UGLY WOOD TO DRYWALL TRANSITION!!! (How to install Tear-away Bead)

[@donlindell1994]

such a good video. The audio was great, camera placement was perfect. editing was really well done. I really appreciate the work you put into these. You are so easy to watch and very imformative

[@seanp1602]

Don Lindell I second this, very to the point with just enough explaining.

[@fxm5715]

I had no idea that tear-away stuff existed. One more useful trick in my pocket, thanks to you.

[@jackheilmann3739]

Never seen it

[@swrconstructioninc.1158]

It’s made by Trim -Tex

[@stephendee7839]

@@jackheilmann3739 I've tried to find it and where I live it's special order and I'd have to spend $50 for 100 8' pieces, of which I need five. So, I'm looking for an alternate method.

[@Simon78]

Same! I’m only a home/diy guy so always used what ever Bunnings/Mitre10 have here in Australia ... products like this or the angle with paper on the outside would seriously improve my results!

[@brendanmulhall]

More than half the products I use I was unaware of before Ben! The hard part was figuring out where to buy the stuff

[@RickStewart1776]

Be Me: Hate doing sheet rock work. Also Be Me: Love watching someone else do great sheet rock work.

[@jordanarmstrong4839]

I appreciate that whenever i have to look up any somewhat odd or uncommon drywall related issue, You have a video about it. Thanks again!

[@madcowusa4277]

This is what This Old House and their ilk could have been - actually showing every step in detail instead of useless general overview. Fantastic video.

[@bpccmath251calculusiihitch4]

16:28 (The sanding pole slides all the way to the bottom of the stairs.) Anyone who works with tools know exactly what that look says. Laughing my buns off! Thanks for some great info.

[@kll815]

BPCC Math251 (Calculus II, Hitchcock) 2017 Loved that look! I usually have that look at least once a day...lol

[@GARDNSOUND]

that killed me :D

[@d.c1652]

That was hilarious I laughed for the rest of the video.

[@Homelander-js9hd]

That was hilarious, thanks for pointing that out, I missed the first time.

[@brandonpayne4000]

Tear-away bead... Who knew. I’ve been fighting these types of jobs the hard way for years and always unsatisfied with the outcome. Thanks for sharing as this is honestly the most helpful tip I’ve gotten all year!

[@Gloria-ss9mq]

Regarding bubbling of your second coat of mud: There are a few things you can do to help eliminate this... The bubbling is caused from the painted surface...not from the Crazy American All Purpose Mud. If you sand the painted surfaces first, before applying any drywall mud, this allows the moisture from the mud to penetrate the surface better, instead of returning to the surface, causing bubbles. After the first coat is dry, you can dampen the first coat with water using a sponge and then apply the second coat while the surface is still damp. Or the method which I prefer and use most of the time is to apply the mud, pull it off tight and then re-apply the finish coat...essentially the pre skim coat dampens the first coat before applying the second coat. This helps eliminate 85-90% or more of the bubbling. One further note: when using quick set mud over a painted surface, sanding the surface first in these situations also helps the quick set mud cure more evenly and adhere better. This is especially important when working over enamel or glossy painted surfaces.

[@DistanteInstante]

As he said, his work along with the opinion of others make this channel very informative and ptofessional. Thanks for your input

[@Blingdung]

Good advice for sure but it's definitely the crazy american all purpose mud

[@planktonus]

@@Blingdung yeah, we Americans like advice from our snow Mexican friends

[@kirkdunn1379]

100% the painted surface causes bubbles.... If you put mud on wall and let it sit a few minutes then wipe it the bubbles will disappear sometimes

[@BIGPROWLER]

Can vouch for all your recommendations..Whatever you do don't spackle the holes , they sand at different rates. I often spackle holes after my primer then sand and spot seal the spackle spots.

[@tracys2354]

I still get mesmerized with watching mud being applied and removed so easily and effortlessly!

[@richardpellis]

Tear-away bead works great around windows where the drywall butts up against vinyl windows. On tract homes contractors just caulk the joint but in my experience they always crack. Caulk is cheaper of course, but doesn't look professional. I used Tear-away in a remodel where I paid a contractor to tape and float. I installed the Tear-away to ensure the corners would line up. Despite him assuring me he had worked with tear-away before, and me demonstrating how to use the bead as a knife guide, he totally botched mudding the flange. After 2 attempts to get him to clean up his mess, I paid him for work he had completed and sent him on his way.

[@dhammer5645]

This video saved me on a job. I don't do a ton of drywall and had forgotten about the tear away bead. The job required me to widen a bulkhead into a textured ceiling. So I used the tear away bead to finish up to the ceiling, it still left a little gap where the texture was going up and down but I just ran a thin bead of latex caulk in there. It looked great when it was done. Thanks Ben

[@chartle1]

I used to work in an office in Class A office downtown in a semi major city in the US. All the interior walls had what I thought was a very weird construction. The drywall didn't go all the way up to the ceiling. At the top there was this black track that I thought was part of some wall system. What they did was paint the top channel for the metal studs black and then stopped the drywall about an inch short. They then used these beads at the top of the drywall to give it a nice finished edge.

[@markrowland5393]

I think I would cheat and cover the joint with some nice, neat wooden trim.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

That would be the easiest.

[@king49334]

I put wood filler

[@bribart402]

hahaha. that's what i was going to say. tack on a flat wood trim. but i think he was just trying to show us how to use the drywall bead.

[@markrowland5393]

I know. I was just teasing.

[@Johnnychuffchuff]

Trim is for hiding poor craftsmanship.

[@weremodel]

Thank you for the video. 61 and still learning.

[@joemeyers4500]

I cut up the tear away strips into 4-1/2 or 5 inch lengths and use them for door hinge shims. They work great.

[@mpxz999]

When you do this, do you leave the notched end of the bead inside the door frame?

[@dienekes4364]

This is cool. I've never thought about this scenario before. I used to HATE working with drywall. After watching this channel for a while, I really dislike it, now. LOL

[@luchache6961]

I use those around 1 piece baths and showers it a really clean look, it wont rust and easy to seal with dap or whatever sealer you prefer. I use that pretty much anywhere drywall buts up to another material or to finish the edge of drywall that will be showing.

[@keithpond691]

I would suggest using a wallpaper seem roller to set the glued trim. It adheres best with 25 lbs of pressure using contact cement.

[@anthonygriffin1147]

Nice tip, thank you.

[@kenkingsflyingmachines2382]

I would work with you in a heartbeat. Expertise and humility is such an attractive combination. Thank you for posting. I'm smarter for it.

[@jlitwiller]

Your videos have been a huge help on my bathroom remodel project. This one in particular was exactly what I was needing for how to finish the edge of my drywall around the shower. And we all know the feeling when the tool falls down the stairs. The look says it all.

[@douglasullman9777]

Good stuff I didn't know John Mulaney could drywall ! Renaissance man.

[@shelaghcorbett2387]

Hahahaha

[@JOEGGGJOE]

16:35 🤣. Great video. Never knew tear away strips existed. Thanks.

[@chriscox1671]

Love the channel. But the look you gave when the sanding pole went all the way down was priceless. Been there before.

[@amycopland4883]

Right now I'm looking at a slowly widening crack in my dining room wall between drywall and a wooden beam. I've avoided trim because I like the simplicity of the two different materials, but now I know how to fix it so it looks clean. Thanks!

[@tomruth9487]

I use slightly angled cuts on the bead where the holes are instead of 90 degree cuts. This way you make sure the bead doesn't push against the other pieces when you install it in the corners. On really fancy work, I use a belt sander to miter the bead part of the bead at the corners also. This works especially well with metal beads where it's hard to make small adjustment cuts with a snips.

[@1965JB]

So from your videos I’m getting the impression that the weather in Vancouver is always perfect! Very informative stuff, I could have used your knowledge many times over the years. Keep up the good work!

[@chickenluverful]

Your face at 16:36 was priceless...as the sanding pole scurried down the steps lol

[@stargateproductions]

Hey, I also spray both the drywall and the bead. I really dislike staples, if I have an issue with the bead being proud of the wall, I'll use drywall screws. Staples will eventually fail, like nails! Love the video!

[@jiffy1313]

Hey Ben, finisher of ten years here. I find that if my first coat bubbles a lot(it always does coating over a painted surface) that if I tightly skim my second coat and then Immediately re-apply the coat that it helps prevent that coat from bubbling again. I love tear-away for these types of applications, looks great! Thanks for the video.

[@1965JB]

I always thought the bubbles were a result of my bad technique! Hate those things.

[@2-old-Forthischet]

I'm watching because I'm thinking about removing the trim molding around my doors. I've seen some videos of this product and process and find them very helpful. One of your competitors mitered the corners of the tear away to line up the pieces.

[@edover50]

Thanks for showing us how to tear one off Ben. I’ve always used J channel and will give this a go. Smiled at seeing the Canadian tire needle-nose pliers, laughed at the pole drop and look forward to the next one as always.

[@samv2783]

Way back in the old days, we only used metal L bead or J bead. The first time I used tear away bead was in the early 1990's on a commercial job on partition walls up against the existing suspended ceiling. I was a little leery of plastic bead but that job changed my mind.

[@mediasmoker]

Great product, great job on every video detail! Reminds me of "zip strips" we used for stamped concrete, which is a V strip inserted in place of making saw cuts before the concrete cures. After the strip is set, you just peal back the top edge, which leaves a V strip impregnated in the concrete. As it cures, a fine hairline crack is created so you don't have to make ugly 1/4" saw cuts everywhere, breaking your stamping pattern. You can still see the cracks, but only noticeable if looking directly down on them, not from an angle. Also saves time, no dust & no heavy saws being dragged around.

[@Gloria-ss9mq]

Additionally, regarding your use of contact glue for application of plastic beads...the contact cement is only adhering to the top surface of many layers of paper. Through movement the top layer of paper can be ripped off with the bead. Stapling helps hold the bead in place better to withstand any movement. This is especially evident when using Magic Corner in studio ceilings. Plus the manufacturer recommends both.

[@fatfreddy3449]

Sometimes I feel bad for getting all this info for free! Ive been doing drywall jobs wrong for years. Although, they always turn out nice. Imagine if these videos were around in the 80s; I would be an actual professional years ago! Thanks for the vids man. Keep it up.

[@WayPastCrazy2525]

Well.... That can be remedied.

[@adrianjohn7166]

You can send him money If it makes you feel better.

[@fatfreddy3449]

Idiots

[@wwz1011]

Im using L shaped instead of tear away on a joint between sheetrock and brick. Looks good. I've learned a lot from your videos! Thanks!

[@robertlaw4073]

I have had good results with L-channel and a flexible caulk - my go to is something called "Alex" which is not too expensive and it's paint-able. Anyway, I run the corner of a knife down the other side of the L-channel to push in / scrape away any compound that got over the edge of the bead. Then when everything is dry, I run a bead of caulk in that gap and smooth it just normally. If there is some compound left in that joint, it's not exposed to air/sun/etc and doesn't crack I guess. Or the caulk just binds well enough to the channel and the wood that it doesn't matter. Anyway, it works good when you have a few of these to do. If it was a small job and not worth a whole tube of caulk, I'd probable try the tear-away bead, which I never knew what it was for. So thanks for this video. One more suggestion... cut away all your ends at 45-degrees, you'll never go wrong then regardless of which piece you put on first.

[@GARDNSOUND]

The look at the camera when the sander pole slid down the stairs cracked me up! I know that feel!

[@DaddyBear3000]

The decorators who worked on my mother-in-laws place taped the wood then caulked the joint. It’s been a couple of years and it still looks clean with no cracks.

[@dster230]

I just did this on a whim to a customers house. Previous carpenter left an ugly gap between a piece of trim and the wall going up the side of the stairs. Good to hear its holding up long term!

[@jarivera79]

One of the best tips I've seen. Now I have a new project.

[@jleigh330]

Awesome use for this stuff is adding a new wall when you have an existing textured ceiling. No need to interrupt the ceiling just caulk it with a high quality paint able caulk after your done priming.

[@jamesmchugo9422]

This is just what I’m going to need! Doing a basement finish and was planning to have a wood shelf on the transition between the lower have of the wall and the upper half in the stare well, the lower wall is 8 inches thicker than the upper half. Did not want trim molding between the wood and drywall. This solves my problem. Thanks for the video. 👍

[@ameliemorton9849]

Thank you this was an excellent instructive video, clearly done by a professional willing to share his knowledge, I am most grateful

[@matthewsaltzman5573]

Awesome vid!! Didn't know tear away existed! Especially liked when the pole ghost rode down the stairs! Hahahaha!

[@sawdustadikt979]

This is so good. I’ve had to teach myself how to do all this taping stuff. I have learned by seeing how this stuff fails that contact adhesive fails. That could from user error most likely. The system I came up with is to use a narrow crown stapler and staple it every 6in. On bump fire it goes quick. I make sure to set the depth so it’s tight but not breaking through the vinyl and I use 1in depth staples to hit the framing. As a measure of no call backs, I’ll also run a layer of fiber tape over that. I’m sure it’s me being paranoid but my intention is to do the best I can. After seeing this, I think I can skip the fiber tape and instead do the first coat with the glue in the mud. I wont mess with the glue till I can see it done in person, I’ve repaired hundreds of feet of outside corner, inside corner and tear away that the glue failed. So that’s why I don’t use it. But I’m still open to learning. Any technique is only as good as the one wielding it.

[@GodsArmy87]

I love your videos, but I staple my zip bead on. 3m spray works great. Also works good with arch bead, but I still staple it as well. I've never had a problem. Again I watch you all the time. Your content is good.

[@HBSuccess]

Been drywalling for 40+ and have never seen that bead used - and have never used it, prob b/c our suppliers are still in 1970 mode - metal bead and green lid mud LOL. But I will now order from Amazon if necessary and give it a shot.

[@DiscoFang]

What I'm lovin' about this vid is the knife on hawk fusion. Hybrid stylies.

[@dustyandsneezing]

When your sanding pole fell down the stairs I laughed so hard 😂

[@nicpedia2432]

Wonder if this would be a good alternative to the metal J channel put around the edge of drywall as it butts against a shower wall. The metal J I use makes it so I have to shim the drywall out a fair amount. The shower wall nailing flange is already 1/8" to 3/16" thick after the screw/nail heads, adding the metal J makes it almost 1/4" of shimming done to the studs so the drywall lays flat and doesn't crack as it is screwed tight.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

It would be a good alternative. Especially because it is plastic and not metal. More water resistant.

[@onik.8716]

that moment when your tool slides down the stairs LOL we've all been there, loved that look at the camera!! I feel ya!!

[@drpepperbaman]

My wife keeps asking me why it takes me 10 to 20 minutes to do my business... I told her I have Vancouver syndrome. Great videos and learning a lot here in the states. Oh and that crappy mud is probably imported.

[@robertray3746]

we have been using tear away beads for over 30 years in commercial construction first it was metal then later the plastic came along. We usually just spray glue it on never had any problems

[@ancientwestonian]

I wish I knew about these sooner! This would have been good for a house where the owner wanted liner trim on the windows and doors with no face trim. I had to flat tape the gap between the rough edge of the drywall and the side of the trim. This would have helped make a clean edge.

[@gravelcreekfarms3850]

I learned something new about drywall from the carpenter

[@1965JB]

Wish I’d seen this video years ago! Thanks man, great videos always.

[@DBS6567]

i doubt i could get that tear away bead in the uk. though i do have an excellent suggestion for you though, mirka do a hand sander , not eletric or anything just basically a sanding block that has thier abranet mesh, with a tube for an extractor, but i use just a regular hoover, (henry) no need for a mask, easy set up and sands fast no clogs, etc. in the uk it's £30, worth every penny. i'm going to see if i can find theat bead your using, i can already see from your video how handy some of that could be, thanks for sharing.

[@jamesr.1175]

Thank you for the video, you might have solved my problem. I have been wondering how I was going to do the transition where the drywall meets the wood vaulted ceiling. Yes, I am a noob, thanks to your video's this work is possible.

[@jessechaney931]

American drywall taper here. Heavy AP mud doesn't finish great, on the last coat I always use Green Dot Topping compound. It lays super flat and sands incredibly easy.

[@bigcheetah987]

+1 for that look when your sanding pole rattled down the stairs

[@Bamaoutdoors]

Thanks for sharing! I've got a outside corner where sheetrock will meet a wall with shiplap so I was looking for something for that transition so I may try this!

[@spelunkerd]

Nice to see how a pro does this, thanks for the demo. I would have used a wooden flat molding to cover it over. Easier but probably not as nice looking as you did it. I wonder how the plastic does with the seasonal shift in temperatures near the window. Presumably OK in Vancouver, ha ha.

[@sandymilne224]

Agreed. A wood trim piece pin-nailed to the wood only (able to float over the drywall) would be an option.

[@mikehickey420]

another great video.. also never knew that tear away bead existed.

[@jamesbuchanan2840]

Great video. Thanks for the info. Didn't know about tear away bead. Keep up the good work.

[@djsgamingnight150]

Learned something new today better then just caulk.. ty buddy

[@allent555]

Great Video, wonder if there is a way to use tear-away bead on existing drywall that has been finished with orange peal? Like in a remodel?

[@JamesDutka]

I think I've watched enough of your videos to warrant a subscription. Plus that little awkward look at the camera as the sander slid down XD

[@84eurospec911R]

You can mix in a few squirts of dish soap to reduce/eliminate bubbles in the all purpose mud

[@tomking3942]

You might want to do a video on the types of beads and knifes types and equipment. I saw lots of bead types when we went to get corners at the supply house. As a first timer the clerk just looks at you and asks what kind? Then I say what do you suggest? He deals with pros all day long that know what they want. They are little help sometimes. They will let you look at them. Just a thought.

[@jessicajennings671]

Hi Ben, I have another wood-to-plaster cracking situation that could really use your excellent advice! Here in New England we have a lot of Victorian houses with wood corner beads. I love the wood beads - they are softer than modern beads and are just cool! Do you have any suggestions on how to deal with repairing a crack between these wood corner beads and the plaster wall that abuts it? I would love to preserve the wood bead, if possible. All the online advice I see is to tear out the old wood bead and use a modern alternative. I MIGHT be able to create an 1/8" opening between the bead and the plaster wall to use the tear-away bead option, but is there any other way? I guess I could caulk but that will fail sooner than later, I think. Thanks for sharing all your excellent skills, experience and teaching with us!

[@kerryoconnell5203]

Always looking to improve my sheetrock skills. Great video! You explain everything and demonstrate how to properly do everything and what not to do. Could you do a 45 degree cut in the corners where the Tear Away Beads meet?

[@freakontr]

Great video. I plan to install a door frame that will be flushed with the drywall when it's done, as if it's one piece. Do you recommend the same bead or would the L-bead be better? With the tear away part in place, how would you get it so that when it's torn off, it's flush with the wood frame?

[@stargateproductions]

Hey Ben, Vinyl bead does usually take three coats, it's pretty normal. I like it for its strength vs paper faced metal corner bead

[@pcno2832]

I've done joints like this by just cutting a 3" strip of drywall with a very straight edge (multiple scoring to avoid chipping), putting just enough caulk on the window-side to avoid it bleeding out, they screwing it to the framing, taking advantage of the flexibility of the narrow strip to conform to whatever warpage the window frame might have. I could then treat the joint on the other side of the 3" strip as a butt joint, but one could also cut the tapered edge off a new panel to avoid taping over a square edge in such a conspicuous location. The advantage of all this was that I didn't have to go buy another trim piece and doing it was less complicated than explaining it. It looked fine, but I have no idea if it would be more or less cost effective than a tear-away edge if I actually had to do this for a living. I also suspect that it would be harder with the "ultra-light-weigh" bubbly drywall that some use today than it was with the stuff I was using.

[@adams3112]

Hi thanks for all your tips. What makes the mud bubble Thanks

[@jeffdavis9738]

Great video, I always enjoy, and usually learn a few new tricks!

[@mrvvoo]

Can you paint (prime?) the plastic edge that is left exposed on the tear away bead? I’m redoing my fireplace with a modern drywall look (don’t worry, it’s an all-enclosed gas fireplace, so no fire code concerns). I feel like this bead is the ideal solution I need for where the inside edges of my new drywall surrounds and butts up against the outside frame edges of the fireplace box. My drywall is a bit thicker than the edges of the fireplace box that the drywall rests against. So the drywall actually has a bit of a “reveal” effect. I think that the reveal will be thick enough that caulk, alone, will not cover it completely. Ideally, I don’t want a visible white plastic inside edge reveal that contrasts with the paint we use to color the surface of the drywall. I would like to paint this bead material the same color as the face of the drywall. We’re painting with a unique paint that is almost like plaster. It’s called Portola (a type of Roman Clay). I’m wondering if I could do all of the above with that finish.

[@shelaghcorbett2387]

Fantastic video. Just so well done and helpful. Thank you!

[@johnwardle9667]

I've never seen tear away beading in the UK. Interesting product though. I would tend to use a 'stop bead'. Which is like a metal corner bead, but it's flat. Gives you a flange to attach and a 3mm bead to skim up to..

[@jetah50]

my only suggestion is a lapel mic or a behind the ear boom style. some parts of the audio is low while others are fine. I haven't heard of tear-away trim before. so that was a neat tutorial!

[@ferenkmendez2083]

Thank you for sharing man...every video is really important to me.

[@sygad1]

that look when the sander dropped, said everything without saying a word

[@erics.4113]

I'm a 1/8" proud as well.. seriously though, thanks for the info I'm off to try it myself with USG mud as well

[@windya9593]

If you wanted to fill in the small gap left behind, would you caulk it? Or is that going to cause a crack over time?

[@KevinsDisobedience]

I use the pink adhesive on both the bead and the wall, and we staple with 1 1/4” staples. I agree stapling into just the drywall is not a good idea, as they could pop over time. However, I have seen the glue fail in small areas.

[@David7pm]

Nice job! I was sitting on the couch. Hahaha. Take care

[@272attwell]

How would you finish the joint between drywall and exposed wooden beams? The beams are exposed by about 2 inches from the surface of the drywall.

[@macoeur1122]

so much better than Sports or Jerry Springer.... I'm wondering now if this "tearaway" would work to join cathedral ceiling with ridge beam. There's an angle involved. Do they make a different type of tearaway edge for this application or is it handled in a completely different way?

[@coreyk2998]

If the project called for paint and texture, would you do that before pulling the bead away or after?

[@tykellerman6384]

Another good one Ben🤠👍

[@itchyblanket5508]

I have a drywall to wood inside corner situation. Can I just basically prefill that tiny gap sand it and paint everything?

[@mrharlemike28]

Great video, as always! Qas Lmfao with your reaction to the sander sliding down the stairs. 🤣. You rock!

[@jakeqwaninne8502]

i never knew what that t edging was actually for, but i ran across it just looking for something to use as cheap edge banding for some particle board shelves i have in a back room closet

[@christycurry2653]

That’s amazing! I had no idea this was out there! Thanks!

[@jw1731]

I have a somewhat related question; can I use spray adhesive to attach paper-based corner bead onto a surface made from masonite/hardboard tempered panel, and then use joint compound to skim coat and blend the bead and hardboard? Would I have any reason to think it might not last as well as with drywall? Thank you.

[@Rhaspun]

I doubt if I will ever do anything like this. But this was interesting to watch.

[@mattgloss8580]

Great job Boy. Dry fit comes handy Ha ha.

[@vboutique2188]

Could you use a corner beed that half attaches to drywall and half attaches to wood?

[@luckyme621]

What would you suggest if the drywall corner is rounded and butting up to wood? How would you close up the rounded gap then?

[@klehman4832]

I really hope you can answer this. We just had replacement skylights installed. There was no interior trim installed with it so my drywall ends about 1 inch from the edge of the skylight. Use this method; tear-away bead or just trim?