Upgrading motor and lighting on a vintage Singer Sewing Machine

[@colingordon4]

Thanks for this video Harry, I've just completed my upgrade and it's not quite so scary now when trying to stitch slowly 😅 Many thanks Colin

[@polabear99]

Thank you so much for taking the time to put this film together. Extremely helpful - especially your explanation of the lamp writing, as the diagram on the inside of the unit was unclear. The visual of how you did this was clearer. The old Singer 329 I found in a charity shop is now fully functional and rejuvenated! This was a very good instruction video, with a clear explanation about the benefits of the extra power. On the original Singer motor, this machine was not fit for purpose. With the new differentiated speed control and energy-efficient light bulb, it has a new life as an almost industrial level worktool. I enjoyed upgrading the machine, but it is unlikely that I would have attempted it without watching your film. And your workshop looks so very cool!

[@livewiya]

I have a Singer 66 from 1948. I plugged it in when I first took receipt of it and it immediately ran - that being said: the wires' insulation near the terminals are gone (it could easily short) and the button within the foot pedal is somehow missing. The plug is also cracked and was being held together with electrical tape. I've since overhauled the machine itself but I wasn't looking forward to addressing each of the little electronic nuisances - your video was all the convincing I needed. I'm going to pick such a kit up. Thank you - my shop time will be able to be spent doing more enjoyable things. The practical reality is: although machines such as these outshine most modern equivalents, it's more than fair to say the electronic components are much, much better today. Like you, I'll take the best of both eras.

[@livewiya]

@Piper Mccoy I gave it a quick enough look over to know it wasn't going to kill me lol. I also have soldered/done a fair bit of circuitry so I knew what I needed to do to remain safe. So I have replaced the motor & wiring, and it does run happily. But I haven't used it beyond testing lol - I'm in the middle of building a low-bench. I hope to use the Singer 66 soon to sew up a canvas sling for a Tripolina-style chair I have (It currently has this dreadful synthetic fabric).

[@Askthedog12]

Harry a huge thank you to you for your videos ❤️ I got my mums old pinnock sewing machine ( I have lost her and my sis gave me the machine at xmas but i only just could bring myself to open it couple weeks ago ) and I have upgraded using the same motor you used and am thrilled.....she taught me to sew on it and I so happy now I habe oiled and new motor its fantastic 🙌🏻🙌🏻

[@harryrogers]

Great

[@colin101981]

I've just bought one of these Harry, it's great and I'm going to try the same motor upgrade as your video. Thankyou for posting it. Hope you're doing okay with your health - best wishes. 🙋‍♂🙋‍♂

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Colin.

[@siangbeh2687]

Thank you for sharing the video, Harry. I have just installed the motor for my mum. It works a treat.

[@harryrogers]

Thanks that's great

[@PINACI]

If you loosen the two screws holding the motor to the metal bracket and the bigger screw nut which holds the bracket to the machine then you can slide the belt over the motor wheel, then slide the motor back into position and tighten the screws, job done.

[@brettster3331]

Hi Harry, I understand the need for a more powerful motor. I believe your original Singer foot pedal is a carbon pile foot petal and not a rheostat and the carbon pile foot controls are fairly easy to service to get them to work correctly and accurately as to speed control. You do lovely work on your projects, and thank you for posting your videos. Brett

[@ryndl]

Cleaning and adjustment of the original will restore full control.

[@3000waterman]

Harry. In six years things have moved on. The perfect upgrade that, so far as I know, no-one is offering, would be a 18-24volt DC motor with foot peddle control. There would a dramatic increase in torque, and given a proprietary step down pully option, many metal vintage machines could be used to sew two layers of oak tanned leather (with the right needle). In the USA Sailrite seem to have come up with exactly that option for the bloody expensive Ultrafeed machine. I reckon a universal DC motor, step-down pulley arrangement could be sold for £75 max. I'm surprised such a solution hasn't popped-up on KZbin. A Pfaff 130-6 (for instance) would be unstoppable as a straight/zigzag portable, without the need for a servo motor on a big table.

[@philipslater5015]

I would agree about the DC motor. If you take even the most basic cordless drill, it is almost impossible to stop it turning. A 24-volt drill is extremely powerful. There's the added advantage of good speed control and reverse running as well. The replacement motors for sewing machines are invariably series wound universal types and come with a triac based foot control. The triac control is a whole lot better than the original resistance arrangement. Of course, triacs weren't available for very old machines. An old incandescent lamp dimmer (not LED) will control a universal motor quite nicely. The advantage of universal motors is that you can run them on DC as well as AC. A sewing machine motor will run on anything over 40-volts DC. Once you go to DC, you can use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), which transforms speed control. There's a bit more complex electronics, but I run a 1954 BAK motor on 160-volts DC with shaft speeds right down to 60-RPM. The single biggest problem is the foot pedal which now just has to vary a low voltage DC signal. From a mechanical point of view, all that is necessary is to convert the up/down movement of the pedal to a rotary movement. PWM modules with sophisticated speed control are widely available at between £50 and £100. If you buy the components, it's less than £20.

[@3000waterman]

@@philipslater5015 Hi Phil. Thank goodness I'm not alone in the wilderness. I just think this is so obvious I cannot understand why someone hasn't made a conversion kit. Sailrite (in the US) has made a kit for its own machine, but they charge a mint for it. Clearly they have got over the foot pedal problem. Does the pedal fit into the 24 volt supply, between the transformer and the PWM, or somewhere onto the PWM terminals? I see PWMs for sale quite cheaply on eBay, but goodness knows how they fit into the supply to the motor. For a motor I'm thinking a 24 volt electric scooter version, which seems to be about the right physical size. All of these requirements are incorporated into a 24 volt brushless motor drill, the trigger doing the job of a foot pedal - so it's just a case of identifying the parts, and how to wire them.

[@philipslater5015]

​@@3000waterman Waterman. You are absolutely correct. The simple AC series wound motor was all the early domestic machines had available. DC motors are much more available and with rare earth permanent magnets, DC motors are a good choice. Triacs are good, but with PWM, you deliver the full voltage all the time and just alter the time it's available. My BAK and other motors run at 160-volts DC and the voltage is switched at 10k Hz, so ten thousand times a second. Clearly, this needs electronic control, typically a microcontroller. The chain of events is feed 160-volts to the motor. Put a switch in that supply, typically a MOSFET (transistor). Control the MOSFET switching safely at low voltage say 5 to 12 volts. a A simple potentiometer varies the voltage going to the microcontroller, say 0 to 5 volts DC. The microcontroller varies the MOSFET switching according to the voltage. The main blocks are high voltage (160-volts DC) supply, microcontroller, MOSFET driver and MOSFET. Sounds complicated but it's not. The complicated bit is programming the microcontroller, but the code to do complete speed control is about 20 lines. The basic hardware excluding the high voltage supply is about £20. Powerful microcontrollers cost £2 or less. A school kid doing programming could write the code in a few hours. We maybe older ones might take longer. Of course, you can get the bulk of it ready made on eBay. Often the problem is that PWM controllers don't go over 60-volts DC, but use a 24-volt motor and problem solved. Other users have used e-scooter pedal controls, or pull the trigger out of a cordless drill and just figure out a way to press it. In the cordless drill, it's battery, trigger/speed control, motor, all in series. If you can conquer the microcontroller code, or bribe a kid to do it, then you can make the machine do anything. Fast, slow, inching, needle up, needle down, set speeds, slow start, display all the settings etc. My aim and many others, is to combine the superb engineering of old machines with modern electronics.

[@3000waterman]

@@philipslater5015 Phil. An outstanding reply. It's probably entirely lucid for the young, but I'm 80! Still, I want to do this, as you say, downstream to a vintage bullet-proof machine. Can we talk? John.

[@ramloganfracic5761]

Thank you for sharing this wonderful video. These old machines are made to last more than a lifetime. I have a Neechi Nova and the booklet says. Made to last a lifetime. Blessings and keep up the good work Blessings

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Ramlogan

[@ladypinkbagsetc.9116]

Great video. I need to replace the motor on my 237 fashion mate. I feel more confident now after seeing this!

[@harryrogers]

Thanks

[@cyncyn747]

I’ve just had a look at your channel… my goodness you’ve done some awesome things

[@harryrogers]

Oh thank you!

[@olekbendiksen]

Instructional as always 👍 I’m picking up a Singer 301 tomorrow and will attempt to do the same thing.... Hopefully the motor manufacturer is making a 220V alternative 🙏 Thanks for the insight 😀

[@robertmeadows3480]

Harry - Thank you for kindly confirming that the connector block is part of the motor casing rather as I had thought, therefore unsuited to the restoration. Kind regards, Rob.

[@PossiblePouchPete]

I've just carried out this upgrade on my old 237 as it's old motor had given up. Thank you Harry for your fantastic videos, it made the process really simple, especially the wiring of the light and knowing where to find the elusive wiring diagram 😀. Led bulb ordered too.

[@harryrogers]

That's great Pete...thanks.

[@paulrose9180]

Cheers Harry. Just placed my order - direct with the Amazon seller, BSK (Bedford) - slightly cheaper on their own website. I have two to upgrade.

[@EndingTimes0]

I just got a decent sewing machine that seems to have no problem going through medium leather but has the same for pedal problem. I wanted to do something just like this, thanks for the video!

[@ProfoundConfusion]

You're awesome! I needed to replace the broken lamp on my 201 & your video was super helpful. Thank You!

[@FranciscoToroRey]

That sewing machine makes me remember to my grandmother, she had a Singer too.

[@RonsonDalby]

The Singer factory in Brazil makes replacement motors and I don't know why they're not widely distributed,

[@elizabethclaiborne6461]

Because electrical standards are so different from country to country. Singer is not what it was. You aren’t getting a fifties motor, you’re getting a cruising on name recognition motor. The Amazon motor is fine.

[@RanaRana-gk1mv]

Hy herry i am from Pakistan .. i have also singer 201 k ...but i have lost needls ..m so worry about this..you r really Great efforts for us...Thanks n lotss of love for you💓

[@Bostish2]

I tell ya, you can be very brave at times. Just the thought of replacing the motor albeit underpowered would have me a bit apprehensive with a classic like that machine. You did an exceptional job explaining it (as usual). thank you!

[@harryrogers]

Thanks.

[@andrewhooper6705]

Must upgrade mine,have put up wih lack of speed control for long enough. Thanks for the info

[@irishmayoman]

Hi Harry. Thank you for the demo! I have purchased the same motor and now am having some difficulty connecting the lamp. My lamp has 3 cables but on looking at the motor housing I have only 2 places to connect them. Can I please have a pic of yours If possible

[@harryrogers]

I am sorry but I sold that machine.

[@Freddowasher5]

Thanks for this. Really useful instructions. Just been looking at buying this machine & I will probably have to do exactly this. Great advice.

[@ralphmuscarelle3542]

did ya do this?

[@esther8897]

Thank you sooooo very much for this video! My wires is totally rotten on my Singer 201K and I have had so much trouble figuring out how to solve this problem with almost no knowledge in electricy. Now I know what to do! Will order this kit right away. I appreciate that is posible to go slow with this pedal. I thought that you had to buy a servo motor to get that slow motion. Do you know how many W this motor is? The cable to the lamp is bad as well so I need to exchange it but I guess that will not be a problem. Just buy some 2-wire 2x1.5 mm2 cable I guess?

[@esther8897]

What belt do you recommend? I can see the orange belt does not fit.

[@Makeuplov13]

Hi I know is a couple years ago. But I just got a Singer 224 beautiful machine. But is a UK plug and motor 230 v which unfortunately I can't use in USA. So I have to get a new motor and pedal. I'm new to sewing machines. I see some motor that are clock wise but I don't know if that's what I need.

[@LollyB1963]

Hi Harry I have a singer 252 fashion mate and the top tension doesn’t want to give me a nice sew the bobbin tension looks great I believe I need a new tension spring as you mentioned I ordered one but I don’t know how to get the knob off to replace the old one. It doesn’t have the screw like yours it’s covered my a knob . I hope you can help me .. Thank you..Lolly

[@harryrogers]

Sorry I do not know..but look for online manuals...even for similar machines...such as this www.fixya.com/support/t17268952-replace_tension_assembly_singer_242

[@LollyB1963]

Thank you

[@fatemamalik6011]

Hi Harry may I know from where would I get this motor?

[@harryrogers]

Hi BSK Ltd Bedford...also on Amazon uk

[@caskwith]

Very interesting. I have an industrial sewing machine motor, something like 250W I think. One day when I can do a fixed install of a machine I will hook it up so I have REAL power lol.

[@luckycharm1668]

I would like to upgrade my 201 to an electric motor like yours, but I have a potted motor attached to mine. If I remove the potted motor, the bobbin winding is attached to it. How can I upgrade or how do I add back the bobbin winder mechanism back onto the handwheel.? Please shed a light on this issue.

[@AbdulAziz-vx3ov]

I was wondering if you could help me I need to replace my motor grease wicks I was wondering if you know where I could get them from in UK thanks

[@davidbalchin3921]

Hello Harry. Many thanks for all your videos. Since the first lockdown you and Jo Heard have taught me how to work with leather. Thank you! I have just bought a 201k Mk2 for stitching linings and pockets for my bags - lovely machine. I am about to buy a YDK replacement motor for mine. My question is. You fitted a 90w motor to yours but I see YDK also do 120w motor. Would this be suitable for the machine in that it could it be too powerful or not have the slow speed needed for precise stitching as you demonstrated? Many thanks once again and just to finish. I started looking at your videos because I fancied making a leather belt for myself. To date I have made 40 belts and 35 bags - see what you started! Kind regards and best wishes. David

[@harryrogers]

Thanks David, that's great to hear. I was not aware of the 120w motor it's probably best to have a chat with the supplier....in principle it sounds good. Very well done with all those belts and bags as well! W

[@davidbalchin3921]

@@harryrogers Thank you Harry. I will contact them. All the best David

[@davidbalchin3921]

@@harryrogers Hello Harry. An update on the YDK 120 watt motor. I have now bought and fitted this to my 201k and it works like a dream. The poor old original motor really struggled, whereas the extra torque of the replacement gives me far more control sewing leather edgings to my lining pockets. Many thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Keep the videos coming, they are great. Best regards. David

[@harryrogers]

@@davidbalchin3921 That is very good to hear, thanks David.

[@maddiehester8214]

@@davidbalchin3921 Hi David, was hoping you could provide the link to motor you purchased? I have been wanting to update my Singer mostly to sew bags and sounds like this worked well for you!

[@easydexter]

Hey Harry, just wondering if you have an update on the motor? How is it holding up after three years later? I'm considering upgrading for the added control especially at slower speeds. Great video by the way! Thanks for providing this information for us all.

[@harryrogers]

Hi I have sold this machine, but it all seemed good.

[@denisroyal5456]

excellent video and have bought and installed the new motor etc. Can you assist with my fault the shuttle system jams up and it did this before the new motor etc. I have cleaned and oiled 100% so at a loss as to a fix shame its such a grand machine and this one ie pristine still thanks.

[@lidiapavarani2454]

thank you for your good, clever videos . I've an 1897 singer15 model and looking your video it sews ! I bouth a chinese motor ( very cheap). It work good, sew well but too TOO fast. Do you think it is a problem with the reostat ? Shall I change the food pedal controller with better one ? The motor works at 220 volt. If yes could kindly show in Amazon ? Thank, thank from Italy and Merry XMas

[@harryrogers]

I don't really know, is it for the correct voltage for your region? Happy Christmas to you.

[@lidiapavarani2454]

@@harryrogers voltage is ok . The speed can grow up, but starts too fast. Bye bye and see you sono on youtube

[@LeeDunham]

Is it at all possible to replace a Singer 401a motor with one that works with European power? (60Hz 110V -> 50Hz 240V)

[@susanarodriguez7067]

Mr. Rogers. I have a vintage Singer sewing machine model 263C that had a 80 watts motor. I need to change it and in my country I found a 100 watts motor. Not much avalaible these days...I am not sure if the 100 watts motor will work on the machine as normal, or it will be working too fast.. Please help me out. Regards from Chile South America

[@harryrogers]

I have not a clue really, but I guess it would be OK. As you may be on different voltage I would ask at a shop, or find someone who does know...sorry not to be more helpful.

[@susanarodriguez7067]

Thank you Sir. We are on 220 voltage. I will keep asking, not much people around to ask, maybe at my country capital I will may have an answer. I enjoyed you video so much.

[@br31woodlands69]

I have a Belvedere Adler 190. Mr. Rogers, you think I can convert that to a leather sewing machine with this upgrade you show or have to go to a servo motor? Thank you for your videos.

[@tinasimonsen5872]

Hello love your video.... I have recently inherited an old singer 306...... My question is.... Will it fit on that machine.... Regards Tina Simonsen 🇩🇰

[@harryrogers]

I think so, as it's generic to most old BAK motorised Singers, but I would check with the shop to be sure.

[@nancymiller-u4h]

Thanks! Now I’m going to try this on my Pfaff 130

[@carolinemccann4121]

Thank you! I had to replace the motor on my pinnock threadmaster (turns out the new motor is the exact same as yours!) this saved me a LOT of confusion!

[@frankclack9096]

What is the thread bolt size on the machine 1/4 NC bolt is not a tight fit, bit loose .I have a motor and bracket from the donor machine

[@michaelshannon2977]

Hi I see when you did the up grade on the motor the new motor came with a pully wheel how can I remove the pully on my 201k 1957 brown and cream model as the screw in the pully is removed pully won't move motor casing brakalite any advise would be helpful Michael

[@philipslater5015]

Try plenty of release fluid. If that fails, you could try supporting the pulley from behind and use a parallel punch to tap the shaft through. If that fails and you want to preserve the pulley, you will have to use a small gear puller or make something up. If it breaks, don't despair as much better new pullies are available, toothed or plain with 1/4" bore for original motors or 6-mm for newer ones, all in unbreakable turned aluminium.

[@michaelsheurs7592]

Im curious, does more power mean a stronger machine in its punch through heavy material or faster in terms of stitches per minute.

[@harryrogers]

More punching power.

[@msheurs]

Harry Rogers thank you :) I have a 15-91 potted motor direct gear machine and I recently got a 15-90 and I ordered a 150 watts motor. Excited to see the difference between the two

[@annwarren4171]

Hello, Thank you for a useful video. I have a Singer 99k. Will this upgrade be suitable for this model?, as the power to the foot pedal and motor is wired directly into the machine?

[@harryrogers]

Hi I am sorry but I don't know...probably not?

[@KeniloTube]

Hello Harry, I enjoyed watching your video and it has given me some thoughts to possibly replacing all the motors on my restoration machines, although the price for each one would now be £60. One question regarding your hydraulic press in the back of your shots. Did you construct it yourself or was it a purchase? Thanks.

[@harryrogers]

Hello Ken...wow that's gone up a lot in price...the red press is a Sealy garage press that I adapted, it worked fine but was slow for production work.

[@KeniloTube]

@@harryrogers Hello again Harry, thank you for this information, could I ask one other thing please? Where did you buy your metal precession oiler (click type) you used in your video?

[@mfblackburn5448]

Thank you Harry. Great clear video well presented.

[@carolinemaybe1]

Hi, I just been given my third old sewing machine to restore. It's a Jones CBD. The original motor was removed and replaced with a Singer motor, pedal and light. The original wire from inside the machine was disconnect but is still there. The machine only runs when you switch the light on! Can a new motor be connected to the old wires or are all new motors sealed? Wonder if you or someone could help please

[@esther8897]

Hey Harry! I have a Singer 431G. It is working well except it almost impossible to sew in a slow motion, it goes from 0 to 100 very fast. I did open up the Bakelite foot pedal to fix this (some of the carbon discs where missing), but I don't know if it helped much. Could it be something wrong with the motor or should I buy a new foot pedal?

[@harryrogers]

I suspect a new pedal might help, but I am not a mechanic. I found the new motor and pedal bought for my machine gave far more control. I no longer have that machine.

[@esther8897]

@@harryrogers Thank you! I think so too. I will give it a try. :)

[@BeachsideHank]

Be advised you can no longer bake a batch of muffins now that the LED lamp is installed.☺

[@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs]

Do the electronically controlled motors maintain more torque at lower speeds than the old motor? Or is the motor basically the same, just with better speed control?

[@SteveValentineUK]

Harry, I have been looking to fit an electronic pedal to my Singer 306K which is fitted with a YDK 90w motor but I cannot find anyone selling them, all the ones I have seen on eBay etc are the one carbon disc type design. Are you able to confirm yours is electronic because it looks exactly like my existing one which I am presuming came with the motor. I am a bit confused being that no one I have found describes the replacement YDK Motor/Pedal kit as having an electronic pedal.Have you got a photo of the inside of your pedal with the bottom cover removed. My one seems to have very poor low speed control, it is too sensitive.The interior of the YDK foot control has the 2 carbon disc areas etc just like an old Singer one, these are mounted in a white ceramic block. I would be pleased to hear what you find out.

[@harryrogers]

I got mine from Bedford Sewimg machines...I was told its electronic...and is very much better than the old Singer...but perhaps its carbon after all????

[@gustavzollernmakinen1516]

Your machine is so beautiful ! After seeing your video i want to upgrade my mom's machine, i have a small question, the current actually goes to the bulb without the foot control pressing ??? counter intuitive isn't it ??

[@harryrogers]

Hi I think it's so that you can line the fabric up prior to stitching.

[@ifonlyiwerebelgian]

Thanks again for this video. My machine now has so much more control!! One question though. I'm finding I have to run the upper thread tension at 9 to get a hf decent stitch. The bottom thread just bunches up otherwise. I'm guessing the bobbin tension is out. Any ideas on how to adjust it?

[@harryrogers]

Sorry but I am not familiar with that set up, perhaps someone here can help.

[@azzamody]

Hi Harry , can you advise what maximum leather thickness this seeing machine can handle , does it pinch through veg tan

[@equitime77]

Thanks for this video! I need more slow control on my 327k. I'm wondering if I could do this conversion on that machine. There's nothing wrong with the motor it has apart from there isn't enough speed control.

[@BenjaminSnow-su7jv]

If there's nothing wrong with the motor,maybe you could,if you know how,wire a new electronic pedal. Problem solved, although you might have already replaced the whole lot. However, this might be a great solution for those who are happy with their motors and just want better, more precise speed control.

[@ninobrn00]

How well has this motor lasted over the years?

[@harryrogers]

I have sold the machine...it seemed well made.

[@labrat7357]

Another reason is just for the fun of it. I would like to get a 201 and put it into a table with a small 350 watt servo motor (disturbed maniacal laughter in the back ground). All the best.

[@gullraza4033]

Please make a same video for singer 185 k

[@automotivedyi1984]

Thank you ❤

[@luckycharm1668]

Do you have to lower the feed dog to move so freely?

[@harryrogers]

I did not on this one...I do on my Oekaki for free motion embroidery though.

[@luckycharm1668]

@@harryrogers Awesome. Thank you for the quick reply.

[@erikneek]

Hi Harry! Your video made me buy a mint (black) 201K m2. :-) I'm converting it from a treadle (in a cabinet) to a electrical version using your Amazon-link. Question: What size belt would probably fit? Greetings from THe Netherlands, Erik

[@harryrogers]

Hi Erik, I used one of the generic bands that seem to fit most old domestic Singers with the motor mounted behind the machine and I have had no problems with it...sounds like a very nice machine. Rgds Harry

[@sruss9114]

Harry, can you please tell me if, where the belt connects, your new motor turns clockwise or anti-clockwise? I am in New Zealand and my original 1948 201K motor turns anti-clockwise. I want to order the replacement motor set to convert from the existing annoying knee control.

[@harryrogers]

Mine is anti clockwise.....most are as thats the way domestic machines usually work...but I know some are not, so best to ask the vendor.

[@sruss9114]

Harry Rogers I took a punt and ordered one from China on ebay. Metal black bolt on motor and foot control delivered for $36NZ. Works perfectly.

[@3000waterman]

Are you still getting this conversation Harry? Such a kit would make sewing leather a breeze.

[@cristinatorres7318]

I just have a question. Would the motor and pedal you fitted onto your Singer be compatible with a dual voltage vintage Bernina Record 730 whose original motor specs are 75/32 W and 0,72 Amp, and 45/15 W and 0,54 Amp?

[@harryrogers]

I am sorry I do not know.

[@smallfootprint2961]

Another very interesting video. Nice machine.

[@robertmeadows3480]

YDK replacement motor question: can anyone kindly advise if the connector block below the motor bracket is separate from the motor body and could therefore be rewired/re-positioned? Sales photos. do not show this clearly.

[@harryrogers]

Hi Robert - sorry I no longer have this machine...freeze the video at 4.07.....looks like its part of the body.

[@terryclark7864]

Hello Harry, I know you posted this a while ago, but are you still happy with it? I was thinking of doing the same upgrade. Thanks . All the best. T

[@harryrogers]

It worked very well...I have since sold the machine.

[@nadhisofe3836]

Hi harry, can you tell me what is carbon spring.

[@maowiedumangas237]

Does your sewing machine motor has 220 volts?

[@Leti1971]

Can a Pffaff 130 be upgraded to a industrial servo motor?

[@harryrogers]

It will drive the machine, but as I understand it, it is not an industrial machine so presumably it will not take thick materials etc. So is it worth it?

[@morphmorpheus9644]

Harry been watching your vids ,you are amazing,i have learnt alot a big thank you ,keep doing it

[@harryrogers]

Mark Daniels Thanks Mark

[@Bodragon]

The problem you've got with your old "rheostat" pedal, is not the carbon pile rheostat itself but rather the associated capacitors. The original capacitors are almost certainly "gone" and this causes, exactly the problem you are experiencing. Change these out for new and problem solved. > PS is quite an easy job but does involve soldering. >

[@daveboyd8113]

I am in NZ and have today scored a machine the same as yours- goes v/well. Can you give me the supplier name of the motor and foot peddle as I would like to get it upgraded. Mine is in prime condition and paid $40 nz dollars.- about $20- thanks- dave

[@harryrogers]

Great...and please see the links in the description...thanks.

[@slawekl8]

Thank you for the video. I bought the same motor on the ebay two years ago, belt did not fit as well, foot pedal unfortunately gets hot like the old ones do, but overall it was worth upgrading, it is a bit risky to use motor which is 60 years old.

[@RonsonDalby]

I had the eBay seller replace that motor 3 times before I got one that worked.

[@lelolek]

hahaha life is risky, get used to it. If you want to buy robust vintage gear get the risk and don't cry. You better ask electrican to refurbish and rewire your old Singer motor. Buying fatal quality chinesse "safe" replacement erzac engine doesn't solve your safety problem, you know? hahaha

[@shaunm2208]

Harry is this machine good for leather

[@harryrogers]

It will handle very light leather for making things...not ideal, but gets you started.

[@grahammartin6140]

Hello I have the Singer 320K do you feel this will work for this

[@harryrogers]

I don't see why not if your motor is a standard singer motor for domestic machines....Bedford Sewing Machines UK can advise.

[@grahammartin6140]

@@harryrogers Thank you do they have a phone number

[@harryrogers]

@@grahammartin6140 web?

[@sunogden6660]

Just replaced the motor. Thanks a lot

[@tullochgorum6323]

Be careful to adjust the belt tension correctly. Too tight and it will choke the machine. Too loose and you don't get the full benefit of the additional power.

[@anthonyhough1538]

Excellent - thanks very much

[@Bodragon]

Harry! What have you done with your old pedal? Do you want to sell it ? >

[@extraextrareadallaboutitth8460]

Does it matter the wattage

[@mikeboone4425]

I think better than pretty good fantastic. happy trails

[@afrakhanmayana5313]

are u still working with singer 133k8.I want to buy a singer cylindrical arm industrial machine.I am learning to make boxing gear and some shoe uppers.Can u recommend me any online dealer in uk from where I can buy.

[@harryrogers]

Afra khan Mayana Hi no I no longer have that machine. I have bought from Tysew Industrial Sewing and found them helpful.

[@Josh_Luijsterburg]

A good one Harry 👍👍👍👍

[@angelarobinson7717]

could I put a motor onto a singer sewing machine, that has not had a motor before??

[@harryrogers]

Yes you usually can.

[@jonathaniball7281]

Wanting to upgrade a motor for a Pinnock sewing machine i acquired.Anybody: Is there anything to note about wiring for reverse direction, or will that not be possible?

[@TheMrfont]

Please can you tell me the size of the belts this machine use. please

[@harryrogers]

Hi I just used a flexible band ...universal for machines like this.

[@TheMrfont]

Harry Rogers did you buy it on AliExpress ?

[@ireland66613]

Thank you for the info and demonstration very cool KZbin channel

[@joeselsbeth]

Great videos Harry, you made me start making small leather work :) What is a good leather tool webshop in the uk? Cheers Joës

[@harryrogers]

joeselsbeth Hi Joe's.. .that's great. The Identity Store is worth looking at online...always very helpful. I buy some tools off EBay as well.

[@joeselsbeth]

Harry Rogers thanks :)

[@DinkyDoughnut]

Good Man !!!!!

[@camtono743]

What motor is that? Can you tell me the specs?

[@bigDbigDbigD]

I am confused. I thought the singer 201 was gear drive? help?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

The 201-2 is. The one in this video is a 201K, which is slightly different and is belt-driven.

[@harryrogers]

bigDbigDbigD This is the UK version...K for Kilbowie Scotland...and had belt drive.

[@bigDbigDbigD]

Harry. You recommended the singer 201 as a good beginners machine. Which were you recommending. Belt or geat drive?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hey there - I know you weren't asking me, and I apologize for jumping in here. Not trying to poach viewers, and if Harry gets a chance to reply to your question, you should listen to him. That said, I'd like to offer my opinion. The 201 machines are all very, very good. I'd give a slight nod to the gear driven machines (no belt to slip, break or adjust), although upgrading the motor as in this video would definitely be a very different job. If you're interested in sewing light leather, a 201 of either flavor would probably be fine - as would many vintage sewing machines. 201s can be had at very reasonable prices, but they are generally more expensive than other, similar vintage machines (unless you get lucky and find a seller who doesn't know what it is). I have a video on my channel called "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines." If you're new to sewing in general, you might find some useful information there. (And Harry, thanks for another great video!)

[@robinturner2300]

thejasonofalltrades indeed so... I paid £5 for my 201k with table style cabinet from a local flea market. It wouldn't move when I bought it but five minutes with the oil can and wd40 and it runs and looks like new. It's hardly been used and is the best straight stitch I've ever seen. It even came with almost all of the attachments singer made.

[@ArgentiLuna]

Perhaps if you had of bolted the motor slightly higher the belt would have sitted?

[@ddiuni9964]

Is it 220V?

[@harryrogers]

Mine was as it's UK standard here.

[@alisonaussie4995]

The belt is for a vintage Janome.

[@OriginalFinnish22]

Sorry but you may have given some false information about that pedal, just took mine open and it's a rheostat model. Better than the old and worn ones thou.

[@michaelw5071]

Very helpful, thank you.

[@nbrowne73]

I did the same conversion and my new belt was too small too !!!.

[@BioStuff415]

box opening at 2:20