Using nucs to fix a queenless hive

Instructional on determining if a hive is queenless, then correcting the issue using an established nuc by combining the nuc and the hive without caging the queen.
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[@johnnybigpotato2404]

Good advice on keeping Nucs around. Thanks for the video. I was thinking that a direct introduction would be successful. Thanks for showing that it is possible.

[@Brewmaster721]

Thanks for this video. I have the same problem right now. Hive with no queen. I do have a NUC colony that recently produced a queen. You gained a subscriber too. Thanks again

[@DysonApiaries]

Thanks for the feedback. Nucs are a very important part of any size operation.

[@SallyHampton]

Hi - I live in Los Angeles and found your video trying to figure out what to do. I got a nuc of bees on May 26th and was told by the guy I got them from that he was 99% sure there was a mated queen. On June 1st I inspected and saw no new eggs or active brood but what looked like queen cells or cups on one frame (didn't move the bees to know for sure). But, I assumed I either had no queen to start or something had happened to her so I left them alone. On June 8 I checked again and saw no evidence of any queen cups at all (unless possible that bees repurpose cups after one hatches?) but still no active brood at all. So, I am thinking that this hive is "hopelessly queenless?" and the workers could start laying themselves soon. I was offered another nuc of this guys nuc with an queen to combine and was at the bee store yesterday and the beekeeper there told me was very risky and that once a hive has been queenless for a few weeks (and especially if the workers start laying) that they won't accept the queen in the nuc and the workers from both hives will also fight and kill each other. She also told me that giving the queenless nuc a frame of new eggs and larvae won't be the answer because I will weaken the queen right nuc and that the queenless nuc won't have nurse bees, could reject, etc. AND she claims even if they did make a new queen, there are no drones around for her to mate with. Then I see your video and everything she says seems to be wrong and I am so confused. If you can offer me any insight I would appreciate in case things are different in southern california? and, yes, I am a fairly new beekeeper as I have only had one other feral swarm that I managed for about 1-1-/2 years.

[@clinteastwood4704]

Just found this video and your channel. Good video with valuable information. Just subscribed

[@DysonApiaries]

Thanks for the feedback

[@daisyshoney6021]

Great job on the video.

[@DysonApiaries]

Thank you!

[@ricardodominguez3785]

Thank you for sharing this video , great info.

[@DysonApiaries]

Quite welcome

[@jeffsea6490]

_thx 4 sharing accurate, interesting information_ 👍🇺🇸

[@DysonApiaries]

Quite welcome!

[@tmcuevs7988]

This the video i was looking for. Thank you!!!

[@DysonApiaries]

Awesome. I use this method all the time. Always good to have a few nucs for every 10 or so hives.

[@tmcuevs7988]

@@DysonApiaries when you shook the bees off to the ground, whats the reason for that?

[@DysonApiaries]

I like to get the hive disorganized so when they are more prone to accept the queen. The nuc (with the queen) is left together and organized so they protect the queen.

[@tmcuevs7988]

@@DysonApiaries what hapens to the foragers of the nuc?

[@DysonApiaries]

Typically I have several nucs running side by side. The foragers will just return to an adjacent hive. If they come back in loaded with nectar, the neighbors will accept them.

[@michaeljricke611]

I would have thought adding them directly in would be risky. I've done the same thing with nucs and swarms but always did a paper combine.

[@DysonApiaries]

I’ve done this many times with near 100% success. I typically do this in situations where a hive is hopelessly queenless or when I need to get a hive right back in order for an approaching nectar flow.

[@michaeljricke611]

@@DysonApiaries Yeah. It's cool. I'll give it a shot when appropriate

[@Jason-xu6pi]

Do you know if this technique will correct laying worker?

[@DysonApiaries]

No guarantees, but I have used this method to correct that state. It needs to be a strong nuc…not just a couple frames.

[@bradgoliphant]

Hello my friend, do you have a favorite place to buy your honey jars? And does it make a different to have plastic or glass jars for honey? Thanks

[@DysonApiaries]

Depends how many you’re looking for. You can buy slick sided canning jars from Walmart and tractor supply in small quantities. All the bee places have jars. If you’re wanting large quantities, you’ll want to look at a place like Pipeline. With any, you just have to watch and wait on price fluctuations…and this year, you buy wherever you can get them because everyone is out. Some people will not buy honey in plastic, but plastic is table friendly for squeezing. I think you have to do both to be successful.

[@bradgoliphant]

@@DysonApiaries very helpful. Thank you

[@scotthenderson4376]

With the importance of the nuc why wouldn't you have kept the queen cells for a nuc and place it were the main hive was so the returning workforce would populate it spme

[@DysonApiaries]

We graft every week and have queen cells from the genetics we prefer. I can easily start up a new nuc with those. Additionally, the emergency cells found here are not ideal for a really good queen, so I prefer to use our own cells. Good question.

[@bandiengdoh1157]

I have a laying worker hive and I introduce a queen they accepted the queen after 2 week I checked the laying worker are still continue to laying multiples egg in the cell so haw I will do to correct a laying worker hive

[@DysonApiaries]

If the queen is laying, the brood pheromone will suppress the laying workers ovary development. Give it a couple more weeks and it should correct. I will saw however, I have never successfully introduced a queen to a laying worker colony. I’ve always have to combine or throw a nuc with them to correct. But when putting a nuc with a laying worker colony, the laying worker behavior persists for a period after until those workers with developed ovaries cycle out.

[@davidsoloninka7742]

When introducing a new queen i thought u had to introduce her slowly in a queen cage with a candy plug? Thx, Novice Dave

[@DysonApiaries]

If introducing a queen by herself, yes, there must be an introduction method employing delayed release so the bees can “warm up to her”. With this method using nucs, an entire colony of bees (2-4 lbs) are being introduced with their own queen to another colony. I do not use any delayed release in this case. I have never had a failed introduction when “slamming a nuc” with a queenless colony.