Tutorial: How to Sew A Welt Pocket With A Flap

Welcome back to another tutorial! Today we will be tackling a welt pocket with a flap. I’m very hopeful that this will make sense, but if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to leave a question in the comments!
Mimi G’s sewalong for her S8749 Jacket includes a welt pocket with a flap: • Tutorial for Mimi G Ja...
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[@maryjackson5906]

Wonderful tutorial. I did so many welt pockets in the late 80s when I was sewing a storm and wore "serious" jackets. This is a great refresher as I am getting back into garment sewing. I've been tempted with this pattern, and may well make it after your excellent instructions.

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s so kind to say, Mary! I’m just so glad you’re finding the tutorial useful!

[@kerstinshadbolt1003]

Thank you, Whitney! A brilliant tutorial taking the fear out of sewing (and cutting!) a welt pocket. Time to have a go!

[@sadiejosiemom]

I'm not sewing along but am storing your tips for the future! You do such a great job explaining things. Thanks for doing this and hope it's the first of many!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad you find it helpful and easy to follow!

[@michelleyoung7364]

Thank you for the wonderful tutorial. Your instructions are very easy to follow.

[@marshadimond441]

Great tutorial, Whitney. I made my first welt pocket years ago in a medium-wale corduroy. I was pretty proud of it. I shudder now to think how that thing actually looked. Not afraid to try again now. Thank you.

[@TomKatStitchery]

😂 I’m sure it looked amazing!

[@jonathanunger9]

Oh my god this is the best tutorial for welt pockets with flaps that I’ve seen. My blazer pattern’s “NO FAIL! TRUST US!” instructions are awful-just minimal details and drawings that are too small to interpret. Safe to say I’m throwing those instructions out and will be using this video instead. Thanks!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad to hear this!!!

[@judym414]

You're doing such a great job! Funny thing...I bought this pattern several months ago but hadn't yet made it. Imagine how pleased I was when I saw that this is the jacket you've chosen for the sew-a-long. I'm a bit behind in the sewing part since I'm waiting on my order of P-P interfacing, but am watching as you go so I'll be ready. Always been intimidated by taking scissors to the garment fronts to slash open the pockets, but you have given me courage. :)

[@TomKatStitchery]

That is a scary step, but having a couple under your belt certainly helps with the courage!

[@janlattimer5006]

I love watching your machine sew. How wonderful to have your threads clipped and auto back stitch! You made this look like I could do this.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad you’re enjoying the tutorial. It’s really not as hard as it seems once all the steps get broken down!

[@annaholliday161]

Enjoying the videos! Waiting on larger pattern, am using smaller pattern directions to follow along. Like your lining, have always used poly lining that is not as slick. Think this will make more comfortable.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I love the slippery bemberg rayon. It makes moving so much more comfortable!

[@bethcooley9224]

What a great tutorial! I am not ready for this yet on my sewing journey but ..I know where to find it. I lived see how the pieces all went together to make such a perfect pocket.

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s the idea! I’m very hopeful to eventually build up a very nice group of tutorials for people to follow whenever!

[@erikayuille4691]

I like inserting a flap through a double besom! Would suggest using a left cording foot for close stitching. If you press the pocket over your ham to mimic the curvature of your hip, I think you will like the results. Also, show your audience the usage of the clapper for crisp edges. Pinking interior S/A's will prevent seeing edges around pocket bags and facings on the front of fashion fabric. Great tutorial!

[@TomKatStitchery]

Thanks, Erika! These are great tips and I probably should have used the clapper more! Thank you so much for the feedback!

[@MaryWatson-p8b]

Thank you so much for your fun, clear 🎉instruction! Love you Whitney🎉😊.

[@TomKatStitchery]

You are so welcome!

[@Penguinandpear]

I did a welt pocket recently on the Opium Coat by Deer and Doe. I think they look more complicated than they are - anyone too scared to try one, dont be - this is a great tutorial Whitney x

[@TomKatStitchery]

I completely agree with you, Claire! It isn’t hard. You just have to go step by step and then hold your breath when it’s time to cut into the coat front 😂.

[@Penguinandpear]

@@TomKatStitchery haha yes! x

[@debbarber1890]

I am loving your jacket tutorial, excellent welt pocket demo.

[@joanneblair2087]

You just saved me. Working on a Burda pattern, no dots or not he’s and the instructions were sparse to say the least. The markings on the pattern piece were even too long for the flap. Thank you.

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@sonialorenzo9223]

Awesome tutorial. I can tell you could do this with your eyes closed. I think I’m going to try it and see how it goes. Thank you so much for taking the time to show us how you approach this task.

[@chattykathy5313]

Make sure you take your time constructing this pocket if you are new to welts. My advice is to practice on some scrap material first as once you have cut your jacket and find you have made a mistake you will be buying more fabric! Great tutorial thanks

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s really great advice! I should have said something in the video!

[@sallydingle321]

Fabulous tutorial again Whitney 👌💝😘

[@TomKatStitchery]

Thank you as always, Sally!!

[@bethnorman3484]

I bought that pattern and I plan to make a jacket so I will watch your videos to make sure I do it the right way

[@peachesc8700]

Great sew along, had to watch twice. Still waiting on my pattern to get started. My Joann's was sold out 😖

[@lktp7208]

When you trim off the edges of these pieces I noticed that they could fray. My fabric is the same way. I surged them, then I cut them and I used fray check and its not fraying. Will this cause me issues by using the fray check.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Fray check should be the perfect solution! I use that quite frequently. You should be good!

[@Nursebarbrn8520]

I know this tutorial is two years old but I found it when trying to figure out the welt pocket for this pattern. Despite cutting all my pieces for size 16, C cup, my welt, flap and pocket pieces seem wayyy too big. The flap extends to the edge so doesn’t allow for any seam allowance at all. Any thoughts?

[@TomKatStitchery]

Is the fact that the welt gets sewn over the princess seam throwing you off? The welt line is partially on the center front piece and partially on the side front piece. You sew the welt after those two are joined. It can be a bit confusing to look at the pattern pieces when you haven't done one before.

[@michelleyoung7364]

What is the name of the marking tool you used ?

[@TomKatStitchery]

It is a Frixion pen by Pilate. I put an amazon link in the description box, if you’re interested!

[@maryjackson5906]

Just wondering why you didn't shorten the pocket when you realized that it would be so close to the seam.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I didn’t realize it until I was sewing it up and shortening the pocket would have meant having to shrink the flap which is a little more involved. I knew I could make it work in the end. I’m often problem solving as I go along 😂.

[@maryjackson5906]

@@TomKatStitchery Wonderful reply! I have to keep that in mind when I am getting back into the details (i.e., challenges)