Using the Flutter Test to Tension a Bandsaw Blade

[@Zillustration]

Funny to actually learn this physical test for tension. I've always plucked the back of the blade like a guitar string and raised the note to a certain pitch... I couldn't tell you what note I'm tuning to, but it has always been consistent across the many blades and saws I've used... Now I can ditch that method, or see if there's a new note I should be tuning to!

[@vileguile4]

Thank you for promoting safety

[@Rich32262]

Great video, my only thought is when replacing blades, as I just did, they aren't always the exact same length. With that said, the tension gauge on my saw is useless. It's a new saw and I adjusted it as per manufacturers recommendations and the tension setting still doesn't match the blade I have on, that's why I think this is a great way to tension. Blades can stretch (although minimally) over time and again, the gauge setting wouldn't be reliable. Thanks for the tip.

[@davnunn1]

5 I have a budget secondhand bandsaw. Initially the blade wandered, but after replacing it that’s sorted. Now the problem is the saw struggled to follow curved lines. Could the tension be too great?

[@Hijason74]

If your not going to be using the bandsaw for a few weeks should you release the tension on the blade or once you tension it properly leave it always tension

[@wb_finewoodworking]

Interesting technique.

[@GNU_Linux_for_good]

04:38 *ARRRGGGGG.......* but Tom promised us *not* getting his fingers *anywhere* near the spinning blade..

[@mc4kvb]

I only have a Craftsman bandsaw. It's not a very expensive one bc I'm just getting started. I've got me blades and installed them and adjusted the tension but my saw makes a shrilling sound. I've done everything I know to do... rechecked to make sure the tension wheels aren't to close but I'm at a loss. The saw works great and saws straight but that noise! Any thoughts? Thank you for this tip.

[@Zillustration]

Shrill like a bearing is squealing? Often times there is noise if the guide bearings are too close to the blade (sides and back), touching while not under load.I set my guide bearings to a fraction of an inch of not touching the blade, while the blade is free spinning.

[@africancichlids3011]

wheels should only move once cutting occurs. other wise a playing card thickness, is usually fine. or the thickness of 2 sheets of printer paper.

[@africancichlids3011]

my bandsaw is a 10 inch rikon and doesnt have tht lever in the back so the flutter test is best for my situation , althouhgh i keep breaking bandsaw blades at weldes im guessing the buttjoint blades are poop or tension is to high , my saw has no blade on it atm too expensive to replace 10 x a year

[@johnconklin9039]

I had the same saw and recently got rid of it for just that reason. My theory is that the tighter radius flexes the bands too much and causes the failure, especially the narrow ones that I wanted to use.

[@africancichlids3011]

did you get another 10 inch ? i have had the same problem with 3/8th 1/4 and 1/8th blades and even a 1/2 inch blade all broke at weld .i think i had one blade actually last almost a month i couldnt believe it .

[@africancichlids3011]

i think , the one time i actually got it to stay on for a while and not break i did the flutter tension way other times i did not use that technique. i did the gullet in the center of the blade thing

[@africancichlids3011]

of the wheel i meant gullet in center of the wheel

[@johnconklin9039]

No, I got a 14" to replace it.

[@cpeterson877]

You know what I wonder? I wonder if this guy really dresses lile a charachature of a woodwooker in real life or.just when shooting videos.

[@rockbandgamer]

He's wearing an apron bro. What's your issue lmao? No wonder people harp on their self image so much when you get called out for wearing shop apron in a woodworking video.