Volvo No Blower...and No Heat??

[@for2utube]

The blower motor issue affected almost all of us Acura Vigor owners. The commutator develops a dead spot. You can bump your hand against the hvac box and get it spinning again, but eventually that trick stops working. I think it's a 20 hr book job to r&r the blower motor, but it took me (shadetree) 40 hrs; I wanted to replace a weak TXV and renew all the old brittle insulation while I was in there, then I had to go in a 2nd time because of a bad TXV.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

40 hours?!?!?! Holy crap! I thought Hondas are supposed to be mechanic-friendly :0

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics - Seems nothing is these days anymore. :(

[@for2utube]

Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Well, I may play your videos back at 1.5x, but when I work I can only do 0.5x of your speed :)

[@reallyhappenings5597]

Great, glad you're finally doing a P2 platform Volvo, we have two!

[@ColtaineCrows]

Yeah, at least that chassi of Volvo's have pretty bad blower motors. Usually the bearings start squealing before it actually stops working however. Luckily they don't tend to fog up as bad as some other cars. Leaving the climate control unit on auto is a surefire way to wear out the blower prematurely. EDIT: Reaching the heater core is relatively easy on these, just remove the panels on the transmission tunnel on the driver's side. If you're removing the core you'll have to get the steering column out of the way a little bit, but complete removal isn't necessary. Be sure to have new o-rings for the heater core if you plan to take it out since those are prone to leak on these. Also check that the pollen filter is installed correctly as that can impact air flow in strange ways.

[@Cowboy_Ash]

It’s possible the system reduces air speed when in heat mode just like in home AC. In cool mode fan is on high and in heat mode fan is on a reduced speed to avoid causing a draft. New units have variable fan speed depending on set temperature. The shop should have checked for heat after blower replacement.

[@neilmurphy845]

Ya

[@weldingjunkie]

Oh man you just cursed us by saying no snow 😂 I’m waiting for daylight savings to be home free. Thanks for sharing Ivan.

[@graymodeler]

Usually when turned to heat, the air shifts from the upper vents to the floor vents. Maybe that was the decreased flow you noticed.

[@joncooper9966]

Just me, but I like to keep T/S as simple as possible. Check power and ground, if these are ok, hot wire the blower.

[@montefiveforty1]

Exactly cant tell you how many blower motors that didn't work that I have givin a wack to get them working T/S over and move on.

[@kazparzyxzpenualt8111]

Will write elsewhere but you guys encouraged me to do both things and they both seem to work! I'll add that once my control panel became unreliable over and over and hotting things turned out to be more coincidentally effective. I found the plug under the glove compartment and tested the wires to the blower just to learn the hot is always hot. With a spare blower motor I put power on it directly and connected and fused the blue and yellow together and in that configuration the motor turned very gently. Touching the end of the blue eire to the red wire made the fan blower full blast. The yellow wire did nothing connected to the red. (or the black for that matter) Then I put a fuse right into the plug. Bridging the blue and the Red power and with the engine off. I used a very light duty fuse. This makes the fan go full blast even with the engine off. My next problem with the usually dead but sometimes waking up climate control panel is the blending door operation. The last time the panel lit up I remembered to be sure to open all the doors by trying to have the cabin buttons on and the defroster too. This seems to work to get heat into both the cabin and the defroster air flow. It is not perfect. The foot air flow for example seems weak when the defroster is hogging the air flow. But safety and comfort will have to compromise in favor of visibility. So my present worry is if this conscientiously fused bridge blue and red circuit will do anything bad when and if the climate control panel decides to show up again for work? I plan to put a switch in the fused circuit since a test drive made a cold morning drive more tolerable today. The Climate panel remained dark. I don't know what makes it stay dark yet. It does still wake up randomly. But at least when it doesn't I'll be able to see out of the windshield. Would appreciate any advice. Especially if this is a really dumb idea just to get by. Cheers!

[@johnditch6357]

you are right everyone should prep for cold and snow, then maybe it will be a mild winter. I've had the worst trouble with mid/late february storms.

[@Garcansdad]

This reminds me of a female friend of mine. Heater core, blower motor - no problem. She changes those herself. She only owns manual transmission cars. Yes, she watches your channel.

[@richardpflieger2049]

Excellent diagnosis! Way better method than throwing parts at it. Bookmarked this just in case I need it. Thanks lot!

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing repair :-D Making basic stuff intellegent can be a pain, keep it simple. Yes i expected some pulse width modulation. Nice to see you get simple stuff sometimes, it's a break from computer madness lol.

[@cclngthr]

First.. Got the relay installed in the contour. Power is interrupted with key off. Used main headlight/parking light circuit and the key on (yellow wire) circuit for trigger. Works with the alarm fine.

[@MrBo-sg6hu]

If the car is a blend door system , you will notice alot less airflow in the hot position rather than the cold. This is because the blower has to overcome the added airflow resistance of not only going through the evaporator, but the heater core as well. When placed on cold, a damper opens, allowing the air flow to go around the heater core. On a hot water modulated system (such as a 1990 Volvo, the air continuously passes through both the evaporator and heater cores. The airflow stays the same- the temperature is controlled by a thermostatically controlled water valve. (And might I add, no electronics or other non sense, just a cable hooked to a lever🙂)

[@throttlebottle5906]

I assume it won't ramp up the blower speed if the coolant isn't up to or near operating temps, so it doesn't "freeze the people with cold air blowing

[@Pops-wl3iy]

Had the same problem with my 95 ford E150 van , Poured boiling hot water into the out hose of the heater core ,let soak for a few minutes then blew it out with some compressed air . works great now .

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Awesome!

[@CubasAutomotive]

Oh wow.. you haven't gotten much snow either, eh? Figured you would have more than I, being that you are farther North.... Yeah, this has been an EXTREMELY mild winter! I'm not complaining now... but worried about the summer. Will we have an abundance of bugs now?? Lol. Interesting diag. You did the best you could for sure. You're also correct.... 2 different diags.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

I'm waiting for that 2-3' storm to clobber us any day now, lol - usually happens between Feb. & March. Hopefully not ... :)

[@AP9311]

Ivan, very nice two diags! As for blower, that's weird problem! Haha. As for no heat. Common thing. Back flush and do complete coolant flush on the engine too. It will be nice and hot, huh? You could say double bonus footage lol!!! Great job. Thumbs up!!!

[@mktwatcher]

Thank you for your video. At 4:00 minute mark when you're checking the Blue & Yellow Leads one of those is sending the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) Duty Cycle Signal to the Fan Control Module which most people still refer to today as the Fan Motor Resistor. It's actually a Power Transistor Module FETs or MosFets that the low voltage PWM signal rapidly switches often and on to ;the change Average Voltage the Fan Motor Gets and hence its speed. Your scope at the 4:00 mark looks similar to the output of a PWM Signal that has a 50% Duty Cycle with would turn the power transistors on half the time and deliver 6 volt to the fan blower motor for half speed. L'm looking for a reference to the Volvo PWM signal wire color code from the CCM Climate Control Module to the Fan Control Module( or what most people call the motor speed control resistor pack) which it isn't at all except in really old model vehicles. Do you know where I can find reference material on the PWM signal wire colors for Volvos?

[@stephendee7839]

My guess on undocumented functionality: diagnostic wire is to detect appropriate resistance across the blower motor. With open circuilt, the control module refuses to send current to the motor. Good safety protocol from volvo. I think that if you put a test light between the diagnostic line and ground, then you would see a signal on the control wire.

[@MitzvosGolem1]

not cold enough in America . Needs to be in Sweden or Russia to operate.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

😂🤣😂

[@JamesAllen300]

When the shop replaced the blower motor, did they not run the car up to temp checking that it gave out good heat and air flow? That would have been bad customer service if they didn't do it. Customer would have appreciated the feedback.

[@bgregg55]

one of the best channels on yt. man, that diagun is exactly what I need.

[@xerxes456]

The analog signal it must be from the two wires to the blower motor, Lin bus communication is 0-12 volt from what I learned. If a understand this the right way the HVAC module to the Blower motor module is Lin bus communication but the output to the blower motor is analog. Thanks Ivan hope you reach 100 000 sub soon.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Been a great winter so far! I can't complain! If it were 60° warmer out today, then I'd be happy, but it is what it is.😁 That was really strange the way that signal showed up only when the fan was plugged in. Seemed like there was a control problem! That will probably lead so many down a rabbit hole. Hate how even fan circuits are over engineered these days! 😡 Some customers get pissed when they get billed separately for 2 different problems on the same system. I've had customers start asking a million questions when that happens. Like, when you're doing a front brake job and you discover their brakes were actually fine, but the hub was ready to fall out of the bearing! That was misdiagnosed by them, based on their request for a front brake job, because the car "shook" every time they hit the brakes. Could've been some rotor buildup too, but the wheel flopping around in every direction certainly doesn't help things, lol. I find once I sit and explain everything, they're usually ok, especially when the problem is corrected 100%. I just recently had a '04 or so Grand Prix with no heat. 3.8 engine. Has that crazy belt tensioner with coolant passages! Some GM engineer must have discovered LSD there ... but anyway ... those 2 plastic elbows always crack and leak. I've had 2 of those jobs in the past 2 months or so. This one had so much air in the system, coolant wasn't flowing to the heater core at all. Both lines were cold! A flush helped too - a bunch of stop leak came gushing out of there. New water pump, tensioner and the 2 elbows (metal in the AC Delco replacement). Thing will roast you out now. 👍

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Great video Ivan. Glad your probing the motor produced results, but we did know motor was done. Stay safe, and thanks for posting!

[@MagnumForce51]

Mom's volvo (hers is a 2006 model though I think) car has similar issue. blower motor wouldn't come on but will sometimes start running while she's on the road and hits bumps. I checked the AC control unit (the button/knobs and such). That unit can sometimes have issues too but found it to be operating normally. (leds and such update correctly when operating knobs/buttons). I suspect the motor is having issues like that one since it cuts on when she's on the road after finding it not wanting to turn on while she's parked. Looks like a brushed motor so maybe hers has a dead spot and with enough vibration/bumps on the road it moves it around enough to get it running.

[@wagoosh78]

it would been nice to see temp on return line after back flush on heater core keep the videos coming

[@Garth2011]

Rather amazing that the debris went to the heater core and no place else. Likely best to dig further if customer was interested since that debris came from someplace. Maybe a complete cooling system drain and back flush with inspections for evidence of debris. I have noticed that many HVAC's in vehicles flow less air when the heater control is set to higher settings. I guess that's from directing 100% of the air to the core vs blending ambient air and heater core air. More restriction with the air going through the heater core fins etc. Sounds like there's not a correct blend of coolant and water to prevent corrosion?

[@tb2187]

YES! Bonus Footage!

[@billwasylenko1599]

The air flow is always reduced when you switch from hot to cold. There is always more air flow on cold then there is on hot. Most cars are like that.

[@JoelAutomotiveInaction]

the problem is how you isolate the faulty component when there is module to module communication. hvac controller to blower motor module.when the sytem is working properly you see voltage change activity, but when some thing is not working correctly like your case prior restore functionality of the blower motor the signal was jot there, at that point you are like , is the signal being sent out? or what , is the blower motor pulling down or hanging up .

[@bigdaddymak1439]

Heater core is leaking and dirt and dust are blocking the airflow!

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Thanks for the video! Did you know that BBB Industries no longer provides free wiring diagrams Jan 1 2020 :( .

[@tinkerwest]

I haven't been able to get diagrams from BBB in over two months now, just some minimal TSB'S... :(

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah it sucks! Thank goodness AllData stepped up their game with wiring diagrams!

[@Blazer02LS]

They stopped because of the amount the bandwidth was costing them to keep them up without any incoming money.

[@DIYDaveOK]

Rats!! Hadn't heard this...

[@Airman..]

cardiagn.com/ thank me later

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

I'm chasing a low air flow on a duel temp system on a '00 Grand Cherokee. Driver's side flow is very poor! Not sure what the issue is. Could be a packed in mouse nest!

[@jp9579]

Dan'sMeTube these are known for broken blend door gears. Pull drivers knee bolster and footwell duct its black plastic. Then you can unscrew the blend door actuator/gear i think they are torx 20 two screws. You will likely find broken gear or bad motor tou can confirm by just moving the blend door with your finger with the actuator unscrewed. Very common failure on these!

[@jp9579]

There are tons of videos on youtube on how to do it also

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

@@jp9579 , thanks for the info! I don't think it's a blend door issue. It gets cold and hot on both sides. Just limited flow to the driver's side feet.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

@canuckguy worried , yes, I used a shop vac and sucked a mouse nest out of the driver's side floor vent. Happy to have air flow, glad the nest wasn't very old. It didn't stink!

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

@canuckguy worried , yes, I too live in the country. Resident 🐈 s aren't doing their job! LoL No clue as to where they're getting in! It sat for a few months last summer.

[@randyhughes5160]

When the heater core steppes up and I flush it generally not long before it leaks

[@srnc9740]

Ivan, how hard was to remove the blower? I have a 2011 S80 and is a real pain to remove it, takes hours at first attempt. I didn't do it yet, but it's scary! The heater core got clogged from 'lifetime' coolant recommended by Volvo? Lol

[@herkko61]

Super easy in S60. 15 min.

[@ouch1011]

Can you post some details about your Flir camera? I have a similar looking Flir One but it plugs directly into a phone. The one I have is actually for iOS, but I no longer have an iPhone or any desire to have one, so it's basically useless now unless I can find a way to adapt it to usbc (the iOS to usbc adapters I've found only work for charging)

[@halleffect1]

So the back-flush fixed it. Was the air volume affected? was it still moving less air in the heat position? I'm still perplexed by this.

[@xanderlander8989]

This is why I don't want to buy a modern vehicle. There's no reason a blower motor needs a computer to turn on and off. A switch with resistors has worked for 50+ years.

[@srnc9740]

Blower needs a computer when auto-climate is on or for defrosting and dehumidifying operations which are combined with A/C. Not too many people know how this works, so car companies "help" out!

[@mikepratali5582]

send your micro camera down the vent take a look!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I did off-camera haha

[@dagod4333]

What micro camera ? And where can I buy one

[@mikepratali5582]

@@dagod4333 ebay 5 bucks look for usb borescope

[@CARRJ142]

Another great video.

[@truthserum8326]

I missed the actual repair done on the dc motor, what was done? Also, was the reduced heating airflow standard on that Volo?

[@trezsr]

Speaking of Euro, in general, for BMW, Autel 908PRO or Launch Torque/Throttle (still can't figure out how the Launches are different)? Beyond the basics, which has best manu specifics? How's the Silhouette doing?

[@kevinbarry71]

It has no heat? What do you want, everything?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I'll take heat over A/C any day! Well as long as the windows roll down ;)

[@kazparzyxzpenualt8111]

So I have no fan AND no LED indicators lighting up on the climate control for my '01 v70 xc, The tiny thermister (temp sensor) fan twitches is the only thing that twists my noodle around. With the key on it twitches. Stays still with key off. The blower fan quit first. Then the lights. I replaced the climate control panel with a presumed good ebay unit just hoping I would get lucky. . Still no lights and still no fan. You mention a 30 amp fuse. Is there a secret fuse for this big main blower fan? The ones I checked seem fine. Is the twitching thermister fan a clue?

[@THEDRAGONBOOSTER8]

Spot on..

[@roxanneabbott8424]

How cool Ivan, awesome video!

[@bernardaflores1720]

Have you look at the cabin filter very close to the blower???

[@christopherbarone3602]

Great stuff back flush adapter what’s that I use a section of hose and the garden hose works great

[@Ram14250]

Ivan, I usually like your video's but this one is a little overboard. Sorry man! Gotta say. 12v on the blower motor and nothing= blower motor needs replacing. Jon Cooper, you are correct. This is really overkill for a blower motor diag. It's a $200 or more diagnostic for a $30 part.

[@herkko61]

Exactly!

[@staind288]

What would cause the air velocity to reduce on heat and not the cold? Is it programmed to run that way from manufacturer?

[@disarm2k10]

Imho pushing the air too quickly thru the heater core doesn't give it time to get heated. Could be designed like that i wouldn't be surprised. Air is restricted by the heater core, maybe the same thing happen when running the A/C?

[@AndyEffertz]

I have a Volvo S60 2006 and the car never had heat from new! Dealer can’t figure it out. So I find if the car is below 32° in the car to start the blend doors go back and forth full hot to cold when the temperature is turned to full hot! I unplugged them in the hot position in the winter

[@donnierobertson3088]

Great job

[@filipenunes1626]

Awesome thanks man

[@herkko61]

My way: Just bought a new motor, 50 usd. Replacing took 15 minutes. Job done. I think you're doing it in too complicated way here.

[@williamwhitehead8362]

Does it have a cabin filter maybe it's dirty

[@staind288]

I thought that too, but cold side would also have reduced flow

[@SmittySmithsonite]

If that was the case, both lines coming out of the heater core would've been the same temperature, or very close (less than 10°F more than likely).

[@aleskyfinis1025]

Yeah buddy from Aleskyfinis

[@marcswanson7066]

Nice job!

[@henrikloiske8572]

The blower motors on theese Volvo P2 cars go bad..i have changed a few on Volvo S60, S80, S70... And changed a couple of heater cores on Volvos....not a fun job to do....

[@baxrok2.]

That was cool. haha Thanks Ivan!

[@PaulHigginbothamSr]

Ivan that don't make any sense. That the flow of air almost stops on hot and blows like mad on cool and to back flush it would make little difference on air flow. I am thinking it might always blow less through it's radiator so when really hot she does well

[@zulfikaraltiparmak9343]

But how is this now solved i have the same problem with my volvo v50 2006 blower its all replaced. While replacing the fan motor worked fine but now somehow it does not blow the air in to the car. Filled airco and there is cold air but also here the blower does not give the power in to the car.

[@NoWr2Run]

Title say's " NO BLOWER & NO HEAT ? " Someone no check for heat after installing new Blower Motor. Shops fault NOT THE CUSTOMER.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Well, guess two problems at once isn't too likely, but in this case it was lol

[@NoWr2Run]

I'm talking about the shop Ivan was working at, I think a new blower motor was put in ? Ivan ( IN MY EXPERIENCE ) by watching his vids. does use something to fix the holes he pokes in the wires. I'm not putting SIR IVAN down at all & I DON'T KNOW WHAT HE WAS HIRED TO FIX ? I say the shop who hired him should have checked for heat after installing blower motor back in vehicle. The title indicated 2 problems " HEAT & BLOWER MOTOR ".

[@happy543210]

no snow this year......i guess al gore was right!

[@billyr9840]

Nice !

[@Dirtyharry70585]

RockAuto fan motor $90, that control looks like a resistor bank

[@TheCrazy243]

Hey Ivan! Nice video! I found used snap on Varus pro with 19.4 software for $1,890. Is that good deal? Have a great day. Keep making videos!

[@christopherbarone3602]

Great deal if everything works repairing gets pricey

[@kennedy67951]

Wouldn't it have been possible to take blower motor apart and clean, lube and replace contact brushes, instead of buying a new motor? Just asking young man.

[@Ivo--]

Hmm, I wonder if that phone holder would damage the CD player's laser at all.

[@JuanOrtiz-mo8be]

What? Eurogarbage with electrical problems ,no way!!! One thing i have notice is that european Technologies are ahead of all makes and model and later on they introduce this Technologies into their vehicles. Please correct me if am wrong. Thanks Ivan for your videos ,very educational.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hi Juan! Yes Euro cars always have the fanciest technology. Double-edged sword...nice when it works, but a pain and $$$ when it breaks haha

[@danielkarlsson608]

Too bad people dont service and clean/wash their cars enough. Coolant should be changed every two years.

[@billwasylenko1599]

2 years is right but only on an older car. Newer cars with hoat coolant 5 years is no problem. The new Chrysler’s with the purple coolant say 10 years! Says it right on the bottle. I have a 15 focus. I’m about to change the thermostat and coolant on that. On these newer cars I always buy the coolant right from the dealer. It might be a few dollars more but it’s better to put the correct coolant in the car. They are all different colors nowadays.

[@danielkarlsson608]

@@billwasylenko1599 the older Volvos always used green or blue coolant and should be replaced every 2 years. But almost no one does.

[@shaneprescott432]

Ivan what kind of signal comes from the head unit. Is it a pulse command ?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Analog...I showed it on the scope! :)

[@shaneprescott432]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics thank you . I must have missed it . Did coolant tubes on a 02 BMW today out doors . Well I started it around four 30° . I'm still cold hehehehe . Gotta finish tomorrow supposed to be 18° . Fun fun 🙂

[@gonzgarr1592]

iVAN NICE VIDIO I GUESS NO MORE WIRING DIAGRAMS ON BBB INDUSTRIES I LOVE THOSE FREE DIAGRAMS I FIRST SEEN THEM WHEN YOU USED THEM YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPEN ?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I saw that too! That's a shame! Free info is getting locked down lol

[@1atech]

no heat= dead varmant?

[@aleskyfinis1025]

You got right from Aleskyfinis

[@heingysen9875]

I would have started with testing the blower motor FIRST!! AND check the heater /AC operation after that.BEFORE releasing the car.

[@throttlebottle5906]

just run a duct in from around the turbo :))

[@srnc9740]

Russian style!LOL

[@throttlebottle5906]

@@srnc9740 LMAO, you got it!!!!!!

[@justinhayward5027]

#When you like a video before you watch it

[@dgoldman2846]

a lot of work to find out a bad blower/resistor :P

[@mikenonameneeded3485]

OMG I thought it flatlined!!! Lol

[@martinarrieta248]

What a the name of your scanner

[@hjara1970]

Pierce wires wow 😲

[@migzauto5094]

Link of the ir camera thing??

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

PHAD AMAZON STORE!

[@779069]

Why not just power probe the blower motor to see if it runs?

[@mechniack]

All that electronic junk they put in modern cars, i prefer the zaz a coil a set of points, and that's it . Your super smart Ivan but how can you stand it.99% problems could be avoided with better designed electronic, and much better connectors, and wireing..

[@corbettknowles9942]

U are probably picking you up Boise off blower motor It sound like a bunny and rolling around in it. But I can't be for sure. Cuz video distorts the sound quality but that's probably the noise you're picking up on your scope

[@boomer9900]

They burned out the blower motor because it was on high all the time.

[@sargetester99]

Cabin air filter

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It was pretty clean...and air flow was fine in the cold setting :)

[@sargetester99]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I assume that in cold settings the recirculation is active and in heat it is not.

[@aleskyfinis1025]

Yeah just to just get the mojo as well so it’s not come back from Aleskyfinis

[@willemstreutgers1154]

2007 must be a Ford

[@vettepicking]

Go fix tavarishs lambo convertible top!.. i name dropped you on his video. Do a collaboration vid......**

[@davidnull5590]

Curiosity Question: Do you know the meaning of the word " tavarish"? tovarishch??

[@vettepicking]

@@davidnull5590 dont care really

[@jamespn]

Here’s your problem lady, you have a 2007 Volvo. The best of Trollhattan and Dearborn.

[@Charles_Mulberry_7977]

Not first!!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

But definitely not last! :D

[@michaelfontana5292]

too much fluff more nuts and bolts, most of us DIYers don't have those diagnostic tools.

[@stephenarling1667]

Inventing ways to do the same thing with more primitive tools makes the "fluff" more interesting than the wrenching everybody already knows.

[@jeremyanthony9300]

Volvo = junk Ivan.

[@Honeypot-x9s]

i beg to differ with my 270,000 mile volvo thats never had a single major issue my most major issue was a belt failure for water pump and alternator.. given how much american "junk" he fixing he only repaired a couple volvos (same with SMA and many other repair channels and shops) i think its fair to say they hold up well, hell im on the original suspension and bearings and bushings all around and not a squeak or a rattle. i been considering bringing on of my volvos around to him since i also live in PA for some work but struggling to give him anything interesting to work on with my volvos :/ for him to chase in a video for funzies

[@MitzvosGolem1]

345k on mine...no issues

[@MitzvosGolem1]

@@Honeypot-x9s watch "Volvo road rally racing, Sweden". Strongest cars ever made period.. Guy near me in NY has world record 3 million miles Volvo .

[@ec8107]

Ivan gets paid to fix customers cars, not insult them.

[@lustfulvengance]

Correction: Volvo BECAME junk when Ford owned them and fucked over every vehicle they made! Volvo's are amazing vehicles, incredibly safe and reliable just not the ones Ford screwed over!