Hi, I have a velocette mac 1953 spring frame and my kick start is slipping when I try to start it not turning engine over. I havecreplaced all the metal and cirk plates but unsure what is going on any ideas. Thanks James

Nice work Sir! Perhaps giving an overview of remaining major jobs on the bike would be useful to give a sense of where the finish line is? I'm still having issues with my 54 MSS. Had it out and about a few times but not happy with engine misfiring. Nothing I've done with the carb (new Amal 920 Concentric Premier) seems to affect it (jets all cleared, checked slide/pilot/needle/main jet sizing; Air control/mixture adjustments make no difference; Different sparkplugs). Just gone through the valve and ignition timing checks and need to test ride it again. Misfires most noticeable just off idle on throttle position, but only when bike is driving/loaded, not when in neutral. If I open throttle rapidly past about 1/4 open, misfires seem to be avoided...but found at higher rpm/wider throttle openings they are still there, just less noticeable. Bike has the new electronic BTH magneto with an external coil unit. Have fitted a fresh 8mm HT cable as 6mm one on the bike looked a bit worn from rubbing in places....maybe it was shorting to ground at times. Other lower priority items: A small seep of fuel somewhere near the rear of tank where it wraps over the frame...could not locate it with the soapy water & air pressure method...will try using talcum powder and putting some fuel in to watch the powder change appearance. Loosing fork oil out the tops of the lower fork castings....a not uncommon issue I've learned, as the soldered joints can crack. Correct fix is to heat/remove all old solder and re-do it, then re-paint. Have heard about a lesser approach using a bit of air pressure and soapy water to visualize the leak point(s), then apply slight vacuum, run a good degreaser (meths/acetone etc) through cracked areas, then apply a Locktite bearing-hold product with a little vacuum to draw it into crack. Apparently owners report this solution lasting a decade or more...

Welcome back. Bike looks great!

Great to see a new video from you...been a long wait! My '54 MSS been with me since April but have not had it sorted yet. Initially had very bad clutch grabbing no matter what I did to adjust and even taking it all apart and back on. Had some guidance from a local Velo guru on things to check....one to check steel plates for any warpage. They looked fine visually ok but placing on a granite countertop, pressing one edge would lift the other side a few mm's off surface. Managed to gently bend them little by little, checking again and again until no lifting all round edges of each plate. That made a big difference on the heavy grabbing/stalling of engine etc. There is still very light grabbing, can feel it when having clutch held in and selecting first...bit of a pull/rpm drop. Had bike around the neighbourhood a few times and biggest issue is much difficulty selecting neutral, either moving or standing. Seems very lightest of selector lever movement will just skip straight to next gear most times. This means I need to be using clutch at most stops and low speeds, which likely overheats the plates and may be warping them again. Trying different primary belt tensions to see if that helps. Might need to take GB apart and inspect things. Good news is she fires up quite easily, assuming I have the piston in correct point of cycle prior to the mighty kick. If your clutch is making odd sounds at bump-starting...could it be the plates are a little sticky, not freed prior to rolling? So even if clutch held in, springs not able to free plates fully until you've rolled it some? Remember the velo needs a few turns to fully "peel" the plates away from each other. As for the theft issue....those "Air Tags" can be for Apple and Android now. They work by sending out signals to anybody's nearby phone, which relays location to the network and your phone gets the location over network. You can set your own phone to alert you if there is an unfamilar Air Tag nearby you that is "following" you about....indicating someone has placed a tracker on something you own, like car or bike. Range on a tag is at least a good 400 or 500 meters, to anyones cell phone nearby. Basically crowd-sourcing infrastructure to reach the cell network.

i swear i saw you the other day at sainsburys, had a gopro and searched and very similar bike green wheels?

As for the DGR, I don't want to ride with so many modern and retro bikes. My idea off a great ride is to hit the Lincolnshire Wolds or the Peak District on an old bike either on my own or with 2-3 other similar sorts. Like you say in this video, I fuckin love it when you get a cammy on song and open it up. There's no greater thrill in my mind.

Turning dreams into realities? Being able to ride pre war race bikes. The fastest 350's when one cylinder ruled the race track..........

I'm just about to return a 1934 KSS to the road. Devoid of all electrics and lighting. Close ratio box and a straight pipe. I can feel the andrenalin rush in your videos! I'm a motorcyclist not a biker. Biker IMHO sends out the wrong impression to people who see many modern day motorcycle riders breaking the law which to me, seems to be all they want to do these days. I only ride old Brits because they require fettling and fine tuning to keep them on form and Japs/Itallians do nothing for me. 70mph on a modern bike is easy but piloting a K series Velo up to that speed gives an adrenalin rush no Jap rider can ever experience. I am an enthusiastst through and through. Like you, I won't entertain groups and gangs and attend only bike meets that old Brits get to. I don't want to be associated with the front wheel in the air, ninja, law breakers out there and have nothing at all in common with them. Just bought me a chest mount camera and a mount for the side of an open face helmet so I can shoot video with audio like this.

Re-watching tis now that I have my 1st velo '54 MSS. It had clutch issues where I could not get it to release when pulling lever in and did many clutch adjustment "drills" to try to correct it , but now I've stripped the primary apart to better assess things. Found the shorter 7/8" springs were fitted by previous owner, even though the later bikes with 9=plate clutch packs should use the 1-1/8" spring set. Also found damage on the roller bearing cage....gouges and a deep impression where looks like a bearing had jumped out of place and been pressed into the brass material. So new parts on order. Just a thought, would it be better to assemble the frying pan, hemispherical spacer, bearing cage/rollers, flat spacer all together on the bench, maybe with a rubber band around to hold together before placing the whole lot on the vertical side of the gearbox, removing the rubber band afterwards? Avoids having the place rollers one by one with risk of losing some to the gods of chaos ;-)

xcuse my saying you have used a yerminology which confuses the isue Velos 1925 KModle had the infomous Frypan clooch yours is later gate type c29/26 for your infoBruce Main Smith reproduced the 2/ spares lists there was a SPlist for the Ks 1925 which i have not found yet thereare no ilustrations.ttfn&ty

Ive got a MK1 KTT too. Just got it back on the road. Great bike!

At 14:20, the device you can't remember the name of is the enrichment device, designed to richen the mixture when on the track at full throttle 😀

What camera/mic set up is that you're using? I need one.......

Excellent to watch, I've a 1960 mk2 clubman venom , watching this I want to drag my bike out 😊

Love the bike , best sound, looks a lovely part of the World 👍. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 iv got a MSS

Is that a bronze head MK1V?. We always put two rubber bands around the clutch on assembly. Works well.

Nice to see where I grew up! Need to get my full test done and find some time to get down there again.

I wash my petrol since Esso stopped selling ethanol free. I have a forty litre chicken drinker which is just a large water container with a funnel shaped spout underneath that makes draining off the water easy. I have tested the fuel afterwards and it appears to be completely ethanol free but you do have to leave it for a week after mixing to make sure all the water settles out. The KSS runs fine on the results.

Hi, ref. your reply. I used to have about nine velos but have slimmed it down now. We have built replicas of MK V1, MK V11, MK V111, works 500 single knocker etc etc so have a bit of experience with velos. Bought my first one in about 1965 ish.I just sold an ex race 1928 MK 1, very quick, a lovely unrestored 1938 MOV and still have an MOV i rebuilt from scrap about thirty years ago. Velos are great bikes. Regards.

Hi, I have a 1927 model K, completely different machine to yours. I also have a MK 11 KSS i built myself. Beautiful machine to ride and another one i have almost completed from starting with a frame and logbook.

If the carb doesn’t idle just add a damper screw to the throttle twist grip. Just to give it some resistance. Bike sounds lovely.

Great bike lovely sound. When I was a kid in the 50s my late father had a KTT, MAC and MOV, sadly all gone now. At 16 my 1st bike was a Honda 50 Sprint, after 3 months the kickstart shaft snapped off and dad taught me to bump start it! My last bike was a 1952 Royal Enfield 500 Twin, it had a tensioner screw on the throttle grip which I adjusted so the throttle stayed open when giving right hand signals so the bike didn't slow down.

But wait a minute.... not showing or giving an introduction to the bike before you ride it..... Is inexcusable!

DUH! I'm WRONG....re-watched the Alan Glen clutch video and now see I've misunderstood how it works. The Clutch spring holder is a separate piece than the spring compression collar (which is what you torque up fully). Its this holder piece that threads into outer plate and is critically adjusted to set the require free play in the thrust pins. ***WRONG STUFF***: Hi again. Been reading up on velo clutch setup, both in online workshop manual and a service book from R.W. Burgess, who was one of top guys at factory. The sleeve gear nut, aka clutch spring holder, that goes over the springs should only be turned down til it stops, then backed off 20 or 30 degrees, not torqued down as you have done. This sets the critical free play of the thrust pins. If too tight, it will load the thrust bearing constantly instead of only when pulling the clutch lever. That will also give a slipping clutch. The later bikes have a small plate that screws into the spring holder face, with a tongue pointing inwards to help prevent the holder from moving under load. I linked a video from Alan Glen in previous comment here showing his procedure which closely follows what books seem to say. ****

I think…I’m only 51 but back the day, the coasts would have had the influx of bikes before the rest of the country…my guess. When I read my chat rooms a large portion of the gents are from the east coast and the south east coast with a few from the west and scattered from there. As for the Japanese muscle…it has exploded! I ran and raced: KZ, Z1, H1, and oil cooled GSXR 1100 for many rears. Following sales over the years on those bikes they are off the chart now. After purchasing Brit bikes I don’t think I’ll ever go back to anything else. British bikes are just beautiful to look at and they all have a personality that is unmatched plus they leave their marks everywhere. Stay up on two till next time.

Punctuation might be off…tired.

“The big three” seem to be some-what common place over here furthermore ; parts are readily available…I have no problem finding parts for my commando and my 66 Lightning. The 46 is more of a challenge. I have a mate who has a Vincent Rapide plus an Ariel Square which of course, are much harder to find parts but has over the years. The central part of the country in my experience, can be, more of a challenge to find folks who ride old Brit bikes compared to the east/west coast. Others reading this chat might offer more insight to this. Harley Davidson, Indian and the big four are of course more popular until you show up on and old Norton, Vincent etc…and “steal the show” as they say. I was out about two months ago with a friend on our Nortons…750/850 when a much older couple pulled me aside to tell me “its nice to see something other than Harleys on the road around here”. Prices from what I’ve seen have dropped slightly in part to the younger folks maybe shying away due to the maintenance end of the spectrum…I don’t know? I have seen many good deals around but my garage is filled and the “Spousal Unit” says no more for awhile😂😭😭 ride safe.

No worries mate👍I would love to have Manx myself. I have a 73 Commando that is sorta setup like a cafe racer just higher bars on it since I have not the best wrist. Not much in the way of Old Brit bikes here in Nebraska. I am lucky to have a huge British bike dealer and parts store in nearby Marne Iowa…Baxter Cycle. I also have a few older friends with British bikes of many various makes which makes for a good time and folks to help me wrench when I need a hand. Keep up the great videos. I too would love to have a bike such as yours but not easily accessible as it is over on your side. Cheers.

It’s not a Manx…sadly. It’s a 46 Model 18 set-up like a Works racer though. She’s a blast to ride.

So bad ass! Can’t Wait to thrash my 46 model 18 this coming spring.

No complaints on the "no voice recording" thing...actually found this most mesmerizing to just take in the audio and visuals of the trip.

Hi, nice to see an old velo being worked on. One interesting point, I have a cammy KSS MKll and my clutch, which is otherwise the same as yours, has correctly only 16 springs. It occurs to me that the spring carrier you have may be from a later 500 velo? They are the same and screw in the same but have 20 springs in them which is a bit of an overkill for a '29/30 350. Of course, I could be wrong.

Thanks for this useful detail on clutch setup. I've watched Alan Glen's Velo 5 speed GB conversion video part 7 where he details his method of clutch assembly & setting up...link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6bVcox_f8x0rbsfeature=shared That's on a post war MSS so likely some differences in the clutch, right?

Great to see more progress on the KNS looking forward to the next episode 👍

Lovely bike. Sounds fantastic too. My uncle had a KTT in 1943.

Hi again VeloFan. Just wanted to let you know your video's have had a fair impression on me. My hunt for a Velocette is nearing its end as I have now sold my modern Triumph Bonneville and have a load of cash burning a hole in my pocket. Got several Velo's in my short list...all UK based so it will need to be a long distance transaction with big shipping/importing expenses. Leaning to the 500 MSS bikes with sprung frame...possibly a Venom. Several in my price range at on-line classic bike dealerships. But one in particular looks quite inticing with several high cost mods (belt drive; TLS front drum; rear rack with panniers; turn signal lights front and back). Private seller, offered at quite a low price due to the current owner of 10 months having mucked up the clutch such that it will not hold, thus not able to start the bike. Doesn't want to spend any money to address, no more room in his garage and wants it gone. Would need to be some risk taken to make a deal, sight unseen. Any chance you have contacts near the Liverpool location that could at least check out the bike on my behalf?

Hi VeloFan...just re-watching a few of your Velo videos. Noticed in this one, the KNS bike does not appear to have frame rails beneath the engine? Is this a "engine as stressed member" arrangement? I have mention previous comments to you that a 1949 MAC bike forsale locally at a dealer has my interest. Well further study shows it has this "open frame" setup. Some velo folks are telling me this is not a good frame for these bikes...higher vibration and even engine casing cracks etc. That would explain why virtually every picture or video of any 350 Velo have the full cradle frame type. Your thoughts?

Wonderfull old race velo ,snaps along nicely 👍

Another great video! Apart from the reasons you mention, the reason why I prefer and ride motorcycles which are over 70 years old: 1). They’re generally lighter than modern bikes - my 1938 KSS weighs about 150 kg (330 lbs), and the 1927 version weighs about 100 kg (220 lbs) and was guaranteed to do 80 mph - pretty good for a 350cc motorcycle approaching 100 years old, which was noted for its “exhilarating” performance and superb steering; 2). They require more skill and rider involvement to operate them, but this in itself is more satisfying than having only to operate twist grip, gears and brakes, with more than ample power on tap. I‘d guess that your KTT produces not a great deal more than 20 bhp, but the way it delivers the performance is spectacular, and I’d choose it over any modern machine; 3). I find the old machines far more interesting and aesthetically appealing than anonymous modern plastic bikes, or the naked modern machines with grotesque styling and brutally ugly engines; 4). I find it really satisfying to use something which was designed and built nearly 90 years ago, and which provides a link to a time before the Second World War, when when our industries were still world class, and our motorcycles in particular were acknowledged to be the best in the world.

Hi - you ride the same roads as me ! Fancy a ride out sometime ? I have a Mk 1. Cheers !

My story is I'm late to the party...had zero interest in motorbikes up until turning 50. Came across a modern retro-classic air-cooled Triumph Bonneville one day at a cafe. I just thought it looked stunning with the bluing on the header pipes and all the rest. Being of British extraction but brought up in Canada, perhaps there was a bit of nostalgia and sense of pride in all things British. It stuck in my mind for some weeks after and got my leaning toward finding out what it takes to get a license. Took a bike learners course and had my license in a few months time...first bike was/still is, a then 2 year old 2013 Triumph Bonneville (the Steve McQueen edition). I've put 70k KM's on it in 8 years of ownership. What I love about it is that it is well suited for urban/highway and even light off road riding. I have had it loaded up with tent/sleeping bag/food/rain & cold weather riding gear etc and done 5-10 day moto camping excursions on it. Even took it across Canada some 10,000 KM's one Summer. Second bike is a true classic, a '74 Norton Commando. Had to handle a very steep learning curve to get it road worthy and keep it going in 5 yrs of ownership. It is a true love/hate experience. There are times when frustration builds and I have to just step away for a few days or weeks before resuming work. But the rewards are very high and immensely satisfying when it goes right. Thankfully, there is an extremely knowledgeably and helpful support base for these machines (AccessNorton forum) and all parts/special tools are readily available. Our local brit Bike club president has a '52 MAC 350 which has sparked a bit of Velocette Fever in me recently. There are two MAC's, both '47 hard tails with telescopic front end, that are on the market locally that have caught my eye. Bit concerned on a 350cc being able to cope in modern riding, esp on our mountain highways. If it were to be a simple addition to the stable would not be much concern but alas I can only keep two bikes in my current situation, and the it would need to replace the Bonneville and cover at least a good portion of its riding duties. Your channel gives hop a MAC might be capable, but now I'm thinking the 500 cc Velos should be researched....

I love riding. Countryside. Did go through a period of big bikes riding fast. I get fed up if weather crap. Not interested in image. Or racing. Just bikes. Now gravitating towards classics but garage full. It's therapeutic. It's a de stress pastime if you keep away from busy roads.

My 55 matchless is Karen carpenter. Your velo is keith moon 😂 Matchless does sound epic but that velo is bloody awesome thrash machine. 👍

Have seen a few good tips for using Ultrasonic cleaners....one is to place the items inside a plastic zip-seal or other bag, or even in a plastic/glass jar, then use any type of cleaner solution you like (water based or chemicals like acetone or even petrol) inside the bag/jar. Place the bag/jar into the cleaner with just water. All the sonic vibrations transfer to inside the bag/jar and perform the cleaning and you have less dirty solution to deal with later. Also reduces any nasty vapours filling the room when using better solvents. Might help with what you saw happening when items placed against the grill screen. Really liking your videos...keep them coming. Perhaps do one showing us the differences between your two Velo's and also some discussion on riding differences (especially curious to know what the 350's vs the 500 bike you had were & why you sold the 500?).

Finds these videos very interesting. I see you've got a cloth covered HT lead on the bike? I put something very similar on my Norton Commando (sourced from The Green Sparkplug Company in the UK). Looked great and was working fine....until I had the bike standing in the rain one day at a Brit bike owner BBQ event. I was the only bike unable to start up for ride home. Spent a good hour going through the usual checks for power, fuel...and determined no spark condition. Older/wiser folks standing about all pointed to my modern electronic ignition as being the suspect, though it had been perfect for 5 yrs, why would it up and die first time in the wet? Eventually all avenues were exhausted and I had to have bike taken home on a hauler. Sprayed it all down with WD40 to knock away the wetness and left it two days before more troubleshooting. Checking for spark, and they were all back. Put plugs back in and she kicked to life first time. So the EI was fine. I suspect the cloth covering on the HT leads was providing a short to ground....one chap reported getting a shock while holding the plug against the head while we were kicking it over looking for sparks. Makes sense if the wet cloth was conducting enough. Could be my method of having the cloth under the crimped on end fittings...might be wise to trim all cloth away from under the metal fittings when crimping. Also, carrying a small spray can of WD40 or other "ignition drying" spray on board in case of rain would be wise if running these HT leads.

Just found your channel yesterday and have set about working my way through your Velocette videos. Here in Canada, we've also just switched over to no more ethanol-free fuels. I own a '74 Norton Commando and an '88 Classic Mini, both carb'd. Not overly worried as all fuel lines and seals have been updated to ethanol proof types. Both engines seem to run just fine on the E10 fuels. The octane rating is only important when running higher compression ratios...below 10 to 1 should not be troubled by less octane. If you experience pinking under heavy engine loads, then go with a higher octane (assuming you are not over advanced on the engine timing). Main concern is storing the bike/car for a month or more. As fuel evaporates from carb bowls, it may leave a lacquer build up which can clog jets. Be sure to either add a fuel stabilizer additive and or fully drain/rinse out the carb & float bowl with something like brake parts cleaner spray. Also, either fully drain the tank or fill it to brim with fuel while stored for a few months to help prevent rust risk. There is also the option to line the tank with a good quality epoxy-based tank liner. Trick here is to ensure very clean/prepared/etched metal surface prior to applying the liner for best adhesion. Ethanol is a major issue for those bikes running fibreglass/polyester resin tanks (older Commandos for example), as the ethanol slowly softens the tank resin and it ends up clogging up the carbs.

🏃 Promo SM

I had a similar issue after a long ride, bike is hot. It wouldn’t start. I noticed my habit of turning off the petrol taps when I stop seemed to make it worse. As if the heat transferred to the carb somehow (heat expansion or made petrol evaporate of effect at least the carb somehow.) If I intend to stop/and restart, I don’t turn of the petrol taps, then restart seems oke, most of the time. Hey, but it’s still a Velo. If it doesn’t start just sit back and look at it for an hour or so untill it’s in the mood again to go :)

So far on our Venom I’ve managed on E5 (we do have non ethanol 101 racing fuel nearby) but that will give me one tank and can’t rely on that if taking a longer journey. I honestly don’t don’t notice a difference with the e5 98. Given the presence of ethanol when I put the bike away in the winter, I do drain the tank as a precaution. Whether it’s needed I don’t know. But have the same worries as you. I’ve avoided all ledges replacement additives as they were actually more trouble than they were worth. More blockages and sludge without an observable improvement in the engine which to be honest seems to run fine. Not sure if this is of any use to anyone but just throwing it out there.