Volt gauge vs. Amp meter how they work

[@perryburkhalter7189]

I like the way you tell where the wires hook up to not just this wire goes here and that one goes here, thanks

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Thanks for checking out the video

[@deankay4434]

Voltage is the electrical potential for electrons to flow. In a 12.8 volt battery, it has 6 cells with lead oxide and lead sulfide on opposite plates. One had an abundant of electrons and the other was a deficiency and caused electrons to flow from negative to positive. Amperage is the intensity of electrons to move or pressure. It is measured in Amps. Resistance is the opposition for voltage to flow so small wire, loose connection or corrosion cussed this, measure in ohms. The amp meter uses a measured shunt inside that carry’s 90% of the load and is wired between the alternator or generator to the fuse box supply. Like a volt meter, it simple shows how much current is flowing and which direction, plus it’s wired in series just at one wrong end. The volt meter is in series as well, but from the alternator to the volt meter to ground. Many old cars / trucks with amp meters had inline fuses on the engine side of the firewall. One was located between the generator and the other one the fuse box side. They won’t burn up simply because the used fuses in the harness and many tractors, cars and trucks produced 30, 35, 40 up to 50 amps. Remember the alternator runs everything on this unit plus 20% more to re-charge that battery. Think back! How many had electrical fires when nobody did anything to them while still or running? None! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.

[@teocerda5367]

Thank you for this explanation, was really clear. Now I understand how to work the volt and amps meter.

[@harveymiller6891]

You did not explain yourself and tell everyone what wire where

[@martinbenton742]

If you stay with an amp meter on your tractor, after installing an altinator, don't you need to put on a larger # amp meter than just a 20 amp? Doc

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Yeah this is an old one from the 60 that still has a generator had it laying in the tool box. On the super 88 I have a 30 amp one will should be fine as with the lower rpm of a tractor the alternator shouldn’t be putting out more than that.

[@jandjmca]

Are you saying to Cut and splice (Amp Gage) into the the wire that runs from the battery to the alternator

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Basically that’s how it is drawn that’s why most will do with a volt gauge

[@Hunter14]

Really hoping you can lend me some information on my problem. I got a 4 post solenoid, one is ground . 4 position ignition switch that is believed to be a magneto switch but I made it work and charge on my other tractor and also had a hour meter that I added and it works. My question is on my other tractor I’m using a hour meter but also adding a amp meter and can’t figure it out, also don’t have the motor back in yet just battery and lights so I’m not sure I’d get much of a reading . My switch is labeled clockwise starting with s, a,m,g then the last prong is unmarked . The switch I’m using is part number 527414v91. Any help would be appreciated.

[@rosemcbirney5123]

I have a Lucas amp gauge which is a 30 0 30. I can’t find one here in nz but I can get a 50 0 50 can I still use with the same wiring ?

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

@@rosemcbirney5123 you should be able to it will just look lower as the scaling will be different.

[@harveymiller6891]

I have got a Ford 600 1955 I am trying to put a amp gauge in mind now but cannot figure out where to run two wires to the lugs on the meter

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

For an amp meter you want to run them in line of the charging wire from the alternator static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sww-284a.pdf

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

That’s some basic diagrams that explain it better

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

Anymore, I prefer volt meter.. if you actually pay attention to it, you know if something isn't right. Amp meter can show 0, wether things are working right or wrong. Generator/alternator not charging=0. Lights on, charging =0.. it measures the flow of electricity. Volt meter charging =14. Not charging = 12 or less. When you turn the key on and a volt meter shows 12+, you know the battery has power. Amp meter won't show that. Good video !!!!!

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Yeah I’m gonna run all the 12+ wires from the amp meter stud should show the load differences I haven’t wired the lights up to test this out yet

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop volt meter will show the difference too.. Amp meter is great for finding draws.. especially if you are isolate circuits.

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

True true going to replace all the gauges with Oliver repop ones at some point

[@harley15a]

Good video. Have a question. I have a 52 Chevy that apparently has an amp gauge. I say this because everything I've read say older cars had amp meters + it has continuity across the 2 posts on the gauge. That being said how can I test that the gauge works without the car running? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

You could with the key on turn on the head lights you should see it go negative because of the draw on the battery.

[@harley15a]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop Thats the problem. the car isn't that far along. I'm trying to finish the gauges so I need to somehow simulate the car. Just not sure how to do it. Thanks for the help

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

@@harley15a you could make a simple circuit and wire the amp gauge into it like make a light or something otherwise I would recommend converting to a volt gauge so that way you don’t have the high amperage wires running into the dash. They make volt gauges now that look like the old amp ones that can be installed

[@harley15a]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop Yes that's what I'm trying to do. Even tried hooking up a small charger to simulate the alternator but I must be doing something wrong. Converting was my 1st choice but they don't make one for this car :/ Would it be posable for you to draw something and sent it to me? Thank you so much for the help

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

@@harley15a yes I’ve been thinking of doing a viewer questions video I think I can do something like this

[@d.brownjr.4845]

I have a 50 model 8n ford tractor with the 6 v system. Generator not an alt. I wanna hook up the am meter to it. Would you know how to hook up the 2 wires. I'd also like to get the lights work. Front and back. Any suggestions?

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Is it negative or positive ground? I might do a what’s the deal with video and draw out the diagram

[@d.brownjr.4845]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop pos, ground I've thought seriously about changing it to 12v. But can't bring myself to do it with everything working as good as it does

[@d.brownjr.4845]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop it still orginal. Runs great. It has no wires on it . I have no clue about putting any on. It also has lights but I believe they been cut off by the fan

[@d.brownjr.4845]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop I'd love to get them on. And my plow light in the back. I'd also like to put 2 flashers on the back when I'm on the road.

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Ok let me draw some diagrams out I think I’m gonna do a “so you want some lights” video and have a few different ways to wire lights in give me a few days and I’ll have it out make sure to subscribe to see it come out.

[@TimothyFluegel]

For a 12v system I'm a volts meter guy. And for 6v Amp meter. I've never really thought about it before but, my subconscious just tells me to go get a volts meter whenever I do a 6v to 12v swap. 🤣 🤣

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Yeah I would have a volt meter if I was buying new but if the amp meter works I’m gonna just stay with it out of cheapness and laziness

[@deankay4434]

@Timothy Fluegel >In a 6 volt car/truck you will first notice the wire size is way bigger or almost double. This is fine rather than being too small. If converting to 12 Vdc system, simply run an alternator for 12Vdc. When running, they produce 13.2-14.3 Vdc depending on air temp. Higher for cold, lower for hot. Use a Voltmeter instead of an Amp meter. Amp meters are in series between the supply and load. So they start at the alternator and run to the input side of the fuse block. Volt meters are B+ to ground. Some items like radio would be a concern but power windows, wiper motor or starter can normally be replaced with 12 Vdc items for the same bolt on vehicles. The alternator can be a 12 Vdc Delcotron like a 10SI or 12SI with two terminals. “F” = Field and “S” = Sense or labeled 1 & 2. Get the connector but to supply B+ from key that turns on the voltage regulator, you have to use a current limiting device as 460 ohm resistor wire in-line to Sense or the bigger (Usually #1) because like a dash bulb that had a picture of an battery, that was a 194 bulb shaped like a peanut. When on and hot, it passes 0.25 amp thru it. This limits current to the regulator. “F” Field becomes hot when running as all three stator windings come together. This is used to operated B+ to a relay, fused power to the choke if updated to electric choke. Yes prior to 1958 Fords 6 volt, others like Chrysler and GM had switched to 12 Vdc. DK. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.

[@tuffy16]

So if a guy hooks up a voltmetre like a ampmetre what happens ? A melt down of the voltmetre? Thank you great vid I in fact didnt think there was a difference duhh So I have been trying to wire a volt gauge like a ampmetre...got a brand new voltmetre in my hand right now but ...

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Yep it will let the smoke out wire it “around” a circuit think of it like this a volt gauge is checked with putting one end to power one to ground. An amp meter would be running a wire from your positive battery side then the other to the rest of the system.

[@tuffy16]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop Thats what I did ! 2 Days to find the wiring diagram Took most of the long weekend to check wiring And a week to figure out that a big "A" on wiring diagram stands for AMP (I wondered what it was) ...fuuuck.. THANKS TO YOU I HAVE UNDERSTANDING !

[@tuffy16]

Oh and I kinda made the voltmeter work for my welder I ran a jumper cable between the + and - lol but i think I cooked the battery

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

@@tuffy16 well thanks for watching hope it helps and what is the project that the volt meter is going on?

[@tuffy16]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop A lincoln classic 3 gas driven arc welder

[@francoisbadenhorst5791]

Thx for this

[@TimothyFluegel]

I seen the guys commenting 1st week i was 1st this time. But I was on here already . But I'm going to finish watching in the morning so I kinda cheated 😆

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Hahaha I’m always trying to beat them

[@patrickroach7289]

Good video

[@Ironhead72]

i like the volt meter the best

[@outboardfixer]

JESUS...

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

Second 👍

[@Hunter14]

Really hoping you can lend me some information on my problem. I got a 4 post solenoid, one is ground . 4 position ignition switch that is believed to be a magneto switch but I made it work and charge on my other tractor and also had a hour meter that I added and it works. My question is on my other tractor I’m using a hour meter but also adding a amp meter and can’t figure it out, also don’t have the motor back in yet just battery and lights so I’m not sure I’d get much of a reading . My switch is labeled clockwise starting with s, a,m,g then the last prong is unmarked . The switch I’m using is part number 527414v91. Any help would be appreciated.

[@BIBSTERSrepairshop]

Let me do some looking I’m working on a viewer questions video so I’ll try and get to this what tractor is it on?

[@Hunter14]

@@BIBSTERSrepairshop Massey Ferguson 1650 garden tractor. This is the switch it says replaces the original straight from the dealer but may be a magneto switch which makes it difficult to figure out. I did figure it out though just the amp meter or a volt meter seems to give me problems.