Painting Custom Screen Door w/Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint

[@erikeriksson4119]

This is something we have tested for many years. If apply the purified linseed oil first you prevent the pigment from going as deep into the grain as possible. This is why we suggest adding some linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil in the primer coat. We do not usually use the purified raw linseed oil by itself specifically on an exterior. By adding the linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil you also create a better grip for the Linseed oil paint top coats.

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Good description of the relationship - the oil and paint combination just allows the painter/craftsperson to work a little more efficiently to build-up the paint film. Once you oil wood, the wood often just gets thirstier, and a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil "primer" is a successful way to get the best of both worlds.

[@alanclark7325]

@@Earthandflaxstudio Good to know you say that. It seemed to me when me and a client oiled her garage exterior siding that we put many coats of Allback raw linseed oil on, and guess what, the wood would never seem to get satisfied. We'd just keep applying Allback raw linseed oil and wonder is the wood satisfied yet, and find wow, very thirsty wood. Seems like a case where the more oil the wood has the more it wants.

[@biocmp]

I really appreciate your videos and I'll be using some of your paints on projects coming up. One question: can we expect 8-12 inches of hair loss while waiting for the 2nd undiluted coat to dry? 🙃 Look forward to using linseed oil paint on my first project soon.

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Haha well, I sure hope not. If you are waiting that long, you are probably applying way too much paint per coat. Ensure relatively thin, even coats of LO Paint, in 60+ degree temps, and with good air circulation when painting inside. Enjoy and good luck with your first project!

[@shuitaoyang]

please upload more videos~~they are so helpful

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Working on a few projects now! Thanks so much and great to hear you find them helpful.

[@alanclark7325]

Yes this was a very helpful video. Sounds like a very clever idea to apply linseed oil paint thinned with linseed oil as a primer coat instead of priming with linseed oil by itself.

[@GreenBuildingNetwork]

Great video!

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Thanks! I've been trying to keep up with your new vids too - so much good stuff!

[@amandita108]

Really helpful, thank you! The door looks fantastic. I’m totally with you about the visible brush strokes - I’m not a fan of that smooth factory finish look. I’m planning to paint new kitchen cabinets with linseed oil this summer 🎉 As you did with the insert section of the door, would you also apply less coats around the drawer and door edges where they fit into the cabinet frames?

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Thank you Amanda! That is a great question. It depends a little on your drawer hardware/cabinetry design. Generally, there is not such a tight fit for cabinetry vs. exterior windows/doors so you should be able to fully paint the entire doors/drawer fronts but use your discretion based on the design. If the fit is quite tight, you could just do the primer on the edges or just wipe on the first undiluted coat and stop there. Hope that makes sense and is helpful. Don't hesitate to reach out via our [e-mail] email with additional questions.

[@dylanwilliams8765]

Great video, thank you! Unfortunately for me I didn’t find it until after I started my project. I didn’t wait the appropriate amount of time for second coat and now have a significant amount of flashing. Would you recommend I wait a sufficient time (24-36hrs) and do the next layer? Would this cover the flashing? Thank you in advance.

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Yes, flashing can always be addressed with another coat, as well as with some exposure, so don't feel like you have made a mistake. It is really just about adjusting technique to be as efficient as possible. So, always allow each coat to dry fully (generally 48 years or so but if it needs an extra day or so, allow for it as this longer dry time is a reason why these paints are more flexible in the long term) before the application of the next. If you are also seeing extended dry times, try to apply a little paint per coat. A little goes a long way and the application of relatively thin, even coats also helps decrease flashing and achieves the best dry times. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out via [e-mail] with additional questions.

[@dylanwilliams8765]

@@Earthandflaxstudio Thank you so much for the reply. I think it has sufficiently dried by now so I will apply another thin coat. Appreciate your help and all the great videos.

[@asatterfield380]

I'm painting 200 yo window frames which all painting couldn't be removed. The areas that were bare wood are chalky and areas with precious paint are very glossy. Will this fix itself with additional coats? Or should I use a few coats of raw oil on the chalky areas before painting additional coats of Allback paint?

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

Almost missed your question! Just caught it now. Yes, as you apply another coat or two, the paint film will build-up and even out the bare wood/old paint combination. Basically, the bare wood is very dry, soaking up the oil in the paint and creating a matte finish, whereas the old paint is acting as a barrier and there is no absorption so the finish is shiner. Just be sure each coat of your Linseed Oil Paint is fully dry before applying the next to efficiently build up the paint film to achieve an even finish. You can "prime" the chalky spots where there is bare wood with a little Purified Linseed Oil (if you are using Allback I would recommend their Boiled LO), let dry and then apply the final coat(s). Consider brushing on the oil, letting it soak in for a few hrs, and then wiping off excess before leaving to dry. Then finish painting. Hope this is helpful. Let me know what additional questions come up.

[@alanclark7325]

Neat idea to apply a linseed oil stain as a primer coat, then two coats of undiluted linseed oil paint. I wonder why one would do that instead of applying linseed oil and then three coats of linseed oil paint. Perhaps that saves one step.

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

I think you can get away with either approach certainly. This is the recommendation from Ottosson specifically and I do think it is a successful technique. The oil with a little paint, gets oil into the dry wood, as well as sets up a nice base to apply your undiluted coats of paint upon. Efficiently building up the paint film. Sometimes folks over-oil a wood substrate, not allowing for enough time for the oil to soak in deeply before painting and that can lead to some inefficiencies in the painting process for example.

[@alanclark7325]

@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks for the good reply. Good to know. Would you recommend this technique for outdoor wood, such as siding on a wooden garage or wood siding on a house, or wooden windows? Me and a client put numerous coats of raw linseed oil on her wooden garage siding, and we waited almost a week between oiling painting. Partly because it rained sometimes in between the oiling and the first coat of paint. I'm confident we gave the oil plenty of time to dry. The only problem was that the wood was so thirsty we spent all day, a little longer than an average working day, oiling the wooden garage siding. Now we've put three coats of paint on, and mostly it looks great, but there are some shiny and some dry areas still. We plan to fix those with a coat of boiled linseed oil.

[@alanclark7325]

@@Earthandflaxstudio So perhaps first coat being 70 % boiled oil and 30% paint can help prevent needing to put many many coats of linseed oil on, and not being sure if the wood is saturated with oil or not, and finding dry areas after numerous coats of oil and three coats of paint. How does that sound?

[@erikeriksson4119]

@@alanclark7325 Add some linseed oil paint to the purified raw linseed oil on all exterior wood surfaces. Wood need to be free of old coatings as well. One coat of primer is usually enough. You can apply too much purified raw linseed oil that can bleed out of the wood grain on a really hot day. This is not a huge problem. You can wipe it off. If the oil is coming out of the wood grain, it can bring some color from within the wood.

[@erikeriksson4119]

Stain and primer is mixed the same. Basically applying a thinned out linseed oil paint.

[@Earthandflaxstudio]

If you have your 3 coats of linseed oil paint, you may wipe the surface with some purified raw linseed oil to nourish the wood if it really dry. If the linseed oil paint is chalky, this means that the linseed oil in the linseed oil paint has been absorbed into the wood grain exposing the pigment. Discontinued the Allback paint many years ago due to it not containing zinc white from the factory. Linseed oil paint must have zinc white from the start. Making the customer add the zinc did not work in North America. We work with Ottosson and Viking Linseed oil paint only that have been made with zinc white in all colors. www.earthandflax.com www.solventfreepaint.com