Turbocharging my 7M Mk3 Toyota Supra

I needed to run a larger turbo on my 7M to get the power numbers I'm after. This is a pretty brief overview on what I did to run a turbo on my non-turbo 7M. If you guys have any other questions let me know. Stay tuned in for more content.

[@ibm_businessman6033]

You have no idea how golden this video is to us man

[@prod2k3]

Glad to see more content out here on boosting GE's

[@jacksin3323]

Whoa... just found this channel. Ive only had my 7m for about a month. Subbed and bookmarked. Glad i found ya.

[@mainstreambuilds]

Thanks for checking out and supporting the channel!

[@TheHighroller88]

i have the same turbo on my 2jz for 2 years now still hitting boost strong 21psi you will love it

[@mainstreambuilds]

I'm excited to see what it does!

[@jaggejaguttaja9986]

my supra was inspected yesterday and in traffic again for a long time. the cover gasket burned for the 2nd time so now it's metal. great car drives in good condition from the start.

[@mainstreambuilds]

Need more of these out on the streets!

[@LouisLooks]

Thanks for the video, very helpful. Your car looks gorgeous!

[@mainstreambuilds]

Thanks man!

[@JoseMartinez-lb5gq]

Love the videos 🤘

[@mainstreambuilds]

Thanks man!

[@albrustmeyer753]

Great job 👏 TY

[@mainstreambuilds]

Thanks for watching! Appreciate it!

[@xXAsunaxKiritoXx]

My 7mgte mk3s been out for 2 weeks after EGR cooler plate gasket gave out and Harmonic dampener also going out. Just spent 500 on Drift motion for a ATI dampener, egr cooler plate gasket and custom crankbolt for the ATI dampener since its smaller for the new unit.

[@mainstreambuilds]

Oh that sounds all top familiar. I made custom EGR plates for my car. ATIs are the way to go. I will be getting one eventually.

[@xXAsunaxKiritoXx]

I really wanted to block off the egr but looks like Cali still haves to sniff my Supra every 2 years which is absolutely fucking retarded for its age since is basicly impossible to find new oem emmisions equipment. As for the ATI i had no choice because I dont see anymore new oem Harmonic balancers but ati or fluidr and chose ati since its on every other mk3. Later in the future if i do go standalone, i can get a crank trigger kit for the ati unit since its made for it which is nice for future proofing.

[@mainstreambuilds]

@xXAsunaxKiritoXx yeah utah is the same way. Emissions testing every year. Hopefully with a good tune and decent cats I should be able to pass 🤞. Yeah my oem damper is on its way out too. When I start making more power I will be swapping it out 100%. I've done a few videos on the trigger wheel with can and crank sensors. Pretty straight forward. Now I'm just muddling my way through the "start phase" of the tuning process.

[@miggy7500]

LETSS GOOOOOOOO

[@richardwilliams9815]

The oil in your compressor housing is from the primitive maf sensor or afm. When a turbo is trying to suck air in any type of restriction will create vacuum in the inlet hose and pull oil from the front piston ring in the center housing of the turbo. Turbos don't have seals.

[@mainstreambuilds]

Ohhhhh that's good to know. I figured the oil was pushing by those piston seal lookin things on the shaft where it runs through the center section of the turbo.

[@richardwilliams9815]

@mainstreambuilds nope. I build about 5 turbos a week. When I get their cores I ask about their air filter. Cobb idk why but Cobb air filters are awful. A lack of inlet air flow is a huge problem with turbos. People think it's blow buy. On my 4g63 with a 6262 I ran a 4 inch inlet with a 12 inch long air filter. Zero oil in the fmic or piping.

[@richardwilliams9815]

@@mainstreambuilds it's like a bad pcv system. Oil pressure will build up and seep through valve steam seals and go into the cylinders.

[@mainstreambuilds]

@richardwilliams9815 oh that makes perfect sense. Definitely good to know. I'd like to use the holset on another project eventually

[@richardwilliams9815]

@@mainstreambuilds ibe go many center housings with billet compressor wheels.

[@negativeindustrial]

No way that oil drain plug is 1/8npt. The Japanese don’t use it. It’s the same thread as on the oil sender on the 3S-GTE and the 1JZ-GTE. 1/8BSPT. Nice work on the turbo upgrade.

[@mainstreambuilds]

You may be right. I will have ti double check it. It's been a few years

[@mainstreambuilds]

Thanks for the info. You are correct. The fitting should be a 1/8bsp to a -4an. I believe at the time I first did all this the local shop here only had a 1/8npt to -4an. Not ideal as it starts to tighten up with only about 4 full turns. I will be replacing this with the correct one in the future.

[@negativeindustrial]

@@mainstreambuilds No worries, sir. I’ve experienced the full pressure leak in the engine bay before. Not fun, especially given it’s location above the exhaust manifold on the 7M.

[@supraman274]

Did you swap the 7mge head for a 7mgte head? Also can you explain how you did if you changed it.

[@mainstreambuilds]

No this is 7mge bottom end and 7mge head. I've heard the GE cams are better than GTE cams.

[@ViktorHansen23]

Is the car on stock ecu in this video with the dizzy or did you put it on a standalone? Im trying to figure out what i can and cant do with the stock ge ecu if i slap a turbo on the car.

[@mainstreambuilds]

I have been running this setup on a stock ecu for years. 8psi with 550cc injectors and stock distributor. The stock ecu was just ok. The car ran rich and would have weird hesitations on throttle, but it actually ran pretty well. I'm now in the process of moving over to the ecumaster standalone. I've had a few issues but should be up and running very soon.

[@ViktorHansen23]

@@mainstreambuilds gotcha! I've got an 89 Cressida I'm planning on turboing but was unsure if I could get away with the stock ECU or not. I've also got a gte harness, coils, cas, ECU, so I was unsure if I should try to source the rest of the parts I would need to do a more "stock"ish swap or if I should just keep the distributor and stock ECU setup until I can afford a standalone and basically do what you're doing right now. Alright sweet sounds like I've got more of a game plan for version 1 lol

[@mainstreambuilds]

@ViktorHansen23 yeah mine handled it just fine. Obviously it could be better with a standalone, but ran the car like this for a loong time. 8-10psi ran ok but I never really pushed it. I had to idle the car a little higher (1k), but it ran surprisingly well on the stock ecu.

[@ViktorHansen23]

@@mainstreambuilds that's all I'm really looking for right now anyways is 8-10psi. That's perfect, I'm glad you're doing God's work for God's motor. I never got to boost my white cressida so I'm super glad all this knowledge is online and being shared so fools like me can bring this setup into my own existence.

[@mainstreambuilds]

@ViktorHansen23 yeah you will have some fun with it. 8-10psi feels pretty responsive and it will make all the fun turbo sounds (which is most important). Haha I'm just happy to help and share my success and failures with others. The 7M is a fun motor and with a little work they can hold some good power.

[@davidgonzales5209]

Where did you source the an fittings and Lines?

[@mainstreambuilds]

These are evil energy fittings and hoses from Amazon. I've had these same fittings on my car for a while with no issues.

[@me69tube1]

I’m a little confused by your video. You start by saying you are going to add a turbo to a 7mge but then it already has a turbo and the engine cover is labeled 7mgte. Did I miss something?

[@mainstreambuilds]

Haha yeah sorry I can definitely see the confusion. My supra came from the factory with a 7mge. I turbocharged the car several years ago and did not do a video back then. So it was kinda done in reverse. I wanted to make this video to show a brief step by step on what I needed to do to turbocharge my 7mge. As for the timing belt cover, yeah it is from a 7mgte. I was given a 7mgte cover and it was in better condition than my stock 7mge cover. I've since pulled the 7mgte label off and replaced it with a 7mge label. Sorry for the confusion, hopefully this straightens that all out.

[@nickk3765]

Did you make the manifold? Or where did you get it

[@mainstreambuilds]

Both the turbo manifold and intake manifold are custom made

[@nickk3765]

@@mainstreambuilds I love the dump for the wastegate right out of the header. Have been having a heck of a time fitting mine on the drift motion down pipe

[@mainstreambuilds]

@@nickk3765 just not lining up? Or is there just not enough space in the bay?

[@nickk3765]

@@mainstreambuilds only have the old 50mm hks style and the outlet is right against the DP. Probably weld the wastegate dump right in to the DP eventually. Just a pain

[@nickk3765]

Or use the hks to tial convertor and have a lil more space

[@nik557]

Not sure if I missed it or not but is this a 7mgte block or just a na 7mge block?

[@mainstreambuilds]

This is a 7mge block.

[@nik557]

@@mainstreambuilds am currently building one in Australia for a mx83 Cressida hoping to go for the 450-500hp mark! Love these engines hopefully I don’t need oil squirrels for it tjo

[@mainstreambuilds]

@nik557 oh that's rad! So my machine shop told me oil squirters weren't necessary with forged pistons. I'm sure someone on here might have a different answer for you. I've been running wiseco pistons with no oil squirters for years and haven't had any issues.

[@nik557]

@@mainstreambuilds I have same idea on running the forged wiseco pistons also! Everyone seems to be running them also!

[@mainstreambuilds]

@nik557 yeah they are pretty solid. I haven't had any issues at all with them.

[@suewavang1538]

What ECU are you running?

[@mainstreambuilds]

Ecumaster classic

[@suewavang1538]

@@mainstreambuilds did you have to modify the harness or repin it to GTE plugs to get it to work? I know GTE and GE have different pin outs. At least with the gray plug style.

[@mainstreambuilds]

@suewavang1538 yeah I've had to move a few things around. I will do a video on it once I get it timed and running. Pretty much all the non-critical stuff is run through the adapter harness that ecumasters provides. The injectors, coils, cam and crank sensors, flex fuel sensor, boost solenoid, speed sensor, and a few other sensors are pinned directly to the ecu. Everything else runs through the adapter hanress.

[@suewavang1538]

@@mainstreambuilds was this what you had to do with the old electronics as well? I know you've upgraded a few things including coil packs. I'm hoping to keep running my stock distributor since I don't have huge power goals.

[@mainstreambuilds]

@suewavang1538 since I was 7mge-t I had timing issues with the distributor. Everything else seemed to work fine. I just decided I wanted to get rid all the old tech and upgrade everything to make tuning a lot easier. I've heard the ecumaster adapter harness can have wiring issues. So I wasn't super surprised when I ran into a few issues.