Unleash your table saws crosscut potential! DIY sliding crosscut table saw upgrade

[@MakeSomething]

Well done! It’s such a useful add on!

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thanks for the inspiration!!

[@jonyqwoodworks]

The whole idea… but great execution !! I need to build me one of this

[@ferriswhitehouse1476]

Very nice build. You could consider putting the rails upside down attached to the underside of the slider table, with the blocks stationary on the chassis. You could make your slider much longer and more rigid and might reduce any risk of bumping into the rails and bending them.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Hmm, interesting idea. I think it would work yes, the only thing tho, and I probably didn't convey this in the video, the rails are REALLY heavy. The other thing is it might make aligning it all to the mitre slot more challenging since you're attempting to do that across an entire rail rather than the guide blocks. But it could also mean a smaller footprint rail. I'm sure those could be easily overcome, maybe in a version 2.0. :)

[@ferriswhitehouse1476]

@@barberspaddockwoodworking Ya very good points. Agree with that alignment of the blocks would be tricky. Maybe slightly oversized holes with cap head screws + washers instead of countersinks so you could have a little play in the blocks for alignment. But either way is good :)

[@prosuc]

@@barberspaddockwoodworking the blocks alignment could be easily solve drilling the holes bigger and use flat head bolts, then when you install the rail the blocks will autoalign. Congratulations, great project!

[@Bob-o-h4k]

All he had to do is make the slider longer the same length as the rails so it can come back farther and it won’t tip it off balance? Fence.

[@HBSuccess]

This was great…I don’t recall anyone else tackling this kind of build at that level of detail. I tried it w some drawer slides in the past and it was a fail… this is obviously doable bc… you did it! Ima make myself one this winter!

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I took inspiration obviously from the one that David @ Make Something did, and I think that's a pretty good video too, but hopefully I covered how I went about it that might let other people do the same!

[@Karaon]

subscribed almost immediately I think flipping the rails to the sliding carriage and installing linear bearings underneath fixed to the table would be a better idea, both stabilizing the carriage and avoiding to leave the bearings open to dust etc. Might need some experimenting but hey, thats what this is all about. I am currently on a simple sled in aluminum grooves. You made something I envy a lot yet im building a cnc on a 40mm linear rods similar to onefinity... hehe different workshops diifferent procesess. Happy building

[@Karaon]

btw the idea to flip the rails with bearings comes from a cnc Z axis where main router plate is with the rails and bearings are fixed on the X axis

[@aaronalquiza9680]

1:37 i have a crosscut sled smaller than the one you have and i already don't like reaching for it. lol it works well but it's just me being lazier than normal.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

100% can relate to this. If it's annoying or too much hassle to get out or use, you won't use it!

[@tomfull6637]

Regardless of the length of the miter fence (or any fence) a 0,5 degree play at the miter slot is still only, and precisely a 0,5 degrees deviation at the far end of the fence. The triangle formed gets bigger the longer the fence but all angles stay the same Kind regards Anders Sweden

[@OurLifeIs]

What camera/microphone do you use? It sounds so good! Getting into youtube and am searching for good gear. Thank you!

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

It might surprise you to learn: The camera is an old smartphone, specifically a Samsung S10. The mic is a RODE Wireless ME. You do not have to top end uber expensive equipment to just get started.

[@kevinthomson6324]

I’ve been wanting to make one of these for quite some time now. That tip for alignment of the rails is amazing. I’ll definitely have to make a mental note of that one.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I can't take credit for that one, Make Something is where I saw that trick.

[@Damon_Barber]

I like it! Great idea! I want one for my saw, now! Adding this to my ever-growing shop project list!

[@lionzion5042]

Great job! Really informative voice over too. Look forward to the next video! We’ll be watching :)

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thanks!

[@Jettwoodworks]

You could chamfer the ends of the rails to decrease the chance of the blocks catching when they slide back on. However, it seems like you got a pretty perfect alignment already.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

This is good thinking, and worth pointing out that I did actually do this. While the rails did have some chamfer to the edges, I did come back with a file and increase it to make it easier to re-engage. I would highly recommend this to anyone else as well.

[@zanepaxton7452]

It always makes be smile the way brits pronounce A-loo-a-mini-I-mum with so may syllables 😅

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Pretty sure I said it both ways to appease everyone. :)

[@Fusion_Woodworking]

If I were to add a sliding table to a cabinet saw, I would take off the left extension wing and get the sliding table closer to the blade, make sliding table slightly wider, a support that can attach to the left end for very wide work piece. That would also solve the sliding table fence being too long to stay balanced problem. Overall, a sliding table is so nice to use, and I am glad you went this route.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I almost nearly did this, you are correct, it would be nicer to get this closer to the blade. In the end tho, I decided not to go that route for the following reason: removing that left wing would be fine, but then the rails for the table saw fence would be in the way. I can't move them because there is no room on the right, and cutting them would be a big risk (what if this doesn't work), and more over it would basically eliminate being able to use the fence on the left of the saw blade. So in the end I think this is the compromise between drastically changing my saw vs something that's just bolted on.

[@saxus]

So, basically what you need is a proper formating/sliding table saw. IDK why US woodworkers are so obsessed with cabinet saws.

[@Fusion_Woodworking]

@@saxus I do not either. Sliding table saw is so much safer to use. You can see the one I use in my channel.

[@barry.w.christie]

Excellent video, not only for showing how you went about building but the issue you faced while doing so. An idea I had for a sliding table was to use full extension drawer slides joined back to back in opposite directions, the outer sides would be be connected to the fixed part of the saw and the inner sides would be connected to the sliding part, thereby allowing full extension in both directions (you could add additional sets in the middle for extra support). How good it'd be all depends on how good the drawer slides are, i.e. is there any vertical movement in them at full extension.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thanks! I've seen some people use draw slides but I never felt confident they would be robust enough for this kind of application. Given the price of these rails is relatively inexpensive, I'd probably recommend this type of path, but hey, I'm always happy to be proven wrong.

[@Greybeardmedic]

Extension slides that are strong enough for this weight and extension length are very expensive, and no matter what you do they are still susceptible to a lot of deflection. The Dewalt 746 table saw had slides like this with a 20"-30" extension (I am not sure exactly how much). Every other sliding table has used rails of some type due to better design and reliability.

[@kz.irudimen]

Another solution for large cross cuts is a norm abram style panel sled. I really need to make one.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

That's certainly another way, but I've been itching to try this solution, and the fact I was able to get the rails was the perfect excuse. I dare say if it wasn't for that, I'd be doing the same thing and going with another sled like Norms.

[@zanepaxton7452]

Of course, there’s something to be said for track saws which are generally safer. But that implies a large work table to hold the sheet goods.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I %100 agree. I still plan/want to get a good tracksaw (I have one of those Kreg jigs at the moment), but like all things it's about the $$$ so am patiently waiting to save up for that.

[@ronboe6325]

I was thinking the same. Track saws bring a LOT to the table. If you add in the festool MFT table or make your own it greatly enhances the track saw. But. At a cost. I've also found my tablesaw skills are much better than my tracksaw skills (sheet goods still are better served with the tracksaw) so I can't replace the tablesaw, as much as I'd like to.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

'At a cost'. Isn't that just the motto of wood working tool buying. :) But I agree, a MFT would be nice, Peter @ 10minute workshop has a nice setup that would not be horrible to mimic.

[@joshuapuyear6818]

Are you making plans for your sliding cross cut sled

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

At this point, probably not. Purely because it would only be relevant to my table saw and the length of the sled I made. I would say that it's simple enough that most could follow the basic design concept and adapt it for their own saw.

[@MelbourneMaker]

Such a good table upgrade, and awesome video as always mate!

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

Well done it looks and works great and the transition back to the rail is perfect

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thank you very much!

[@gregmize01]

just awesome!

[@justplanebob105]

This is an excellent idea and well done. I love the rails! I have a SS JSS so I can fold it up out of the way when not in use. I'm going to try to adapt this design to be detachable and portable. I wonder if I can clamp it in the same place each time? Thanks so much for the ideas and the video. 😄

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Glad it was helpful!

[@keithclark1863]

Great video mate. It is so nice to see all the equipment you have/use, is mostly the same in my two car garage shop here in Riddells Creek VIC. I will check-out more of your videos and have subscribed for your future ones. Good job mate. kmdc in Oz.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@Velly_drums]

1st video and New Sub!! Thanks for the build and how to make it!

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Welcome!

[@graduallywizardly]

Yes. Every time you make things for your saw my brain gets excited. :) Excellent video.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thanks! I think at this stage, we can focus on something else in the shop, but I'm pretty happy with the table saw at the moment. :)

[@jyfjgtyuh]

Very nice job, sliding table saws are much more versatile and safe. Its better to move the saw to the right side of the shop, you will be abale to crosscut longer boards.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I agree, and would move the saw, but it's just not possible unfortunately due to the layout. I'll probably revisit this some day, but in the meantime it's stuck on the left hand side.

[@jyfjgtyuh]

@@barberspaddockwoodworking Yes, we all need to live with our limitations, but sometimes it's helpful to rethink everything and rearrange the layout of our shop . I'm using a track saw for crosscutting. If you work mainly with plywood and MDF sheets, track saw is the best solution.

[@wanpengqian]

a nice build!

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thanks!

[@coolabahwoodworking]

This is awesome! Well done mate!

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Thanks a lot!

[@jasonm.7358]

I always said the only type of tablesaw I would consider is a sliding-table, and now you have me rethinking that. Now if I can figure out how to add that digital iGaging miter gauge and add a DRO to a good fence and a stop on the sled…

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Now there's an idea...digital bevel gauge...I like it. Perhaps version 2.0.

[@trentwalsh8168]

Mate. Awsome video as expected. Now plz sell plans for this and dust collection 😂 i have same saw as you and keeen to upgrade....❤❤❤

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I'm more than happy to give away the secret sauce, ping me and I'll send you what ever files I have. :)

[@trentwalsh8168]

@@barberspaddockwoodworking ohh man theres noway!!!! 😍😍😍 ill get you on instagram mate!!

[@vmoutsop]

Very cool. Love it.

[@FixitFingers]

Now that is a fine looking member list 😂 I'd say close the books but I'd hate to deny others their premium wooden laser disc 😊 So much goodness in this video, the problem solving, research and personal twists to create your own unique solution is awesome. I'd say plans for this would sell very well... With an associated affiliate link list naturally 😉

[@WarrenHawkins-y5v]

Hi. Another good video - well done. A couple of questions if I may ….. 1. Are you happy with the Torquata mitre gauge? 2. Did you get the aluminium fence from Timbecon? Is it the Torquata one? Thanks.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

1.) Yes, I'm happy with it! I've had it for ages, but what I've discovered is that the design of this appears to be mass-produced under many brands. I've seen some WEN ones, some BANGGOOD ones that are all identical. Find the one that is the cheapest, because to be honest, the Torquata branded one isn't! 2.) No, the aluminium fence was from eBay, link in the description.

[@woutervanduijn4331]

Maybe a good solution to not have the rails in the way is to have the rail blocks stationary and the rails fitted to the sled itself ?

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

That could work, and I've thought about that as a solution, however, I do think there is one major flaw in that idea. In order for the rails not to leave the guide blocks still, you have to move the mitre gauge closer to the middle of the sled. If you leave the mitre at the front edge of the sled, you have the same problem, you have to leave the first guide blocks at the front to get through the cut because you have to go beyond the table saw blade exit. You would solve that by making the sled MUCH longer and moving the gauge further up the table (to a point it's past the blade without it being off the blocks), that however means when you draw the sled back, you have this massive amount of wasted sled that sticks out. I've modelled this in Sketchup and it honestly would work, but would have a huge footprint.

[@lukeschmitz5583]

What type of drill press is that?

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

It's the Bosch PBD-40. Highly recommended, and can be picked up for around $250 AUD when it's on sale on Amazon.

[@thedubwhisperer2157]

A really great video and error analysis. On a general note, it is very bad engineering practice to use multiple countersunk holes as a precision locator, since unless they are very accurately cut, they will all fight against each other. By all means use a single countersunk fixing to locate a part in a single plane, but the remaining fixings should be plain fasteners in oversize holes. For multiple components (two pairs of ball slides and two rails for example) then only one pair of fasteners on one rail should be countersunk whilst all others should be in clearance. Ditto the rail.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

This is good advice and probably something I should have mentioned, that on the second attempt, I 'shouldered' out the counter sinks (if that's the term to use) so they are flat rather than tapered, that's why they are so deep. This is likely part of why I struggled the first time, but was able to get it sorted the second.

[@dainermade]

Gump! God dang genius 🎉

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Ha, I wish I could take credit, but the inspiration came from Make Something, I just adapted to my saw, but so far can't complain on how it's turned out.

[@fabioules2737]

Couldn’t you also put the fence backwards on the front of the sled and use it like on a large sliding format saw? So that you are pushing the workpiece into the fence. Due to your design having the rails sticking out back this might extend the cutting length even more. Maybe not for daily use but when you just need those extra 5cm.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

OOOOHHH. I had read that a few times before I got what you were throwing out, but that idea is VERY juicy. I am going to have to remember this one and try that sometime.

[@samsonhorvath3614]

Nice job, but seems like a lot of time and fuss for that little of gain in crosscut length. I prefer a track saw and track square, sheet goods are all covered then.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

I completely get that. I'm not suggesting that everyone suddenly ditch their mitre and track saws, but this was something I've been wanting to at least experiment on for some time.

[@Greybeardmedic]

Manufacturers of sliding table saws like to have the sliding mechanism as CLOSE to the blade as possible. So whenever I see a DIY or homemade version I always wonder why people would keep the left side cast iron wing on the saw. It affects functionality of the sliding mechanism. Anyways, just an idea.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

It's always going to be a compromise isn't it. Ideally yes, if I could remove the wing I would, but then the rails for the fence would be in the way and I cannot move or cut them without severely reducing the capacity of the saw (or weakening the whole saw), defeating the purpose. It's probably for this reason, as you say, why people keep the wing on. I'm not saying it's a perfect solution, but all things considered, I've increased my cross-cutting capacity with little to no real issues. I may, one day revisit this and see if there is a way to engineer something that can go in-between the left wing and the main body, but honestly, by that time, I'll probably be shopping for a new saw, and I'm sure some sort of sliding mechanism will be on the cards then as well. Appreciate the constructive comment.

[@jimitrioh]

Why not put the blocks on the bottom piece and the rails on the top side. This way it will ride on the 3 blocks at all time. Over all good effort.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

It's a good idea, and I contemplated it (actually still am, I may revisit this), but the issue I felt at the time (and I guess still do) is the rail is VERY heavy and it would make the sled really heavy. I think if I went down this path, the right thing to do is ditch the frame out of formply and go with a metal frame. Only problem is that I don't now much or anything about metal fabrication...but I guess there is always a chance to learn yet another thing!

[@anderslagerqvist2642]

You could make use of the space below the slider for small saw tools/jigs

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

@anderslagerqvist2642 I would love to do that but I can't unfortunately. The access door to get to the tablesaw is on that side and needs that space to be able to swing open. Given the chance, I would have preferred to make almost a complete cabinet to fit there. I'll probably still put my cross-cut sled there tho!

[@cjlamber]

An inch??? How very Seppo of you. Sorry you are not old enough to remember inches.……….sheeez! By the way love your channel 😊

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

HA! I'm thrilled someone thinks I'm young. :)

[@stevenlee1637]

woah, a woodworking elon musk

[@bwimbwim4206]

Buy a miter saw or a tracksaw.

[@barberspaddockwoodworking]

Or hell, just buy a panel saw.

[@troyqueen9503]

@@barberspaddockwoodworkingI did.👍🏝️🇨🇦