Using an $25 Gotek floppy emulator in place of a 8" floppy drive

[@Dinnye01]

Adrian, don't worry about taking the plastic stiff wrong. We are all here for the electronics. Everything else is just a bonus!

[@brookerobertson2951]

He need to apply thermal paste in next video to really get the comment section going… lol

[@fattomandeibu]

Yeah, my Amiga 500 is a permanent "fake tan" orange colour now, and IMO, that's just character. It shows it's had a good 30 years.

[@TechBench]

The series is not "dragging on" ... I'm eagerly awaiting the next installment of the season! 🙂

[@mvickers03]

Yes! I’m here in 2023 and just watched them all in the same day. Thoroughly enjoyed it. You learn a bit more every video you watch, regardless of if it’s out of your skill set.

[@twocvbloke]

The machine deciding to conk out at the end is a perfect example of Sod's Law, anything that can go wrong will go wrong, especially after you've put it all back together after doing major repair work... :P

[@Frank-Thoresen]

@@laserhawk64 "Murphy’s Law is a humorous American axiom that states anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. The term Murphy’s Law was coined in the early 1950s during G-force tests by the American Air Force. One version of the story says that an aerospace engineer named Captain Edward A. Murphy installed a key sensor backwards, skewing the test results. Another version of the story states that Captain Murphy did no such thing, that the reason he is associated with Murphy’s Law is that he frequently expressed the idea that anything that can go wrong will go wrong. Eventually, other members of the team began to refer to this sentiment as Murphy’s Law. A third version of the story comes from John Glenn, stating that Murphy was a character in Navy educational cartoons cast as an incompetent mechanic, leading to the idea of Murphy’s Law. Murphy’s Law is by far the most popular of the humorous laws dealing with things that go wrong. Sod’s Law is a British axiom that is somewhat similar to Murphy’s Law, but with a twist. Sod’s Law carries a sense of being mocked by fate. Sod’s Law is related to the idea of the unlucky sod, an average person who has bad luck. Sod’s Law first appears in the 1970s. Finagle’s Law is Murphy’s Law with an addendum, it states that anything that can go wrong will, and at the worst possible time. The term Finagle’s Law was coined by John Campbell Jr., the editor of Astounding Science Fiction in the 1940s through 1960s."

[@samuelcolvin4994]

There's one I've heard that goes: "anything that can go wrong will.... Usually at the worst possible time," "BUT if you wait long enough it'll go away...... Having done it's damage...... And if it was bad it will be back". I think this last one is from the late '70s.

[@dungeonseeker3087]

You broke the cardinal rule of tech, you put the case back together before you tested anything. The case curse strikes again 😂

[@desiv1170]

Another great feature of the FlashFloppy firmware is that if you manage to install your cable the wrong way around, it will display RIB (for Ribbon; it can look like R16) rather than F-F to let you know! How do I know that?? Um.. er. I um... read about it online... Yeah, that's it... ;-)

[@robertbruce7686]

Yeah right (wink)

[@Calphool222]

I restore TRS 80 machines. I've done several full restores on Model 1s, Model 3s, and Model 4s. I haven't had anybody ask me to restore a Model II/16, but if the other three systems are any indication, TRS-80s are basically just like this. You fix one thing, and something else breaks. So you fix that, and something else breaks. When you restore a TRS-80, the algorithm seems to be: 1) Try to boot and observe symptoms. 2) Take apart, get a schematic, identify likely candidates for problems, replace components. 3) Go back to step 1. This loop continues until *eventually* the problems are sorted and you can break out of step 1. The disk drives in particular seem *super* finicky. Once you get one working, you just automatically start devising all kinds of voodoo superstitions and behaviors hoping to keep it working.

[@lohphat]

I have my Mod I from Dec 1979 w/KB( +LC mod), Expansion interface, 4x floppy drives, and "Line Printer". I don't dare plug it in as it hasn't been powered since 1988 or so. What's a ballpark for getting it back running?

[@8bitwiz_]

@@lohphat If I tried to get mine running again, I'd probably worry more about the EI. I didn't have one of the "special" cables, but when I stuffed it with 32K of RAM back in the day, I had to drop the power supply voltage to get it to work properly! (I don't remember exactly, maybe 4.5 or 4.75 volts?) Displaying the EI memory with DOS DEBUG was like looking at a random number generator when the power supply was set to 5.0 volts. I'd rather just have a mini-EI with static RAM and port emulation. What I actually did was catweasel all my floppies around 2008, and went full emulation.

[@redace001]

Got any links to good sites for Model Is? I have all the parts Adrian used, (flash floppy/gotek), I just need some guidance on conencting it all up ,and what images to use to get her going again.

[@brentboswell1294]

As I recall, on the silver TRS-80 cases, it's silver spray paint on top of ABS plastic. That's one of the reasons that Tandy moved the entire lineup to ivory ABS plastic. The color on the ivory cases was impregnated into the plastic, and didn't scratch the paint off when you moved things over the case, as they got lots of complaints about the finish getting scratched from consumers.

[@jeffreyphipps1507]

My guess is that one of the "diagnostics" put a bad value in parallel/serial ports. It might take a few hours for the machine in off state to drop the wonky value.

[@jk180]

Great stuff so far Adrian. This machine is a survivor (barely), and it makes me happy to see another one saved from the landfill/recycle center. I know you'll figure it out. I had an older TRS-80 asa kid for my first home computer. Keey doing great stuff my friend.

[@CherryKirktown]

The silvery paint on the TRS computers was very thin. It would wear quickly. Radio Shack sold spray cans of the stuff for touch ups and refinishes. We just got used to seeing the flat gray plastic underneath.

[@mvickers03]

I watched this whole series in a day! I am not glad it’s over! I will probably watch it again in a few years. Honestly, it’s so great that you talk a lot. Some people go into themselves when working, but your videos have so much information. Thanks for all you do. Might get me on the patreon soon

[@vwfanatic2390]

There a lot of parallels between salvaging a car’s finish and the finish on some old tech, it’s never going to be perfect, and it shouldn’t be. It should show it’s age honestly, without being just dirty. Great job, neat to see an old Trash80 looking so great, and still working.

[@alexandermaasland3494]

As usual I loved this work you did on this machine :) keep it up Adrian! Hopefully we get to see some working software on this machine in the near future

[@timbald]

Discovered you by accident, searching for 8" retro Floppy drives. I used to use TRSDOS machines a bit in my teens at the local Tandy store (UK) so this was been fascinating to watch! Hope you can diagnose the final faults.

[@burnte]

You have bench PSUs, so you could replate connectors with nickel EASILY right there on your bench. It's INCREDIBLY easy, just put in a fan for ventilation when you plate and don't sit there, it takes only a little time and you'd have brand new looking connectors. It's a lot easier than it sounds and people get very impressed with your results. :D

[@burnte]

@@lucasrem1870 if his desire is to restore the classic computer, then running an emulator is not a solution.

[@SundanceCody2006]

This machine really needs to be displayed alongside a before picture whenever it's completely buttoned up! Absolutely amazing work so far!

[@papafrank7094]

Two tools I use to refurbish cases are my Dremel with buffing pads and an airbrush setup. The most difficult part of using the airbrush is getting the exact color to use and proper cleaning of the case.

[@richardwernst]

re: back panel paint/rust - you can buy (auto parts store if not hardware store) primer that's also a filler. It's just a really thick primer (for after rust converter?) you can apply to fill in those rust pits. Can even use more than one coat if necessary, then sand smooth. Or, for fairly deep pits, you can buy spot putty in a tube (like REALLY thick primer), then sand that down before final paint.

[@Potts1966]

loving the series so far.. Keep producing model II content please.

[@fensoxx]

Thanks for not giving up on it. Even if it’s many dozens of videos from now it will be nice to see it working well at some point.

[@questionablecommands9423]

12:59 It's moments like these where I've learned the _hard_ way that I need to bust out the mantra, "Don't be lazy, Alastair." and do the disassembly so I can put it together right. Every time I try to take a shortcut, it ends up being more hassle than if I did it the long way, I get cranky in the process, and I often break something as a result of getting cranky.

[@ray73864]

I once used an old '90s server case as a daily driver for my computer, since I needed a new case with more storage spaces in it. But to use that case, I needed a new IDE cable, after much searching, I found an obscure computer shop about 30mins from me that had a 1.2metre long IDE cable which was the perfect length to do what I needed :P

[@paulravitsky2898]

The solenoid only lifts the head load pad from the floppy. The head is still in contact with the floppy and the power on/off pulses can still "write" to the disk. If the head load pad is worn or missing the drive may have issues reading the floppy although the FDC would usually retry several times. I suspect possible dirty contacts on the backplane. We used a pink pencil eraser to burnish the card contacts followed up with deoxit on the card edge and the socket. The only "special" tool we used was an Xcelite 18" magnetic 1/4' nut driver. Nice job!

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

I wish I could remember the specifics, but I remember back in the 80's someone figured out that a near-perfect match for touching up scratches was a Mercedes-Benz silver color code.

[@robr7116]

I used GM 64 on several Mod III's (same color as II's I believe)

[@parkeerdarkeer]

Gotta love when you wake up to new Adrian video

[@digihorse6730]

Regarding using tape to get screws in and out of awkward places. In the UK a product called BluTack can be purchased which is for sticking things temporarily. `I use that it stick on the end of the screwdriver or mini spanner to hold the small bits.

[@michaelelsy2209]

Been really enjoying this series.

[@jgthhcfbgyujvfr6025]

as a professional automotive refinisher i would sand out scrathes with 500 grit and prime it, sand it smooth with 800 grit and spray it very light 4-5 times with a silver rattle can and let it dry completly between coats...

[@rmcdudmk212]

I was thinking the same thing 👍

[@adilsongoliveira]

So do I. I think repaint would be easier and give a more consistent result.

[@XylaIX]

MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) works way better for welding ABS than acetone. It's a bit harder to find and more difficult to work with (more toxic, best to use outdoors), but the results are well worth it. It won't do that weird thing with the whiteness and cracking of that tab you tried to weld, it'll just liquify the plastic at the joint and reconstitute as contiguous solid plastic.

[@MrBrianms]

So close to completion. Brilliant looking machine. Word processing, Calculating spreadsheet and a Database. Then, someone had a bright idea they made a game. Thanks.

[@OscarSommerbo]

You inspired me to get a few cheap OLED displays to replace some old LCD displays when you used the chip tester after upgrading it.

[@wb8cxo]

You're still my retro computer hero!

[@physnoct]

For the rust residues, I would try some vinegar or CLR product.

[@bitoxic]

Adrian, this has been a very interesting project... the gotek at the end was a great idea and glad you got it working! Lets hope none of the screws or washers popped off shortening an IC thats causing the keyboard to go haywire! 😁👍

[@VICTORYOVERNEPTUNE]

Definitely enjoying this series.

[@shortymtb]

So glad I read the description before posting "wasn't this $18 gotek when it was posted?" 😁😁

[@fgaviator]

Ha, I can certainly relate. Had so many devices and machines which I worked on, and then, once I though I was done and all was good: something else failed. Let's start trouble shooting all over again. Good luck! Looking forward to part n+1! :)

[@minombredepila1580]

Learned a lot with this video. Thanks Adrian !!!

[@akaJughead]

ABS plastic is used in some Gundam model kits, and is used in the HG Action Bases in particular. I've harvested several bags of scrap ABS from the the runners that are left over after you assemble the model kits. This is a good source of new scrap ABS. The ABS runners are labeled which makes it easy to distinguish them from polystyrene runners.

[@stevejohnson1685]

Haven't seen 8" floppy drives since working on an "big blue" Intellec system writing PL/M code for Multibus SBCs in 1980. Thunk!

[@JohnC5]

just love your channel, especially the haribo reviews 😅 also i admire your electronics knowledge, i am learning a lot 👍

[@BloodAsp]

As someone who works with DB-25 serial ports every day, I know your entire pain in dealing with those small nuts. For some of the machines I work with, I designed a specific jig to retain the nuts, but every manufacturer likes to have different designs, so more often than not I end up just relying on nimble hands.

[@tarajoe07]

Got me one of these today! Keyboard doesn't work. But it fully boots to a floppy! I think that's a miracle in of itself.

[@8bitwiz_]

About opening the doors when power cycling, I can see why that might not be a problem with 8" floppies that have a head load solenoid, but I zapped more than a few disks on my Model I by power cycling with a drive door closed. Basically it sends a pulse through the drive cable, you'll see the select light go on, and it also (presumably) puts a spike of power through the head, which zaps whatever is right under it, putting a soft error on the disk. I have no idea what happened with the keyboard at the end, though.

[@solarbirdyz]

You have a lot more patience than I would for this thing, honestly, I'd've wanted to launch it into space right about now xD xD xD - but it's entertaining to watch, so fingers crossed you can find what's gone wrong _this_ time!

[@sikedipuuhja7376]

Adrian, you should have known: the trs80 and the c64 are not compatible. No wonder the stud you improvised snapped off,

[@Arcadenut1]

If you need replacement parts, you can always 3D print using ABS. Might give you better results than patching in old broken parts.

[@TheRealColBosch]

How would 3D printing the part prevent the glue from failing?

[@Arcadenut1]

@@TheRealColBosch Never said it would. My point was that he doesn't need to use scraps of old computers to fix something. He could print something that would be custom to what ever he is fixing and might work better as it would fit better.

[@kaitlyn__L]

@@Arcadenut1 I think he likes having a use for old broken computer case parts though, else he wouldn’t collect them when he already had a printer. Slash maybe his printer is one of those ones which does ABS poorly (I had only a passing interest in FDM, the UV resin ones are the ones I follow now, so I don’t know if that’s really a real limitation or not anymore.)

[@Quickened1]

@@TheRealColBosch he didn't use glue! Basically, he fuses the parts using acetone. The problem may be from using different abs plastics, that possibly have slightly different melt points...

[@haraldhimmel5687]

@@TheRealColBosch He didnt glue it, he fused it. And at least partially, the fused parts snapped. For the other parts it probably would have been best to sand and wipe the surfaces he intends to fuse.

[@mogwaay]

Ah Ardian, you were so close to getting your worktop back 🤣 you'll crack it next time, it's looking great and really interesting to see this machine as I knew nothing about it!

[@dl8cy]

How long was teh duration of the time-lapse part? 2 hours?

[@Pathos312]

toothbrush the grill --- btw this sort of reminds me of the first time someone is learning to break into a laptop and there's a bunch of screws left over when they go to reassemble. ;) eff putting a TRS-80 back together, props for that!

[@thunderbeam9166]

Adrian, the reset switch looks like a modified off the shelf slide switch, I bet you could find either a semi close match or the parts to repair it at Surplus Sales of Nebraska, they have a boatload of NOS switches of all different flavors!

[@rwdplz1]

Reminds me of working on early 90's Macintoshes: Handle with care, or plastic pieces just snap off

[@lightmagick]

I recently did a light restoration of a Magnavox Odyssey II for a neighbor and had to repaint the metallic silvery paint and found a decent matching spray paint, the color was just slightly not dark enough but it came out pretty good.

[@brianv2871]

What was that paint? Was it a standard brand spray paint you can get from a store? Would be interesting to know.

[@erickvond6825]

"Special set of tools." Do yourself a favor next time you go to remove something like that. Put a piece of masking tape over the nut and washer. Then you can safely remove the screw with no fear of losing the other hardware. I've been working on things for decades. This is a little trick I picked up to save myself a lot of frustration later. Thanks for the great videos. I'm subscribed on both channels.

[@kaitlyn__L]

I loved the time lapse cleaning sequence. Oh no! A cliffhanger caused by the machine and not by you! One always has to wonder if the diagnostics somehow upset a marginal component, though of course there’s never any real way to know… Still, the screen looks great and the floppy drive sounds great. Using the external floppy port with a Gotek is such a good idea!

[@mvevitsis]

On rusted parts like that I don't bother with rust converters or paints. I take it straight to the sandblasting/powdercoating shop and let them handle it. Always comes out perfectly smooth.

[@robfl07]

If you want to skip all the case cleaning and broken tab drama and get right to the drive emulator as in the video’s title.. jump to 19:35

[@JustinEmlay]

Random internet cleaning tip - The best thing I ever came across to clean paint off a vehicle (paint transferred from something else like being in an accident)....brake cleaner! Do not spray on vehicle. Spray lightly on a rag and very quickly rub the paint off then fully wash off the area. If you rub too long you'll eat all the way through to your own paint. With that said, I wonder what it could do for computer stuff that has foreign material transfered onto it.

[@laloramos]

wonderful work, thank you for the video

[@cardboardboxification]

Most plastic used is ABS and the black ABS glue melts it back together

[@frankowalker4662]

Oh crap, So close. Looking forward to the next part.

[@ulerhond]

Hey Adrian! I'm a huge fan of the Tandy line of computers, specifically the Model I/II/III/IV systems and the colour computer. I've done some retrofitting of a TRS-80 Model 4 to a modern system, and I'm doing the same for the Model III shell that I picked up a few months ago. The Model III case was in worse shape than your Model II case, so I ended up cleaning it and then repainting it to a very close matching silver paint. While I can't show you before & after pictures here, I can suggest doing the same thing with your Model II if you find the paint is just too far gone. Keep up the good work!

[@EddieSheffield]

Would you share what paint you used? I have a Coco 1 and a Model 1 that both need paint touchups. Tho I may leave the Coco alone - it was my first computer when I was a kid and I'm torn between restoring it and leaving the patina. The paint is completely gone where my hands rested while typing. But the Model 1 doesn't have much sentimental value and fixing it up it mostly just for fun.

[@ulerhond]

Absolutely! The paint I used is from SCA - Multi-Purpose Acrylic Silver Paint, PN: 288516

[@rodhester2166]

wish there was a video of that computer being assembled in the factory.. great video..

[@guillaumegaudin694]

Meguiar's paint protect ! I bought a bottle of it back in 2015-2016 when it first came out, it's still not empty, very economic, a little goes a long way, lasts fairly long, does great on faded black plastics. I like that stuff very much.

[@anatolbaskak]

actually you need a twist - but a different one, lines 10 and 12 swapped iirc - IF using gotek as 1st drive. that’s how it works with my betadisk interface for zx spectrum, which is shugart standard. the 2nd drive is connected per your explanation.

[@ObiWanBillKenobi]

Don't forget to do a full before and after comparison montage when you finish this video series!

[@Dukefazon]

I think you need a screw retriever, you know, a long rod with a magnet at the end to help you with screws and washers you might drop in hard to reach places. You do have 2 more 8inch floppy drives that you could have hooked up to your PC setup to create more disks if needed, but it's nice to see how you hooked up the gotek and see it working. What the hell happened at the end? Maybe something inside the keyboard got messed up or on the computer side the part that talks to the keyboard. No worries, I just re-watched the whole series up to the previous episode last week to catch up on the events, it's so satisfying to see this thing coming back to life!

[@Shamino0]

I remember reading in Radio Shack catalogs that they sold a 5MB hard drive (a giant 12" monstrosity) for the II/12/16 series of computers. I don't know if it used that floppy controller port or if it used a new port via an additional card in the cage. If you ever run across one of these (or even just information about them), it would be a great addition to this series. I haven't yet gotten all the way through the series, but if you haven't already mentioned it, I find it interesting that the II/12/16 systems could actually run UNIX. Radio Shack sold "Xenix" for these. I assume the hard drive expansion and lots of memory expansion was required for that. I also remember reading (in the catalogs) that you could connect serial terminals to each of the serial ports and let three users all log in at once. Way way ahead of its time, and incredibly impressive for a Z80-based computer. (Correction: It seems that Xenix requires the 68000 processor board. I think that was an option in the II/12 but was standard in the 16. Still way ahead of its time, but something you won't be able to try out on your II as it currently exists.)

[@alexandrecouture2462]

This machine certainly received a lot of love from Adrian. I hope it will end up being fine!

[@PeteWord]

Thanks for the great video Adrian! I do think the machine is suffering from overload or underload ... how will you probe? I look forward to finding out. Really enjoying the series!

[@splatmanhooha4264]

Meguiars is a great make for paint, well regarded in the car world, good choice

[@runderwo]

13:00 Why not use a telescoping magnet to catch or rescue the parts that drop?

[@paulwratt]

Dragging on is fine, it reflects real world senarios. Unless you are a (in this case, a TRS80) fanatic, its also fine to break up these sort of video series. Variety is the spice of life (or so they say). Keep plugging away at this one, it will be worth it in the end, and it also supplies more specific solutions for those trying to do research or diagnostics in the future.

[@estebanpaunero91]

Great wort! Im waiting to the next part!

[@billfruge25]

SO CLOSE! Don't give up! :D

[@tigheklory]

This is not a criticism, but you might find that Meguiar's Cleaner Wax Paste, this is less abrasive than the Scratch X and is good to just remove the oxidation.

[@EmperorKonstantine01]

Some of These machines can be a Nightmare to repair, I think the historical passion to restore one drives us to get the result we desire. longest I ever spent was repairing an early IBM machine that "Supposedly" had one dead thing, which lead to to numerous other problems. Had me going insane for 6 months on and off.

[@cheater00]

Regarding the switch, this is a similar construction to a lamp switch. Get one of those lamp switches that go on the lamp cord, disassemble it, and see if you can re-use the spring.

[@jadall77]

My Dad had at least three of these with I think a 15 mb hard drive and at least a 2 floppy external thing. Probably connect multiple computers to the hard drive as I think the set up had only 1 hard drive. but a floppy in each computer and a double floppy and hard drive could do a lot of work. And knowing my Dad he would have had some extra memory modules. That tandy 100 portable we had I think it was 172,000 bytes on the thing I"ve never seen one over 32k in videos. FINAL EDIT. He might STILL be using the printer he got with this setup. probably like 11 inch wide white and green with the holes on the sides that you tear off. perfect for printing out database files. He was using them in the early 2000's still (just the printer. )

[@ctb___]

I’ve also used ScratchX with good success on my car but I wonder if Novus 1-2-3 plastic polish would work too? Just a thought, but good job!

[@chadhartsees]

"Wow, they don't make them like this anymore!"

[@petenielsen6683]

My brother-in-law interviewed a former engineer for Tandy as an applicant for a job at the circuit board company where he works. In the course of the conversation the engineer called the entire line trash 80s and said they would not have been if they had been able to spend more to make them. But in the 1980s the computers would have to have been priced higher than the target consumer would be willing to pay.

[@kencreten7308]

Awsome vid, thanks.

[@mikeuk666]

Spoiler

[@kencreten7308]

@@mikeuk666 Oh, crap. Didn't think. Sorry.

[@kencreten7308]

@@mikeuk666 Changed my response. Thanks for the call out.

[@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse]

You have done an excellent job on the restoration. Maybe something is overheating when you loaded the diagnostics, causing the corruption? Just a thought, are there any tin whiskers on the solder joints?

[@SidneyCritic]

I bought 4off old 3rd-4th gen Intel motherboards recently, and they all failed after a few heat cycles. Not that I know, I wonder if old chips absorb moisture when left for a long time and it's the first few heat cycle kills them, ie, moisture expanding and popping chips.

[@joshhiner729]

Oof. Really sorry the unit malfunctioned after all that work. Cant wait to see the repair video but that must have been a deflating moment. Ive been there before.

[@Peter-rt3tu]

Hi Adrian, could there be a problem with this A3-line, some sort of short or too low impedance, that eats CPUs?

[@TheDarkelvenangel]

Not sure if someone mentioned this but the gotek is externally powered and when you power off the machine you aren't powering off that drive you could be back powering something unintentionally and that's causing your problem.

[@horusfalcon]

As much as I like the Z80 as a CPU, I've gotta say this Model II has given you a merry chase so far. User User seems to have the right of it - more cranky than a cheap compact car (and about as much fun to work on, too, from the look of it). Your persistence has paid off so far, but if you reach the point where it's not a good sort of challenge (i.e., it's not fun) anymore, take a little break from it and come back when you feel like it. We'll be here when you decide to keep going on this. Knowing you, I'm sure you will have plenty of other stuff to do that needs doing.

[@Croaker369]

I prefer where you’re having to trouble shoot - find it very interesting.

[@celticht32]

The color for most legacy Tandy's (battle ship grey ones) is mercedes grey

[@infinitecanadian]

Correction: the switch only uses a fiberglass board, not a PCB.

[@stevesether]

Curious that the internal design is so bad. This machine originally sold for $3450 in 1980. Which was a hell of a lot of money back then for an 8 bit machine. Compare that to the Apple II which sold for $1298 in 1977. Or compare it to the IBM 5150 in 1981, which sold for $1565. It's not an entirely fair comparison, since the Apple II didn't include a disk drive or monitor, and the 5150 didn't include a monitor. But $3450 was still a LOT of money for a Z-80 machine. Probably the more direct comparison was the Osborne 1, which was also a Z80 machine with built in disk drive, monitor, and a detachable keyboard that sold for $1795. So the TRS-80 II was a strange outlier that was crazily overpriced. Oddly, I think the high price may partially explain the bad internal design. When you design something to be cheap, it has to be inexpensive to put together. That means the designers have to put more initial work into it to make it easy to produce. The same isn't true when the thing can sell for a high price. You don't really have to put a lot of thought into how it's put together. I can't imagine how much time it took to assemble these things in the factory!

[@brentboswell1294]

I always loved what Jeremy Clarkson said in top gear: "Hand made means that the door handles will eventually come apart in your hand" (in reference to classic Rolls-Royce cars) 🤣

[@mikeuk666]

Adrian have you ever watched the fascinating closeup repairs on NorthridgeFix channel?

[@nickblackburn1903]

So...$40 per hour on this computer restoration, would be a bill of how much? You have poured so much effort into this and it is to be applauded, well done sir!

[@misterhat5823]

Uno Lab? Could that be Und Lab for Underwriters Laboratories?

[@massmike11]

Its amazing how many people don’t think of rust blueing when they have rusty parts.

[@Jpetersson]

There´s a Terminator inside? Daaaaaaamn, son!!! Hasta la vista, baby!

[@kaitlyn__L]

Have you considered making a new intro sequence? Dubbed to VHS or not (and I do really like that look for the intro), I think there’s a lot of new great clips you could use! I guess I’ve seen it so many times I started tuning it out, but it just occurred to me it’s not super representative anymore! (Much emptier desk, less lighting, some more minor products, various “filler” feeling clips which could be replaced by more hardware shots, etc. And most importantly, THERE’S NO RAMMY! 😉)

[@redace001]

We fans should make one for him, and use some recent higher resoultion footage ( reaturing Rammy of course), slap on some new charp titles and just re-use the audio track. ;)

[@charlesjmouse]

Isn't inertia a wonderful thing? In the dim and distant past somebody came up with the Shugart standard, very likely a mix of whim a pragmatism. It worked, and nobody bothered to change it, so today we can plug solid state drives in to machines that really have no business being compatible.