Ultimate Guide to Selecting a Home Car Lift

[@apollomedia7210]

Good choice and I think The Car Care Nut channel has the same lift. Best choice for small garages.

[@johnaclark1]

One thing you didn't mention is in reference to garage door openers. I installed the MaxJax MX-6 2 post lift in my garage with 10 ft ceilings. I actually moved my standard old Genie garage door opener from the middle to the side so I could have full rise on my lift. It's about 3-4 feet from the side of the door. The garage door opener works perfectly. It's off to the side, completely out of the way of all cars I lift, and I get full rise with most mid sized SUV's and minivans. With a large SUV like a Tahoe or something, they are still a bit tall and I can't get quite full rise. My garage is not long enough to lift a Suburban with the door closed, so I don't get full rise on those. Fortunately, I have 8 ft garage doors, instead of the standard 7, so it works out OK most of the time.

[@georgebonney90]

Alot to consider when buying a lift im glad you're happy with your decision, thank you for the information👍

[@eldoradony]

Very good video Matt. I have a Snap On scissors jack for the past 25 years. I Consider it the best single expensive tool I have bought. Never a day of trouble but it has its limitations by it's design as you have outlined. I too work out of my detached 2 car garage which I have air conditioned and heated. I noticed you have torsion springs on your doors as do I. I eliminated the height clearance issue of the opener by installing a Liftmaster 3800 opener (also known as a sidewinder). Now I am only limited by the lift, not the height of the vehicle.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Great idea on the door!!!

[@briancorrigan5350]

Thanks for the thoughtful review. 9 years ago, I went with a Harbor Freight Scissor lift and it has served me well. I did eventually swap out to longer arms as the originals were annoyingly short and would often be a stretch to get it to the jacking points. The longer arms transformed it. Also. I made some inexpensive 2x4 cribbing. Thing of a glued and screwed Jenga tower with a hollow center and you get the idea. These go under each wheel as a redundant safety. They also allow me to raise the vehicle on the lift, place the cribbing, then lower the lift out of the way for easier undercarriage access. Not ideal , but it works. You might also want to consider some form of safety redundancy with whatever system you use. And don't assume the mfr. has all of the adjustments dialled in. The HF scissor lift uses a bicycle brake handle and cable mounted on the "handle bars" on the pump unit to hold the ratcheting cam height lock out when lowering the vehicle back to the ground. The tension adjustment on the cable was too tight and prevented the locking cam from fully seating. A simple adjustment, but yikes. Hydraulic jacks will often settle over time. If I ever have a project vehicle up on the lift for an extended period of time - more than a day - I get in the habit of activating the pump to build up pressure, lift the car just slightly off of the cam lock, then release just enough pressure to fully engage the cam lock again. This way, if the cam lock ever fails, I know that the hydraulic pressure is just there to prevent the lift from collapsing. Last, but not least, I recently swapped in a jackshaft garage door opener that mounts just inside the door opening to one side. This allowed me to remove the overhead opener and rail. It can be a fiddly install as you are no longer acting directly on the door, but on the lifting cables through the shaft. No problem when going up, but if your overhead door rails don't have a little pitch to them , this could create a bird's nest of cable as the unit unwinds but the door doesn't roll back down to take up the slack. Adjust your door, lubricate your rollers and if all else fails add two inexpensive helper springs to push against the top edge of the door when it is fully open. A pitch adjustment to the originally sloppy install and I was in business.

[@iam1smiley1]

I got lucky and found an almost new 12,000lbs 2 post Snap-on hoist for ¹/⁴ of the new cost but one problem....it wouldn't fit in our garage 😄 It took us a year to get permits and we build our metal quonset with 9-12" thick floor to put our hoist on. A friend with a shop recommended a hoist technician on the island to come install the hoist and we had it inspected once since then because a cable got out of alignment. We seem to get a lot of heavy diesels to work on, so we're really glad we got a good quality unit! We've both seen vehicles fall off hoists at work, always pay attention and double check!!

[@schzx14]

Excellent video. And I agree with your thinking and comments. Really helpful. Thanks.

[@dtandfam8100]

Solid review Matt! I'm enjoying mine. Also, it comes in handy detailing. Getting the polisher on the lower paint panels is a back saver!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Good call! Yes I always detailed my vehicle on Jack stands to help save my back and do a more thorough job. this will be way easier. i actually plan on doing a video of how I do a 3-stage polishing of my car soon.

[@jamest5149]

There are mid lift scissors lifts that have clear access to the center. Some have a couple of tubes that run between them at ground level connecting them and for cable/hose management. These you drive over so have ramps… they are some of the best for your use, giving the height and access and due to drive over use they can stay in place but are moveable as required.

[@skrufii]

Before I found this video I did extensive research and narrowed it down to the same three options you had plus the scissor lift from Harbor Freight. I have a larger garage with a taller ceiling, but I'm very hesitant to give up any space all the same, so I made most of the same considerations as you and came to the same conclusion that QuickJacks were the way to go. I found your video and it helped me finalize my decision confidently. I struggle with making large purchases, so I really appreciate you making this video which reaffirmed my existing thoughts and opinions.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Oh man I am really glad to hear that!! You will be thrilled with your decision. In fact last year I bought a second set of quickjacks so I can work on two cars at once!!! My second set is the 7000lb version!!

[@KB3M]

The BendPak puts all the weight on four wheels essentially point loads and asking to crack your floor. The Stratus with its big base is immune from that and great access.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I thought the same thing. It seems the bend pack has pressure points at the corners only.

[@drewt9829]

You can put the garage door opener directly onto the garage door torsion bar at the wall. That clears up the overhead space.

[@markchidester6239]

This is definitely another show of the durability of the cool floor you put in. The car dolly really floored me, lol

[@SchrodingersBox]

Ah good point. yes that RaceDeck is indestructible!!

[@chrisrock5398]

Excellent review, Matt! I only wish you had done this eight months ago to make my decision easier. In the end, I am happy that I made the right choice for my needs, only to be supported by your thorough review. I ultimately chose the BL-7000SLX since it was on sale, which included the blocks, truck adapters, cross beam adapter, and frame extension. I wanted to be flexible, but the extra weight can be an issue when moving these things around at 96lbs each, and I went with the 120VAC over the 12VDC since running a rated extension cord was not an issue for me. The collapsed profile is slightly higher than the lighter models, but I haven't had any problems with low-clearance vehicles. I did not have issues with the system's bleeding as you unfortunately experienced. One problem (operator error on my part) is that when disassembling the system and closing the breather valve, there was one time I forgot to open this up. The instructions state that these lifts are indoors only and do not use outside (QuickJack's fear of rain and snow), but don't use with winds exceeding 60mph - that's some fan! I agree that having only two locking positions is short-sighted on QuickJack's part and should have been a middle position included at a minimum. Thanks again for your excellent channel and hard work putting it together.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks- great summary!! Yeah I also struggled with the 7000 vs 5000 but thought the 5000 just offered a bit more versatility. Good reminder on the breather valve. i don’t know why though couldn’t have worked around that- I leave mine open all the time anyway but it seems an easy workaround in design.

[@bartsarton2212]

Thanks for the review, Matt. I appreciate the time you put into this video. Lots to consider when choosing a lift. Pretty sure I will go with a full two post lift when the time comes. I'm 6' 4" and don't feel like lying on my back.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Glad it was helpful!

[@speedy_pit_stop]

Thanks for this. Lots of things to think about for sure.

[@dmitry7908]

A thorough analysis! Thank you for it. I don't think the cheaper price of the QuickJack outweighs all the futzing around with hydraulics, fine tuning it, dealing with glitches, adjusting, etc. MaxxJack is probably the only sensible way to go and is worth the investment for someone who fixes cars for a living. For someone like myself, who only does fluid change, hose replacements and brake jobs on my cars, I think I'll just stick to the floor jack and stands.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I agree however the thing with MaxJax is it takes up a parking space unless you take it down every time. I just drive right over my quickjacks so no space is sacrificed. Also with quickjack I can literally set up and have the car fully lifted in under 3 minutes even with some of the finagling.

[@jamesstafford9067]

Thanks for sharing brother Matt, we love you man.

[@SchrodingersBox]

I appreciate it!

[@OneLegged-honda-mechanic]

I love how your lift has open space all the way down the length of the floor! Have you seen my lift? It’s yet another option. I made a video on it entitled, “my mid rise lift after 8 years of use”

[@SchrodingersBox]

I will look at it now- all this time I never even knew you had a channel lol!!!

[@OneLegged-honda-mechanic]

@@SchrodingersBox ❤️

[@SchrodingersBox]

Really enjoyed your channel bro!! keeps me up a few hours for sure!!! Still can’t get over how high that scissor lift goes!

[@OneLegged-honda-mechanic]

@@SchrodingersBox I’m honored you took the time/ spent some time watching my little channel! Thanks 😊

[@alanjackson4397]

I have the M6 as well. I’ve had it in my garage for about three years it has I think six positions that it locks in with a max 48 inches. And I have risers that go up to 4 inches. I leave the posts bolted down at all times and just parked my pick up between the posts with no issues. I bought longer hydraulic hoses ran them up to the ceiling over to the wall and down to the hydraulic unit that I bolted to the wall no more hoses in the way. And just a note on the 20 amp breaker in all this time I’ve only tripped the breaker two times.

[@ifell3]

I guess flooring might be a consideration too. Depth of concrete to screw those posts in. I think you made a great choice there!

[@JohnDoesGarage]

I'm fortunate enough to have about two acres of property and I built my shop with the intention of installing a lift. Before I got my nursing degree I worked as a mechanic for several years which gave me the opportunity to use several different commercial lifts. I am still an ASE certified master technician, which means nothing except I am good at taking tests, and I have been spinning wrenches on the side in my spare time. Knowing which lift I wanted I built my shop accordingly. The main part is 20' wide, 25' long and is 14' at the eves. I extended one side of the building out 10' and is 25' long like the taller main section, but it only has 8' walls. Plenty of room inside for my 12' 9" Challenger CL10 versymetric 10,000 pound lift. After the lift was installed I ceremoniously threw my creeper in the dumpster. I paid $3800 for my lift installed but that was 20 years ago. Now I see they list for $6800, but still not bad for what you get if you have the room. You mentioned being 6' 5", my best friend is the same height, but I'm only 5' 7" and I'll have the lift set where I can work comfortably but he'll smack his head on it every time. Of course he makes the short MF comments about me and I make the big, dumb MF comments about him, although he is far from dumb. He is an NP but I was his preceptor when he was a brand new RN. But I digress, the lift you chose looks like it will serve your needs well within the confines of the space you have, but if it is at all possible, if you have the room and the finances, buying a commercial twin post lift is the way to go. I am able to pick up cars asymmetrically, which for those not familiar with that term, means the car is lifted with the posts forward of the doors so you can open the doors with the car on the lift. I am so spoiled it isn't funny, I admit it, but if I can't put it up on my lift I'm not working on it. Great video again, as usual!

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thank you! yes I wish I had a large property and I could just stack projects lol!!!

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I chose an Autolift 3000 car seesaw. I work outside on a gravelled area so that limited things further. It can lift 3t. My 2.2 tonne v12 bmw is not a problem. It lifts up to 600 mm. However it lifts across a length of sill not on the lifting points. Lifting takes a few minutes using an electric drill. A good battery drill is all that's required . The lift can be lifted and hung on a wall for storage. The see sawing means either end of the car ends up about 1200 high. The disadvantages are that the supports cover the sills and ballencing the car can be a time consuming. It's not suitable for body on frame vehicles. It cannot be left on the ground as you cannot drive over it. This means that you need a wide space on one side to place it under the csr.

[@InternetDude]

Great info. I'd prefer the MaxJack except it would be very in the way for my shop space. You have me interested in the jack you bought, I have seen them before.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Exactly. if I didn’t think I would constantly maneuvering around the post in the middle of my garage with a MaxJax I would absolutely get it!!

[@PhillyDee215]

I needed this video👌if I can't fit a full two post lift than jack stands is what I'll stick to bc every other lift or quick lift only goes up so far🤦‍♂️

[@SchrodingersBox]

Well after using Jack stand for 10 years I can assure you even my low-rise lift raises the car far beyond what I can ever do with jackstands. it’s still totally worth it even if you don’t get a full rise lift. 27” off the ground is super high compared to Jack stands!

[@PhillyDee215]

@@SchrodingersBox i agree😎

[@rogerkneeland4433]

Matt, I stumbled on your site looking for something else and enjoyed your thorough review of lift systems. I went thru the process about 2 years ago and ended up with the 5000 series max Jack . I couldn’t and don’t see how the scissor lifts are much use in working on middle of vehicle , such as transmission, drive shafts , gas lines , exhaust parts, etc . I have used the max jacks a lot ( by DIY standards) and some observations … I store them on the floor under a vehicle because they are heavier than I want to lift and hang on the wall. Living in a northern state (IN) the salt from the car is not good on the jacks 😢. I did add a set of four rollers under each jack to make them easier to slide into place ( that procedure is the only time consuming part of the setup) . The rollers are mounted on the “ elevation arms” so the lifted weight is not applied to them. I think that should be part of the design . All in all a good system . I would like a full post lift and I have pole barn but it’s not heated 😢. Generally I use them under the “pinch welds” with the slotted rubber blocks, I have used hardwood blocks and used them under the frame rails of vehicles like Jeeps and small pickups. Congrats on a great channel! R

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks and great comment about the pinch welds!

[@jasonmills4053]

I switched to Liftmaster MyQ “jackscrew” garage door opener and eliminated the central opener issue. You still have the rails to consider.

[@andyoverall1951]

Very helpful, thanks, Matt.

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

Really cool Matt! Delighted for you! I’d love a lift but they kinda freak me out a bit 🙈😂 I don’t have a garage anyway but I’ve always fancied a pit 🤷🏼‍♀️😂

[@SchrodingersBox]

Maybe one day! You are absolutely right about it freaking you out when you first use one. The first time I took it to the full rise position I was totally freaking out. i have never been near a car off the ground that high and it made me super nervous. but you do get used to it!

[@russdavis1960]

Nice video Matt. Approx. 35 years ago I had the opportunity to get a single post hoist for free with the understanding I fill in the hole after removal. Not a problem. Also the timing really couldn't have been better as I was also having my detached garage constructed when the hoist became available. I had the contractor build the walls 12' and to leave an unfinished 4' x 4' area of the floor open for the hoist installation. So far I've been very happy with my decision.

[@SchrodingersBox]

That is awesome!

[@nickf2678]

Nice video, very informative...thank you. Not a huge fan of any of the lifts you specifically covered, but just needed to mention something. When discussing the MaxJax, you mention that the 4.5" pad height might be too high to accommodate a Corvette...well, that company's demonstration video is using a C7 Corvette, which nullifies your statement. I can't remember the last time I commented on anything I saw on-line, but just couldn't help myself with this one. Nonetheless, keep up the good work.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Thanks. I wouldn’t say the MaxJax video nullifies my statement. I would say it contradicts it. My trans am has the same clearance as a C5 stock corvette and I can tell you for a fact there is no way there is clearance for a pad height that tall. My quick Jack is barely a fit.

[@jofprexus]

Matt, I bought the same lift 5 years ago, for all the reasons you brought up. When I ordered mine, they had options for 120V, 240V, and 12V. I don't know if that's changed. My laundry hookups are in my garage, so I plug into the dryer outlet.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes it’s exactly the same configurations still. mine is 120V. The only difference is the TL model which I think is new as of 2020 lifts 3” higher than previous model.

[@johnaclark1]

Excellent review. You hit all the points perfectly. I wish this had been out when I did my research, but I'd have come to the same conclusion. A few other comments for anyone considering the MaxJax...I commented already about moving your garage door opener to the side if you want more lifting room. I did that and it works great. In just over 3 years with mine I have never had a car I couldn't get the lift pad under. In fact, 98% of the time I use some 1-1/2" offset extension adapters on the pads to increase the height and give the pads extra lateral adjustment. I also sometimes just use some 1" tall pieces of 1-1/4" pipe to give me some 1" extensions to the included pads when needed. Before getting the offset adapters I used the short pieces of pipe for my own 08 Odyssey with running boards to fit under. For SUV's I use the 3" extensions that came with it and they work well. I have considered purchasing the 6" extensions but haven't really needed them yet as I don't do the bigger trucks that they would be necessary on. I do a car repair business and run a lot of cars through my home garage. I haven't lifted a Corvette or anything that is lower than normal, though. As for moving the posts, I have one that I leave in place and I often move the other one so my wife can pull her car in the garage. I leave the arms attached and simply dolly it over to the side next to the one I leave in place. It's only heavy when I lay it down to grease the carriage. Also, I mounted the pump to the front wall of my garage and ran the hoses up the ceiling and down to the posts so I'm not tripping over the hoses. I did have to purchase an extra set of hoses to do that. Sometimes I'd like to work on a second car in my 3rd car bay and have considered a QuickJack for that. My problem is where to store them when not in use. I'm bursting at the seams. Leaving them on the floor as you noted might be an option, though.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Excellent advice!!!

[@richardharris8777]

Matt, you don't consider a four post lift. To my mind, by far the best. I'll admit you dont have the room around the wheels, but having the platforms for tools and parts easily outweighs that. The ease of loading makes it so much more use able for smaller jobs when you just wouldn't bother the faff of two post loading. Unrestricted door access makes it a complete winner for anything other than pure brake servicing. Scissor jacks have some advantages but the scissor mechanism is a real pain, meaning you have to access underneath via the front or back, awful if you are using a rolling seat or creeper. I've had 2 and 4 posters at the same time and apart from wheel service. I would qlways use the 4 posters. Useful to remember too, a body lift will always leave the suspension fully extended. This often makes checking ball joint and suspension parts difficult as they qre held tight. Much easier with a movable jacking beam of a platform lift. Its going to cost you more, but go second hand. They are more reliable too so a better used choice.

[@SchrodingersBox]

yes all good points but didn’t include 4 post because I didn’t research them considering 4 post wasn’t an option for my garage due to the space they take up. As for checking loaded suspensions- I either just lower the vehicle on ramps or use a standard floor Jack to unload the suspension.

[@thadpaone7557]

Great video. I, too, went through the same analysis as you and came to the same conclusions. I bought the Quick Jack 7000XLT, since I have a truck that I work on. I agree that the unit needs an additional locking point, or two. One suggestion... The pads that came with the unit will crease and possibly crack due to the lift points on some vehicles. To remedy this, I purchased a set of four slotted pads; looks like hockey pucks with a slot down the center. These fit nicely on slotted lift points without damaging the pads. Thanks again!

[@thadpaone7557]

I bought the slotted pads on Amazon.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I already noticed the pads creasing. I normally use a hockey puck the I spotted with a grinder wheel and I will do that to the pads to create a pinch weld slot.

[@DependableAutoTruck]

great i have been thinking about getting one of the midlifts

[@spiridondimaris465]

Mat long time no see my friend good to see you back

[@SchrodingersBox]

You as well! Where you been??

[@spiridondimaris465]

@@SchrodingersBox as you know we had 2 years i dont know what things change so mutch with everything in this world very quite with everything, but i am glad to see you back my friend

[@andriosz]

I'm jealous, this is so cool :) Hope it will serve you well.

[@watchdogu.s.a.8973]

Matt, do you have a video about your shop flooring? I'm planning to fully enclose my already partly enclosed carport and want to cover the concrete. I think yours looks great and I'd like to know what it consists of.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I do! Check my channel for “Dream Garage a review”. I review the flooring in detail.

[@raymondjjones8093]

Hi like what you do.on your lift can you modify the locking/ safety support so that it it self is adjustable? Thanks for all you do DIY Ray 62 yr.

[@SchrodingersBox]

It would not be hard to weld in some additional stops but I am not a welder so I haven’t tried it. But it is just a matter of adding additional stops.

[@dougmaestas5643]

I have the Max Jax. Good lift, but like you stated each has it's pros and cons. I've never had a problem with it. Air seems to get in any lift system that allows you to disconnect the lines. I bleed mine frequently but it's a small inconvenience.

[@dougmaestas5643]

BTW, also in Colorado.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Agreed- I find I need to bleed mine every few uses and I agree it’s most likely from the quick connects. also I have already had to fill the compressed air chamber.

[@ourkid2000]

The other lift I have considered is those tilt lifts.... have you seen those? You lift the front up using a power drill and it can pivot the entire car end to end by hand.

[@nikovandh]

Is there one you could name so I can take a look at this?

[@SchrodingersBox]

oh yeah I forgot about those!!

[@ourkid2000]

@@nikovandh maxx Jax tilt lift I believe it is called.

[@reneneron2971]

Enjoy your channel and content. Was ready to buy a set of MaxJax during the cyber sales ($500 off) and recalled watching this video prior. Glad I re-watched it. The MaxJax minimum clearance requirement is too high to clear many of the cars I drive (specifically, Toyota MR2's, which even some low clearance floor jacks won't fit under). Further, I don't want to lose one of my bays and, as you shared, even though the MaxJax is "portable", they're not in a practical sense. It's a QuickJack 5000TXL for me, which I most likely will store on the garage floor (under a car) most of the time. Ease of use is key. If it's not easy and safe to use, there really isn't much of a benefit to having a car lift . And, don't worry, I'll be sure to verify that the GROUND of my electrical system is hooked up properly. I'm at the age and do enough serious car work (engine replacements, transmission swaps, fluid changes, etc.) that I am not denying myself a car lift any longer, and the QuickJack can move with me next time if needed (I purchased a large 4 post lift that I never installed and couldn't use at this house due to the ceiling and space requirements, so sold it at a loss).

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I am glad you watched it too! everything you said is dead on and I love love love my 5000TXL. in fact I am considering getting a 7000 for another bay. when not in use I just push them under the center of the car and drive right over them. they are totally unobtrusive and even if I wanted to move them off the floor I just hang them on the wall.

[@calholli]

I'd still be throwing a couple of jack stands under this thing too.. Just because

[@SchrodingersBox]

I was doing that at first!

[@jerrypeal653]

Nice 👍 I also have the quick Jack 7000# , have a car on it right now but that just means work doesn’t it , lol.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Nice 👍

[@DependableAutoTruck]

i have a good one coming to the shop 2008 tahoe the cooling fans will just come on during the night and run sometimes till kills the battery sometimes just run for a short time and stop

[@mph5896]

Thats strange. PCM grounding out internally/malfunctioning turning the fans on? Looking at the wiring diagram I can't see a ground short due to the pcm needs to latch the powertrain relay and the fan relay on different ground circuits to turn the fans on.

[@DependableAutoTruck]

@@mph5896 odd thing is sometimes it will be a couple weeks won't do it then it does it again and both fans are running. im hoping it will do it for me at shop hopefully can find something else that might affect it. for sure it will be a good one might try to record if i can get wife to help me

[@kevinbreaux6769]

Hey Matt , really learning from the videos! Having trouble joining premium . Says unable for some reason.

[@SchrodingersBox]

if you have issues just hit the “contact us” link and the admin will assist

[@alnov91]

❤️❤️ CAN YOU EASILY FABRICATE THE QUICK JACK LOCK HEIGHTS? I looks like yoj may be able to cut more locking holes in the base rails. The cams look dodgy, but its hard to evaluate from my arm chair. Also, in your scientific opinion, what is the weakest structural safety concern and or weak link in the system?

[@SchrodingersBox]

Great questions. yes you could certainly modify lock heights but it’s not holes in the frame where it locks- there are welded square blocks in the frame that the locking arm glides over when going up and catches on when going down. You would have to weld in a new “catch” point. Yeah the cams are a bit dodgy mostly because the lift seldom is in perfect unison on both sides so often one cam still hasn’t cleared the lock point when the other has. you do have to check it each time you lock the lift. as far as any weakness in structural safety- it would be lateral stability- that is, at full rise position I do believe you could push the car sideways and knock it off the lift if you really tried hard enough, and definitely so if you rocked it side to side and built momentum. but again this would have to be an intentional effort and not something I would worry about even replacing an engine or whatever.

[@alnov91]

Thanks. You have a great brain.

[@nikovandh]

Love this!

[@malcolmnicholls3376]

I once picked up a heavy manhole cover and the lid fell out on my toes. I was wearing SAFETY BOOTS!

[@DANIEL-ls5ku]

I’ve got a single garage the laundry is also taking up some space, I’ve got to use what I have.

[@Epro95]

Hey Matt. Do you think you could drop the engine in your trans am with a quick jack?

[@SchrodingersBox]

No question it could be done. To remove a an engine from an F-body you actually remove the car from the engine, not the engine from the car. The lifting height of the car therefore is the most important thing and you can easily lift it high enough for clearance.

[@Epro95]

@@SchrodingersBox i think I'm going to go with a quick jack! Thanks for the great video.

[@saywhat9158]

Not sure how you can fully understand garage length limitations where a single foot length is a consideration but not understand the importance of side access. This is the reason I was hoping your type of jacks would be able to be turned horizontally under the car to provide front and side access but even if the jack points moved to adjust for the width of the car, the 1 foot movement sideways might even be a problem in my tight garage.

[@markchidester6239]

That would be nice. Unfortunately only the back of the vehicle would raise.

[@joeberg9823]

How good does the quick jack work for vehicles that have completely rusted out pinch weld lifting points (Rust Belt Michigan). For example a 2004-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix. Would the quick jack be able to be positioned from inner frame rails of the unibody? I have never seen anyone review this situation.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Great question. i have used it on inner frame rails but the vehicle isn’t as stable. no way I would raise it to full height much less be under it in that situation. sometimes jackstands are still the best option on some vehicles.

[@joeberg9823]

@@SchrodingersBox Thanks for the reply. I have a danmar 6,000 lb scissor lift and I can get it on the unibody "frame rails" and it works great for everything but doing exhaust so I thought one on these might be an option. I can get to the exhaust but it is weird crawling inside the scissor lift part when the car is in the air.

[@negrorangel2363]

I have a question / request , I purchased my first oscilloscope , pico 2000 series , so is there a way I can check my own heart beat using this scope and if so what is the cheapest way and a better way to do it using a scope like this one or similar to this one , Tha k you I’m Greg

[@negrorangel2363]

Im sorry it’s not related to this video I just posted on the most recent video

[@SchrodingersBox]

Hahaha that’s an awesome question!!! I actually don’t see why you couldn’t do that however you would not be able to use the scope directly connected to probes on your skin. you would need some type of amplifier of the signals of the skin probes and I am not sure what devices would do that… well, other than an actual ECG of course.

[@SIBUK]

I'm very interested in getting this lift, but my driveway isn't dead level, and one corner slopes up slightly higher than the rest. Would this lift still be ok do you think?

[@SchrodingersBox]

Definitely not. As with any lifting surface it must be level. You may get away with a few degree of slant front to back but not side to side.

[@SIBUK]

@SchrodingersBox do you think it would be ok if I put wood under the other 3 corners so that it was level?

[@SchrodingersBox]

I’m probably metal would be better. If the wood crunches it will create a really unstable condition. Remember this lifts the car way beyond what any jack could reach so if you run into trouble with your modification you are likely to have a major catastrophe.

[@MrNebRebew]

Have you had any issues with connecting the hoses? Mine are very hard to connect even after leaving the down button on 10 seconds after both platforms are on the floor.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I have, and while it’s easier after holding button in down position, it is sometimes hard to connect the hoses. i think this is also why I introduce air into the lines and have to bleed every 6 or 7 uses.

[@sen7ryx]

Hello, I have a question related to fuel trims that I cannot find the answer to it. Why at constant speed and throttle and load my LTFT drops to -3% -7% depending on load? I cannot find this behavior explained anywhere. No one is talking about rich fuel trims :( I drive a ford focus mk1 1.6 petrol and at idle LTFT is around 7-9%, when flooring it it goes back to 0% which i know it must be a vacuum leak somewhere (that i swear i cannot find) or a leak in the exhaust manifold. Then when i'm starting to gain speed and slowly pressing the accelerator pedal the LTFT starts going rich at -3%, -7%. Thank you!

[@SchrodingersBox]

i I don’t see what’s wrong. what is the issue exactly? s seems totally normal. what codes do you have or symptoms

[@sen7ryx]

@@SchrodingersBox It doesn't give any code. It is a normal behavior for LTFT to be rich constantly at -7% when having a constant throttle at 2.000 RPM for long periods of time?

[@SchrodingersBox]

yes

[@sen7ryx]

@@SchrodingersBox thank you! I thought that having a slightly rich LTFT at constant rpm would indicate a fuel pressure regulator problem or a leaking injector at that certain RPM range

[@SchrodingersBox]

why? Not sure I follow that. you have normal total fuel trim.

[@charlesgould8436]

Can you use just 1 for one side?

[@SchrodingersBox]

No you can not- the instructions state both lifts must be used together and not just as a safety thing but it’s necessary for proper pump operation.

[@Lambros_Stefaneas]

This is the best equipment that you have in your garage. You will blame your shelf, that you hadn't buy it, long time ago.

[@JOMaMa..]

Use small jack stands to split the lock difference

[@SchrodingersBox]

Yes I tried that but it didn’t really seem all that stable. Great idea though. I initially put jackstands there as a backup too because I didn’t yet trust the lift locks.

[@JOMaMa..]

@@SchrodingersBox When I’m performing under hood work I bring the vehicle up to comfortable position and let it rest on the hydraulics.

[@SchrodingersBox]

yeah letting it rest on the hydraulics would probably be OK working under the hood but definitely not while under the car. i did let it rest on hydraulics for about 10 minutes to see if there was any drift and it stayed perfectly still. i suppose you could also lift it past the first lock and tape the cams so they stay off the rail and that way even if the lift did lose pressure it would just stop on the first lock anyway.

[@kevinlewis8572]

How come you didn't consider the forklift?

[@SchrodingersBox]

storage limitation in my garage

[@calholli]

It's cool, but it sure seems expensive for how easy it is to make.

[@nickayivor8432]

SUBSTANTIAL Schrodingers Box Good Morning 🌄 Take care and have a great day Thank you for sharing with us Schrodingers Box From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 11,04,2022 8.36am

[@negarakuistanaku3977]

5 star

[@jayjwin1178]

i think, the poor man car lift would be dig a pit.