velo fan motorcycle workshop ep4 | Velocette KTT clutch

velo fan motorcycle workshop ep4 | Velocette KTT clutch
Alright so a short video where my camera stopped recording as ran out of battery so you are missing the remaining work to put the bike back together including adjusting the gearbox position for chain tension as undoing things loosened the primary chain massively, then also re adjusting rear chain.
This work was necessary although i was a little scared to get into a velocette clutch but it was fine and the same as the one i took apart on my kns restoration project.
I needed to investigate why my clutch would not adjust to a usable clutch, it was either slipping when i was on the throttle in third and fourth gear or it was dragging so bad it was very hard to push the bike, and bottom line is my bike was hard to start whereas when i bought the bike it was first bump every time, i guess i hadn't noticed the bike was becoming harder to push for the bump due to clutch drag.
This video will also be followed up by an onboard video to see how the clutch is now performing.

[@neilfoddering921]

Very interesting and useful video! My KSS is still off the road, since I’m still in the process of re-wiring it and sorting out (hopefully) minor issues before I start it for the first time. I’ve removed the Miller cartridge voltage regulator from its box which sits on the dynamo, and installed a DVR2N solid state regulator in its place inside the box. I’ve bought a service exchange dynamo from Rutland Dynamos, so with LED bulbs replacing the originals, I hope to have decent lighting. I’ve had to modify the wiring loom, which is for later models which have the regulator and horn in different locations from my KSS, but it’s going to be better than the existing wiring, some of which had decaying rubber insulation. The other issues I need to sort out are the decompressor, which doesn’t lift the valve. This MIGHT be due to an Allen screw having been fitted (not by me!) in place of the correct valve lifter retaining screw in the cylinder head, according to Peter Miles. It could be restricting the range of movement of the lifter, since it engages with a groove in the lifter. The correct retaining screw has a thin, unthreaded protrusion on the end to engage with the groove, which the Allen key may lack. I’ve ordered the correct pattern screw from VOC spares, so I should know this week. I hope it’s that simple, because the other options require stripping of the head. No thank you. The exhaust pipe shows signs of blow-by at the exhaust port end, and the nut isn’t screwed home for some reason. That needs investigating. Peter recommends plumber’s silicone tape on the threads to help sealing, by the way. Anyway, back to the clutch. Is there going to be a concluding episode showing how well it works after you’ve sorted it out? Also, I’ve wanted to ask you: is your clutch heavy when you pull the handlebar lever? I seem to remember that my previous KSS had a light pull, but this one feels as though it has super-heavy springs or something.

[@velofan.]

yes indeed a follow up video onboard the ktt with clutch work done will follow, i filmed it the same day i did the work but somehow deleted a huge section of the ride where i basically talk all about the different things i tried before i concluded my hard starting was due to the clutch. I think this is easier to detect on a kick start bike as you feel it slip when trying to start. I will either post the video as is or go ride again and try remember what i was going onabout for at least 20-30 minutes. If i dont bother it will make a shorter video which is always good but does not explain my hard start experiences to date. The clutch lever is not heavy in my opinion, maybe you cable needs oiling who knows. or the angle it exits the gearbox is restricted on oil tank not sure. sounds like the kss is progressing nicely though, and going solid state regulator hidden in the old housing is exactly what i did to all my previous velo's that had electrics, its a no-brainer.

[@JamesBegley-rq8hd]

Hi, I have a velocette mac 1953 spring frame and my kick start is slipping when I try to start it not turning engine over. I havecreplaced all the metal and cirk plates but unsure what is going on any ideas. Thanks James

[@velofan.]

@@JamesBegley-rq8hd have you tried adjusting the clutch via the method set out in the red book. Maybe clutch springs are incorrect for the particular clutch you have. They do come in different lengths and different number of springs required on the different clutch types across the Velo range.

[@JamesBegley-rq8hd]

Hi thankyou so much for your reply. I stripped thê clutch today and think i will take your advise so i gave ordered a set of cluth springs because everything else looks ok. Thanks again.

[@velofan.]

@@JamesBegley-rq8hd if no joy find me on Instagram and we can message directly and sort it out. ktt_velofan on Instagram

[@majorscope]

Is that a bronze head MK1V?. We always put two rubber bands around the clutch on assembly. Works well.

[@velofan.]

Indeed it is. Well spotted on the bronze head as not all MK IV KTT’s have the bronze head and mine is covered in castor oil so not easy to spot. And yep rubber bands would work well. I do have some rubber bands but none were quite right. Either too small diameter or big but not strong enough.

[@Nigel-gx7vc]

Hi - you ride the same roads as me ! Fancy a ride out sometime ? I have a Mk 1. Cheers !

[@velofan.]

would be great, and maybe even better if i ever get my mk1 kns on the road to ride together, less noise and can idle or should be able to. If you find me on instagram if you have it message me. iam ktt_velofan on instagram.If you dont have instagram iam sure we can figure something out somehow, surprised if you that local to me our paths have never crossed being fellow velo owners of the old stuff. Not many of us around.