Does this EDGE-BANDING TRIMMER work?

I hope this works. My old way is so slow!
carbide trimmer: amzn.to/3gJ76pR
carbon steel: amzn.to/3cOwXfg
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[@scottcurtis1887]

Hi Ben. I’ve been using that thing for years. I’ve found that if you take it apart and only use one half at a time and PULL towards you, it works well. A quick swipe with a sanding block and you’re done. Thanks for the vids. Love the channel. Scott Curtis Custom Carpentry Mt. Wolf, PA

[@craigh8023]

This tool is a huge time saver but I've found they vary quite a bit in quality. The better ones have a secondary blade the produces a tiny chamfer. CMT makes a decent one. The best one I had was a generic brand from Woodworkers Warehouse. I know... Not helpful. Sorry. The good ones will rarely tear out, even with alternating grain direction. The best technique I've discovered is to apply heavy pressure squeezing it together as well as perpendicular to the edge. You can break the edge very quickly with 220 by hand afterward (no block). Even with prefinished stuff. And just for the record, I've tried the blue one you linked and I'm not impressed. Also, thanks for the content you put out. I've been in the trades for a long time and always avoided drywall. You've given me the knowledge to actually do an an acceptable job when I need to. Although I'll never achieve your effortless speed. Show off. :)

[@richardandrushko2252]

I use these type of tools all the time.. I generally start in the middle and run them quickly. I start moving then squeeze a good firm amount. Moving at a quick rate.. then turn it around to finish the other half.. leaving just a miniscule amount to run over quickly with a file or sander. Give it a try.. I'm sure you will like the results.

[@fixerofthings]

Do you use quick set or taping mud on that edge band?

[@vancouvercarpenter]

plaster

[@gterry180]

As someone who did this professionally for years, imo the best tool is a sharpened scraper (2" Hyde or similar) followed up lightly with a file.

[@maxadrian]

Hi Ben, The edge trimmers are great when they don't catch the grain and rip a chunk out. I solved most of that potential by having two edge band trimmers. One I glued in a spacer the thickness of the edge banding so that it doesn't cut all the way down to the ply surface in the first run. It leaves just a bit behind. I then use the factory set trimmer and clean up the edge. I found that doing the trimming in a two step process gives me better results. It's like I'm sneaking up to the ply surface slowly.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Awesome idea :)

[@TavishCrowe]

don't forget to feather that plywood.

[@Ikantspell4]

Vancouver Drywaller dd a carpentry video? I'm in shock.

[@tedcook8749]

Wood banding gives me fits - I usually use a 1” wide olfa blade followed by a sharp file - gotta try this - thanks

[@olafbigandglad]

They work, but you still need to file or sand after using one.

[@StuartGeers]

a few of these I have seen and used are directional with a big arrow, if you use the wrong direction it gouges.

[@sicpac66t]

Trim excess of with Stanley knife. Use that tool to trim up and make sure your not going against grain as it can tear. Then I use a 1.6mm round over bit to finish

[@HotspotsSoutheast]

Carpentry? Who would have expected it? :) Maybe some wood filler for the tear outs and a little sanding and they will be as good as gold.

[@extremewoodworker]

I have both the Fastcap and Freud version of this trimmer and haven't had much luck on wood veneer edgebanding. They work great on PVC banding though. You seem to have gotten much better results than I have on wood but it looks like your banding is fairly straight grain. For wood, I use a climb cut with a trim router to do this activity.

[@TheBkdot]

I use one and run over with a Fastbreak Dual Edge Sander

[@frankpinmtl]

But how are you going to feather the edge?

[@lucasaimar6427]

@Vancouver Carpenter thanks a lot, just a couple of days ago I was unsure whether this little gadget was worth buying. Now I'll give it a chance.

[@gettin-stuffdunn6028]

…but will it or can it feather the edge???

[@tevman69]

You need to try that tool on your PM, talk about ruff around the edges. 😂

[@georgeobama-biden8670]

Like really really good, you guys - Ben Lol

[@alvinlos5729]

Hey carpentry! I love these tools too. Works wonderfully

[@NuttedInYoMom]

Loving the 80s dad look lol 😆😆😂❤

[@NuttedInYoMom]

Hey Ben, are you doing much more drywall then carpentry these days? I selmdomly see you do carpentry, I actually see u doing mostly drywall. But I'm not complaining, I watch you eitherway for entertainment lol

[@BStreet666]

Totally unrelated but could you give viewers insight on the best way to find reputable carpenters? Things to ask or look for etc.. Using Google seems to have its limitations and the websites that try to match you with one seem to be misleading for both parties. Thanks again for sharing your wisdom with KZbin. It is appreciated.

[@stephenholland6328]

Ask a carpenter, electrician, or drywall guy. They see the work they have to work on.

[@devonwainstein9188]

Use a file. That's how pros in shops do it.

[@dhammer5645]

That how I was taught!

[@ckaceritus]

a file? to cut off the excess? Or are you talking about after cutting away the excess to finish the edge? Why a file?

[@dhammer5645]

@@ckaceritus I was taught to use a file almost flat against the panel and file the excess off with it. The file cuts vinyl and wood edge banding. It will aslo get into a corner if needed that the tool shown will not.

[@ckaceritus]

@@dhammer5645 interesting, so if I’m following, the square edge of the file is the part doing the cutting, and then the teeth of the file follow to clean up the cut? I’d love a video of this technique.

[@dhammer5645]

@@ckaceritus that's effectively it yes. A finer file works best on vinyl, a little coarser works nice on wood edge banding. If the coarser file leaves a bit of a rough edge then a few swiped with some 220 grit sand paper or high usually takes care of that. You could try and Google to see if you can find a video on using a file to trim edge banding, there might be one out there some where. Here a link I found. Didn't watch it but if the thumbnail is any indication it should be decent. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/d36maaB8e9eMors

[@daytimedreaming8307]

@Vancouver Carpenter, nice when you premiere new tools, never know when someone of us may need one. And huge thanks to you for all the drywall vids - I've been able to do 2 rooms and hallways bc of the way you teach. From taping to skimming, muds to use etc. Much appreciated bc I'd of had to hire someone...

[@vancouvercarpenter]

You're very welcome!

[@packers45678]

@@vancouvercarpenter make videos of the custom built ins you do!! I have some coming up I’d love to see how you do it

[@ericliddle7556]

I've tried another device like that and wasn't too stoked. Recently I've been using a router with a flush trim bit. To prevent the bearing from leaving marks I lay a piece of tape on the plywood first so the edge banding is a little proud, and finish with a very light sanding. Works great when using hardwood for edge banding too. Can't claim genius to this idea as I saw it in another video...if I can find it I'll link it.

[@ericliddle7556]

@James Hendel Are you saying you put tape on the base of the router? Because what I'm talking about is the surface of the material being marred by the bearing on the flush trim bit.

[@johnschutt9187]

So, it's also brand new and sharp (I assume.) What happens when the blade gets dull?

[@murrad01]

Hey Ben, great videos. How a about a closet project video?

[@pauletim7606]

How can i get this brand of edge tape trimmer am intrested to buy one for myself

[@kristiemosher8698]

I just bought one after struggling with a razor.

[@daffyd1155]

I love FastCap products.

[@robertgiresi9515]

No more "Feather the Like button"?

[@ds61821]

Well, I just bought the $1880 Festool handy-dandy edge-banding trimmer. Dang. And I use it just a few times a year.

[@bhami]

How long does it stay sharp, and how practical is it to sharpen?

[@soundman6645]

I sharpen mine ... it makes em work better .... see my comment above ...... Mine has carbon steel blades and it stays sharp a long time.

[@doublepoil]

Use only half the tool, do not do both side, you will have to redo one side anyway. Always go against the grain with wood veneer It won't work with thick PVC edgeband, an X-Acto chisel (#18) will do wonders where you need a perfect edge

[@mansfieldcarpentry805]

the orange one thats double sided is decent also.

[@chiebert290]

I take them apart and only use one half at a time. Takes twice as long but so much more control.

[@gbhfdh]

This is the right answer. Most times the grain runs in opposite directions from one side to the other. So running the tool down both sides at the same time, in the same direction, will create tear out on one side. Take it apart, use either half, and always cut with the grain.

[@wrobelmike]

Wood veneer is hard to trim with anything other than a fine file and even that can still tear out if you're not careful. I did edging in an industrial setting for years and that's how I was taught to do it. On my own I've used the same handy dandy tool on iron-on birch edge band and found that taking small bites (pressing lightly) and moving in both directions works best. This tool is fantastic for melamine and PVC edge banding, tho. It's super fast and works really nicely but I always follow it up with a sharpened Richard 6-in-1 tool to get right up to the material. There's a bit of a technique to it to prevent tear out on veneer but only takes some practice. The 6-in-1 actually holds a beautiful edge and it's nice and light but you have to make sure it's finely honed not to scratch the material. I put a slight rounded back bevel on it so it doesn't gouge into the parent stock. A wide 1½" or 2" chisel works too but it needs a back bevel as well to do the job nicely. If you do this often it's good to dedicate a 6-in-1 or chisel and take care of it. Happy edge banding!

[@GDOG520]

Edge banding... my kids favorite way to past time.... (peeling it off)

[@prozack1312]

I’ve tried a bunch of versions of this tool, and I’ve never been happy with them. However, the best I’ve used is the milescraft trimmer

[@philmacdonald2087]

I only use files, they work great. 8" Nicolson single cut mill file will do the job

[@sajadwoodwork]

Nice one sir

[@derpherpp]

That’s like 500$ of plywood

[@1943vermork]

Been using Fastcap for few years. I usually split it and only use half of it to get a better control. If your wood edge is thick and extend too much (meaning a lot of material to trim), be careful because you risk splitting and ripping beyond the flush line.

[@bradac56]

and you ruined it ... 1 minute in and it's in the description. Guess I don't need to watch the rest :)

[@blayne2029]

Really like your videos. But I would have loved to learn more about what edge banding even is :)

[@Titantitan001]

I always use the little pocket razor scraper and tape the edge of the plywood so I have a smooth surface to glide on

[@robertwoods2505]

I prefer pocket screws in the bottom front of the shelf and screw into a 1" or 1 1/2" flushed to the top of the shelf to add sag strength.

[@rml015]

Tough to beat a battery powered palm router with a flush trim bit for this job.

[@ds61821]

I can imagine the blade dulling and causing some mischief. But it looks like a good tool. I like seeing the strips coming off too.

[@stephenholland6328]

The back scoring is brilliant! The woodriver edge banding iron available at woodcraft is a better iron for edge banding than a clothes iron, especially if you are refacing a kitchen. For shorter pieces of edge banding I put the banding on skewed which makes tear out controlled, but you have to do each edge separately running opposite direction.

[@josephbreer4850]

What I find that works really well is a fine cut file. You use it like a saw and a knife, the best part is you file the edge at the same time and the edge can be rounded so it will take stain and sealer well

[@soundman6645]

As with everything, practice makes perfect. Getting the speed and "committment" right makes a big difference, but that varies with the material you are working with, plastic or melamine edge banding is much more forgiving than timber. Squeeze pressure is also one of those things that requires practice, but I think you have found that.. The right amount of inward pressure also requires practice and can reduce tear out. I have friends old enough to have made their own ... either blocks of wood that hold a chisel or a utility knife blade. I have one of the "blue ones" ... no idea the brand ... ya get em from any cabinet makers supply. they have both the trimming blades and a mitre edging blade ........I leave the mitre blades retracted on one side. Mine had carbon steel blades. THE BIGGEST improvement I found is sharpening/lapping the blades. ( like you would with a new hand plane or chisel) I use a small diamond file to touch up the beveled edges ( this depends on the design, mine has slots), then I lap the faces on an oil stone ....... it makes the running face absolutely flat and the cutting edge absolutely flush with the face. Of course with heavy use this sharpening/lapping needs to be repeated. OH if you are using the " washingday edgbander" ( you can use that one) it helps to rub down the edgeband with a laminate faced block while it is still warm, especially veneer ... the laminate block is good and slippery

[@soundman6645]

OH for finishing that edge, a fresh new Mill Bastard File, that has never been used for anything else is the go, gives much more control than a sanding block. Yes you do feather that edge.

[@TrolldaMeir]

"a mil on one side and 1/8" on the other" such a canadian

[@davidguy6408]

Neat tool that’s for sure, but do you never use a trim router with a flush cutting bit on it to trim the edge banding? I know your a makita guy I loved my corded makita one till it got stolen then got the battery dewalt one cause that what most of my cordless tools are and have to say cordless router is mint

[@vancouvercarpenter]

I haven't tried it yet

[@johnstewartrichards5922]

You may have more control by pulling with the grain.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

I've found the grain can vary through the length of the piece itself and also be different on the opposite edge of the same piece. I wish it were as simple as just going with the grain.

[@kendelapp8760]

Like 1943vermork said, split the 2 halves of the trimmer. As long as the grain isnt dead straight, one side will always have grain runout in the opposite direction from the other side. Split em, and then run in opposite directions as the grain dictates. That trimmer just has little plunger air springs so it pops apart easily. That’ll help a bunch. Except with the crazy grain-for that, splitting it, and using the HSS cutter version would help.

[@41DegreesSouth]

Honestly, I think for most projects, I prefer the ply without the banding.

[@squigglyphrank9348]

There are holes in it? Do you patch?

[@41DegreesSouth]

@@squigglyphrank9348 Yep. Obviously if it's for something people are going to see, I'm also buying higher spec sheets with minimal voids etc, so there's not much to fill.

[@pauli150]

The best thing I’ve ever used to cut down edge banding is a square edged file. Dig it in and keep a slight angle so it doesn’t hit the surface and just shove it along. You’re not filing it off you’re just using it to roughly rip it down. Somehow it works better than any of those banding tools does.

[@pauli150]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d36maaB8e9eMors this guy shows the technique, its especially good with wood banding.

[@pauletim7606]

Do you have a video how you made it work better

[@scocassovegetus]

I used the iron-on edge banding for a project last year, and used a piece of parchment paper between the iron and the banding to prevent any damage the heat from the iron might cause, worked great.

[@RK-ys7xm]

Great tip!!!!

[@evictioncarpentry2628]

Or find a friend that has a real edge banding machine and run it through. Does everything in one step.