VAN BUILD | Plumbing System Overview

[@brianchetelat6601]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your hard work in producing these really helpful videos for us newbees out here.

[@stevehori673]

I love the Pex A system too. One pro tip, if you do have any leaks try hitting it with a heat gun for 15-20 seconds and it reseals itself. I think I expanded a couple of fittings too much and it caused a little drip. I read somewhere that for 1/2 inch pipe you should only expand 4-5 times. Also I used a hand held expander from Amazon ($99) which was super easy to use. Great video Jeff, as always love your how to videos.

[@thrivans]

Great tip. Heat gun also works well on the braided tubing.

[@StacywithaWhy]

Thank you Steve! The Milwaukee expanders are $500-600 now😬

[@nathalienadeau2723]

One of the best plumbing videos I’ve seen. Thanks.

[@thrivans]

Thank you. Glad it was helpful.

[@josephhenry8102]

Thanks for this video! I’m DIYing my own Sprinter and this is one of the best, if not the best, videos on van plumbing I’ve found and believe me I’ve watched hundreds of hours of van building videos. Again thanks!!!!🙏

[@thrivans]

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your build.

[@mikefranks4528]

Regarding PEX A (though I would recommend PEX B), make sure to buy the Zurn PEX versus the Uponor due to breakpoint chlorination issues. Overtime, the PEX A process (the stretching) will cause micro tears in the material which has shown to fail within 7 years due to leakage.

[@jeromebell4374]

Thanks man, this is great. Nice pace, not too fast and not too slow for those of us just getting started with building out plumbing.

[@ericturner2477]

I really appreciate how you think through all the little things to make the equipment robust and efficient, and then share it openly with the world.

[@bkk6211]

Nice setup you obviously put a lot of thought into the design. I would suggest adding the ability to run off of shore water bypassing your pump. You would need to change your inlet setup and your manifold setup. I would have thought that this would be a standard part of the system.

[@thrivans]

Good point, and definitely something we would add if a customer requested it. We just haven't seen a need from our customers for a pressurized city water connection, because most are on the move each day and not staying in traditional RV parks.

[@edgarmuller6652]

Great video, thanks for taking the time. Cleared up many doubts.

[@3BLADZ]

I’m finding these helpful even though I don’t plan to build my own. It’s helping me see what to look for in a build. Also shows how much time goes into these builds.

[@robbierobot2979]

Brilliant description - really generous to help the diy people and offer custom build options too - what a great bloke!

[@thrivans]

Thank you!

[@brianmoore4299]

I have watched hundreds of van plumbing videos. This was really well done and informative. Had a few new take aways from this one.

[@wagz]

Wow what a terrific video! Thanks for making this Jeff I've bookmarked it so I can watch it again. I'm doing a DIY build on a Unimog and I'm just now coming up on the 80/20 layout. Your plumbing tips are important for me as it means a slightly different layout. Looking forward to your electrical system video. Thank you! Subscribed.

[@thrivans]

Thank you. Good luck with your build.

[@mikedruzak3038]

Jeff, I love your videos and your ideas, gives me direction and confidence as I navigate my van build. I will definitely use your products.

[@thrivans]

Awesome, thank you!

[@thebg7532]

Great video and the van cave. Thanks sharing Jeff!

[@joniboulware1436]

Alot of good practices in y I ur build. It does seem like there is a lot of cabinet real estate used with set up though.

[@RustyCas999]

Appreciate your videos so much. It's great to have someone as a resource who *really* knows his stuff and is willing to take the time to share that knowledge. You and Greg Virgoe are at the top of the list.

[@thrivans]

My pleasure!

[@RustyCas999]

As for hot water temps, most of your shower mixing valves have a feature where you can limit the amount of hot water that will flow, usually a nylon insert that you re-position depending on the temperature of the hot water. I would look for a kitchen (and outdoor shower) faucet that has the same feature. Then you can safely use the hottest setting on you HW heater.

[@christosmaninos1570]

learned a few things here, thanks for the video.

[@bgzwlz5119]

Thanks again for your great videos! Your story about your van conversion developing a leak right before delivering it, reminds me of a rental property of mine that developed a leak from the 2nd floor laundry room 3 days before the tenant was to move in, and I had to work around the clock for 3 days to fix the lower level ceiling before they moved in. What a nightmare! Do you always put the plumbing on the drivers side or does it vary? Wouldn’t you want to have the plumbing on the same side of the van as the galley/sink?

[@tintinthepirate]

Excellent work, really enjoyed the attention to details, Thank you!

[@thrivans]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@scottqualls5640]

Best context I've seen yet

[@Zander5446]

Great video! Just a couple of questions if you could kindly answer please: 1. What size hole saw drill bit do you use to make for the 1/2" Uniseal? 2. What size hole saw drill bit do you use to make for the 6" Inspection Port? 3. I am using a Pex-A setup as well and seems all the manifolds go from 3/4" input to 1/2" output branches. So am I correct in assuming you are using 1/2" Nylon Tubing to pull the water from the tank and go to the pump, and then using a 3/4" from the pump to the manifold? 4. Any additional information you can provide on what you are using to attach the nylon tubing to the pump ( I see an elbow and hose clamp and then some kind of adapter to the strainer to go from a barb to threaded I'm assuming. Also the connection from the pump to the manifold, any information would be priceless! Thank you so much for making this video, it gave me the confidence to tackle this project head-on. Between you and Humble Road I have been so successful in my Van Build so far and thank you both for learning what not to do so I could learn what to do! Thanks very much!

[@michelleblanc4334]

he said he uses a 3/8" uniseal with 1" hole saw for hole. You cannot get a 1/2" i.d hose in a 3/8' grommet. the o.d on that hose is 3/4:

[@TeutonicNordwind]

New sub here, Jeff. This is fantastic! You did a really great job. The wife and I are waiting on our first PM (159wb ext) to do a build. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[@thrivans]

Good luck!

[@RolandOfGileadOnYT]

I've got the exact same waterheater, funny how you mention you like to use marine grade equipment for your van build, while the manual states its not meant for RVs ;) That said, excellent video as always.

[@crowlsyung]

Very cool, do you mind sharing some more details about the jig setup and the sealant you used for cutting out and installing the inspection hatch? I'm planning on installing the same one today!

[@thrivans]

We use Loctite marine adhesive. Here is a link to the jig we use: amzn.to/3S82bm6

[@supersize75k5]

Very helpful content thank you for taking the time

[@PeterDukettPeterD.]

Very good vidéo! Thank you from Québec!

[@wbhandy]

If I understood IsoTemp’s manual correctly, you can’t actually control how hot it heats the water inside the unit. The temp valve on the outside is a mixing valve, So it just controls the temp leaving the unit by mixing with cold water (you can see the included pipe connecting the cold side to the mixing valve). So you can set that valve at a safe temp and still get the same advantage of using very little hot water because it’s mixing with the cold.

[@thrivans]

Correct. Good point.

[@shannagachen]

Love the hatch idea! What type of sealant did you use and do the screws go through to the tank? Thanks Jeff :)

[@thrivans]

We use Loctite marine adhesive.

[@mausie1967]

Wow, thank you for this information.

[@dailydoseofaloha8083]

Love your attention to detail! Would u be able to build and sell that system. It will be easier for the DIYers. If so, how much? Thank you!

[@thrivans]

Yes. We’re working on it.

[@bdosborn]

P.S. you get the water out the Bosch heater, connect an air line to the hot side and the water will come out the cold side.

[@alexko2877]

thanks for the video, a lot of interesting things. Something I can't get, why not many people, who have shower builds, consider gas tankless water heaters? They certainly designed for the job, provide "unlimited" amount of the hot water, have reasonable price range.

[@Lapeerphoto]

Well done!

[@frankfertal7577]

Thank you for the video and it was very helpful. What fitting did you use for the Isotemp wast water discharge? I know the output is BSP and input is NPT but I cannot figure out the discharge. Your assistance is appreciated.

[@bikeninja956]

nice setup, curious what is overall height from bottom of tank to top of extrusions (above Hot Water Tank)..?

[@thrivans]

We make typically make our boxes 31" high. That way when we add 15 series 8020 bars to support the bed, it matches up with the bottom of the Vanspeed Capsules or Flarespace Flares.

[@bikeninja956]

@@thrivans I'm shooting for about that, 32" to under bed frame so that should work. thanks Jeff.

[@crowlsyung]

Thanks for sharing! I’m planning on a similar enclosure. Would you recommend adding space tolerances between the tank and enclosure? Or have you bfound it ok to fit the enclosure directly to the tank?

[@thrivans]

The only thing touching the tank is the aluminum bars along the floor and top of the tank. This allows space for it to expand on the sides.

[@Neoj-dl6tw]

Im not sure if this is a valid question new to the hole vanlife seen, but question is would you ever do an under carage water tank and if so how would you insulate it for colder weather so it does not freeze? Just asking cause it seems putting the tank under the vehicle would give you more storage space inside the van...

[@edgeofnothing67]

People do it all the time, if you plan to be in below freezing you will need a tank heater pad they sell

[@rogerkamp8817]

Thanks for the very helpful video and sharing your knowledge and experience. For the access door hatch, what sealant or gasket do you use to secure it?

[@thrivans]

We use Loctite Marine Adhesive.

[@mikedruzak3038]

I like the manifold for splitting, do you have a link?

[@YaNgGuY007]

Great vid, thanks for the insight, I'm definitely using this for my build! I have a question though because a lot of other videos doesn't mention it, but which line was used to run the water to the faucets?

[@thrivans]

The hot line comes out of the water heater and to a tee. One line goes to the faucet and one to the shower. The cold line comes out of the water pump to a 3 port manifold. 1 port goes to the water heater, one to the faucet, and one to the shower. Hope that helps.

[@YaNgGuY007]

Thanks, I understand that, I should clarify, what line do you use at the end of the hot and cold water ends? Do you use the Pex A lines from the system, along the side of the van, and to the sink?

[@bgzwlz5119]

Looking at the parts I’m not sure about the difference between the “outdoor shower mixer sprayer” and the “Aquor Marine Deckwash”? Would you install both on the exterior of the plumbing box back panel? You showed the Marine Deckwash in the video but I don’t recall you discussing the mixer spryer? Is it either/or as these serve the same purpose?

[@thrivans]

We run the hot and cold water lines to the mixer, and then connect that to the Aquor Deckwash.

[@fournier.benoit1993]

Is it a mistake? You said you are using 3/8 uniseal for 1/2 hose, did you mean 3/4"? Thanks for all the sharing.

[@thrivans]

We do use a 3/8” uniseal for 1/2” braided hose. 1/2” tubing has a smaller OD than 1/2” PVC, which is what the uniseal is sized for.

[@nebulight]

Have you done a video on an inspection hatch install?

[@thrivans]

Sorry. We have not done a video on that.

[@stuartveale2820]

Very Informative ... thanks

[@TeutonicNordwind]

Hi Jeff. I'm hoping you will still get notified and see this. If you drain the Isotemp water heater for winterizing, why is it necessary to add antifreeze?

[@thrivans]

You can probably get away without antifreeze. We do it as an added precaution.

[@sleepdepot9790]

I would not use uniseals for anything in a moving vehicle. I used them in Aquaponics and after a few years they start to leak.. I have seen many that crack. Just a thought.

[@thrivans]

We use 1 Uniseal on the top of the tank. There is no pressure, just some sloshing of the water. These are used widely in the marine industry, even on the sides of tanks. We are very confident in them.

[@sleepdepot9790]

@@thrivans I used them in aquaponics/Aquaculture and would not recommend using them again. For the purpose of installing it on top where it's not going to be submerged it should do fine as leakage would be minimal if it failed. Bulkheads is the best but may not be practical in applications where you can't access both sides of the tank wall.

[@brookestephen]

nice work!

[@mattadeyutube]

Loving the videos Jeff @OurThrivingLife. Do you think this system would work/be sufficient with both indoor and outdoor shower? 144 L2H2 Sprinter. Many thanks,

[@thrivans]

Yes. We’ve done this system with 2 showers.

[@mattadeyutube]

@@thrivans Great stuff, Thanks.

[@FreyjaVonSpiegel]

My question is how do you get the check valve on a tube you need to force through a uniseal

[@thrivans]

Good question. You push the tube through the Uniseal and pull it out through the inspection hatch. Then you attach the check valve and pull the tube back until the check valve is just touching the bottom of the tank.

[@FreyjaVonSpiegel]

@@thrivans next question. How tall is the construct? I am trying to determine bed height for that type of configuration and still be able to sit up on bed.

[@davidromero2690]

how do you attach the brass check valve to the end of the hose and install it thru the uniseal. I am perplexed, as i have used the uniseal and the larger brass check valve will not push thru the seal. What technique are you using? thanks David from Louisiana

[@mysteriomarvel933]

Do you have a schematic diagram you could post in a future video for both your water and electrical systems with color/key coded legends to help identify all the different parts and components used? Cheers and thanks!

[@thrivans]

Sorry. We don’t have that at this time.

[@rogerkamp8817]

For the hot water out port on the Isotemp, its 1/2" BSP male thread. Are you using a 1/2" NPT female to Pex A adapter at this connection or is there's a special adapter to hook up to the 1/2" BSP male thread?

[@thrivans]

Most of the units sold in the US come with a BSP to NPT adapter.

[@crowlsyung]

How did you guys install the 6" inspection hatch in the water tank? Did you find a hole saw that fit the cutout size?

[@thrivans]

We cut it with a router using a jig.

[@BrianMachtolff]

It looks like you are connecting the pex-a pipe with expansion directly to the hot water outlet. Do you ever have any issues with the pipe heating and possibly leaking? Your videos are nice and concise and easy to understand. Keep up the good work.

[@thrivans]

We have not any problems with leaking, but we are now connecting to the hot water heater using braided hoses with 1/2” FIP threads on both ends. We find it easier to make connections and provides a little more wiggle room.

[@JonathanLeys-x8d]

Are you saying you're now using this braided hose connecting the hot water heater outlet to your shower/sink "T"? @@thrivans

[@jeffmcrobbie5015]

On the heater, coolent system could I use that with a recirculating pump to do radient heating on the floor

[@thrivans]

I don't believe that would work. The purpose of the ports is to run hot glycol from the engine through the water heater to heat the water. I don't think the unit would heat the glycol, and even if it did it would use a ton of battery power. You'd be better off using a hydronic system for radiant flooring. We use the Aquahot 125.

[@lucmelanson5418]

I don't see an accumulator tank in the video. Do you have accumulator tanks to prevent the pump from pulsating on/off in your systems?

[@thrivans]

The pump we use does not require an accumulator.

[@curtjohnson8309]

With that water heater so close to the bed do you notice excessive heat making it hot for those sleeping? would it help (or be needed to wrap the tank in some insulation?

[@thrivans]

Not at all. It’s very well insulated. Plus, you’re not typically running it at night.

[@stephenforbes2762]

I just read that uponor pex a is failing and they went through a lawsuit because of cracking pipes. Have you experienced any issues with it? Do you know if they've done anything to fix the problem?

[@davidcrilly3697]

How are you mounting these components to the water tank without damaging the tank?

[@thrivans]

There is a platform above the tank where everything is mounted.

[@rdtw5505]

Will you ever start building out Transit vans?

[@thrivans]

We have done work on Transit vans. If a client has a Transit, we will definitely do a custom conversion on it. We just prefer Sprinters as the vans we purchase.

[@mikedruzak3038]

How do you drain the tank if you dont use any fittings on the lower part of tank?

[@fournier.benoit1993]

Do you install a bypass for the water heater to prevent antifreeze to go thru it? In my camper trailer there was a permanent 3 way valve with a tube to put in the antifreeze jug.

[@thrivans]

We have not done that.

[@fournier.benoit1993]

@@thrivans winterizing was a very easy task. 1. Drain the tank; 2. Flip two valves for the water heater bypass; 3. Flip the intake from the tank to the antifreeze can 4. Start the pump. Nothing to disconnect.

[@craftymulligar]

Potable antifreeze i hope you mean.

[@leilastevenson]

Hello! Do you know how much extra height adding your plumbing components on top of the over the wheel well tank adds?

[@thrivans]

Our freshwater tank is 16” tall. The total mechanical box is 31”, so the plumbing area is 15”. We have a couple inches to spare, so I estimate the height of the plumbing to be around 14”.

[@leilastevenson]

Thank you! I’m still in the research phase and your videos have been very helpful. I plan on the bed frame starting at 32 inches from the subfloor , so this fits perfectly. I found an over the wheel well water tank that is 39 gallons so this setup is perfect.

[@rodneymerrill7683]

What is your source for the mini pex manifolds? Thank you

[@thrivans]

Lowe’s or Home Depot.

[@adamsherman]

I really want to get a wheel arch tank for my 3500 that doesn’t have existing holes. Where do you source that?

[@thrivans]

Most come with 1/2” holes, but come with plugs for those holes. We get our tanks from Northwest Conversions.

[@adamsherman]

@@thrivans I believe mine came from them as well. I need to find the right plugs and seal up those holes for sure. I’d like flush plugs.

[@JonathanLeys-x8d]

I have a 170 Sprinter. My sink is on the passenger side & gray water tank on the driver side. Is it possible to run the drain line from the sink to the gray water tank in this set up?

[@thrivans]

Yes, but you need to make sure the pipe slopes downward from the drain to the tank.

[@stevsie]

Whats that manifold you guys use? Is it 1/2 nylon tubing to pex?

[@thrivans]

It’s a PEX-A manifold. We connect 3/4” nylon tubing with a clamp from the water pump to the input and 1/2” PEX to the outputs.

[@michaelperline-sw4sc]

Trying to use the Aquor shower but I keep getting leaks. It appears to be NPS (Straight) threaded. Can’t find a Pex-A adapter that isn’t NPT- (tapered). Is there some trick or do you have a source for the correct adapter? Thanks!

[@thrivans]

We use this shower mixer connected directly to the Aquor using the braided hose supplied with the mixer. We do 4 wraps of teflon tape and T Plus 2 thread sealant. Shower mixer: amzn.to/3wE2M71

[@michaelperline-sw4sc]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I meant to say I’m using the same Ambassador Marine mixer. It connects water-tight to the Aquor but the hot and cold inputs, connected to MPT x Pex A adapters continue to leak, even with pipe dope. They are NPS, not NPT. I’ve read that sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. They work with the Aquor NPT. Maybe I need a different brand of NPT to Pex Adapter.

[@robertmuckle2985]

Not sure why you'd loop your vent hose back down. Just make sure you go high enough to never have water exit hose, then it will always return to tank. Why would you want to risk losing your precious fresh water? Also, you're really wasting precious realestate with that pump taking up all that cavity. Why not compact all your components in the heater space, and free up an entire potential cupboard? I would also recommend an accumulator rather than the check valve which doesn't guarantee no cavitation and maintains system pressure always.

[@thrivans]

The loop is high enough that water is not exiting through it under normal conditions. People from time to time overfill the freshwater tank. In this situation, the excess water just flows through the vent tube and out the bottom of the van. If the tube was at a high point inside the van, overfilling would be disastrous. An accumulator does not do the same thing as the check valve. An accumulator is on the output side of the pump and maintains more even pressure to faucets and shower. Water pumps have a built in check valve, so if your suggestion worked the pump would do the job, even without an accumulator. But it doesn't. The check valve prevents water from flowing out of the pick up tube and back into the water tank due to gravity.

[@guitardoc99]

Someone pointed out on George's channel that the check valve would work just as well outside the tank but before the pump as it does inside the tank. Gave the example of putting a finger over a straw. Easier maintenance but I suspect it's good to have the weight on the bottom of the pick-up tube since they like to curl. @@thrivans

[@mikefranks4528]

@@thrivans Agreed. Your point is valid in that the one that posed the question did not consider the “consequence” of overflow which could and does happen with van dwellers. Well explained, sir.

[@jgb4482]

What size 8020 are you using? It looks like 1" and 1.5"

[@thrivans]

We use 1” for the cabinetry and 1.5” for the bed platform.

[@jgb4482]

thanks @@thrivans

[@MultiOutdoorman]

Why add antifreeze to a dry, empty system ?

[@thrivans]

Because it’s difficult to get all the water out of low spots, mixing valves, and the water heater. It’s a little extra insurance. I’ve seen mixing valves and water heaters freeze and burst in “dry” systems.

[@jmgraydz]

As someone whos done alot of pex. Stop treating it like copper. You are paying for alot of elbows for no reason, pex is sized smaller because it used less fittings. Let it curve naturally. Outside of that i like it.

[@scotttannehill3533]

you say the Milwaukee Expansion Tool cost arround $200, yet your link to the tool show it is $600. That is waaaay off! Were can I find the one you got for $200? I am building one van and $600 is not reasonable.

[@thrivans]

You can buy the bare tool for $219 - $300. Just google “Milwaukee Expansion Tool bare”That’s how I bought mine. The mandrels are separate, and around $30.

[@Iamandthatiam]

What none about food grade plastic on the hatch that will always be in contact with water

[@ginawhite3728]

I love this system however it seems to take up an awful lot of room, there's gotta be a better way

[@epicletterr4048]

Sad to say the expansion tool is nearly $500 now.

[@Iamandthatiam]

check valve in your tank?! I guess health isn't a priority?

[@thrivans]

Not sure what your point is. It's a lead free, potable water check valve.

[@bdosborn]

Dude, I think you're violating the laws of thermodynamics. 2.5 gallons of water will never take more energy to heat than 4 gallons.