Understanding Model Railroad Track

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[@Trains-With-Shane]

I will also sing the praises of Kato Unitrack in N scale as well. My "Rescue" layout that i'm working on used Atlas and maybe Peco code 80 track. And some of it being Flex Track. It has proven far more difficult to work with in regards to repairs and replacement. Kato Unitrack just snaps together and works. Also for beginners I don't recommend using Flex track. Just use standard pre-cut and formed curves, etc. Flex track can achieve a lot of great things but it can be a little bit of a hassle to work with because you have to keep pressure on it else it wants to straighten back out, lol.

[@StockportJambo]

Use drawing pins (push pins in the US?) in between the sleepers to hold the track in position while you place it. That way you don't need to hold it down.

[@Trains-With-Shane]

@@StockportJambo That's what I do. push pins and track nails. but it's not for the novice.

[@raymondleggs5508]

Tomix Fine track is also good

[@muir8009]

I've actually found the tomix better quality than the kato, and the variety is better. Although the lighter ballast mightn't appeal

[@wilzdart]

Jimmy I too used Kato unitrack for my upper level, my layout fills a 26X16 train room. It does work well but there are some down sides to it. Kato straight track longest piece is a little under 10" long. Which leaves a lot of rail joints ( I solder them together 3 ft long ) and leave sections with just rail jointers for expansion. the other issue is they dont fit flush so you get a bump over the joint. The other issue is with #4 turn outs , The great thing about the Kato track you can get it up and running in a very short time the other thing that is good you can cut the track to fit a space with first cutting the road bed in the middle take out the amount to get the correct size then just slide the road bed and cut the rails that hang past the end of the piece. I don't like the expansion track.

[@roadwarrior114]

The only coffee I drink is Monster Energy Irish, Salted Carmel, Loca Moca, and Mean Bean.

[@v_the_engineer]

Hi I just found your channel! My husband does S scale American flyer and just got me my own Kato N scale starter as an anniversary present. It is so cute! For coffee, I love my local shop Apocalypse Coffee, particularly The Awakening blend. Super tasty and goes well with vanilla milk! Looking forward to watching your channel over the next few weeks.

[@dkaustin98]

Now that you have gone over the track heights/codes are you going to do a part two talking about pizza cutter flanges found on older equipment that require a higher code to keep from banging along on the ties? How about the special rail joiners that allow two different codes to be joined together? Then there is the Peco N scale Code 55, which really isn't. In the way Peco manufactures their code 55 is so it is code 55 from the outside, appearance, and code 75 between the rails so it will accommodate most pizza cutter flanges of the older equipment. Just some ideas for a part two.

[@gerrbearlavallee6687]

I have been out of model railroading since I was a teenager and just started again since I have retired. I have picked up bits and pieces of info , but your very thorough explaination of trackage is perfect. Thanks. And I am drinking Eight o"clock whole bean, freshly ground. Black, of course.

[@edwardaudet8367]

Excellent video, I'm drinking 8 o'clock coffee this A.M. It's nice to be in the know about the N scale track. I have always used Atlas track for me it's the easiest to buy.

[@H.O.Scalemodeler4501]

Not coffee, drinking Barq’s Root Beer. I love this stuff! I’ll also note, if you are going to run old HO scale stuff from the 80s and farther back you will want code 100 track. Old rolling stock and locomotives have deeper flanges which on short track (code 83 and 70) can sometimes ride on the ties. If you plan on running new equip you should be fine with the shorter stuff however older stuff may have trouble on non-code 100 track.

[@dhanushwimaladharma2524]

Thank you for explaining, Jimmy ❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥. May Jimmy guide us !

[@TheTrainFreak]

Even though HOn30 can use N scale track to run, the sleepers or ties are too small and too close together to actually represent HO scale. Same goes with HOn3 using TT(Table-top) gauge (1:120) and On30 using HO/OO track. Great explanation nevertheless! - Jason

[@boxcarthehusky420]

You can get HOn3 and 30 track with the correct tie spacing, Walther's has flex track.

[@muir8009]

Of course bemo HOm and the standard roco, peco mini trains etc HOe are all correct

[@munteanucatalin9833]

Roco Line H0 track with roadbed is code 83. Therefore, code 83 can come with roadbed and this particular track is extremely good when talking about DCC.

[@bostonrobb1684]

Hi Jimmy, nice thoughts on tracking. Enjoyed it alot. I use super flex line code 80 n scale, 32'' long. About 26 pieces to complete my line. Awesome stuff, and no issues. I don't Detail. Happy happy .. BOSTONROBB 😎

[@jhoodfysh]

Nicely done and very helpful. Gratz.

[@Eduardomd54]

As always, very good information you share with us. In my case I have been buying different brands and CODES of HO track. Piko, Atlas, Roco. I Made a double track, and I found that even though I did not have issues in the connection itself, I have to install transicion joiners. but some of my locomotives, just did not run "smooth" as I expected, because, I believe the code rail in some sections, just did not behave well with the flange of the wheels. I Have in my roster of trains, Europeans, like Roco, JC. and in the American Roster: Athearn Genesis, Scale Trains, Rapido, Broadway Limited, MTH. And in the sections of poor compatibility they make a lot of noise ! like BRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. the Flange touching the ties !, I believe. So I think here is an issue so say more about track code and compatibility with Locomotives & Rolling stock. I imagine the solution is simple: Forget different brands and standardise to Track Code 100 . But I wish I could hear from an expert, like you, all of this considerations. I believe it will be important information to the MRR community. Thank you Jimmy. Saludos desde México (greetings from Mexico)

[@davidsheriff8989]

HO track is also OO track in UK and is 1:76 scale...

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

good vid thanks lee

[@d.l.hemmingway3758]

Scale for me equals O or 1/4 inch equals 1 foot. Gauge = 2.5 feet or 30 inches between the rails otherwise HO gauge.

[@MTCentral2024]

I ain’t drinking no coffee, Ima 12

[@randygates364]

Excellent explanation of different track! I model n-scale. I use Peco code 55 mainly. It can be a challenge but I like the realist appearance. However, I use Kato Unitrack in tunnels, hidden staging, and the helix because it is rock solid and virtually derailment free. I learned this lesson after my first “hidden” helix inside a mountain that, when a derailment occurred, it was a nightmare. No problems since I switched to Kato.

[@NathanielPiscian]

Brilliant pun

[@Ranger5355]

Michigan guy, eight o'clock beans, grind at home. Drinking it black, no sugar. Rather ordinary, I think.

[@bradygamble214]

Black rifle coffee every morning it will change your day around

[@raymondleggs5508]

I have to use code 100 because I run mostly European trains and the cars and old engines have huge wheels

[@bgm-1961]

The thing that confused me for the longest time about track code is how two different scales will use the same code track. For instance, both HO scale and N scale modelers use code 55 rail. For years, I wondered if code 55 in HO is a different (actual) rail height than code 55 in N. But they're exactly the same. Which is odd, as code 55 for N scale is already considered small. For HO, it's even smaller!

[@honestycounts9352]

The 'black' stuff that gets all over your tracks and locomotive wheels is the oxides that occur from micro-arcing of the current between the rails and the wheels. To stop this oxide from being formed, just apply a very thin film of conductive grease to the tops of the rails. Apply some to your fingertips, and then rub a thin film of it onto the rails. rub your finger over the rails 5 or 6 times to make sure the grease is squeezed really thin so it won't be too thick. This should last a month if you do daily operations on the track, and up to a year on lightly used tracks.

[@saritaram2200]

Cal i run one train on ho scal and n scal ?

[@NYandAtlantic]

Thanks for the info I’m probably gonna be using atlas code 100 still trying to figure out my layout just built a tunnel out of a cardboard box still have work to be done on it. I happen to like the Bsnf locomotive. My son likes Canadian national any suggestions on running 2 freight trains and 1 steam engine as my wife likes the steam era

[@tyhik9338]

Does Atlas tracks work for floor layouts?

[@robertnelson7367]

Red Brick Organic Medium Roast.

[@melkitson]

A nice sensible guide Jimmy. Thanks. As side issue I recently commented twice on a previous video and the comments never appeared. Maybe this was because I mentioned a major Chinese supplier by name. Interesting.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

hmm that's interesting. I went and double checked through my "held for review" comments and did not see any of yours there. If your comment was reported, you may have gotten an email.

[@melkitson]

@@DIYDigitalRailroad Nothing at all Jimmy. I will drop you an email as there are some photos and a video which I would like you to see.

[@Jason_DPMF]

Good morning Jimmy

[@a_smolroach]

Drinking black tea with no suger

[@billgraham6278]

I’m drinking Equator Coffee from Almonte, Ontario. Do you have a Circuit Breaker board on your layout with the Arduino setup?

[@markliesegang928]

HI Jimmy, Question - do you need to isolate a siding at the turnout so that the track beyond the turnouts is powered via a switch and that way not relying on the turnout to supply power to the siding? Mark

[@bearabletable7527]

KATO UNITRACK is soooooooooo good

[@lorenzobeckmann3736]

Agree with Kato HO unitack---by trial and error/displeasure. Tracks with roadbed will be more "forgiving" of table top inconsistences. I'm almost ready to replace all track with Kato HO; oval sets show radius and length---?is radius of inside rail, center line or outside rail? In any case, if inside rail radius, then add 3" to total curve for minimum table width. Kato locos & rail cars from Japan run & look great.

[@jamesbehan4730]

Folgers Gourmet Supreme, Black

[@StockportJambo]

I'm drinking Tassimo Americano Smooth, black, with 2 sugars. In the UK, we don't generally have track with plastic road beds. You either get flexi track or set track on its own. OO is the most common gauge at 1:76, but there's also N gauge at 1:148, or 009 which is OO scale in narrow gauge. Peco is probably the go to manufacturer for any or all of these, and they are all nickel silver.

[@H.O.Scalemodeler4501]

I love peco products and I live in America! Some hobby shops I’ve been to over here carry it which is surprising, but not hard to see why. Nothing beats a peco switch!

[@StockportJambo]

@@H.O.Scalemodeler4501 Agreed, they make good stuff. Not really tried the Kato or other brands to compare... when I started out there was Hornby and Peco. And you didn't touch Hornby track with a 10' bargepole! 🤣

[@muir8009]

Ironically of course, it was the European and English manufacturers that started the roadbed track systems, first in metal, then bakelite, then plastic. Unfortunately in the pursuit of dubious "realism" the practical advantages of roadbed track was of course lost, rather a pity. The US tried a rubber roadbed that you subsequently ran conventional tinplate on, but it never really took off.

[@StockportJambo]

@@muir8009 Interesting, didn't know that. For me, I prefer just the track. You can then choose whether to add road beds (typically using strips of cork, which also acts as a good sound deadening system) or not, but for me it's cleaner that way & takes up less space. Especially for fiddle yards.

[@muir8009]

@@StockportJambo one of my layouts I've used track with ballast etc but I've really ended up realising how extremely practical and reliable the plastic track bed actually is; a qualifier being of course with well thought out geometry. Obviously we're talking the likes of tomix, tillig, kato, fleischman, marklin and the like. Just everytime I wanted to make a track adjustment or changed my mind or something I'd inevitably end up having to trash 50% of the track, or theres that slight unwanted kink or hump or whatever, and I'm just sick of spending more time adjusting than running trains :) Theres also that factor that well ballasted track work looks absolutely stunning, but less than average can look absolutely crap

[@andycrawford9870]

Great explanatory video, once again. I agree that Kato Unitrack is the best.

[@TSJoe]

First comment. Helllo all 👋

[@TheTrainFreak]

The first reply. 😃

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

The first creator reply.

[@David_Mattox]

Some reply that’s completely random.

[@melkitson]

Hello from Portugal. 🇵🇹

[@StockportJambo]

The first reply from the UK.

[@muir8009]

Actually Jimmy, I've found the tomix to be better looking, better quality, and better variety than kato, which I guess is why tomix is the top seller, although the Kato is a good second best, although the fleischmann could be a very viable alternative: the plastic roadbed looks superficially the best

[@OTRWA]

I'm drinking whatever I can get my hands on! My kids are killing me!

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

I feel that this morning.

[@OTRWA]

@@DIYDigitalRailroad Hahaaa...mostly

[@earlfreeman93]

I always call track code rail code.

[@timothyjohnston4083]

Nothing about flex-track ? Other than comparing the rail heights of Bachman EasyTrack code 100 and Atlas Flextrack code 83, you make no mention of the various flexible track options out there.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

That is a good point. This was more of an explainer of the terminology that could be confusing to a beginner. My next project railroad which will be later this year will use flex track and I will be talking about it then.

[@SFCRambo60]

I wish you had a sample of all the track to view. You have me completely confused.

[@timtheeagle1]

Whilst Kato unitrack is easy to use, and I have used it on an old layout, I find the look of the roadbed not to be convincing. No offense intended to anyone using it... I run trains from all over the world and different eras that would make some cringe lol. I just think it's a lot harder to make unitrack look "scale" with everything else you spend so much time and money detailing and getting just right. Just an opinion. Good way to start out and see if you like the hobby though

[@El_Crab]

hello

[@AnonOmis1000]

I'm drinking water :|