3D Printed Action Figures!!

This is officially a dream project come true. Attempting to 3D Print articulating action figures + Resin Stacking!
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My PATREON ➜ / unclejessy
Buy Me a Coffee ➜ www.buymeacoffee.com/UncleJessy
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Thanks for watching!
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Uncle Jessy
PO BOX 629
25 Goodburlet RD
Henrietta, NY 14467
#3DPrinting #Resin #Toys

[@UncleJessy]

Ready to print your own? Checkout teccotoys presupported printable files! teccotoys.com/ 🤘

[@iRiselyTech]

Jessy the technique to tighten up ball joints is called Sueding. Its common among ball jointed doll makers. You use moleskin inside the cup part of the ball joint to provide friction, you can buy it with a self adhesive backing. Alternatively you can even use hot glue and spread it around the cup, let it set then insert the ball part and achieve the same result!

[@FSDraconis]

This would look stellar if you printed the helmets out of the clear red!

[@FSDraconis]

@@iRiselyTech You might get away with using a little bit of poster tac in the joint?

[@UncleJessy]

@@iRiselyTech Heck yeah! I remember watching a video a few years back on how to tighten up an old action figure joint but couldnt remember what material they used. I bet it was the moleskin! Thanks for the tip! Going to try both out

[@UncleJessy]

@@FSDraconis gah damnit... now I gotta go and do that

[@Christopher_Gibbons]

Anybody else thinking how awesome fully articulated D&D minis would be?

[@UncleJessy]

🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯

[@MageLeaderInc]

That was my first thought!

[@rallyfeind]

I see both the amazing and the horrors immediately. This could be awesome and allow better things as far as actionable poses in combat that fit the 3d terrain like climbing actions. I also see that one player or a group of players trying to be perfectly posed at all times and the hours spent watching that too.

[@goofylookingmofo]

If you could print out a full supply of interchangeable parts for various poses... *imagines mass army setup for stop action movie...

[@jamesrickel3814]

If you just go to 3.75 inch action figures they are roughly 2x2 the size of a 32mm mini. So you put an action figure on a base that is 2inch by 2inch and double your map size it should work out. 3inch by 3inch for 6 inch figures.

[@oniaeon]

7:10 - An easy way to thicken a joint for a tighter pose on the 200% model is simple enough - thin layers of superglue. Just let it harden on the ball part of the joint before attaching the figure together if you don't want them in a pose permanently. If still loose, apply another thin layer of glue. Works on Gundam kits so it should work here :3

[@jasonrhome710]

Floor polish is another one I've seen used on Gundam, Transfromers, etc.

[@xianfilm]

I just printed these up the other day and was having this same issue. I’ll have to try the super glue method.

[@MikeyMcCorry]

Clear nail polish also works well - at least for FDM printing - which, pro tip, is also good for creating a bit of a seal over the surface before painting, as paint can seep in between layers and spread out below the surface.

[@pixelmace1423]

I've heard applying a top coat onto the joint can also work but I haven't tried it myself

[@Zickzag]

@@xianfilm Did you by anychance tried it ? im interested in hearing results.

[@TheMonkeOfficial]

Honestly this combined with the silicone molding techniques is where I think the idea really shines.

[@ConfusionDistortion]

A old trick used in the action figure scene to tighten up joints is to use Pledge acrylic floor gloss. It used to be sold under the "Future" line. People in the hobby use it for applying a primer, or clear coats to paint or mixing them to get a semi-glossy color. And as stated, it can be brushed into joints and left to cure, It will give the joint some added friction so the joint is tighter.

[@Channel2S]

Very cool to see how far 3d printing tech has come. I'm definitely going to have to try and make some of these whenever I get a resin printer!

[@UncleJessy]

Still blows my mind how quick the tech is advancing and the prices keep coming down

[@jeancaceres7670]

A good advice is to print the figures without articulations, and then add kaiyodo revoltech or figma joints (ball joints) that comes in different colors. This would make the process easier for printing and will give the figures a high quality articulation. May be you can print the articulation (ball joints) yourself?

[@hyperionhelios190]

I would love to see some more articulating gunpla (gundam) models

[@omegadeltazero]

If this happens with gunpla that be crazy 👀

[@Eldurz]

I’m all in on resin printing gunpla! I’m learning hard surface modeling for that same reason

[@UncleJessy]

I’m currently hunting for files

[@flamestoyershadowkill6400]

@@Eldurz bandai may respond by adding more ms joint and diecast metal to compete. Using this for custom armor for mg gunpla frames would be good (could make stuff like resin kits be put out of business)

[@OdinMakes]

That is a cool project! Thank you for the video Uncle Jessy!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for checking it out! Loving that peacemaker helmet!

[@Doug-tq7ry]

The first thing I ever resin printed was a articulated head I models for a custom Halo Mege Construx figure. It's kinda the reason I got into resin printing so I love seeing that a community is starting to form around articulated figures :D

[@stoissdk]

Tip: Run the prints under the hot tap right before pulling off the supports. Makes it a lot easier.

[@Bakamoichigei]

This is exactly the sort of thing I want more of from resin 3D printing! Detailed, highly articulated models! I'd design my own, but I'm simply not a skilled enough modeler... 😑

[@pwhite2579]

remember when you scale something up the joint relief distance scales up as well! if, for example, the relief distance was 1 mm then scaled up it is 2 mm! which puts it out of tight tolerance. Same thing will happen if scaled down you won't be able to assemble.

[@king_doge_]

OMG the crunch. love it

[@kq7082]

You can tighten the joints with floor polish. I've used Pledge Floor Gloss on action figure joints that are super loose. Works great, super easy and cheap! Sometimes you might need a couple layers (with drying time in between), but it does the trick. I first heard of the technique on KZbin from other action figure enthusiasts.

[@Walkingdeath_69]

Bloody awesome mate can't wait to print these.

[@SteveTalkowski]

Wow! Definitely interested in these. I’d love to learn more about setting up the resin stacking technique for my own characters as well.

[@remyguzman58]

That crackling sound is so satisfying. Kinda like bubble wrap.

[@AndrewSink]

This is such a clever idea, I love it!

[@UncleJessy]

And checkout those ResinLapse clips 😬

[@Mr.GoodBarr_Makes]

I can’t wait to eventually get to resin printing. Filament is a lot of fun so far but man that’s cool!

[@cavvaldiv5536]

THANK YOU I have been looking for something like this for *ever*

[@rsucgang]

Really cool prints Uncle Jessy. Just got my Mars 2 Pro and can't wait to try this out.

[@UncleJessy]

Heck yeah! Congrats that is a stellar machine!

[@filamentfandoms822]

This is awesome! Nice prints, man!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for checking it out!

[@billcurran7210]

This is a much cooler example of resin stacking. I could see doing this for minis on a regular basis.

[@thecrimsonchapperling4154]

Fantastic concept, also gotta love tat hobby asmr

[@Mandrake_Design]

I really like this action figure idea with this pre support frames. I design most of the time on my channel anime figures and have sometimes "problems" to arrange my parts. At the moment I stick the parts just together, I think I should also do some research how I can do action figures like the figma's. Thank you for the video, this gave me more ideas how to design/ arrange my own figures XD

[@TheSmugglersRoom]

Awesome stuff man! Thank you Jessy!

[@colinfielder6695]

Nice one Jessica. I have recently purchased a resin 3d printer and I'm looking forward to printing these!

[@queenstyles5815]

So satisfying ☺️

[@CajunCraftastrophe]

Very cool, Uncle Jessy! This is very exciting, Nice video, man!

[@SpaceGringos3D]

Always great content!

[@Kevin16441]

I build gunpla model kits and when we have loose joints, we go over the joints with some cement and let it dry so the joint is a bit thicker. You might be able to do the same with resin.

[@Th0r2814]

I just ordered some. Can’t wait to try these prints out

[@duogemstone]

varnish, sticky tack or a little bit of resin there are a lot of ways to fix loose joints, pretty much anyway you can thicken the ball joint or peg will work nicely

[@Archaon6044]

The stacked models remind me of Kit Cards which were all the rage on r/3dprinting around Christmas 2021. And as a warhammer nerd, i do love me some on-sprue models. Though if a warhammer kit was crunching like at 6:20 I would be very concerned. I'm kind of tempted to pass these around as little gifts at like halloween or in birthday cards and stuff

[@andersrask4110]

WOW that is a cool tiny figure!

[@oohjon1537]

This technology has a long way to go before action figure manufacturers even in a small scale need to start worrying. However Jesse DeStasio of Glyos and Toypizza has gone on record saying he’s going to be doing 3d printed figures this year to sell.

[@TheAlexdodd]

I really think it depends on the type and quality of figure. Imagine if places like hot toys sold STL files of the grunts, like the storm trooper, and to offset that, put more work into better and more awesome hero figures that you really only would have 1 of anyways.

[@3dman563]

@@TheAlexdodd its also about the design . i am a designer , so i bought a printer to bring it to reality. but , nowadays everybody buys printer to print models that somebody else made. it has no creativity in it

[@SocialistNihilist]

@@3dman563 I've been painting miniatures other people sculpted for 30 years, so it's quite the surprise to be browsing KZbin today and discover that literal decades of creative output had "no creativity in it". 🙄

[@undeadmeats]

Post-cure you can make assembly easier by warming the parts with the female halves of the joints in front of a heater. Just makes the resin slightly softer!

[@alexisrodriguez6526]

Those figures looks so FREAKING GOOD

[@UncleJessy]

Update coming soon!

[@alexisrodriguez6526]

@@UncleJessy now I need to get myself an elegoo mars, just to make dope action figures like these! Plus I need an upgrade from my Orange 10

[@Riverboat374]

This is an AMAZING technique. Not for action figures, instead the designer could print posable minis on sprues. That would give us the option to create individual poses for every mini instead of being stuck with the couple poses that the current one piece mini model files come in. This is really an eye opener!

[@foggiestfog]

definitely needs the siraya tech i printed a larger one without and the joints just snapped like twigs

[@Dr0]

This is so cool, the dream of any action figure collector

[@mikesvirtualhikeandtours1721]

Those are dope!!!

[@StantonLuke]

Just purchased a bunch of them! Awesome!

[@dumbassclub9707]

I'm new too 3D printing and i find this very entertaining

[@kalosprismatic]

Honestly, I'm thoroughly enthralled with resin stacking, and I can't wait to see more and try it myself. 😁

[@UncleJessy]

Whew. Was afraid I was overdoing it with more resin stacking content. I’m also sliiiigjtly obsessed. One more project in mind that I have for it that I want to try and tackle soon

[@kalosprismatic]

@@UncleJessy I don't think you're overdoing it at all. I can't think of a reason why anyone *shouldn't* use vertical space. 🤷‍♂️

[@UncleJessy]

@@kalosprismatic 🤘🤘

[@demon1103]

@@kalosprismatic One reason I can think is if there's a defect...the rest will suffer. Still a neat concept though.

[@3DMusketeers]

Saw the thumbnail and thought "why is Uncle Jessy playing with casting resin??" it is basically that same purple! Great prints, love those cards, really nice system. Those colored backdrops look SICK!

[@UncleJessy]

That is 110% on the to do list for this year!

[@3DMusketeers]

@@UncleJessy We use Siraya Tech Cast. Work's great! Pain to print as it is REALLY fragile. No vroooom for it, 50mm/min max pull speed I believe!

[@EvesScaleModels]

A technique i use to get stiffer joints on models if theyre to loose is simply dabbing a small amount of super glue into it and moving it around so that it doesnt glue em in place. That or i use plastic cement to do the same thing basically.

[@DJaven007]

Love your video's, always excited to see a new one up. I'm looking to upgrade from my original anycubic photon. Been looking at something around the size of the Mono x or the Saturn. Any recommendations?

[@Indy1977TX]

I think the problem with 200% scaling is the tolerances between pieces are now doubled. It would take some modifications to keep them as tight as the 100% prints.

[@Infernoblade1010]

THIS IS SICK!!!!! I really want to try this for myself, but...BIGGER!!!

[@yagsipcc287]

Oh wow this is really damn cool 👏👏

[@LoveMakeShareTV]

Great video! Any concern about trapping uncured resin inside the figure if you assemble it before post-processing?

[@WMBayouLures]

My favorite part of your video is when you show the resin bottle with resin all over it, makes me feel better about my resin covered bottles! ;-)

[@UncleJessy]

haha aint no shame in the messy resin game ;) thanks for checking it out man! FYI we need to chat later this year! I need to make some lures

[@Indy1977TX]

Glad to see that you have found the plastic sprue cutters more useful than first thought.

[@SoloAxlion]

Reminds me of wondering how to model ball joints and sockets for this sort of thing, the clearances involved and such.

[@NosterRex]

Ild love to see this in a robotech mecha theme. Some of the most visually impressive mech suits ever

[@Rawstock92]

Peg systems, like Glyos are ideal for joints; some use Lego pins. If you can adapt the joints to a peg, you get more flexibility in printing, replaceability and repairability, as well as interchangeability. Also, you can both wax and / or oil the joints more readily with pegs.

[@andyiliff7793]

This makes me very happy! I need to get an Elegoo Mars printer.

[@kerricaine]

i print a lot of tabletop minis, and one designer i follow does these card style supports as well, so they essentially come on sprues like store bought warhammer minis

[@additiveartificer9365]

Okay that is some impressive packaging

[@DocWolph]

When my old GIjoe's joints got loose from use, and this was really a LOT easier on the legs, I would use Elmer's glue in the knees and bits of zip lock bags in the hips and shoulders to tighten them up. This did require dismantling the figure, which started a bout of kitbashing with me and my friends. This was back in the 1980s when I was a kid. Today I might still use Elmer's glue and ziplock bag bits, but if the joint ends are that robust you might try BLUE Treadlock and only a small dot of it. I specified Elmer's glue, although any similar school or craft glue will work as well, because its drying results is a conveniently shaped plastic "wedge" that tightens the joint. If anything goes wrong, like the glue is too filling or strong, it can be removed, but it will require dismantling the joint. This is also why you do NOT use something like Gorilla Glue. It is simply TOO strong. Although if the joints happen to be metal on plastic or metal on metal, you can consider it. I have not tried sealants, like your typical window sealants from a hardware store, but maybe...? I emphasis "Blue" threadlock because that is the less powerful formulation The RED is designed for use on Car engines and similar heavier metal screws or bolts into metal parts and structures and requires FIRE to melt and release the RED Threadlock. Do not use RED.

[@eastoforion]

very cool idea!

[@janzedwicksantos6015]

Love this very cool

[@SupImLeo]

I was waiting for this but no one make this only u found how to make those little cool things!!!

[@darrencheong2231]

Are the ones on the sprue hard to remove or rather when you clip it there's a chance for it to fly off etc being more brittle than your typical plastic sprues.. You can use nail polish to coat the joints .. that's what people generally use for their toys when joints get loose.

[@5blures]

That is pretty cool

[@Not_So_Super_Mario]

Hey Jessy! These are pretty bad ass. As for the joints. You can tighten them up with a bit of crazy glue. Lol I know this sounds crazy but it works like a charm. Add a lil glue to the joint and keep moving the joint until the glue is dry. This makes the joint tighter. Repeat until you get the desired motion in the joint

[@alswyt]

Amazing !

[@umartschannel]

Wow always amazing UNCLE JESSY! I want to ask you how I can make the effect that you use when show the entire creation go off the printer in on time.

[@Phoenix-bc7ty]

I checked out the mechs and my only thought was what it would take to upscale the mechs to have the larger figures fit the pilot seats.

[@KernsJW]

Looks great! Just got my first resinn printer today. Need to setup a full safety process and location to put the printer before i can even think about printing something like this. The inside doesn't cure right? Im worried someone with kids may try printing stuff like this and it gets into the kids hands and eventually mouth.

[@portland-182]

A smear of thin super glue on one half of a joint, and then allow to fully cure before assembly of the joint, will enlarge the ball, or shrink the socket, and will make a joint tighter. PTFE tape is also quite good, and is easy to remove if you use too much...

[@VictorLaster]

Awesome video. I use those same dyes. 😃

[@ScooterinAB]

This is awesome. What mixture did you use? I'm interested in making and printing action figures, but everywhere I ask tells me that resin prints don't work well for action figures.

[@CYBERDELICRELICS]

Taking the custom brand color resin idea with the figure stacking plates. Thanks!

[@3DJapan]

This is something I've been working on for a long time. Designing my own and looking at ones to print. I found a fantastic Samus Aran action figure but all the parts are disorganized and named wrong so it was confusing.

[@nachomahn]

Watching this vid ... and my 5 yr old was watching over my shoulder. Yup ... gotta print them all now =)

[@Spirited282]

Very cool prints thanks for sharing. What product do you use to die the color, i am curious

[@Star_cab]

I know very little about 3d printing. Would you be able to tight up the joints with a thin layer of uv resin on the pivots then cure with a uv light?

[@leowatley]

if your joints are loose, hit em with some clear nail polish or some floor polish. let em dry, reassemble and voila: tighter joints. i do it all the time on my transformers. you can also buy 'kiki - fix loose joints' on amazon or something, but that's basically floor polish as well.

[@Fish_Tailz]

Had a question about battery backup and what you would recommend to use for that if you have experience with power outages. I live in a dorm style building and have had them shut the power off randomly and even had my mars 3 going when they did it one time and caused my print to fail. Not sure if you have or do use something like this for your printers.

[@skylersowers7715]

You can always add layers to the joints your self like when you coated the fdm mask with resin. Add a layer of resin to the ball joint or socket and cure it then try how it feels. If not good try another layer.

[@quentinfeerylawrence]

Would love to see a review of the Elegoo Neptune X and if it is worth getting over a Neptune 2 or 2s

[@CDRaff]

Dude! These action figures are rad as... Kinda reminds me of Exosquad.

[@jonstarritt848]

This is a great idea for custom Gundam parts! Time to break out the calipers and fire up Blender.

[@rielinquished]

for the loose joints on the 200% prints, you can try brushing on a thin layer of floor polish to tighten them up! the transformers community has been doing that for a long time with great results

[@mrburns366]

You could possibly brush on uncured resin and then put them under the light

[@trebormills]

Oh no, might have to buy these

[@arcadedelprof]

you could brush the ball joint with a small amiunt of resin and cure it with a UV flashlight to make them a little less lose (if the ball joint is the issue that is)

[@gsargent1970]

Can I ask what is your ratio of flexable resin to normal resin you are using? Also are you hollowing out those pieces prior to printing or are they solid? Great content!

[@joking_oregon1]

Resin printing model kits is elite

[@jakesells2379]

If the joint is loose, you could try dipping the ball of the joint in resin and curing. That should close the gap.

[@timhughes6674]

I like the idea of what this is and how they look but i have yet to have a single print that didn't break when trying to assemble it. I will definitely have to try putting them together BEFORE curing, just to see if it goes better. I love the details on these, though.

[@teccotoys]

Hi Tim, depending on the resin you use, it might be better to assemble them after post UV curing, since that way you'll experience less dusting/powdering when the surfaces rub together. The best trick is to submerge the parts in a cup of hot water for 20-30 seconds. This will soften the parts and make them nicely flexible. The assembly is then fairly easy. Make sure to let the parts dry and cool down after assembly.

[@Adrian-mu8gg]

so would you rather recommend assemble them after or before curing? what type resin was it printed on? does it work with standard resin or ABS-like ones?

[@garfieldwithissuez]

As someone who really enjoys 3-D printing games workshops intellectual property is operating because he and he enjoys the game but hates the company I really get a kick out of how many times Uncle Jesse said the word space marine in this video even though they're not technically THAT kind of space marine.

[@UncleJessy]

More “space marines” coming up 🤣😂

[@garfieldwithissuez]

@@UncleJessy 🤩🤩🤩

[@DDCC35]

Could you tell me what build plate you got on your Neptune 2 in the short clip at 4:20, please? It looked so glossy and smooth, like glass, but on a magnetic steel plate... Very interesting combo 🤔

[@dragonling748]

How is the Mars 3 going? There was a flash sale a few days ago, but I didn't pull the trigger becuase I couldn't find anything on how they are holding up after 6+ months of use. I've got a mars 2 pro, and my only issue with it is the lower resolution.

[@onewaydown]

I had tons of issues trying to make some resin figure parts and add-ons. I just couldn't seem to get parts to fit and line up correctly. Whether that was just normal variances/shrinkage, or that also being increased with adding Tenacious, but I couldn't get stuff working with my Saturn. Had better luck with my Neptune, which I got after giving up on doing it in resin - lol.

[@stephenclark4114]

Just recently bought my first printer, the elegoo mars 3. What is the detachable build plate thing you use? Is that an addon?

[@Szandor_]

Great video, now i gotta go to learn how to do my own gijoes.