Turning The Rear Radius Rods Into A Stock Styled Wishbone - Schroll 1932 Ford Coupe

[@oskawurmli9600]

I think I speak for the masses when I say, you have been our saviour during covid.

[@Mercmad]

Hes invented a vaccine?

[@RichieCat4223]

@@Mercmad I guess he did and it's going to be one of his giveaway's

[@raylarkin5004]

I like your idea of not making it all look like new rework. I can see also how this may not what you called the perfect solution, it does however fit your idea of it speaking the preexisting intent and that your ethic is strongly supportive of it on practice and nomenclature. (The kind of stuff I like) and the whole reason I watch (but not so much comment) every episode of it on trap garage! Thank you again Matt, it lubricates my brain and THAT, is really cool.

[@IronTrapGarage]

Thanks Ray! It’s fun for me to put myself in “tune” with the car and it’s soul and doing things to sorta mimic what someone could have done on it when it was built. Not everyone gets it but I’m glad some do understand this madness!

[@DependableAutoTruck]

i really respect the fact you want it safe and work good but try so hard to make it look like it was done years ago. really speaks for your dedication to the past with the safety of the future in mind

[@IronTrapGarage]

Thank you it’s a fine balancing act and definitely causes more work sometimes but it’s what makes us happy!

[@QuickSpeedShop]

Nice Job. I did a similar thing with a '42-'48 front wishbone to locate the banjo in the back of my '31 A coupe. I am running a T5 and went open drive on the banjo. I put the pivot ball right under the slip yoke on the T5 and added a "torque arm" link off the top of the banjo to the wishbone as well to prevent axle wrap. That is hidden by the frame. Even though my car is fenderless and tall '40s style it looks completely period from the rear or side. You can't tell there is an open drive until you climb under the car. It has worked great for over 6000 miles.

[@IronTrapGarage]

Awesome!

[@ronaldheit196]

Had to turn up the volume during the welding. Awesome tune Mike picked during his editing. Great job on that work Matt.

[@dennisc.1189]

Matt, you came up with a great fix for your problem, great job.

[@380.motorsports]

Kudos to you Matt for using gas welding and keeping this build a little more authentic. There’s nothing wrong with a good gas welding job although I expect that many modern day “experts” will not agree. But proper metal fusion is the goal and can be done with a torch. And its great too stay in practice! Love all your builds.

[@jamiecampbell3068]

That turned out cool. For what it is --> PERFECT. Good job on the cleanliness of the metal. Never thought that was possible.

[@62_C10]

Great old school approach to the issue and the tunes helped too - well done

[@steveclark4291]

Thank you for the update on the Schroll 32 Ford Coupe ! Take care , stay safe and healthy with whatever you maybe doing next ! Doing well here .

[@glennnickerson8438]

What a difference clean metal makes! It doesn't look like the same car. You certainly were the right guy to save this one Matt!

[@IronTrapGarage]

Thanks Glenn!

[@alanphillips4431]

Not a mechanic here, but as an engineer I noticed a little weak spot that can easily be fixed. If you weld a small plate extending the shock mount lower plate a couple inches to incorporate the bend you will eliminate ALL bending forces in the links. The links would then have only loads in compression and tension and be way stronger.

[@johnbehneman1546]

Old school engineering!!!! I LOVE IT!!!! This project is a work of art and a labor of love!!!! I am learning so much. !!!! Thanks for sharing.

[@thomasst.martin3308]

I'm impressed. Nice solution

[@briankinnear7461]

Looking really good. Always good to keep it old school.

[@FoxSpeedshop]

I liked seeing gas welding being done, nice to see it being as inkeeping with the rest, although better engineered

[@Knobstock]

That frame has undergone quite a transformation. Damn amazing.

[@chuckster6513]

Hey Matt, Not many people would put the effort into making the rear suspension look like it was built in a 1950's back yard garage, but I understand your reasoning. Early on you mensioned maybe installing a pan hard bay. Why ? The leaf spring maintains the left to right centering of the rear axle. Cool idea using the gas welding to maintain the old style, but it sure makes ya glad you can use the Tig on modern stuff. Be Safe, Well and Warm EVERYBODY

[@slowshop]

I like that you used the torch welder for period correct welds. I torched the roof back on when I chopped it. 🤗

[@Dadvictr]

Love all your work. Loving the music too.

[@russelltrupia4479]

Great job on that frame Matt

[@charlesherrick7400]

Great execution Matt.

[@jimandlinsnow7002]

It’s great that you are keeping the soul in it.jmho

[@IronTrapGarage]

Not everyone gets it but I also feel it’s important!

[@markcors949]

Good logic behind how you did this. thanks for sharing all the welding approaches.

[@ndeep45]

Good morning Matt. I'm not familiar with the old hot rods tips and tricks. But I do love all the "$hittiness" that your putting back into this car, preserving history is the classic thing to do! Double wish bone suspension is new to me, but who's sticking their heads under a hot rod at a show anyway? I really dig the way you are approaching the build very old school coolness.. plug welds.. ssh I'll never tell about the tig welds.. all for the common good 👍 also great way to start my day! Thanks Matt. "back in the day"

[@jackphilly338]

Hey Matt the chassis is really turning out to be pretty nice, I'm sure it will be a solid ride when your done.👍

[@michaelguinn5736]

Morning Matt, I find myself patiently waiting for your video's, even though I'm at work I still find time to do so. The Schroll 32 is coming along. Be safe....God Bless!!

[@IronTrapGarage]

Thanks for watching!

[@carsonanderson89]

Matt love your show... wish I wasn't caught up lol stuck in hospital "f-cancer" can't wait to see this on the road 😀

[@jons7771]

Stay well buddy. Positive vibes from seattle.

[@carsonanderson89]

@@jons7771 thank you Jon I'm in Seattle I'm from Arlington wa :-) 😀

[@jons7771]

@@carsonanderson89 My wife works for Fred Hutch/SCCA at the Lake Union campus helping cancer patients.

[@carsonanderson89]

@@jons7771 uw scca just finished having neck surgery for cancer

[@Ecosse57]

hey carson positive thoughts for you my friend. kick that cancer in the ass!

[@geofo60]

That’s a great work around what was a pretty awful setup and now looks like it was meant to be that way. I remember back in the early days of Jaguar IRS’s where the radius rods were installed straight (almost parallel to the frame rails & every time they hit a bump in the road, there would be a loud banging noise & the suspension would literally lock up. Real spine snapping experience as the car would jolt across the road. Different setup but same basic idea that the rods need to form a “triangle” or the suspension doesn’t work as designed to. Really enjoying seeing this old Hotrod being sympathetically re-engineered. 👍👍👍👍 from the 🇬🇧.

[@darrenmilford1573]

Can't believe that is the same frame that you started out with. Looking forward to seeing the progression.

[@jimsullivan2729]

Nice work Matt. From here it looks as though you will have to revamp your frame crossmembers for driveshaft clearance? Probably like built in driveshaft loops?

[@AndyGeesGarage]

Great solution and I really like the way you’re retaining the “shitty-ness” of certain aspects of the car. I wonder how many internet experts heads exploded when you gas welded the wishbone pivot to the angle iron crossmember? 😂 Keep up the great work and thank you for sharing with all of us here on KZbin👍👍

[@IronTrapGarage]

Haha yea it won’t meet modern sub-8 second Nhra specs but it certainly is strong and will be fine for a street car after all set and done.

[@hankhessig6586]

Morning, with the ball and socket right there - are you going to have to make adjustments to the driveshaft?

[@jimhartland1939]

My very same thoughts 😕

[@l33ta2]

Agreed

[@hotrodmyk]

Me too, how are you going to set (adjust, check) your driveline angle?

[@gordonhenagar6652]

Never really thought about the way all those hairpin radius arms and such don’t allow independent side to side suspension travel. Thanks for the enlightenment.

[@chuckstith838]

In the early days of drag racing the " rails" were gas welded and hung together just fine.

[@radtek2]

I'm 75 now and that's how I learned to weld 60 years ago .... I dont weld much anymore but I still gas weld when I do.

[@Dave_Boyer]

Very nice! 32 frames are a lot wider that a Model A frame. Looks awesome!

[@r1lark]

I'm waiting to see how you run the driveshaft!

[@MrGixxer1300r]

Same here just not seeing any room for it

[@Thefcbecker]

Me too!!

[@mikeseawel8359]

Me Three

[@alseidel5622]

@@mikeseawel8359 That was my observation as well Will the drive shaft bottom or rub on that crossmember the ball pivot the rear radius rods are attached too? Matt is sharp enough to figure that out but I would have thought he would have mocked a shaft into place just to be sure. But then he and you guys know better than me.

[@IronTrapGarage]

We’ll figure it out as we go. Part of the process of working around the old build.

[@craigcaggiano431]

Very cool way that you blended the Torque Tubes to provide a center ball connection to the frame

[@jongolliher3806]

Those were not torque tubes but the front of the wishbone. As stock, it bolts to the bottom of the torque tube. This has an open drive shaft so no torque tube to bolt to.

[@jamesford2942]

Using the ball socket design is my preference but I have also used a 3/4" single rod end for the same thing. A model A capture will work with a 37 socket ball. When I do open drive I will split the bone taking out about 1/4" kerf and stiffen it with 1/4" flat bar tapered to fit the bone then reattach the side that was removed. You don't have to run a torque rod if done this way. If you use stock rear bones then it is quite advisable to add a torque rod from the front of the wishbone to the top of the rear end. Just making sure to leave enough room for the driveshaft.

[@rickmayberry9639]

Good morning Matt

[@jerrylong381]

Hey Matt, I've always felt like gas welding was very close to Tig. Except the heat is instantaneous, with shielding. Anyway, thanks for all you do.

[@joell439]

Looks great 👍👍😎👍👍

[@KevinJohnson-fx6wq]

Looks good. I love reusing stuff. I saved my new landlord a lot of money when fixing up a couple of his aptments. I just had a thought pop into my head wondering if a gusset, 3/16" or so inside the front wye just past the joint & maybe even a couple gussets in side the rear welds. Sucks the shocks are there but might be able to come up with something to add a little support & stiffness if you feel it needs it, Just a thought. Thanks for sharing. I don't judge. I just watch & learn. It never hurts to things you shouldn't do as well, lol. I just some guys would think a little better not that I can judge as Ive done some pretty precarious things as well. Thanks again. I do learn a lot of good things from you as well.

[@CRUZER1800]

Its fun to see Gas welding again... like the old days.... Russ

[@johnkelly6942]

That was a nice repair. You might actually be able to drive that car when it’s finished!

[@kevinkenyon7045]

Amazing work, you make it look so easy. Taking your time and doing it right is going to make this car awesome. Thanks for sharing. Kevin

[@dennisgreen1649]

Great job which has become the norm,I am quite sure you have addressed adjusting the pinion angle when the time comes.

[@jongolliher3806]

Matt just set the pinion angle. :) It really isn't super critical as it changes as the suspension moves up and down.

[@michellerogers3304]

Looks like stevie wonder welded it with his feet.Nice job matt.

[@johnsecord9697]

Matt, The new wishbone looks good. Please check the wheelbase on both sides of the car. King pin center to rear axle center. I built a Model T a long time ago and did not center the wishbone ball correctly. The car wears out right front tires. I know your ball is centered, but check the wishbone length.

[@robertbrady9597]

great show great video matt nice job

[@johnbouwers6787]

Drinking game on, "back in the day"?

[@davidfleming6124]

Hi Matt, like your show etc, when your welding can you have a welding lens in front of the camera so we can see your welding process instead of a bright flash

[@russelljackson7034]

Right on

[@edwillett1358]

Good stuff Matt, Tnx for the video. 73 Ed

[@RetroGamingWithHopper]

Great job Matt looks awesome. I just worry about the strength at the pie cuts, angles are a weak link.

[@IronTrapGarage]

As mentioned I’ll be plating over those as well as welding them all up.

[@RetroGamingWithHopper]

@@IronTrapGarage Not trying to be one of those guys who thinks he knows everything just commenting on what I see and think.

[@vernonslone8627]

They had stick welding back in the day to...7018 works fine...

[@heatherrigby7371]

Hi Matt. Great Job!!! Please double check your ride height pinion angle after final assembly. I think pie cut reliefs can tilt up or down for a proper pinion angle??? More a question than statement my friend.

[@hpelisr]

I want to see how the Drive shaft hooks up?

[@IronTrapGarage]

In due time.

[@danielwilson6401]

Hopefully you are keeping u-joint angles in mind...

[@hgbarnes1584]

Liked and shared. Sure would like to know how old the garage you're working in is. See plenty of limestone slabs on the wall that are not fake. Thanks.

[@bobdupre3721]

GOOD JOB LOOKS COOL

[@gerrymilidantri6457]

Interesting way to center the rear ! Matt have you considered making a set of quarter elptic springs for the rear

[@jongolliher4280]

Why would he do that? All old Fords and hot rods had a cross leaf spring similar to what this has. It just has an open driveshaft banjo instead of closed. The wish bone ball also has to mount on the frame because stock, it mounted to the driveshaft housing instead.

[@gerrymilidantri6457]

@@jongolliher4280 because Jon quarter elptic springs are period correct and they will center the rear we used this methods in the 60s. The 32 has a late rear not a torque tube and tube shocks I appreciate what Matt is doing I am just suggesting another way

[@jongolliher4280]

@@gerrymilidantri6457 I don't remember quarter eliptic springs ever being period correct for hotrods even with later rear ends : ) : ) but perhaps you started a fad Gerry!

[@JamesDavis-to1hn]

Awsome rear tires!

[@johnwarkentinnikiskialaska8364]

Outstanding job 👍

[@MrGixxer1300r]

Matt will you be using a panhard rod to keep the rear centered? Do you plan to race this car at all?

[@robertjean659]

Nice work. What about the pinion angle on the diff?

[@oscartango64]

Looking good

[@davidgourdie3691]

Pinion angle going to interfere with the rear radius rod ball,binding etc?

[@robertwayne4373]

Great work thanks for sharing your friend for Canada Rob 😎✌

[@MrJeep75]

Nice job

[@jimoverschmidt8169]

Another great video. I love watching your fabrication work. I know you were dealing with the evils of a prior fabrication on this rear suspension; but I’m curious as to why you didn’t take it back to “original from the factory” suspension set up.

[@jongolliher3806]

No driveshaft housing (torque tube).

[@bigbird2100]

Great video 👍 Drive shaft gonna be a slip sleeve type to account for changes in suspension travel, loving the "shitty look".

[@IronTrapGarage]

Yes will be a slip joint in the driveshaft.

[@cranberry3257]

That may seem a bit loose in the turns the way you have it ,, Think about coil-overs instead of shocks , it should tighten things up a little .

[@IronTrapGarage]

Won’t be anymore loose than it was from stock. Coilovers sort of negate what we’re doing here trying to keep things mostly true to the period of the car.

[@dennissheridan8836]

Matt, they did have arc welders back in the day, gas welding is so time consuming and not as good looking. You don't have to make a TIG or MIG weld look pretty either, just get it done and what ever it look like go with it, not to say do a junky weld but you don't have to do a stack of dimes weld.

[@IronTrapGarage]

And I can also gas weld stuff where I feel like it to make it true to period. I’ll build it to how it suits me rather than worrying about what’s quickest.

[@jimcollins3411]

Hello Matt , I am a recent subscriber and great i found this . I live in south west Idaho and am one of those old guys that grew up in the 50s and 60s playing with these old cars . I was around when the 56 fords were new cars and have one . My play car is a 35 Chevrolet standard sedan ,not stock . But i still like what you do with the old fords . Great to see the gas welding the way most of us did it back then . What kind of rod were you welding with it never looked like the old wire coat hangers or bailing wire which was a common thing to use back then . I'm trying to play catch up on some of the projects you are working on now . Keep up the good work i will continue watching . Jim

[@Losermachine35]

I woulda heated and bent the yolk a little more to make the wishbone a straight shot. Just be cosmetic mostly. Then take a speed holed plate and gusset the entire front half inside.

[@IronTrapGarage]

Lots of ways to tackle this and everyone always has a better way of doing things but this worked and is plenty strong.

[@michaelpage2428]

Love the music

[@ldnwholesale8552]

And for christ sake use the Mig for those heavy suspension welds

[@justdale1966]

I was wondering if you were going to weld in a V plate bringing the two bars together in front where the ball joint is 4 extra strength is that necessary or not necessary

[@Ecosse57]

Does the u-joint at the trans output have to line up with the ball and socket joint pivotpoint?

[@andrewevans1658]

Did you check the pinion angle before you started to make sure it is something you can work with instead of working around it later?

[@pappabob29]

How about tying the two crossmembers together (angle to original) with a couple of short pieces right behind where the angle braces go to the perimeter rails??? Simple and would really re-inforce that angle iron that is pulling the whole car around.

[@IronTrapGarage]

Yep that’s the plan of some sort.

[@stevemason6850]

Any thought on a upper torque control arm since the torque tube isnt there to prevent housing twist?

[@KS-cp6bj]

You have potholes in Pa?

[@crusherj3535]

Where did you get that large vice with anvil horn? Is there a maker name on it. Been looking for something like that

[@jamestretten3046]

Hi Matt, I was trying to see what Tig switch you have on the torch. Is it on/off or a wheel type?

[@charlesmdoc]

Very cool. I liked the description of how it works along with the demonstration .K.I.S.S.

[@scottmartin356]

Love the awkward details that support the old plans, but support the new ideas, duh 🤣

[@shanewright6958]

It turned out good 👍👍🇨🇱

[@bill6262]

I really enjoy your videos. I disagree with your evaluation of the rear suspension using the front radius rods. early bronco used the same setup on the front, and those flex like crazy off road. Granted there is some rubber around the front axle tube, but it is a very similar idea.

[@dennisschickling5759]

Nice Video. #STAYSAFE

[@beware-9977]

Can’t tell from the camera angles but it kind of looks like that wishbone will conflict with the driveshaft. I’m sure you considered that.

[@EVILDR235]

What is that rear end out of ? To me it looks like a 55 or 56 Ford SW rear end.

[@joealbert7773]

I didn't see you do any measurements to insure that the rear axle is square to the frame.

[@IronTrapGarage]

I’m sorry we don’t show every single detail we do in a video.

[@tooltas]

i would do a truck bar 60s c10 rear or home made ladder bar

[@shotsrodder]

If the wishbone setup was better why did they split them back in the day 🧐 I thought it made the car more stable 🥺 love the gas welding I also like the look of brazing when left bare and cleared .Build is going nicely 👍

[@IowaMercMan]

One reason they started splitting wishbones or building hairpins was because they were lowering their cars. Bringing the car down and keeping the original. wishbone mounting point can create a caster issue, and also interference of the wishbone with the frame, starter, maybe the oil pan.

[@waynespyker5731]

The I beam front axle absorbed some twist back in the day of split wishbones. Many hairpin radius rods opened after breaking their welds during competition promoting the opening closed by sheet metal. The more rigid rear tublar axle housings resisted twisting, hence the factory torque tube triangle rear suspension designs permitted twist and whine. Gas welding back in the day was all there was for the most important fabrication, personal aircraft fuselages.

[@jongolliher3806]

@@IowaMercMan Those are the usual reason, front and or rear.

[@craigfriedrich1503]

Hmm, what does this mean for the future of the swamp mercury?

[@xozindustries7451]

Was the rear wishbone from the swamp Merc too long to use the entire piece on this car, I was surprised you cut it

[@gregworkshop5713]

hi guys looking very cool

[@paulhunter359]

why is it when you play the music it's so loud I listen to you talk and whenever you start playing music I got to turn it down

[@peterhaan9068]

@Randall Johnson Could be on your end. Check to see if you have 'bass boast or h bass' enabled on your audio card. If any of those are on, turn them off and see if you still are having a problem.