TwoTrees SK1 - Unboxing and First Print

[@3DPrintscape]

Here is the video on setting up Cura for use with the SK1. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJ-ciKOlnL2qntk

[@blackcanyonmodelworx6060]

ordering 1 of these in the next cpl of days. Any idea what nozzles these use so I can order some to have on hand ? Thanks

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. Here is the link to the nozzles they use, im sure you can find them on amazon as well. qidi3d.com/collections/x-plus-3-accessories/products/x-max-3-x-plus-3-x-smart-3-copper-plated-nozzle?variant=41521847894156

[@airheadbit1984]

Did they provide source so you can compile and update the firmware?

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. They didnt.

[@brandoncyoung]

Hey rob thanks for the great video man!

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi, You're Welcome!

[@charlesrestivo870]

Nice video waiting for next one

[@3DPrintscape]

Thanks

[@ThePrintHouse]

I would love to see a more detailed review from you. I have had a wonderful experience but I heard some people had issues with this machine.

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. I will work on that for you once ive used the printer more.

[@ThePrintHouse]

​@@3DPrintscape Awesome!!!! :D

[@crankmosh]

so it doesn't have load cell detection for auto z offset thanks for the video

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. No, and you're welcome

[@menchelke]

I still don't understand why 3d printer reviewers don't use feeler gauges they are way more precise. Then you aren't guessing your z offset with random thicknesses of paper. Thanks for the review.

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. Ive thought about getting one just never really needed it.

[@dekurvajo]

I have tried. Feeler gauges are too small, and you can not band and move back and forth as you do with the paper. Actually it does not matter if the paper is 0.12 or 0.08 or 0.1 what matters is the constant distance/offset then to use that offset for the initial layer. Oh yeah. And you have to measure the paper thickness always

[@geauxracerx]

@@dekurvajo yes they can. If it can’t move back and forth the nozzle is too close. Every single one of my .1 feeler gauges have obvious shiny streaks from nozzles running back and forth across them to determine if Z offset is correct.

[@menchelke]

@dekurvajo there is just no way measuring paper thickness and using paper which can be depressed easily is as accurate as a .1 or .08 or .12 feeler gauge, if it to tight to drag your obviously to close. I get it, everyone has some scrap paper. I'd look at feeler gauges as a necessary tool for any kind of additive or subtractive manufacturing. Same with torqing tools.

[@ashleywhitehead3710]

Probably because there is no need to. Paper works just fine and everyone has access to it. Rather than having another tool to buy. Even with a feeler gauge your still going to have to do a first layer test print to dial the height in. If a feeler gauge had have been used to set the z offset in the video the first layer would still have been too high because there is a textured pei sheet on the printer so it would have made no difference, worse if anthing. Using paper resulted in a better first layer due to its ability to conform to the surface texture. Get the nozzle to roughly 0.1, pull the paper and drop it by another 0.03. run your first layer test print and fine tune as the print is running. That's setting z offset with textured pei.

[@Exxon358]

I ordered it, the printer does not print, it crashes randomly on Emergency Stop "MKS-THR timer too close" A month of communication with the manufacturer so far without result.

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. Sorry your having issues with your, hopefully they can get it fixed for you.

[@josipsarkanj9065]

I think you are the only one complaining about the spoolholder on the side

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. I have seen it come up in a couple other reviews. Im not really complaining about it as it does work. I guess the point i was trying to make was it may not be the best location in some spaces.

[@spacegomine]

Hey, my Z axis won't go down anymore because i updated the firmware that was on this tuturial of yours: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYC0c5eKor6Ugbs (i tought maybe you wil see this on the latest video faster)

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. Is your z stop connected? It needs to be with any of the newer firmware.

[@ronsone8373]

Stop doimg test prints in white please

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. Fair enough, i didnt really want to but thats the filament they provided for the test..

[@graphguy]

I enjoy giving the opportunity to see 'new'... But this looks like nothing new, just another 'wanna get in the corexyz game'.

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. I hear what your saying. There are a lot of this style printers coming on the market. Overall, i like them though.

[@Firstleaker]

Pretty brutal to watch this video. Didn’t really cover anything. Lots of rambling at the beginning. Then setup was wrong. You don’t use card stock to do a Z offset. Didn’t tram the bed, do any input shaping. Then wondering why your printer was printing in the air. All you have to do is use the filament load and unload. Don’t need to home, heat, and push into the extruder. Printing 3 onboard files is hardly a review. Maybe watch a couple of the current videos out there on how do get your bearings on how to put some effort into product reviews. Just being honest here.

[@3DPrintscape]

Hi. Thanks for the feedback. This was meant to be just an unboxing and first print video along with my initial thoughts, its not a full review by any means. This video was already 20 minutes so i wanted to split them up. The next video will cover connecting to klipper remotely, setting up cura, and kicking off prints that I sliced with the settings that will be covered in the video. I'm aware that just printing whats on the USB card from them doesnt really show much. I have always used card stock when setting my z offset because thats what most people have available. The instructions they provided said use a sheet of paper. I have another similar printer that has a leveling card, i used that and got the same results. I did run the shaping as well, though that was in the video but need to go back and check. For the load feature, i preheated the nozzle a head of time so that i could push the filament through. I guess that i could have just hit load and waited for it to get up to temp then pushed the filament to the extruder but that part is still needed since its a direct drive printer. The filament needed to get to the extruder for the printer to be able to do anything with it including load it. The only issue i had with the printer was the z offset thing and it wasnt really a issue, just needed to know how to work with it. Once that was corrected the printers were good like i mentioned towards the end of the video.