@@BTL3.0 I mean bigger is more efficient in theory. The 13 has proven to be more than adequate however in this specific application.

@ i’m slowly gathering parts to do the same setup as yours. Thermostat is on the way from ebay. Parker hose will probably get from their website directly. It’s like $4.64/ft. Not bad. Saw another video where the guy installed the hayden cooler and he uses 15-16ft of hose length total. Similar setup, no oem hardline. Straight from thermo to cooler. I may get 16ft to be safe.

@@opera93 why does any manufacturer use any conventional oil? Blows my mind.

Well, hard to say but I don’t have reason to doubt that it would eventually get it cleaned up. Not dropping the pan to find out though. It’s not leaking (shhh…)

Aha! Nice!

Beggars and choosers around here sometimes. But I agree, I’m a purolator fan. This last one I put on was a standard Purolator and it looked considerably better.

@LeadStarDude What about the Purolator ONE? Do you know if it has the same flow characteristics as the BOSS? If planning to change the filter every few thousand miles and go thru ten of them in short order, I would like to use one that's less expensive if I can! Please share whatever you might know about the ONE instead of the BOSS THANKS!

@jeffs3917 The Purolator One is pretty much the same as the Mobil One filter. Both offer decent filtering with a synthetic blend filter media, but both restrict oil flow compared to the Purolator Boss. Purolator Boss has a fully synthetic filter media. It filters better and flows better. If you change your oil every 3k miles the the Boss may not be necessary, and either of those other two will do fine. I do 5k mile oil changes with fully synthetic oil, so I use the Boss. Regardless, the Boss still filters better, and both the cold flow and hot flow are way less restricted. So that's up to you. I like the idea of having both better filtering and better oil flow.

@@owenhill-vf7ko clearly the previous owner didn’t. Or they didn’t use proper spec oil.

@@Ibonic yes. I’m just demonstrating that the R&P definitely does what it claims and that one should be aware of the effects of that on oil filter life. Engine is quieter by far already. Was also getting intermittent exhaust cam phaser position faults that have now cleared up. Notorious issue with carbon getting clogged in the inlet strainers of the VVT solenoids.

@DirtE30 I don't see why anyone would give you ish or disagree with what you're saying. You're not wrong

@@timkis64 actually it’s 100% necessary as if you didn’t have a bypass, the sump would simply be sucked dry as the oil couldn’t return to the pan due to the restriction of the clogged filter. Dirty oil is better than no oil 100% of the time. In a perfect world you don’t need such but it actually goes into bypass during cold starts etc pretty regularly.

@@owenhill-vf7ko lol ok. You wanna cookie now?

Bypass valves are needed, yes. But I'm with @timkis64 on the design of putting them at the bottom of the filter. It needs to be in the engine block, in the flow line BEFORE the filter. So whenever the filter is not flowing enough, the valve opens and oil just gets returned without even entering the filter at all. Then the filter itself should have no valve in it, so that all the crap that has collected in the pleats and in the can has no way back into the engine without passing thru the filter media. With that much junk all over the pleats, on every cold start, when the valve opens, oil is flowing in, right past and through all that collected crap, very likely picking some of it back up, and then carrying it thru the open valve and right back into the engine. How much of that actually happens I don't have a clue. I suspect in normal operation, virtually none at all. But when starting with VR&P, when there's suddenly a LOT of junk there, I bet it is doing some of exactly that. I know of course some GM engines are made this way, where the correct filter has no valve, and the valve is in the engine block. And I've seen some filters with the bypass at the top, not the bottom, which would also alleviate this problem. As mentioned, if one is not cleaning out a bunch of sludge, and just running normally, my guess is that it's a non-issue. But when first starting to use VR&P it REALLY REALLY seems a very good idea to me to change the filter very soon and at least twice for every oil change. Maybe three times for the first one.

@@softwaresignals they recommend running it for several oil changes to get the complete result.

@@MrSamPhoenix me too but it’s a complete PITA to take off and put back on with these Volvo 5cyls. Not like a normal setup.

@ I feel your pain.

@@Daniel-qe8qe are you saying you couldn’t hear me clearly in the video? It’s clear on my end and no one else has mentioned this. Maybe it’s time for some ear pieces? Lol

@DirtE30 no, it's definitely YOU.

@ ok… sounds perfectly normal and easily understood from this end. Not sure what the issue is on your end. Anyone else?

@DirtE30 anyone else? You have roughly 400 subs and a handful of damn comments, it's not like you're "reaching out there" lol.

I think the low tension thing is what’s gonna make this product famous… Not sure what you mean by “mobilize contaminants”… removing the filter and cleaning the housing etc and installing a new filter isn’t mobilizing anything that wasn’t already mobile.

Others have done examination of the VVT parts before and after using restore and protect, and it cleaned all of the VVT parts and smoothed up their idle. Cleaned the varnish and sludge from screens in the VVT solenoids, making them look brand new again.

​@DirtE30 I think he means that the VR&P does such a good job of loosening junk and getting it moving toward the filter. All that movement of lots of junk has to pass thru the engine from wherever it is, just to GET to the filter. That's a lot of opportunity for large amounts of dislodged junk to get into places where it can cause more harm. How much of that actually happens in an engine I have no personal experience. But some people have posted about it. And in cases of major-ly sludged-up engines it does make perfect sense. I do have experience of that happening with an automatic transmission once, so I do understand it. I think that @EvzenKovar-i5p was saying that for major-ly sludged-up engines, instead of that risk, if one stays with a good synthetic with high additives, but not VR&P and just reduce the interval, it will remove junk much more gradually with less chances of getting large amounts caught in other areas of the engine. That said, I wrote and asked Valvoline about it, and they wrote back and specifically said it's designed to work at a more gentle pace, and not clog filters at all. But I've now seen several videos where it HAS clogged a filter. The stuff apparently DOES WORK and VERY WELL. It just makes a LOT of sense if I'm gonna use it to CHANGE JUST THE FILTER after a very short time, say 1000 to 2500 miles as @DirtE30 said right in this vid. Cut open the filter and see where I am. Run the oil itself for 5000 miles is fine, but at least one filter change if not two, and OPEN THEM to see where I am. Gradually extend the miles on each filter as I am finding them clean.

@@kevinkinsler I tend to disagree on the Fram side.

@DirtE30 I will be honest, Fram has more miles in the last 4 decades, than Any filter,The Synthetic Endurance filters down to 20 micron and for $11 bucks at Wal-Mart it CANT be beaten. But I understand your opinion....Their cheapest filters seem junkie, however they are proven for decades.

@@andreichichak5242 I replaced the TB and water pump first thing. Not a hard job on these really. I have also replaced the PCV system in its entirety. Along with every other weak point I could find lol. 😂

@@andreichichak5242 did you sue them?

@@DirtE30 No, I'm in Canada and we don't play that card very frequently, plus the dealership changed hands in the mean time, so the liability chain would be broken.

@ I would still think that simple paperwork and proof that you paid for work that wasn’t done would be grounds for them to make it right. One way or another. Sorry that happened to you. Neighbor had the same thing happen locally recently. I ended up confronting the dealership about it. They had zero intentions of fessing up until I posted a video with evidence and they suddenly had a change of heart.

@@monoralph1375 100%. The PCV design on these is asinine. I recently replaced it. Hoping for another 100k miles! I almost always use FCP! Actually just replaced the front sway bar assembly which I sourced from them.

Just finished taking Samples from my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD 2.4L Ecotec and changed the XG9018 Filter at 3000 miles. (Even Recorded my first KZbin (Short) Video to Document it). The "Black" was still consistently distributed and the Pleats weren't"Caked/Sludged" at all... the Oil from the Cap was fluid and didn't seem "dirty" or chunky. Unlike before (811 miles vs 3008 miles) the Filter Pleats didn't return to a bright white when pressed/scraped... They did lighten some (kind of looking more like a "traditional" brownish Filter Media... But also rather dark, wouldn't think it was ever White and the "brown" more likely... The back (clean") side of the filter looked "good", no "dirty Oil" or fully "Darkened" Pleats on the "filtered" side. Had Intended to do a full Drain/Filter today but I also wanted to see what the Analysis looked like and if VRP and a fresh filter would still perform for another 1000-2000 (5k) miles. Had been down about 1/2 quart before sampling today... It was taking a long while to "drain down" so I "topped off" with about 20 Oz of Quaker State 5W30 Full Synthetic (DexosGen3)... To hopefully get back to around the 1/2Qt low I started with after "filling" the new Cartridge Filter... Will be interesting to see if just 4 (of 5Qts) of VRP can still do a fair amount of cleaning work with the Quaker State "Contamination" holding it back...

Agree 100%, see followup video!

Odd… Bet it will be available shortly. It’s pretty new. In the mean time just throw some Timmy’s down its yap… that’ll clean er up bud!

@@DirtE30 I cant wait for it to be available I have a few vehicles I want to try it out on.

The BUYER BEWARE is about the oil filter clogging issue… not the oil. It clearly works. I never said otherwise in the title or the video. See followup video.

Follow up video earns a subscription. Thank you.

Interesting. I’d be curious to know what kind of filter you were using as well. I have seen nothing but problems from Motorcraft blend.

Fairly certain he mentioned this Engine had/has a sludge issue... So Yes while Valvoline does claim VRP won't clog the Filter during a normal Change Interval... It can't/doesn't guarantee an "abused" (dirty) engine won't show a heavily dirty filter. I myself am coming up on 3000 miles on my 2014 2.4L GMC Terrain's first interval with VRP and when I checked my filter at 811 miles it (FRAM Ultra Synthetic XG9018) it looked similar to this one... Can't say it had any heavy deposits... But compared to another vehicle's filter (@700 miles, uses same filters as the Terrain) it still retained much of its original color (K&N red)... IMO, I wasn't expecting the K&N to be in such good shape (that engine while having used Synthetic for much of its 21 Years/192k miles it had been consuming Oil, and I fully expected to see a lot more Carbon/build up... but VRP still did its job and the Engine didn't burn Oil during that Interval and seemed to perform very nicely with it... As for the Terrain's filter (which was a brilliant shock white when new and when Pleast were scraped or pressed it still revealed the white pleats underneath, until the Oil soaked back in. So yes the Filter did its job... The Oil on the Dipstick also still looks relatively "Clean" (clear/golden)... while not its original virtually translucent, hard to read on the Dipstick color.. it still wasn't anywhere near what other Oils tend to look like when it (the Oil and/or filter) is reaching a point where it either isn't suspending/retaining the Insolubles or its showing signs of age/early breakdown(?)... Suspect if the Filter (which for my Ultra Synthetic is like rated for 20,000 miles) were struggling the Oil would be showing a darker/dirtier color... But so far it's looking good Looking forward to seeing what my XG9018 looks like at 3000... Since my other vehicle (2003 Saturn ION) had always tended to show used filters to have a very twisted appearance after 3000-8000 mile service... The Ultra Synthetic with its "reinforced" mesh lining apparently should resolve that... Was also concerned how the used filters looked to "shrink" a bit after twisting... Was worried about performance issues... But Oil Analysis usually indicated that insolubles and Change Intervals were good... Just wish in the Big Picture Valvoline's Restore and Protect had been offered Years ago... to have "solved" my ION's Oil Consumption issues years ago... Then I could have spent more time/money on protecting its rusting Frame (which is what caused its "early" retirement in September... Not worth getting it Winter Ready when the Frame is like Sandstone... Just a matter of time the already large holes/cracks resulted in Catastrophic failure...

What propaganda?! I said in the video we bought it with 125k miles on it, not my doing! It’s clearly not had good maintenance. I DO 5k mile synthetic changes and will going forward on this vehicle as well.

The uploader didn’t say anything wrong. He basically said that Valvoline Restore and Protect is actually doing its job. He’s just recommending either doing a full oil change sooner, or at least change the oil filter a little often.

But that's the problem people believe the myth of, oil can go 10k 😂. Even the top tier synthetic should be changed at 5k. The 7, 8 and 10k pushed by the manufacturer, oil companies and Bob the oil guy website are contributing to engine damage.

@@fredted1611 My 2003 Saturn ION claimed I didn't need to use Synthetics... But I ignored that. Ran Full Synthetics most of its 21 years. The OLM would go between 6-8K miles (Saturn specifically said 6 months/6000 miles (Did not outline if/how I should use the OLM.). Long story short with Oil Analysis for nearly 20 years on that vehicle the "Oil" (Full Synthetic Mind You) was capable for that 6-8K mile run... Now had I actually used the Conventional for the 192K miles I put on it (with in later years Oil Consumption) I'm not sure the Oil Analysis would have been the same... Regardless, even with my GMC 2.4L Ecotec I can't reliably get/meet the OLM's 7500 miles/12 Month Interval. Basically will be shooting for 3-5K miles/6 months/50%-60% OLM unless and until Analysis says I can even attempt going more

Waiting for your results!

@huke2830 im going to send an oil sample out to speed diagnostix soon, I'll make a video on what it comes back with

@@js-wq6zy well, there’s a hundred ways to do anything I supposed. This was the path of least resistance, plenty of air flow. Tested and proven results. Report back when you have yours installed. Love to see it!

@@325-k9k keep in mind that this is when cold… in a hot engine you just shut off, neither “stick” to anything.

@@weloveups831 demonstrably not true my friend. Cooler lowers temps drastically vs not having it. The TRD pro grill provides plenty of flow, there’s also a ton of flow that comes up from under in my experience.

@@EdDesan77 I’m not sure exactly. You can walk it off and add 25%

It was concluded that the 4.7 v8 lasted too long 😂 must save more money cut costs 😂😅 we present to you no lifetime fluid and no trans cooler and self wipeing engine bearings in the turbo v6 engines lol 😆

@@OverlandUSAHD never too late! If you haven’t had over temp issues you’re fine. Great chance to do a full fluid exchange once you have installed.

@@OverlandUSAHD what makes you believe yours doesn’t have one?

@@DirtE30 there is no thermostat between the warmer and the transmission and there is no oil cooling radiator mounted in the front of the big radiator

@@OverlandUSAHD you sure it’s an ‘18? What was the build date? It’s a 5.7?