Valvoline Restore and Protect 2k miles FILTER CARNAGE MONSTER SLUDGE!

[@monoralph1375]

Our 2004 Volvo XC70 has about 230,000 miles. We purchased over 10 years ago with about 90,000 miles. The first few oil changes had filters with sludge. PVC system is a contribution to the reputation these 2.5 liter turbo motor create sludge. Ours runs great. Wonderful car. Suggest using FCP euro for parts.

[@DirtE30]

@@monoralph1375 100%. The PCV design on these is asinine. I recently replaced it. Hoping for another 100k miles! I almost always use FCP! Actually just replaced the front sway bar assembly which I sourced from them.

[@piston-wb4np]

legit advice. oil bypass has alot to do with oil thickness cool vs hot. the bypass of filters was originally designed for thicker oils upon startup, then to seal as the oil thinned out. though valveoline r+p is no ordinary oil, using it on a fully sludge motor is asking for problems without a diligent checks and balances.

[@herbbot8241]

That's cool I just changed oil last week with valvoline restore and protect will change after one month

[@donwyoming1936]

Just 15 minutes of Luqui Moly filled up the oil filter on my kid's Hyundai with carbon chunks. Running the Valvoline for 3000k miles really does a job as well.

[@EvzenKovar-i5p]

The only reason I went with VR&P is because my make/model/year has a TSB for oil consumption due to low tension oil control rings. Whilst it had no consumption at 125K, I want to keep it that way. At least hedge against the possibility. Now, if the engine had obvious sludge, I think I would have just left it and reduced my oil change mileage interval. Not sure I’d want to mobilize sludge deposits and possibly cause VVT system problems. I’m very pleased with the VR&P. The engine runs very quiet/smooth on the product. The first change at 2.5K miles yielded a good looking filter. I’ll be using VR&P for the rest of my rig’s serviceable life.

[@DirtE30]

I think the low tension thing is what’s gonna make this product famous… Not sure what you mean by “mobilize contaminants”… removing the filter and cleaning the housing etc and installing a new filter isn’t mobilizing anything that wasn’t already mobile.

[@LeadStarDude]

Others have done examination of the VVT parts before and after using restore and protect, and it cleaned all of the VVT parts and smoothed up their idle. Cleaned the varnish and sludge from screens in the VVT solenoids, making them look brand new again.

[@oneanddonediy]

Wow that's amazing!

[@jagjr6772]

The question I have is what does the oil pan look like with this much sludge? Does Restore & Protect have enough cleaning properties to loosen the oil pan sludge.

[@DirtE30]

Well, hard to say but I don’t have reason to doubt that it would eventually get it cleaned up. Not dropping the pan to find out though. It’s not leaking (shhh…)

[@andreichichak5242]

If you're going to own a Volvo with dubious maintenance history, change the timing belt. I paid the local dealership to change my belt. Did they? No, as it turns out. But even with replacing 20 valves, the car finally died at 500k km. when it got hit. The engine was full of sludge, even with me changing the synthetic oil about every 7500 km, and the PCV system still packed up enough to blow out the rear main seal. But it was the cam belt that did the damage to the engine, not the sludge. Replace the cam belt and get the tech to show you the one that they pulled out.

[@DirtE30]

@@andreichichak5242 I replaced the TB and water pump first thing. Not a hard job on these really. I have also replaced the PCV system in its entirety. Along with every other weak point I could find lol. 😂

[@DirtE30]

@@andreichichak5242 did you sue them?

[@andreichichak5242]

@@DirtE30 No, I'm in Canada and we don't play that card very frequently, plus the dealership changed hands in the mean time, so the liability chain would be broken.

[@DirtE30]

@ I would still think that simple paperwork and proof that you paid for work that wasn’t done would be grounds for them to make it right. One way or another. Sorry that happened to you. Neighbor had the same thing happen locally recently. I ended up confronting the dealership about it. They had zero intentions of fessing up until I posted a video with evidence and they suddenly had a change of heart.

[@lgoamity]

When I checked my XG9018 Fram Ultra Synthetic at 811 miles the filter/pleats had turned from Snow White to Jet Black, but when pressing/scraping the pleats they would reveal the white color of the media before the oil soaked back in... Coming up on 3000 miles soon and I'm hoping I don't get thick/paste like gritty sludge...hoping like the other filters it'll be dirty but mostly liquid and microscopic... Good luck everyone

[@lgoamity]

Just finished taking Samples from my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD 2.4L Ecotec and changed the XG9018 Filter at 3000 miles. (Even Recorded my first KZbin (Short) Video to Document it). The "Black" was still consistently distributed and the Pleats weren't"Caked/Sludged" at all... the Oil from the Cap was fluid and didn't seem "dirty" or chunky. Unlike before (811 miles vs 3008 miles) the Filter Pleats didn't return to a bright white when pressed/scraped... They did lighten some (kind of looking more like a "traditional" brownish Filter Media... But also rather dark, wouldn't think it was ever White and the "brown" more likely... The back (clean") side of the filter looked "good", no "dirty Oil" or fully "Darkened" Pleats on the "filtered" side. Had Intended to do a full Drain/Filter today but I also wanted to see what the Analysis looked like and if VRP and a fresh filter would still perform for another 1000-2000 (5k) miles. Had been down about 1/2 quart before sampling today... It was taking a long while to "drain down" so I "topped off" with about 20 Oz of Quaker State 5W30 Full Synthetic (DexosGen3)... To hopefully get back to around the 1/2Qt low I started with after "filling" the new Cartridge Filter... Will be interesting to see if just 4 (of 5Qts) of VRP can still do a fair amount of cleaning work with the Quaker State "Contamination" holding it back...

[@timkis64]

so basically if your running a "cleaning oil" change it every 3k.but change filters every 1500k.by 3k its likely to go into bypass often, the half that crap gets washed off the filter media & then pumped thru your engine.defeating the whole purpose of a filter in the first place.putting a bypass valve past all the collected dirt & grime is the largest dumbass move in automotive design history.instead of filtering oil, the filter is merely a holding area for dirt untill bypassed right back to the bearings.BRILLIANT!!!

[@DirtE30]

@@timkis64 actually it’s 100% necessary as if you didn’t have a bypass, the sump would simply be sucked dry as the oil couldn’t return to the pan due to the restriction of the clogged filter. Dirty oil is better than no oil 100% of the time. In a perfect world you don’t need such but it actually goes into bypass during cold starts etc pretty regularly.

[@goochi5544]

Before switching to vrp do an engine flush first.

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

Oil wasn't changed every 5k miles....

[@DirtE30]

@@owenhill-vf7ko clearly the previous owner didn’t. Or they didn’t use proper spec oil.

[@LeadStarDude]

That specific oil filter has terrible flow characteristics. Try a Purolator Boss next time. Equal filtering capability but with 3 times better flow characteristic.

[@DirtE30]

Beggars and choosers around here sometimes. But I agree, I’m a purolator fan. This last one I put on was a standard Purolator and it looked considerably better.

[@Daniel-qe8qe]

Speak up

[@DirtE30]

@@Daniel-qe8qe are you saying you couldn’t hear me clearly in the video? It’s clear on my end and no one else has mentioned this. Maybe it’s time for some ear pieces? Lol

[@Daniel-qe8qe]

@DirtE30 no, it's definitely YOU.

[@DirtE30]

@ ok… sounds perfectly normal and easily understood from this end. Not sure what the issue is on your end. Anyone else?

[@Daniel-qe8qe]

@DirtE30 anyone else? You have roughly 400 subs and a handful of damn comments, it's not like you're "reaching out there" lol.