Undercling and Gaston Technique Breakdown! Ft.

[@Vennotius]

No-one climbs like Gaston! 🎶

[@Noot-Noot7305]

🎶Has strong grip like Gaston!🎶

[@CJski]

Keeps it tight from his toes to his hips like Gaston 🎶

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

🎶 For there are no forearms in town half as brawny 🎶

[@tobyncummins]

My what a guuuuuuyyyy.... 🎶

[@Gavallier]

You can ask any Adam Alex or Tomoa🎶

[@hydra66]

Blimey, this guy knows his stuff. A few moments where he seems to do things instinctively rather than explaining verbally but I loved his explanation of body positioning with underclings here. Does he have a channel?

[@GeekClimber]

Yea, Peter does have a channel: kzbin.info/door/0ftr7Z7T4em9AbTXopCGHw. He only uploads videos of himself sending climbs on it though.

[@Jsoccer1999]

Geek Climber here’s the only thing though. Moonboard problems aren’t meant to be started seated. That factors into the grade, and it’s useful to develop seated under cling strength. I’d keep sit starting

[@StankyPete]

@@Jsoccer1999 Don't know why this video popped up randomly, but I saw this comment haha. You're right in that Moonboard has this rule where you have to sit start everything. But again I have to emphasize, are we trying to get better at moonboard or just climb the specific grade, or are we trying to get better with climbing in general (or at least, understand body positioning with underclings). It's sort of like a one arm pullup. If someone absolutely cannot do a one arm pull up from a dead hang, are we going to tell them that they cannot start with the arm a little bent and eventually work their way to a dead hang one arm pull up? All I'm trying to instill in people that I work with is that it is okay to start with some assistance and work your way up. Climbing, especially when your goal is to get better and better, is all about refining your training process. Sometimes that means working around the rules that qualify a "send" as a send. When training, sending is not the most important thing.

[@climbwithme2193]

It's amazing to see you keep improving from when you started your channel. I've started climbing for over two years and you're inspiring me to keep improving and even start my own channel. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to seeing more great content!

[@derekxiaoEvanescentBliss]

Regarding te gusta: for the gaston move, you want to "sink down" a bit, and then move explosively to the finish hold. If you compare your climbing and Peter's, I think you'll see what I mean. You're trying to lock off, and that is usually a lot harder than a dynamic beta for long moves like this. (harder in the ending phase of the movement, because you have to lock off really hard to reach far) Generally, before all dynamic moves, it's good to "sink down" at least a little bit and then pull (with arms) /push (with legs) in the direction you want to go. Admittedly, it looked pretty hard for Peter too, so might partially be a matter of strength, as the sinking movement and the subsequent explosive movement does require more strength in the initial phase of the move. I don't want to over generalize, but you might want to consider how to use your momentum more in your climbing style. John kettles book on climbing technique has a chapter dedicated to all kinds of weird ways to generate momentum if books are your thing.

[@GeekClimber]

Peter actually also mentioned something very similar to what you said but I didn't include it in the video because people usually don't click on tutorial videos that are longer than 10 mins. I totally agree that I am pretty bad at dynamic moves, especially with the ones with bad foothold or bad handhold. I do okay if the foot or hand is good, but it's incredibly difficult for me to generate any momentum if the foot or hand is bad.

[@StankyPete]

The specific boulder was hard too because our gym decided to put a pipe over half of the finish hold lol

[@pajaroprofeta]

I was going to say the same but i knew someone would notice it. The real problem with your technique on that one is trying to do the move too statically. Try to work on similar but easier variations of the same move, and slowly building the confidence to be more dynamic. Also notice that is important to always find balance between the amount of locking off and the explosiveness that the movement requires.

[@StankyPete]

@@pajaroprofeta Yeah, that boulder in specific doesn't really call for "better" gaston technique. It's really more of a power and dynamic thing. We were talking about that quite a bit that day but lets see if we can get Geek Climber to do another video on generating power ;)

[@meganwong9508]

Wow, I really love this video! I know you mentioned in the other comment that people generally don't like 10+ tutorial videos, but if you even included it as an extra or unlisted video or something like that (if it's not too inconvenient, of course) I would be really interested! Thank you so much for working together with Peter to make this video. I think as someone trying to advance into more difficult climbing, it's really awesome getting an idea of the things you all mentioned. The video is also perfect because my current project involves a tricky undercling move :). Really nice analysis; thank you as always for the great videos! Cheers.

[@danielscully9356]

Really helpful for understanding Gastons and underclings. I hadn't really realized thier similarity. Especially helpful to recognize they are easier when closer to ones core and the lock-off position, unlike most typical holds. Very interesting and I will definitely incorporate this into my climbing. Thank you! I had enjoyed some of your videos for a while, but this got you a new subscriber. Its legitimately helpful.

[@artyfize]

I like how you went back the day after and you used your right leg nicely, a nice little swivel

[@bambinelas]

This is an extremely valuable movie! Thank you so much. Can't wait to try it tomorrow

[@fredericp64]

Thanks for vid! Would be nice if you explained what a Gaston move was though.

[@GeekClimber]

Great point. I shouldn’t have assumed everyone knows what gaston means. Thanks a lot for the feedback and I will try my best not to make the same mistake again!

[@16m49x3]

@@GeekClimber Don't worry, every single climbing video on youtube assumes everyone knows what a gaston is.

[@dryfiretherig]

Peter corrected your Nimbus sit start @1:47 with some stand start beta, but shouldn’t all moonboard problems begin seated?

[@StankyPete]

Jake Norris mmm...people have different rules for moonboard I guess, some say you can’t match or use heel hooks. Arbitrary rules are a small reason why I don’t like using the moonboard very much. But if you search on the moonboard website for their rules, no where says you have to sit start everything.

[@StankyPete]

Jake Norris here’s a copy paste from their website. 1. All problems start two handed. If there is only one start hold you must start with matched hands. 2. All problems start with both hands on the designated start hold or holds and finish on the designated finish hold or holds. 3. The rules for which footholds are allowed are indicated in the problem details in the MoonBoard App. There are 4 possible options. 1) Feet follow hands. 2) Feet follow hands + Screw-on footholds. 3) Screw-ons only 4) Footless (kick-board footholds are allowed for the start. 4. All kickboard footholds are allowed. 5. All kick-board footholds are place slopey side facing up. 6. All start holds must be on row 6 or lower. 7. All problems finish on the top row of the MoonBoard either matched if there is only one finish hold or on separate holds if there are two finish holds. You must hold the finishing hold or holds in control for 2 seconds. 8. You are permitted to use any part of the numbered hold. 9. Matching and heel hooking is permitted. 10. The grading system is either Font or V grades. You can change this in the App settings.

[@pajaroprofeta]

Sit start doesn't mean that you need to actually sit on the mat, that's on you. The difference between sit and stand start is usually the height of the initial holds and nothing else.

[@michaellauer1661]

I agree that the Moonboard rules does not mandate to sit start everything. However, I believe sit start is the correct style and grading take that into account. In particular, if you look at Nimbus, the V4 move IS the sit start to hold I10. Rest of the climb is on some of the best holds of the MB without being to "reachy"

[@flip_lange]

It should be a sit start ;)

[@michaellauer1661]

Thanks for the video. Entertaining as always and Peter is a fantastical teacher. Very clear ans poised. Moonboarding can be so much fun, keep at it!

[@tacticalclimber6538]

Nice Guest feature, he was very informative! Also, strengthening your pecs, biceps, and shoulders will also help for these types of moves! The faster you can get into the closer gaston/undercling position, the easier it will be! This may include the ability to step up high as soon as you can on underclings and using counter position force on your toes to get closer to your gaston hold. The closer your forearms to your biceps, the easier the gaston will be. At least in my experience. Good luck!

[@jonkrause6714]

Epic & awesome vid! Totally functional use. Great demo on moonboard and outdoor. Congrats on your progress. As always, inspire me to try again. 🙏👍

[@cali-athletexvii1279]

Where's ur front lever progression at

[@michelkluger]

Another very good video in this channel

[@vengal6251]

Would be cool to see you Training on a 2019 Moonboard

[@GeekClimber]

I don’t think any gyms near my place have the MoonBoard 2019. I really want to give it a try!

[@moogod1185]

Love your videos, they are really helpful

[@Thebirdemoji]

Wow geek climber I can see a dramatic improvement in your finger size and strength. I've also got a hang board and I'm just waiting to see my improvement.

[@georgepilkington9350]

The issue you had with the 2nd Gaston problem, moon climbing was that your hips were too left and your right leg was too straight. It means that you're kind of fighting against yourself. I always go with lead with your hips and the body will follow. When your friend tried it he moved with his hips and made the move easy, this is of course easier when someone is stronger too. I say that, the little drop knee was beautiful, drop knees also help get your hips closer and bend the leg

[@BlocBusters]

very helpfull! Do you have the opportunity to climb on a Tension or Kilter board?

[@dat_bois1966]

What a cool wall

[@radimm5936]

nice, like the specificity of the topic, might be actually big part of why am I stuck with my climbing grades, thanks xD

[@GeekClimber]

I've been conditioned so long to always keep my arms straight and always stay low. In hindsight, it seems obvious but it took me a while to really accept that it's the total opposite when doing underclings and gastons.

[@radimm5936]

@@GeekClimber oh yes, that makes a lot of sense, been taught the exact same thing.. I think it's definitely more beneficial to climb with straight arms when you lead climb and you need endurance. Also from health perspective, as the prevention of overuse and tendinopathies perhaps. But for strong bouldery moves, not so much...

[@ImStuckInStockton]

Hi GeekClimber what angle is the moonboard at? Love the videos

[@MrChick1984]

moonboard has 40 degree angle

[@ComputerManDanMiller]

Technique aside if you want gastons to feel better start doing heavy Rows with weights. Once you've built up some more rear delt muscle they'll be much easier.

[@justerescanilla8935]

Learn how to round off back handspring

[@joseivanhernandez7400]

Man You should get the full planche

[@noquedanmasnombress]

Those were only V4? Damn they looked like V6 at least

[@GeekClimber]

Totally agree with you haha. I always feel the moonboard grades are very sandbagged.

[@jramoni7]

what grade is V4?

[@begga9682]

6B

[@kingreuben9516]

Secret vid 🤫

[@thomashigginbottom3752]

hit the bell lol

[@davemathew]

Came for the pullups..stayed 4 the climbing...

[@adonygrapes]

Do we all still remember PICK UP MY WIFE

[@sincitychembuster]

Crazy how you are touching hand / foot holds then adjusting your mask. Seems pretty gross.

[@StankyPete]

It's a bad habit for sure, but it's definitely not the craziest thing. It's a hell of a lot better than touching hand/foot holds and then touching your bare face (which was gross before pandemic). At least the masks are layered and not terribly permeable. Let's be honest, out of all the gross and disgusting things climbers do, I wouldn't qualify this as "crazy".

[@Senki207]

People climbing in masks is so weird... You don't have to wear a mask in the actual gym where I live, but you do in the reception area. Which is weird, but hey...

[@alexgalays910]

yes, the later is even weirder and they only do it to keep a maximum amount of customers. In France, they were doing that before changing their minds 1week before it was too late and gyms closed again anyway.

[@jefton5759]

Don't wear masks while climbing guys.. come on

[@StankyPete]

It's gym policy at this location.

[@peeted7105]

There was some helpful stuff here. However, it seemed his tip for the first MB problem was just to skip the sir start. But that's not really very helpful given that MB problems are all supposed to be sit starts.

[@StankyPete]

Lets chalk that one up to a discrepancy on the moonboard website www.moonboard.com/moonboard-rules On one hand, the written rules don't mention having to sit start everything. On the other hand, the video to the right of the written rules state that you need to sit start everything. But with that said, I can give you a handful of moonboard problems that are created without having a sit start in mind. Ultimately, it depends on what you're trying to do. Is geekclimber specifically trying to get better at just moonboard climbing? If so, then yeah, follow all the rules to their absolute specificity. But if he's trying to get stronger for climbing in general, then yeah "cheating" the start just a bit will help give him the idea of the optimal body positioning for an undercling. This is a poor example but if you're trying to nail your one arm pull ups but can't pull from a dead hang, cheat a little bit and hop into it and pull the rest of the way. Do that over and over and you'll eventually develop the strength to do it from a dead hang.