Couture dress and shoes | Yves Saint Laurent & Roger Vivier | Fashion Unpicked | V&A

Discover a dazzling 1960s evening dress embellished with precious metal threads, beads, sequins, diamantes and coral (which was commonly used in fashion at the time but is now protected). This dress was designed by French couturier Yves Saint Laurent, who took the helm as Head Designer at the prestigious House of Dior when he was only 21 years old. Assistant Curator Chloe Gilbert talks us through the dress’s exquisite craftsmanship, construction and luxury materials, and explains how this dress was on the cusp of a new era of modern fashions for women. She also unboxes a matching pair of evening shoes, designed by legendary shoe designer Roger Vivier, famous for re-inventing stiletto heels.
Find out more about 1960s fashion: www.vam.ac.uk/...
See more shoes in our collection: www.vam.ac.uk/...

[@leftyfourguns]

All of that beading and stitching was done by hand. Just incredible craftsmanship

[@MTMF.london]

That is what couture is all about.

[@vamuseum]

@@MTMF.london Exquisite, isn't it!

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

Maison Lesage....🤗

[@MTMF.london]

@TylerJones-gz3bx You don't know a thing about how couture is made. Talk about ignorance 🙄

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

@TylerJones-gz3bx I've got a tailoring and furrier education, Tyler. There's sewing. And then there's (French) Couture... Maison Lesage lending a hand to create objects of utter elegance and beauty. It might not be your cup of tea though. Wich is fine. 😘

[@misslaeebeauty1916]

Am I the only one who now considers everything the museum post as ASMR even if it isn’t specifically labeled as such! These videos are so informative and relaxing. The curators are always very lovely and passionate about their jobs! ❤️

[@mazzaf7575]

No, her inability to pronounce the designer’s name correctly drove me up the wall!

[@WolfeTone66]

You’re not alone. I love listening to the experts talking about an exhibit. I love the Antiques roadshow too, they could ramble on about anything, it’s like poetry to me😊

[@catsberry4858]

ASMR stands for something. Do you know the definition? It has to fit the definition

[@charlottec5802]

Agreed - these videos are very ASMR-inducing for me! Sometimes I find the ones labelled as ASMR to be the least ASMR-inducing. Maybe I've misunderstood the topic though 🤔

[@WhateverIsTrue01]

So true!!

[@sarahmitchell5206]

I love that she says, "It is now a protected lifeform." Not "Species" but...lifeform. This is how conservation should be taught. Even when dealing with art.

[@katford7286]

Early to mid-60s fashion was so beautiful. Lovely presentation-thank you.

[@musikafossora]

Me too. I love how structured and almost sculptural the garments look.

[@monicacall7532]

While I don’t usually like lots of beadwork because it can be just too fussy, the bodice of this dress is exquisite, especially when combined with the simple but elegant skirt. My first thought upon seeing the dress was to wonder if Jackie Kennedy would’ve owned a dress like this. It would’ve suited hr style perfectly!

[@tomvalveede6808]

Would love to see a photo of the dress as it was worn, back in the day! A masterpiece of detailed handwork and design! Thank you! 🇺🇸♥️🇲🇫♥️🇺🇸♥️🇲🇫

[@steves9905]

I'm a mechanic so shouldn't be allowed near this dress...but it is amazing and would love to see a woman happily wearing his thing of beauty. Gorgeous

[@lisacraze1]

Just gorgeous. Thank you for the detailed descriptions.

[@jeffersonmorant]

That’s so thoughtful of you Lisa, Thanks for your positive review,How are you and how’s the weather over there?

[@jeniallenby8389]

As a costume curator I really enjoyed this, thank you :)

[@LibertyScott-x6i]

Amazing how much craft goes into these garments. It’s an art.

[@elizabethclaiborne6461]

Peak rich person, a cocktail dress covered in gems.

[@ericainbloom]

I just love how simple of a bodice the top is... a basic bodice block with side seams. It is transformed by the beauty of the embroidery and beadwork. A lavish work of art.

[@Thomas-kl5mo]

It was just A True Work of Art, Dior was Stupendous, and St Laurent was so Gifted as well to take over such A legends House at just 21 was A true statement of his Talents.

[@h0rriphic]

If I had the option, i'd sit in my home all day, designing, sewing, and hand beading garments like this mouthwatering dress. Something about tambour and french beading speaks to my soul.

[@MicaFarrierRheayan]

I simply loving these timeless creations ❤ It is quintessentially showcasing his signature craftmanship - the silhouettes are chic for corporate and gala nights... For me, he remains one of those contemporaries whom understands the subtlety in human eyes... Not go overboard but also not too simple. You can say, he helped to shape and elevate the sophisticated persona of the client

[@antoncelestinoestrada-gn5yt]

Wow for the dress and shoes and the museum worker giving the explanation and history ❤❤❤❤

[@nejojohnson]

I really would love to know where the presenter got her denim dress. It's amazing.

[@cb9825]

Ikr! She is standing next to a gorgeous couture dress and her denim dress doesn't look too drab in comparison.

[@jillianmaloney3798]

It is cute isn’t it? It looks like maybe ASOS. They usually have all kinds of denim dresses.

[@WolfeTone66]

Primark 😀

[@sabbyd1832]

Fabulous ensemble. Love the shoes

[@more__plz]

I love the combination of pinks, corals and oranges. Maybe my favorite color combination.

[@nadikarmadi]

Craftmanship is the key ❤❤❤

[@sharonkaczorowski8690]

The design and the artisan ship of its construction is extraordinary. Clothing as art.

[@nancytestani1470]

Just, just gorgeous..

[@sharonkaysnowton]

This Polynesie dress with matching shoes is beautiful. I love the detailing on the bodice. I have never considered myself a "girly girl" but yeah, I would definitely wear this dress if asked. I really like the designs of Yves Saint Laurent.

[@ceciLOVEtaco]

Beading with REAL coral ? VERY VERY VERY Expensive . Coral is a different form of precious STONE . It's harvested from living creature so requires very specific care , just like pearl . Judged from the condition of this dress , the conservation group really did a fantastic job .

[@pjvtunes]

Beautiful exquisite workmanship as well as the designer. Those people that constructed it are to be congratulated. Loved the presentation

[@rsoubiea]

beautiful presentation, very informative. its a pleasure to see fine craftsmanship like this up close and explained how it was made. wow! ❤

[@susprime7018]

Thank you, excellent presentation.

[@maureentuohy8672]

Just breath taking

[@phylis3917]

The vintage snd handmade are exciting. Always loved him discover at 21

[@winkieblink7625]

Beautiful. Still relevant 60 years later due to its simplicity and beauty.

[@daniandare8]

Elisinha Moreira Salles was included four times in the International best dressed list until she elected to the Hall of Fame of the same list in 1964.

[@jeffersonmorant]

That’s so thoughtful of you Danian, Thanks for your positive review,How are you and how’s the weather over there?

[@daniandare8]

@@jeffersonmorant I'm well in a bright clear day...

[@jeffersonmorant]

@@daniandare8 I’m glad you’re enjoying the weather now, It’s gets like that at this time of the year, It’s been cold here in Ohio also, But spring is coming out now, Where are you at ?

[@daniandare8]

@@jeffersonmorant I'm in the state of Minas Gerais ( the state Elisinha Moreira Salles was born), Brazil.

[@jeffersonmorant]

@@daniandare8 I've been to NC couple of times, i travel a lot actually, NC has many great places for sightseeing like theRio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro. Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park, Goias. Bonito, Mato Grosso do Sul. ... Morro de São Paulo, Bahia. Do you travel a lot too, what other places have you visited?

[@karenmitchell6814]

This video shows this dress so much better than other stills you can find online. The bodice looks almost brown in online photos; not very spring at all. In this video the dress is gorgeous.

[@bubblesarah]

Thank you for this fantastic video❤

[@jadakowers590]

I love the video! I love the dress and the shoes! My question is wouldn’t the beaded area under the arms cause enough friction (while wearing) to weaken and displace some of the beading?

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

Wearing a dress like this one, you would not move your arms much... You would use just one arm enough to lift a glass of Champagne to your lips... Then simply hold your pose. For people to admire your dress... 💋 (It's embroidered by Maison Lesage).

[@nalayini1504]

Lovely pieces to be able to see. Loving this channel ❤

[@carminarosariolizarragapar4626]

Beautiful dress and shoes

[@bryanftsk1]

So gorgeous, thank you for this in depth video!!

[@francinesicard464]

This model, the Polynesie Dress, is a splendour! Could be worn today. A real piece of art. It reminds me of Hubert de Givenchy style. I'm pretty sure that bodice was embroidered par François Lesage, the king of embroidery, who collaborated with Pierre Balmain, Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Jacques Heim, Robert Piguet, Jacques Griffe, Jean Dessès, Hubert de Givenchy,[ Grès, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Marc Bohan (at Jean Patou), Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent.

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

Absolutely ! It's Lesage. Maison Lesage was saved by Karl Lagerfeld. Maison Chanel bought the firm when it was nearly discontinued due to hard times financially...

[@debrabelz]

Thanks. Fine presentation.

[@salobrena6442]

at 21 to become Dior's director..incredible

[@the4rtistandtheproduc3r]

Dior died... Then ysl was appointed after

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

YSL began by "picking pins from the floor" at Maison Dior. He proved to be a genius, and reinvented Dior's style from the "New Look" to the "Trapez Style", and "The Little Black Dress" ! Later, under his own label, YSL became the leading star of Haute Couture in Paris. Every fashion designer with half a brain copied YSL's brave designs and use of colours, the next season... YSL drew his bold colour combinations from Arabic mosaic tiles, and the landscape and flowers of his birth place. He would combine Aubergine purple with turquoise. Or pale pink with deep cocoa, and emerald green. This in a fashion world of mostly monocrome colour use.

[@mfredcourtney5876]

The bodice is fantastic. The skirt looks like an apron.

[@favouritemoon4133]

That was really great to watch!

[@HOOBAHOOBA69]

ABSOFUCKINGLUTLY stunning

[@chriswitt2596]

Why not say who wore it? Why no pictures of the person who wore it?

[@annamansbridge6132]

Maybe they preferred to be anonymous.

[@robyn3349]

Wow!

[@irenedavo3768]

Would like to see this being made!

[@SuperMan-xy8ui]

Excellent presentation

[@phylis3917]

Also another love for the gentleman is his use of his favorite model (of color) recall when I was around 21. At 72 now. At the time this was not the vogue. Now the Africans are used. It is the blue in the ski that can enhance some colors. Oh course we know EVERYONE, every culture has its beauties.

[@phylis3917]

You know I mean skin. I remember The Smoking - very -----

[@ChocolateCurls317]

Gorgeous dress

[@psionicjake]

What a stroke of luck someone donated the matching shoes!

[@cb9825]

Who was the woman this dress was made for?❤

[@daniandare8]

Elisinha Moreira Salles, brazillian socialite and philanthropist.

[@a24-45]

"Fun Fact: Roger Vivier is known in the UK for having designed a pair of gold evening high heels for Queen Elizabeth to wear at her coronation in 1953. They had intricately jewel-encrusted heels and narrow curving straps in a "rose window "configuration; however no photos are known to exist of these shoes, and they appear to have been lost to history. Nor has it been confirmed that they were actually worn on any occasion by HM The Queen. The only photo taken during the ceremony which reveals the Queen's footwear shows her wearing a different design by Vivier, a pair of plainer gold kidskin evening platforms, with wider straps and sturdier heel shape. Again, the whereabouts of these other shoes is unknown. So today, sadly, both pairs of coronation shoes are known only by the designer’s drawings (although shoe company Bally has created an exact replica of the gold kidskin ones). NB. The likely reason for the queen not wearing the jewel-encrusted pair for the ceremony was that the dainty strapping would not have been supportive enough; the design is unlikely to have provided a secure enough footing for someone wearing a heavy load of robes plus train plus crown.

[@mariellouise1]

Why combine that beautiful colorful blouse with a white skirt?

[@abkl1]

oh fuck yeah, that beading is absolutely gorgeous

[@otoepony5813]

Yves Saint Laurent. Still fresh. Always will be.

[@itsbellegonzales]

When art meets fashion

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

When fashion is art... 🧵🪡

[@itsbellegonzales]

@@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131 yes

[@jillianmaloney3798]

Wow I studied apparel design and there is a lot out there on Dior & YSL, but I still learned multiple things here! It’s possible I forgot what I’ve read too 😹Sub’d!

[@susantaylor5068]

Exquisite 👏

[@ItsMe-yv9jd]

?? Let's be clear that Yves did not 'leave' Dior, (as stated at 1:32) In 1960 Saint Laurent was drafted into the French army and he was FIRED from the House of Dior... there is a difference from someone 'leaving' a job and being fired from a job. The V&A should be clear about it, if they are documenting his career!

[@jakecavendish3470]

Having been behind the scenes at couture fashion shows in Paris what surprised me is how even a lot of the clothes that end up on the models bear a very loose resemblence to what the designer actually designed. When the seamstresses are interpreting the designs they often say "that shoulder won't work, this seam would be far too high, the lace on the neckline is too much, this needs a bow on the back, the underskirt isn't flattering" and make serious adjustments. They then show the final result to the designer who almost never questions the alterations to his or her design. What you see on the runway is often 50% the creation of an anonymous workroom and 50% the general silhouette and colour/fabric _suggestion_ of the designer.

[@rubenperez6563]

Love it

[@irenedavo3768]

Amazing

[@aimeeinkling]

I really wish there was a photo of the original owner wearing it.

[@daniandare8]

Elisinha Moreira Salles was the owner and I don't think there's a photo of her wearing this dress.

[@lindamac7465]

Beautiful!❤

[@didierduplenne2325]

the fabric of the skirt is Zibeline a stiff yet round shiny type of silk

[@theychosse]

Lovely video, please post more videos like this. Though I do wish she was wearing gloves in case she touches it by accident.

[@vivelaresistance3239]

The dress was worn by the wife of Brazil’s ambassador to the US in the early 60’s. She was beautiful, but because all the newspaper clippings refer to her as “Mrs. Walther DeMoreira Salles” and there were three of those, someone else will have to do the heavy lifting.

[@pamelanadel3787]

Lovely

[@the4rtistandtheproduc3r]

That moment when you step back and realize it's a really ornate, intricate paisley print made entirely of beading.

[@ksw4942]

What’s crazy to me is that this kind of craftsmanship happens in small villages all over the world at a fraction of the cost. Of course, the artistry, fabric and finishing are another matter.

[@judithhopes151]

Was this beaded top heavy to wear, and who was it made for?

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

Trust me, you need strong shoulders to carry all that beading... The bodice itself though is silk chiffon, with a little bit of underpinning. Such as a fitted bra. This is not a dress for comfort. It's all about performance....🧵🪡

[@Odo55]

Is the under skirt detachable, for more versatility, and who was this person who wore it ?

[@joniangelsrreal6262]

Glorious Garment ……transcends time

[@daniandare8]

It was a gift from brazilian socialite Elisinha Moreira Salles.

[@blktauna]

a very striking lady!

[@indoora]

He did not exactly leave Christian Dior, he was shown the door.

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

YSL left to establishment his own label. Funded by his partner...

[@indoora]

@@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131 He was fired from Dior.

[@ericowensnyc]

JUST 😍😍😍😍

[@___beyondhorizon4664]

Exquisite design, i think its not meant to be worn frequently back in the day or furniture. The embellishment cause the outfit to be heavy. Like any antique outfits, its fragile and eventually will be deteriorating

[@twittymilk631]

He didn’t just leave Dior. He was pulled in by the army where he had a nervous and physical breakdown. Meanwhile his contract was terminated by Dior, and he sued for breach of contract and won - I believe - 60francs. With that money, Him, Pierre Berge and Victoire founded the Yves Saint Laurent House.

[@thirdrailelectrocution]

SHOES of the rebellion

[@ah5721]

The beading reminds me of Indian beading and I can't help but wonder if Yves St Laurent got inspiration off of Indian traditional beading ..

[@TheSouthernMensch]

Cool

[@Ardna53]

If only these pieces could talk!

[@amyfrosty]

Lovely video, couldn’t quite get over the pronunciation of his name though 😬😬😬

[@irenedavo3768]

Not easy put Zip in that!

[@dandykema1090]

I think it was Lee Radzwill's

[@belleringr6377]

Magnificent(similar the men’s clothes, Kinda like a Cool woman!)😎🤘

[@peggylee6086]

No wonder the coral is endangered and the use of animal fur for fabric is indicative of the mindset at the time. The designs are beautiful though.

[@schamberlain1]

The hawk tuah

[@TinganHamada86]

Video 👍

[@fifthavenue8505]

What is the story? Use of such differing values for plain bodice and slightly incongruent skirt serve to divide the figure in an unflattering way.

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

You just don't have the imagination to understand genius... Think silk lined jewelry box. Full of gems...

[@coma-body-stilllife]

More of a bolognese dress than a polynesie dress - with love

[@vamuseum]

I wouldn't eat it if I were you

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

​@@vamuseum Dismissing true genius... It's just sad.

[@sidviscus]

I was shocked when she said the dress is from the 60s because, at first glance, I thought it was made today. It's astounding how the techniques of haute couture have always been the same and that it never goes out of style.

[@Cycology_Major]

The entirety of this style screams 1960’s. It shall stay there, too 😵‍💫

[@TheHare-rv3hj]

I don't like that shoe with that dress at all. The shoe needs to be a simple heel in oyster and maybe a blocked splash of grey blue. The bodice needs to be the star of the show on that great design.

[@alanbirkner1958]

Thanks.Tina, Al's wife

[@komkommer22]

Looking at the thumbnail I thought this was a video about pizza.

[@jayneterry8701]

The silhouette reminds me of Pat Nixon . Would it have been her dress?

[@sashaqueenie]

Love the blouse but not so much the matching shoes. The shoes are quite hideous.

[@LibertyScott-x6i]

Omg. Coral. 😩

[@dav3has1nk16]

Looking at the thumbnail, I thought it was a pizza

[@vamuseum]

You must eat some gorgeous pizza

[@ninaelsbethgustavsen2131]

🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕🍕 Couture is clearly lost on you. 🤣

[@xochitlbk]

bruh wtf its made with coral?!!!