▼ Unclogging Nozzle on Da Vinci Pro 1 and 3in1

[@BrittCHelmsSr]

Thanks for this video. I've had this printer for many years and have never had a clog that I couldn't clear while the print head was in the machine. I wasn't so lucky this time. Your video gave me enough information and visual guidance to be able to pull the whole hot end out of the machine and clear the clog that occurred as one roll of filament ended and the next one tried to feed in behind it. I had a piece of the old filament stuck in the insulating tube just above the print head. Many thanks, as I'm printing again.

[@AvidJeeper]

I couldn't get filament to extrude even though I could poke the cleaning wire through. I took the head apart, as demonstrated in your video, and found that the "nylon like" tube inside had clogged with carbon. the wire would go through, but the filament would not! I cleaned it out and cut just a slIver off, and all is well now. Thanks!

[@linzero3664]

"nylon like" is actually teflon

[@williamkeicher6488]

Excellent video on unclogging the DaVinci Pro 3D printer!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks so much for your kind words.

[@ManxHavenIOM]

Thank You for this instructional video. Been very helpful.

[@hbos5200]

thanks for the clear explanation

[@kelanel]

Very nice video. Just saw this after heating the hot end still with the liner on. Do you know where I can get some to replace it? I see PTFE widely available at that size (2mm ID & 3mm OD) but not nylon.

[@3dPrintCreator]

You can use the PTFE tube without a problem. Make sure you use a drill to curve the inner edge of the PTFE on the side where the filament comes in.

[@alfa357]

Thank you so much! This is a great video, I was able to fix my printer thanks to you, Amazing

[@3dPrintCreator]

Nice to hear that Ana. Have some good quality time with your printer :-)

[@wernerwug]

Thank you so much helped me to get my printer runnig again to print face shields aginst Corona

[@3dPrintCreator]

Great... I hope you can print many of them. Good luck and stay safe, please.

[@wernerwug]

@@3dPrintCreator until now I have printed more than 550 and we created also a model for smaler printers and also for NA 3hole buncher: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4276934 and www.thingiverse.com/thing:4282276

[@jetboard]

That's funny. I needed to unclog my Da Vinci Pro nozzle last week!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Lol, don't find it funny at all to unclog my nozzle ;-)

[@smujcat]

Hi, where can you purchase the inner "nylon" tube? I need a replacement. It is 3mm outside diameter and I guess around 2mm inner diameter. The new head I purchased is missing this part. Many thanks,

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi, that depends on where you live. I can buy it at a local 3d printing store but if you don't have one in your city then look online at Amazon, ebay or AliExpress.

[@bernardleveau7635]

very good. Is it necessary to change the complete extruder or change the nozzle? is it possible to buy separate by xyz printing?

[@3dPrintCreator]

As far as i know, you can not buy the nozzle seperately for the XYZPrinting Da Vinci Pro. Because of that, some people made E3D V6 compatibel hot ends, so it would be poossible to exchange the nozzle, or even the heatbreak, so that you can have a full metal heatbreak and a nozzle that is harder than a brass nozzle, like full metal, or even one with a ruby tip. So, as far as I know, you need to change the complete printing cartridge, containing the whole hot end.

[@johnschmidt7037]

The two thin wires attached to the extruder head, I assume are reading the temperature of the head and are very low voltage. I would think that the larger (red) wires are providing sufficient voltage to actually head the extruder head. Do you know what the voltage across these two wires, and do you think it is possible to use this voltage to heat the extruder head rather than use a gas torch? I have neurological issues that make it impossible to use a hand torch. Thanks B. I am a recent newcomer to your videos but I find them thorough enough to be confident that I can effect minor repairs such as this.

[@3dPrintCreator]

You can just heat up the nozzle with the heater cartridge that is inside the nozzle. However, I like to use a gas torche, as I can then heat it only at the nozzle, therefore not heating up the heatbreak that much.

[@ockamrazor477]

I may try to reconnect the nozzle once the hot end is free and let the machine do the heating. You have any luck?

[@eddijk]

Bedankt voor alle uitleg. Zou je misschien mij ook kunnen helpen met PETG uitleg. Krijg het niet voor elkaar om er een mooi printje uit te krijgen.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Ik ben zelf niet echt een gebruiker van PETG Zelf ben ik meer een liefhebber van NGEN, een filament dat veel gemakkelijker print dan PETG, maar verder vrijwel dezelfde eigenschappen heeft. Maar, mocht ik weer eens een rol PETG ergens op de kop tikken, dan zal ik er een video over maken.

[@CNC4XR7]

Hi Brian, Just in the nick of time, I have went through the included spool about 50 hours I think and started on a third party filament. I printed 2 small parts and 2 hrs into another and it just quite printing. the tube unscrews from the brass nozzle piece correct? how tight is it mine seems really tight. Thanks for the help. Sam

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Sam, Sorry for the late answer, must have missed this reaction. Indeed the brass nozzle and the tube are two separate parts that screw away from each other. They are really tight though. So tight that you have to warm them up before screwing them together or else you are not able to tighten them as much as they need to.

[@ginawilliams8757]

How do you get the silver screw-like thing out of the copper thing?? I've been trying and trying and I'm going nuts!!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Gina, That silver screw like thing, that's the heatbreak. This is just screwed inside the brass nozzle. Don't ever put to much force on the heatbreak, but you can just unscrew it easily if you heat up the nozzle a little bit with a flame or heatgun.

[@CNC4XR7]

Thanks For the tips, I'm currently printing my Spool holder 2nd attempt so far so good no lift I'm about 4 hrs in. One question you might be able to address in the future. I have noticed that XYZware for pro gives a estimated time of say 1.5hrs and the printer gives a estimate of twice that? also if the time is incorrect what about the filament usage? Your thoughts or experience with this? Be Safe, Sam

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Sam, The filament usage is pretty accurate but the displayed time is far from that. When I am working with Simplify3D as a slicer, I find that the displayed time get's accurate only after the first 4 layers are printed. In the XYZWare for Pro slicer however, it never gets accurate.

[@CNC4XR7]

Thanks Well shortly after I commented the spool holder lifted this time on the bottom side. Just not having any luck with it.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hmm, that's not good. What is the bed material you are printing it on? If it is the sticker that XYZPrinting supplied with the printer, then you can apply some glue stick to it to get better adhesion. I always use Kapton tape and gluestick OR BuildTak plate as the bed material because that works way better. Good luck printing the spool holder.

[@CNC4XR7]

I installed buildTak first thing upon your recommendation it has worked well on everything just not so good on the spool holder.

[@CNC4XR7]

i'm wondering if changing the infill and layer height will help?

[@StoneFistedProps]

Brian Thank you for these tutorials. I have a Question The Two Grayish silver wires that go into the top of the nozzle, what are they called. and can they be repaired? as During cleaning with a wire brush I accidentally snagged them and they ripped off?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Nedd, I am not shure, but I think they are called silicon wounded wires. If you buy a 100K thermistor, this is the type of wire that's soldered on to it.

[@StoneFistedProps]

Thank you, I will look into this further As I was able to stick them back in But i'm afraid to run my Printer Because they aren't secure.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Yeah. I don't want to scare you of, but you must be really confident that your thermistor works as it should because if it doesn't, your heater for the nozzle can overheat, in extreme situations even causing fire. If you don't trust it, make sure to get another thermistor from XYZPrinting

[@StoneFistedProps]

My thoughts exactly that's why I just Ordered a New Nozzle from XYZ for it. I like to air on the side of Caution. Thank you for Your Help and Thank you for continuing to Help the Community.

[@sonnaps5465]

Anyone know what that inner tube is really made of? Is it nylon or teflon? Any links to the correct diameter part to fit in the da Vinci?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Originally it's PTFE and it's 2mm I.d. and 4mm o.d.

[@ajdotcom12]

@@3dPrintCreator Awesome informative video however the PTFE tube got destroyed. Do you happen to have the total length of the tube?

[@blackopsandzombies]

Do you know what the piece of plastic that is supposed to keep the heat from the machine is called? Mine is stuck inside and i can’t get it out

[@3dPrintCreator]

I think you are talking about the PTFE inner liner tube (or short, PTFE tube).

[@blackopsandzombies]

Yes that’s the one thank you. My friend recently gave me this 3D printer as a gift so I’m still learning how to use it. Your videos are helping a lot to understand this printer and its limitations. I have another question, do I need to use the XYZ software to connect the printer to my wifi or am I able to use a different one? I’m using a Mac and I looked at the software and saw it is really outdated so I’m wondering if there are other options. Thanks for the help!

[@brio481]

Hi second day working on unclogging extruder got extruder out of 3D printer and took it apart and noticed there is fillament stuck in the silver metal piece that connects to the gold heating piece my question is how to dissconnect the silver piece from the heating mechanism. I saw on this video you had it disconnected from the silver piece heated it and scraped it out. Does it screw on and off? If you can help me with this I’ll really appreciate it thank you

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi, Before you do such a difficult thing, first try the easy way of unclogging. Take the cartridge, as a whole, to a gas flame. Hold the nozzle (the bronze part) in the flame while pushing a piece of filament from the top side into the hot end. When heated up enough, you will be able to push the clog through the opening OR to pull back the filament and take the clog out via the back of the thing. Only if this doesn't work, you have to get them separated. You can just do this by unscrewing the nozzle from the silver part counter clockwise. Good luck. Brian.

[@brio481]

3d Print Creator Thank you very much I really appreciate how fast you got back to me and all the help. I’ll let you know how everything goes

[@3dPrintCreator]

No thanks at all... I am only that fast when I am actually behind the computer. When I am at work it can take days before I respond to the comments.

[@OppositeDay5]

Super helpful, thanks a lot!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks

[@fbbgpp60]

Good video, thanks a lot.

[@markshelden2597]

Just aquired an old version and i noticed that your has a small piece of pfte tube in the stainless tube, mime doesnt. Wonder if this is why i get so many blockages

[@3dPrintCreator]

Possibly yes, the PTFE tube on the inside is called the Inner Liner Tube, and it should be there.

[@davidwalton6308]

My printer won't load filament anymore. I unclogged the print head using the tool that came with the printer. I can tell when I feed the filament, you can tell when it gets fully loaded when it hits resistance. That is where the problem is now. I can load it so far but it isn't going as deep as it used to. I tried pushing on it some and the filament started coming out the side of the print head. What should I do?

[@3dPrintCreator]

If filament came out, but not from the nozzle, but from the side of the print head, there is something wrong in the printhead. You have to disassemble the whole head and clean everything with heat, before you can continue. Then, when you have done this, you have to heat up the printer as if you are going to print, but without filament. When the print head is hot, turn the nozzle in hand tight, and then a little more tight, with a wrench. Now you sealed the connection between the heater element and the nozzle (this is where it's now leaking). Then load filament and check if everything works.

[@davidwalton6308]

@@3dPrintCreator I took a look and there appears to be a small piece of tubing that feeds into the print cartridge, that has split so the filament just comes out the side. Is that hard to replace?

[@davidwalton6308]

Its the piece that should feed into the part labeld T2

[@mr.somoza7153]

Do you know where I can purchase a spare heating cartridge?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Sorry, for the Da Vinci original parts, you have to go to XYZPrinting, but they don't offer it as far as I know. You have to buy the complete Hot-End. The other thing you can do is convert your printer to E3Dv6. There are a lot of conversions you can download from Thingiverse. I like this one very much: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1328848 You can print it yourself, but the plastic parts for it and assemble it yourself, or buy it pre assembled and tested.

[@CompadreRuelas]

I can’t even take out the piece from the printer. I’m seriously confused. I need to unclog my machine but I can’t even take the piece out. I’m super frustrated

[@3dPrintCreator]

Make sure you know what parts move and what not. When you know that, take some filament and experiment with the force you need to break it sideways, because you need to use that amount of force. When you know that, pull out the hot end with the force needed to break the filament that is trapped. On the older printers, like the one I had, it was possible to cut the filament but you can't do that on the current models.

[@luis5theblacklion]

I unclog my printer, but now it shows an error message 0014, can you help me solve it?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Error code 0014 is a problem with heating up the printer See if your cables are all firmly attached, start with the heater block, as you have been working there.

[@frankjuergensen]

Your "nylon" is PTFE for example: www.amazon.de/gp/product/B012T96D4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If I have to clean the nozzle, I change the PTFE on the same time. Most is the PTFE the problem for the clogging. I have no guitar. I use this nozzle cleaner www.ebay.de/itm/Reinigung-Nadel-Reiniger-0-2-0-3-0-4mm-fr-3D-Drucker-Extruder-Duse-Nozzle-RepRap-/222162268786?var=&hash=item0

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Frank, It's not plain PTFE but something that can resist A higher temperature then PTFE It's also another size then the normal PTFE tube from the extruder to the carriage. (2mm I.D versus 3mm O.D.) I do have a lot of guitars, and a lot of E strings. I keep mine :-)

[@frankjuergensen]

PTFE = Schmelzpunkt 327 °C lt. Wikipedia My link goes to 2mm ID 3mm OD !

[@uliseslay24]

Frank Jürgensen. I used PTFE and works great. It has a higher melting point than ABS but you have to take this into consideration when putting a torch to the whole assembly. By the way.. I also recommend changing the guide tube on top of the head- yet another tube type: 3mm ID 4mm OD