

[@CM-1986]

If it's a 1.4 HDI they don't have this sensor on the turbo, could it be a 1.6 HDi? As I don't think the 1.4 HDi came with A dpf filter. I would need to check the codes. The 1.4 and 1.6 turbos are on the front of the engine not the rear like the 2.0. the turbo solenoid on yours should be above the drive shaft area if I remember correctly that's the only thing that works the turbo but am not sure if they let the 1.4 have a vacuum control turbo it's more of a pressure wastegate same as the 1.6 HDi. I would check again as you could have a 1.6 HDi 110bhp engine that would have the fab system. The 1.6 comes in 90bhp and 110bhp the 110bhp would have the vacuum control for the turbo.

[@ALTNABREAC-UNCOVERED]

@@CM-1986 hi thanks for your quick reply, it's quite strange you say that as the guy at the turbo parts place said the same thing, he said pull the bonnet we will look, he said its a 1.6 and sold me the sensor that fits on the end of the turbo actuator, the turbo is at the front of the car on my engine. On my log book it says my cars a 1.4hdi quite strange really Thanks

[@CM-1986]

@@ALTNABREAC-UNCOVERED the 1.4 and 1.6 look the same. I'll be honest I have never worked on the 1.4 systems 1.6 110 yes I have but not yours having a quick look it does seam that they do use a repeat sensor like the 2.0. from what I can see yours must me a 68bhp or 70bhp HDi? For taking it out I would think it's only a matter of removing the 3 star head screws and replacing it and plugging it in, what you should never do is remove the turbo wastegate unit as it's setup to work perfect some older engines they use to shorten the rod so the car would come into boost quicker that will never work as the ECU controls the turbo on yours just remove the sensor and the road test and see if that gives you power back you would need to clear codes but it seams your dpf maybe blocked with the main code for the filter you could take it down the road in 3rd gear 50mph for 25/35 mins to try and clear part of the dpf filter, but after you have fixed the turbo sensor fault if your turbo is not working it's not gonna help blow out the filter.

[@ALTNABREAC-UNCOVERED]

@@CM-1986 many thanks for that advice its much appreciated, I will take a look and report back. Thanks again

[@ALTNABREAC-UNCOVERED]

@@CM-1986 hi I've replaced the sensor cleared the codes using diagbox which was P1490 and P2564, took the car for a spin and shortly after had " risk of particular filter clogging " come up so pulled over scanned the car again and now just have code P1490 coming up, any pointers please Thanks

[@ozankeremkarakaya9450]

Hello, I have a Citroen C5 2.0 HDI 136 hp vehicle, it gives errors at high speeds, it goes into protection mode and gives the following errors: p2563, p0238, P0234. I changed the solenoid valve, the result is the same.

[@DieArmeSau]

same car, same engine, same error :D did you fix it ? Do you have Lexia?

[@ozankeremkarakaya9450]

@@DieArmeSau It's been 6 months since I made the comment :D I solved the problem by unplugging the MAF sensor. When the MAF sensor was removed, the vehicle got better. It only gave an error about the MAF sensor, but the vehicle did not go into protection. I hope it solves your problem too, my advice would be to sell the vehicle as soon as possible because the problem never goes away :D

[@DieArmeSau]

@@ozankeremkarakaya9450 Noooo not sell :D ....i have various Turbo Problems since 2 Years....sometimes 6month no error ^^ anyway thx for reply :)

[@ozankeremkarakaya9450]

@@DieArmeSau I love the vehicle very much, but the vehicle did not like me, I think I had a lot of problems :D Your problems are probably sensor-related, I cannot comment on your exact problem, but check the solenoid valve, vacuum line, MAP and MAF sensor.

[@DieArmeSau]

​@@ozankeremkarakaya9450 i think my car has other Problems 😮 kzbin.infolsqithOEv7c?si=EHanUJMm8d5yPdfv

[@Srdjan93tl]

Hi, again to write bacause i was unclear last message. My car is Peugeot 407 2.0 HDI RHR 2004 Codes are: P2565 TBCPS Circuit Voltage Hight when i start car (not trigger only on ignition, when i start car yes) P2563 TBCPS Range/Perfomance (this appear when i loose boost) When i loose boost my max PSI is 4.2 When i have boost my max PSI is 15.9 I think that i loose boost only when i drive about 2000 rpm's Tried to drive without MAF, EGR, TBCPS, When i disconnect TBCPS i have same codes, and car drives same, i have boost and when i loose it i restart car and again i have it What i did: I changed all vacuum lines I tried to clear turbo solenoid valve, it looks fine Wastegate moves under vacuum 1cm up and down, i will provide you video in comment I checked TCPS wires, looks fine How you checked TBCPS? What i need to look more? EGR was blanked, i unblank it.

[@Srdjan93tl]

Here is video that show how my wastegate moves; kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGnZk2dqi8qta6c It is possible to move it only by vacuum, by hand no way, Looks fine on vacuum? If i connect vacuum directly to wastegate, bypassing solenoids, i get full boost all time, of course overboost because wastegate is closed and 21PSI is boost max then.

[@CM-1986]

Hi, the TBCPS is Turbo repeat sensor no need for fancy TBCPS round here as it will confuse others lol. what you need to do is remove the turbo repeat sensor and check for water inside as the rubber o ring can fail and let water in, next thing is to make sure you have all the vacuum lines in the right order if you have one the wrong way the system will not give you boost. the movement in your video looks ok what you can do is see how long it holds pressure over 10-15min, also do a pressure check on the line from the turbo sensor to the turbo repeat sensor as with this being next to a hot engine it can become weak and not hold vacuum. you can blank the EGR on these without any engine codes leave it blanked. have you replaced any of the solenoid valves on the car? the main one that gives issues is the one on the top of the engine on the left side you will see it if you look its brown in colour unless its changed it might be black. check the two front ones as well to make sure they are in the right order vac goes to vac and out goes into the doser flap, the main thing to remember is make a note were the pipe came off and put it back on the right way many times its just put back on in the wrong order or place thats why you have no boost. voltage high could be a factor of water in the repeat sensor and inside is damaged so its drawing more than 5v to work, without seeing the car i cant say have you any live data that will show turbo and air flow map maf ect?

[@Srdjan93tl]

@@CM-1986 Hi, thank you for your detailed answer. First thing that i checked was vacuum lines, so i replaced them, i also tried to connect vacuum line directly from pump to solenoid (top left for turbo) and from solenoid to wastegate, but everything was same. I also suspect to Turbo Repeat Sensor, but it is hard to me to unscrew it, what you used to unscrew it?

[@JedemPoKucama]

Please can you help me.. I have 307 2.0 hdi 110 and turbo stopped working.. No lights on the dash.. What should I look?

[@CM-1986]

If you have no boost on your 2.0 110bhp then I would be looking at the boost solenoid valve around the oil filter. From memory the turbo solenoid is the one with the grey electronic plug.

[@JedemPoKucama]

@@CM-1986 that's my opinion too.. Funny thing when I unplugged that connector once I got a check engine light and esp/abs not working and antiopollution faults on the dash.. All because of that grey plug😂

[@CM-1986]

@@JedemPoKucama yeah that will happen am near sure you get that because the vacuum line is shared with the brakes if you follow the vacuum hoses you will see they all roll into the vacuum pump. What you could do as a test, remove the one for your EGR it's blue plug and swap it with your turbo one and see if you have boost back. Make sure you mark the hoses as vac goes to vaccum and out goes to your source ie turbo wastgate.

[@JedemPoKucama]

@@CM-1986 i ordered cheap used but working solenoid.. We'll see

[@CM-1986]

@@JedemPoKucama if it works out then I would maybe buy a new one. Also forgot to say they have a habit of breaking wires halfway up the loom from the plug. Report back to see if it fixed your issue.

[@kikopatano77]

this turbo repeat sensor work in a ford ranger 2.2 tdi mod. 2015, and if it work, where can i buy it? Thanks

[@djlocum]

Hi CM. Do you know where to locate this sensor on 407 2l hdi?

[@CM-1986]

Alastair Gogerty yeah it's on top of the wastgate you cant miss it it's held in with 3 crosshead screws you need to look at the turbo and you will see it behind the engine on yours you have more room than the 307. Just becareful as the screw heads can be easy stripped. Also are you getting any fault codes?

[@djlocum]

Thanks for the reply. Yes im getting p2562. Iv already tried cleaning the vacuum solenoids and checking the pipes. It limps after about 20 mins of driving and resets back to normal when you turn it off and on again.

[@CM-1986]

Alastair Gogerty , yours sounds like it's sticking like mine was just some advice don't buy a cheap repeat sensor as they will give you issues I had a cheap one and when I installed it in the car it was ok for 30mins then the car would not start and give me a list of fault codes for ECU and sensor faults, lucky for me I kept the OEM one in the car and had to swap it away from driveway. London turbos was the ones I used, when you have the sensor out try a check for water inside the wastgate housing if you find any you will need to dry it before you install the new sensor. Do you have access to live data?

[@nikolafilipovic2866]

did you have problems with power before you changed the sensor?

[@CM-1986]

nikola filipovic , yes the car would come into boost and boost would die quickly like someone was flicking a light switch on and off it would reset after you turn the car off and on again, on the computer it comes up turbo repeat sesnor fault if your having issues I would check the codes first, on these it's normally the boost sesnor that you need to replace.

[@nikolafilipovic2866]

Tkank you for Info, i have the same Symptoms like you told but when i turn off the car it helps nothing and the next morning its runing for couple minutes Ok and then nothing no power at all

[@CM-1986]

nikola filipovic what car do you have? I would be looking at the boost valve that controls the turbo not the repeat sesnor unless your getting a code for that if you look at the video mine was sticking so if yours is sticking it may not release till it's cold or take a while to spring back out. What I did was spray some wd40 in with the sensor but it only helped for a few days then I replaced the part and I was good again.

[@nikolafilipovic2866]

Peugeot 407 2.0 hdi 136hp tomorow i have a check by a mechenic than i will know more, Thanks

[@CM-1986]

nikola filipovic the repeat sesnor on the 407 is far better to get at as mine was a 307 and was a pig to replace the sesnor, if you can get some live data that will give you more details if you can upload a video and I'll take a look and see what I can see, the turbo boost valve is on the top left side bolted behind the engine it's a brown valve that controls the turbo wastgate, on the front of the engine if you look down at the air con pump you will see two more vacuum valves that works the front doser flaps they can give issues as well but live data is the key on these cars.

[@eme444]

Thanks for share!

[@jorgeorellanaaguilar9202]

thanks you very much!!!!

[@JoeBob79569]

thanks for the info... :-)

[@CM-1986]

no worries Joe, the ones from Melett work well that's what I have on mine.