Turning a 7" Diameter Aluminum Dive Tank into a Bell

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Very cool project ! I grew up in South Florida and was a certified Scuba Diver at the age of 16 with ove 250 logged dives under my belt the tone of Scuba tanks ringing was a very familiar one as we didn’t have fancy racks on our boats or trucks to carry them around and usually they just clanked along on the ride to our destinations I always used Aluminum tanks because. When they are newer you can legally. Have more air compressed into them for a period. Which meant longer dives in the valves there are safety devices built in if the pressure gets too high in the tank it will blow out the air to relieve the pressure one time. I had my tanks in my bedroom and it got super hot in our house and two tanks Blew out their safety device that scared the heck out of my Mom who was alone from that point foward i had to store my tanks in the garage ! They didn’t keep track of fills on the tanks it was all controlled by the date stamps and certifications on how long you could keep getting your tanks refilled after so many years you had to have the tanks Hydro testested at a facility that pressurized them and measured their expansion ability They were also required to do a visual inspection of the inside of the tank as well and without those inspections dive shops would not refill the tanks which is probably why your freind cut the bottom of his because they were out of date and not worth much money at all ? Ive seen a lot of art projects made out of old tanks and of course portable air tanks for car tires and similar

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks I enjoyed the background. It was interesting to hear about how the takes are actually used.

[@reedfelton762]

Nice project and fun to watch. Lots of complexity built in...internal stress, size of the material, out of roundness, work holding challenges, no applicable reference from machinery handbook , and of course there is the physics of acoustics. Lots wrapped into one package. Nice job!

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I learned a lot about what not to do, but had a lot of fun in the process. Many of my choices were oriented towards interesting machining tasks rather than having a really nice sounding bell. As a result, I made some bad choices, resulting in poor bell quality. Thanks for the comment.

[@reedfelton762]

@@DudleyToolwright They were only "bad" choices if you didn't learn anything. My guess is that your thirst for knowledge will never be quenched!

[@jimwiskus8862]

I think working with metal is just one of the coolest things ever. I cannot tell you how many times I've utilized a good machinist for projects. Long story short if I could hit the rewind button I would have become a machinist. I actually took a class at a local community college. Sadly the program disappeared. Nothing like a great lathe & milling machine. I live in Iowa and concur with a few others. In the summer the humidity usually matches the temperature & in the winter your face can get chapped due to the humidity combined with the cold. Take care & Happy New Years to you from Iowa.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I took classes in a local adult school and much like you, if I had started machining when I was younger, I would likely have entered a different field as well. I really love machining, but I bet it is really hard to make a living at these days. Happy New Year to you too.

[@amrosla67]

I’m kind of stupid with the technical aspects of making a bell with good harmonies, but just fascinated with the whole video!!! I know I’d just be asking a lot of questions and aggravating you, but would just love to sit in your shop and watch one of these projects come to life!!! Thanks again and looking forward to another great video!!! Art

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the kind words. I am an amateur, just learning the trade, and really feel that I might have missed my calling, at least from an enjoyment standpoint. Please ask any questions you like. I will answer them to the best of my ability. Thanks.

[@royreynolds108]

As pointed out by several people, the plug in the tube affects the tone. I believe if you remove the screwed in plug you will have a deep toned bell. The tone of the tube is directly related to diameter, length, thickness, and material as well as whether the tube is open or closed. A cast bell is not necessarily perfect circles. In physics there are formulas for bells and chimes. There are YT videos on making wind chimes. Your approach was interesting. To make the slots another approach is to use a slitting saw instead of the end mill. Scuba an other pressure tanks are hydro tested each 5 years for safety. If they fail they are drilled if they didn't split. You are correct that 2100 or 2700 psi can be a bomb.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the feedback and the great ideas. Much appreciated.

[@thylacine1962]

This was an excelent feat of engineering. From a zero concentricity object to the final product was awesome. I enjoy this video very much.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate hearing your thoughts.

[@doright6461]

When I saw the thumbnail I didn't see the steady rest and my first though was it's half way there. All you need is a 1/2 inch tool hanging out about 4 inches and start cutting. Bam! a bell lol. Cool project and video.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I have been a bit lazy. You tube lets you upload a specific thumbnail for each video. If you choose not to then they choose one for you. Alas, their choices are not always the best. Thanks for the comment.

[@rubarb0406]

If I can get my lathe restored, I have a project similar to yours. I will be attempting to turn down a 6.5 inch diameter steel pipe to function as a pier for my telescope. Really appreciate your woes. . . I suspect that I will have many of the same issues you encountered. Thank you for sharing the entire project and not editing out the problem segments.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I see no point in cutting out my mistakes to make me appear to know what I am doing, when my approaches probably show how much of a novice I am already. Besides, I learn more from my mistakes than I do from my successes. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

[@deeremeyer1749]

That's a good attitude and approach. There are so many "perfect" experts on KZbin its not even funny. And as a very amateur "machinist" that has done nothing but basic engine machining like installing valve seats and counterbore inserts in diesel engine blocks etc but one who is wanting to find a decent and relatively small and "affordable" lathe to "play with" as an even MORE amateur "gunsmith" (the only thing I'm a "professional" and "expert" at is diesel mechanics and after 25 years I still don't know shit and learn new things every time I pick up a wrench) I've been watching quite a few machining videos from "celebrity" KZbin machinists, lol. I've noticed an interesting phenomenon where the supposedly most "experienced" and "best" machinists make ZERO mistakes but yet spend a lot of time explaining why things they do that look "questionable" even to a complete rookie like me aren't really "mistakes" at all. And that's when they're actually doing any real "machining", which is also fairly rare. Lots of talk, lots of "demonstrating", lots of "planning" and "setup" and lots of "projects" involving SURFACE GRINDERS and a little milling here or there and lots of "lathe talk" but damned little turning, drilling, etc. And lots of "fast forward" type videos where they spend 20 minutes talking about what they're going to do, why, how etc etc etc and all the set-up and such and then suddenly "in the interest of time" or for no apparent reason "skip" the actual machining. Makes me think the "experts" aren't so "expert" after all and they're only doing "flawless" work in the "edited" videos and not so much in the "real world". Why not show the WHOLE SHOW? Egos are fragile things and plenty of "experts" are counting on KZbin or "sponsor" or "supporter" income or the "PR" benefits to their businesses that result from being an on-screen "expert" and "master machinist". Unfortunately, editing videos is easy and editing egos and expertise and experience themselves are not. And eventually every "celebrity" becomes yesterday's news.

[@michaelhale4041]

Great idea. I took some small o2 tanks and made oil containers. When machining cylinders put a piece of rubber hose around the inside. That helps on the loud singing of the cylinder(don't know the technical term). I believe I seen that on abom79. Very nice job.

[@DudleyToolwright]

The rubber hose is a great idea, thanks. I appreciate you taking the time to share.

[@thebluemantis]

Thank you for uploading this. I am an absolute beginner when it comes to machining but I need to make a large lens hood for an antique camera lens. I am a lot more confident about the process after watching this!

[@DudleyToolwright]

Please note that I am a complete novice as well, so take my approaches with a grain of salt. I wish you the best of luck and perhaps you can make a video to show your projects. They sound interesting.

[@stephengardin2423]

Since diver tanks are formed hot and forged the stresses are built in. The tanks are not annealed prior to their use. With large chunks of metal that are not annealed, one must cook them to release the pent-up stresses first.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I agree. I didn't have an easy way to do that and lived with the result. Thanks for the comment.

[@beardyface8492]

The easy and quick way to do that with ally, is to coat it with soap, then heat it with a large propane torch or kerosene powered weed burner till the soap turns black, which it does at about the right temp for way cheaper indication than temp sticks. For smaller bits a smaller torch will do obviously. For something that chimney shape with the base already cut off and an opening at the top standing it on a camping stove to heat it from the inside would likely work too but slower.

[@georgespeake5089]

Very nice to watch. I’m new to machining and learned a lot. Thanks.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks this is one of my early videos and I still have a lot to learn. I was totally enthralled with turning something "big".

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

Had similar problems machining my axel tubes. Or to be more precise: your video has ALL of the problems I had, including wrecking the bearings.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. Misery loves company. I really enjoyed the whole project. I just think the challenge of turning something that large was fun. Cheers.

[@christurnblom4825]

If you ever do this again, leave the top on. You should get a more pleasing tone. I'm pretty sure that adding the threaded top was a bad idea. Try removing it, drill three holes around the top, hang it from that & see if the tone improves. Also, there is this amazing little tuner called a Snark, they're about 15 or 20 bucks. The one I have says "guitar & bass tuner" on it but it's worked for anything I've tried it on including bells or chimes. They even have pitch calibration in case you want to tune to 432 vs 440 or something. These are the most amazing little tuners, especially for the price, hands down.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the suggestions. People have been so helpful with feedback on this project. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts.

[@Zoidberg227]

I was wondering this. I think taking off the curved shoulder and specifically adding in the threaded plug may have introduced some odd harmonics. Also, I think a softer clapper is in order. Leather on wood, maybe. As for the tuner, any chromatic tuner ought to do, or you can use an app on your smartphone.

[@christurnblom4825]

@@Zoidberg227 Yes but Snarks are just awesome. The plug would definitely introduce odd harmonics. I'm not a sound technician or anything but I did want to be a recording engineer at one point so I read some college textbooks on the subject. Modern Recording Techniques is a great one if you can find it at the library or whatever. You'll only need to read the first parts to learn everything you need to know about how sound moves through and bounces off of materials, including the equations. Welding would be preferred to threading but... oh, screw it. it's a long road for to explain all this and I'm too far detached from it to do it efficiently and possibly, effectively. You can still learn it all from the internet but that book I suggested has it all in one place.

[@davids7550]

I cut the aluminum with a circular saw. I wonder if baking the aluminum tank in an oven would help lower the timbre.

[@DudleyToolwright]

That's an excellent idea. Aluminum can work harden during machining operations. Some time spent in a heat treat oven might re-anneal the metal, as it were. I probably would need to know what alloy was used as well.

[@giannirocco9099]

Probably made over a hundred bells from various cylinders and can say steel always sounds good but have never heard an aluminum one sound worth a damn.Was a very good learning project in so many ways,the only thing lacking was tone quality

[@DudleyToolwright]

Recently, my brother in law asked to hear what the bell would sound like without the threaded plug in the end and low and behold it rings really well and even sound nice.

[@giannirocco9099]

@@DudleyToolwright that's great!I turn away aluminum dive tanks just because I've never heard one sound good,but I have never put one on the lathe either.Thought you made a great video,was a lot to learn there,and was very enjoyable as well!

[@normanthompson4729]

Scuba tanks are submerged in water because of to heat involved in putting 2200 psi in it , if you look at tank being turned on the lathe ,the bottom part is normal dia. the top part extended out of the water and show the effect of not being cooled . These tanks need to be submerged to the neck . Another reason to submerge tank is in case of failure or explosion , this tank was not filled properly .

[@DudleyToolwright]

Interesting. I noticed the tanks being submerged when being filled, but never though about the temperature differential that would result. Great observation. Thanks.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

I'd like to preface this with "I could be totally wrong, I'm not an engineer or even very smart at all", so please keep that in mind. It's just me trying to think and maybe help. On your steady rest, if the bolt your tightening is 1 3/8"-12, I think that 1 ft/lb of torque would equal approx. 60 lbs of clamping force. I would think with the size of the knob you have on it you could get 20 ft/lbs by hand very easily, 20 X 60 = 1200 lbs of clamping force. So I don't think the 650 lbs to break the bearings would not be very hard to do at all.... Cool vid thanks for sharing.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Neat analysis! I was aware of the overall concept of a screw as a lever to create a linear force, but had no idea how to solve this type of physics problem. I might have to dust off my old collage physics books and see if I can find the answer. Your analysis on the surface seems very reasonable. Thanks a ton for sharing. This was very interesting insight.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

I never made it even close to collage so I would be very interested to hear another's analysis to disprove or validate my theory either one!

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Tough project, length has a lot to do with tone. Where it is struck is important also. Wind chime comes to mind. A large at the top of the cut will change the ring. Someone somewhere as had to made one. Thanks for sharing

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. There have been a few comments on things I could do to improve the sound. I was mostly looking for an excuse to turn something large. Cheers.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Dudley Toolwright yes, that was awesome turning!

[@wayneparris3439]

I get that this was an excuse to turn a cylinder but as a blacksmith, it is common for us to turn tanks into bells, you STARTED with a bell and it went down hill from there LOL! If you had made a plug/hook to fit in the threaded neck... as a bell, it would have been done :P I do get the whole excuse for turning though :D

[@DudleyToolwright]

Your criticisms are dead on. I was really looking for any excuse to turn something large. One of the people who inspired me to get into machining was Adam Booth, Abom79, and he is always turning something cool. Thanks for the comments. I really appreciate them.

[@martineastburn3679]

Longer the 'bell' is the lower the tone. Short is high. Make a ring of 4' down to 1' 1" ID tubing. Those on porches are high pitch short. I have a long one out with the tractor in the shed. It has a flapper that catches wind and a line up to the hanger of the ring a ringer . Good first start!

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the suggestions. If I ever make another, I will defiantly use a different approach. You and so many others have been really helpful. I really appreciate it.

[@tstephens128]

great video, release the tension by heating the metal, then letting cool slowly, others probably have the best temp range for aluminum, I'm not a metallurgist, but learned a lot from others.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for taking the time to share a useful suggestion. Much appreciated.

[@shredct3118]

Every one of our failures puts us one step closer to success. Great work bro.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I have taken so many steps...Cheers.

[@Romans--bo7br]

Dudley Toolwright..... Thanks for another Great video, I learn something new with every video you put out.... and I Am a subscriber to your YT channel. Now it's my chance to give you a little tip and help you... and yes, I realize that this video is now 7 months old... But, just in case you put the "Chime" on the back burner since then and would like some input on the path to better resonance....... A MAJOR step for you to getting a Lot more resonance is to REMOVE the end cap, lose the threads in the tube and drill 3 to 4 holes into a NEW Solid WOOD End Cap AND the tube as well. Suspend the cap as you were from the center and Suspend the Tube Separately from the cap with a strong enough "rope" or fishing line, etc... but the Smallest diameter possible with strength enough to support the weight of the tube. Do NOT use Any form of Steel cable... also, Different Woods (for the "cap") will affect the overall tone, as well as the type of suspension "cables" will between the tube and the cap. It's Too bad that you cut the vertical slots in the tube... that pretty well "killed it" for any chance at the Best possible resonances.... however, not all is lost... and it will be what it is, But DEFINITELY remove the cap from IN the tube... it's the main reason for the suppression of any resonant tones that could be there.... "try it.... you'll like it". lol : ) You will want the tube, to hang approximately 10 to 12 inches Below the "cap"... for starters.... and you might have to play with the suspension "ropes" in terms of length from the "cap" to the tube until you get the best resonance that is best for Your "ear". To be honest... your tube is too thick to really get any melodic resonance out of it for the length that it is... but, removing and changing the suspension "cap" to Solid Wood, WILL make a Huge difference in what you will hear, compared to what you (and "we") were hearing in this video. As I said above, Different woods, thicknesses, Hard or Soft.... will All contribute to different resonant tones... as well as will the material that your suspension "ropes" are made from... But, NEVER Any type of Metallic (steel, etc) cable.... well, you could... but it is by far, the very least desirable medium for hanging "chimes" of any kind and getting the most melodic forms of resonance. IF... you really want to start getting some better resonance and tone.... turn it down to Half the wall thickness of what it is now (or was when you filmed this), and go from there, even with the vertical cuts in it... it will be better.... but you don't want to take too much off... either.... because as the thinner it is, the higher the frequencies.... and with the slots cut into it.... and "IF" the frequencies get too high, cracks "could" develope around the ends or along the length of the slots, unless you camfer and Polish the slot edges to relieve any stress points on the sharp edges. Take Care.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Wow, what a thorough response. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I really haven't a clue at bell or chime design, if that wasn't obvious enough already. I was attempting this project to turn something large, with all of the associated challenges, and the ringing quality was a distant afterthought. It would have been nice though. I put the cap in, because I wanted to try my hand at non-standard, large, threads, but my wife really wants something that rings. I will attempt some of your suggestions and see if I can recover from the multitude of mistakes I made. My wife thanks you as well. Again, I really appreciate the time you spent, sharing your knowledge. I think you have probably helped others as well. Cheers.

[@mikesnyder6171]

Should check out Keith Fenner's video on steady rest. He used cam followers as bearings,they have a lot higher load rating and about twice the contact width with a smaller bearing OD. I made the same mistake. Scored everything I used it on including hydraulic rod which is chrome.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I didn't know that Keith had a video on making a steady rest. I'll check it out. Thanks for the suggestions. Another viewer suggested needle bearings for the same reasons.

[@BubbleOnPlumb]

You can very likely change the sound characteristics of your bell by heating treating and/or cold working the aluminium. Just a thought.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I had not thought of either of those things. Thanks for the tips.

[@onepairofhands]

good to see an large scale project on the lathe, enjoyed it Dudley

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I have more coming.

[@michaelwooda9444]

I would have left the rounded end cap.using the tank threads for the 👅.then experimented with the lenth of the tank. shortening untill the best sound.but live the look.is that a grizzly lathe? didnt get a good look at it.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the tips. The lathe is an ACRA.

[@philfox8878]

great job yes you will learn from mistakes. Next tank leave bottom on then drill hole into it and insert a bolt drill and tap so live centre can fit. on the top end do the same but with a hollow threaded tube. The tanks deform along the length but the bottom and top should stay parallel ( ish ) due to the thickness. Then turn down the length of the tube but keeping it cold to cool as turning will heat up the tank. Cut in half you have 2 bells. The way you did it you did a great job mistakes are all about learning. Nice job.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I really appreciate the insight and you taking the time to help. I had no choice with the bottom as I received the tank with it already removed, But I like your thinking and the two bells idea is great. Thanks again.

[@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire]

One of the things that I always wanted to do was take an old SCUBA tank that had failed a hydro test, part off the bottom around 3" from the bottom, and then thread the two parts where they could fit back together. It would be like a super size version of those "stash cans" that are disguised as soft drink, Draino, or whatever that you hide spare in. If the line where it screws together is not absolutely perfect, it could be hidden by one of the plastic / rubber "tank boots". Even better would be if a bulkhead could be welded up in it so that part of the tank could still hold some pressure, just in case someone turned the tank valve to see if it was pressurized.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I love the idea. Imagine what you could store in there. In addition you could fill it with dry nitrogen and preserve whatever was inside.

[@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire]

@@DudleyToolwright -- I wasn't talking about the pressure portion of it being able to be opened, just the extra area. If you wanted for it to hold pressure, you would probably have to do some sort of captured O-ring seal on the tank bottom, but it would be a bit dangerous trying to hold the full pressure that the tank had been originally rated for. I'm thinking just make the top portion where it can hold a few hundred psi so that if anyone was checking to see if there was pressure in the tank, it would *appear* to be a normal tank. Little would they know that in the hidden area, you have a 50 year old bottle of Scotch stored there... :)

[@DudleyToolwright]

I see. I was thinking just 20-30 PSI so that it would appear to have residual pressure inside, but your idea is better.

[@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire]

@@DudleyToolwright -- Come to think of it, if you disassembled an AR-15, it might fit inside of a SCUBA tank. Just in case the leftists ever get control and try coming door-to-door to confiscate your guns (like Beto said he would do). Hide it in plain sight and quicker to access than digging up a PVC storage tube in the backyard. Just put the fake tank along with a few real tanks in your closet. I sometimes dove areas where there were not any local air fill locations, so I have probably 6-8 tanks. I'm not going to sacrifice a *good* tank for that though... :)

[@johnzudans7724]

Best sound comes from steel tanks, al is not dense enough, like your skill with the lathe, just learning myself, have a great day!

[@DudleyToolwright]

Very True. I just was looking for any excuse to turn something large. Cheers.

[@davidl9410]

The shop I work in gets up to 105 degrees and sometimes 100% humidity. That’s jumper weather my friend.

[@DudleyToolwright]

yikes. That is a literal sweat shop. It can get over 110F out here, but when it is the relative humidity is in the single digits percent. Most importantly is that low humidity helps me avoid rust on my tools. I feel for ya.

[@lepompier132]

Next time you turn an air cylinder. do it in reverse. the saw side on the side of the chuck 3 or 4 jaws and the thread nipple with a live center. Close to the chuck you turn a 2 inch for the roller of the steadyrest. and after you flip it and turn the inside properly. Oh and a bell made with an air cylinder look better with the round portion.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Valuable insight, thanks. My wife shares your opinion about the round portion. I tend like rectilinear features, but what the heck. Thanks for the comments. I appreciate them.

[@ianpendlebury3704]

Enjoyable video - you are not afraid to take on a challenge! I did find the choice of yellow lettering for your on screen annotations a bit hard to read though.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I never know what color text to choose. White seemed to wash out. I did use a black border to enhance contrast, but I guess I have to try something else. I really appreciate the feedback.

[@ianpendlebury3704]

Maybe the lack of contrast between the turquoise of your lathe splash back and the yellow lettering? Anyhow, please keep making your project videos.

[@MaturePatriot]

Great video. Lots of stresses causing vibration. A challenging experiment in turning, and threading.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. Did it just for the challenge. I had a lot of fun and learned a lot.

[@MaturePatriot]

A great video to show how a lot of the stresses are introduced into the metal of the tank: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6C3fGSsmLVlZqc

[@davidwright640]

I never knew those tanks were that thick. Makes sense.

[@DudleyToolwright]

That was my take when I saw it for the first time.

[@trickcyclists]

I think you might have missed an important point about this.. Didn't you say the metal is aluminium? It's too soft mate. It'll never 'ring' like a true bell, but will always sound sort of 'damped', if you know what I mean. To make an analogy, regarding the softness.. would you try to make a bell out of lead? Do you think it would ring? Bells need to be at least as hard as planished copper, (pure or annealed copper is, again, a bit too soft, brass is better, then the various bronze mixtures etc, (which are much harder), to get any true resonance. It's no accident that most bells are made of bronze. Good effort, though, I enjoyed watching your video, well done.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. You bring up a very good point and something I was a bit concerned about in the back of my mind for the entire project. To be completely honest, I was more interested in how to make the final shape than I was in the end product. Thanks a lot for sharing. I appreciate you taking the time to help a guy out.

[@erik61801]

wow those are thick, good source of stock.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Pretty impressive when you consider that a solid chuck of aluminum is heated and pressed into a die to for these tanks.

[@Daniel-vq9zb]

Awesome project, should look into AC for the shop, I just bought a mini split ac system for myn a couple weeks ago and its been great, and it was pretty affordable

[@DudleyToolwright]

I bought a large portable unit and it could not touch the large poorly insulated space. I have not looked into a split system. Perhaps I should. Sorry about the fan noise.

[@Daniel-vq9zb]

@@DudleyToolwright didnt realize your shop wasn't insulated.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Yea, it is an old house and I had to move in in a hurry 20 years ago. I threw up dry wall quickly and moved in a bunch of boxes. I regret the rush, but I still like the idea thanks.

[@jondoes8222]

Your top of the bell is deadening the bell. If you would have drilled holes in side about 2 onches down and run a leather string through the holes like a wind chime it would have rung better. I make farm bells from aluminum and use iron real bell patterns and mine come out pretty good and really ring.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was and am really new to bell making and really appreciate the suggestions. Thanks for taking time to comment.

[@jondoes8222]

You should get some furnace bricks and make you a sand casting foundry. I love to make the bells. You can buy an iron bell like a small farm bell and use it for a pattern and cast in sand molds. Play sand and bentinite clay powder mix works well as a binder. You can also use a cast iron pot and the aluminum will melt inside the pot without melting the iron pot.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the suggestions. While I know absolutely nothing about forging, I am really intrigued by it and might just give it a try. Thanks for the ideas and encouragement.

[@jondoes8222]

There are you tube videos of bronze bell castings but only ones i see in aluminum are small hand bell size. I cast a 16 inch farm bell last summer for a good friend. They do ring but not as much sustain as brass or bronze. It takes less heat to melt aluminum than the 2 metals i mentioned. Look on how they make the sand flask boxes to form the sand molds in That will help a lot. The Swiss bell makers use tound pipes gor the mold flasks and they work well. You would have to cut off 8 or 10 inche pipes taller than the bell itself by say....4 inches higher than the bell pattern for the flow of aluminum to fill the mold cavity. You make a core by pressing the sand inside to shape the inside and a cope (pipe) to pack sand around the outside of bell pattern. Weld dowel strips and drill holes after bending the ends in L shape. Then use steel rods for the dowels to slip through the holes. Set on rods and get a pipe about 1nch wide after hou packed sand around the outside of pattern and around the pipe on top of pattern Mke afunnel in the sand. Pull pipe out and lift the core from the dowels you drove in the ground. Remove the bell pattern but first tap it to loosen the sand inside. Put pipe flask back down as it slides down the dowels.Then you ready to pour the mold. An impty space shaped just like the bell shape will be the mold. The metal fills the empty space and forms the bell.

[@robertpontius5269]

I make wind chimes. The secret to a nice tone is two fold. The top needs to resonate in the harmonic or it needs to be neutral. I would have left the original top on the tank and then hung it with and insulated wire, such as plastic coated stainless fishing line. Try it without the threaded top. The second item that affects the tone is the length of the side. Look on Google for wind chimes and you will see the length of pipe needed for "C" or "A" or ???. Pick a multiple of that number so cut that number in half or 2x or 4x the length. You will find that the best tone will be when you find the length you want and it is a harmonic of the diameter of the tank. Diameter is 8.75" and the length is 17.5" (2x) or 26.25" (3x). enjoyed watching.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the detailed suggestions. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out.

[@joni22262]

Are you in Florida? I ran the machine trades apprenticeship program for Volusia county and the county to the north and west. After seeing this I wish I had access to the shops I used to have. I have an unlimited free supply of tanks. Would love to find a partner of your caliber.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Sadly, I am on the opposite coast. You are a lot closer to Abom79 - Adam Booth. Cheers to anyone who trains the next generations. I thank you for your irreplaceable contribution to soceity.

[@joni22262]

@@DudleyToolwright thank you for working in such a much needed trade that needs to stay here. I miss being in the shops.

[@sparkey4293]

That old scuba tanks looks very cool but dosent sound so great. you could drill more holes in it then wire it up with a light inside and then have one awsome accent light.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I like the idea thanks and you are spot on about the sound. This projects was more about finding an excuse to turn a large cylinder...

[@from-the-land-of-noah]

Right now, you are getting odd resonances through the threads. Try welding the cap into the body and it should ring nicely.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. That was a very interesting insight. I will definitely look into that. I had originally added so many threads so that I could see if moving the top piece would change the notes. I figured that Iif I liked a particular sound, I would weld it in place. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

[@michaelgehlen5910]

When you parted the head off it let the tank relax. Pipe does the same thing when you split it down the side.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for the suggestion. If I ever make another, I'll take your advise.

[@azinfidel6461]

There are formulas for finding the tone of a rod / bar / cylinder .

[@DudleyToolwright]

I had no idea. Thanks. I'll look for them.

[@scottburrous2375]

So much of the machining technique I disagreed with but then, everyone has their own method. The thing that impressed me was no dye and scratch cut for the threads!! Everyone Ive seen on YT always does the dye and scratch like they don't trust their lathe to cut the threads they set it for - really? Ive never had a lathe that didn't cut D threads when I set the A, B, and C levers\knobs or whatever. It just DOES.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I would love to hear any suggestions you have. I am a rank novice and am pursuing these projects so that I can learn something new, especially this one. I did not really care if the tank rang at the end, I just wanted an excuse to try turning something large. The fact that is was hollow and probably highly stressed only made it more interesting. I was taught in school to always double check the threads, but I figure that if I double check the levers, that will be about the same. Thanks for the input.

[@biggseye]

FYI that tank was rated at 3000 psi and may have been cycled 1500 times. Also it was heat treated

[@DudleyToolwright]

Interesting. I had no idea. 1500 is the average times a tank can be refilled before retirement? Thanks.

[@biggseye]

Retirement is based on the results of the hydro test. If it fails the hydro test it can not be filled. It might fail after 500, 1000, 2000, or more fills. I do not know if it is still true but I was told by the rep of a tank manufacturer in the mid to late 80's that 1500 was average. I do not know what it is now, but you have made me curious...

[@DudleyToolwright]

Interesting. I was aware of the hydrotesting, but thought that it was possible that there was some sort of refill number cutoff regardless of test results. Thanks for the follow up.

[@illumiNOTme326]

@@DudleyToolwright - I'm pretty familiar with high pressure cylinders and have been working with them for years. The cylinders don't typically have a set number of times they can be filled. The hydrostatic test which I'm sure you're aware of now fills the tank with water at twice the rated pressure and measures the flexing of the cylinder walls. Aluminum while it can last long is not as robust in my opinion as the steel cylinders. I have steel ones that I fill that are over a hundred years old and still test out perfectly fine. The wall thickness of that scuba tank is definitely much thicker than aluminum 20 lbs and as others have pointed out the characteristics of aluminum change especially after you heat the material it'll soften it. The other thing to consider is the length and thickness of the aluminum will definitely change the tone. If you decide to try something like this again I would recommend 20# steel cylinder if you can come across one they aren't that expensive.. The aluminum has a much sharper tone where as the steel has a longer lasting deep sound. Great video btw.

[@SteelBuckeye]

Would a heat cycle have released the tension? It was work hardened right?

[@DudleyToolwright]

I think you are correct, but it would not fit in my kiln. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@apistosig4173]

I'd really like a good view of lathe rest you are using here coz' I need / want something just like it.

[@DudleyToolwright]

There should be one in one of the videos I made on making it, But there might be better approaches than I took, certainly easier. Hope this helps.

[@DoRC]

I wonder how that od would look using a vertical shear tool. Those things leave a mirror finish in aluminum

[@DudleyToolwright]

Vertical shear tools are on my list of things to try. They supposedly work on very difficult materials, but each pass, according to what research I have done, should be limited to a couple of thousandths max. This would make them great for the final passes in difficult to machine materials like cold rolled steel or 4140 CrMo in it's annealed state. Thanks for the ideas and the comments,. They are always appreciated.

[@DoRC]

robert weitkamp they are definitely worth a look

[@rickeycallen]

Couldn't you have turned down one section to round enough for your steady rest to run on the work on the rest of it?

[@DudleyToolwright]

That is a good point. This is my first use ever of a steady rest. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@markh2128]

I only deal with steel never aluminum, But I do believe if you had annealed it beforehand you might have had at least half the headaches you did. Cool video non the less!

[@DudleyToolwright]

You were not the first to suggest this and I suspect that you are correct. I am fairly new to machining and I expect that an good understanding of metal movement only comes with experience. I am working on getting some and your suggestions are very helpful. Thanks.

[@Contango1000]

Maybe there is a correlation between all the vibration you removed during turning and the lack of same at the end. That bell sounds like a dying camel, no offence. Great video though :-)

[@DudleyToolwright]

Dying camel! I love that. It really did turn our poorly, acoustically that is. Thanks for the comments.

[@jameswarbrick9168]

Might it not have been better to heat the tank to relieve the stress in the material prior to turning

[@DudleyToolwright]

I wish I had thought of that. At a minimum, it would have been an interesting learning experience. Thanks.

[@derekwilkinson7939]

Good video. Enjoyed that.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks.

[@curtwarkentin6167]

I have several scuba tanks in my basement but doubt I'll chop them up just yet lol loved your video very interesting project and was cool to see a dive tank chopped up.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I really learned a lot and had a great time doing it.

[@marvincarvin1846]

Well, like my ole daddy used to say, "Sometimes good ideas aren't". Great machining project & video, tho.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Yea, I really had no idea how to make a proper bell. I was mostly looking into having an excuse into turning a large (for me) diameter part. It was a lot of fun and I learned a lot. Thanks for the comment.

[@johnzudans7724]

I think the heat of the cut distorted the tank plus residual stresses

[@DudleyToolwright]

Good observation. I am sure that those issues played a part in the massive distortion I was seeing. Thanks for taking the time to let me know what you are thinking.

[@MikeG-js1jt]

I had no idea how thick those tanks were....

[@DudleyToolwright]

Me either. When I got the tank from a friend, it was already cut open and I was blown away at how thick the walls were. The base he gave me to make into an ash tray for him and it was almost 2" thick. Those tanks are really something.

[@charliestovall9953]

would you like to know how to get the best sound?............................................................................JS*

[@DudleyToolwright]

Yes I would. I am always happy to get some constructive critisism.

[@michaelespineira3608]

Heat cycle the tank to relive the stress, than the ring will sound sweeter.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. Useful suggestion. Heat to relive stress I presume?

[@NavinBetamax]

@@DudleyToolwright ......Yes.......It is very angry....so....Distemper it......Lol !

[@michaelespineira3608]

yes, also to normalize the aluminum and soften it.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks.

[@lepompier132]

That cylinder was damage that would explaine the deformity.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Could be. It was in really rough shape when I got it... Cheers.

[@adap2it]

You would have been wiser to grab on the OD for the 1st operation...

[@DudleyToolwright]

Good point. Thanks. This is one of my first projects and had even more to learn then, than I do now. Say that fast 3x...

My wife buys small ones of these and the larger the diameter the longer the tube. I think for the diameter the tube is too short fir it resonate properly.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I was making this "bell" as an excuse to try and turn something large. I had hoped it would ring nicely, but that part didn't turn out too nicely, but I did learn a lot and the community was extremely helpful with suggestions, like yours. They are always appreciated.

Thanks for saying my suggestion was helpful if you look on amazon;-www.amazon.com/Extra-LARGE-Resonant-CHURCH-Windchime/dp/B00AOAC5C2/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1515270960&sr=1-7&keywords=large+wind+chimes. The diameter of chime should be 10 feet long.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Very nice. Thanks. I am the one who should be appreciative, you took some personal time to help someone you have never met. Cheers.

You share your skill of machining, explaining how to do things.

[@mateuszorluk3131]

Great work, would you share tool codes for chamfer tools please ?

[@DudleyToolwright]

I thought I sent you this info but apparently something went wrong. My apologies. I will get you this info as soon as I can.

[@DudleyToolwright]

The tools I use for chamfering are S08k-scxck2 for inside and mcmnn2020K for outside. The outside cutter come in two varieties with the same part number but use either the acute or obtuse angle of the insert. Useful if you have other tools that only use one side. I hope this helps.

[@Romans--bo7br]

Dudley.... PS: Me again.... I forgot to ask you in my comment just a few minutes ago, what "Benchtop" lathe for the money ($1,400.) would be best suited for doing gun work? I'm getting into Airgun tuning and wondering what your thoughts might be on that. I do know... that I certainly do Not need a 3,000 lb floor model to do what I want to with a lathe.. ie: barrel work, making/reworking valves, etc, etc.... plus other hobby stuff of mine involving small parts. Also.... my budget is what I've allowed myself for a lathe.... however, I will also have need to make use of a vertical mill or Mill/drill machine..... and I have allocated Up To - another $1,200 for that as well..... but, being a rank amateur at lathe and milling machine work (you're an absolute Genius on the lathe, compared to me! lol : ) - the more I read, the more confusing it's getting to make a decision. I've been watching videos, reading reviews, etc, etc, etc..... till I'm cross-eyed looking at it all. One thing I guess that you might really be able to help shed some light on is... would I be better off with TWO Separate machines (Lathe & Milling Machine), or.... go for a "Two (or even 3) in One" combo machine?? Does the old adage of... " One machine made to do two things, and neither of them, very well".... apply to the combo rigs??..... or, am I much better off with two separate machines?? What might you happen to know of the "Smithy" Combo machines that have been around for 30 plus years or so.... and claim (like most of them) to be Thee Original, of which there have been and currently Are... dozens of "look-alike"... but inferior copies Of ??.... and apparently one of the Grizzly Combo models is one of the "knock-offs". I have a large pedestal mounted drill press, as well as assorted other bench and pedestal mounted power tools, including two Pedestal mounted Baldor metal polishing and buffing machines (1.5 and 2hp with 1.25" arbor shafts).... and I Do have the room in my shop for separate Lathe and Milling machines..... I'm just wondering if a combo has any Real advantages over separate machines, other than space savings?? Would there be things I could do with a combo in conjunction with each other.... versus not being able to with separate units? I also, as others have commented to you.... want to say Thank You for NOT editing Out the mistakes.... seeing them or the potential For mistakes that you brought attention to, has Greatly helped further along my "education" on machining techniques.... so, Thanks So Much for the honesty in your videos... it Really helps A LOT !!..... and thank you for the time you put in, in bringing these videos to all of us out here in YT land, who are watching and learning. : ) Looking forward to all you have to show us.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Firstly, I am a beginner as well, so take my recommendations with a grain of salt. To get some ideas about what you might need, check out Tom Lipton, at Oxtools. He is a superbly skilled machinist and a great teacher. I have watched all of his videos and I think you might be able to learn a lot. Also check out mrpete222, Joe Pieczynski, Stephen Gotteswinter, clickspring (he has a small mill and lathe), this old tony, and robrenz to name a few. These guys all really know their stuff, and more importantly can explain their thinking processes as they work. As to my recommendations, yikes. I have only used a few machines, between my own and the ones at the adult school where I took machining classes. I never recommend an all in one machine - you know jack of all trades and master of none. At your price point you might want to consider used. You might be able to get a whole lot more machine for the same money. If you decide to look at new, take a look at Grizzly. The owner of the company is a gunsmith and orients his machine choices to support that market. If you want to do only aluminum and brass you can get away with a lighter and smaller machine, but if steel is in your future, the extra mass will significantly reduce vibrations and make your finishes better. My machines were new from ACRA in Rancho Cucamonga, CA, but made in China (mill) and Tiawan (lathe). If you have to get a small mill, do not get a round column one. If you do, every time you adjust height, you will lose your x-y zeros, because the head can swing side to side. I had one of these before I knew any better. The lathe should be able to take care of all your planned threading needs. Some only have limited ranges and/or can't do metric threads at all. Mine will do metric, but you can't disengage the half nut unless you take special precautions. Both of my machines use 3-phase which I had to make with a rotary phase converter. I was initially able to use a variable frequency drive to power my mill, but was unable to do the same with the lathe. Lathes take massive start up current. I had to buy a heavy duty 10 Hp rotary converter to power my 5 Hp lathe - that was minimum. The 3 Hp mill would work fine off of a 3 Hp converter. If you get single phase motors that you will have to be content to take really light cuts and/or use only soft materials like aluminum, brass, and plastics, but will not have to worry about 3-phase power. If you are interested in accuracy to should try to find machines that actually list as a feature ABEC bearings. My mill spec'd ABEC 7 bearings. At some point you will probably want to consider Digital Read Outs (DRO) but you do not need them to begin with. Watch Adam Booth's videos, ABOM79. He is a professional machinist that spent most of his career using the hand wheel graduations combined with dial indicators. These are some of the things that come to mind. I hope it helps a little and check out those other guys, they have really inspired me, especially clickspring, he does fantastic work on a small mill and lathe.

[@petepeterson4540]

second time has to be a charm maybe this time the phone won't ring

[@DudleyToolwright]

I get better than 25x bogus calls on my home phone than I do real ones. Just the state of things these days...

[@MrKornhole]

Why no lube during any of your machining?

[@DudleyToolwright]

I do. I often use cool tool 2, but the carbide manufacturers that I have spoken to have suggested that, especially for aluminum, if you use the correct insert, you should machine dry. With aluminum I use lube to thread or to cut with a tool that doesn't have an anti-weld coating. Finally, I am far from an expert, so my choices may not be the best ones. Thanks for the comment.

[@MrKornhole]

If you like to use the air tanks alot try and find someone to do a stress relieveing for you before you do your final machining. Cool Tool 2 is a good lube go ahead and use it when doing any machining. Tool vendors are full of alot of hot air when telling customers about their product.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment and I have a kiln that I use as a heat treat oven, it might be big enough. I wish I had thought of this before I started, it could of made a really interesting video and I would have learned a lot.

[@royreynolds108]

@@DudleyToolwright I follow a number of machining YT channels and most of them use WD-40 or similar for aluminum. Also Anchor Lube for drilling and threading.

[@theflyingfool]

Sounds like a Japanese temple bell :D

[@DudleyToolwright]

You're right. I did not make the connection. Thanks.

[@guypatts494]

Nice job

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks.

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

Man your lathe is clean.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. One of my rules to myself is that I will never finish a project and leave my tools dirty. I am lucky to have them and attempt to treat them so. Cheers.

[@hughlink3122]

Could not hear much of anything, not loud enough. Good machine work

[@DudleyToolwright]

Sorry about that. I will see what I can do.

[@pejmanbhmanoff4387]

very . very nice and good [e-mail]

[@MaturePatriot]

I had the internal lap top volume set at 42%, and the youtube video volume set to about 33% and could here everything clearly. Check your settings. Hope it gets better for you.

[@seantap1415]

first machine a spot for the steady rest to sit on.

[@DudleyToolwright]

True. I did take a full skinning pass off camera. Thanks for noticing and sharing.

[@adamibrahim6273]

Good work continued

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. I shall endeavor.

[@watahyahknow]

mightl ve been better to start with cutting some grooves on the outside for the bearings of the steady rest to ride in and then making the inside edge mostly round and straight (should've create less tensions in the material and keep it more round during its build ) then do the finish on the outside last , once its done it doesnt matter too mush that it looses its shape , it might keep the total wall thickness just that little more compared to keep skimming the outside to clean it up every time you used the steady rest about cutting the outside grooves and the part vibrating there welding clamps available that buts two pieces of sheetmetal in the same plane for welding www.google.com/search?q=but+welding+panel+clamps&newwindow=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj63o-dgMHfAhXQZVAKHR4XC4oQ_AUIDigB&biw=1090&bih=510#imgdii=ky7MIKM8dZOIoM:&imgrc=VLBrgSRWl16NOM: should work on the taps too think the resonance is mostly caused by the tension in the metal (think drum skins that sound / resonate better when there tight ), you took the internal tension out when you cut the grooves in making the top a screw in acts like a dampener too , think if you take that out and hang it from a wire it might resonate a little better or create more tones gonnah be pretty loud , unless youre using a verry small hammer/ ball i think neighbours as far as three doors down are going to complain if you hang it out in the yard

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks for all of the useful suggestions. This was definitely my first attempt and I am sure I made some significant mistakes. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out.

[@johntripp2028]

Look up the word bell. Bell shape. You are making a bell aren't you. But keep playing with the lathe. I think that is your purpose

[@DudleyToolwright]

It is. Making a "bell' was an excuse to try and turn something large. Thanks for the comment.

[@croyce7699]

There are such things as tubular bells

[@skeets6060]

Old steel tanks have a better sound

[@DudleyToolwright]

Nice point, tanks (thanks).

[@bigrockets]

what do you expect? its a container not a bearing.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I didn't know what to expect...

[@danvandertorre9280]

try a heat treat make it harder

[@DudleyToolwright]

Good idea thanks.

[@danvandertorre9280]

your welcome

[@tutekohe1361]

"Definatlety"?

[@DudleyToolwright]

Hmmm....Thanks? Definitely.

[@yanwo2359]

I suggest you get out of the habit of touching chips with your fingers. Never mind. I see you started using pliers. :)

[@DudleyToolwright]

You are absolutely correct and the community was very quick to set me straight. I told myself the chips are only aluminum, but there is little reason to be lazy and the penalty is severe. Thanks for letting me know.

[@johnfry9010]

Good video , slitting saw might have worked better .

[@DudleyToolwright]

I thought about that, but I do not yet have a horizontal adapter. ...but could have done either side with turning the part ate all. I just realized that. Another thing I was thinking about was is the slitting saw going to be wide enough to allow both sided to ring without interference. I do have some thicker ones, but have never used them. This might have been the perfect opportunity. Thanks for the insight.

[@Resonanttheme]

I bought a couple of those 80 cubic feet aluminum tanks today to tinker with but noticed they don't ring nearly as well as steel tanks. Here's one of those cut bells that seemed tuned to some extent. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kHvJnZKirLytfdE#t=9s

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks, that guy does make really nice bells. Someone else pointed me there when I was complaining about the poor ringing sound from the aluminum bell. I appreciate the help.

[@Resonanttheme]

I guess the thickness plays a part too. I've a largish store-bought wind chime made of aluminum tubing and they really ring nicely. I didn't realize the top of the 80 cube foot tanks were so thick, this one made into a bookend. I'd like to get one threaded with a 1.25 or 1.5 inch npt thread but I don't know how to go about it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqekdaxsfNmrb5Ym25s

[@Resonanttheme]

This how it's made was somewhat illustrative around the 47 second mark .. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6C3fGSsmLVlZqc#t=47s

[@DudleyToolwright]

Thanks. Very informative.

[@Resonanttheme]

Around the 4 minute mark there's a formation that may be of interest. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m37Knn17lr6mbZI

[@ClownWhisper]

50% humidity is like an arid desert that is not how you midity LOL

[@DudleyToolwright]

I live in LA, more or less and 50% is nearly fatal. We expect hot days to be Santa Ana wind days with humidity in the single digits. I can take 115F if the humidity is low, 85F at 80% is brutal. Ok, I'm a wuss. I admit it.

[@ClownWhisper]

@@DudleyToolwright I live in mid Michigan in the summertime it's 92 to 100 with 95 to 98% humidity most of the time. I had a friend move here from Arizona in the winter she literally thought she was going to die because it was 20 below zero and in the summer time she said the same thing she says Arizona ain't hot this place is fucking hot because it was 95% humidity and then the 90s. People don't realize how hot Michigan gets they think of Michigan and think of it is a northern State that always stays cool I've had many many many people tell me that. That's why I laughed at 50% humidity in the summertime we think it's beautiful

[@DudleyToolwright]

I had no idea it got that hot in Michigan. I though So. Cal. was one if the hotter places in the US during summer, but we don't hold a candle to that. Yuk!

[@bisonsgames]

i bet if you had just left it hollow and didnt cut any slots in it, it would have sounded better.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I think you are correct. Hindsight is always 20:20. Thanks for the comment.

[@jetblueone]

I subscribed just bc intro music .

[@DudleyToolwright]

That's hilarious. Thanks. The intro is free music provided by musicians that donate to you tubers. Love the metal, in every form.

[@jetblueone]

Yes ... metal is the best

[@bingbingbongbong2615]

Sooooo much good work and time for a shit sounding bell. Next time sell for scrap and buy alu tube and make dozens. Lol.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Too true. It was really about the journey on this project, but I get ya. Thanks for the comments.

[@apelicaninthedesertbutnotl9161]

bells don't have flat tops. when you parted off the inlet you messed up the resonance. I just don't understand why you did what you did. waste of good material.

[@DudleyToolwright]

I was just looking for an excuse to turn a large cylinder and was having fun in the experimentation. Getting a nice sounding bell was only a secondary goal, one that I had no idea would be so difficult. Thanks for the feed back. I also agree with your take. I screwed up.

[@ClownWhisper]

Jesus H Christ you don't grab fucking shavings that are turning on a lathe I don't care if they're aluminum or not I just just just two days ago almost lost two fingers because a long curl was hanging down in front of my apron and I when I was turning the longitudinal wheel I didn't notice it wrapped around two fingers and almost took them off I'm totally laid up I can't even move them. It's just by pure luck that my fingers are still attached and you're intentionally sticking your hand in there grabbing them please stop

[@DudleyToolwright]

Again, you are spot on. I was reprimanded, quite reasonably by many, for the actions in this video. I have learned my lesson. Still, I appreciate the heads up and it is also useful for others to hear. I started making these videos right after I finished a machining course at the local adult school . Two years later, I am still quite the novice and appreciate those willing to take time to set me straight on the multitude of beginner mistakes I make. I appreciate the comments and hope your hand gets better soon.

[@dizzolve]

lol 44:31 close caption interpret

[@DudleyToolwright]

I thought someone had to enter the closed captions. I had no idea they were generated on the fly. Apparently they are as accurate as autocorrect. Thanks for the funny comment.

[@honeycuttracing]

Too much yack yack yack!!!!

[@DudleyToolwright]

Sorry about that. It can be difficult to get the balance right.

[@alir4864]

Too much out of roundness!!! :) good job

[@DudleyToolwright]

Indeed! Did I ring that bell too many times?

[@alir4864]

sorry i meant too much out of roundness mentioned but i actually believe you should try to improve the bell on another video.