Volvo rear brakes replacement with electronic parking brake. (EPB)

Replacing rear brakes pads and rotors with electronic parking brake (EPB)
First time doing the rear brakes. Car has 54,000km or 33,500 miles.
Volvo Brake pads - 30671574
Volvo Rear vented Rotors with EPB - 31341483
Volvo electronic motor seal/bolts kit - 30881857
Or LR031305 from Land Rover
Cheaper Alternative to Volvo Seal/Bolt kit is:
Bolt: VAG - N01 470 111
Seal: VAG - 4E0 615 137

[@robertdlp2871]

Thank you thank you. Saved $300 in Orlando Fl. No code or errors in 2017 cx90. Good help. Love to hear the baby in the back ground.

[@wilbobagins]

Thank you for your videos. I have a 2009 xc70 and you videos are a great guide for the essential maintenance jobs to keep her healthy

[@niksollitt4506]

I don't know where I would be without your videos. You keep my wife safely moving on the road. Thank you so much.

[@Gammalgubbe01]

Good day Youri, great instruction and superb quality. Today I will change my S80 rear breaks and disks. Piece of cake thanx to you. Much appreciated mate, regards from Volvo country 👊

[@volvosweden]

Hello to Sweden!

[@steveburns4103]

Thank you! I love how you kept everything brushed and clean. I did this today on a Volvo 2011 XC60. I used a hint from the comments and used a small 9V battery with 2 alligator clips to retract the electric parking brake, instead of the disassembly and manual rotation in the video. Squeeze very gently with the c-clamp, run the 9V battery for 5-10 seconds, and repeat until both are fully in and/or gently stall out. This is a minor point. Thanks again for a great video!

[@volvosweden]

Next time I will use the battery method as well. Thx

[@dcapobres]

Isn’t there a service mode in VIDA/DICE that retracts the electric parking brake?

[@sergey541]

@@dcapobres Just put 12 volts on el engine . One position+it gonna brake. Change the wires each other + and it gonna unbrake. 7-12 second are enough. Then just press the piston.

[@johnhoulihan8057]

This is an excellent video and very informative. I have been replacing brake pads for years but never replaced brake pads on a vehicle with EPB before. This video made it so easy. Thank you and best wishes from Ireland.

[@pokerpariah]

Just did the rear brakes on my sister's S60 using this video as a guide. Everything went smoothly and works great. Thank you!

[@volvosweden]

Nice!

[@MajorDork70]

So it was the same on the s60? I'm changing brakes on my V60 this weekend so I'm curious :)

[@pokerpariah]

MajorDork70 yes, everything seemed exactly the same. If I didn’t had to jack up the car and take the wheels off the job would’ve only taken five minutes per wheel.

[@ericsommer4075]

These are the best videos for do it yourselfers!

[@MAHGlie]

Replacing the rear pads on my wife's 2008 V70 this weekend. Great tips below about retracting the EPB motor. 9v batt and clip leads. Wow, that's a lot of corrosion under that car. Thanks for the video.

[@Peppermint1]

You can see Volvo had lowered hardware metal quality in post 2010 cars. See how rusty are these after 2-3 years. 2001-2009 model would not rust like this and had great bolts/nuts quality, easy to undo even after 10 years in salt.

[@kisilvan]

Worked like a dream and saved me a good deal of money. Thanks very much.

[@volvosweden]

+kisilvan Glad to help my friend.

[@customertestimonials3035]

Awesome video Sir. Thank you so much!! I'm ready to give it a go this weekend.

[@volvosweden]

Easy job. Feel confident

[@chien-shengtsai8626]

Excellent video. I am watching this several times before I tackle my first brake pad and rotor job on my 2015.5 XC70 TC AWD with EPB. Never done brakes before. I have a Left Rear Tone Ring problem which I was not able to solve. It got read as a Wheel Speed Sensor issue at first. I changed the Wheel Speed Sensor with ATE replacement and the code changed to Tone Wheel. I cleaned the tone wheel twice, inspected and found no breaks--shiny and clean--it is not castellated (no teeth) just a steel band. At a loss for what to do, I took it to Volvo Stealer--the dealer said it was the ABS BCM and wanted to charge me $3,000 to replace the module--I think they are trying to rip me off. I don't think it is the BCM--the WSS tries to sense, and I hear the clicking and then it throws a fault and the ABS/ESC light comes on and the CVM and Tire Monitor lights follow. Since my rear brakes need replacement, I decided to change the rear pads and rotors myself rather than pay the dealer the $800 they wanted to do so. Instead of Volvo rotors, I've decided to use Bosch Quiet Cast rotors because in their description, it is explicitly stated that the rotor includes a ABS tone ring. I tried to confirm that with Bosch but the support guy would not confirm it--said other rotors have tone rings too--I asked why is it then listed as a special feature--I don't think he even knows. Anyway, I will use Yuri's video to help change the rear pads and rotor. The video is great, shows exactly what to do. I hope the Bosch Rotors will also solve my ABS tone ring problem--how it will, I don't know at present. I will use my Foxwell 510E Scanner to service the EPB. On the 2015 XC70, supposedly the tone ring cannot be replaced separately and requires an axle replacement. However some persons on Volvo forums said the non-castellated tone wheel on the 2015-2016 XC70's rarely go bad and it is the wheel bearing.

[@chien-shengtsai8626]

One of the Bosch Quiet Cast rotors arrived, the other is ordered but out of stock on Amazon at present. The rotor does not have a tone ring incorporated--as the Bosch support guy said. The Amazon Product description had said: Bosch QuietCast Features: " Homogeneous heat flow Superior heat dissipation Blah, Blah AND: ABS sensor rings included (on required applications): Trouble free ABS/TCS operation" and "OEM style ABS tone ring (on required applications) provides trouble free operation of Antilock Brake and Traction Control systems " And the Bosch Website description said, as Key Feature: "ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) sensor rings: Allows for trouble-free operation of ABS/TCS on ABS/TCS equipped vehicles" So it is confusing. My wishful thinking was that this rotor would solve my ABS Tone Ring problem. 😶 I ordered Volvo Genuine brake pads rather than Bosch.

[@markclark454]

Thank you very much for making this video. It is very informative and helped me change my Volvo brakes without question.

[@amirs5620]

Excellent video guide and in HD too! I would add using anti-seize on the hub-disc mating surface prior to installation and lubricate the caliper sliding pins. Using torque wrench to tighten all the bolts (including tyres) could result in more brake feel and performance.

[@volvosweden]

+Amir S thx for the tips...

[@juanadolfopalmabravo3127]

Je voudrais savoir comme,changer la panne à l'huile de ma volvo 2003 s40 moteur 1,9

[@kunalkhanna985]

I agree. I had to whack a wheel off the rotor on a Buick was rusted and fused. North East US is the problem area where salt kills cars w rust. I am also tempted to reuse outer brake pads from his car. They r good as new and their surface looked even

[@markwalster1111]

Great Video, thank you so much. After watching, I had the confidence to tackle the rear brakes on my own XC60. All went like clockwork. Had both sides done in 90 minutes. Saved a fortune on main dealer prices.

[@ropponenjoonas7052]

Thanks for The videos its very nice to watch because so spesific instructions and shows how really the rusty bolts are opened

[@stewartmayer1183]

Showed me what I needed to know to change my xc60 brakes and rotors, thank you!

[@michaelwoodward7488]

Stewart Mayer n

[@davidgold5961]

Old brake discs make excellent weights for things like holding down tarps and other uses. I know one guy that uses them to make lighting that won’t tip over.

[@PK-pv3ns]

Great job and thanks a lot, i followed exactly your video, just To remember to turn off the EPB before to work 😉😉👍👍

[@bibigolla]

Excellent video as are all your services. Very clear and informative.

[@519Predrag]

Excellent video. I enjoy all of your videos related to Volvo XC70.

[@kristenberg6194]

Thank you! This made the job very easy!

[@sergey541]

To avoid the replacement of El engine just put 12 volts on el engine . One position+it gonna brake. Change the wires each other + and it gonna unbrake. 7-12 second are enough. Then just press the piston.

[@makethman007]

just did this yesterday if you have the right tools and have loosened up the bolts you can do both sides in about 40 min the trick on the caliper is to fully wind in the take up screw and then press in the piston we lubricated under the duct covers with silicon spray grease to ease the return of the piston so it doesnt grip and bugger up the rear discs which is a common fault on these cars the front brake is really weird as its needed to split the caliper to change the pads you need a really good torx bit to release the 4 screws and a m7 uncommon size allen key to undo the guide pins

[@BLOCKsignallingUK]

I just replaced my rear pads using the "connect 12V to the motor method". Here is the detail: Rear brake pads - Volvo with EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) Leave handbrake on Jack up and remove rear roadwheel Remove slider bolts (13mm & 15mm spanners) Remove EPB motor plug by puling upwards. This is the most difficult bit. You will need to slide a small screwdriver upwards into the latching mechanism at the rear of the connector. Keep the tip of the screwdriver in contact with the body of the connector (the bit which is part of the motor), whilst sliding it up. The tip of the screwdriver will gently prise away a latch, which is part of the connector on the end of the cable, away from a projection on the body of the connector. Power motor release using a 9V or 12V battery. Drivers side forward most pin negative to release (passenger side is the opposite). The motor runs for about 18seconds if the pads are fully worn out. Pull off carrier, pads and slider shoes Replace shoes (if one is rubber coated, fit this to the upper part of the caliper) Put a small amount of silicone grease on pad parts which touch the slider. Use Sealey tool to retract piston slowly (don’t turn the piston, just push it back slowly). Keep an eye on the master cylinder level to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Put caliper back. Replace slider bolts. Power motor in reverse (reverse the polarity of the wiring) to seat piston (about 3sec). Press brake pedal to seat pads. The worst part is releasing the plug from the EPB. It is probably woth repeating that bit (I broke the first connector before realising this). The part of the connector which is fixed to the motor body has a small projection (like a ski ramp) on the back. The free part of the connector which is on the cable has a clip which rides up the ramp when the connector is pushed home, until clip reaches the end of the ramp and drops drops off the end, so clipping it in place securely. To release it, you need to insert the screwdrive upwards (running it close to the body of the fixed part of the connector). As you do this, it will lift the clip away from the end of the ramp, and so allow you to pull the connector off.

[@volvosweden]

Very valuable comment. I will add this to the video description later. Thank you for sharing with us.

[@michaeleakin4909]

An excellent description of this method.

[@MosesChanhoMoon]

That is Great!!!! This clip explained to replace rear pad attached EPB without scanner

[@RossYoungblood]

It's raining :) like here in Oregon. Thanks! This answered my rotor disassembly question!

[@volvosweden]

you're welcome. glad it helped.

[@chrisbailey4759]

Good video, but a few things I would have done differently. No need to take off the parking brake motors, I use a 10amp 12 volt power supply to wind the plunger back, its faster and easier. I did not see you clean the packing oil from the replacement discs or clean the hub mounting surface and protect the surface with copper slip, I would recommend doing this every time on a disc and pad change. It's good practice to inspect the slide pin rubbers and pins, check the rubbers for tears and cracks and the pins for uneven wear, I always clean off the old grease from the slide surfaces and pins then renew with proper slide pin grease, not copper slip. I always use a torque wrench to re-torque all brake system nuts and bolts on reassembly. A little bit of anti corrosion grease on the mating surfaces of the road wheel and bolts helps next time the wheel is removed, good opportunity to inspect the tyre too. Good luck with your next service and stay safe.

[@volvosweden]

Thx for all great tips. This info is helpful to everyone..

[@niedviet]

How to wind the plunger by using 12v???

[@markhooper9267]

I have seen some comments that disconnecting the plug to do that activates the service light. Is that true?

[@BLOCKsignallingUK]

@@markhooper9267 Not true. To get the plug off the motor, slide a thin screwdriver upwards against the body of the connector to release the clip.

[@markdavidjacob]

I did this job too a short while ago, but didn't want to deal with removing the motor. What we did is disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, then apply negative 12v to the plug on the motor. You have to watch the motor to see what direction the piston is moving. If it's still moving out, then reverse the leads. Once it screws all the way back in (you can hear a different sound if you listen closely), and then you're done. Now you're not having to replace the seal, Torx, etc. which also saves time, $, and trouble, especially if you live in a very remote area like me, with an hour travel time to my nearest Autozone

[@ruiwu6695]

Many thanks, I will try to change rear brakes with 100& confidence😀👍

[@Дмитрий-з4м4л]

Классссс!!! А я думал, что без компа цилиндр не разжать!!👍👍👍

[@josephhutchinson383]

I thought this video was very helpful,it explained every thing step by step very good thank you very much

[@joecraven2034]

Finally did this job. Video was very helpful but some comments talk about using an external battery to activate the parking brake so you can compress the piston. The problem with that method is you have to know which way the motor is turning. If you turn too much in the wrong direction it is very difficult to fix. One side worked well for me; the other I must have crossed the wires. Next time I would do it the way the video shows and just remove the motor.

[@MrEopp]

Thanks for sharing the excellent video. Removing the electric parking brake motor assembly seems to be a common DYI practice on many modern cars. However I ended up reversing the electric parking brake using a 9V battery and it worked out very well, so wanted to share that here. I fabbed up two wires with yellow female blade connectors. Then attached the wires to the two flat connectors on the motor. I then set a bit of tension on the piston with the brake piston compressor and held the wires onto the 9V battery. It was easy to tell if the motor was going in the wrong direction, and then just reversed the wires on the battery.

[@chuckmckee2741]

Will this stop the parking brake warning light from having to be reset ?

[@MrEopp]

@@chuckmckee2741 I don't know. I can't recall if the brake warning light was on. I could have replaced the pads before the warning light came on. Either way, you must reverse the electric parking brake one way or another when installing new pads.

[@rickhctep1503]

You really should have cleaned and greased the slider bolts while you were at it, but a good video, thanks.

[@waltersukach4364]

He did 95% of brake job.

[@volvosweden]

Still learning....

[@dcapobres]

How do you get the slider bolts out?

[@rickhctep1503]

@@dcapobres Hi, once the calipers are stripped down you can see the slider bolts one at the top one at the bottom both have rubber bellows around them, just pull them out and clean both bolts and holes out and give the bolts just a smear of grease on the bolts and reassemble, I use a drill bit to screw round and bring all the old grease and rust out of the hole.

[@michaelcolton7743]

I love your videos. Been a volvo S80 owner for 3 weeks now. I did my rear brakes today. I used a 9 volt battery with two wires to reset the parking brake. Saved me from having to remove the electric motor. If the piston starts moving out you just swap the wires around on the 9 volt battery. Made quick work of the job.

[@jacobdeforge831]

Where do you attach the two wires to?

[@markrichardevans5011]

Were does battery go

[@jacobdeforge831]

@@markrichardevans5011 I did it 2 weeks ago. Just detach the harness and there are only 2 prongs. For mine to DETRACT the EPB the positive of the 9v goes on the left prong and the ground goes on the prong to the right

[@YOUZICHEN35]

Good idea!

[@Mark__A]

Did exactly the same thing yesterday.

[@kevinenticott2206]

I like the way your assistant is making their voice heard !😃

[@peterclamp2943]

that wasn't his assistant,that was his boss.

[@screwsnutsandbolts]

Excellent videos and channel. Subscribed ! 👍🏻

[@wallpaper4237]

The video quality is glorious.

[@JanEdelmann]

Really well done.

[@ovidiuandrei1702]

Bra jobbat . Hjälpte mig.

[@thatbmwguy948]

Nice video! A small tip the next time you mount new discs: clean your hub very well with a wirebrush. If you don't clean the hub you'll risk the disc is not mounted flat and then the disc wobbles....

[@volvosweden]

+Sailor X good one.thx

[@RichieRich845]

Use the old brake pad between piston and the G-clamp , that way you won't damage anything. also open the bleed screw to let the oil out instead of sending it back to MC. than for sharing.

[@volvosweden]

+Rich X Great tip. Thx

[@tmillner0682]

Wrong, do not open the bleed screw unless you plan on bleeding the brakes

[@seshachary5580]

@@tmillner0682 if we don"t open the bleeder screw and let "dirty"fluid out, it will be pushed in to the system. ?any reason why this should NOT be done. thank you

[@tmillner0682]

@@seshachary5580 if you're willing to bleed the brakes then it won't hurt to do that. But if there is fluid that is "dirty" it is dirty throughout the entire braking system, not just the caliper. So you would need to flush and replace all fluid in that case. Brake fluid brakes down over time, reducing its boiling point, that's why most manufacturers recommend replacing every few years. But if you're just doing brakes no need to purge any fluid

[@RichieRich845]

@@volvosweden Hi, another tip if I may, 10:21 after brushing the rust off apply some lube then put the metal clips and apply some lube to the clips as you did. This way the rust under the metal clips won't push the clips up and cause uneven wear.

[@eduardobaduel6309]

Excellent video man, thanks a lot!

[@nolosabes1427]

You should paint the calipers with anticorrosive paint to prevent the rust because this car is with few years and change the brake hose rust or paint the metal parts of the brake hose for the same problem.nice video and congratulations from Spain,my english is bad,sorry.

[@samsonevickis]

You did an excellent job with the amount of rust. I am a BMW tech, but had a volvo, wanted to familiarize myself with the EPB on Volvo, great job! Thanks

[@oboyoboy4579]

Thanks for uploading how to do that. But when I change I always clean new discs with breakcleaner 😀

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

Have you figured out that it's easier to open the bleeder screw while your depressing the piston than having to remove fluid from the reservoir yet? It also puts cleaner fluid back into the caliper and gets rid of the old acidic fluid making for a better brake job. Of course the best thing would be a complete flush of the system but very few people would know how to do that or have the correct tools. If you were doing a front break job just think of all that oil acidic fluid being pushed back up onto the ABS system. I wouldn't want to have to replace it. Just a thought of preventative wisdom.

[@surfing5628]

*Love the Quality, how did I miss this Channel!!!*

[@Panzerbeast]

I just don't have the time to do it myself but nice to see how its done.

[@angelopontello6542]

Followed to a T.. perfect was able to do the job in great time.. ty

[@moodberry]

I was in the middle of the rear brakes, thinking they would be as easy as the fronts, but no! So I came here and you presented it exactly like I needed. Thank you!!!

[@volvosweden]

Glad the video helped!

[@techtonicsystems]

Many thanks, as usual, a very useful Video

[@somedsailingteam8869]

You are an excellent teacher for us!!! I have a D5 185 2009 and yours videos are perfect!!! You can propose a video of turbo actuator because a lot of people have the same problems and they think its necessary to replace all the turbo 🤦‍♂️... its a mistake because in 80% of time its only actuator!! Thanks for all!!!

[@DeejayP999]

Nice vid. Same brakes (apart from the EPB) as my crappy old Ford Mondeo!

[@chiphill156]

Great video! I've owned 7 Volvos over the past 37 years. I love working on them when I can. I appreciate your videos!

[@hugoburton5222]

7! That's a lot!

[@Mr1outboard]

This is actually a excellent video. I followed you all the way through. Finished my job in half the time. LOVE the child saying mama several times. You sir are a great asset.

[@TheMisakmickey]

Hello, did you put the electronic handbrake into service mode in VIDA before replacing or did you only follow steps from video? Because I got info that hand brake must be in service mode before replacing and I am trying to find the way how to do it without VIDA. Thank you for help. Greetings Michal.

[@volvosweden]

I did not have Vida at that moment. You can use 12 V battery to unwind the motors

[@wilbydoughboy2959]

Many thanks for a very informative video. Your video gave me the confidence to tackle the replacement of my xc60 rear brake pads and discs. The problem I came across was I could not undo one of the 30 torx head bolts holding the motor on, so I used a 12 volt adapter to wind the motor back, this worked well and overcame a big problem and proved a simple and effective way. I did not have a large enough G clamp to compress the piston back but I found that the use a motorcycle tyre lever and piece of timber, together with some strong levering enabled the piston to fully retract although I did bolt the caliper on to one fixing to give a better leverage. I did have some difficulty getting good access to the 15mm bolts due to the electric motor being in position but I used a knuckle joint to overcome this. My xc60 had covered 41,000 miles and one side had heavier worn pads than the other although both discs had worn to their minimum thickness. Again Many Thanks.

[@Christian.Greven]

could you explain how you connected stuff to wind the motor back? Planning on doing this job tomorrow

[@The_Equalizer23]

Great video! I just replaced the rears rotors and pads. I followed the instructions but the brake pedal almost travels to the floor when the car is in motion 🤷🏾‍♂️.

[@volvosweden]

Bleed the system.

[@iamgerry86]

Thank you for this video. I'm helping a friend with their XC60 and I was wondering how to get around the EPB. Thank you for showing us!

[@patricktasch2415]

Thank you for all this Videos. Great!!

[@byubadgerprofessor]

Don't follow this video - as is noted below, it is way easier/safer if you wind back the electronic parking brake with a 9V battery rather than removing it (and risking damaging it). See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqqYZXeBh62fd9E I followed that procedure and it was really easy to push back the piston. I was able to do it with light pressure from a C-clamp. I actually used a 12V, 1 amp power supply (old cell charger) to wind back the piston.

[@MTL_Rider]

I saw if you have the Vida system that you can put the rear brakes in service mode. This would bypass removing the motor. When complete you need to remember to remove the service mode in Vida

[@seshachary5580]

very educative. thank you. the best video that I have encountered. one question. when the brake piston is pushed in is it good idea to open the bleeder and let the "dirty" brake fliud out rather than pushing it in to the lines . also is it good to use ABS bleed so that fluid in ABS is also out of the unit . can one manually bleed the brakes (2 person method) instead of power unit that is used by you. thank you again. awesome service .

[@Antoniostubeio]

Great video well presented and explained...thanks for sharing

[@volvosweden]

+tony bilco Happy to help.

[@AnthonyS80-V8]

Always Torque down the bolts on brakes- especially front! T50 torx is 35nm 15mm bolt is 110nm 13mm bolt is 35nm If not using new bolts apply thread lock as per color on existing Cheers

[@cristiana1373]

Very nice and useful video. Very good editing, info on the parts numbers, image quality... Carry on! You just save me 150 pounds You are the best!=D> =D> =D>

[@malcom59]

You could always buy the tool intended for moving the caliper back into the open position, then neither battery method or removing the motor would be an issue.

[@DarrenRBaker]

A much easier way to retract the piston is by hooking a 12v battery to the two contacts on the parking brake motor in reverse. It will wind itself backwards.

[@volvosweden]

Thx for that tip.

[@knk3220]

My friend and I have tried this method, much easier than dismantle the motor itself

[@microsoft4598]

Can you just not apply EPB and push the piston in?

[@volvosweden]

+Mic Rosoft Nope.

[@patkeenan3758]

Great tip! Worked like a charm.

[@fernandosanchez-th3fe]

nice video, only one advice, don't forget to check, clean and grease the caliper slide pins, because that could be a mayor problem

[@Sloppy7ths]

Excellent video. Thank you, sir!

[@stepowenyt]

Job done. Thanks for the guidance.

[@haleaurelian]

Retracting EPB can also be done by using a 9V battery. I find it safer than disassemble the motor.

[@admiralfloofz658]

You dont have to remove the caliper bracket in order to change the rotor btw ;)

[@daveycmusic]

do you remove the electric motor just because you use the g clamp? Will the piston retract if I were to use a normal piston rewind tool?

[@volvosweden]

You have to remove the motor or use 12V battery to unwind the piston

[@gingerbreadman732]

Another way to compress the piston is to let one person keep engaging and disengaging the parking brake. A second person compress the piston the same time the parking brake is disengaged.

[@croc1608]

Dat feeling when you realize that you could have driven 15` km more before changing :D

[@bobbobby5724]

Fantastic job. From London

[@volvosweden]

+Bob Bobby Thx.

[@liesbethvelter5055]

Great video, I use the 12volt method to rewind,and that worked just fine.Also, I didnt remove the bracket which holds the caliper,the disc can be removed without dissasembling this bracket, give it a try.

[@volvosweden]

Wow. Thx for the tipnonbthe bracket. I will try next time.

[@janusz8690]

Hello, Very good job!

[@stevehoulihan726]

Brilliant video. Again. First video I saw of this procedure used software to put the parking brake into service mode, and advised against taking the motor off. Where did the instructions come from? Was that the paper you took out of the box with the pads in?

[@volvosweden]

Just use 12 v to jump the connector pins to unwind the piston. Much easier and safer than taking the motor off. Done this way on another XC70.

[@ristotuomiluoma3322]

Good tips i used 9V Battery metod all went well. Thank you. (Finland viewer). V70 2011.

[@marcuslindsay91]

Just completed same job on my XC60. Really helpful video. Thanks.

[@fredericmaulny1832]

Great Video, thanks, I started to replace the brake pads and got lost when trying to push the brake piston back. Good explanation for the electronic parking brakes.

[@haralambie01]

Thanks a lot , this worked perfectly for me. The dealer wanted 600 bucks and we did it ourselves for $50 .

[@pgreenx]

Does anyone know a good manual or website for torque specs and other general info? (I use a bently book for my bmw) Thanks

[@steveburns4103]

For WHEEL torque specs, the discount tire guys have a quick guide that I use. www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/wheel-torque

[@berniel3358]

Did you have to remove the motor? You know you can use a 9 v battery and a pair of wires to return the motor back to in position, just so you know. Thank you

[@wilbydoughboy2959]

Many thanks for a very informative video.

[@doogie64]

I finished my rears in record time! Thanks for your video, it really helped.

[@volvosweden]

+Doogie G Excellent.

[@marktaylor6264]

Great help! Thanks!

[@giannistheofilou8357]

Μπράβο φίλε μου πολύ ωραίο βίντεο

[@a.t.8297]

You do great job!!!! Why didn't you check that the caliper piston is clean and lubricate it? Especially on the driver's side. Regards from Poland 👍

[@freedhwy]

I was concerned about how the parking brake would be "reset" back to a home position after the entire brake motor mechanism was backed off and new brake pads were put in and the entire assembly was re-installed. You explained it perfectly! Thanks!

[@markwiley2152]

Thanks. Worked for my 2105 XC60. Removed motor and wound it back as you mentioned. Then cycled e-brake three times, no flashing lights on dashboard. All is good.

[@michaelmarrah473]

Great video, thanks. Might depend on the model, but generally do NOT have to remove the main caliper bracket (those two red lock title bolts) to replace rotor. Since there are no lug studs, the rotors easily pivot out from under the piston bracket. At least on my 2014 S60. Saves a TON of time. Same on front - do NOT split the caliper with the 4 Torx bolts - seems to cause more problems than its worth. Remove teh two bolts under the plastic caps, swap pads and rotor and you’re done.

[@sherrygzen]

Michael, I have the same 2014 S60 T5 59k miles. My 2nd Volvo. Had my brake pads & rotors replaced by a mechanic last week & they couldn’t seem to figure out why the brake pedal seems soft, like it goes too low to the floor. Then they replaced my master cylinder which I don’t believe it needed to be. They bled them, then decided to replace the vacuum booster line. Still the same. They had my car for two weeks & I finally decided to take it to a mechanic familiar with European cars. So the new mechanic, He bled them & said the rear brakes have air trapped in the line that after idk how much brake fluid he went thru but told me he thinks the other shop messed up my abs system & added that his computer didn’t read the abs system. Now I have to take it the dealer. After watching these videos though I’m learning a lot about the break system for my car. Fingers crossed I can get them fixed without getting ripped off 🤦‍♀️

[@huntermitchell-yh9fo]

​@@sherrygzen did you ever figure out what it was?

[@sherrygzen]

@@huntermitchell-yh9fo Took it to the dealer that “has a protocol” I was told after two weeks of my car being there, they replaced the master cylinder again & claimed it was not installed properly by the previous mechanic,replaced the booster again (still the same problem) and finally the abs pump they wanted to charge me $3000 just for a new part or $300 for an old beater part from a junk yard. Why didn’t they just replace the abs pump in the beginning? Got me!! $3800 later and an old abs pump seemed to solve the problem but what a rip off. I think it’s important to take a European car to a mechanic that knows European cars. Period

[@TheDIDSBIAK]

Job well done 👏

[@curarecurare]

Спасибо за ваши информативные видео, помогает в обслуживании нашей машинки.

[@jense5771]

Great upload, thanks for sharing! The shop quoted me half a fortune for this job. I followed the exact procedure on my V60 -12 today and got the job done in a jiffy plus saved a bundle!

[@volvosweden]

+Jenzino Swe Nice! Glad to help

[@fredrikandersson2105]

do not forgot and take out the gliding pins for cleaning that is making brake problems, the oke does not slide

[@ИванШереметев-щ3л]

Это только место ржавое или мед краской покрашено ? Давай на русском! .материал.

[@AdamAus85]

Man, do you get a discount on dealer parts or something? I usually find it just as effective to go direct to the companies that make the parts for the manufacturer (and a lot cheaper).

[@hugoburton5222]

Yeah. I just go aftermarket because it's hard to find the manufacture parts in Australia. Cause nothing's made here.

[@iainthomson1047]

Thanks for the video. I am doing mine on my V60 this weekend after having done it a few years ago. Some tips in here I would have found useful back then, but will use now. One point, I didn't see you put copper grease on the back of the pads, why was this. It prevents brake squeal later on.