What's REALLY Inside That Abandoned Neglected Engine? We Look Inside An Engine Parked Since The 80s

[@brokentoolgarage]

Good stuff. I try to tell people that all the time. If you got the engine out, replace the gaskets oil pump and timing set. That gives a good look inside the engine too

[@Karkmotuning]

Exactly this happened to me and my son. Hus first car was an Aspen with a 318, that had stood in a barn for twenty years or maybe more. We got it running, he drove it for a little while, not much more than a few days. Suddenly it lost its oil pressure. The following winter I overhauled the engine. I didn’t find anything wrong with it, but the pick up was stuffed with crud. New bearings, rings and it ran beautifully after. So yes, cleaning the oil pan is worth your while if the engine runs good.

[@SuperDd40]

Tony, the engine was not on the scrap pile. It was "seasoning" outside.

[@fastinradfordable]

BMW 1500hp f1 engines We’re built from blocks that had over 100k miles and sat outside for at least one year.

[@andremarini7113]

@@fastinradfordable Not to mention they were pissed on by BMW staff

[@kevinmcguire3715]

Seasoning of cast iron is all around us. Bridgeport milling machine castings are supposed to be put out in the snow and heat of several summers before they are machined.

[@robertwest3093]

@@kevinmcguire3715 I heard that also...and I'm a machinist!

[@rosslefave5877]

If your parents didn't season u did they...

[@saxmusicmail]

I've seen sludge like that in a lot newer engines. On the other hand, I've seen engines that were well run, regular oil and filter changes, good quality oil used, and you could clean out the oil pan with a few paper towels.

[@geraldscott4302]

I ALWAYS change the oil in every engine I've ever owned, whether I built it or bought it, every 3000 miles. Period. NO exceptions.

[@jeffsr8300]

Just a note in addition to what Tony said, most engines can be lifted high enough with a bottle jack in order to remove the oil pan.

[@agostinodibella9939]

This is something I never thought about. After all those years all the dirt in the oil will have time to settle to the bottom. So it’s best to change the oil first before trying to start a car that’s been sitting for many years but then remove the oil pan to thoroughly clean it.

[@shanew.williams]

Good info. I'm now too old & lazy to drop a pan in the field,lol. Buti do like to drain the old oil then fill the crankcase with kerosene, repeat a couple times then add new oil & filter before starting the engine.

[@Carstuff111]

So, I am watching "The Island of Misfit Mopars" video from 3 years ago, and I have had a thought: I would honestly rather have and cherish your collection of vehicles over the collection of Jay Leno. I say this because ALL of your cars are built to be usable and easy to work on. The cars are not perfection to look at, but they are mechanically sound. Every time I see your car collection, my heart skips beats. And the best part to me? Your cars are rescues, they could have been scrapped but instead live again to be driven. And while you are not able to drive EVERY car you own, neither can Jay Leno. And your hands build every vehicle you own.

[@scottwilliams5196]

Super interested in the hypermiler engine project.

[@geose5589]

Same here. I daily drive a slant six, so i can get bonus advice since it's made for my exact situation.

[@johndoe43]

Good example of what really happens. Many need to see this video.

[@daviduglem3213]

Great advice Tony. I've made that mistake myself and gotten a clogged pick up on a 389 Pontiac.

[@vw4x4]

I've seen this hundreds of times myself. Great info. .... 🏆

[@Pico-hq7ws]

Everything Tony's said is TRUE, so not dissing - just adding/clarifying, as a former fuels/lube oil design engineer. Some of the additives in oil keep the fine particles, mainly carbon combustion related, in suspension. They can then keep flowing through the engine, avoiding clogging & damage. What happens over time (or overwork without service) is the additives "wear out" (the chemicals get used up). The suspended cr#p then drops out, either into the bottom of the pan - if you're lucky, or screws the motor if not. Whichever happens, you end up with the oil itself appearing "golden" and new because it is now free of all those pollutants. It is however "bad" as it has lost all the necessary additives. Keep up the great educational work UT

[@animoetprudentia2865]

Very informative, and explains what I experienced with my 84 Texas square body I revived in 14'. It had been parked 10 or more years. After making it roadworthy I drove it all the way to Michigan in June, no problems. That fall for some reason (can't recall why) I added some marvel mystery oil. Soon after the lifters started knocking, and oil pressure disappeared. Luckily I was only a few hundred yards from home. Pulled the filter and it was clogged. The lifters had collapsed, and the pump was clogged. I pulled the pan and replaced the pump and lifters right there in the gravel driveway. I figured the mystery oil had released sludge from somewhere in the block, but it didn't occur to me it had been lying in the bottom of the pan after driving all those miles. As always, thanks for the vid!

[@donaldhalls2189]

A couple of times, a car came into the workshop, we had to heat the pan to empty it, the oil was like sludge wouldn't run out without heat,our temperatures don't get low enough to freeze oil in Australia, all the best to yous and your loved ones

[@raybrensike42]

Wow this was interesting. I had imagined that the oil on the bearings might have turned to dry shellac or something, Not so, and I never thought that all that carbon could come out of the oil. So now I know what the best filter is to remove black carbon from oil....it's time, about 40 years worth.

[@mrkultra1655]

Thanks Tony

[@jamest.5001]

My dad and I would always get a old engine running, then pour about a gallon of gas in the pan let it set a few hours or days, drain it out, keep and solids out, then pour it back in, as close to directly in the pan as possible, then do it again with diesel or kerosene, it's not a bad idea to sit a heater under the pan, even I'd it gets the gas boiling, it will mix the sludge in with the gas, so it drains, this is Chevy engines mostly, that are not the easiest to remove while in the vehicle, it help to do a rinse and flush on anything that sits for a long time that has a lot of miles on it! The flush with diesel is preferred because it has more lubricant than gas or kerosene, kerosene is next, but gas seems to cut better, but only diesel will work great, use a old oil filter to pour the diesel or gas through to filter slightly before pour it back in, using a old Chevy oil pump and drill, to constantly circulate the solvent in the oil pan, would be good, flushing it out about as clean as it will get, but a couple fast oil changes would be good also about 500 miles and change the oil, looking at what comes out after a flush, if the flush keeps coming out gunked up the pan will probably need to come off,

[@adamturner8634]

I had a Ford 2v 4.6 engine and it was in a car that'd sat for roughly 7 years without running and I was putting it in a truck and the oil was clean I was just gonna drop it in and run it but last minute I dropped the pan and it had like an 1" of sludge

[@richardross7219]

Again, I enjoyed your video. Have you considered building a loft or shelving against the back wall? Storage areas make it easier to sort out parts. Good Luck, Rick

[@chrislafever4350]

I knew a guy years ago. He used to drain oil from his truck ( during a change) refill w/diesel fuel then start the engine for about one minute. Lifters would rattle like crazy but that diesel fuel would come as black as the used oil. I thought it was a dangerous practice but he swore by it.

[@gregconner4460]

I've done that for 30Years on my stuff I've owned a few hundred car's I will also add automatic transmission fluid to one that is sludged up and drive it a few thousand miles it will clean up the inside and help the oil pressure and lifters . Never had a problem with any of them.

[@shanew.williams]

You're right,it IS dangerous to the bearings in particular. Running on straight kero,diesel,gas etc. is just begging to knock out a rod bearing etc.

[@al_dente4777]

Years ago, they were usually guys. Nowadays, you practically need to have them submit to some sort of DNA test, to make sure

[@geose5589]

You're making me feel bad about my cars. My slant has 16k miles on it now after being brought back from a 20 year slumber. And every single other car i own has been sitting about that long before i came along. I'm just gonna pretend i didn't see this video and keep motoring along.

[@BrewBlaster]

I'll never forget this new customer family left an Astro van to fix because the oil light was on. Eventually I pulled the oil pan off and the oil had turned to a solid and you could shake it and it was quivering jello. Come to find out; this family' was somewhat mentally handy capped and they said they were never told they needed to change oil. Not being funny either. I truly felt bad for these people and I was angry no one explained this to them.

[@shotsrodder]

Great tip

[@brocluno01]

True enough. I come from the marine world and we never worried about oiling issues on boats that sat for a year or two at a time. Synthetic oils MAY have a somewhat lower surface tension than dino oils, and MAY drain off from some bearing clearances ... But if your bearings are anywhere near spec and it has been running on dino oil like that Slant, it'll have every capillary space filled with a film of oil. Cam lobes, well maybe not ... I wish guys (mostly) starting high dollar engines that have been sitting (say airplane engines) would fill them with oil to the breather to lube cam lobes and lifters, then drain down to dip stick levels before firing 🙄

[@cattlemenky33]

Uncle Tony,have you ever used map gas to clean oil gallies in an engine block,go to were you would put a oil pressure gauge an leak some map gas in the port an ignite with electric clicker thing on the torch

[@jamesblair9614]

On my own car, which had sat unused for over 20 years, I drained the oil, and the quantity that came out seemed like a fraction of what I would have expected, and the dip stick had shown a proper level prior, and I dropped the pan. The car had always had frequent oil changes, so it wasn’t dirty or sludgy at all, but a large quantity of the oil had gelled, and was hanging on every surface of the pan, it looked and felt like wheel bearing grease. I suppose it would have softened and started to flow as the engine warmed up, but I’m glad I cleaned it out first.

[@rodneybyrd9516]

I always marvel at the Flintsone-like crankshaft in the early /6!! I can see why they wanted the inertia to keep from bogging the little joker down when turning corners in 2nd gear, and that'll do it!! I think it also helps at low highway speeds in overdrive with the A833-o/d.

[@zachandoom]

I remember grandpa talking about this. When we'd revive a 350 we'd run it for awhile on the old oil. Then drain the oil, and drop the oil pan take the intake off clean out the junk put new gaskets oil filter. He would show me the pickup being almost covered in sludge. After that the engine would last many years. We saved a lot of money finding junkyard engines in wrecked trucks.

[@ricksalmon4916]

Good advice!

[@rusty-tv8qt]

This is good to know! I have a Shelby GT 350 that I park for the winter for 5 months . I've always worried about that first startup in the spring doing damage.

[@brucejones2354]

Do an oil change just before you store it for the winter. That will drain the oil while the junk is still suspended in it. With the new oil there isn't much to settle out.

[@rcnelson]

Still gotta lube the upper engine though, even if the crank is ok.

[@WilliamLaakkonen]

Great advice as always Tony- thanks- I hope this will serve as a warning for the revival folks. Drop that pan!

[@somewhatfast]

I just tore apart a flat head 6 plymouth 218 sat 48 years with hood open, carb off. Bearings were still oily. Pistons seized and valves seized beyond being reusable

[@einarkasbo163]

Back in the day i used to pour 3 liters of diesel one with cheapo oil into the engine after i had dumped the oil. Dissconct the coil and crank it. Sometimes i started it for a little while. 7 sec? Dump it . Then in with the new oil. Just something i did. Semed smart at the time.

[@johnsmith7676]

This actually works great. I've done it for over forty years. Most of the "motor flush" on the market is basically just this anyway- it's kerosene [diesel]-based, and just a way to part you with your money. Don't buy it ina can; buy it at the pump... It's MUCH cheaper, and works just as good. Sometimes I just add a quart of diesel to the existing oil, start the car, let it warm up to operating temperature, then shut it down and drain it all. New oil and filter after that, and you're done.

[@stevennix8680]

Uncle Tony, i have been with Chrysler and dodge dealers for 48 years in ny. one time a guy pulled an engine in a dodge dealer from a B van, put it on a stand flipped it over, it was winter at the time, pulled the pan off and it looked like a sludge jello mold! when he came back from lunch it had melted on the floor LOL!!!!

[@michaelshawnbarrett4285]

Hey Uncle Tony. I wanna say thanks for everything. Im working on a ford 200 log head and everything is made easier by your instructions- keep on rolling!!!!

[@ccfreedomseekerconstitutio8767]

Hey Tony moving to sweet water how far away will that be as I would like to meet you one day brother ❤

[@brucejones2354]

Just a tip I was reminded of when Tony said he might have to pound the pistons out. Get a bottle of Coke Classic ( you Have to use only that) and pour it into the cylinders then let it sit for a day or two. Those pistons will be easy to remove. My neighbor was restoring a Ford 429, and couldn't get the pistons out. He told me that he had tried everything and they still wouldn't budge. He was ready to put a hammer to them when I told him to do this. Later that week he came over and his first words to me were " don't drink Coke" ! I asked him why? He said he didn't believe me but it may be worth a try. After 2 days of the Coke he went out to try to remove the pistons. He bumped a piston with a hammer handle and the piston fell out and hit him on the foot. The rest of the pistons came out the same way, but he was ready to catch them. This will work on most things that are stuck, like the dasher in a washing machine, ask me how I know.

[@rcnelson]

And to think people drink that stuff by the liter.

[@rosslefave5877]

@@rcnelson 12 oz

[@zilksmooth]

You just destroyed Vice Grip Garage and Junkyard Digs. They’ve done several of these and never once mentioned the sludge issue or showed what their revived engines look like. I fully expect them to do it now though

[@MJRaymond]

VGG has spoken many times on this topic, not sure about Junkyard Digs. Derek from VGG says that the reason he always starts the cars on the old oil (unless it is contaminated with gas or water) is to warm the engine up so that all this sludge drains out on the first oil change. Like Uncle Tony said in the video it takes a couple hundred miles before this sludge will clog the oil pickup, so as long as you get the sludge warm it will drain out in the first oil change.

[@raoulcruz4404]

@@MJRaymond JD had made similar comments. He answered one of my comments and his method is the same as VGG and as UT said ( in most cases).

[@zilksmooth]

UT specifically mentioned that the pan needs to be dropped, that oil changes alone won’t do it - even several oil changes aren’t going to do it, that was my point.

[@michaelstagar525]

Excellent.

[@MJRaymond]

VGG has spoken many times on this topic. Derek Says that the reason he always starts his revivals on the old oil (unless it is contaminated with gas or water) is to warm the engine up so that all this sludge drains out on the first oil change. Like Uncle Tony said in the video it takes a couple hundred miles before this sludge will clog the oil pickup, so as long as you get the sludge warm it will drain out in the first oil change.

[@BrewBlaster]

I will use the science from this video in my post-apocalyptic sci-fi movie where people happen upon a hundred yr old gas motor and get it to start.

[@lilmike2710]

@@BrewBlaster Then receive a cease and desist notice from Warner Brothers. Claiming plagiarism of the Mad Max storyline, and brand. 😁

[@lilmike2710]

I've gotten kind of put off from VGGs videos lately. It was revival vids where he'd get em running and drive them home 300-800 miles. (I'm about to do one myself.) But here lately it seems that the channel is steering more towards "watch me enjoy the ridiculous wealth I've managed to accumulate." Don't get me wrong now... I'm as tickled as an Elmo doll in a McDonald's PlayPlace that he's done well for himself and his family. But what got me to start watching every upload was the cars that the average Joe could obtain and how he could get the most out of it without having to mortgage the farm.. I am happy to see him doing well though. I'm just sayin.. not hating on the guy. But it isn't the kind of thing that I wanna see. Hell, if you have plenty of money you can do anything you want.

[@MJRaymond]

@@lilmike2710 Yeah obviously the revivals are his best content. However he doesn't want the vehicles he saves to just have the same fate sitting on his property, so he is trying to either fix them up to sell or turn them into a cool project. I really respect him for that, nothing gets me annoyed more then guys who have a property full of classics but aren't willing to part with any of them so they just rust. But I do agree that he sometimes brushes over the high cost of parts he uses on his projects. Also what vehicle are you gonna be reviving?

[@jimmy_olds]

@@lilmike2710 I feel the same way.

[@daveduckworth1800]

I bought a complete parts car that was parked in a friend's driveway for 5 years and the engine oil was dirty when parked. I dragged that car onto a trailer (easier than working on it in friend's driveway). Got it home and decided to drain the oil before attempting to get it running. Removed the oil drain plug and nothing came out. Had to stick a screwdriver thru the drain hole to bust thru the sludge. Heated the oil pan with a 500 watt spot lamp for a couple hours to get the jelled oil to drain out. Yes, I pulled the pan and it was ugly in there.

[@nobodysgarage]

I'm getting ready to take apart a 225, I hope it doesn't need too much done to get it ready to put in my 64 Valiant wagon.

[@artjones2498]

Reminds me of a enging that had the old.quakerstate oil ran in it

[@anthonysantiago1999]

Did the hyper miler 170 come out of the mazda project? Should be an interesting project.

[@Pedalsteelguitarlife]

Great advice I will be dropping a oil pan soon 👍

[@al_dente4777]

I'll be dropping my drawers soon. Dingleberries are also a form of sludge

[@mannyR4098]

What happened to the turbo build?

[@zakuraayame5091]

curious as to what you can do with the little hypermiler ... maybe in the future you can take a big displacement and hypermile it; always wondered if I had the 75 Pontiac 400 today with a bit more brains than my youth, maybe I'd get more than 9 mpg out of it!

[@jaredcarlston9674]

Ive got a 390 in an old F250 I did the basics to and its managed low-20's before. Timing curve sis EVERYTHING.

[@armandomendoza3167]

Hey Tony. I remembered an old mechanic trick. For the same scenario. A mechanic poured 1 quart of diesel fuel into the engine oil that was sitting outside for years. It was primed an it was ran for a few minutes. Would this actually work?

[@animoetprudentia2865]

Can't say it works myself, but my Dad did the exact same thing when I was a teen. He bought a 77' Olds 4dr with a 403 from local guy. Didn't pay much for it, but it was a heap, and hadn't been maintained. I guess he thought the oil returns were clogged, so he drained it, then filled the crank case with diesel and let it idle for awhile - twice! I don't know if doing that achieved his desired outcome, but it was the family hooptie for a couple years. When it got passed to me it was using 2 quarts of oil for every 10 gallons of gas. I later sold it to my cousin for a few hundred bucks and he blew the motor in less than 2 weeks! (I warned him but he didn't listen).

[@armandomendoza3167]

@@animoetprudentia2865 Do you remember if it was smoking allot? I'm referring to the engine. Normally when the engine is worn out to a certain degree. Parts start to fail. I remember when if you had a bad lifter that was ticking. One would pull off the valve cover and adjust it while the engine was running. It also helped to see if the there was oil passing through. When there wasn't. Is when a pint of diesel was added. To the oil for a few minutes. Then the oil was replaced for a fresh oil. Which at the same time it kinda makes me wonder if that is what Marvel mystery oil is. Red diesel? I could be wrong. What do you think?

[@animoetprudentia2865]

@@armandomendoza3167 if I recall it did smoke a bit, probably due to some worn piston rings. I don't think the original owner kept up on oil changes, or air filters. Diesel has enough viscosity to lube a tired engine at idle, and it breaks down sludge. He wouldn't have tried it on a valuable vehicle. That car was scrap yard worthy, so it was the perfect candidate for a diesel cleaning experiment. I've been told that marvel mystery oil is very close to automatic transmission fluid, but with perhaps more detergent additives, and a few other ingredients. A mechanic friend claimed you could add a quart of ATF in the oil of older engines as a way to flush out carbon deposits, but don't take my word for it. Good luck!

[@lostwill86]

Question. What happened the turbo slant build with stooby?

[@marks8052]

supercharger would be cool too

[@Papajin68]

I asked that very same question a couple videos back! It was featured in a handful of videos and then just disappeared never to be seen again.

[@victormiranda9163]

not an answer to that question directly, however, a slant6 and a turbo is a bunch of tough engineering. I was not surprised that it did not carry on. how hard you ask? a replacement head is well worth considering, the crankshaft/mains is a bit of a weak spot and the oil pan will need revising. the cam/oil pump will need attention even if you don't turbo it.. all that is to get you to running. now lets talk about how to get it stay running...

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

Buff is the owner of that car now, it is one of his upcoming projects.

[@TMT915]

@@WhiteTrashMotorsports I thought the shemale bought it

[@MrMango222au]

tony tony tony the drama about pre oiling an engine before start up is about the same drama of stealing someone's leg and then pegging them with a pink flamingo

[@rwstillwater]

I believe the zinc additives you can add to oil comes out of suspension over time and can clog the oil pickup.

[@kramnull8962]

Dad bought a 94 F150 with a 5.0L that was parked 5 years before he bought it. Started to bring it home it sucked the sludge up and burnt the bottom end.

[@ridestreet20]

This explains it better than any other video I've seen on the topic. I've seen a lot of sludge and I've pulled a lot of oil pans but making it clear how the old sludge will never get picked up by new oil really 'solidifies' it.

[@geraldscott4302]

While I enjoy watching those shows where someone tries to start an engine that has been sitting for decades (especially VGG) but at the same time I cringe, knowing all the damage that is being done to that engine. I also watch a couple of "hot rod" type channels where someone is building a car, and they take an engine that has either been sitting in the back yard forever, or that they just bought from someone who had it sitting somewhere forever, put it in a car, and invariably have problems with it. When I build a car, first of all I only do one at the time, and second, I build the engine from the ground up. I check every single part, and replace most of them. All the bearings get replaced, the oil pump gets replaced, the crank gets reground if necessary, it gets rebored if necessary, the valves, valve guide seals, and valve seats get replaced, Everything that needs to get done gets done so I know there will not be any problems with that engine (well, most o0f the time anyway) but it's also part of the fun of building something. Making it right. Knowing it's right. There is a lot of satisfaction in that. I don't have a problem using old parts IF they are perfect. Many old parts are better than new reproduction parts. But I still have to see it, measure it, weigh it, and know that it is ok. Unfortunately, at 64 with bad knees and hip joints, I will not likely be building any more cars. I still have the last four I built, and I'm keeping them.

[@stephensaasen8589]

Saw Mortske try to revive a 1956 Chevy 210 sedan that hadn't run in 40 or 50 years. It was left in a field for a very long time where it flooded every spring and water got up a couple of feet during the thaw. The body was fine but the first thing he noticed was the oil pan was swelled. He suspected water got in it. Even though someone drained the pan at some point, it was way too late. The entire crank and internals were completely rusted and badly flaked. The tranny was locked and so was the diff. That's probably the worst I've ever seen.

[@calom4823]

Im still looking for a wooden leg in the backround !

[@ardennielsen3761]

I have seen oil pickups with a full bush or two's worth of hair trimmings clogging the pickup screen, fait of motorcycles... easy oil cap, stuff a few in here and their while there off and at it... 3 4 5 6 bushes of trimmings later and 43 miles of clunk till clank thud. was brand new... couldn't hear it tick over the sound of the muffler.

[@terrystewart2070]

Well crap(py pan sludge)! I've got a 73 CJ in my garage I been dinkin' with for a couple years...got a 360 out of a 75 Dodge in it. Hasn't rally been ran regular for about 17 years as near as I can tell. I've manage to put 3 miles on it. Guess the pan better come off....great.

[@ImpalaSSRulz21]

Haha the first oil change I did on my Impala looked like grey cottage cheese

[@dadalebreton184]

Transmission oil in my parked 15+ years 1976 360ci-727 winnebago was a exactly about this content. They changed the engine oil once a year back then. Beware if no or low maintenance was made to the vehicule. -85k miles, clean engine bay, no apparent rust on outside. The Guy told me he just changed the oil cause the the RV was parked a long time. The gasket was leaking a bit so i decided to change it and look inside the gut of the 360-6. Some say they have bigger connecting rods and more nickel in the casting for more heating resistance. The Engine oil pan wasn't that bad from sludge . It was the Transmission pan that looked like the devil's red tobacco spit. IT had turned into "gum". I could scrape it from the bottom like my mom peanut butter fudge. No signs of water but i'm sure the transmission oil wasnt changed since the low mileage. Beeing full of sedimentations, it was a thick like dry cup grease with chunks. Maybe the heat from high temp made it harder cause I had to clean the pan twice with oven cleaner and a thin scraper to have a better result. So Basicaly, your will be probably more prone to get a worse oil left over if no oil change or maintenance was made during the vehicule life. It happened a lot back then. Even if i cleaned the valve body troughly in diesel and acetone, the reverse started slipping after about 2000 miles. Maybe not related but i fully rebuilted it. Cant take any chance with kids aboard. If you see littles details that makes you Wonder if maintenance was done? It probably wasnt done. Beware of , the oil was just changed! The sludge inside is still there waiting like Uncle Tony warns about the first drive. Nice content explaining its not always real the "Will it run" fairy tales. It will starts, but wont hold without proper cleaning and inspection.

[@bw3506]

I have seen the plastic timing gear fail after sitting like that and the valve "seals" or umbrellas break up and clog the screen as well.

[@sometimesleela5947]

Very true. If you really want a sitting engine to have a normal operating life, there is no substitute for tearing it down, cleaning and inspecting it thoroughly. I really hate calling these things "rescues" only to kill an engine thats been waiting decades for a little tlc in the name of youtube views or donuts in a parking lot.

[@shedred1967]

And that sludge is why I use those engine cleaners added to the oil. Strips that shit right out of the motor. 5 minutes in a hot motor cleans them up fast. Fresh oil and no sludge in the pan, rings or walls and ypu will know what the condition of the motor actually is.

[@tnproudcountrys666]

Live from Portland tn love the ch a nnel bro!!

[@nonyayet1379]

i am probably picking up a ol boat with a 318 la engine (boat = big car). i want a 4 or 5 speed stick shift in it when i get done getting about 400hp out of the crank. what manual transmissions will bolt up to an LA engine, suitable for a car? [high performance, great efficiency (20ish plus mpg) street car (with a grin) is the goal] thank you sir... yer awesome! not sure what final drive differential i'll end up with.. 3.30 to 350'ish is sounding good.... (not a strip car, rather a hotrod mpg car) btw: I don't know if trick flow makes a twisted head for the la engine, but thinking, 210 heads with a mild or RV type cam, stock or Edelbrock style dual plane intake. long tube headers, if i can find a fit, or shorties (ughh) . the goal is to keep the Torque and HP down low for typical driving, yet be able to reach 400 hp at the crank. maybe even tossing an air pump under the hood after gapping rings, .028 on the bottom, and .030 on the top, setting boost at 13ish, giving a fella up to 17 or 20lbs if we want to get crazy. (probably carb, so no re wiring required). stock hub caps on wider rims, hopefully rear wheel disk brakes, if not 4 wheel anti locks if i can find hollander book type of match, or equivalent. probably won't add boost immediately, but might, knowing well managed boost equals max efficiency guidance requested. how would you change that recipe? I don't talk a bunch, but me and my son have been watching you for a long time now. I built my first successful engine at 16, 44 years ago.... but, nearest i can figure, nobody published, (if anybody at all) knows the mopar more than you. i am usually American made, but no other loyalty to engine manufacturer/s.

[@DanEBoyd]

UNCLE TONY, THERE'S SNOW ON THE GROUND AND YOU'RE OUT THERE IN JUST A T-SHIRT!! YOU'RE GOING TO CATCH A COLD!!!

[@al_dente4777]

He's from Noow Yoahk, don't forget. They're hardened by real winters

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

HOWdy U-T-G, ... Don't forget the "SLANT" MIATA ! COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...

[@johnbossems2849]

Great tips Tony.

[@wadepower447]

Tony, my question to you is not about your scrap pile engine. I would like your opinion on ZDDP break in oils. I have had my 71 LT1(the original version 70/72) rebuilt with one of Canada's well known builders. Billet Steel camshaft with steel distributer drive, solid roller lifters, etc. All the information available is "Use breakin oil with the ZDDP additive for the first 500 miles to properly seat the rings as this is the final honing process. I agree with that! But I do not subscribe to using the same manufacturer's hot rod oil afterward. I plan on using full synthetic oil after that. My engine (not a motor) is better built with higher quality parts than any of the top vehicle manufacturers. A lot of them do a 7 minute break in and some with low tension oil rings. But I digress. Do you have an opinion to share with me?

[@tomwinkle1597]

Did i miss the top end?

[@_Peremalfait]

Nice STP shirt, Tony. I can't see it without thinking about Andy Granatelli's Turbine Indy car.

[@peacemaker6156]

I wish you had made a video of installing headers on a 69 satellite. Omg. What a living nightmare. If i had known you have to remove tierods, the drag link, the starter, the engine mounts. Jack it 36 inches up on cinder blocks then crawl under it. Mother of .... im thinking cut new headers into pieces to install em.

[@zappa3543]

It was good Tony thank you

[@rockymeyers4030]

What about the old custom of running kerosene in the crankcase for a few minutes to flush out the sludge?

[@jamesunderdal8976]

Seafoam works great to.

[@lynchingacers]

Atf also works awesome it's a little aggressive for seals and frees up lifters and moving bits pretty well

[@brandonlink6568]

I use Liqui Moly engine flush but I haven't dropped my oil pan to see how good of a job it's doing

[@jeffrobodine8579]

@@lynchingacers Add some AT-205 Reseal to it after a flush.

[@Spike-sk7ql]

Marvel Mystery Oil works wonderfully. But let's be honest here... if you've got an engine with a 1/2" of sludge on the bottom of the pan, nothing is going to "work" on that. You're pulling the pan, and scraping it out with a paint scraper. Then throw a little gas in it, slosh it around, maybe work it with a brush, and put it back on. If you pull the drain plug, and nothing comes out, stop right there, and grab your tools.

[@michaelsulpizio606]

I was told when I was younger playing around with Harley Davidson used motors that when you find an old motor that has been setting around it had to be rebuilt because over the years moisture would build up in the lower end, mix with the oil and chemically cause an acid to form on the journals and bearing surfaces and had the possibility of etching or eating into the steel journals and eat away at the bearing surfaces!? Uncle Tony have you ever seen this. Or is this situation rare!?I believe I’ve only seen it once! Is it prone more in Air cooled engines like Harley’s and less in water cooled engines!? I think sludge was worse back in the 40s, 50s, 60s because detergent type oils were not in wide use yet and not perfected quite yet! The Paraffin build up in the engine used to be quite Heavy almost like black butter! Regards Mad Mike S. ❄🥶⛄🧊………

[@UncleTonysGarage]

Those are roller bearing engines, and just the slightest bit of surface rust can kill the rollers pretty quickly

[@650gringo]

"The filter takes out chunks." LOL> And that's about the size of it. I have been saying for years that our auto oil filters are nothing but a way for somebody to make money. They hardly filter anything. What is being sold for oil filters is nothing but "chunk filters". Don't depend on oil filters to keep oil clean. The cleanest oil you will ever have is the new oil in a bottle.

[@Spike-sk7ql]

I see it all the time. Especially in the newer stuff. I've found gray oil in more cars than I'd like to admit are still driving down the road. You hold a light up to the drain barrel, and can see the ribbons of silver dancing around in the oil. I'm about to start mounting magnets in every one of my customers oil pans that I take off.

[@Clawson_customs]

Do u know what micron a typical oil filter is on a vehicle? It definitely filters out way more than just the chunks as Tony said

[@Hybridknfgrowchannel]

Iron blocks age like wine.

[@3rdpig]

I knew an old dude when I was a kid who would take these old engines that sat for a long time, drain the oil and refill it with either kerosene or diesel fuel, run it for a few minutes, drain it out, fill it with the cheapest oil he could find, run it till it warmed up really good, then drain it, fill it back up with kerosene or diesel and repeat until it came out clean. Not as good as dropping the pan and cleaning it, but on some of the vehicles he worked on dropping the pan required pulling the motor.

[@timothykeith1367]

The 170 hypermiler sounds fun. I'd like to slant swap a Dakota - it would need the firewall cut/indented to fit - which is how the 4.0 Jeep six fit into the XJ. The tilted motor would interfere with the heater core box so it's probably not worth doing - but here in South Texas I could adapt an aftermarket heater The 170 would be a little more compact than the 225 - the radiator core support would also be modified to limit the set back of the motor. I have an Eaten supercharger to make up for the lower torque of the 170. We don't have emissions testing here.

[@jeffrobodine8579]

It would be interesting to see what mpg you can squeeze out of a 170.

[@chazzcoolidge2654]

who needs emissions testing, right? hope that supercharger works out well!

[@yurimodin7333]

I hate to be that guy but it might me easier working with the v6 thats already there

[@chazzcoolidge2654]

@@yurimodin7333 strap two turbos on and it may be a certified sleeper

[@shanew.williams]

Years ago,another reason for sludge,even in a low mileage engine was use of oils with a lot of paraffin base (wax). One leading brand had a slogan which i changed slightly.."When the Big Q Flows, America Blows." 😆

[@erich8422]

Awesome

[@rescuedandrestoredgarage]

Definitely need to make sure the engine is clean. Some pans are hard to get off. I wonder what the toughest would be.

[@Spike-sk7ql]

A 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4WD.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

@@Spike-sk7ql was thinking a 4wd/AWD Chevy from that era , just awful.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Depends....might be pulling the engine at that point to do it. And here comes the snowball of while we are in there......if it did have to come out, a new gasket set all around might not be a bad idea and give it a Rust-Oleum rebuild.

[@yurimodin7333]

@@MrTheHillfolk especially the ones with the CV shaft running through the pan

[@assymcgee2835]

I'd say a 2009 DTS is pretty awful, but the 2013 s550 4matic is POW torture. I would rather do life in prison than work on another European car

[@fredmacdonald9339]

the mid 80s was 40 years ago!!!!!!.......now im depressed and need to find an old folks home

[@al_dente4777]

If you've ever seen what kind of chicks live in those homes, you'd likely change your mind. At least, they're not so stuck up like the younger ones once tended to be

[@3gcraftsman]

Great tip. Thanks

[@al_dente4777]

All of my earlier cars were pharmacy vehicles, if you know what I mean 😵‍💫

[@raiderjohnthemadbomber8666]

I've rebuilt a couple of engines that must have used Pennzoil or Quaker State. I make that statement due to the amount of gunk in the pan. Talking about imprisoned oil made me think of Slick 50 and their P.T.F.E. additive. We've been using P.T.F.E. as an assembly lube because when you imprison it you'll never worry about spun bearings and other things of that nature. Thanks for the lesson Tony it was informative and done well.

[@leebuck180]

Even just 20 years of sitting will sludge up the pan like that.

[@KimPassable]

To add to the mystery, that motor was sitting out there without a head or a tarp for literal months. I would have thought the water had made it past the rings and rotted out the whole bottom end. Interesting to see oil still in the main caps,

[@MoparMan-ff8fb]

Did they use Quaker State or Pennzoil ? The inside of that oil pan looks like it was scrapped off the bottom of the Mississippi river . Tony dont forget to reduce the oil hole on the slant6 blocks . Shane at Slant daily garage has a video on that and the bearings will thank you especially 5 and 6

[@mdumas7856]

A long time ago I lost two engines from sludge and old valve seals plugging the oil pick up. Recently did a short vid showing the sticky crud that accumulates in the pan.

[@Spike-sk7ql]

Regular oil change schedules, using good oil, and a good filter will prevent sludge buildup.

[@mdumas7856]

@@Spike-sk7ql they were old engines in old cars revived shortly for transportation.

[@rctopfueler2841]

S T P sidelined tony projects? sunday tennessee programming? save those pistons? we are dying to know lol

[@karlx-1]

Clogging the pickup is is the key issue. I ran engine flush in my girlfriend's old 70 Caddy when I was a teen, thinking I was doing a good thing. 20 minutes later-- KNOCK-KNOCK! Who's there??(besides the motor)... My girlfriends's dad at the door yelling at me for spinning the 472 bearings!!

[@josephtravers777]

Yep, I toasted the bearings in a 240 Ford flushing it with diesel. Old engines that didn't get proper oil changes develop a lot of hard cake. That slant 6 oil pan is a lot cleaner than most I've seen on old engines.

[@MCarrick-ss7xc]

I thought all engines had sludge in them. Until I ripped apart a newer version.

[@mediumjumbo7484]

We are gonna need a walkaround on your tri 5 pile :-)

[@jaredcarlston9674]

Get it running, drop the oil/filter, fill pan with enough gasoline to soak that garbage, let it soak, drop gasoline, flush with more gasoline, fill with oil and the good old ATF trick/new filter and call it good. Change the oil more frequintly over the next few thousand miles. $15 in fuel and $12 of ATF sure beats potentially yarding a motor to clean out the pan.

[@PedroMDIX]

About the block with the locked rust pistons? Patience and a lot of rust remover would not free them up?Even if like i said patiently draining and putting again,await a week,repeat?

[@deanhawes5088]

this is why vicegrip runs an old engine on diesel oil untill hot / a few miles then dose oil and filter ? some times he changes the iol /filter 2 or 3 times on the 700 mile home journey

[@lawrenceveinotte]

Unless i can look at the cylinder walls and make sure there is no rust, i would not even roll the engine over, you will destroy the pistons and tear up the walls. that's on an engine i want to keep, if i don't care then whatever, break it loose and let it eat itself.

[@forthwithtx5852]

I got something outta that.