Undercarriage and "axle" wing for the Fokker DR1.

[@alandavis8123]

Hi Mark, I had an idea to hold your axle wing secure. You could make a hard balsa wedge to go between each of the u/c side legs ( each side) just above the axle. Then glue the end ribs too the wedged. Cheap and simple.

[@markcummings150]

I also recently learned about what flux to use for good results on piano wire. The type needed is called Baker’s flux here and it’s a watery liquid. Since it’s acidic you need to make sure it’s all washed off properly when done or it will continue to eat away at the metal. Also wear some old clothes because if you splash it on them you will end up with holes in them. You also need a heavy duty soldering iron for the larger wires, such as those used for lead lighting with the large 10mm dia tips.

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

I used fernox used in heading systems, scrubbed off afterwards and head supplied with a blow lamp. 😊

[@DadsRCHangar]

Great Masterclass Mark, you know I said before that I should use a paintbrush when I glue, now seeing you do it, I will now also do 😀

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Far too kind I'm just muddling along 😊.

[@Bob-mn1kf]

An interesting video it may have been long , but it certainly isn’t boring. Keep them coming , looking forward to you setting the incidence on all these wings. :)

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Thanks too kind. 😊

[@alfredvink]

Great solution. I like your problem solving skills 👌

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@JeffinLowerAlabama]

Mark your lower wing looks great and should be strong. Jeff in LA USA

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Took some time to work out but I'm happy how it's working out.

[@keithcatlow9599]

Depending on the effort you wish to use !! With this type of axle, I cut it 1/8" short of going all the way through the wheel, then sweat a piece of brass tube long enough to pass through the wheel and protrude 1/8" past onto the axle. This can now be drilled with ease and a split pin passed through. This is more work and does need the wheel bearings you have made to be opened up to the size of the brass tube, but looks a lot better as it gives the impression of a hollow axle.

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

It's the technique I used on my current Cirrus Moth build so I may go that route on this project too.

[@joepellissier2091]

Very nice. It’s gonna be very interesting. How you cover that whole thing. Assembly also appears to be a challenge trying to put the lower wing together, get it clamped on, and covered. I think rather than using a Collette, I would’ve used clamps similar to the ones that hold the landing on and clamp the lower wing to the lower part of the struts.

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Are you referring to the wing between the wheels?

[@joepellissier2091]

@ yes

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

@@joepellissier2091 I have a cunning plan 😂.

[@joepellissier2091]

@@MarkCroucherRC4fun I am sure you do, I was just commenting on how I would attach the wing between the gear.

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

@joepellissier2091 hope to finish today.

[@paulwoodman5131]

That's pretty cool. Check out the d8! Albatross does the same thing with the axle wing but with a single upper , seen some RC plans. Nifty... Looking at some old vintage photographs of albatross during the war...that lower Wing between the axle is not maintained as well, during combat. It's seen some stuff😐... If you know what I mean, you could do just about anything with that axle wing and be "period. Correct"😅.. That Gap on the original is huge. and I suspect your solution to mounting the two wings ....to be fair , you have 6! Wings to cover(or 8?😊).((..."triplane"...😊). is similar to or better than the original. I like your solutions, Mark...stay creative 😊.

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Thank you for your kind comments.

[@markcummings150]

I usually refer to the small wing with the axle and wheels as the ‘sub-wing’ as I’ve seen it called on some forums.

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Thanks for the information.

[@Chef-Pilot]

Hello Mark Croucher, how heavy will the bomber be overall? Greetings from Lübeck

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Not sure at the moment we will see.

[@EnglishTurbines]

If your concerned about your Piano Wire loosing its condition, you can harden and temper the bent areas. At 5mm diameter, I wouldn't be concerned though. Heat and bend areas cherry red and oil quench them. This will make the bent areas too hard and brittle, so you must temper those areas. You must polish the bent areas using fine emery paper untill bright and shiny. Then, using a small flame torch heat gently the bent area until it turns a blue colour. The wire should now be back to its normal condition. This is assuming you bought genuine Piano Wire in the first instance...Silver Solder would have been far stronger btw and you can buy low melting point stuff too. 🤔😏🇬🇧

[@MarkCroucherRC4fun]

Thanks for the advice I'll store it for a future project.