Update - Brewing System Element

[@preuc3367]

I recirculate every mash with my herms and it keeps temps homogenous. Not recirculating also could work in a BIAB with the old fashioned stir method. Cheers!

[@brewingbadTN]

Speaking of efficiency, I was able to increase my efficiency ~5-10% with stirring the mash with the drill mixer and with using rice hulls. I’m a proponent for recirculating as well. Cheers NWSB 🍻

[@NWsmallbatchBrewing]

@@brewingbadTN I'm a rice hull lubba

[@Leadership_matters]

Ooohhh man. There ya go. I commented before that my ink ird pid worked great for me and i do always recirculate.idk if you iodine test for conversion but my results are way better with recirculating.maybe thats why. Thanks for the content. Recirculate for life!!

[@NWsmallbatchBrewing]

@@Leadership_matters recirc4Life

[@jcinsaniac]

What system do you use, and at 1650 Watts - how long does it take you to get to mash temps, like 156-157F - then how long to get to a boil? I do BIAB in a 10 or 15 gallon kettle, and I use a 1000 watt sous vide to do my mashing and it is slow as molasses. I've already bought grain baskets and have a recirculation system...I always recirc and do full volume mash and I get very good efficency...I usually over perform. Thanks for the share!

[@NWsmallbatchBrewing]

Similar. 1650 low density element, I usually do 3 gallon batches. Takes 2-3 hours to heat from room temp. I've learned you have to recirculate while it's heating or it's not evenly heated. 10 gallon kettle. I also do full volume mash so around 4.5 gallons or for a full batch of beer (5G) I need more like 7 gallons of water depending on grain bill.

[@ladyfermenter-ThanksAPint]

Have you tried dissolveing the DME in water first? Thanks for the video.

[@NWsmallbatchBrewing]

@@ladyfermenter-ThanksAPint I dose each bottle as i only bottle a few off the batch. The rest is keged.

[@NeurosisNic]

The "company" you bought yours from does use use different housing for the element now and based on what yours looked like with the little well, probably different element too. My housing from them doesn't have the ground screw sticking out and never had an issue. Also, PID uses an algorithm and needs time to learn. Give it a bit more time b4 mashing in to let it go high and then low and each time it over and under shoots it will get better and better until its perfect. I let mine sit about 30 min once its around mash temp before mashing in.

[@NeurosisNic]

As for the baskets, I don't think they have gotten much better. I have about a 100 batches through mine and it's definitely got some rust spots and separated from the welds in a few places and a bit stretched out here and there. It still does its job but for the price, I hope I can get another 100+ batches out of it before any failures. I do love the company and continue to invest in their products because the customer service is second to none.

[@NWsmallbatchBrewing]

nice thanks for the tips I will try that !

[@NeurosisNic]

@NWsmallbatchBrewing I do feel like mine has gotten a little "dumber" over time, and I've never used the self/auto calibration feature before but thinking I probably should someday soon and more frequently.

[@dockofthebaycountrywines69]

Mine haven’t burnt out yet, but I might have the updated element. My issue is the same with getting it cleaned and it doesn’t heat my water to 212 F anymore. It maxes out 180 or so, but that’s it. I was wondering about a possible replacement. Does your replacement work as well as the original and get you the temps you need?

[@NWsmallbatchBrewing]

It doesn't need to hit 212, and if you are doing a full volume like 7 gallons it probably won't hit 212. Leave the lid on and cracked - I use the hop spider as a way to keep the lid just cracked a little, and set the PID to over 212 like 215F.

[@dockofthebaycountrywines69]

@@NWsmallbatchBrewing I’ll try that out next brew. Thanks 🙏🏾