V15 Climber's Analysis of Adam Ondra & Chris Sharma | ft. Ethan Pringle

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About The Guest:
Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast!
We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad’s life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.
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[@chuckz28]

I think Ondra is very accurate at nailing each hold on the first grab so he isnt wasting energy readjusting or checking for security. He knows what will stick and what won't.

[@gabethomas8123]

his accuracy is unparalleled, just amazing. Doesn't seem human at times

[@matthewpundamiera95]

i forget the video but there were some strong climbers talking about how adam was inquiring about certain holds before he attempted a flash. they said he was asking questions like how does the hold feel, which way is the best way to place the fingers, is the pinky on or off, etc

[@mrmonsterhunter808]

@@matthewpundamiera95probably the 9A+ flash

[@S1KHooligan]

I love the embracement of lounging during the podcast. I hate sitting! Great podcast!

[@macfilms9904]

I did a little bouldering with Chris when he was young & having watched both a lot in videos, to me, Ondra is incredibly precise in his grips, body position and footwork. Chris has such insanely strong fingers, he doesn't seem to need to be worried about his foot placement or body position - if he can get his hand on it, he'll probably hold it and he can readjust as needed with his fingers and with his feet. Obviously this is relative: Ondra has incredible hand strength & Chris has reasonably good footwork - I just think Chris' hand strength has allowed him to be a little sloppier with his feet - Ondra is just more precise.

[@hetistijmen]

I think the difference between cerebral and beast mode is a gradient everyone moves on. For me, a big part of projecting is getting my body to automatically get the holds the optimal way for me on that climb. Then once the right way takes less mental effort than the wrong ways, I try really hard and aim my mental energy at getting the most power into the rock or wall, and every once in a while I end up on top of a big rock. Then it's time for a different rock. Not so cerebral there.

[@chuffer595]

Yay Ethan on the podcast! A great climber and a great guy.

[@SpartaSpartan117]

Where's the video of Adam on sighting Golden Ticket?

[@SpartaSpartan117]

@@DaleTurrell woah! That's crazy, I've never seen that before. Is there footage of him onsighting pure imagination from the same day as well?

[@ilvonful]

Does his back hurt or what

[@mosaicboulders3960]

It's like climbing therapy couch. Make the climber lounge and go deep....

[@highcurrent1125]

Classic Ethan !

[@biomorphic]

I was thinking: does a boulderer really need a bed? A true boulderer should sleep on his pad. The mattress is overrated. 😀

[@ristosovcev98]

I sleep on my pad at home😂

[@ristosovcev98]

Totally overrated