Volvo 850 Build Part 3 - Pistons + Rods

[@Bigbd88]

Probably the best KZbin video of a white block being built

[@graystephens8996]

Hey, i heard Rolling Motors had your block re-sleeved!!! i know those guys well. Your build is awesome, 800-1000HP is nuts but sick. love the detail in the videos

[@carlosvilla4672]

I wanna get my 850 to like 400hp; You’re insane!! I hope your brick is still going strong 💪🏻

[@magnusm-jensen3710]

You are a legend thx for the videos

[@childisheliou864]

Where are the pistons and rods from?

[@fransleeuwe5429]

dayum,, u know what u doing.. thumbs up from Germany

[@SimplyVolvo]

Thanks!

[@dodogot5814]

love your videos. they are really informative and fun to watch

[@SimplyVolvo]

Glad to hear!

[@laf8675309]

Do the rod bearings have to be oriented a certain way??? As in does the Sputter lettering have to be on a certain side?

[@ballievogel5385]

Hi what would a ring gap be for 2,4na. Taking motor out in January. Got cams cut sitting to one side. Going to ballance crank and knife edge. hopefully find forged rods. Then try make it dual vvt as i have the single at moment. Then just port an polish head. Any recommendations from your side. Love watching these over an over.

[@cbusuttil]

Hey! impressive build there! by any chance do you know how much HP can the stock Pistons of the B5234T3 year 2001 withstand reliably? planning to do a mild build say 380 - 400hp at the flywheel. I know the rods are a weakpoint so i will be throwing a set of rods and plan on keeping the stock OE 81mm pistons. thank you and keep it up!

[@SimplyVolvo]

400hp is fine on stock rods. 600hp on stock pistons + forged rods.

[@cbusuttil]

@@SimplyVolvo Thanks for your answer! keep up the good work!

[@arturrusica921]

Hi Can you tell me please what brand off con rods you have and how much horsepower they can support Thanks

[@100pyatt]

They look like KT4 rods

[@turbovolvos40]

I'm using the king xp rod bearings. The Volvo diesel bearings are glyco sputter bearings, but you pay so much more for the Volvo blue box. BTW, home many cc is the dome on your pistons? My RN head 10.5:1 pistons have a 3.2cc dome. Overall really nice work, I love the details.

[@SimplyVolvo]

The diesel bearings are sputtered but I don't think they are glyco, they look significantly different. They have a black coating on the upper and a shiny on the lower. But maybe just different style glyco? +5.5cc on the dome.

[@SHAWNPAULCARLSON]

It's October 2020. My #1 connection rod went very loose. The bearing must have shattered during driving. It's a high mileage volvo at 330k+km, and I took it to 120km/h on a major hwy. Power died like 5 minutes later. High pitched squeal from cylinder. $800 towing fee back home from hope to Vancouver BC. I'm working on it right now as I type this out. Just needed to know the size of socke for the connection rod bolts.

[@SkillCap]

10mm 12 point

[@miket4196]

Very good work! You give me valuable information about my own build(i have a s40 t4). You will help me if you tell me the brands for rods,bearings, pistons and from where we buy them(some links). Continue the excellent work and thank you for your experience ...

[@TenAfterTen]

What power levels are you aiming with T4?

[@24vp44]

Did a machine shop balance your crank, rods, and pistons before you assembled them?

[@SimplyVolvo]

yes

[@tomthompson7400]

clicking a torque wrench twice makes no difference what so ever ,, but ive still done it too, for forty years.

[@SimplyVolvo]

I've had my fair share of bolts that still took a tiny smidge of torque after the first click so I will continue to click multiple times. Waste of time is not any concern when working with engines that cost this much.

[@tomthompson7400]

then you need a new torque wrench , simples. if the applied torque is tuning the bolt as the wrench clicks the first tim , the stiction has been over come already , to stop and start again , the wrench should click before the bolt moves at all, basic engineering and physics , if the bolt moves something basic is wrong . Theres no arguing the point its basics. Ive been building engines for forty years or more , i still do exactly the same as you do , knowing its wrong , but its habit. ill also bet if you run your bolts up with a t bar instead of a rattly gun , you would use a lot less heli coils too. I like your videos and find them very well made with interesting content, Im not out to piss up your wall , just observations .

[@OnShouldersOfGiants]

What were your bearing clearances when you installed them or did you not check? I'm replacing bearings in a in a V70XC and VIDA has no information on what the clearances should be.

[@SimplyVolvo]

Of course I checked them. .0025 main and .0025 rod. For a stock engine .0018-.0020 crank and rod.

[@turbovolvos40]

Do you know what that cast in flanged boss is with three bolt holes on the intake side of the block at the top near the cylinder 5 end?

[@SimplyVolvo]

This block 2006, is a pre-RNC casting. So its some type of breather or filter used on the p1s.

[@turbovolvos40]

@@SimplyVolvo That's interesting. I have both an '04 R block, and an '06 XC90 2.5T engine, and they both have that thing cast into the block, but unused in both. I'm also building my '06 block. I feel like the '06 XC90 was not probably not abused, and it only had 108k, I will use the '04 block for spare parts.

[@沈冠均-z9j]

@@SimplyVolvo good job

[@isacekstrand8479]

Do you remember what clearence you are running on the rod bearings?

[@SimplyVolvo]

.0025" for both rod and main. A little looser than I like because I had to polish the crank. I usually aim for .002" crank/rod.

[@turbovolvos40]

Another question. Do your rods have a 23 or 21mm pin bore? Mine are Verdi 147mm with a 21mm pin bore.

[@turbovolvos40]

Maybe you can send a link for those rods? They look like a good rod, maybe for a future build.

[@SimplyVolvo]

@@turbovolvos40 21mm. They're just cxracing rods, you can look them up on google.

[@patrickmadden6340]

SimplyVolvo I just found these for soooooo cheap on eBay 159! Thx!

[@greganddk]

Love your videos, have a build 855R my self... But please see into do some sound level balancering! Your commentary are really low, music high... But other than that keep up 💪👍

[@z_855turboR]

Very nice and detailed are you planning to ratchet strap engine to the subframe to take all that power?:) Sorry if I missed it, but seriously, what engine mounts are you going to use? Asking about the two main hydraulic ones.

[@SimplyVolvo]

The stock hydrualic motor mounts are very strong. However I will be upgrading the side mount to a solid mount and the transmission mount to solid. I will show this in a later video.

[@z_855turboR]

I'm curious about your setup, looking forward to it

[@SimplyVolvo]

@@z_855turboR most of it is the same (except for the motor of course) as my videos from last year, but yeah ill be explaining / showing more of it in the coming videos.

[@z_855turboR]

@@SimplyVolvo Well, they are strong, but I find or feel that with poly mounts all around combined with stock hydro mounts there's still plenty of movement of the engine, getting on and releasing throttle. Maybe is just me. Was thinking of upgrading hydros to poly, but I'm scared that interior would fall apart:) Because it's kind of my daily car

[@Topsiekku]

Tämä vaatii kyllä jo oktaaneja reilusti kun nämä yhdistää turbon kanssa.

[@oleefakowski9582]

Volvo for sell? :)

[@poldpoldecki7171]

Nice job, byt sound balance is killing me. You talk very quietly and all of a sudden a MASSIVE wave of music forces me to rush for the volume adjusters.

[@gregvanderveen7777]

FCP stocks the rod bearings; www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-rod-bearing-glyco-30777466