Unclog a Charcoal Fuel Vapor Canister - EASY FIX

[@TungstenCarbideTempe]

Thas the kind of guy I admire. I mean there are dudes who dont even know how to change a freaking( or regular) light bulb so they call a specialized, certified,freaking company and get charge a bunch of money because they are afraid that "whAt if I do it wrong thing", and there are dudes like this guy whos utilizes his head and gets the job done and has a heart to share with the rest of the us. Thanks man. Ill go try to clear that EVAP code on my old lexus now.

[@everythingismediocre]

+TungstenCarbideTempe Did your code clear???

[@jomi9858]

TungstenCarbideTmpr. That's true, plain and simple. I've saved some good amount of cash just because these good guys that like to share their skills to fix problems that sometimes look hard to get done by us.

[@bobody6258]

Marc Hauser Brakes are easy. Buy the Haynes manual and watch a couple videos. Take your time and buy the right tools for the job. I can't count the times I've had to run to buy tools mid-job. Anyway now I have lots of tools and experience/confidence. Dive In!

[@RVLady]

Hi! I'm a full-time RVer with a 1994 28' Coachman and I tow a 1987 Suzuki Samurai. I over-filled the Suz with gas and noticed the odor of raw gasoline. And, I knew, I'd over-filled the tank and figured to wait until the smell went away. It didn't go away! I'm mechanical and checked all the obvious things i.e. fuel line, fuel cap, carb, etc. nothing! No leaks, drips or moisture of any kind and no smell of raw gas in any of those locations. So, I put the word out on my channel while also checking YT for the possibilities and found you. You described exactly what I was experiencing and I think WD-40 can really fix anything, really!! So, I didn't take the canister off but treated with WD-40, squirting it down into the holes of the canister after removing the tubey things, of course. Repeating the process the following day, I let it sit. On the 3rd day, I drove her and there was NO SMELL OF RAW FUEL!!!! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! You explained it beautifully and I was successful and happy I didn't take it to a shop who (we both know) would have replaced my entire fuel line, then blame the carb and rebuilt that, then blamed the gas cap, then . . . well, I think you get my point. Again, thank you for posting your video and (I always close my comments and videos this way) Be Brave! :)

[@RVLady]

RV Lady I forgot to mention - you're a genius!!! Be Brave! :)

[@mightyluv]

Thanks for posting this; I have an ancient canister that I removed/bypassed from an old truck but would like to confirm it works and reinstall it. I wouldn’t use WD-40 for this, it dries to a sticky film that may decrease the effectiveness of the charcoal. Somebody suggested a drop of oil into the hose connections, that might work as well. Use the WD on your chrome wheels this winter, it’ll keep them from rusting.

[@robertgreenfield9051]

To those concerned about this method contaminating the fuel system, consider this. On a typical fill-up, you are putting about a gallon of ethanol into the system. That amount of ethanol is far more damaging than a few ounces of WD-40. The major concern is the heavier non volatile ingredients absorbing into the carbon. A good follow up dose of MAF, TB. or carb cleaner should disolve this.

[@jimbo9374]

Thanks worked on 2005 impala ! Couldn't pump a few cents at a time and took forever but did bout same as you and worked!! Thx!!

[@BEEBEE159]

My EVAP canister looks very similar. I have a Toyota Supra. I got a used cheap canister off of Ebay. I cut it open to see how it works. You are correct, those two hose fittings have check valves (two little BB's, one for each hose fitting) just like a carberator. The little BB's get dirty from the carbon and fuel; and they get stuck. Spraying WD-40 into the hose fittings lubricates the BB's, and frees them up. By the way, there is no way to get these apart without cutting them open. The aluminum hose fitting on the top of the canister is rivited or welded in. These canisters have been discontinued. They can be rebuilt; but they would have to be welded back together.

[@luispardo7584]

lol i have a supra also , 1995.. i was doing doing my build to sup the engine head, and it was up in the lift for months and this problem happened when i started almost finishing my build. i just used lighter outlet with a air pump attachment.. and this solved my problem though.

[@johnminshell7595]

I enjoyed you Presentation clear and no Stupid Music or waffle.

[@candorguy]

I always wanted to know how to check the vapor canister and now I know. Thanks a million!

[@user-px6qo2jr8x]

Thanks brother I'm having that issue my car is like 16 years old it's a good car but like you said I've actually that is going to have issues I never looked into it until I had the problem happen and I'm always looking for these DIY videos thanks man why pay money to have somebody fix it pay that extra money when you can just do it yourself

[@morebouncebassppe2611]

Thx bro. Good info for my sake. As of today i could not find a video until today. My valve had my engine light on. Cant get a smog yet. Diagnostic reads that the valve has a leak. So i figured maybe its stuck a little. I didnt wanna mess it up so i searched for a video and you're the only 1 making fucking sense. Amazingly my vavle is blowing air clearly. I took it off after 2 hours so now re do the process and sit it for longer. Not taking any chances. Its sitting as i type. So thx again you rock bro. Ill let you know how it does tomorrow

[@locksly1973]

Lot of thanx Save money and time I make this process with carburator cleaner first and after w40 small amount work great on my Acura TL 2006.

[@dpend90]

Thanks my car doesn't smell like fuel anymore.! Great Video

[@sajmir6253]

I learned a lesson don't fill your gas to max or let it go to nearly finish because that's the real cause based on experience

[@RVLady]

I forgot to tell you - you are a genius! :) Be Brave!

[@govardhanyarra9954]

Hi

[@michaellore3971]

You're a lifesaver. Thank you. Brilliant

[@nicholasreith6370]

You may be right about the valve sticking, but in that case a drop of oil is worth a try. WD40 tends to gum up over time, so I'd avoid that. The bigger problem with the method you show is that you talk about filling it with WD40 and letting it sit. This is exactly what causes the charcoal to fail when people top off their tanks and flood the charcoal with liquid fuel instead of vapor. I don't think WD40 would be any different. If it's a sticky valve, use a drop of oil. Actually though, I don't believe there are valves inside the canister, just on the electric doodads that attach to it. But, if it's dead charcoal, and you want a cheap fix, drill a big hole and shake out all of the charcoal. Then refill it with new activated charcoal from the aquarium section of a pet store.

[@syyenergy7]

I did this over 2 years ago and it still works. I'm not telling you what to do. I had no problems doing what I shown here.

[@jeankouam1529]

By

[@camiloguti6042]

How about some aroecroil lube or rust penetrant which is more for releasing rusted/corroded/seized parts. Giving this a try today.

[@rogjackson]

Clever. Never, ever, underestimate the power of WD. Shit is magic Yo. Good video! Keep the magic coming.

[@Mprikiman]

That was a great video, thank you!

[@AdirondackAmerican]

For folks complaining, or pointing out contamination by soaking with wd40.... perhaps try using MAF cleaner in it. It is about the closest thing to pure ether we can get here in NYS (with the worst vehicle emmissions laws in the nation). But the ether will unclog it and evaporate 100% in seconds or minuts at most if you really douse the heck out of the canister. Idk if MAF cleaner will work since it has no lubricating properties, but it will get the gunkout for sure.

[@sgtpepper1138]

+kerry pratt Yeah, I was thinking MAF or Throttle Body spray as well.

[@arthursilva2005]

+sgtpepper1138 You can use Electrical Contact Cleaner too since it's the same exact thing as MAF cleaner and leaves no residue or deposits behind.

[@qanononabong8491]

@Donald Doct0r Did it work?

[@bladerunner1680]

Donald Doct0r how did you hack the ecu and set the monitors? This info could be a godsend.

[@BasVossen]

I'm sure California has the worse emission laws.

[@whatdo6714]

gonna have to try this. been smelling a lot of gas in the cabin of my 86 mr2. my charcoal canister could be the problem so hopefully this can fix it

[@willyum7766]

WARNING: Explosion @1:05

[@cincomorales]

WillYUM hahahaha

[@jamie0]

LOL

[@Ghost.uppercut]

its cool you fixed it. i just worry about all that wd40 going back to the engine lol. it won't ruin the engine but it could harm seals or variable valve timing in the intake. Just keep that in mind. Also make sure your purge valve is working correctly so it purges that cannister when it needs too

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

wd 40 can also force the charcoal to deactivate and the charcoal canister is only supposed to have gas vapor in it if it gets liquid gas in it or any oil based solvent it causes the charcoal to deactivate and then you get a check engine light

[@Threedog1963]

Will a clogged canister cause a "Check gas cap" message to appear on the dash? I have that happening, plus, it takes forever to get gasoline into the tank because the pump keeps shutting off because of the pressure buildup.

[@syyenergy7]

yes

[@paulanwr1]

It worked for me. 1991 Land Cruiser

[@josegarrido7021]

Thanks man, i'm gonna try it on my sienna 2005...cross my fingers

[@DaveZula]

Thanks for the tip! Do you think this method would be worth attempting to fix a stuck diverter valve? That little thing costs $200 - $350 and I'm wondering if it can be cleaned instead of replaced. I have an '83 Camaro with a carburetor, by the way.

[@SCRIDify]

So if there's a valve in there did you try and apply vacuum to verify the valve is still in working order? Otherwise it may be possible that the compressed air damaged the valve so it's just open all the time.

[@syyenergy7]

Chris Marescalco I tested it.

[@roberthoyt1518]

Flush it with gas are carb cleaner nice Tip are you going to use it

[@larryleisuresuit9584]

I had a plastic housing one, a big one , blow up when I was cleaning it because I put too much air input in it. i am just commenting because after it exploded and i got over the shock of what happened, everything in there was dry as a bone. so i am pretty sure it;s supposed to be dry inside. I was just trying blow out all the dust that seemed to be feeding back into my tank and clogging my fuel strainer socks. it was working till I got a little too much air in it and it exploded, not just a little one, it was Loud AF and shrapnel went everywhere. the charcoal stuff looks like rat turds. there is also some kind of weird spring system in them and a baffle and a poly fill type filter up front that gets clogged with dirt.

[@jnunez1203]

😂

[@jerryli7061]

Thanks this saved my 50 bucks, I put wd40 for an hour, mine canister valve back to work

[@1001Hobbies]

What about the WD40 saturating the charcoal? You may be getting air through it, but is the charcoal still able to absorb gas fumes when it is soaked with WD40?

[@syyenergy7]

WD40 evaporates

[@1001Hobbies]

syyenergy7 According to the WD40 website, the fluid that carries the effective ingredients evaporates but the rest does not. "The corrosion and rust protection ingredients remain adhered to the surface."

[@syyenergy7]

1001Hobbies It's not like you are soaking the charcoal canister is a gallon on WD40. Additives are in gasoline too. Buy a new charcoal canister.

All this smog crap is bs, the environment is already fu*ked,...get over it, figure out a work around and move on

[@leesire]

You may be right Syenergy7, but after reading most of the comments I think I will just buy an evaporator canister and solenoid if I need it. Maybe use the old canister for target practice.

[@syyenergy7]

Whatever. Comments are generally from "armchairs". I actually make things work.

[@Seriouslydave]

I would give it a try first, then replace it if it doesnt work.

[@FelipeZucchetti]

Thanks for the tip...worked for me...

[@chriscannova2393]

How are you going to get the WD out

[@manwiththeplan7143]

Any time that it leaks from the bottom does that mean it’s clogged and pressure/valve isn’t opening

[@Laggin6]

Awesome tip, thank you!

[@matreyia]

Inside the canister are charcoal pellets. These pellets lose their effectiveness when any liquid chemical comes into contact, thus to clean a canister, one uses only compressed air and avoids any chemical liquids.

[@syyenergy7]

I was freeing up the valve that was stuck shut with WD40, not filling up the canister. Compressed air alone didn't work. If you don't like this , then go buy a brand new one.

[@Resq28]

Thanks for posting

[@tombyorn8278]

Are you from Delaware

[@jasoncook5307]

the charcoal is in a sack, the sack ruptures and the tiny pellets flow through the system plugging every line and components. if you saturate the pellets it will likely rupture the sack or sand eats a hole in it. replace it the first time and not get stuck with a can of worms.

[@sergiovalencia3031]

jason cook e

[@vangaynor570]

i may have been over filling my 06 acura tl and now i have a p0443. i took of my purge valve and ran a 9v battery to it and heard the clicks. if there is raw fuel where its houldnt be would i cause that code?

[@syyenergy7]

***** Yes. most likely or a broken hose. More likely the purge solenoid.

[@DustyCowdog]

My understanding is that the charcoal canister is filled with charcoal beads... to filter vapors. After a couple thousand miles, the screen that keeps the charcoal together, breaks down and it blows charcoal beads all the way up to the solenoid closest to your intake manifold. I slid the hoses off of the solenoid closest to my intake manifold and sure enough, there where thousands of little beads of charcoal. I don't think squirting a bunch of WD-40 will remedy this issue. I don't know how it could. I have charcoal beads throughout my lines... my experience is with a 1997 Nissan Pathfinder w/ 230K miles. Thanks for the video though.

[@twins4561]

DustyCowdog.. This is whats happening to my Nissan as well! I unhooked the hoses attached to the solenoid and a bunch of those pellets fell out.. how did you fix this??

[@DustyCowdog]

Hi... it was a bit complicated for me, I did try to do the repairs myself, but I live in Texas and the heat was too much while being chewed on by ants. Basically, once the charcoal canister is dropping the beads, it is shot. I went to RockAuto.com to order the parts. I bought the canister for about $162.00 and then the solenoid that is attached to the canister and that was about $160.00 or so... and then I bought the little strange solenoid thing that is under the hood where the beads were coming out of. I found a mechanic that was willing to install the parts that I bought. They need to blow the vapor line out with a compressor to get all the charcoal beads out of the system. They charged me $90.00 to install the canister and solenoid (both go under the vehicle in the rear near the gas tank) and blow the line out and install the other solenoid under the hood. I spent a total of about $345 on parts and $90 on install. It would have been about $650 or so if they did the parts and install themselves. I hope this helps. They cleared the code and the check engine light has not come back on. Good luck... it is a pain, I think.

[@BasVossen]

@@DustyCowdog it's more then a pain. It is government subsided theft of tax payer's income.

[@randy1ization]

its just a holding tank for gas fumes until engine activates evap purge solenoid and sucks it into engine to burn

[@TeunS133N]

where is the bottom one supposed to go, on mine there is a tube but it is broken of a part.

It's the fresh air inlet.

[@vela07]

The valve is similar to a pcv valve which also get stuck after years of operation. So long as that one way valve works, the vacuum from the engine should draw the built up fumes from the gas tank and charcoal can into the engine to be burned in combustion

[@syyenergy7]

+RVela Exactly :)

[@philstat100]

Thank You.

[@johnhutchinson3563]

Any issues with passing emissions test after doing this fix?

[@syyenergy7]

+John Hutchman The vapor canister will not effect any emission test at the tailpipe. >The canister seems to work fine.

[@jonnda]

+syyenergy7 in my area, they no longer test emissions at the tail pipe, and test the car with the cars own computer. Any emissions related failure codes, means a failed test. So I decided to cough up $140 for a new Acura Integra vapor canister.

Emissions testing is a joke, another scam for the liberals to make $$$. The damage to the ozone is already done. Big oil owns ur state senators....Do whatever it takes to pass...if u can cheat do it

[@fluffybears400]

How long do u have to let it dry after u spray wd40 into it

[@syyenergy7]

a couple days

[@ThomasJoseph315]

As per the price,.. look up a 1991 Chevy Corvette vapor canister... your welcome :)

[@youmang]

If my truck doesn't have the emissions stuff can I jut bypass the charcoal canister?

[@TheSunnyTrails]

You Mang this is a emmissions thing

[@deebrown8327]

is that choral can on my truck

[@deebrown8327]

I found out that my fuel pump had a hair line Crack in got a new and I no longer smell gas

[@sandraweddle1574]

Ok, I was told that my canister needs replaced, but if I can clean it that would better. I don't know I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla. This doesn't look to hard to replace. What you guys think?

[@dimitriseals4389]

Costs mor to replace.

[@frankmcilvenny400]

More than likely, the charcoal will no longer be active. Creative though.

[@syyenergy7]

A little WD40 won't hurt. What do you think is in gasoline and gas additives.

[@frankmcilvenny400]

It is a good quick fix if another canister is not available. The charcoal in the canister needs to be changed as it's catalytic effect has been reduced through time. The true test would be a smog test after the quick fix vs. changing the the canister for a new one.

[@syyenergy7]

The valve was stuck. It had nothing to do with the charcoal.

[@Airel17]

Frank McIlvenny smog testing is the biggest scam the states have ever pulled on its citizens they got caught where I live and voters fought after news crews exposed the poor testing and making people go to mechanics and then pay to retest their cars it did make Gordon & Darby millionaires they received 7$ while the state received 1$ per car tested. And our pollution hasn't changed since our state stopped making tax payers test their cars. It's a hoax designed to line the pockets of the wealthy while claiming it makes for better pollution control. I'm sorry you still have to go through those hassles and waste time and money.

[@BasVossen]

@@Airel17 I completely agree! Even after I passed the emissions test, but failed on Evap, the same smog shop had to do the entire emissions test again. CO2 reduction by government rule? My ass!

[@miloaaron8388]

I just really need to know how the car performs if the canister is bad. and not one video addresses that issue. someone please tell me how the car will act if the canister is bad PLEASE!

[@BEEBEE159]

The main symptom of a clogged canister is the smell of gasoline fumes in the engine compartment. That information comes straight from the Toyota Shop Manual on my 1991 Toyota Supra that has a canister very similar to the one in this video, but just twice the size. Also, I purchased a used one off of Ebay, and I cut it open to see how it is constructed. Just as the guy in the video suspected, there are three check valves, one for each of the hose fittings (including the one on the bottom of the canister). The check valves are little BB's. These BB's get dirty, and as a result they get stuck. Putting a few drops of oil or a very small amount of carb cleaner helps to lubricate them, so that they can roll around properly. The inside of the canister is not just carbon, as some have suggested. My canister, which is about twice as big as the one in the video, had 1 lb. 13 ounces of carbon, a large spring, two metal dividers, and two filters.

[@miloaaron8388]

thank you that is very helpfu to me. my madza b2200 is having what seems like carb issues. I think a few of the dozen vacuum hoses are not in their proper place. and the throttle acts like the the secondary barrel isn't working. no power, bogs out, and stalls. and i do get a smell of fuel i am convinced the canister has to be the problem. but it has been a pain in the but to diagnose the exact problem.

[@classic-kool]

Good job trouble-shooting ... any problems with contamination by the WD-40 in the fuel system?

[@syyenergy7]

classic kool None, that I can tell. Considering that WD40 is a petroleum distillate and all the additives in gasoline and that can be added to gas, I can't possibly see how it would be any problem.

[@denardcoles6463]

syyenergy7

[@kellykeys6092]

Typically, the two larger ports (inlets) connect to hoses that run from your fuel tank and to the intake manifold. The smaller port connects to a valve inside that only allows fuel vapors to travel through the canister from the gas tank to the intake manifold once the engine runs at a certain RPM or above. Otherwise, if it allowed fumes to pass through at idle, the vapors would cause the engine to run like crap by messing up the air/fuel ratio and maybe even foul your plugs. Good luck getting through emissions with that not working correctly. However, the flow of vapors are fine once the engine is running faster and sucks the vapors in for proper detonation at higher RPM's. At least that is how it works on my 1987 Dodge Caravan 2.6. I would imagine they all work the same way for the same reason.

[@MR..181]

300$ for a 30$ part ..stoked much? Sabatoge?

[@californiaman8885]

I not so sure it's good ideal to put wd40 because I just watch video from Universitymotorsltd title(charcoal absorption canister) he open by tisting the canister and he burned off gasoline that had absorbed into charcoal.

[@californiaman8885]

Look to me like the clogged canister may cause by degraded filter foam that may blocking vent hole since there no check valve inside the canister. Have you try use vacuum or compressor air to unclog it since the canister can not be open?

[@syyenergy7]

CaliforniaMan I tried compressed air. This is what worked. The canister is supposed to absorb gas fumes and then send the gas to the carb, so a little WD40 will not hurt it, since it will just go to the carb.

[@rodbuilder3657]

Or..........better yet, toss the damn thing in a dumpster and connect the tubes together!

[@p3l1k44n1]

The charcoal canisters job is to take all that fuel vapor you'd be venting in the air and put it right back in your gas tank.. The charcoal canister basically "gives you better mileage" by taking otherwise vented outside fuel vapor and putting it back to the engine. Removing it will vent the fuel vapor into the atmosphere. This could be a health risk if you park your car in a well sealed garage and use it for years like that. You'd be inhaling fuel vapor every time you go in your garage. Also if you completely block it so no fuel vapor can escape, you'll implode your fuel tank by rupturing it. As you know, if you keep sucking air out of a tank, the tank will start to get negative pressure.. Once the negative pressure gets too high, it'll crack. Well imagine your fuel pump sucking and sucking a blocked tank and no air could go in. The charcoal canister is not a power robbing economy part to the car. It's there to take the fuel vapor and give it back to you for use instead of venting it outside to waste.

[@rodbuilder3657]

It's a real mystery to me how the automakers and Washington get idiots like YOU to believe all their bullshit about how they can eliminate pollution. C'mon dude, you can't POSSIBLY be stupid enough to believe that this "filter" bullshit is preventing anything - DO you? And if so what the hell do you think happens when you take your gas cap off, or when the driver of a gas tanker opens the lid on him trailer to fill it with gas? Ditto for the catalytic converter, unleaded gasoline and restrictions on diesel engines..

[@p3l1k44n1]

Classic cars like my 60's ford let the fumes out constantly. It's a never ending fume maker. You don't leave your fuel cap off at all times don't you? The time you open your fuel cap for a refill is a very short time. Don't you hear a sizzle when you open your fuel cap? All that pressure.. And FYI. I bought a car that had a charcoal canister delete. The fuel tank ruptured because of that. So after changing the fuel tank, i know why the charcoal canister is there. Never enclose a fuel tank. They need replacement air so it doesn't create a vacuum. It ran like shit too because it couldn't suck fuel in the engine because of idiots like you who believe it's a power robbing emissions tool.. HAH! Different story on the catalytic converter though. Those things DO rob power. Thank god i don't have one of those. But i'd rather have a charcoal canister than vent fuel out.

[@JacquesPPage]

Rob Builder: besides being offensive, you are also ignorant, which makes for a very bad combination.

[@rockyfish3115]

That canister is for vapor not liquid

[@theicediamond7]

pulling a vacuum on a gas tank turn the last quarter of the fuel into asphalt. you wonder why new car sludge up?