Under Extrusion - 3D Printer Troubleshooting - Chris's Basement

[@Fusilier0]

Great video. You get to the details quickly and clearly. You don't meander and speak clearly and provide every step by step which a lot of KZbinrs sometimes skip over. Thanks for the details and helpful info. Your video didn't help with my i3 Plus because I've already replaced the idler arm on my machine with an all metal set. I wish you did a video on installing and using OctoPrint on a Mac. I'm still looking for that Holy Grail. Cheers,

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! I wish I knew more about mac, I get a lot of people saying this same thing.

[@KyleTaylorOrionCUSD223]

Great timing. I've been battling under extrusion issues on my CR-10. I never thought to inspect the idler bearing or tension or the spring. I've been jacking the Flow rate up to 115% as a short term fix. But since it used to print better than now a worn out spring/less tension makes a lot of sense. Keep up the great work.

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Good luck on you fix, my CR10 gets build up on the hotend side of the bowden tube. I usually cut a few mm off and it starts working right again.

[@PaulsLittleRoom]

You make quite a stressful fix sound super easy. You are my go to channel.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks a lot Paul!

[@chanh55]

Thank you Chris! I've been reluctant to calibrate my esteps. Didn't realize how easy it is.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great! Glad this was helpful.

[@Tanner3D]

Glad you added in the filament consistency part at the end. I was having some under extrusion recently and thought I had a partially clogged nozzle. Finally bought a good set of calipers and found out the filament had spots as high as 1.89mm which was binding up in the capricorn tubing.

[@ChrisRiley]

I hate that so much....I have had some WAY to high prices stuff do that to me recently. When it's a $10 spool....meh.....when it's a $40 spool....RAGE! LOL!

[@MakingwithLuke]

And dang! Your well deserved subscribers are pouring in lately. It might just be me, but it seems like last time I checked you were at 3.9k, now your already at 5.1!

[@ChrisRiley]

I have been very fortunate here lately, I think people heard that I break stuff, so they are hanging out for the next incident. :)

[@UncleRons_3D_Pub]

his subscriber count has been moving nicely in the right direction, but, I think you just need to check in more often 😋

[@trolling4dollars816]

Another great video. Very nice cutting and time lapse. I will use these tips if I run into under extrusion.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks John! I am trying to up my editing game, it just takes a lot of time, but I am getting faster.

[@53Ericd]

Excellent Video Chris! This was perfect timing for me. I am having the same issue. Now I have a plan to correct it thanks to this video. Please keep producing.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great! You bet, I have more work to do on this one, but it's better for sure.

[@charliebowen4232]

Hello Chris! This helps a lot... my Anet A8 is under extruding a bit... thanks for doing this video!

[@ChrisRiley]

You bet! Thanks for watching Charlie!

[@MakingwithLuke]

Really great video, it covers a lot of the basics of extrusion and would've been super helpful to me when first getting in to 3d printing

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Luke!

[@spikekent]

Great video Chris. I put an aluminium extruder head on my CR-10s as the original just didn't have much pressure on the idler wheel, much better now.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Definitely a worth while upgrade.

[@byfunkyoid2917]

I love this video. Simply put, best advice I’ve found. Hope it fixes my issues this week.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Good luck!

[@NuarStanger]

Great video! Being a newbie in 3d printing I appreciate any advice I can come across. Thank you for sharing the info.

[@ChrisRiley]

Welcome to the 3D printing world! Hope these videos will help you a long the way.

[@penguinlife9239]

Thanks for the video. You made me one step closer for my printer being fixed

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! You bet!

[@HackMonkey]

Had the exact same issue with my old Monoprice Maker Select 2, and also on the Ender 3. Fixed the Maker Select the same way. The Ender assembly was a mess, it got a whole new aluminum extruder arm, gear, spring and idler.

[@ChrisRiley]

It was the same way on my Geeetech i3, switched to an aluminum arm as well.

[@davidolson7575]

Another fantastic video, easy to understand and very helpful!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Great feedback David as always. Thanks for watching!

[@markferrick10]

Nice job, especially the comments on thermistor calibration ( or lack thereof ) and too fast for your hot end setup. I would be interesting to see some tests to determine temperature vs speed of your hot end. Not sure how to calibrate you thermistor, unless you already have a calibrated setup to test against.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mark, yeah that's a tricky one. It can be done, but you would have to have access to the firmware.

[@markferrick10]

@@ChrisRiley How so. I have the Repetier firmware and I do compile in changes. Any tips?

[@thehappyextruder7178]

Great Video Chris, and work around ! Happy printing !!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Ron!

[@alexscarbro796]

Very insightful fault finding. Thanks.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching Alex!

[@cbeserra]

Excellent technical content and explanations. Thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Chris and thanks for watching!

[@dddmmm21]

This is great... I have the Monoprice but I dont use Octoprint (dont know how)... not sure I can do the calibration steps just using the standard menu options... Ideas?

[@ChrisRiley]

On your monoprice you should be able to adjust it from a terminal viewer like Pronterface, you will use the m92 e command. You can see what it is currently set to with m503.

[@dddmmm21]

Yes, thanks... But I have not idea what that is...

[@ChrisRiley]

@@dddmmm21 Cable up USB to your computer, www.pronterface.com/ this is the program you need.

[@rjlorimor]

A very well done video. I liked it!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Rodney! Thanks for watching!

[@JAYTEEAU]

Thanks Chris, really valuable content right there. I have 3 of those printers ( Cocoon Create Touch actually ) and I suspect they suffer the same issues. Will give it a go. Cheers, JAYTEE

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey Jaytee! Haven't seen you in a while, thanks for watching and the comment. I really want to like this printer construction is great. Just needs a few more tweaks.

[@JAYTEEAU]

Hi mate, I was unwell for a bit leading up to my gall bladder having to be removed. All good otherwise. Keep up the good work. Cheers

[@madmike8406]

Another Great Video Chris!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mike!

[@mindseyemelodies]

good, easy to understand video!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mike!

[@BV3D]

Greetings, Chris! Great video. I really liked the true-to-RepRap, "Printer, heal thyself" approach you used. I'm bummed that you were having extrusion issues with the printer at all, though. When I bought mine, it had a decent test print already on the build plate. You'd think these would have a little more QC on the parts, right? Anyway, again - Great video! 👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Bryan! I am a little disappointed to say the least. I always thought these were good machines out of the box, but mine has not been. I am thinking now I got a bad board after mine has recently caught fire. I really like the construction of it, so I am going to keep trying. Updates to come!

[@Whereswally606]

had a petg print fail last night whilst I ran it out in my garage. I guessing it got way too cold overnight but now I have to recalibrate the z axis as my inductive sensor seems to have moved. I crashed the head into the bed this morning trying to start the print again. meh, it happens.It does seem a battle here with getting all this right and reproducible. especially when you have zero time to really trouble shoot. Thanks for doing these kind of videos. they help focus on where issues and sources of error might be coming from.

[@ChrisRiley]

You bet! I agree, some printers are much more consistent than others, but temperature swing has always been an issue. My area jumps about 15c difference between season, some days it feels like starting all over.

[@Whereswally606]

@@ChrisRiley switched over petg to pla and completely recalibrated my bed. There is still too much slop on the system for my liking but I got a reasonable print from it. It is a bms holder for my friends 2wd electric bike.

[@ChrisRiley]

Keep working at it, it's an up hill battle most days, but so satisfying to watch work. :)

[@ArcanePath360]

Nice video. My new Geetech A10M extruded 77mm out of the 100mm I ran through it. So I needed to change from 340 to 441. Unfortunately the Marlin menu on the printer allowed you to change 0.01 at a time, meaning I had to sit there for 5 minutes just to get the Esteps to 375.00 I checked back to see if this was making any progress by extruding another 100mm but the firmware kept freezing while trying to dial in an amount to extrude. One more turn of the dial went from 50mm to 130mm which then messed up where my pencil line was and I gave up as it jammed in the nozzle anyway because I was doing this test with a cold hot end. Why the hell these things aren't calibrated properly at the factory I'll never know. I might just add 30% to my flow rate in my GCode.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I know, there is so much tweaking that has to be done, but you can't beat the price.

[@ArcanePath360]

@@ChrisRiley Well I pretty much wasted 3 hours where I should have been sleeping last night, chasing my tail thinking it was the extruder, but I solved the problem. It was as simple as old filament which had partially blocked the nozzle. I know this because after giving up on my Cura profiles and printing from the supplied example GCO file, the filament from 2 colour swaps ago came out in the first layer in a messy looking colour puddle, and since then it's been printing fine. Perhaps it's time to learn nozzle cleaning - Doh! Since then, awesome prints and ways of mixing colour I never thought of. You can replicate a colour you need by mixing two together in different ratios until it matches. Perfect for matching your print to something that already exists where a part needs replacing.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@ArcanePath360 Awesome man! I am glad you got it working. I have a color mixing delta, I need to get it working again.

[@ArcanePath360]

@@ChrisRiley I'm just glad I found something to finally replace my aging Anet A8 with dual extrusion. Been looking for years. Just sent back an Athorbot Brother Dual for a refund - absolute garbage that was. Geetech has produced one of those machines that nerds can fine tune and turn into something great. I've discovered so many good things about 2 extruders; for one thing, you can hot swap filament during a print after running out, without even pausing by clever use of the mixture control. This method also allows multi colour printing too, where you can keep swapping filaments on the inactive extruder during printing after the layer for that colour has finished.

[@mikeyboston3320]

@@ArcanePath360 I have the same problem with my a10m have you found any solutions yet?

[@Michallote]

Wow amazing, I've been having underextruding with a A10M and completely disassembled the hotend and found no improvement. I'm now almost sure something went wrong with E steps, I don't know how to fix it though, Octolapse is forceful?

[@ChrisRiley]

Under extrusion while using Octolapse? Your Pi could be running low on resources causing this.

[@customsrusprincalifornia2284]

How do you change the extrusion rate in the lerdge x? I change it on the last screen when printing. But how to change it permanently?

[@ChrisRiley]

I think that gets reset every print. Your only option would be to increase you E step setting to compensate.

[@rodryk5605]

Curious. Why not print the replacement part in PETG, instead of ABS?

[@ChrisRiley]

You could and it would be almost as heat resistant. I did ABS just to add a little more entertainment to the video, PETG would have saved me some work. :)

[@4funrc11]

Hey. :) Thx. That under extrusion looks cool to me, like in printing a Pirates of the Caribbean ship, maybe.

[@ChrisRiley]

Ha! It is kinda spooky, just in time for Halloween, ghost benchy.

[@bbogdanmircea]

Check that PTFE is not lifting from inside hotend due to cheap Bowden couplers ... ask me how I know

[@ChrisRiley]

Ugh....I see that all of the time. I wish I could find some better replacement options. I tired to get some Festos but they don't have 6 and 10mm.

[@patrickbodine1300]

Bingo!

[@hobbyrob313]

this was a fun and educational video! thank you! now I miss the piece that you make that new ABS Liver !? ;-) very coincidentally i am also engaged in a bowden extruder motor drive but then one with gearbox, crazier, I can choose later with a gear OR with a belt kind regards from the Netherlands! Rob.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching! So the extruder has a larger drive gear option attached with a belt? I have never seen that one before. Interesting.

[@rickb1444]

Thanks for the trouble-shooting video!

[@ChrisRiley]

You welcome! Thanks for watching Rick!

[@3dgussner958]

Like the approach to use the printer itself to fix it, even you had to print the idler parts 3 times to get your final part. Not everybody has access to a 2nd printer which would make it easier in one step.

[@ChrisRiley]

Agreed! I really like that idea, a machine being able to fix itself, even if it's incrementally. It's this type of thing that keeps me interested.

[@mauricioexequielguzmanlafu116]

great videos as always!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mauricio!

[@Robothut]

Chris if a person did not want to use Octoprint would it be possible to just make the change in the feed rate setting on the printer menu to get the extrusion calibrated right ?

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure! It would work the same as long as you have the option enabled to allow you to store it in eeprom. I have seems some printers where you could change the settings, but there was no menu option to store them.

[@KiR_3d]

Hi, Chris! Is the procedure to calibrate the extruder the same for any? I have Flash, there is Titan extruder.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, it will be the same, but the Titans are 3:1, so it will be triple the amount....roughly.

[@KiR_3d]

408 (it was in the stock firmware as well). And I've printed some models without much problems... I've heard some clicks but got no underextrusion at all. Before started to tinkering with Linear Advance (turned off already) and S-Curve.

[@KiR_3d]

If I'll measure it without melting (remove plasric, the tube, then extrude) will it be the same?

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure I understand the question?

[@KiR_3d]

I mean that I want to remove the PTFE tube and just extrude (not through the hot end).

[@Hebdomad7]

This might just be the problem I'm having. It's been very annoying because cranking the extrusion up or slowing things down clearly wasn't working. Hopefully this'll help.

[@ChrisRiley]

I hope it helps.

[@dubi01]

another great video! thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching Jon!

[@chaddanylak8706]

i took apart my extuder and it turn out my pully was rustly as hell and the hob gear was covered with crap so I taken the put it all in cola and citra acid

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice fix! Glad you got it going.

[@docmortal]

Hi Chris,Maybe you can help me when you have a chance. I have a formbot raptor upgraded with volcano hotend and using a .6 nozzle. I'm using a .70 line width using simplify 3d with .5 layer height So I calibrated my extruder and set my flow to 1.0 multiplier. When I make a single wall cube I get .80 instead of .70, I did try a flow rate of .96 but my wall is still thick at .76. The part itself is pretty close in size it's a 40mm square cube. Just wondering how to fix the walls being at .80 instead of .70 if the extrusion rate is correct. Thx Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Interesting, I have found the slicers put some things in the gcode for you that might not be exactly as you wanted. I would check the gcode first, does it have anything in there like default flow rate settings?

[@docmortal]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply. I have not checked the gcode but I might try cura and see if I get the same result. I'm also thinking of adjusting the line width to .80 and see if it adjusts to that setting. I'm just starting to learn how to adjust firmware and I can look at the gcode generated through notepad++ but not sure what to look for in that respect.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@docmortal Yes, trying Cura would be a good test. Looks for notes in the gcode like this. They might give you some more info. ; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm ; first layer extrusion width = 0.42mm

[@JoseBerruezo]

Nice Video!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Jose!

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Never get that hot enough here to consider that idea. Here have to have an enclosure because it is too cold.

[@ChrisRiley]

It has been so hot this year.....ready for some winter.

[@venomdedpol1179]

That was awesome!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks and thanks for watching!

[@peterdarlow1131]

Very helpful, thankyou.

[@ChrisRiley]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@oldfarmhand7714]

Your videos have been very helpful in working on a cr-10 that I upgraded with a probe sensor. The American company that sold me the kit does not to possess the knowledge that you do. Is there a way to P.M. you?

[@ChrisRiley]

About the only way to bet a hold of me is email. [e-mail]

[@selcukkandaz2585]

thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

You're welcome!

[@grantclarke4713]

Thanks for the info....

[@ChrisRiley]

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@elfpimp1]

Are uou sure this is an underextrusion problem and not just a problem with the printer not pushing enough plastic instead? ?

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure what you are asking, you mean incorrect E steps vs a hardware issue?

[@elfpimp1]

@@ChrisRiley me neither, I think I may have said underextrusion twice in two different ways.. Say, just out of curiosity, have you done a vid on how to tell when one needs to change out their nozzle? ???

[@ChrisRiley]

I have not, that is a hard condition to catch. When I run into it next I will get some footage.

[@wrxsubaru02]

Lol this is why you always need 2 3d printers

[@ChrisRiley]

You always need a bot to fix your bot. LOL

[@wrxsubaru02]

@@ChrisRiley lol

[@JohnOCFII]

Wow. I usually watch the ads to throw a few $$ your way, but KZbin put a 45 minute Citrix presentation as your “ad”

[@ChrisRiley]

Seriously!? That's ridiculous. I will look at what the settings do.

[@ChrisRiley]

I checked this out, doesn't look like I have a say on what add they play. Lets hope that one was a "fluke".

[@Qromer]

Great video Chris. I didn't see the link to the upgrade part, but I found it from your screenshot. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1516255 . Thanks again.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks and thanks for the link and letting me know it wasn't there. It has been added!

[@3DPIceland]

good video Chris, - twitter?, what is that? :)

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Martin, Exactly..????

[@PrintNPlay]

I would like to follow you on twitter. What's your handle?

[@UncleRons_3D_Pub]

@ChrisRiley_NotOnTwitter

[@ChrisRiley]

I like it!

[@RJMaker]

ABS FTW!! ;~}

[@ChrisRiley]

That's right! I still have love for the ABS!

[@thomasmroz]

Twitter? what's that?

[@ChrisRiley]

Exactly! No clue... ;)

[@deeareus9886]

2 :P good job

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mario!

[@sj-qn4uy]

I HAVE JUST WATCHED A PROGRAM OF HOW WE ARE POLLUTING THE OCEANS WITH PLASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!! how is this ethical to keep on producing more plastic??

[@ChrisRiley]

This is a very real concern. I have seen the videos of the huge trash islands floating in our oceans. Scary to say the least. The good news is, in the hobby 3D printing industry 90% of all the plastic we use it derived from corn, so it is bio degradable. The other types of plastics that are not, are reclaimable. I personally send all of my scrap and waste to a filament company so they can reclaim it and turn it into more filament. Less than 1% (floor sweepings) of everything I use goes in the garbage. As with anything, we all have to do our part to be responsible. Thanks for the comment.

[@sj-qn4uy]

many thanks for your reply, i did not know that 3d printing used bio degradable plastic! i think that should be made public knowledge, sorry for my ignorance

[@ChrisRiley]

No worries! It's good to talk about it.

[@DerekMatthews]

1st :P

[@ChrisRiley]

You win!

[@UncleRons_3D_Pub]

A free roll of "Air Filament" coming your way, for creating "imaginative" prints with limitless dimensions, and no weight (or physical structure)

[@ChrisRiley]

That air filament is the hardest to find....literally. :)