Parts Cannon FAIL! (Mazda Poor Idle - Runs RICH P0172)

This 2012 Mazda 3 SkyActiv came in with a complaint of poor idle and low power. The parts cannon had been shot once, and missed the mark.
The customer wants a 100% GUARANTEE that it will be fixed right this time.
Enjoy!
Ivan
PHAD Amazon Store:
www.amazon.com/shop/pinehollo...

[@kevinbyrne4538]

Our hero triumphs again. Knowledgeable + smart + persistent = success

[@kevinbyrne4538]

@Joe Langel -- The variety of ways that an engine can fail, never cease to amaze me.

[@ronberry5316]

When you first pulled up the data, the mass airflow showed 4.4 gm/s with key on engine off. Thought to myself that unless the wind was blowing REALLY hard through the intake tube, that ain't right. Great job as usual. Great tip on the fuse pull reset.

[@thomastorres4125]

Noticed that too

[@throttlebottle5906]

there's a portal to outer space inside that engine lol

[@michaelgleason4791]

Came here to say this.

[@nbrowser]

Yeah when I saw that too I said "There's yer problem!" Datastream is so helpful on modern systems...much better than just a code thrown at you.

[@bishopcullen1819]

instaBlaster.

[@richardwheeler7954]

I was hoping you would open up the sensor and you didn't disappoint me.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

:D

[@alabalanutnbolt]

In the UK that engine is never seen in that model 3 which we call the BL from its chassis number letters. It didn’t appear until the new shape BM model. The Word from the Mazda guys is the Ford connection is no longer active and the engine and diagnostics are all Mazda hence the no memory reset like a Ford . The only trouble with that engine in our stealership is with Diesel engines.nice to see a fault diagnosis done well.

[@scientist100]

our Stealership...

[@ECOENERGI1]

Hi Ivan, your analytical process is great to watch and it has helped me understand CMP, CKP, TDC, spark correlation. You are smart, your family must be so proud of you. Thanks for sharing these videos

[@NamesAA]

I knew it was MAF as soon as I saw the code. Common on them, and the KAM is very frustrating on those. I love seeing +25ST -25LT and knowing I made the right call.

[@rmr5740]

You had me worried there Ivan . . . until I saw the hacksaw. Out of curiosity, I looked up the part on RA and the mass sensor is around $65 for Denso and Delphi. Much better than the stealership for probably the same part.

[@Mach141]

Keep in mind he cant be waiting for shipping, and return shipping if he gets a bad part. He was hired to fix the car, not save money on parts.

[@n9wox]

@@Mach141 1:18 "Affordable fixes are welcome"

[@kv2280]

@@n9wox A quick diagnosis and a quality repair is an affordable fix in my opinion. Parts canon and cheap parts is usually a money pit nightmare. Fix it right once, and move on.

[@jdtractorman7445]

At 7:38, the MAF is reading 4.20 grams per second and bouncing around with the engine off.

[@Jpilgrim30]

Sometimes OEM parts are less expensive at the premium brand dealership. I have a regular customer with a hopped up 2003 Cobra and the Motorcraft fuel rail pressure sensor costs almost $200. Land Rover has the exact same part for $75. Same number on the part just in a Land Rover box. His aftermarket fuel pump setup and high boost would blow the aftermarket fuel pressure regulators up the first time he would go full throttle. I taught him a lesson on buying aftermarket junk vs OEM.

[@Ilovetittiesandbeer]

I have an Infiniti and my cam sensors from the Infiniti dealership we’re $110 each. From Nissan, the exact same part was $68.

[@Jpilgrim30]

On these cars with the small charcoal filter inside the air box it’s good practice to look and be sure it’s not broken and sending small pieces of charcoal in the engine and mass airflow sensor. Had one in the shop a couple of weeks ago that killed the mass airflow. Little filter was plastic welded to the box and was a non serviceable item. It had tiny charcoal pellets falling out everywhere and had left a black powdery residue all over the mass airflow sensor.

[@nickmalone3143]

Why put charcoal there?

[@kv2280]

@@nickmalone3143 When the engine catches fire, you can have a BBQ.

[@nickmalone3143]

@@kv2280 ...nothing like a good steak to lift your spirits

[@Okie-Tom]

Great work Ivan. Glad you went the extra mile to clear all the long term trims.

[@kellyspeppers]

Was thinking wonder how the MAF is made, presto we get the Bonus and the answer.

[@andrewziegler2608]

Great bonus footage. That’s why I subscribed to you. You try and figure out why things are the way they are. Like when you took apart the Nissan rogue CVT transmission. Yeah we all know now they’re not that great but you actually showed all of us what and why it broke. Great video, keep up the good work.

[@bostedtap8399]

Great diagnosis, having the knowledge and expertise to use high end equipment is paramount here!. Is there such a thing as a "PID" cannon🤔, ref other tech guy's? Great vlog Ivan, thanks for sharing.

[@stv357]

Good job Ivan correct dig and part replaced no guessing involved

[@justinhayward5027]

Good one as usual! U and Eric have taught me a lot over the past few years. Keith too when he posts ;) keep em coming

[@uzaiyaro]

Must be awesome when the customer gives you actual real information. I try to be that guy, as well. I generally do my own work, but for something like the AC, which my car is currently having issues with, I need to find someone to check it out, here's my information: I don't believe the system is low on charge. It works awesome for the first hour and a half to two hours, and then it gradually stops working. The compressor is still commanded on and is still running, and never has it been commanded off due to low charge, as far as I can tell. I believe the thermal expansion valve is failing and flooding the evap with refrigerant, which may be causing it to freeze. It does leave a decent puddle once sat for a while, but it's done that for a long time, so it's hard to tell if it's frozen, or just backed up from foreign debris in the outlet pipe. That's about all the information I have, and I may have somewhere to look first. I try not to be the customer that's like 'air con doesn't work, fix it', and gets in the courtesy car so they can go have their hair done. I try not to be that guy. Please do let me know how I'm doing and where I can improve to be a better customer for the mechanic when I *do* need to see one.

[@mikechiodetti6737]

Good Diag and fix! I agree with you regarding the AFR and 02 sensors not being on the same page! Those two sensors, the MAF and MAP sensors, along with Fuel Pressure AND fuel volume would help to eliminate variables by showing how well the entire system is functioning! What would be helpful, to me anyway, would be to put the sensors to one side, occupying about 1/4 of the right or left side of the screen which would allow you to further customize other parameters you might want to see in the rest of the screen, or using your scope for further testing. Just a thought. There's more to the idea, not enough space here to describe it.

[@jamesbruno5896]

Nice job Ivan thanks for sharing!

[@sebaso1]

I've replaced many of those mass air flow sensors on those Mazda engines recently! The last one that I repaired read 20 g/s KOEO. Running it would show 30 g/s before immediately stalling. No dtc set...

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Wow that's nuts! Must be an internal circuitry problem

[@morgandude2002]

Great job Ivan. Thanks for the walk through. Appreciate it.

[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you Ivan. Good job. I was hoping it was not a voltage drop issue with the sensor ground. Have a blessed and safe week.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Good point. However the sensor was skewed both directions, meaning overreporting at low air flow, and under reporting at high air flow.

[@fieldsofomagh]

That was one smart move pulling the pcm fuse, will register for future use. Hot film did not respond to cleaner as was not expected. Nice piece of maf surgery with no repairable parts. The maf reading was well out of range and replacing it with a pricey oem substitute was correct procedure. Takes time getting used to figures from the wideband sensors as the old narrow band ones are still etched in my brain .Quick recognition in the early stages of diagnostics, surely reduces down time. Very satisfying video to watch with the majority of possible avenues,covered.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you for the thorough comment, Tom :)

[@10mbc]

I'm pretty sure the car owner is so happy the issue is fixed that he doesn't care about disconnecting the battery and loosing the radio stations stored. At least a car that could also possible be found on our roads :) Nice diagnosis!

[@dougkubash8673]

Great fix and tip for resetting the computer by pulling the fuse! I had a problem with two mass air flow sensors that would drop in value momentarily while accelerating. It wouldn't do it all the time though. One was a Ford Ranger with a 3.0 and the other was a E-250 with a 5.4. The Ranger would die when the MAF would act up.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

What an odd piece of engineering that MAF was! It is a FoMoCo product, so I shouldn't be surprised.😁 That said, you'd think they'd included a "Reset KAM" PID in the computer. That might have taken the engineer another 4 seconds to flash in, so we can't do that now! Costs too much!! 🤣 I still haven't worked on anything with an AFR sensor. Figures its values are totally backwards from the way things have been done for 2 decades or better. Guess too many people figured out how o2 sensors work for their liking! Paul Danner was just mentioning within the last month on his channel, that the 1-g/s-per-liter of engine size formula goes out the window when the engine is 3.0L or smaller. Looks like a slightly higher reading on smaller displacement engines is acceptable, just from the reading you got here. I haven't seen enough vehicles to know that for sure, though. Interesting nonetheless! 👍🍻

[@craiggoodwin9704]

Ivan, dealer didn't get you too bad on this one. Looks like retail parts stores want between 125 to 150. Thanks for Sharing!

[@ralph1bart]

Just for fun, substitute bonus footage for the MAF cleaning segment :-). Good info. Thanks for posting!

[@kerryb2689]

Good idea on checking the oil level for fuel. I don't like the charging voltage at 13.25v, I'd rather see closer to 13.75 especially given the temperature. Every car is different. It seemed to crank a little slow. I hate many newer vehicles being closer to 15v. I think battery life is best around 13.75v while charging, maybe a little higher with AGM batteries. MAF reading was too far off and fuel trim couldn't compensate in this situation and pegged. Good call.

[@throttlebottle5906]

probably due for a battery, if I had to guess the factory one made it until 2017, which means the current aftermarket is at it's three year life window lol

[@SuperJoes70]

Thanks Ivan great video have you done any videos on short term /long term fuel trim thanks Joe

[@gman7949]

Ivan the master technician 👨‍🔧

[@canadatransistor]

Hey Ivan. I think a cool study for an engine like this is a volumetric efficiency test. I watched scanner danner and I did a number of tests with my car and obd2 reader. I think this car would have been an awesome subject to learn and evaluate the results. I would love to get my hands dirty on this car and check it out.

[@awudubannaf8608]

I can't stop watching your videos Absolutely spot on all the time

[@michaelslee4336]

I’m in Australia and had a Ford Telstar 2.5 V6 but of course it’s a Mazda 626. Would always price shop Mazda and Ford dealerships for spares and the difference on some things was crazy. Best thing was that they were (still are) next door to each other. Winner.

[@JackS425]

I like how its a 6 speed manual but the radiator cross member has a remote start sticker on it. Sounds like a good way to have some fun at the neighbors expense!

[@thebigmacd]

I believe with a manual you have to do some sequence with the e-brake and/or clutch to enable remote start.

[@dmdaithim]

Skyactive have stop/start technology. It's called i-eloop.

[@iadr]

@@dmdaithim the two things are separate. Not one in 600 Skyactive cars have i-eloop, and neither has anything to do with remote starters. Sheesh. David- "Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad." Keith D is more or less correct- locally the standard is you park brake on, step out of the car with it running and lock it. Module picks up on that fact, and allows restart (once only, obv). Trouble free system. A good 50+% of cars locally have a remote start.

[@benhajdu4040]

You are the best. You inspire me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Youve made me a MUCH better mechanic!

[@charlesmiller5078]

My MAF for my 2.4 Toyota was around 480 bucks, tried 2 aftermarkets, they lasted around 6 months each, the Toyota Part has now been in there 6 years.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Wow. My 1989 Mazda MPV 2.6 still has the original MAF... And it works great!

[@charlesmiller5078]

How many miles, Im at 265,000. 1995 Tacoma, runs like new.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It's at 250k, and rusting to pieces on my gravel driveway sadly. Still want to do some experiments on the engine before parting with it.

[@r.weaver3769]

I worked with a parts changer who would replace everything, because he was bound to fix it, owners loved the money he made them, but the customers would only return with still broken cars that I would be forced to fix for free.

[@r.weaver3769]

I haven't worked as a tech for 10 years, just on personal cars, I do wood working, guitar and amp repair, and motorcycle repairs, but not for any employers anymore.

[@rrmech11]

Excellent job Motoyam 👍👍

[@mrjsv4935]

Always interesting part of the video is opening the faulty component and see what went wrong with it :) Is it a resistor between the legs outside of the component? Wondering if changing different value resistor would compensate the wrong value of the actual sensor?

[@baxrok2.]

Very nice fix Ivan. Thanks!

[@uzaiyaro]

Heya, I'm only a backyarder, so lol what do I know, but I'm *fairly* sure all O2 sensors don't work properly when cold, that's why open and closed loop control is even a thing, and why they are heated, it's so the engine can attain closed loop control faster. In open loop mode (unless I've got them mixed up? Can never seem to remember which is which), the ECU/PCM/whatever is *not using O2, MAF, or MAP inputs* - it runs a standard fuel strategy. I think ECT may be used as part of that fuel strategy, because they always work reliably, but I don't know, that's a pure guess on my part. It is also worth knowing that the PCM will switch back to a sort of open loop mode (not sure if it runs open loop mode like before, or if there is another mode like WOT mode, someone can fill me in surely?) because the PCM wants to dump as much fuel into the engine as possible, regardless of sensor values. At WOT, the injectors are at 100% duty cycle, they are pushing as much fuel into the engine as they physically, possibly can. This is why, when you look at your accelerator pedal, you'll see a switch on it. That's (probably) the WOT switch, so when that switch closes, the PCM knows that you've matted it, and it will instantly switch fuel strategy to 'flood the fucking thing with fuel and for the love of god do not let it lean out', and at WOT, MAF, MAP, and O2 sensor values are all ignored, the computer doesn't care what those values are, all it's interested in, is jamming as much fuel into the engine as possible. This is why you'll see black smoke, and also smell it, even on new cars with wideband O2, it's a protection thing, the PCM does not want to let the engine lean out under any circumstances, say a sensor has a blip and the PCM thinks that it's running too rich and decides to lean, if you're at WOT, bad things will happen, so the PCM simply ignores the sensors. Getting back on topic (sorry!), the reason the car will idle fine when cold and not idle properly when warm, is because when cold, the PCM is running open loop mode, it's not using inputs from the sensors yet because they need time to warm up. You absolutely can read voltages from them when cold, but the PCM doesn't use them. It waits until ECT gets up to a specified temperature, until it switches into closed loop mode. This is why it's critical that your ECT sensor works properly, because it's the lynchpin that decides when it's time to enter closed loop mode. If this happens too early, the car might not want to run properly, or if it happens too late or not at all, the PCM will be stuck in open loop mode and your fuel economy and emissions will suffer greatly from it. The poor idle will be from a janky sensor somewhere that's not giving correct data to the PCM in closed loop mode, so it runs like shit. I'm sure I'll watch the end of this video and be thoroughly and comprehensively *wrong*, but we'll see.

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing repair ivan, i like the ninja fuse removal for a blank memory start :-D Ooow what a crappy design of sensor :-( Shame about the parts cannon but he did no damage :-)

[@jimthecarguy]

Nice diagnoses and repair Ivan OEM is the way to go a little expensive but you do the job once and it's done

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hi Jim, nice to see you in the comments! How are things going?

[@jimthecarguy]

Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Actually everything going great I see that you have been keeping busy. Your channel is doing very good.

[@danielpindell1267]

Nissan told me there was no cleaning service for the Mass Air Flow sensor and thanks to you I now know why 👍👍

[@jeremyanthony9300]

Super amazing excellent job man. Auto tech/ engineer at work as always.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Jeremy!

On a 2014 Mazda 3 with same looking maf. Start and die complaint. Unplugged maf started right up and seemed good at idle or reving in park. But when you tried to drive it with it unplugged it bucked and drove poorly. New maf fixed it.

[@5Dale65]

Some cars never forget the dtcs and fuel things. Even when you disconnect the battery. I have a small Fiat Seicento from 2004 and it has such an ECU. To reset the fuel trims I had to use a laptop and a special program.

[@markferraro5250]

Thanks Ivan so well done

[@Matbug1812]

KAM reset? Interesting...nice work!

[@Zib187]

FYI, Ford sold it's share in Mazda in 2008 & their partnership of sharing parts ended in 2011 so that 2012 had no Ford parts in it.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hmmm except for the PCM firmware apparently :D

[@DaveSender66]

Nice one Ivan !!

[@sergesimonov1767]

Привет Иван! В практике было наоборот, низкий расход воздуха в MAF.Обнаружил крылышко от насекомого на нагревательном элементе.Делал эксперименты с неисправным аналоговым MAF, подтяжка сигнального вывода через переменный резистор 10 кОМ на массу.Устанавливал нужный расход, временное решение.

[@for2utube]

(Preface: no way a pro mechanic can do this.) There's a Toyota 22204-22010 on EBay for $15.99 the seller claims is compatible with a 2012 Mazda 3. I think if I owned this engine I'd have to give one of those a try.

[@Discretesignals]

I wouldn't put E bay parts on a customer's vehicle, but if it's your own have at it.

[@iadr]

ABS codes could be pointing to something relatively common on the 10-13 3's - and hard to diagnose. ABS module (one with all the hard lines in and out of it) internally byspasses giving a sinking pedal. Feels like a bad master, isn't. At the dealer I work for we run into (no pun) about one case every 10 months. Could be a worse problem in damp areas- brake system faults usually are, though we locally get harsh cold.

[@throttlebottle5906]

I spied "can line" code on the ABS codes.....that makes me wonder and the MAF reading LOL

[@GlycerinZ]

Ivan always figures shit out, good job buddy!

[@AP9311]

That's weird, having a choice for something else. What's up Mazda!!?? Lol. Great diagnosis! Neat trick on pull fuse for keep alive memory!! Great video!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you for the comments as always, Josh!

[@richardgraham65]

The price of those sensors is crazy! Someone is making a fortune. I also noticed (despite all of "advice" from experts, you used electrical contact cleaner on the MAF instead of the 5 times the price MAF sensor cleaner) I use Contact cleaner like yours on my sensor (hot wire type) never had a problem, the can even says "ideal for sensors, leaves no residue" Yet I still see so called experts recommending $30 CRC cleaners as opposed to perfectly good $5 contact cleaner. (They both smell/taste the same)

[@calholli]

If you look down in that hole you can see the element on the MAF... I've cleaned them before and it work ok for awhile.

[@porky7753]

Another great video my friend.

[@SDS-1]

Wallet active technology 🤬🤬🤬

[@iamblaineful]

A ton of newer imports are using that exact same design, the issue being that when they fail they tend to over report. Most cars with that design have a default strategy to use the MAP and air temp. When mine failed in a BMW, it never generated a fault code, just grossly over reported at idle, but my car also has a MAP sensor and can run in default strategy like a speed density car on MAP alone.

[@greg778123]

Wondering if a ultrasonic cleaner with the right solvent would of made it work again Maybe not but would of be a nice fix to try to figure out

[@scientist100]

SMA said that these sensors cannot be cleaned. There is a video where he replaced it after the customer attempted to clean it before. He cut it open and showed where the tiny sensor was.

[@joe2mercs]

Like you if I had paid $200 for a part I would want to disassemble it to recover the gold and diamonds that must be within it to make it cost so much.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

LOL that's an expensive piece of plastic for $200!

[@mikeb7887]

Thanks Ivan, keep the vids coming!!! FYI BBB Ind stopped it's wiring and TSB site as of Jan 31, 2020 Anyone know of another free resource for wiring diags? Mike B Tarrytown

[@billsimpson604]

Just a guess, but that resistor, or whatever it is between those 2 metal prongs, may have gone off spec and ruined the MAF sensor. Someone who knows something about electronic parts might have been able to test it with some sort of meter, and see if it was still working correctly. Of course, some salt water spray may have gotten into the sensor and screwed it up, since salt is highly reactive when heated even a little. Salt water conducts electricity too, so even a tiny film inside that sensor could mess it up.

[@robertshatto2995]

Great catch,,,

[@pk6336158]

Hey, do you think the long term fuel trim is used on cold starts, i know in close loop the o2 will read and the short term will start to adjust but when you start in open loop does the PCM read the long term ?

[@nadeemahmed640]

Good job sir

[@dosiodosev740]

What a patient, great. Thanks

[@benjaminlevi7792]

Good job

[@mrkyawnaing9827]

new experience , grate sniper

[@donnierobertson3088]

Nice job

[@josephwash109]

It's somewhat hard to tell on camera, but that little part on the outside of the MAF looks like a diode. If it is a diode, I'm curious as to what its purpose is. Maybe it is somehow used to create a frequency reading the ECM translates to a MAF reading?

[@THEDRAGONBOOSTER8]

Well done..

[@nigelclark7360]

Good stuff

[@tankabbot22]

Ivan, I think that's what the alien ships use for there propulsion systems. Roswell crash was due to a dirty hot wire. At least that's what I heard.😆

[@additudeobx]

In a way... you already knew the ratio sensor was replaced.... so without that prior knowledge... according to codes... that was the most likely service part. #2, question. Do you typically add an additional parts charge for your parts costs? I know some mechanics add 50% for time to get part, transaction fee, sales tax, etc. Different parts of the country do it differently. Out west, typically don't charge parts fee, but in the East they do.

[@anthonysukys586]

A $10,000 Snap on Verus and it cannot reset the KAM? common Snap on. I would get that Verus and throw it at the Snap dude ;)

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Not Snap-On's fault...it's Mazda's fault!

[@attilaelekes5534]

Good job.

[@raymondjones7489]

Love it!!👍👍😎

[@qwarko3658]

Hi Ivan, do you remember what was the MAF reading at idle at 550 rpm?.. I'm trying to find out the reason for elevated fuel trim on the same engine. Around +10-11% at idle and +15-16% at 2000 rpm. I'm having a MAF value changing between 1.15-1.5 at idle. Does this seem ok to you? Thanks!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

If you look at the footage it looks like at a warm idle it was 2.0 to 2.5g/sec. This is a 2.0L engine.

[@DarrelllCampbelll]

You can absolutely clean that maf sensor with maf cleaner or 99$ alcohol. Just make sure to let it dry for like 20 mi s or used canned air to blow out the residual cleaner

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

And then you'll have to buy a new one anyways :)

[@themechanic6117]

Classic sniper rifle👍

[@josholson5015]

The engineer(s) that designed that chip needs to be smacked upside the head.

[@yaseenhashim8538]

thanks excellent relly nice way that you show the follower message easy it reach ya good way

[@Asto508]

Well, actually it was clear from the readings that the sensor is broken. If a hot wire maf sensor is dirty, it shows too low airflow since the dirt makes it harder for the wire to be cooled by air (carbon is a really bad conductor), but since the sensor showed too high airflow by a seemingly constant offset, it could only be that the sensor has gone bad.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Actually a dirty wire MAF will read too HIGH at low air flow, but too LOW at high air flow. (WHY?) Have cleaned many and brought them back to life. Unfortunately this was not a hot-wire MAF :)

[@Asto508]

Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Well, I may be wrong on that specific maf in the vid. At first glance, it looked like a hot wire type. These maf sensors work by heatening the "hot wire" up to a fixed temperature (e.g. 100 degress C) and trying to maintain that temperature while varying air flow (more throttle, higher airflow, more cooling of the wire). The more the wire is cooled by air, the lower the resistance of the wire, thus more current flows through the wire. This current is used to measure the actual air flow. If the wire is dirty, it is cooled less by the air ( under-reporting) and takes longer to get up to temperature again although airflow has dropped already (over-reporting). The result is just sluggish reporting of actual airflow. Usually there is also the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) that is measured alongside the maf and both values are used to determine the fuel trim. If the maf is dirty, the values don't add up properly and the system goes bogus, especially in high rpm situations on the highway.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@Asto508 yup. I cut the old MAF apart at the end of the video... Did you see that part?

[@Asto508]

Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yes, I did, that’s why I thought it’s a hot wire sensor. What type is it actually?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hot film

[@heyitsdrew]

80 bucks on Amazon. I'm sure it's only 80 because the dealership wants 200, if the dealer wanted 100 the price online aftermarket would be like 30 I guarantee that. they base their prices on what the dealer is charging, not based on a little more than their cost.

[@johnturner8829]

Ivan. How would you feel about getting a few stickers made for some of us fans? Is that an option?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Absolutely! Working on Stickers and clothing right now; should be available by the end of the month if all goes to plan :)

[@sargetester99]

Omg, that saw though...lol ...look at the saw....lol...haha

[@dwaynechaulk7387]

can you reset the memory on my 2018, 2.0L, Ford Escape, I can't get the L/100km down pass 11.6L/100km. At the stealership they said I wouldn't have no problem getting 7-8L/100km, I have tried everything like going the speed limit and slow starts and easy braking, just wondering if there is a fix for this. Every 6months the vehicle is in for its oil change and inspection.

[@throttlebottle5906]

ford 1980's had to pull fuses or battery cable, ford 2012 still have to pull fuses/battery cable........ I wonder if the 2020 models are the same still lol

[@heyitsdrew]

what the difference between using that and mass air flow cleaner?

[@flyingdude0010]

At 7:52 you can see the MAF is reporting 4.2 grams with the engine off.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Good eye! I saw that when reviewing the footage lol

[@jamesrossmotors]

I have seen false readings like this before that are so bad that there is a reading of 2 to 3 GPS with just the ignition on. It would have been nice to have seen that. Difinitive without even starting the engine. I think also that Mazda have there own operating system that is not Ford and has a reset all learn values function. I could be wrong?

[@d1bergman]

What is the nature of that "chip" or film? The part soldered to the outside looks like a diode not a resistor. Would it have made sense to try to check if that was bad?

[@GraditelMacedonia]

Is it possible to clean that MAF with ultrasound bath and solution for that?

[@lenniemuse4431]

Kinda suspected the mass air looking at the data but look at the inability to clean the hot wire because it’s buried in a cavity was that of any added value other than the creation of a non serviceable part I would have liked u to scope it’s output but excellent mechanics/ tech intuition

[@throttlebottle5906]

cover one end/holes, spray the tube full of cleaner cover the other end and "shake shake shake, shake shake shake, shake your sensor" :))

[@Discretesignals]

Cleaning won't repair an over reporting sensor

[@adamtrombino106]

Hi Ivan. Great vid! Did you know that BBB Industries has shut down their free wiring diagrams and TSB option for their site? Bad for DIY's...

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah I heard. That sucks!! Was good while it lasted...

[@mdotguy]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Ivan do you know of a viable alternative?