Volvo XC70 Frame Straightening at Home, Using Trees

I wasn't sure if this was possible, although others have suggested it is. It worked fine, so I wanted to post the procedure for others.
We have almost $7,000 in this Volvo XC70, starting with the $5,000 initial cost, then the $1,400 for the rebuilt transmission I put in last year, the exhaust, brake rotors and pads, tires, and more. I could not see abandoning all that time and money, so I wanted to give this a shot.
Having a body shop straighten the frame, and rebuild this was out of the question, as it would cost more than the car is worth. But for under $800, I was able to do a reasonable job of rebuilding it, and at home, on my schedule. And also, $250 of that is tools that I can either resell, or use for other fun stuff.

[@redwhitentrue]

I'm planning on doing this. Problem is I only have one tree. So, I planted one today 20 more years and I'll be ready!

[@TheJoeman11]

+redwhitentrue hahaha..I have one tree too.

[@wilkesjournal]

But why wait? Just make sure if you're using local utility poles, to be sure and do the work late at night when no one is watching!

[@redwhitentrue]

wilkesjournal lol

[@MayneeOG]

redwhitentrue hahaha

[@MayneeOG]

redwhitentrue 19 more years man. Time will fly by haha.

[@kit6041]

I went to school for autobody and learned a little about pulling. Looks like you did a really good job but I would recommend using something else for your measurement other than the hood because it can be moved around. If you ever plan on doing this again you should use a tape measure or a stick that you put a mark on or something and make an x from a bolt on the shock towers to a bolt that is on both sides of what you're pulling.

[@eastbayartist]

It would be damn near impossible to make it to pre-accident condition with-out a 3D measure computer (forgot the name). The rail should be checked for cracks with a electrochemical crack sensor now since the steel wasn't stress relieved when pulling it. What do you think about my advice Kit. Just trying to help and learn.

[@ulisesroldan2955]

Hard Paint or you could go and measure a non-accident car ( that's the same of course ) and use those to yours

[@proto57]

Thanks, Kit... that is a good point.

[@MahoDoctor]

I used to do that, Told everyone it was repaired at pine tree auto repair

[@yochillll2672]

Thats freaking brilliant

[@Puro4letraspuroMAGA]

😆 🤣 😂

[@georgenettlesjr1466]

LoL

[@zeke112964]

My daughter just did the same to her car (passenger side) .....plan on doing the same thing as soon as my equipment arrives (ordered on ebay for $148 including a 10 ton pull back ram) $ 100 cheaper than Harbor Freight and more powerful....

[@johnferguson7235]

Glad that there were no serious injuries. My daughters have totaled TWO cars so far, so I feel your pain. My 2005 XC 70 just keeps plugging along, 120k miles. Just changed all the fluids and it runs like new. Losing the radiator was no great loss because they rarely last more than ten years anyway. The AC compressors also go on these T5 engines, so if the condenser coil was damaged that is also not a big loss. It's a great opportunity to clean the electronic throttle body and the EGR oil trap. You will never have better access.

[@jacquespoirier9071]

this type of hydralic tool worth every penny invested, this type fo job is generally not complicated and the result is usually rewarding

[@johnbrevard5966]

I love it when it goes as planned.. NICE WORK!!!

[@markhamze154]

We were using trees for many years, but we put straps like seat belt and not chains on the chassis. You don't wanna damage the Chassis

[@proto57]

Great advice, thanks!

[@TheJoeman11]

I applaud innovative thinking + a can-do attitude. that hydraulic ram jack looks great! I ran into the back of a car which stopped suddenly (I should have anticipated this). You've given me inspiration. My damage is limited to the cross pillar and verticals not the sub frame. I should have had insurance but they would've written the car off and it was a cheap runabout kinda car.

[@proto57]

Thanks much, Joeman. Sorry I missed your post for so long.

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Nice job. I had a mini van that a deer did some customizing on. It was pushed in on the radiator support in the center. I got a come a long and pulled the damage out in my dad's garage. I attached the come a long to a 4 x 4 that I put on the other side of the doorway going into the house. It worked real good. TFS

[@kurojin97]

+MostlymoparIH lmao a deer did some customizing on your car?! Did one jump out in front of your moving van? I've almost hit deers standing in the middle of the road a few times, but stopped before I got close to them...

[@mostlymoparih5682]

+kurojin97 Actually the deer hit my dad's van and he was not going to fix it so I bought it from him and fixed it. It had almost 270k on it when we stopped using it.

[@proto57]

+MostlymoparIH Deer are a real problem... I have hit two in my life, taking out the grill and radiator of one car, and having the hood beat in from the hooves of another. And believe it or not, I've been HIT BY two deer, while stopped! One at a light, and another when I slammed to a stop, by he couldn't... he slid up over my trunk, hit the pavement, and ran away. I ride a motorcycle, too... and so far, have been VERY lucky in that department. Luck of the draw I guess...

[@mostlymoparih5682]

+proto57 Around here some people didn't want the hunters shooting the deer. They were not allow to hunt in the state park. Well guess where all the deer would congregate? Yup the state park and Freehold Road cuts through the park sooo, there was an increase in accidents with deer. Got bad enough that they allowed hunters into the park to thin out the herd. Supply and demand. A big supply of deer became available because there was no demand available for them (hunters not allowed in). An example of how it works and proof that it works. TFS

[@TheJoeman11]

+proto57 So deer are kind of like vandals...hooligans?

[@mariop3519]

This is awesome! I did the same with a 01 f150 crew cab that rolled over. Used it on the front and a pillar driver side. Nice job.

[@proto57]

I'm glad this worked for you, Mario. Thanks for the nice comments, too...

[@toyotacamry1239]

this video really helps now i just need to find 2 trees around to pull my accord frame back to place

[@fredobanny8842]

Came out much better than expected and with only 2 trees and some measurements

[@proto57]

Hey Fredo, I'm glad it worked out for you!

[@marlenamarlena8835]

Very nice work and great diy,. People complaining about your idea because either they have no cars or they depend on their moms checks to pay for the repair...

[@proto57]

... or they have an investment in $300,000 in special tools and training, which can only be paid for by relying on the belief that nobody can do this, themselves.

[@dth91]

@@proto57 weird way to put that lol

[@proto57]

@@dth91 I guess that was put clumsily. But basically, the people who tell you "no" are often the ones who charge you do to the things they say are impossible. The same thing happens all the time. One instance was being told, by a marine mechanic, that I would not be able to replace the rotten transom on my boat. Well I did, and it worked for over 10 years just fine, and was still good when I sold my boat. It cost me about $120 to fix, but he wanted $1,800.

[@Dubblesteel]

Thx for the video, someone got up close and personal with my Lasabre, so I'm looking to pull the right side. Stuck it between two trees and made a little headway, being ever so careful. I did see these tools on Harbor Freight's website so I'm going to chk them out. Thx for the vid. For anyone who's looking for this pulling tool, it's under frame repair.

[@fixinggrace]

Nothing wrong with trying to fix up an old car like this, especially when it’s wrecked and probably minimal coverage. One thing to remember is that most shops will do a pull on this to straighten it, and then replace the crumpled parts. This is because the metal will not be as strong after it is pulled back out and may not help protect as well in another crash. Yes I did something very similar to fix my bosses car so I could put a bumper back on it.

[@philia51]

I have to do the exact same thing. I tried some other way but it did not work well. Thank you for this video I just came back from harbor frieght and pruchased the items. Glad I had a 25% discount plus it was on sale. I will try this , but seeing your resolts I belive I will have success also. I imagen you hooked up the other end to the chasis of car next to the wheel. At least that is where I will be hooking mine. Thanks again for the video. Great job.

[@liquidworldvideo]

Nice video, what ever it takes to get the job done, great idea Thanks for sharing.

[@tonybello8163]

You have to hammer the frame straight at the points of where it is bent as you pull. This way it will not go back and it will be a little stronger then if you were not to hammer.

[@proto57]

Great tip, Tony. I didn't know that, thanks.

[@jakubtonykoko5172]

i will do this today on my s60r, but need to pull just about 1/2 inch, thanks for tip ( harbor is 2 miles from garage )

[@calvinfry932]

I plan on doing almost the exact same thing on my car, just wondering where on the car you attached the other chain to to hold it steady while pulling? Thanks

[@toyotacamry1239]

other side of frame but put peace of wood on it to spread force so u dont end up bending it

[@patriciamariemitchel]

@@toyotacamry1239, the other side of frame? I was looking for something more specific, like at least a picture of where you put it?👀🙂

[@toyotacamry1239]

@@patriciamariemitchel like u see where ur bend frame is On the other side there is also a frame facing it

[@markhamze154]

You have to hit the tension dent and creases with a hammer to release the stress or it will bend back!

[@gregh7457]

5 votes thumbs down. Those are the frame shop guys. I'm suprised i see no comments from then telling you that your car is a death trap and that this is rocket science that should only be attempted on THEIR 2 million $ frame machine. And then the tree hugger society threatening you with a lawsuit for abusing those trees.

[@proto57]

+greg hassen Yes! If I get in a time machine and go "forward" a couple of decades, this will probably all be illegal. Who knows... maybe it is now!

[@gregh7457]

+proto57 You did much better than the video of the guy chaining his truck to the tree and slamming it in reverse. Now THAT's tree abuse. Take a look at the "backhoe body repair" video

[@derikhackney7526]

proto57 nice work man.

[@FireEater]

Short and sweet. Thanks from Queens NY.

[@proto57]

+Mike Blake Thanks Mike. Hope it helps someone...

[@cndvd]

Wow, it's fixed that was amazing. Did it !

[@MrDietring]

Heat would have been your best friend in that situation! Still very nice job!!!

[@zeke112964]

Heat softens the metal making it weaker...not your best friend

[@Norden1]

How you gonna heat up all of the front frame? Put the car in a oven?

[@kb25j]

Like Zeke said, it'll take the temper out of the steel. Not a good idea!

[@NDLAP66]

Nice easy fix. May I ask, what part of the car did you use to anchor on the non pull side?

[@DaBuGzLiFe]

Probably the engine subframe.

[@mikem5475]

"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."

[@basketballcoachmike]

i've seen some people hit the metal under tension to release some stress.

[@proto57]

+basketballcoachmike I could see that helping.

[@cvAero]

You're my hero. Nice job.

[@proto57]

Well much thanks!

[@mobiledetail4you]

Nice work! thanks for posting!

[@proto57]

+Tony Harris Thanks for the comment!

[@basharsahawneh854]

I was in the wreck and my hood got pulled back and now I can’t open it do you have any ideas to pull it back

[@oceantrolls7332]

good job dad!

[@proto57]

+oceantrolls73 Thanks!

[@anthonylalonde6987]

How/where did you fix the chain on the passenger side?

[@mikem5475]

"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."

[@chasemcclary8861]

hey man what part of the car did you chain the other side too

[@vincentlabrecque2275]

Quick question: where on the car did you anchor the "restriction" chain (passenger side)?

[@odogg4447]

i have the same question..guess i just have to figure it out

[@JOHNNYFUTS]

Around the exhaust pipe

[@mikem5475]

"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."

[@therealwillie2024]

I have winch. I hope it works the same

[@patriciamariemitchel]

What exactly did you hook the other tree chain to?

[@proto57]

There are two trees, one on each side of the tree. The one to the left is isn't so obvious in the video... but it is the anchor point.

[@patriciamariemitchel]

​@@proto57, thank you so much for answering.🙂 That would be the same as a jack point, right?

[@proto57]

@@patriciamariemitchel I admit I had to look up "jack point", thinking it might be a frame straightening term. But I think you may mean the place on the car that you use to jack the car up with the included jack? If that is what you are referring to, then no, I didn't use this as a support. I think that they would be far too weak, considering the forces needed to pull the frame. The tree itself was the anchor, which the chain on the other side was attached to. Then under the (substantial) subframe on that same side of the car, I stacked either wooden or concrete blocks to make certain the frame remained stable and level while pulling from the other side. It did. It didn't move a bit, and nothing bent. If you do this sort of thing more than once... or, actually, even once it is worth it: One day I went to Home Depot and bought a 12' 4x6 pressure treated beam. I had the guy cut it into 12" lengths. I can't tell you how handy those 12 blocks are, for all sorts of things. They can be stacked... two side by side, next level reversed... and would work here. Not positive I used them here, but they would be great for this.

[@patriciamariemitchel]

@@proto57, I looked up anchor point and it was for seatbelts. I don't want to pull on the wrong part of the frame. It's plain that however you did it worked. I wish you would have shown in the video where you hooked the other chain.👀😶‍🌫️

[@proto57]

@@patriciamariemitchel The left chain is wrapped around the other side of the sub-frame member from where I am pulling. This means that the only forces are on the sub-frame, and nothing is on the Volvo's unibody. The "sub-frame" is that box member that bolts to the uni-body, and supports the engine, transmission, suspension and front bumper. They build them this way so 1) There is adequate strength for the drivetrain and suspension, as the unibody is not strong enough, and 2) so that you can unbolt the subframe to drop and access the engine and transmission. But any pulling cannot be to the Volvo sheet metal uni-body structure. That is weak, and you would tear metal with such a pull. So no, don't anchor to the jack points, nor to the seatbelt mounts, nor to anything on the body of the car. You should only chain your anchor tree to another part of the actual frame or sub-frame, across from where you are pulling it.

[@DanielPerez-ee3wp]

Congratulations

[@rickcarp5453]

i did this with a suzuki xl7 but i just tied it to a nother suv hitch and yanked it like 5 times i put it in 4low and let her rip

[@alexbryant5]

Hi again. did the air bags deploy? if so how did you clear the codes from the srs module

[@bigchris9087]

My friend we don’t call that hit we call that got blasted

[@proto57]

Ha!

[@JJRamirezP]

Good job!!!

[@ulisesroldan2955]

Same thing happened to my 2010 370z but mine was hit on the right and pushed everything to the left about 8 inches. But the thing is that I see where the frame rail connects it broke. So can I just pull it and weld the broken part? Anyone got any ideas thanks

[@MayneeOG]

I recently got into a crash and my framed tilted more to the passenger side. I’ve been looking around trying to see what’s the best method, and so far this one seems to be the best. I was wondering did you remove any parts out of the car like the engine, battery, etc? Anyone that can help me out please comment. I just don’t want to break something trying to fix the problem. Thank you.

[@proto57]

Hi Maynee: I didn't remove anything but the damaged parts, like the grill and bumper... but you ought to use your own judgment on that. I suppose one could screw up their radiator if something caught it on the way back. I didn't take anything off because it looked like nothing would be broken... in my case. And I also figured that since I was pulling back the bent parts in a direction as close to the opposite way the damage happened, that it should not hurt anything on the way back. But like I say, look closely at the path all parts would take, and see what you think. Best of luck... proto.

[@rebwar08]

Thank you for this video

[@chig9357]

good info, thanks

[@kidsrangesucks]

These are the cars where the ad says shit like clean, straight body, no accidents, never seen snow, always garaged, never been off road hahaha

[@proto57]

+kidsrangesucks True! We have to be soooo careful. In fact, this car had a rattle that we could not find, when we test drove it. The seller agreed that "maybe it was the heat shield on the muffler", and so no big deal. It turned out it was the lower coil on the coil spring, which had broken... I missed it. This meant I had to put in a new rear strut and spring. I know he knew... because on examination, I could see where the lower strut had hit a rock, to break it. You can never be too careful...

[@carsrcool7149]

+proto57 good job !

[@insane1899]

I have the same damage on my car and I want to do something similar what did you wrap the chain around on the driver side

[@robertdziuk1431]

??

[@davidconley3610]

👍 nice job!

[@proto57]

Thanks, David, much appreciated.

[@lianicoriano5814]

from what did you tie the car down from the opposite side was it the frame?

[@proto57]

+liani coriano I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent...

[@DanielPerez-ee3wp]

Hi. What's the name of that tool you used to put the frame? My car moved 2in, witch I want to fix at home.

[@proto57]

Hi Daniel: It is the larger hydraulic kit from Harbor Freight... I think the 10 ton kit. That comes with the pump, and pushers, but not the puller. I bought that from them separately. The total cost for kit and puller was about $250. Here is the 10 ton kit: www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-super-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62114.html Here is the puller (pull back ram): www.harborfreight.com/5-ton-pull-back-ram-33611.html Best of luck...

[@jasonsmith3573]

I'm about to do this with a 10 ton pull rod. What size chain should I use as the 4mm one I had snapped a link. I'm thinking 10mm might be the go but want to make sure before I go buy one.

[@proto57]

I'm sorry I would not know off the top of my head... nor do I remember the size of the chain I used... that you see in the video. But probably a google search would get you the pull strength of various chain sizes, so you could make the right choice. Probably anything over 2 or 3 tons strength would do the trick, but I don't want to advise... you have to use your own judgement on that. That being said, I never stand in the "line of fire", lest anything go "south"!

[@briansmith7721]

thanks proto57 i got it sorted. I used an 8mm link size and kept fingers crossed and it worked a treat on a vw Caddy van after it got Tboned in the driver's side door and pushed the bottom hinge in. I wanted to use a 10mm link size but the difference in cost was huge. i've got no idea what stress rating it has but it did the job fine. And yes I stood well out of the way. Cheers from sydney australia.

[@DAngeloDino]

How well did the car drive/ride/brake etc after this repair? Thank you.

[@proto57]

It was really fine. But after the repair, the tires needed to be aligned... because of course the frame was not exactly where it was, and so the car needed a new tire alignment. ... and of course, as good as it looked, it clearly was not perfect. The alignment of the hood and fenders was not exact. I could have spent more time on it, and tweeked it, to get it better... and maybe replaced the fender, which was slightly bent by the impact. Sorry for missing your post for two years!!!!

[@DIYDanCars]

Not bad!

[@DragonflyHustler]

great job!!!

[@proto57]

+Damian young Thanks for the feedback!

[@mikey.180]

Excellent job....I just have one question. Why? It's a 500 dollar car.

[@proto57]

First of all, we had $7,000 in the car already, because it cost $5,000 a couple of years earlier, and I had to replace the transmission with a Volvo rebuilt. That cost $900, plus I installed the $240 custom solenoids to avoid the problem the 2001 2002 Aiswan (sp?) tranny's had. Plus new brakes, tires, bearing, rear strut, and much more. To change cars would not mean $500, but starting over at $5,000 or more, and then, fixing everything again on whatever we got. Second, I like fixing things, and trying new things. I'm a great believer in "Give a man a fish, he eats for a day; teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime". Sure, we can discard things each time they seem monetarily pointless. But then, we have to do it again, and again, and again. Where I am in my life, I can fix so many things, so easily, or for that matter, at all, when others must either dump endless funds into them, or simply not do them. So I have a $300 sailboat on a trailer, which is worth $2,500 minimum, because I learned to weld. I could weld the frame. I have an old cuddy Sea Ray, which I could plane the head by myself, rebuild the outdrive, do the wood work, and re-upholster the interior. Was it worth it, to get a boat worth, maybe $1,500? Maybe not, but it was my time, not money... and when it breaks, I know how to fix it... and cheap. I have friends who gave up on their boats after the last $500 bill, which sometimes came two or three times a year. Thirdly, by trying and posting these ideas... that's fun, too.. others can learn to do this, and maybe do them better, and on projects that are more "worth it", in a monetary sense. As I type this, over a quarter of a million people have viewed it. Maybe there is an antique or classic car out there, that just needs the frame tweeked into position.. or someone with NO money, and a bend car in the yard. Who knows? Now all these people know this is possible to do, with inexpensive tools, right in their yard. Fourth, I hate the modern attitude that "it takes an expert". Well, always have. Since I was a kid of 14, and bought my first car to restore, I've been told all the millions of ways I could not do things. But just by doing to "the guy" with the $$$$$ laser/computer/special tools, he, and only he, would be able to do the thing. We can only blame ourselves for the complex monstrosities, and proprietary systems that can't be fixed "under the shade tree", and so, slowly become slaves to technology. Ever read The Time Machine? Do you want to be a mechanical Eloi? Not me. I came from a time when people fixed things, could fix things, and I work hard to make sure I can be self-reliant, and not assume I have to run to an expert every time some thing goes fongotz. But that is an attitudinal thing, but might help explain my wanting to do these things. You can balance and change tires, you know. Replace a transom, rebuild an automatic... align your car as well as that $80,00 machine, or better than it, in your driveway. You can sew a sail that works well, build a boat in your yard... cut lumber if you want, and cast stuff... you can do so much yourself, if you want to... Is it worth it, monetarily? Sometimes, not always. But that is not the only reason to try.

[@grantoz1257]

proto57 the time it took to reply and hopefully enlighten someone.... Priceless!

[@andrewhigdon8346]

@@proto57 well said. Note my response to another naysayer. Either do, or do not. I prefer to do. Rich people prefer to not do. Anything. But develop carpal tunnel syndrome from writing checks, and hypertension from worrying about how much money their money is making for them.

[@analyzejarman7956]

Where are you and you fix mine?

[@proto57]

Sorry I can't do that. This was an interesting project years ago, to get some more life out of a car we had a few thousand into... not really worth it do do as work. And also, clearly not up to the standards one would expect if they paid for it... Take care...

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Maybe you can attach it to another car?

[@retrox684]

How's it holding up?

[@proto57]

The Volvo worked great for another couple of years, and then we got our daughter a nice Tiguan. The Volvo we donated to one of those "We pick up your cars for free" donation places. It was for parts and scrap, not road use after that. So all in all I think it was worth it. I still have, and often use, the hydraulic ram set. It stands at the back of the closet in its case, and has come in handy many times for other things. Anyway, its an individual choice. If I had not just put a rebuilt Volvo transmission in it, maybe I would have let it go after the accident. In fact one of the donor cars... the one I got the bumper from... was a beauty. The guy had sold the wheels already, and the tranny was shot. I thought about having the whole thing flatbedded to my house and switching everything over... but he wanted too much for the car, and it would have been hundreds to get it home. Then switching everything? I don't know... I think about it sometimes, and wonder if I should have done that instead. But like anything, it's a judgment call made, that you can't look back on accurately, since it was a different time then, with different considerations. Volvos under the bridge as they say. At least I answered the question... yes you can straighten a frame between two trees.

[@grzegorz16100]

How is that puller called?

[@BoogieDownProduction]

+Gregory May come along

[@Tawfiq.]

+Gregory May where can i buy it from

[@grzegorz16100]

tawfiq nasser Wut?!

[@zeke112964]

Not a come along....hydralic pull back ram

[@Angelm622]

250 bucks compared to the thousands they were gonna charge you at a shop

[@proto57]

And I get to keep the tools. I've use this ram set for so many jobs I never would have been able to do otherwise. One job was to straighten the rafters in our old house, and then secure them with collar ties. The ram comes with extensions, so I could get exactly the length I needed. Then it jacked them out no problem, hundreds of pounds of force with a few easy strokes of the lever.

[@josebriseno7833]

sludge hammer time

[@michaelbodine6142]

what's up Shazad?

[@SungazerDNB]

And now the next crash kills her?

[@proto57]

It seems your theory being that once bent, the frame is therefore JUST THAT amount weaker to allow the crumple zone to reach the passenger compartment? In just the exact amount of force to make that difference? And that exact amount of force will happen in just the right way, to this car exactly? It is one of those predictions, which when examined even superficially, is patently absurd.

[@ahmedhami7279]

cherche materellele de dressage carrosseri

[@jerrychacon8814]

Could of used a come-along

[@proto57]

The one I have is only one ton I think. Would that do it? It seemed to me I would need many tons. But perhaps you are correct, and the 20 ton ram is over-kill. Have you done this with a com-along? Will one easily pull a frame like this? Great advice, if you know for sure it will.

[@cndvd]

That looks like bad frame damage. Car won't go straight. Or look like it's driving cocked.

[@proto57]

Thanks, cndvd... but it actually worked just fine. Apparently my fix was enough within tolerances to avoid any crooked paths... Car is long gone now, though... she got another couple of years out of it, then we scrapped it.

[@cndvd]

proto57....That was an impressive fix. I have a Vw Vanagon I have to fix, but no frame damage. Just the back got rear ended. I have no shop, so it will be interesting to see how I try to fix it. I think I should take it to a professional....you available ? :)

[@proto57]

I'm not sure if you are being sarcastic, or not... you can tell, it is obvious, I am no professional. But I don't claim to be... those who want to try this, my method and attempt is here for them to try. If they don't like it, they can have someone else pull it for them... but I won't. Good luck!

[@cndvd]

Oh no not at all, not being sarcastic. When I first saw your video, I was like...he's doing some crazy shit, with your chains and trees an all that. But I was so surprised what you did worked , it looked good. And I use to work on aircraft, now just cars. but mainly minor stuff. Some drunk guy hit my parked Vw Van on the street, so the back of my Vw van needs to be pulled out. Not sure how I can do it. The guys insurance is low balling me, I won't have enough to take it to someone to fix, so looks like I have to figure out how to do it myself. But yes, I was joking in hiring you...since you are not close to me. I was really applauding your great job on that Volvo, when "asking" to hire you.

[@proto57]

OIC then! Well best of luck with the fix...

[@wandalllither2452]

Vewwlvo)))) people still buying it...

[@proto57]

Hi Nicky! Say what? If you mean buying Volvo's... nice cars, but not like the ones up to the end of the 240 line. Different design and marketing philosophy. I loved my 240's... and the 140, and the 120 station wagon, far more than anything they have offered since. Simplicity, reliability... But I don't think I'd buy any of the newer models... this one didn't impress me all that much. Overly complicated, beyond any advantage, and making it trouble prone and finicky. Like I said, the opposite of what they used to be...

[@QUIZARATAFWID]

Remind me to never ever ride in this car.

[@NRP1641]

Good way do more damage to your car. Not safe, and only way to measure is 3 dimensional. Would not put my kid back in that.

[@rochelleloveandrian]

True..Length width and height..his risking his daughter's life

[@anthonyrodriguez8482]

It's not like the car is gonna fall apart and stop fuctioning now just crash protection is lowered but who cares don't crash and it's an old car anyways so again who cares

[@proto57]

That is ridiculous, and I also take offense to the insinuation I would take such a chance. First of all, as I said below, to someone else, "It seems your theory being that once bent, the frame is therefore JUST THAT amount weaker to allow the crumple zone to reach the passenger compartment? In just the exact amount of force to make that difference? And that exact amount of force will happen in just the right way, to this car exactly?" But on top of that, following your "logic", even if the crumple zone is measurably weaker, or if measurable, lowered by any practical amount, it means that: 1) Anyone putting their kid in any car with a crumple zone weaker than my post-fix job is putting them at risk. Wouldn't that be about 30% of all cars out there? What car do you let you kids drive? I see lots of them in small crap that would keep me awake at night. 2) Anyone who ever "puts their kid" back in any car that has had a frame straightened, is also, by your logic, being careless. Because although I may not have had the accuracy of a shop machine, the basic method of slowly pulling cold steel is not different, and would not necessarily result in any weaker a car than any professionally pulled car. Like I said to the other guy, and repeat to you two, it is the sort of thing that sort of sounds sort of logical, but on quick examination is really inane.

[@odogg4447]

hey good job on the video fuck that guy. i just had one question where did you attach the anchor chain on the passenger side

[@justwhatido]

Im in the same boat... I put a lot of money into the engine of my truck that was just in an accident and don't see abandoning it either. Im going to have to rebuild it myself. Insurance wanted just to send it to the junkyard. But i said nope ill just do it myself.

[@eastbayartist]

There may had been less pulls by hitting the Rail you're straightening with a hammer. The technique is called steel stress-relieve. Mainly you hit the steel around the area that's damaged to let the atoms of the steel re-shape and not crack between those atoms.

[@michaelbodine6142]

pull in the wrong directn OR bend too far, the ATOMS won't return to orig shape without heat or friction, bend but DO NOT break. use REAL steel and real Patience, I used rivets , the bus was a TAD too dirty;

[@wingding6758]

WOW! You gave me a great idea as Im in the same situation after buying some insurance vehicles!

[@minitobe8525]

hi and thanks for the vid...how did you tie the other end to counter the pull force? did you use the subframe/k frame?

[@mikem5475]

"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."

[@edwinmendija8087]

I am presently working on my daughters car as well. I live on a rural island so it cost a lot to have things shipped here. I am instead using a “come along” to pull the front frame and a floor jack to push up the headlight brackets. I wish I had the correct tools available.... Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.

[@proto57]

Sorry I missed your nice comments for two years! How did your project work out for you?

[@carsrcool7149]

nice vid ... thanks for posting ! ...

[@ryancurrysr8736]

That's a job well done. I learned something. Thanks

[@proto57]

Thanks, Ryan!

[@paulflores1189]

I did it the same way you done it and it worked perfect

[@Person-jy4sc]

Good job bro. I’m going to work on my car.

[@ednja]

What did you fasten the chain to on the passenger side?

[@AR-mb3id]

Thanks for sharing. So glad you decided to record this major achievement. About to tackle a similar project.

[@proto57]

Thanks, and best of luck!

[@nickaxe771]

Real nice job.....just goes to show.

[@ryantoomey611]

What happened at 2:58 you can hear something snap and then you see liquid running down the fender.

[@DashboardJesus999]

Looks pretty wet out there. I reckon the shaking of the vehicle made some small water pool to run off an edge onto that fender lining

[@proto57]

Yeah I heard that. But everything seemed to work fine... it was probably just two things sliding past each other, or like that. Dashboard is right, though, it was wet that day... so there was water on everything.

[@meTimetraveler]

I have to do this for my nephew's 2006 dodge Stratus. HFT had the hydraulic shop kit on sale for 98 green backs and I had a 25 per-cent off coupon so I got the pull back ram for 28 green backs.

[@proto57]

Very cool, and best of luck!

[@robertdziuk1431]

Man I wish I had two trees!

[@australiantruckspotting8883]

Nice job !!

[@AfonyaP]

What did you anchor to on the passenger side? Thanks!

[@proto57]

The other side of the frame is chained to the other tree. It is resting on blocks to stabilize it.

[@AfonyaP]

@proto57 the chain just looks like its going straight through the wheel. I have a car with damage, but I'm not able to find an anchor point on the passenger side.

[@davidblew3503]

To pull a frame use a chain fall sideways to a tree

[@alphonsejuniorniggins4194]

Hey great vid sir. What is the other chain tied on to? Frame as well or axle? Your response will be highly appreciated. Thanks

[@mikem5475]

"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."

[@Poochie43124312]

Damn Now I have to plant another tree.

[@daquilema2011]

Thanks for sharing it, nice video and good job

[@owboky102050]

What part of the car did you attach the chain to on the passenger side?

[@mikem5475]

"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."

[@YenCrew]

I bought a Honda Accord for $600. I'm not sure it even has a bent frame, thought if it does. It shouldn't be a bad bend. I'm a student & don't make much money so if I have to do this I will 😁

[@victorrobinson7008]

Port a power !

[@treydogg77]

Why didn’t you get in the car and back up, have somebody watch for ya. It’s all wheel drive. A couple of good angle jerks and she would’ve straightened up.

[@proto57]

It is true that jerking a car will might a frame to some extent, but there are a few reasons why that would not have made sense in this case: 1) Doing so would really hurt the drivetrain of the vechicle. The engine/transmission/differentials/axles are not made to handle those sort of forces, 2) To pull a frame back into position needs a careful consideration of the direction the impact came from, and this often involves pulls at various angles. Here, to the left of the car, and down. There would be no way to accurately replicate this by jerking the car back with its driveline, 3) the forces needed are far greater than the car's momentum, at the end of a chain, could possibly achieve. The many tons of force I carefully applied with this hydraulic pump and ram, I think, would far outstrip a few feet of driving the vehicle. What you say may make sense in some cases, where thinner members, in line with the direction the vehicle travels, might make sense. But I think one would always want to take their time and slowly pull back with these tools, in a planned and accurate way.

[@balloney2175]

I went to a body shop closest one to where I live and they are charging me at least 800$s. When I saw this video, I may try it b/c I have the exactly the same problem. BTW I heard some noise on index 2:57.

[@octaviomadrid5214]

Would a 4 Ton work? For the same situation.

[@proto57]

I'm really not sure, Octavio. It was because I was not sure, that I went for the larger unit. They are really not that much more expensive, in the scheme of things... so I "hedged my bets" and went for the big one. But if you already have a 4 ton, it couldn't hurt to try.

[@jordonpollock1550]

Had a front end accident with my Speed6 and my left rail is out about an inch. It's parked on the side of the road with a power pole right next to it. Gonna send it with this!

[@DeeKnow]

2:56 that doesn't sound safe lol

[@EvendimataE]

i cut the tree in my yard last year......need to pull the radiator support of my car now and i got nothing to anchor the puller huhuhu