V8 BMW Owners - change this part or else... Project E34 PT.12

[@KingMooseThe3rd]

I've had a V8 M62B35 (Non-VANOS) on the go in my E38 for the last 10 years as my daily driver. I've put on about 245,000mi in that time and it's never turned a hair. I rarely give the car the business, sometimes I kick down into 4th to overtake. I once went into my BMW Dealer to ask whether I should think about having the chains, tensioners and guides sorted at the front end, and the technician (Classic technician, rather than the new car servicing technician) said that if nothing had gone wrong so far, it was very unlikely to go wrong at this point. Like the Alusil and Nikasil liner issues, you either got a good one, or you didn't, and if it hasn't caused a problem in 25 years, it won't be causing an issue. Great video though, really informative and love the cold-start at the end!

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Thats amazing, you got a bulletproof one! 👍

[@francispowell1811]

Good service advice, but especially so for later M62/M62TU evolution engine which unfortunately went to a simplex timing chain and large U guide, in place of the M60s duplex chain sprockets. Frankly, the M60, 3 or 4 ltr, is relatively bulletproof...luckily for you. Enjoying your content. Been so helpful. Thank you!!

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Thank you friend! Glad to hear it!

[@twake34]

Thanks for the extra minute

[@CUSTODIAN70]

Now,that's what I call a complete video!Very good idea the dry crank.This,also,reminds me to to clean the ICV in my Bimmer.Thanks for reposting,great job.

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Thank you sir!

[@jimmymelik6132]

Man!!!! Love your content! Thanks for this! Will definitely check my idle control unit out and do this as you did! Great job!👏

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Thanks Jimmy!!

[@jimmymelik6132]

​@@DeadEndRestorations I just did the Idle control unit. It didn't move at all, so i cleaned it and my car idle runs smoother.. BUT sometimes when i am going to brake my rpm goes slighty under 500rpm and then back up around 600rpm when i just standing still at a red light. Sometimes it drops so much that my car dies. But doesn't actually happen often, but its still so annoying. My bet is on the brake cylinder vacuum leak... some guys on the BMW forums pointed out that. And lucky us, the dealer doesn't sell any new cylinders at all, and also those third market isn't available at all so im pretty messed up on those options. My last option is to get it restored Any Suggestions? :)

[@DeadEndRestorations]

@@jimmymelik6132 ouch! Glad it got better but sucks it didn’t cure it. The brake booster is a huge pain in the ass, best bet would be to get it vacuum tested with a smoke machine to find out where the air gap is. It might be coming from a bunch of places as rubber seals get hard and don’t seal tightly. Spend a bit for that test then fogure out what the real cause is, that would be my next step. Good luck! 🤞

[@DeadEndRestorations]

@@jimmymelik6132 it may be from intake side too, smoke machine test will narrow it down for sure

[@jimmymelik6132]

@@DeadEndRestorations Yah! It may be the diaphragm inside the brake booster which leaks air everytime i'm using the pedal.. going to be a pain in the ass to fix that... Thanks anyway your doing an excellent job! Keep that up, bless you! Update: About the intake i tried spraying everywhere with brake cleaner around the hoses at intake for check if the rpm changes at idle, didn't see anyting at all. will check further

[@RobZR68]

Great work on restoring the 5er. Love these getting the attention they deserve. Not sure how Trudeau is on swaps up there, but a B40 swap would really wake her up. Now to the issue at hand. The M60 V8 doesn’t have timing chain issues, like the later M/S62 V8 does. Especially the M62tu and newer. If you drop the pan you will see a chunk of guide material on one in a thousand, but you will have oil pump bolts in all of them. One look at the design will show you why. I’ve had 4 of these now and have never done guides or tensioners. Now our E38 M62TU has had it all done. They upgraded the tensioner spring when the TU’s started popping like popcorn and superseded all of them, so the new design applies to the M60 as well. Looking forward to the rest of this build. Keep up the good work.

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Thanks dude! Ya haven’t dropped the pan yet as its miraculously not leaking but if i do I’m sure there are oil pump bolts in there… glad you’re enjoying it!! 🍺

[@timmule7697]

Exceptional good video, thanks a lot! I plan to do this in a couple of days, the idea of cranking the engine dry with a pulled fuel pump relay is astounding, very good. The new tensioner came retracted - do i install it if it's extended or retracted? My M60 is installed in a E30, quite a Frankenstein car. :)

[@derMaex]

I changed the tensioner in my E38 M62 after i read about it online. The chain immediately stopped making sounds. Small price, big effect.

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Absolutely! Well done

[@naricism]

Thanks for the video. Can I pull out the fuel pump fuse instead of the relay to build up the oil pressure?

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Depending on your model yes, mine doesn't have a fuse just a relay so that's how I disabled the fuel pump. Good luck!

[@habsom1406]

As a bone fide 'pimp' I resent your comments...... I only get angry on a Tuesday night! 😁. Great video dude, that V8 beast sounds like a pimp who's high on gas fumes!

[@DeadEndRestorations]

Lol Tuesdays are the new Saturday. Thanks brother 🤟

[@RPDBY]

What did it sound like before you replaced the tensioner?

[@DeadEndRestorations]

It sounded the same almost, just a bit less noisy after I changed it due to less slack in the chains

[@huntingthelittlepeople3211]

Fkn legend

[@elijahmohlo]

👍🏻