Hobby Cheating 172 - How to Paint Colored Cobblestone Bases

[@coralinealgae]

15:07 I appreciate when you explain points like brush angle. It really is helpful information. Brushes are so spendy. I always learn something from your videos.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, I really try to dig into the details, because I think that is the stuff most painters who have been painting for a while just take for granted, but it's very easy to miss when you are trying to learn a technique. :)

[@TheLunchBreakPainter]

A great tutorial mate. I love to see people use alternate bases to just sand/grit etc... Once again inspiring great hobby 😃

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you sir, very much appreciated and always happy to help. :)

[@chuck-n-debtaylor7553]

...which is a recipe for sadness - and no one wants to bake sadness. Wow, from dark mortar binding stones together - comes profundity 😉 Great stuff, as always.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's always a mix of things you are going to get on this channel. ;)

[@dmbfool41]

You continue to pump out consistently amazing content. Definitely my favorite hobby channel on KZbin. Thanks for all the hard work! Now to find a new project to use this on...

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you very much, happy to help as always. :)

[@MrSJPowell]

It's always nice to see that I've already done something similar with my own hand built cobblestone bases, colors and all. I actually enjoy the look when I stipple with my drybrush using thinned paint. It gives a rougher look that I quite like. Thanks Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

That's awesome and yes, the rough spots like that can be great texture.

[@mattobrien4849]

These are just like the bases I'm doing for my goblins Vince. Those drones of yours are putting in some serious work!

[@VinceVenturella]

It's always tough to review so much footage...I mean...I don't know what you are talking about. :)

[@acrylicchemist1432]

Great tutorial! Scale 75 black leather is my new favorite in my rotations

[@VinceVenturella]

Such a great color.

[@WargamerShawn]

Very great video my good sir. Thank you for this. Making a cobblestone base for my Word Bearers that are a brown red, the blue base will help the models pop. Thank you so much.

[@RichterScaleStudios]

Great video and perfect timing! I have a 3D printed Kill Team board using War Layer tiles that has two 10"x 10" cobble stone section to paint up.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, this will serve you well and you can use any color combination really.

[@arsenmarek597]

Very good tutorial, clear and efficient, thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@LaurentsOfEldern]

Aha! I was wondering how you did your Slannesh bases ever since you started posting them. Thanks for the tutorials!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, this was requested frequently and I really like it because it's actually fairly simple overall.

[@13Robzilla]

Great video as usual Vince. If I ever open a restaurant the only thing on the menu will be the recipe for sadness!

[@VinceVenturella]

I mean, you also probably want revenge, but the issue is then it's always sent back to the kitchen because it's cold. ;)

[@davidhickman4976]

I'll be using this technique for my Bloodborne minis. Thank you Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Happy to help!

[@skunk12]

Great job as always!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. ;)

[@ColonelSandersLite]

@12:00 Have you considered an oil wash? With just a bit of technique, you can do all the dirt with no staining on the stones at all.

[@VinceVenturella]

I am always thinking about Oil Washes. ;) - In this case, even when you varnish and remove, it would still have some slight tinting and might not be as strong in the coloration of the cracks. I do love a good oil wash, but in this case, between the extra varnishing and clean up, it's just quicker to paint the color in. :)

[@ruberiusgadget795]

Hi and Moin from Germany ;). Great Tutorial thanks for that :). It's an eye-opener for me & really inspiring. Greeting Ruberius

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

[@neilw4827]

Hi Vince, Thank you so much for all the helpful videos. I have used your techniques a lot to try out different ways of painting and thoroughly enjoyed playing around. A suggestion for a future video - How about painting tartans? I have a Dacian army to paint so a tutorial on painting tartans would help me tremendously, both a quick method for the rank and file and a character model technique. Once again thank you for all your time

[@VinceVenturella]

It's a great idea, I will definitely add it to the list. :)

[@neilw4827]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, I look forward to watching it

[@DurpleisasweetpeaOwO]

Classy, as always. Thanks!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. ;)

[@finnpriest]

Very useful Vince as always. I'm sure i wasn't the only one wondering how you were doing those bases.

[@VinceVenturella]

Happy to help as always. :)

[@AgeofNagash]

Hi Vince, I commented on your photo in the Slaanesh FB group. Nice to see how you achieved the basing effect.

[@Wijkert]

I know you can thin any opaque paint enough to make it transparant, but for glazing I would say the more transparant the paint the better. Wandering if you considered something else over Adriatic Blue since that has white in it.

[@VinceVenturella]

100%, it's generally easier to glaze with transparent colors.

[@bartek_ewertowski]

How did you break up your base that you showed early on into levels? I'm planning to do sewer bases for my Skaven, with water channels running through some of the bigger ones, and I've been thinking about how to introduce the necessary changes in elevation (plasticard, mdf, cork?).

[@VinceVenturella]

Cork, cut to size, covered in plastic putty/water slurry to even and smooth, then sand and good to go. :) - Hope that helps.

[@bartek_ewertowski]

Thanks Vince! In that case I think I need to buy more Vallejo plastic putty for those big Stormfiend bases...

[@VinceVenturella]

@@bartek_ewertowski Perfect Putty will also work and it's a great deal by cost. - www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548630474&sr=8-3&keywords=perfect+putty

[@mistercocotte7239]

really usefull tuto. Thanks !

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bethanygraham427]

Lovely bases! Thanks for sharing. I intend to play around with this...been looking for a base idea for Deep Madness....I think this may be it.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

[@vb6805]

Great vid vince

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, very much appreciated. :)

[@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush]

Hey I was wondering how you use your texture of rollers, meaning do you use green stuff? Do you mix that green stuff with something else? Do you use sculptors Vaseline and/or another release agent? How thin do you roll your green stuff if you use green stuff, do you use guides? What do you use if anything to make gluing the textured roller stamp to the base seamless? Also, that rock #47... crystal brush worthy!

[@VinceVenturella]

Rob, I love you buddy, your amount of overthought is always appreciated. here is how i did it. I mixed some green stuff, i put a glob on the base and flattened it with my fingers. I rolled it flat with a glass spice jar I had sitting around, I rolled it out with water on the roller so it didn't stick, I let it mostly dry and I cut off the excess. :) I have also played with Milliput White, I like that very much as well for this. So the answer is do I mix with anything else - nope, though I have used Milliput WHite. Do i use a release agent - nope, I just dip the roller in my paint water sitting on my desk. How thin do I apply it? No idea, so it's about right I guess. I don't glue it to the base, I roll it on the base, so I don't worry about that. I am more of a path of least resistance guy with stuff like this. ;) Hope that all helps.

[@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush]

@@VinceVenturella When you lesson plan for living you tend to over think things as naturally as breathing. Rolling straight on to the base then cut the excess, brilliant! About how long do you wait to cut off the excess? What temperature is the room? How many licks does it take to get to center of a Tootsie Roll Pop... the world may never know. You need to sell rock #47 on e-bay with the starting bid of $5k. Love ya too buddy!

[@VinceVenturella]

@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush Makes sense, all your training is teaching you to be a good teacher and think of everything. I am going to work hard to undo all of that sir. That being said, a few hours until it's more solid. Remind me to talk to you about bakers vs. chefs at our class. :)

[@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush]

Vince Venturella I’m hyper critical of my own work and if I’m not satisfied with something it usually ends up in the trash or donated to someone. I really don’t care if I finish the knight within the two days i’m there to learn and specifically practice techniques under your guidance. It will take me from here until Nova to finish that knight.

[@Wijkert]

4:40 Pretty sure those are print lines and are not intentional. Every roller I used has them. The print lines are picked up easily by washing and drybrushing. If you don't like them, I have had good results smoothing those marks out using a color shaper. Also didn't take that much time. But if you are doing a whole army and you want to finish it in a reasonable time, than It is understandable that you leave them be.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, they kind of add a neat texture, so I was good with them. :)

[@Erikjust]

Question i have seen in a lot of your videos you are using makeup brushes. What is the difference between using a makeup brush and using a hobby dry brushing brush??

[@VinceVenturella]

The make-up brush is generally much softer and so produce a much smoother drybrush application. If you are used to seeing chalkieness and or drag lines of your paint from dry brushing, you can reduce that with a nice soft makeup brush (especially those made for contouring or eyes).

[@TheJankmaster]

How can you do a Z highlight/prime on such a low profile?

[@VinceVenturella]

So you do it directionally instead of simply from above. This is what I usually do on bases. So you do it in all black, then grey from an angle rotating the base to leave the shadows deep, then white from one angle across a singular area to create tonal variation across the space. It's not traditional zenithal since it's not strictly from above, but I am not sure what to call it other than Grisaille and I am not sure people would understand what I mean.

[@TheJankmaster]

Vince Venturella ok, got it...thanks.

[@TheAzeton]

I have few roller pins and always wanted to do something similar, thanks for tutorial (but can't imagine spending so much time on bases alone :c). I also have a question which is not related to this topic, about your preshading with wash and drybrysh, after trying I became a real fan of it. But how is better to implement it for models that have dark top and light bellies and such (like new Mollog, other troggoths, seraphon)? Thank you in advance, you are my hero!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad to help, I love bases and honestly, my concern with these is they are too simple. These count as fast bases for me. ;) As to the "light underbelly" creatures - which is also a big thing on dragons and similar, the key is just focus your drybrushing in the area you want to be lighter and set your initial zenithal into that area. So basically, instead of a traditional zenithal, I do grey at the standard 45 degrees, then do white on the belly and focus the drybrushing lightly on the scales and more heavy on the belly.

[@TheAzeton]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks! So white on the belly is also close to 45 degrees? Also if I want to paint Mollog in a similar scheme as GW (with black top) will it be better to not shoot any white over them or do zenithal as always, paint blues and then tone down those areas with ink?

[@TheAzeton]

@@VinceVenturella After rereading I've undersood the process (probably): all-over zenithal up to grey and white only on the belly and other light parts, right?

[@VinceVenturella]

@@TheAzeton Yep, we are moving from a Zenithal to a more traditional Grisaille, where we are using whites to set the brightest values.

[@TheAzeton]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you again!

[@ol_zoolicious]

Vince I’ve watched this vid many times, and (coincidentally) used this scheme on a base for a Keeper of Secrets that worked well with it. But I’d like to use it for my entire upcoming flesheaters army, and wondering what main model colour scheme is going to complement it best. Is your slaanesh army based with these a standard kind of slaaneshy purple? Obviously I’ll test/prototype, but keen to know what you did with it

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, with this specific color, it was chosen to compliment Purple/Pink, but most things would honestly work, it's desaturated enough it will be quite generally applicable.

[@joerundell8197]

Vince, love your videos. not a gamer, but a figure painter. Are you ever going to have a class in Denver?

[@VinceVenturella]

It's entirely possible. CK tries to schedule wherever there is space and desire (i.e. 16-24 people who would pay and show up). If you know the local scene and think there is interest, we can always work with Kat to investigate.

[@torbjornlindberg]

The madness roller, Lovecraftian perhaps?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, there is a octopus like thing and other symbols in some places on the roller you can use.

[@Wijkert]

23:02 Could this be a Star Trek reference?

[@VinceVenturella]

Like 50% of my videos are references. ;)

[@fredmulvaney7559]

Vince, can u get green stuff world rollers anywhere else besides directly from them? Looking for a little cheaper shipping option. Also not sure if u received the email I sent you. Just was wondering in case I didnt send it to the right email. Great video as always.

[@VinceVenturella]

I see we solved up the email thing, saw your response. As to the rollers, Michigan Toy Soldier has them here in the states and that is where I get mine.

[@fredmulvaney7559]

@@VinceVenturella that's great thanks. Definitely a useful tool to have in the arsenal. I've been wanting to pull the trigger but that shipping was a killer.

[@bencoomer2000]

Pet hair. The ban of my painting existence!

[@VinceVenturella]

Every day, every day, it never stops.

[@le_chimp]

4:05 i expected a pa chow :(

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, accidental, too much watching Uncle Atom. :)

[@lifelonghalo]

looks like cobble from a chrome city

[@VinceVenturella]

it does have a sort of chrome effect (it would need a deeper shade to truly effect chrome), but the oddity of it is what i like, especially with demons. :)

[@danieln6721]

Dog fur in the paint is a thing that always seems to happen...

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, 3 dogs sit in the office all day with me, so it's a fact of life. :)