V-strom 1000 Cleaning behind the countershaft sprocket cover

[@Artur1959]

My 2014 V-Strom 1000 develops a clutch fluid leak due to all the filth that the chain packs in that area. It needs constant cleaning, but I have never changed the rubber seals. I took a piece of 5/16 hose tight between the cover and the transmission, and inside of it the push-rod moves freely in a cleaner environment, while the chain grease and dirt are kept away from it.

[@motomax1000]

A FOTO please if you can.nice idea

[@joncook4575]

These videos are a gold mine find on KZbin! Thank you!!!!!!

[@henryfrenchuk]

Thanks man really helped me out. I love the fact that these videos exist. I'm watching your valve clearance at the moment. Hopefully I'll summon up the courage to do it myself

[@VStromGarage]

Glad they helped you out. Thanks for watching!

[@decocatani]

Thank you from 🇧🇷! This vid helped me a lot, mainly for the tip of using a zip tie to disengage the clutch. Great video!

[@wittydisplayname1761]

Great video. Thank you. I made some notes. :45 Zip tie clutch handle (Keeps slave cylinder piston from popping out) 2:22 Use 5mm Allen to take remove two screws from slave cylinder (SC). Top bolt is longer and there is a spacer on it that might fall off when you remove it. No worries, let it happen it is easy to put back on. I had to rock the SC get it to release from a stud guide that is at about 7:30 (like the hour hand on a clock). 4:20 If rubber boot stays on push rod take it off and put back in the SC piston. 4:50 Use 8mm socket to remove three sprocket cover bolts and remove the cover 6:25 Don’t pull silver push rod out until you clean around it 7:40 I did not shine it up just used handle end of a tooth brush to rake it out into my hand because it wanted to fall into the skid plate. 8:05 He used WD40 to loosen up gunk and a rag to clean it then I assume pulled the rod out and cleaned it. I pulled the rod out earlier and made sure not to push any dirt into the hole. 9:00 Put sprocket cover back on. There is a locator pin on the lower right hand screw hole. The long screw goes in the top and the two bottom screws are the same size. 11:05 he says 6 or 7 ft lbs. I doubt I tightened mine that much. (Edit: after experimenting with my small torque wrench I tightened these to between 3 and 4 ft lbs or 36 to 48 in lbs. Use your own judgement.) 11:35 Put longer SC bolt through top hole and put spacer on the back and get that bolt started. 12:10 Put the bottom bolt in and get them hand tight !!! 12:50 Before screwing them in more take the zip tie (or whatever you used) off. Then alternate tightening each screw a little at a time until it is tight. He explains what could go wrong. (I missed this part and installed it with the clutch handle in but got lucky and the bike seems to be fine but it made me worry and is the reason I am cliff noting this video. 15:20 He says the two SC bolts should be about 7 ft lbs. I probably did about 5 ft lbs. (Edit: after experimenting with my small torque wrench I did tighten these to 5 ft lbs or 60 in lbs. Use your own judgement.) Once I got the SC tightened down I noticed that where the 7:30 guide pin is there was a small gap (a little more than a finger nail thickness) between the SC body and where it bolted to. I did not check this before but suspect it is normal. My observation: when the clutch handle is pulled the SC piston moves out and stops and will not move out anymore and I could not push it back in with my thumb. When the clutch handle is out the SC piston will slowly move out on its own and I guess it would come all the way out, but I did not let it. I was also able to push the SC piston in with my thumb while the clutch handle is out. I put the SC back without the sprocket cover so I could watch the push rod as it pushed the clutch in and let it out. The push rod only moves about an 1/8 of an inch in and out. I of course then assembled it correctly with the sprocket cover. If you are new to this as I am you might notice that with the bike turned off, and your back tire off the ground, and it in gear with the clutch pulled in there is noticeable resistance when trying to turn the back tire. Noticeably more than trying to turn the tire while the bike is in neutral. It is my understanding that this is normal.

[@colinsharp1314]

Thanks for all your vids very helpful been doing alot myself since I found you .from the uk and love the vstrom

[@petecurran3995]

Good vid - always a fun job! Just to add, on my 2018 (13k miles) the slave cylinder boot is slightly different, whereby it slots over the piston. Mine was torn so i've a new one on order. Also, found the countershaft sprocket nut a fraction of the tightness it should have been. It's only threadlocked, so is worth checking every time you're in there. 👍🏻

[@voszxxl]

I am ashamed how dirty mine was. 35k km and this is the first clean i did. Next part is changing the sprockets and chain. I got an enlightenment with maintenance from you, thx!

[@andrewshore262]

Thank you from 🇬🇧, keep ‘em coming learning all the time 👍

[@guilherme1177]

Thank you so much, big hug from Brazil.

[@jrbass62]

Just a note.. I have a 2014 1000 strom. If you have oil leaks in the area of countershaft sprocket,There is a oil seal the clutch rod passes thru. Check it heat makes them hard, and it leaks engine oil in same area as sprocket..

[@samboles3670]

I haven't yet purchased this bike, but I subscribed anyhow "good stuff"

[@VStromGarage]

Thanks Sam!!

[@judge4342]

Keep going mate! Excellent. Believe it or not this morning am was tighting my chain and I was scared to remove the clutch pump. Now I saw how to do it😊 thanks

[@emfl4437]

I need to do this. Thanks for sharing

[@jobrn1]

Great Video! Only I was not patient and I skipped parts of it and now my clutch is messed up. :) To be specific I did not zip tied my clutch lever and when I put everything back together my clutch is not engaging. Or it is like 10 - 15%. So how do I fix this? You said, pushing the plate back in place through the oil filler cap. Is it that simple? Or is there something more to it so I do not mess some more stuff up. Sorry for that, but I really am not a technician type of guy. :)

[@VStromGarage]

Open the oil filler cap and see if the clutch plates look separated. If they are try to use a screwdriver and push it back in place. Usually the first plate.

[@jobrn1]

@@VStromGarage Ok and when the plates are not separated?

[@williamw704]

@@jobrn1 Long shot, but did you run into a good fix for this?

[@gabyadri2000]

ThanK you !! From Spain..

[@jaywhoisit4863]

Great info thanks.

[@BlueRidgeKat1]

Didn't see much actual cleaning in the video. Can you use brake clean in there to clean it? That stuff is really good and makes cleaning easier.

[@VStromGarage]

I usually don't use brake clean around that area because of the rubber seals. I just use WD40 and a rag.

[@TheMilkybarkid69]

Fantastic help, thank you .

[@DarksideoftheMoon79]

How often do you do this clean? I did this today at 11k miles it was full to the brim of shiny tarry goop. Im not sure if the push rod seal has a leak (the seal looked ok and didn’t feel hard after cleaning) or whether I am overlubing the chain, also the boot on the piston is different on mine it fits over rather than inside the cylinder housing. Another question do you grease the rod after cleaning or just re-seat it dry? I’ll be changing my chain and sprockets soon so ill keep my eye out for a leak and replace the seal then if necessary. Also is it necessary to zip tie the clutch lever as I assume as long as I don’t touch the lever it should be ok or is that just for reassurance? I also accidentally knocked my gear lever into 1st while everything was disassembled but I didn’t seem to have any issues afterwards it was a tad clunky first few changes but settled and went through the gears and into neutral ok afterwards and a quick ride around the block everything felt normal. Im just paranoid about a possible push rod seal leak.

[@VStromGarage]

I try to clean it about every 5000 miles. The pushrod, I just clean it and put it in dry, there's enough lube inside the seal to keep it moving. Putting grease on the rod just makes debris stick to it faster. The reason to zip tie the clutch lever is to keep the piston in the slave cylinder from popping out, the resting pressure will eventually pop it out. Not a big deal just clean up the mess, put the piston back in and bleed the system. The most important part is to remove the zip tie before you tighten the bolts all the way on the slave cylinder. start the bolts, release the zip tie then tighten the rest of the way down.

[@suriyagau]

Thank you so much, good that I check this video first, otherwise I would screw up the cleaning especially the clutch is related. Suzuki's design is not as friendly as Yamaha. I better let the shop do it for me, I am not that handy.

[@santiagoescuderotrujillo8642]

Thank you it's a good video mantenaice world West. Reguards to Spain

[@want2ride135]

I really enjoy your channel. I purchased a 2018 Vstrom 1000xt a year ago. I have used your videos for reference. Like this latest one as I will need to do this as well. Question. Any experience with the Starter Relay Assembly under the seat crapping out after only 3500 miles. Or have you heard about this being a weak component? Mine did this past weekend and nearly left me stranded had it not been for someone more mechanically inclined than me to get bike running. And bigger problem is that they are in back order with Suzuki Canada, which makes me think there is a problem.

[@VStromGarage]

I'm glad that you are enjoying the videos!! Haven't heard anything about those going bad, but anything mechanical or electrical can go bad at any time unfortunately. I did have a headlight relay on my 05 1000 go bad coming home from a long trip, stopped for gas, turned the bike off and the lights stayed on, luckily I caught it before I got stranded.

[@BetocuasC]

Great!!!, thank you!!

[@fallofmanbrand]

Loved It!

[@eladionunez2032]

Great video thanks

[@MrForbiddennightmare]

Hello, I always see you videos and I have followed this with no problems, but today while doing it I forgot to tight clutch, what can I do in that case?

[@VStromGarage]

I'm not quite sure what problem you are having, if you are talking about not squeezing the clutch lever before removing the slave cylinder, the worst that will happen would be that the slave cylinder piston would pop out. If that happens just put the piston back in and you'll have to bleed the line.

[@thihaboyz]

After cleaning countershaft cover and front sprocket , I reassembled the cover and I accidentally made clutch hole oil seal fall inside which I didn't notice. After reinstalled , a lot of engine oil leaked out from that loose oil seal when engine started.It is my fault not to notice clutch oil seal was not in its place. My bike is 2018 V strom 1000.

[@VStromGarage]

That's not fun, at least it's a cheap fix.

[@alexmitchel3284]

I feel like I have a leak from that area! Do you have a video of crankcase leak repair?

[@VStromGarage]

I don't have anything for that, usually it's either the clutch push rod seal, or the countershaft seal. Some times it's just chain goo on the clutch push rod that needs to be cleaned.

[@alexmitchel3284]

@@VStromGarage okay awesome I found a list of part numbers and may end up changing gearing. While I wait for parts im going to clean it all up then finish the oil change. See what happens

[@el..1818]

잘봤습니다~ 👍

[@mikejohnson9118]

1 Does the bike need to be in "Neutral" to do this? Or does it matter? 2 Do you lube the clutch shaft/pin before reinstalling?

[@VStromGarage]

I don't think it matters, I usually put it in neutral. I don't lube the clutch rod, just clean it and put it back in. The oil in the engine will lube it.

[@PeterW961]

Thanks! Will it leak? Did you empty the system first?

[@VStromGarage]

no it won't leak, you don't have to drain anything

[@spignetti]

Charcoal lighter fluid works the best...Great hand cleaner too...Cheap....

[@VStromGarage]

Good to know!

[@DovesDescent]

I now refuse to ride my motorcycle until I replace the sprocket and chain, If I hadn’t taken the cover off I would have never known.

[@tennyis28]

Good video, zip tie isn’t necessary though. I prefer leaving it alone

[@VStromGarage]

You could, but it's quite a mess if that piston pops out and another 20min of getting everything out to bleed the clutch line.

[@MrSyvern1]

It seems counter intuitive to depress the clutch, please explain this.

[@tennyis28]

@@MrSyvern1 it’s better not too, just leave it alone. The risk is that you decide to depress the clutch with it all taken apart, just don’t do that

[@panuser5928]

Νice video!

[@mcdamike]

I forgot to put a zip tie around the clutch and now I can’t put the thing back in

[@VStromGarage]

Just make sure everything is clean, and put a little brake fluid on the puck. It should just push back in.

[@mcdamike]

Yeah, I was able to push the piston back in and out it back on and ride with no problemz.

[@electriccars-EV]

Cool video @​V-Strom....... I can`t find you on my sublist. Have you been able to check? Are we friends?

[@VStromGarage]

Subscribed 😃

[@volt8684]

Much worse job on latest gen, shotty plastic cover need 8” t bar to undo Allen bolts hidden as hell. Rubbish

[@MrForbiddennightmare]

Help please 🥺

[@MrForbiddennightmare]

I was getting a small leakage, but I think because I put the cable holder in the wrong place