Ultimate SNES Power Mod

[@coldfire0101]

you better be careful that hair looks like werewolf hair to me

[@axelkusanagi4139]

I'm so glad I found your channel. About damned time someone had the guts to say: what if the nintendo ds was a game boy pocket? And other insanities.

[@Weneedaplague]

hes misinforming about components all over the place and acting like hes doing it right by bullshitting every time he pauses sentence

[@ike-2357]

hey there, i got a bit of a recommendation for the next time you do a retrobright, instead of using the salon cream, i use the salon 40 developer liquid and a plastic bin with the outside sprayed with liquid mirror spray paint. heres how i built my retrobrite bin: water safe translucent bin (fit to your project and maximizing space and volume) liquid mirror spray paint painters tape (for leaving space for retrobright led strips) a heat lamp on a boom arm mount above container a safe place to put the box for retrobrighting -assembling the retrobright box- go outside wear ample breathing equipment and clothes you don't care about make sure its a nice sunny day apply painters tape where you want the led strips to rest. spray the mirror finish spray paint to the outside of the box. as the mirror spray paint is settling remove the painters tape where you want the led's to go. let the box dry and then then use painters tape and cover the outside of the box and install the led strips where the mirror finish spray didn't go. for controllers such as the snes controller, i use a pickle jar with a liquid mirror paint on the outside and filled with salon 40 developer and a heat lamp and black light leds, the set up is very similar to the one mentioned above. and it is sealed with a plastic see thru lid and a top pickle jar clasp, or plastic wrap with rubber bands this will give you much more consistent results and is my go to recommendation this also reduces the chances of marbling to zero. thank you for this video! :D.

[@kanpaifighto]

So if the system steps the voltage down to 5v anyway, why did you have to go from 5v -> 9v -> 5v like that? Genuinely curious because I’ve never attempted any power-related mods thus far!

[@XipherDesign]

Because to run the system on 5v directly requires jumping of the mosfet power transformer on the SNES motherboard that handles the input: The mosfet in normal operation steps down the power from the original wall adapter, 12v down to 5v to run the system. So If I jumped the mosfet to run the system on a regular 5v wall wart and then say sell the system to a person unaware of the mod, then they will unknowingly fry the system. the 5-9v power board is just a safety measure in case I need to use the original wall wart or sell the system.

[@kanpaifighto]

@@XipherDesign ah!! I got it, I hadn’t realized you kept the original wall wart’s functionality as an option. Makes sense in that case!

[@XipherDesign]

@Roller Mobster I mean, that's fine I suppose. But I'm just going to stick to the step up board for my use case

[@happity]

I was interested in trying that, and just removing the DC barrel input. Seems easier!

[@reptilez13]

The retro brighting works better when the item is submerged in just hydrogen peroxide . The cream stuff ends up with the marble look lol. Having an enclosed container with UV lamps and tin foil helps too, but especially just liquid instead of cream.

[@XipherDesign]

I'll have to try that next instead of the hair developer!

[@Cain532.]

I think I may have been your 2000th subscriber lol, seriously though, your content is AMAZING! Could you possibly look into doing something similar for the PS1?

[@XipherDesign]

I dont have a PS1, but if I happen across one, I could take a shot at it!

[@Cain532.]

@@XipherDesign That would be awesome!

[@IgorYatskiv]

I did a same mod to original Japanese Famicom. It all works just fine. As long as you don't want to use some EverDrive (or similar) flash cartridge. That step up DC converter just unable to provide enough current for flash carts to run properly. I tried to solder 5v from USB to motherboard directly. And that worked... But this way I got a lot of visual video noise. It varies from AC to AC adapters but the original AC 9v adapter provided a lot crisper flicker free image. I guess I had to add some filtering caps.

[@reptilez13]

Glad I stumbled upon your channel. I hope to be making some content soon, keep it up!

[@Pulverrostmannen]

it´s a neat mod so to speak but for me it seems like some of the steps would be possible to go around such as the voltage booster, I know that the voltage regulator gonna step it down to 5 volts again anyway but it should be possible to feed in the power after it without frying the stuff (I might look into that some day). But either way it will be more safe to do it the way you did, however it adds more complexity and losses and kinda ruin the reason to use a regulated 5V USB adaptor in the first place unless you wanna bring your Nintendo out in the woods with a powerbank to play your favorite games on battery, since pretty much any power adaptor with 9-12 volts and a barrel jack would work without modding, Good thing to know is that some consoles have the AC input and adaptor depending which it is and if you would put such a SNES AC power brick into a console modded this way by mistake you gonna fry the booster since it is connected to the jack directly and it cannot handle AC. Thought it could be a good thing to point out since the SNES might have this AC adaptor as well as a DC depending on type. you can use a DC adaptor on the AC input but not good the other way around

[@Simon_Calvert]

Hi, nice job, thanks. Please, can you tell me the name of the first song?

[@XipherDesign]

It is a slowed down version of a song from the Bomberman 64 OST. Not sure what it is by name.

[@Simon_Calvert]

@@XipherDesign Great! thank you friend!

[@themodernguitarist]

Old post but it's "Dessert" from Bomberman Hero, but slowed down about half speed. The actual song is really upbeat and fast.

[@Simon_Calvert]

​@@themodernguitarist Anyway, I appreciate you consideration. Have a nice day!

[@themodernguitarist]

@@Simon_Calvert I really recommend playing Bomberman hero. The entire soundtrack is a bop (the 2nd song in this video at 5:20 is also from the Hero OST) and the game is a pretty fun action platformer albeit a bit more dated than classics like SM64

[@dustybrewmer]

Have you tried using a solder wick before? I'm no soldering expert, but I hate those cheap sucker things. Using a disposable wick has always worked much better for me than one of those sucker sticks. You can end up going through what seems like a lot of it, but it can really clean off old solder pretty thoroughly.

[@XipherDesign]

yeah Ive used solder wick, but I find the solder sucker to do a pretty good job for the most part.

[@NordicDan]

I finally invested in a desoldering station. Not a super expensive (and admittedly very nice) Hakko unit, but once that works night and day better than the plastic deals. I use that for the initial solder joint removal and then clean up with solder wick. Leaves me with beautifully clean pads that still have tin on them. One trick which he does in the video when he attacks the LED is to add a touch of new solder to the joint when they're this old, as it helps the old solder melt and flow better into the sucker and the wick during removal.

[@Horrorfanatic2024]

i have a question so after you solder your usb & chip together you just glue the usb port in the back/bracket and then the other end of the wires is solder to the 9v & ground under the circuit board/bottom? just want to make sure i do it correctly! also the link to the usb type that you used is broken so i m not sure what type of micro usb you used! any help would be great this is the best tutorial but i am new to this stuff and i am doing my best to understand it! so i just want to make sure that i solder the wires in the correct place! prob stupid question but is this safe to plug into a wall socket and play?

[@soul334]

This is a very neat project, I hope to see more content uploaded from this channel.

[@XipherDesign]

I'm going to try and add more content this year but it's pretty difficult to make these videos.

[@retronexusnet]

love your channel!! can you do more of these? amazing content man

[@nemesisnine3297]

Is it true that some cartridges that use fx chips won't work correctly because they need the extra volt (10v) ? Also if you use a higher amperage (example: 1.2A) will make up for the 9v and allow the fx chips to work? I'm not a electrician so that's why I'm asking... I'm currently using a sega genesis model 1 adapter (10v 1.2A) I ditched the Japanese 100v brick because I heard it's a ticking time bomb 💣

[@XipherDesign]

FX chip games work just fine. This mod provides 9v at 2 amps, which is plenty to run the system.

[@doohansmith4327]

Hey man, awesome mod. I'm just looking for the 3d print bracket file, where can I find it if you've uploaded it?

[@XipherDesign]

I got the 3d files added to the description as well as links to the items I used for reference!

[@ultralord2889]

awesome video! Hope to see more.

[@VansterX]

Instead of retrobrighting with the sun you need a plastic tub filled with hydrogen peroxide and wrapped in a UV led strip. Odd Experiments has a video about the process.

[@clintoncronin2504]

I started using this method well over a decade ago to de-yellow the clear soles of Nike Air Jordan 11 sneakers. Works great for game console plastic as well

[@joshua199628]

Can i just go and bypass the “10V” section and go straight to where the VRM outputs 5V ?

[@ayellowbeard]

Three years in the future: hey can you update your links? Only one of them works and I'm thinking I might want to do this mod! Thanks!

[@JLMtime]

you would need a USB-PD with higher voltage to do this right some charger have only 500 MA so to up the voltage you lose amps saying ANY charger has little damager I wonder

[@ItsTeezoUBZ]

I know this is an old video but couldn’t you just use that ada plug to power the system??

[@jasonpistorio3651]

I'm very curious now that some time has past if this mod is working as intended before I attempt it myself. The forums I've checked out say that "noise" from a different power supply can cause problems.

[@XipherDesign]

I have yet to experience any issues at over a year in, and haven't experienced any "noise". The system already runs natively on 5v so theres not really an issue of power supply problems.

[@jasonpistorio3651]

@@XipherDesign thanks for the response, I look forward to more of your mods. I've been thinking about doing this for a long time and I'm glad someone did a video on it. There really aren't any videos about modern power replacement on the older consoles (that are competent)

[@OG_Zero_Cool]

GREAT VIDEO!!! I want to do this to my SNES but will this work on the original NTSC systems and will the 3d print also work for the NTSC systems?

[@XipherDesign]

This mod should work on all SNES systems and the printed bracket should fit as long as you have the same RF port

[@shadeofentropy]

I was convinced that this was in fact a 1CHIP due to the shorter board length. Every European SNES I've seen with that form factor has been a 1CHIP.

[@EZO.FUZZ.IS.OFFLINE]

Hmm I think you don't even need the modded usb power converter. If the whole system runs on 5V and the only component relying on 9V is the voltage regulator itself, you should he able to bridge input/output on the regulator and just supply 5v directly.

[@jamesfavaloro5571]

Hi, this is fantastic! Any chance you could share where you got the components? In particular the plastic housing for the usb c? If you 3D printed them would you be willing to sell them? Cheers

[@XipherDesign]

I did design and print my own USB bracket and I can share the files on thingiverse for folks to download and use. But I dont have any intent to sell parts. But a lot of libraries have 3d printers these days to get the parts produced

[@jamesfavaloro5571]

@@XipherDesign Sounds great!

[@R3TR0--93]

liked that u used redial song at the end

[@BoyNamedKelly]

Sick vid.

[@JustinSunseri]

can't believe you just left out the part where you removed the RF module

[@Estmusic323]

Hi. I wanted to ask if i would use everdrive does this mod handle it because it uses power too.

[@XipherDesign]

Yep it works fine. The everdrive doesn't use that much additional power compared to a regular cart. Everdrives are more of a calculated drain on handheld where batteries are the main source of power

[@Estmusic323]

Do you have the Bracket files still? Please update the link if you have.

[@henrysaeng]

Adding the step up converter is unnecessary. Depending on your power adapter, it should provide enough power for you. In this case, since you're connecting directly to the OEM voltage regulator (minimum operating voltage is 7.5V), all you would need to do is supply a 7.5V-12V power source and a direct path from the USBC to the OEM voltage regulator. Regarding whether you use an everdrive, it should run fine as long as the snes is supplied the recommended ~800mA.

[@aravindvinayakan]

I'm really surprised nobody has made a custom top plate for SFC that makes it region free 🤔

[@XipherDesign]

yeah that would be great if there was! I guess until then Ill just have to re-shell my games for SFC or use an Everdrive

[@aravindvinayakan]

@@XipherDesign Makes sense! If I do ever pick up a SFC, I'll probably just go the Everdrive route. Though I'm still a sucker for actually getting up and changing cartridges haha

[@imclearingit4149]

why does nobody want to get a gameshark/genie/AR or any other cartridge which has a passthrough? IIRC you can just boot with no codes entered to have it act as just a riser

[@NordicDan]

I can see your logic in using the step up and step back down method, but this honestly seems like a ridiculously simple mod to do for those willing to just lose the regulator and wire the USB terminal directly to the +5in on the motherboard.

[@XipherDesign]

I didnt remove the stock 12v port, so I was worried that if someone else got my system that they'd fry the system by plugging it in with the standard power brick.

[@NordicDan]

@@XipherDesign Good call on your reason for leaving it in place. Removing the 12V port would definitely be necessary if you intended to remove the regulator too, but then you'd be contending with the open hole in the housing.

[@bleepbloopblahp]

@@XipherDesign 12v port? Now I am confused. What 12v port?

[@tannermccoolman4647]

Have you tried Yoshi's Island with this? I'm curious how the more power-hungry games perform

[@XipherDesign]

I have and FX chip games and everdrives still run just as well as the standard un-modded system 😇

[@JoseOliveira-pk5hp]

Qual a finalidade de colocar uma porta usb-c no console?

[@XipherDesign]

Eu não gostava de usar o plugue de alimentação grande. USB-C é comum agora e é muito menor. isso é traduzido com o google :)

[@themodernguitarist]

I'm a simple man, I hear Bomberman Hero OST, I subscribe

[@Tony65892]

Impressive it is . But i like to keep my consoles how they are with no unnecessary modifications unless it's a repair and replacement of a resistor or a faulty reset button and capacitors. I wouldn't want to devalue my consoles .

[@GreatMazinkaiser]

Probably way too late, but the bracket file seems to have disappeared from Thingiverse... though I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to design a new one.

[@XipherDesign]

Sorry, I shifted things over to Printables.com The link should be active again

[@nekrosantenabu6577]

@@XipherDesign Is free ti download and print? Is the same, this bezel is compatible whit Eurpean PAL version of SNES? Thanks

[@paulm5873]

You can just solder the 5v to the other side of the 5v regulator, you would just have to modify the switch so you can turn it off

[@DawsonsMemes]

We need a Gameboy Lite A thin Gameboy case with cartridge And a rechargeable battery

[@brunopmcosta]

I think a clear coar would have evened out the finish on the thing

[@johneygd]

What’s the reason to ad usb C to it?

[@XipherDesign]

just cause' i guess 🥸

[@audun7255]

What is a anit static brush

[@XipherDesign]

a brush that resists static buildup

[@h4l-cy0n]

Does this mean you could technically use the Switch power adapter?

[@XipherDesign]

You definitely can!

[@reptilez13]

Btw, the "shroud" is just RF shielding I think. Luckily in Japan they require much less. American Snes or Nes consoles require much more RF Shielding per US FCC regulation lol

[@LastMegaMan]

now I know I am an idiot but I more wander why you wouldn't place power though the holes of the Voltage regulator. but I'm assuming that this is because you'd have to fine tune the voltage and Mili-amps from the USB to the through holes with a multi meter. using something who's name I forget. I honestly would like to know your reasoning for why.

[@XipherDesign]

I wanted to keep the option to use the OEM power brick. Removing the voltage regulator means that if I use the original power brick then the system gets fried

[@LastMegaMan]

@@XipherDesign fair enough. Though I'm left to wonder if something else should be added or not to protect from some idiot ( like me) forgetting that this mod has been done to their own SNES and having both ports filled for power.

[@anonym-g-a-d7817]

I don't get it because a SNES console requires 9V~ AC power. But this mod is on 5V to 9V DC🤔🤔🤔

[@XipherDesign]

I think you may be mistaken; The SNES runs on 5v DC.

[@louieramos9740]

just dump the super Nintendo shell in soapy water.

[@Storm_.]

This makes no sense! Why did you step-up the USB-C to 9v, fed it to a 10>5v step-down? Why not just wire the USB-C 5v directly into the Snes 5v input and removed the voltage regulator?!

[@XipherDesign]

I know you guys dont read the comments, but I mentioned in another comment like this that if I wired the 5v directly to the system, that id have to block off the AC port on the shell. otherwise, if someone plugged in the stock power brick it would fry the system. I might not have this system in 5 years and give it someone else. Id rather not have them accidentally destroy it

[@atranimecs]

Or save the time and effort and grab a mister reflex volt power cable and use a USB-C charger you probably already own that can do output 12v....cheaper that route if you dont have a soldering iron around.

[@kalulugamer]

Japanese hair 😂😂😂

[@ngokthai76]

Japanese hair lol

[@XipherDesign]

😇

[@Gabriel2Silva]

Awesome mod! If you don't mind me asking, what exactly is the difference between this mod (endrift.com/2019/08/10/usb-snes/) and yours? I see the other mod doesn't need to do the 5V>9V>5V conversion. Also, with your mod, what happens if you plug the SNES into a USB adapter capable of outputting "turbo" voltages (like 9V)? It'd fry the system, right? I'm new at SNES modding and I'm looking forward to doing your mod on my systems!

[@imclearingit4149]

he'd answered someone else who asked the same question. Either you can search the comments, or trust me when I say "short answer is he said the motherboard has a 12v to 5v step down mosfet, and jumping that to not need the 5v to 9v step up would make the original power brick or any overpowered usb-c fry the board, having the 5v to 9v step up lets us use the original wall wart and most C chargers including Switch ones" edit, you need to put a space at the end of your link, the /) makes it invalid because it should simply be / kanpaifighto 3 months ago So if the system steps the voltage down to 5v anyway,

[@XipherDesign]

The other commenter hit it on the head. If you bypass the buck converter/mosfet, and wire in 5v directly, then someone could maybe plug in the regular power plug and fry the system

[@iamdmc]

Would a 9V ZYPDS usb c PD trigger board simplify this as you won't need a step up converter?