Victron Multiplus 2 Testing + Closer Look

[@cleversolarpower]

Get this inverter (US): cleversolarpower.com/go/victron48V5KVA 🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com

[@roversberg]

super , and yes do one of the ess

[@sblock1111]

Great information for anyone thinking about Victron...Been running a Victron eco-system since 2021. Quattro 48v, 3000VA, 2 - 70A charge controllers, Cerbo-GX and shunt. Combined with 25Kwh of battery storage and 6800 watts of panels. Runs whole house flawlessly. Keep up the great work!

[@cleversolarpower]

That's a great system. Victron is good at visualizing the entire system through vrm portal and their displays.

[@istvanjanzso7698]

What is the average daily consumption of your house?

[@cleversolarpower]

@@istvanjanzso7698 10kWh per day. Thats about the average in europe.

[@fxm5715]

Great timing. I'm looking specifically at purchasing this unit right now. Much appreciated.

[@MrGeozac]

Nice testing,i have the same inverter. It has different efficiency according with load output, sweat spot is below 1000 watt.

[@cleversolarpower]

Have you found that the inverter is more efficient with loads under 1000W? There was nothing in the manual stating the power draw for 96% efficiency.

[@MrGeozac]

@cleversolarpower Yup you should try it , I guess the efficiency in the manual is the average.

[@Slimey78951]

hell yes regarding ESS. I would like a deeper dive into that topic.

[@atabetuatara]

Great video. Love the details & straight to the point style! If you can make a video about the Sol Ark 12K setup that would be great, although I know it's not easily available in the EU (or so I heard).

[@laurentsosson1739]

Hello and congratulations for the video I come to you for the multiplus can we use the ACin input not permanently on the network but just connect it to a 230V 20A socket (France) to just supply the ACin input to charge a park battery at night rate and use the ACout during the day to restore the energy to my electrical panel? because connecting the ACin to the network bothers me a little because it requires a lot of steps because if there is a risk of injection into the network it is necessary to go through a Consuel I would especially like to be in self-consumption and from time to time be able to close the multiplus with a source inverter in my prolonged absence and switch to the direct network laurent

[@cleversolarpower]

The AC-in will go both ways if you add ESS, which is essential if you connect to the grid. You setup your grid code in the setup and it will adjust to your local regulations. Check the manual on ESS if in doubt.

[@jamie7364]

I really like your videos. Thanks for being so helpful. Have you done any solar panel installation on asbestos roofs? I have an asbestos roof and have no idea how to secure the solar panels to it. I am in Zambia - lots of sun, but not so much tech support.

[@cleversolarpower]

Installing solar panels on an asbestos roof should not be done. Because you will be drilling into it. I'm not sure how the rules are in other countries, but here the roof should be replaced because you are altering the asbestos, this creates micro asbestos dust which is cancerous. Replacing happens in suits with masks.

[@raytwal1]

I've been watching your videos, very informative.. Can you please make a video about which inverter is good for Truck drivers who use mini fridge and 3in1 microwave 1200 W. What size wires needed if the inverter 8 feet away from the 4 batteries the truck have. Thank you

[@cleversolarpower]

Check my review about the powerqueen 2000W inverter running a microwave.

[@adassociates8235]

Hi Nick, what is happening of charging if we had (4) 12v 228ah in parallel and plan to to add (2) 12v 280ah ? Thanks for all informative videos👍

[@cleversolarpower]

Good question. I made a video about parallel batteries with different capacity. I published it a few videos ago.

[@Neceization]

@cleversolarpower is this inverter suitable for pure off-grid use in a remote cabin? Or does it have to be tied to the grid to work?

[@cleversolarpower]

Can be used off-grid and can be grid tied as well.

[@Andreas-q4q]

An ESS video would be really nice 👍

[@halilkacmaz6714]

you can’t directly multiply the AC amps by AC voltage to get the appearant Power, there is also a power factor. Basically you need to use AC power meter. Since power factor is 1 for DC you can simply multiply VxI but for AC since you are running a fan there is some inductive resistance as well.

[@comtoy308]

Nice work. Please make an ESS video 👍

[@JurassicJenkins]

Hi and thank you for this. Do you know if the pass thru AC is in sync with the inverter, this is important when switching from battery to AC and back. I had a big name 3600w solar generator which caused problems when switching even though it was 20ms on a 8000 btu window AC. Only happened when switching from AC to inverter and back. Thanks!

[@cleversolarpower]

I'm not really clear on your question. If there is no grid or generator power, the inverter creates its own sine wave. But if there is a generator or grid connected ,it copies the sine wave from there (so input and output is in synch).

[@JurassicJenkins]

@@cleversolarpower Hi, thank you for replying. 120V AC is 60hz. It’s a sine wave form. Is the inverter in sync with this? I ran into an issue with a all in one solar generator. About 40% of the time when switching from battery or to battery, it would cause my 8000 btu AC to draw excessive current which caused the inverter in the solar generator to power off.

[@satsan4580]

Could you please make a video like this configuration. 1. I want to run a 10 BTU A/C unit about 12 hours in the morning to evening. 2. Off Grid, 12 and 24 and 48 V, a/c unit (Which system is current is efficient and effective) 3. House use to reduce the electricity bill, and this configuration is just only for the A/C unit. You're making very useful videos. Thanks.

[@cleversolarpower]

1. depends on the power draw during one day. Impossible to say without your numbers. 2. for your high power application, 48V. 3. Reduce electricity bill? So it needs to be cost-effective. If you are grid tied and feed-in is 1:1 then you can use a simple string inverter without battery. If you don't have net metering, then adding a battery the size of your daily consumption can be worthwhile. Have to calculate if it's cost effective though.

[@jl9678]

Excellent vid. Thanks

[@MonsolaireMaxime]

Bonjour et merci de ton retour. Il me manquait l onduleur Victron, sinon j ai le cerbo gx le smart shunt et 14 MPPTs(75/15 100/30 100/50), tous mes panneaux en parallèle avec un onduleur Master Power type Voltronic pour basculer sur le réseau. Je vais m acheter le 24/3000VA pour remplacer mon Master Power. Avec la machine à laver plus le résiduel je suis à 2300 voir 2500W maximum pendant 15 minutes environ. J avais besoin de savoir si le multiplus était capable de les supporter vu qu il est donné pour 2400W maximum. Même si je dois traduire, j ai bien aimé ta vidéo et je vais te suivre. Oui très intéressé par la configuration, j espère que tu feras une vidéo la dessus.

[@cleversolarpower]

I don't understand french. Can you comment in english so we can all learn?

[@MonsolaireMaxime]

@@cleversolarpower Hello and thank you for your feedback. I was missing the Victron inverter, otherwise I have the cerbo gx the smart shunt and 14 MPPTs (75/15 100/30 100/50), all my panels in parallel with a Master Power Voltronic type inverter to switch to the network. I am going to buy the 24/3000VA to replace my Master Power. With the washing machine plus the residual I am at 2300 or 2500W maximum for around 15 minutes. I needed to know if the multiplus was capable of supporting them since it is given for 2400W maximum. Even if I have to translate, I really liked your video and I will follow you. Yes very interested in the configuration, I hope you will make a video on it.

[@JayZ-s4x]

Can you help me out i have 5, 12v lead acids at 35a. I want a solar panel that just tops them off would a 100-200w 5-11a solar panel with a mppt set at 60v do the trick?

[@cleversolarpower]

It depends on what loads you have attached.

[@angyp74]

Would be good to see something on ESS.

[@christopherbarker5016]

Is the 2W ‘search’ mode adequate to power a regular under-counter fridge? I’ll guess the answer is no, because most of the time the fridge’s consumption will be well under the 40W that you quoted as the minimum power draw for the inverter to switch on, so the fridge won’t get mains power; and not getting mains power it won’t ever get a chance to turn its compressor on periodically which is how it actually cools your food! Is there a way to make the Search Mode support a fridge running?

[@retrozmachine1189]

IF the fridge has basic mechanical thermostat the motor will likely draw enough current when it starts to prompt the inverter to enter run mode. However it will likely not draw enough current to keep the inverter awake. Without adding a parallel circuit in the fridge to signal to the inverter via one of it's inputs that it needs to be on, you could add an incandescent lamp in parallel with the compressor motor to bring the consumption up over the minimum required to keep the inverter in run mode while the compressor is running but that obviously burns battery capacity. If the fridge has electronic control, forget it. It needs continuous power to operate the electronics. If the fridge has automatic defrost, if it even has a freezer section, it may not operate correctly with intermittent power anyway since the timer motor is not powered all the time, although some fridges simply defrost based on compressor run time, in which case it will.

[@cleversolarpower]

Couldn't have said it better. Although i wouldn't add a light in parallel, this will consume power as well, so you are better off leaving it at default or use the AES mode where the sine wave is switched less, but can still detect a load. Newer fridges use electronic thermostats now which don't use a lot of power as well, so its probably not detectable. So regular mode it is.

[@Andreas-q4q]

How about grounding when the grid goes down. Do you need separate grounding from the Multiplus and how would that be wired? I assume grounding from the grid is available under normal conditions

[@cleversolarpower]

Wiring stays the same. When the grid goes down or you disconnect from shore power, the automatic grounding relay closes and the ground neutral bond will be made in the inverter itself. Check my video about ground neutral bonding for more information. There is a grounding lug on the case of the inverter which should be connected to the main grounding busbar.

[@Andreas-q4q]

@@cleversolarpower Thanks for the clarification!

[@retrozmachine1189]

@@Andreas-q4q If you are powering your house with the setup or operating your inverter's mains input off a house supply, what he said is not necessarily correct depending on where you are in the world. So how is your system arranged, and where in the world are you?

[@cleversolarpower]

@@retrozmachine1189 Then the inverter is not off-grid anymore. If you setup the ESS assistant, you specify the country you live in and the software handles the AC out to the grid according to the country you live in.

[@retrozmachine1189]

@@cleversolarpower You should look into all this stuff properly. You know enough to be dangerous.

[@PavolFilek]

THis is very good quality inverter. Problem is, if you have Linux, not WIN. If you measure effec. you have to go from 10 to MAX VA in 10 W incremens and at diff. ambient temps. FETs and toroids and caps. have different properties at diff. temps. Also at the poinit fan kicks in, there will be consumption of the fan. Fan could be betterr quality and placed on antivib,. pads. A lot of people change this fan soon. Also the is humming if fan is quiet and the is some type of load, like air conditioner.

[@cleversolarpower]

I'm sure if you have a linux computer you have a windows laying around 😄. I don't understand your statement of '10 to MAX VA in 10W increments' can you explain? Indeed, I've heard people replace the fan.

[@PavolFilek]

@@cleversolarpower Efficiency is a curve, from around 60 % at 20 - 30 W, to 95 % at 1/2 of MAX, to about 88 % at max. after some time. /to heat toroid /

[@davet9633]

Unfortunately the 5000 is not UL listed...no go for many as insurance won't cover residence without UL listing.

[@cleversolarpower]

Good comment. I have checked and their 48V 3kva and quattro 48V 10kva is UL listed.

[@JoeS322]

These units only provide full power if you are using a battery AND a generator at the same time. If you have a lot of solar you might get away with high loads for a short time. Found this out the hard way and they do mention it in the spec sheets but it is not obvious. You have to overspec seriously. I am not aware of any other inverter that has this very serious limitation. The units are well built but you do not want to be anywhere near them for extended periods - the low frequency noise emitted was pegging my EMF meter.

[@cleversolarpower]

I have to disagree. These units do provide full power from battery alone. Maybe your battery was undersized like mine was in the test and your generator made up the difference? There indeed is a humming noise, but these have been reduced (not entirely) with software updates.

[@matthewwakeham2206]

They are rated in VA which means the power output in watts will be less. For example my 1200 VA inverter is rated for up to 1000 watts. If your device has bad power factor it will be less than 1000 watts. Bad power factor means the inverter has to handle more current flow. For example for a power factor of 0.5 means a 500 watt load would require the inverter to move enough current for 1000 watts. Even though the load doesn't use all the power the inverter still has to handle the current which is the limiting factor for inverters. Another limiting factor can be undersized DC cables or high resistance connections which cause DC ripple which the inverter can detect and will derate it's output to minimise.

[@JoeS322]

@@cleversolarpower We had it connected to 8 batteries and we confirmed with the dealer that it would only provide full power if either solar or a generator was providing power. There was a limit to how much battery power it could draw. I do not have the spec sheet on hand, but when we expressed our dissatisfaction to the dealer he pointed us at the spec sheet and it confirmed this. The noise I refer to is not audible humming but low frequency EMF waves. I have tested a number of inverters and most generate noise in higher ranges but Victron's also generate a lot in the lower ranges and the magnetic fields.

[@JoeS322]

@@matthewwakeham2206 Most if not all other inverters sold on the market state output in watts. One has to do calcs to determine if the Victron can supply enough power whereas with others it is not rocket science to determine.

[@simon359]

My Quattro 5000 manual says it needs eight 100 amp hour batteries just to run it!

[@cleversolarpower]

Yes, if they are 12V 100Ah so they make 48V, 200Ah. Otherwise just two server racks (48V 100Ah). But then you won't have surge power though.

[@latortugaabides5556]

Too lazy to add a second battery so you could truely test the unit? Not much of a solar expert!

[@cleversolarpower]

Server rack batteries are not cheap. It would be nice if you could send me one.

[@ManfredBortenschlager]

@latortugaabides5556 Why this hostile tone? Not necessary!

[@ColumbusDixon]

@@ManfredBortenschlager Obviously just a passer by Manfred but like you, I get tired of people who don’t contribute something positive to the discussion.

[@latortugaabides5556]

​@@cleversolarpower How can someone presenting themselves as a solar expert not have access to 2 - 100ah 12v batteries ? You can buy two for $300 these days, but I'm sure you already knew that since your such an expert.

[@cleversolarpower]

@@latortugaabides5556 I recommend watching my video about 12V, 24V and 48V systems, even better; my beginners playlist. Because two 12V batteries in parallel don't work with a 48V inverter.