Making New Ball Bearing Blade Guides For My Old Bandsaw

And they're made out of purpleheart
Tools and Things in this video:
115pcs Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/2J09WdA
Kreg Bandsaw Fence: amzn.to/371SpcO
Ball Bearings: amzn.to/2KFBTYz
Flat Tooth Table Saw Blade: amzn.to/3pZVDX6
Bosch 12v Drill/Impact: amzn.to/3q0Tydq

[@aksela6912]

Matthias Wandel has made a few videos on band saw blade guide design. This one discussing the orientation of the back ball bearing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJDFhnaKeLOIo9E This one comparing four different designs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoK9imOYe6mcrZo

[@UnderDunnOfficial]

That's exactly the info I was looking for. I should've known the wood elf would have a video or five about this.

[@broken_font1881]

@@UnderDunnOfficial bruh but it's Matthias Wandel were talking about here. The man knows about the topic as much as you and me 😂 Regardless Matthias makes some great machines

[@fer662]

He uses wood blocks on the sides instead of bearings. I designed and printed blade guide for my saw that used bearings, and later ended up switching to hardwood side blocks. I now agree with him they are better.

[@yvesladouceur9203]

That des it... I Quick before i Saw you loosing fingers....

[@igorbaldo]

@@broken_font1881 Matthias is an engineer.

[@illiteratebeef]

Robert: goes and gets a full imperial drill bit set Me, who often has bad ideas: why not just wiggle the 10mm around until it bores it out enough to fit?

[@AM-os4ty]

Honestly that was my first thought. 🙂

[@AlexSwavely]

or, wrap sandpaper around the slightly smaller 3/8" bit

[@rescdsk]

Yeah it looked like about 1.2 imperial wallers to me

[@ferrumignis]

Because wiggling the drill around gives you two back to back cone shapes rather than a cylinder.

[@LeglessWonder]

Yep. I was like “aight just wallow it out a bit”

[@mauserkk98]

I'm just thrilled you've still got all your fingers .

[@browndog9402]

I know right, i am so impressed he has all his fingers

[@Ryan-ke5km]

Sometimes you just got to roll the dice. 😜

[@CsongorHalmai]

Just compare his left pointer finger between 6:57 and 6:58. Suddenly, it gets a sticker somehow. I wonder what Robert was hiding from us. HAHA

[@paulwalsh1710]

My heart is my mouth watching this lad.Its only a matter of time.

[@jerryhuber3653]

Hopefully he discovers hold down clamps before it’s too late

[@mshine5]

I see a continuing series happening with "Power Tool Safety with Robert"

[@woodworkerroyer8497]

Well, only if he is dumber than he seems. I have had a few of those "enlightening" moments myself, and I can tell you that almost losing a piece of your body to a machine is one of the things that makes most people want to NOT do that same thing again! Also, Robert, if you see this comment, look at Fastcap's Million Dollar Hand (something like that). It lets you hold small parts like those, but keeps you hand far away from the blade.

[@kkrolf2782]

MAY BE A VERY FEW NUMBER OF EPISODES AT. THE. RATE. HE’S. GOING!!!

[@polleyjw]

Coming soon: Official Robert Dunn™️ branded Power Tool Safety Equipment.

[@InstrucTube]

@Santa Clause Order now and receive Genuine Blood Splatter as a bonus item. A $30 value, absolutely free!

[@EthanSeville]

Everytime i see him drill something and he's holding it i wait for that to happen cause ive learned for the same experience lol

[@Andy-sj2hl]

I can’t see why a man with your natural instinct for tool safety would need that blade guard anyway.

[@greavous93]

if you need to tap threads into a softer wood, try drilling and tapping as normal but then saturate the newly cut threads with super glue. Once the glue is cured run the tap through the threads again and Robert is your fathers brother.

[@darkwood777]

There are actually several ways to do it, but usually you screw metal inserts into the wood which are pre-tapped. High speed drilling of the wood with a metal tap is not tapping wood. Yeesh.

[@AgentTasmania]

Robert is him

[@scholztec]

@@AgentTasmania *woosh* 😛

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Saw this pop up. I’m ready for dry humor and sharp wit. Delightful. Even had a great mechanical problem solving project.

[@questioner1596]

I'm glad to see you're not afraid of "boring" content. Your story telling is full of "holes," but it has (purple) heart.

[@laserspaceninja]

Came for the cars, stayed for the wood. Thanks for the good content!

[@treymoore6901]

That’s what she said?

[@LeglessWonder]

Sound like my ex

[@laserspaceninja]

@@treymoore6901😁 😉

[@kimberlyjacobsen4148]

Men 😬

[@THESLlCK]

@@kimberlyjacobsen4148 alone

[@frankfreeman1444]

Sir: Two suggestions. 1. Buy a fairly cheap set of center-cutting end mills for your slotting and carving operations if you are going to use a drill press to accomplish them. 2. If you MUST put screw threads directly into wood, use Helicoils or similar thread repair inserts. They will last much longer and be stronger as well. By the way, 2 flute cutters, like drill bits, cut triangular holes. 4 flutes cut rectangular holes, etc. The number of flutes in the cutter, plus one, is the number of "corners" in the resulting hole. A framed with 6 or 8 flutes cuts a founder hole with smoother walls and more accurate and consistent diameter. I know you didn't ask, but I am an old fart, I envy your having that workshop and I just love to poke the bear. 🙏

[@AgentJayZ]

3:25: Based on the splatters on the wall behind the drill press, it looks like you've learned a few hard lessons... 10:09: Yup. No big deal... Your videos are instructive, fun, and inspirational.

[@R41N80WSCR4TCH]

No, this used to be a paint shed for an automotive shop. Granted your point still stands

[@madziar160]

@@R41N80WSCR4TCH No, this used to be the set for Dexter.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@madziar160: Maybe Rob was the inspiration.

[@S7tronic]

I didn't expect you to have enough fingers left at the end of the video to operate the damn bandsaw 😂

[@TheBudliner]

keep the blade just off the bearings, its ok if they touch when your cutting but not when its jus running. great job I need this for my vintage Delta 785

[@cdigames]

Welp, you are already on your way to making your own bandsaw from wood!

[@martykorn9266]

I did and it was the most educational and enjoyable build I’ve ever done.

[@macgynan]

Thanks for the reminder on how awful the Imperial measurement system is. Shame there is no standard of measurement that the rest of the world uses that makes more sense. Oh well, I can dream.

[@robbin763]

If this is what Robert can do with wood working tools , imagine what he could do with a lathe and a mill. Truly a talented person. Keep up the great work.

[@peternachname8362]

If he wanted to buy these tools i would donate him some money.

[@rpavlik1]

He has a wood-turning lathe he has badly abused which makes a very brief cameo in this video (used with a metal cutting portable band saw to cut some tubing). I agree, he could probably make some lovely things with a proper lathe and mill

[@pacmaniacc9682]

@@peternachname8362 He has a patreon

[@EmyrDerfel]

He could make some PARENTAL ADVISORY "Power Tool Safety with Robert" videos.

[@kkrolf2782]

God in heaven be praised!! R.D.’s Guardian Angel must totally collapse of exhaustion by the time this dude hits the sack at night!!! Lord knows she (he, it?) puts forth effort above and beyond!!! Phew!!!

[@deerfish3000]

Lenny: "Hey Bob, can you grab me a drill bit?" Bob: "Sure thing Len. What size?" Lenny: "X" Bob: 🤔

[@BorgDrone01]

As a German my head hurts from the drill situation

[@pandasdreamlygon]

was hat das mit deutsch sein zu tun

[@7_7_5]

@@pandasdreamlygon im metrischen system hat man mm und z.b. 1-10mm oder kleinere größen wie 4,2mm und nicht 0.177 zoll oder 5/64 zoll oder generell größen wo in zoll mit verschiedensten einteilungen zu tun hat

[@HerbaceousM8]

As a Canadian my head hurts from the drill situation

[@7_7_5]

​@@HerbaceousM8 my head hurts too

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Do you have fractions of millimeter bits? I know we have 4.5 and more commonly 5.5 mm bits and wrenches in the US. No idea how you’d manage finite drill sizes smaller than half a mm.

[@SueBobChicVid]

I am not a woodworker. That is some impressive "machining" you did on that wood. It's pretty impressive wood too.

[@billybobjoe198]

You didn't need to say that you're not a wood worker, we could tell when you said that his work was "impressive".

[@Wasper216]

It’s kinda funny, that you have a hard time finding a metric drill bit in the US, while me here in Germanyhad a real hard time to find an imperial drill bit and tap set 😂 Amazon is not a good help either because of all the Chinesium crap there that can’t even cut into mild steel. So in the end I had to buy a used, good quality Made in the US tap and die set off eBay USA 😂

[@Pauken11]

Nice job! One reason for the thrust bearing to be 90 degrees to the blade is more surface area contacting the back of the blade, rather than a single point with a parallel bearing. I’d fix the upper blade guard sooner rather than later. Keeping your hands away from the exposed part of the blade isn’t enough. If and when the blade breaks, the loose blade can nastily cut you. I’d make this my very next project.

[@raimundoferreira7626]

And that's the problem , the thrust bearing is the one that does most of the work to keep the blade in place , more contact area will only increase the friction between the blade and the bearing , therefore creating / generation more HEAT when the saw in at work , thats the last thing you want to do That heat will damage the blade and it loose it's sharp edge quicker than you expected

[@mtyquinn6]

I agree with you @jim Gott. to spread the load of the contact of the back of the blade helps prevent it from buckling and binding on the side guide rollers (or blocks).

[@MikeGusFifteen]

bearings are faced sideways on guides because facing them towards the blade leads to a terrible noise and will also rub a groove into the bearing over time

[@camillosteuss]

That is why you are supposed to have earplugs to avoid hearing unwanted noise, tho i despise the thought as hearing shit is what gives you an idea of something not working properly, and secondly, the bearing is a disposable tool in this case, just like a tire on a car, which is supposed to be changed when worn out, and with it backing the blade up, despite it making noise and being worn, it prevents the blade from snapping when you shove a chunk of something that would force the blade back and put too much tension on it...

[@akbychoice]

If the bearing is spinning and the saw is adjusted properly, very little grooving. Those standard side mounted bearings wear terribly as the blade is being rubbed sideways wearing out both blade a bearing side face.

[@RonLeedy]

I inherited an imperial drill set from my grandfather. Haven’t used half of them but it’s amazing when I’ve needed that one size it’s there.

[@phantomcorsair8476]

10:09 Funniest sound ever!!! I have made that same sound myself while working on machinery many times too. Never gets old😂

[@Bloodray19]

imagine accidentally knocking down the drillbit set from the table and have them fall out of their holders and get all messed up

[@eshock9208]

All the bits should have what they are printed/engraved into the bit

[@Bloodray19]

@@eshock9208 still. Finding where each one goes...

[@kpkelsey]

I actually laughed out loud when you said “unrelated”.....

[@captbuscemi]

Excellent design and execution despite the quaint and entirely self-imposed handicap of the imperial system. Here in the rest of the world it’s sometimes a struggle to work out what is slightly bigger than 10mm 🤔. Hmmm, that’s right, it’s 11mm!

[@Witty..UserName]

The real fun begins when you work with customers that give you drawings in one or the other, machinists that talk "thou" and inspectors that generally talk metric. I have 25.4 tattooed on my hand.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@Witty..UserName: I'm guessing, that arm get a lot of exercise. 🤣🤣🤣

[@Gazzaalmighty]

For the nut coming loose on the pillar drill, you could double nut the thread which will stop it coming loose. Great vids and please look after your fingers!!!

[@rivernet62]

In my experience, the reason for the bearing being 90 degrees in the wrong direction is so that once sawdust slows it down it will get a groove worn in it which will trap the blade and guarantee that it (the blade) *always* points in any direction but the one you want.

[@Crewsy]

Using a bandsaw to make parts for a different bandsaw isn’t so odd. Using your tablesaw after reassembling it to make parts for the new tablesaw you’re making out of it is. 😉 I love that tablesaw.

[@yagovips]

a to z to measure diameter... god bless america, who in the hell would want the metric system with all the complexity of it

[@Crewsy]

Sheldon Cooper is wondering if that was sarcasm. 🤣😂

[@CsongorHalmai]

The answer for the question related to the orientation of the ball bearing is simple. If the spinning plane of the ball bearing would be parallel to the plane of the blade then the blade would run on the same perimeter every time and would cut a trench into the surface of the ball bearing very quickly. By contrast, if it is perpendicular then the blade continuously turns the ball bearing and it always scratches a new part of the surface of the ball bearing. Therefore it wears out more slowly. This is what I think the correct answer is. :)

[@twocvbloke]

At this rate you'll be building the interior of the bus from scratch in no time... :P No pressure... :P

[@camillosteuss]

As well as a new mahagony crankshaft and cherry valves coupled with some nice oak gears for the differentials... Maybe even some nice spruce axles and hickory exhaust... ;)

[@absalomdraconis]

@@camillosteuss : Haha _look up ironwood engine repair work._

[@marcberm]

Needs a purpleheart throat plate!!!

[@kezzmexx2476]

It will cut a grove in the bearing after time. When sideways it wears evenly. Normal where im from is to moumt tje bearing on am angle and have a chamfer on it to be parallel to the blade

[@1D10CRACY]

My band saw is set up just like this where the back of the blade rides the bearing. My bearings do no not have grooves in them yet. Always figured some day they would, but 10 years later, they still look good.

[@ssskids123]

Very cool project! Fwiw, clamping a board across my drill press table (and later building at t-slot base with a fence) transformed my drill press for me. I now had a way to support what I was drilling and haven’t had any more cases where the item I was drilling got bound to the bit. Plus it is now very easy to clamp items to a stable surface (the fence) and keep my hands well away.

[@codnewbgamer]

Then you're going to get a 10mm socket because every single bolt on a Japanese car is 10mm. Every single bolt on a Japanese motorcycle is 10mm. 10mm; 10mm; ｔｅｎ ｍｉｌｌｉｍｅｔｅｒ

[@petergamache5368]

Sorry to hear about your misadventures with knockdown nuts (aka dowel nuts). That's a frustrating way to spend the day! After more than a few wasted days of my own, I've finally given in and started buying specialty hardware from McMaster Carr. It's not as cheap as Amazon/eBay but last time I was making knockdown furniture, I bought a few different sizes of dowel nuts. The few I checked were within -.002 / +.000 tolerance. At least to me, that's totally worth a few extra cents apiece!

[@earthwormjim]

I do not think there is any direct functional advantage to having the rear bearing mounted perpendicular. The back bearing is only supposed to protect the blade teeth from making contact with the side bearings, so it should almost never be engaged. I think the main reason why you see perpendicular rear bearings is for ease of construction. It's much easier to drill a hole, offset from the center axis, and mount a bearing to this hole. To mount a bearing in line with the blade, in the rear, would require a lot of relief in the mounting mechanism, which might compromise the stiffness of the bearing guide. Or creation of an arm like you made, which complicates the design.

[@EPgeek]

The rear bearing supports the force of pushing the material through the blade, so it does engage the blade when the saw is in use. Regarding perpendicular bearings, I agree - it's less expensive to machine since only a 3 axis mill and one fixture setup is required.

[@earthwormjim]

@@EPgeek Tension on the blade supports most of the pushing force. If you are always heavily engaging the rear bearing, it is either too close, you are feeding material too fast, or your blade is too small.

[@aaronroberts3848]

Wow. Just wow. People like this make me understand why they put warning ⚠️ labels on stuff . It's funny watching people who have no clue how to do anything

[@hydranmenace]

My wife says zip tying your nuts will probably keep them from getting off. I wouldn't personally recommend or try it though.

[@MultiTman1000]

You might be awarded a "purple heart" soon if you don't start using some clamps instead of your fingers! But great job on the project anyway and it was cringe fun to watch!

[@martykorn9266]

2 reasons. 1. Using the side of the outer race is quieter than the OD in this application. 2. When pushing a narrow blade against the outside of a round bearing you end up with the absolute minimum contact patch as well as a tendency to encourage the blade to lean over.

[@floormaestro9581]

7:25 Did he just use a bandsaw to cut a piece of metal spinning on a lathe?? I mean at least cut from the opposite side so the lathe’s spinning away from you and the saw blade. Better yet kids just don’t do it.

[@thomashverring9484]

Excellent video! You're hilarious! And soon to be fingerless, but that's the name of the game! (Please don't cut off your fingers!)

[@pnwRC.]

AWESOME project! Purple Heart, that's some EXPENSIVE lumber right there! I know that stuff's tough, but I would not have thought it would be strong enough to serve in the capacity that you fabricated it to do. Great work!

[@Fd0ols]

The bearing is side on to spread the load of the blade .if the bearing is end on the load is placed on a tiny surface .you will wear a groove very quickly .

[@letsgetsteve]

The bearing is mounted sideways because its prevents grooving in the race of the bearing. It has next to no impact on bearing life because the load is so minimal.

[@borjesvensson8661]

A sideways bearing or spinning disk means the entire surface is in contact with the spine of the sawblade so it does not develop a grove unless the bearing seizes up.

[@treymoore6901]

Nice build, Robert! I wanted to caution you on how you held the piece at 10:15. The direction of force of your appendages should never be towards the blade, within maybe 8 inches or so. The workpiece can always unexpectedly kick out, and reaction times are far too slow. Always factor in the slim possibility because it just takes once. I speak from experience, but thankfully my accident didn’t cut through bone and is mostly healed.

[@r-baticle]

2:54 to 6:29 : that's why metric is superior to imperial, checkmate americans

[@jacobbrown1690]

Don’t put your fingers near the blade. Use push sticks

[@mazchen]

5:30 so glad that I'm living in Europe and don't have to understand what you're trying to explain!

[@joewilliams5057]

I'm amazed that you can tap a thread directly into wood!

[@nynexman4464]

I wouldn't have thought so either but Matthias Wandel does it all the time

[@patrickkrenz515]

Before using helicoils on a cylinder head I actually practiced installing them in a 2x4 and it worked great.

[@radiohirsch]

Guess it really needs to be hard wood to have a chance of holding any force. Also UNC probably works better than metric or UNF due to the coarser thread pitch

[@akbychoice]

Purple Heart wood is extremely hard and hard on the cutting tools as well.

[@alandesgrange9703]

Hitting it with thin super glue, will also harden the threads up.

[@daw00t]

The bearing is mounted sideways to make the wear from the metal saw blade wear *evenly* on the full side face of the bearing -- the bearing spins freely and the angle of attack the saw blade is rubbing constantly changes resulting in even wear. If you put the bearing straight on (using it like a wheel) the saw blade will wear a groove in the bearing, bind, cause friction, heat the saw blade, weaken it, and cause it to snap.

[@jackoneil4164]

Ah yes. Ofcourse. The letter X drill bit. Totally makes sense...

[@oldmarine312]

How on earth do you have all your fingers?

[@David-hm9ic]

That's some fairly awesome work! I have the same saw and was thinking of adding a dust port on the lower blade cover like you did. Just wondering, did it made a lot of difference in the amount of dust that didn't escape?

[@ZGryphon]

Ah, that drill index brings back fond memories. My undergraduate work study gig was as a tool crib attendant in my university's mechanical engineering tech program's machine tool laboratory. Over those four years, I spent a lot of quality time handing out, taking back, and replacing the No. 7 drills out of sets exactly like that one. (Sharp-eyed viewers can probably deduce something about the projects they did in those classes by the fact that the No. 7 wore out or got broken long before anything else in the set!) The punch line: I was a liberal arts student! Mostly. I did take some MET courses, so I knew what I was doing in the tool crib, but my degree is in history. :)

[@alex4alexn]

why the No. 7s?

[@ZGryphon]

​@@alex4alexn 'Cause it's the drill you need to make the pilot hole for a ¼"-20 threaded hole (that is, a hole with a quarter-inch major diameter and 20 threads per inch), and the student project pieces, for whatever reason, had a _lot_ of ¼"-20 threaded holes. For the more advanced of the two courses, where the students would be building something they designed themselves instead of following provided plans, we used to encourage them to use fine thread (28 TPI, in the case of a quarter-inch hole) instead, just to spread the wear and tear out a little, since you use a different-size drill to make the pilot for one of those. :)

[@dennysch6941]

Fyi the thrust bearing should not turn until you put pressure on the blade and start cutting

[@MadMadCommando]

As a Canadian machinist who needs to deal with metric and imperial on a daily basis: My forehead hurts from both the headache caused by the imperial system, and from all the face palming I have to do in order to get my head around the stupid systems. Did you know that numbered drills go down in size as the number increases, but numbered taps go up in size? Genius! Did you know that a 5mm drill is bigger than a 4mm drill? Of course you do! You already knew!

[@zapa1pnt]

I live in the US (Missouri), born and raised. I have Always had a problem, with the imperial system but I didn't know what it was, until I met the metric system.(late in life). It's so F'n Easy! No more dealing with EIGHT different scales, when making or repairing. EIGHT, count them: Inch - 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, 1/128. Metric is all base 10. Below 1mm, it's decimal (base 10). EASY! When I was in elementary school, approx. 1963, ( I'm 70 ), they began trying to teach the metric system. I say trying, because they did Not succeed. They did not succeed, because they tried to teach it using comparisons. Stupid, Stupid, Stupid! If you want to teach someone (even a child), give them a metric rule an say "Use it." EASY! As a child, I found the imperial system confusing, because the first thing they teach is fractions (which is difficult enough), then they come along and throw decimals at you, a Completely different system and try to tell you they work together. UH, NO! Well, enough of that. All Hail the Metric system! 😁😁🤗👏👏👏🖖

[@Witty..UserName]

Fun Fact of the day - Do not say zero point three nine five. say 395 thousandths or thou Putting a zero before the decimal indicates it is a metric designation. If you are ever looking at machinists drawings or call outs and can't figure out if it is metric or imperial (maybe the title block is on another page) - .5 would be imperial half an inch and 0.5 would be metric for half a millimeter

[@zapa1pnt]

Very interesting point. That is good information to have. Thank you. 😁

[@paulheitkemper1559]

it's oriented to the side because the pin in the center of it is an eccentric, allowing a bit of left-right adjustment. Also, being oriented side-to-side allows for a more compact guide assembly with fewer moment arm forces. which I fear you will come to experience in time due to those tiny wood pieces.

[@phrozenwun]

0:57 "Unrelated"... do you always have an inner monologue going that is prompting "what is the internet going to think about X?" Hilarious! :-)

[@jonnycando]

A body comes off much more honest and relatable if they go with whatever.....of course you make your own reality with careful editing......

[@finnmcool2]

Power tool safety tip from Red Green "Always count your fingers before and after every cut. So you know if you should be sifting through the sawdust."

[@zapa1pnt]

We're rootin' for ya, we're all in this together.

[@aaronjoseph7573]

18:57 yeah you'll think "whoops" when you catch your arm or shirt on that giant length of blade... Please make this one a priority. We care about you... lol

[@mikegrotte3953]

Keep your upper guide as close to your stock as possible(1/8") for stability and safety

[@mmgross144]

Now that is impressive! I think that I would probably soak the tp threads with some thin CA glue to harden that purple heart into a prurple heart of stone, Sorry, I couldn't resist.

[@zapa1pnt]

I have done that. It works well. PS: Rock on, dude.

[@WoodworkJourney]

Awesome upgrade! Plus the ‘I hate everything’ comments killed me 😂😂😂

[@heystarfish100]

Gonna put Snodgoose on the food assistance program once these start rolling. Nice job Robert! Well except for all the goof ups. 👍🤣🤣🤣👍

[@Basti5792]

Metric: 10mm; 7mm; 3.5mm Imperial: 5/8th of an inch; 7; Q

[@TheOtherBill]

Except then he'd need a metric drill set with a 10.0838 bit to replace the size X bit, since he was fitting a (nominal) 10mm part to it.

[@Locane256]

That was great! I love seeing upgrade projects, this was delightful to watch.

[@adventuresinnorfolk4756]

Love this project, definitely want to improve my bandsaw guides like this.

[@ProjectsandThings]

I’ve been fiddling with alignment and bearigns on my old Bandsaw as well, I think you have me given me some good ideas. Thanks dude!

[@DoRC]

The bearing is at right angles to the blade because that way there is a much larger contact area between the bearing and the blade.with the bearing behind the blade you would only have a very tiny point of contact which would probably lead to undesirable handling characteristics and rapid wear of the bearing.

[@MRrwmac]

Robert, I dont think there are very many woodworkers who have made their own blocks w/bearings from scratch. Definetly none that have done as nice a job (minus the common mishaps we all have…haha). Congratulations!

[@zapa1pnt]

"minus the common mishaps we all have…haha" Sure, if you keep your head in a sunless place.

[@Mireaze]

Why would anyone choose to use imperial? It would be easier to just make up your own measurement system.

[@spugintrntl]

How do you think the metric system happened?

[@JThyroid]

I was just reading up on Purpleheart yesterday, and overheating it causes it to exude a resin that sticks to your tools. That can then cause your tools to dull even more. Purpleheart needs nice and sharp tools that are touched up often because Purpleheart is hard on tools before it exudes resin.

[@Witty..UserName]

Metal guy getting into woodworking - thanks for that. Would have taken a few years to notice that on my own I bet.

[@christianburke3106]

Many exotic hardwoods are like that. I removed a 1000 sq. ft. bulletwood deck from by backyard and have been working with that stuff all year. Luckily it's old and dry, but so dense and hard, you can't even get a nail into it without drilling a hole first. Screws don't work well either, because the screw threads don't cut the wood. If the pilot hole is too small the screw will split the wood or break off. If the pilot hole is big enough for the screw to fit without binding, the threads won't catch very well. I have to use dowels or threaded inserts for any joints that requires strength. That wood destroys drill bits and saw blades - anything less than carbide doesn't stand a chance. I can only plane a half dozen boards before my HSS planer blades need changing. :D

[@CarlosGlatzos976]

Damn that miter saw dust shroud is pretty already. Could not imagine table saw blade guides made from wood would work, but they do. And they are pretty, too. Good ideas and craftsmanship, Robert! Cheers!

[@Eric-pg4tn]

Dude, a few clamps will go a long way in the "safety department"

[@zapa1pnt]

He' doesn't have one of those.

[@GarryMcGovern]

Oh my word, those imperial sizes drive me nuts!! Now I'm not going to start spouting on the virtues of the metric system, claiming it's better (here in the UK, I still drive in mph, consume fuel by the gallon and drink beer by the pint!), but there are just SOME THINGS that work better in metric...... and that's when it comes to my tools. It's a 13mm socket or an 8mm drill bit, nice and simple - this 7/16th or 3/8th nonsense wrecks my head (and this is coming from someone who owns a 54 Ford Popular, a 69 Morris Minor Pickup and a 71 Triumph Bonneville, so DO still have to use my Imperial measurement tools on a regular basis!).

[@codysmith1915]

you are my new favorite woodworking/shop channel. Keep it up my dude

[@sirsteele]

Robert, I love your videos, and my only complaint is that there isn't a new one every day! Always entertaining... usually informative... never boring! Happy Holidays, my friend!

[@scottiniowa1]

Just bought a $10 craftsman band saw that needs these - thanks for the video!

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

So, you decide to adopt metric as the 'preferred system' back in '75, and you still have problems buying metric drills. Cannot help feeling that wood is not the best material for this- why not burst through the wood ceiling and embrace metal... a whole new world opens up. Loose nut on the drill- just needs a lock-nut. While threading wood works, it is not long life- better to use inserts.

[@forevercomputing]

When I buy tools, I like to see both metric and imperial. Imperial still has its uses yet. Metric has 10 steps while imperial could have 12 to 16.

[@headcrash69]

Decimals exist. In Europe at least, you can buy tools in 1mm steps everywhere, in 0.5mm steps in every brick and mortar store and 0.1mm in specialised stores aimed at engineering professionals.

[@forevercomputing]

@@headcrash69 Metric is far from perfect. There are flaws with it. You can't let imperial go just yet. I've used an imperial socket on a metric car as my metric sockets would not fit, but that one imperial - best and tightest fit.

[@josifvissarionovich5320]

The reason why the bearing is to the side could be noise and wear. if the bearing is behind the blade like you show it will cut a groove to the bearing over time. And it is noisy due to bearing going at high RPM during the cut.

[@DurocShark]

Also larger contact patch to the blade. Less likely to deflect.

[@TheJourneyAhead]

A 10mm drill which is 9.9mm. Where do they manufacture those crap? Even the cheapest drills I ever bought in Germany had at least the proper size. Most of the time the biggest issue is that they get blunt very fast or were never sharp at all

[@richardhenry5961]

I got to say this, that is impressive in what you did... I have a Band Saw CARTER Guide System. 3-bearing wheels top & bottom. I had blocks, yet gave me a lot of issues. It was an investment $150.00 for the new Carter Guides. The funny part is that my BAND-SAW was $189.00 Penn State Industries 1992. Did the Carter Guides in 2010. I changed the tires on the wheels, better quality for blade control and the Carter Guides made it a completely different & a better band-saw. Blades last for yrs instead months. It was worth the investment just in saving blades.

[@RANDALLOLOGY]

I don't know anything about that exotic wood that you used, but if it's like most wood, would it not be susceptible to humidity with expansion and contraction that would throw your blade out of alignment??? I was thinking possibly using delrin.

[@bretgg44]

www.grainger.com/category/machining/clamping-workholding-positioning/machine-handles/adjustable-machine-handles?analytics=nav For your lower carriage adjustments?

[@SchaeferJamesE]

Blade guards are over rated.

[@jatflash]

Very well done young man. Your creative efforts almost inspire me to overcome my procrastination.

[@ELCADAROSA]

... almost.

[@mikefunnell4294]

Hi Robert ,a great video again. A point for you, drill shanks are smaller in diameter than the flanks normally around 4 thousandths of an inch so you always measure the flanks . This was done so you can drill deeper than the flute length.Keep up the good work and thank you for making me laugh.

[@AJBtheSuede]

The shaft of a medium sized twist drill bit is often about 0.1mm or slightly less than 1/128" smaller than the sharpened facets on the cutting edges. This is for clearance in either very hard that would grab the flat shaft surface, or very flexy materials that "bounce back" after the cutting edge - like softer woods or plastics. Also, the specification on a drillbit governs the hole diameter the drill will make WHEN USED IN A STABLE FIXTURE ON A CLAMPED WORKPIECE... :) When you use a two-flute drillbit freehand in a non-clamped workpiece, the hole you make isn't a circle. It's almost alway slightly triangular (or hexagonal - depends on what resonance you hit). The maximum inscribed circle in that triangle is often about 0.5% smaller than the drill diameter.

[@BrucesWorldofStuff]

Well I see what my Old Old Sears band saw is going to get as soon as I watch this video a few more or 10 times. I think I will leave out the Oops! Lol So who can send this old fart some purple heart? :-D Oh! An some of those bit things with the chart... :-) Thanks for the video! LLAP

[@geekjoan]

That is not how metric drills are sorted at all. That must be some american wird system with letters and numbers that dont have anything to do with the size. Also, if you get a 10 mm drillbit and its not 10 mm, go back and get a new one. That one was 9.9 and that is not 10.

[@Vironicer]

Do you like ball bearing guides better or ceramic guides? I'm looking to get a bandsaw but can't decide between two. One is a jet 14inch, which a friend is selling for $900, and the other would be a new Laguna 1412 bandsaw. So, ball bearings or ceramic?

[@liquidrockaquatics3900]

I am ASSUMING that the bearings are oriented sideways because it’s less machining to put one screw mechanism into the block to move them forward and back instead of a yoke And a carriage to have them traverse and stay oriented properly