Underfloor heating in a van using Bobil Vans water heater and diesel heater!

[@PtangPtangBiscuitBarrelSmith]

Brilliant system. I need something bigger than a T5 but when I do get something I will be using Bobilvan kit without a doubt. It's a no brainer.

[@bobilvans4205]

Thanks!

[@HorseboxCamper]

What a clever but simple system, brilliant stuff!

[@londonjacks8371]

Great job Ed, very efficient and effective, I will be using this system in my next build!

[@garenkarapetian709]

About this video, 2:21 I don't know how effective those foil strips are, but placing a 1mm aluminium sheet on top of the coper piping would help dissipate the heat more effectively. Also, final layer of plywood flooring acts as more of an insulator here. 1mm aluminium with a tough vinyl flooring seems a better choice. Aluminium sheet would also help dissipate the downward pressure on the coper pipes when stepping on them.

[@martinrechtenbach9226]

I’ve thought about that myself but came to the conclusion that you might get issues with the copper reacting with aluminum over time… i know it’s more of an issue in the electrical world but under my floor I wouldn’t want to risk it. Maybe someone here knows more about that! 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@spaceboypoogie]

All great points, Folks. You could supply your own spray adhesive, and use Copper Tape that is sold to keep Slugs out of the Garden.

[@davidasquith2102]

Definitely will have this when I do my van build, fantastic idea and well made 👍

[@dylmey]

Would you be able to do a video that shows (or explain) all the different states of running. For example: summer water heating only, winter floor and van heat only. Also include how much of the system is automated and how you ensure the heat exchangers that are "not in use" are kept from overheating damage? thx.

[@ourworldonwheels]

I’ve used multi solve , same brand as the CT1 adhesive and it’s good!! It might be worth a try mate if you’ve still got staining 👍🏼

[@MrTemzi]

If the pump turns off when the temperature gets too high, will the water/glycol boil in the radiator? Would that cause issues?

[@bobilvans4205]

@@MrTemzi it won’t boil-that’s what glycol is for, it has a much higher boiling point than water.

[@MrTemzi]

@@bobilvans4205 But what about the water heater radiators behind it? I'm planning a similar system so that's why i'm asking for info🙂. I was going to order you'r electronic valves to use with a thermostat, mut you don't seem to sell those anymore.

[@bobilvans4205]

@@MrTemzi we have an automated diverter as part of the kit. Without this and the smart controller there may be safety implications.

[@MrTemzi]

@@bobilvans4205 ok thanks for the info!

[@mikemiller8718]

Great setup and the hot water heater is awesome! So I already have my van built with water heater (isotemp square) and water tank, could I use this with the glycol heater to send it to my water heater? Do you think it would heat it up like the coolant loop from van engine, I know it wont be as hot but instead of me rigging up the water heater exchange system.

[@garenkarapetian709]

Hi Ed, I've heard of Bobil system couple of years ago, but discovered this channel only today. Love how you experiment and measure results, and evaluate the effectiveness!!! There's an idea that has been brewing in my head, which led me to this channel, but I haven't seen anyone trying it. How about eliminating the need for the diesel heater or propex, altogether? How about harnessing the heat from the engine to heat not only water, but also air? Theoretically, I'm thinking this can be done by creating 3 isolate-able loops (that can run in unison too) - one for the calorifer hot water tank, one for the underfloor heater, and one for air heat exchange to blow hot air. According to my calculations, with good enough spray-foam insulation and no windows, 20-40 minute daily drive should produce 20L of hot 80C water and enough air heat to keep 8 cubic meters of air at 23-24C. If this works, then the need for the chinese diesel heater or propex is almost eliminated - they'll remain only as a backup source of air heat. Do you reckon it's an idea worth exploring?

[@newlinerealboi3434]

How are you planning to store the air heat?

[@maurizioteobaldelli4845]

Do you think it would be possible to use your system in combination with a block heater instead that a diesel heater?

[@linz_in_NZ]

What a clever system, it looks like it would also be great for Tiny Houses too

[@flapper111uk]

Whats the thernocouple you mentioned for overheating? Is it in the kit ?

[@bobilvans4205]

@@flapper111uk yes it’s in the kit

[@mingueyox]

Hey Ed, great video and great content. I am discovering underfloor heating for vans and I am quite excited... Quick questions : 1) Why using copper pipes? Cost savings? Better heat conductivity? Aren't the pipes make "cracking" noise when heating and cooling like in old houses? 2) The link to your product /kit appears to be broken, I would bw interested to know which heat exchanger you are using and the cost of a kit. Thanks mate 👍👍👍

[@bobilvans4205]

We used copper because is was only 8mm diameter and we don’t like to lose floor height. You can use alternative pipe if needed. The product is here: www.bobilvans.co.uk/product-page/underfloor-heating-kit

[@mingueyox]

@@bobilvans4205Make sense. Thank you very much 👍👍👍

[@abecoulter8550]

i assume this can be used with LPG heaters too

[@bobilvans4205]

It can!

[@abecoulter8550]

@@bobilvans4205 im keen to get a smart controlled sysem in my caravan, air heated and tanked with the element as a dump load for my solar and wind charge controller

[@leblancexplores]

Anyone have an idea if a hydronic pump style heater or the diesel heater more efficient? I can see the only advantage of the former is you can wire it up to your engine coolant loop.

[@aarongarmon3809]

Could this be done with the Heatsource Propex HS2800? I really like this approach, but would like to use propane. Extremely tidy install by the way!

[@bobilvans4205]

Yes, it can be done with any heat source!

[@calamityjaycantebrigge]

I'm considering underfloor heating for my 7.5t library bus conversion, but I'm concerned about longevity, servicing accessibility if there was a leak and ongoing maintenance. Could you please advise me? Thanks

[@bobilvans4205]

It’s why we suggest the the underfloor pipe is one length, without joins. The rest is above the floor so easily maintained.

[@RAMBO6724922]

would this need mixing valve?

[@bobilvans4205]

No, it just heats the coolant off the diesel heater

[@szsSteka]

Hi Ed, I'm about to install your system, I'm wondering how thick wood did you install on top of it? I have the 9mm factory standard ply I'm thinking about using, will that let the warmth through?

[@bobilvans4205]

We usually use 3-4mm. The thinner the better. 9mm will take a while to heat up.

[@llouky]

Do you sell the extra exchanger mounted for the glycol in your shop? Interested in doing something similar in my new van, also have a Bobil hot water system in my current one!

[@bobilvans4205]

Yes it’s there as a kit!

[@experimentaenlavan8081]

La siguiente que me camperize lo monto igual

[@David_11111]

Yay

[@jay6.7powerstroke63]

what turns the diesel heater on and off?

[@bobilvans4205]

Your finger on the ‘on’ button 😀

[@jay6.7powerstroke63]

@@bobilvans4205 haha. I guess more of what I'm asking is when your water heater comes up to temperature, what turns off the heater so its not wasting fuel? or would i need to turn on and off manually?

[@bobilvans4205]

@@jay6.7powerstroke63 The underfloor heating will run all the time that the heater is on. The heater is thermostatically controlled so will regulate it’s power according to the air temperature in the van.

[@RogersRamblings]

Looks good, keeping to the KISS principle.

[@darrenlegallais1974]

Good effort guys… I’m yet to but my hot water heater system off of you 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@bobsnabby2298]

You actually didn't explain it very clearly what components are and what do they do. So its a bit of no use this vid.